April 2014 ~ Repair And Fix it

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

How to Remove a Spline Nut on a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

The spline nut, also known as the axle spline nut or axle nut, is located on the threaded end of each front axle shaft. This nut holds the splined end of the axle securely inside the wheel hub. The axle nut is a 34 mm nut that is pinched in order to prevent it from loosening. Because the nut is pinched in the manufacturing process, it is not reusable. There are two types of axle nuts installed on 1999 Aleros, and both are not reusable. The first type is the older style that is black with a sheet metal cage around the nut. The new nut is a silver-colored, standard-size pinch nut. If your vehicle has the old style nut, it must be removed and replaced with the new style nut. If your vehicle has the new style nut, it must be replaced when removed with a new nut of the same style.

Instructions

Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Break the front lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and slide jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and make sure that its secure.

Remove the lug nuts completely, then remove the tire. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal. Attach a 34 mm socket to a T-handle bar and break the axle nut loose while your assistant is holding the brake pedal; this will prevent the wheel and hub from turning while you break the nut loose.

Remove the axle nut the rest of the way using a 1/2-inch ratchet and your 34 mm socket. Throw away the old nut; it cannot be reused.

Thread the new nut onto the spindle by hand, then have an assistant depress the brake pedal once again.

Tighten the nut to 173 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Reinstall the tire and snug the lug nuts with a lug nut wrench.

Lower the Alero back to the ground and torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern to 100 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Can You Pull off Spark Plug Wires While the Engine Is Running

Like most ponderings in automotive repair, the question of removing spark plug wires from a running engine isnt necessarily so much one of "could" as it is of "should." Technically, yes, you can yank the plug wires off of a running engine just as easily as you could one that isnt running, but it may not necessarily prove conducive to you or your cars good health.

Removing a plug wire from a running engine isnt likely to result in catastrophic engine failure, particularly if you put it back on shortly afterward. All spark plugs misfire from time to time, you just dont notice it because its intermittent, random and usually happens so quickly that the cylinders firing again before the engine has a chance to vibrate. So, intentionally creating a misfire by removing the plug wire for a few seconds or even a few minutes isnt likely to destroy anything on most engines.

Most engines have a rubber ring on the front of the crankshaft called a harmonic balancer; on the outer edge of the balancer is a heavy, metal ring. When the explosions in the engines cylinders push down on the pistons, the forces they exert quickly accelerate the crankshaft. When that accelerations over, the crank tries to slow down, resulting in a constant cycle of acceleration and deceleration that manifests as vibration in the crankshaft. The metal ring on the balancer resists these sudden, but tiny, vibrations and keep the crank from tearing itself in two. Over a long enough period of time, a dead cylinder and the resultant heavy vibration will over-work the balancer, causing it to fail. Once that happens, you could be looking at serious damage to the engine.

Your cars catalytic converter works something like a blast furnace to convert toxic gases produced by your engine into more inert forms that wont drown polar bears or grow fish with three eyes. The converter takes advantage of unburned fuel -- which is, itself, a pollutant -- coming from your engine and uses it to fuel the furnace in the converter matrix. More fuel means more heat. Killing the spark in one cylinder will drastically increase the amount of fuel pouring into your exhaust, which will, at some point, cause the converter to overheat and fail. The engines control computer will compensate for this to some extent, but you can count on extra fuel going into the exhaust.

Depending upon the computers control strategy, disconnecting a plug wire and leaving it that way could seriously fry something. When the oxygen sensor detects excess fuel in the exhaust, your cars computer may assume that this represents a net excess of fuel through all the cylinders. It will respond by decreasing the amount of fuel injected to all of the other cylinders in order to get the air/fuel ratio back in line. The resulting lean condition will increase combustion chamber temperature, causing overheating, detonation in the engine and, eventually, complete meltdown. Most computers do have programming provisions to account for a dead cylinder, and wont react this way; but some dont, and theres no way to be sure unless you know exactly how your fuel injection system thinks.

Before pulling the plug wire off of a running engine, bear in mind that your are, in fact, grabbing a live wire with about 40,000 volts worth of electricity coursing through it. Normally, this electricity will pass through the plug wire and race to the spark plug, which acts as a ground. But when you remove that ground, the spark is going to find the next, most convenient ground. If you happen to be touching the body of the car when you pull the wire off, then you become that ground. While electricity normally wouldnt arc through the insulation, even if it is a bit old and damaged, removing the primary ground will make that spark pretty determined to get out whatever way it can. Its not likely to kill you unless you have heart or nervous system problems, since the amperage is very low -- but the sensation is rather, shall we say, "life affirming."

How to Change a Headlight Bulb in a Dodge Neon

The Dodge Neon uses the common 9007 headlight bulb. Eventually, after normal wear and over time, the 9007 headlight bulb will burn out. Replacing burnt out headlight bulbs on any vehicle is very important and may seem like a daunting task to those unfamiliar with auto repair. Replacing the bulb on the Dodge Neon is easy.

Instructions

Turn off the Dodge Neon and open the hood of the vehicle. Put on the clean gloves.

Locate the three upper fascia screws located right above the headlight. Use the screwdriver to remove all three of the screws.

Remove the headlight assembly unit from the vehicle by pulling it away from the Dodge Neon.

Disconnect the electrical connector by unplugging it from the back of the headlight assembly unit.

Remove the retaining ring by twisting it counterclockwise. This will allow access to the bulb. Pull out the old bulb and push the replacement bulb into the headlight assembly.

Reattach the retaining ring and reconnect the electrical connector by plugging it into the back of the headlight unit. Place the headlight assembly unit back into the vehicle and reattach the three screws to lock it into place. Close the hood.

How to Tell If Your Fuel Pump Is Broken?

The fuel pump is an essential component of a vehicle. Fuel is pumped from the fuel tank to the engine. Without a functioning fuel pump, adequate fuel pressure cannot be delivered to the engine. This will cause problems such as hard starting, rough idle, misfiring, hesitation and stalling and can even prevent the car from starting . This may happen at the most inconvenient time. If you suspect that your fuel pump is broken, there are certain tests that you can perform to confirm it.

Instructions

Listen for a humming sound that normally occurs when the key is turned to the "Start" position. Turn the key in the ignition to the "Start" position and listen for a humming sound from the fuel tank. A hum means that the pump is in working condition.

Check if your fuel pump is broken by doing a static fuel test. Turn the key in the ignition to the "on" position. Look at the fuel pressure gauge to detect movements. The fuel pressure should immediately come up and stay steady. If it doesnt, that can indicate that there is a defect in the fuel pump.

Connect a voltage meter to the wires that connect to your fuel pump. Connect the voltage meter to the green wire. The fuel pump wires are located under the vehicle, behind the drivers door. Let someone start the engine while the voltage meter is connected to the wire. A normal reading is between 10 to 11 volts. If there is a zero reading, this usually mean that the fuel pump is bad.

How to Replace an Exhaust Catalytic Converter

The catalytic converter happens to be one of the most expensive parts of a car to fix, which leads many people to try to repair it at home. You have to know your way around cars and exhaust systems, or youre honestly better off taking it to a mechanic. If youre comfortable working on it yourself, there are a few things you should keep in mind.

Instructions

Lift your car. Unfortunately, the catalytic converter sits about midway down the length of your car, so lifting one end or the other will not do. Ramps are your best bet to get you within reach of the parts when working from home. Luckily, this is usually the hardest part of this repair.

Be patient with the bolts, as they are often hard to remove due to size and awkward placement. You may have to drill or saw bolts to remove them. With this in mind, you should pick up new bolts, nuts and seals for your replacement project.

Buy a catalytic converter specific to your car to avoid extra work. A generic part must be welded into the car, while a vehicle-specific model comes pre-welded to the proper pipes for easy bolt-on installation.

Remove the 02 sensor (with an O2 wrench) before unbolting the catalytic converter. Then, you should remove the pipe connecting the sensor to the converter. Depending on your exhaust system, you may have to remove more pipes before you unbolt the converter from the muffler.

Replace the old catalytic converter with a new one. This should be the easy part, as you simply bolt the new part in place.

Reattach the exhaust pipes and 02 sensor, and the basic job is done. Make sure you replace any cracked or rusty pipes while you have the exhaust system apart.

How to Balance Synchronize Motorcycle Carburetors

Many motorcycles have multiple carburetors providing power for the engine. In a multiple carburetor system, one or more carburetors may fall out of adjustment, or synchronization, with the others. This causes the cylinder to receive a different amount of air and fuel than the others and create an imbalance in the engine. Poor power, hesitation and bad fuel economy may result. You can make a mechanical adjustment to ensure all carburetors work at the same time and same rate.

Instructions

Place the motorcycle on the center stand. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until it idles reliably. Do not allow it to reach full operating temperature as this may lead to overheating.

Shut the engine off. Turn off the fuel supply petcock at the gas tank and remove the fuel line at the carburetors. Remove the hold-down bolt at the rear of the gas tank and lift the tank off the motorcycle. On some models, it may be necessary to remove the seat or side covers in order to remove the gas tank and access the carburetors.

Remove the vacuum plugs from the carburetor bodies. Some motorcycles have rubber caps press-fit into vacuum ports; others have screw-in plugs that require adapters that come with a multi-port manometer kit. Select the proper adapters and connect the vacuum lines from the synchronization tool to the ports on the carburetor bodies. On motorcycles with more than two carburetors, match the numbers on the manometer ports to those on the carburetor.

Hang the auxiliary gas tank from the handlebars and connect the hose to the carburetor gas line inlet. Place the portable fan in front of the engine and direct the air flow over the engine to keep it cool. Turn the auxiliary gas tank cut-off valve to the "On" position. Ensure the fuel hose is not touching against an exhaust pipe or the engine.

Start the motorcycle and observe the readings on the synchronization tool. The carburetors must be adjusted if the gauge reads more than 2.4 inches of mercury between any two or more units. Locate the adjusting screws for the carburetors. Some models have the screws located between the carburetor bodies; other models require the removal of a top cover to access the adjusters.

Identify the base carburetor. On any multi-carb system, one carburetor is considered the base piece and is not adjustable. All other carburetors can be adjusted to match the base piece. The base carburetor is normally identified by having the throttle cable and idle speed screw attached to it. Turn the adjusting screws on the other carburetors one at a time until the readings on the synchronizer are within 2.4 inches of each other. Tighten down any lock-nuts, making sure the adjustments do not change.

Repeat the previous step for every carburetor on the motorcycle. Open and close the throttle a few times and recheck the readings. When all readings on all carburetors are within 2.4 inches, tighten all lock-nuts and replace any covers or other devices that were removed to access the adjuster nuts. Set the final idle speed to the manufacturers specifications and shut down the engine.

Remove the auxiliary gas tank and synchronization tool . Remove any adapters and replace the vacuum port plugs or caps on the carburetors. Replace the gas tank, side covers or any other component that you removed.

Types of Carburetor Chokes

Over the years, various models of carburetor chokes have been developed in order to facilitate different engine conventionalities such as differing engine designs, varying load requirements and air/fuel intake varieties. In essence, the varieties of carburetors have been specifically designed to provide an assortment of drafting amounts, a multitude of barrels and varying venturi and flow rates.

The variation in draft technology is one way in which carburetor chokes can be classified. Drafting within carburetors can be defined as sucking in or exhaling out air. There are three main types of drafting technologies that can be incorporated into carburetors. These are downdraft, sidedraft and updraft models. The downdraft and updraft technologies work using a method completely opposite to each other. Downdraft allows air to flow through the engine in a downward direction whereas the updraft variety allows air to be transferred through the engine in an upward direction. On the other hand, the sidedraft variety allows air to flow through the engine in a horizontal manner. Sidedraft technology was incorporated into older vehicle models whereas downdraft technology is used in cars these days. However, updraft carburetors are used in machinery such as forklifts.

Carburetor barrels can basically be defined as a hollow cylinder in which air and fuel is mixed by the engine. The basic parts are the throttle plate, air horn and venturi. There are three essential types of carburetor barrel models; one-barrel, two-barrel and four-barrel carburetors. The one barrel model is primarily incorporated into small engines that do not require a lot of power such as a motorcycle. On the other hand, a two-barrel system is used in cars with large engines and comprises two throttle plates and double venturis. A four-barrel model is used with trucks and SUVs because it has the ability to provide a large amount of engine force. Under normal conditions, the engine uses only two of the four barrels. If extra power is required, the other two barrels are employed to mix in more fuel and air.

In accordance with technological breakthrough of todays day and age, car makers have developed an electronic carburetor system that has the ability to provide highly efficient energy by electronically maintaining the levels of air and fuel. The electronic carburetor is used in almost all of the cars being built today and also has the ability to reduce pollution by oxidizing HC and CO as well as reducing the amount of nitrogen oxide expelled into the air. The entire system uses a three-way catalytic converter which maintains the most efficient mixture of air (oxygen) and fuel.

Shift rods are used in cars, trucks and motorcycles that have manual transmissions. A shift rod consists of two eye-bolts that are threaded onto a steel rod. As you change gears, the shift rod engages and disengages the clutch linkage. Shift rods are available in various lengths from auto parts stores, or you can have one cut to a custom length to fit your particular application. A die set may be used to cut threads on a blank or universal shift rod when the original is not available.

Instructions

Place the shift rod in a bench vise and secure it firmly. If the rod is chrome, place a shop towel around the shift rod before you tighten the vise to keep the rod from being scuffed.

Measure the internal threads of the eye-bolts with the thread gauge. The gauge will have a mark on its side to show which size thread will need to be cut.

Select the correct size die and install it in the die wrench. Secure the die by tightening the two screws in the wrench to hold it in place.

Apply cutting fluid to the area that is being threaded. Place the die wrench on top, perpendicular to the shift rod. Turn the wrench clockwise while pushing down. For every full turn, back the wrench off one-half turn to remove burrs. Continue to turn the wrench until you have cut the thread the desired length.

Remove metal shavings and excess cutting oil from the shift rod with a shop towel. If cutting both ends of the shift rod, remove it from the vise and turn it over. Repeat Steps 1 through 4.

How do I Remove the SRS Airbag From a 2002 Dodge

You can remove the SRS airbags from your 2002 Dodge without taking the car to a mechanic. Airbags are considered to be an essential safety element, but there are some people who are worried about rare injuries that can occur from the airbag deploying. Removing the airbags is a fairly easy procedure and only requires a couple of simple tools. Just make sure to always keep your face and body away from the front of the airbag as you remove it to prevent injury to yourself.

Instructions

Raise the front hood of your Dodge and loosen the retaining nuts on the battery cable clamps. Slide the clamps off of the battery terminals one at a time. Wait 30 minutes for the battery charge to drain out.

Consult your owners manual to find the location of the airbag fuses. Then open the fuse panel cover that can be found on the drivers-side dashboard. Remove the fuse puller and use it to remove the airbag fuses.

Remove the screws on the back of the steering column with a screwdriver and caully remove the airbag from the middle of the steering wheel. Cut the wires attached to it using wire cutters. Set the airbag in a safe location away from people and pets.

Open up the glove box and unhook the straps that hold it open. Unscrew the screws holding the glove box in place and pull the entire glove box out of the dashboard. Unbolt the airbag very caully using the socket wrench. Unhook the power cable at the rear of the airbag. Remember to keep your body and face away from the airbag. Slide the airbag out of the compartment.

Put the glove box back in the compartment, screw in the screws and reattach the straps. Close the glove box cover.

Put the airbag fuses back into their proper places within the fuse panel and close up the fuse panel cover. Reconnect the battery cables and tighten the retaining nuts.

How to Clear a Service Engine in an Acura

Your Acura generates and stores fault codes whenever there is a problem with a solenoid, valve or sensor. This will show up on your instrument panel as "Service Engine" or other warning light. Once you have the codes checked and the vehicle serviced by a qualified mechanic, you need to clear the codes. Usually the mechanic can and will do this, but not always. Not only is it annoying to have the light remain on your instrument panel, it is also bad for the vehicles computer, which may not able to keep track of when your next servicing is due. You dont need any special tools to clear the service engine light on your Acura. Its a relatively easy fix.

Instructions

Put the key into the ignition and turn the engine to the "off" position on your Acura.

Find the reset button on the odometer located on the instrument panel. Press and hold this button while simultaneously turning the key in the ignition to the on or "II" position.

Hold the button for about 10 to 15 seconds, then release it. The "service engine soon" light will go out.

Turn off the vehicle, then turn the engine on. Verify that the "service engine soon" light is still off.

How to Install Radio Codes in a 92 Celica

Some 1992 Toyota Celica models are equipped with a theft deterrent radio. This radio locks the control panel whenever battery power is lost due to a repair or low charge. When the radio is locked, it will not operate until the proper security code is entered. The security code is three digits, and is listed in the back section of the owners manual, on a special radio security card. If youve lost your radio code, youll need to contact Toyota to obtain another code, or return your Celica to a Toyota service department so they can unlock your radio.

Instructions

Press the 1 button while simultaneously pressing the TUNE SEEK button; --- should appear on the display. This means that the radio is ready to receive the code.

Press 1 repeatedly to cycle through the number choices until the first digit of your code appears on the radio screen.

Press 2 repeatedly to cycle through the number choices in the second number position until your number shows on the screen.

Press 3 multiple times until the third digit of your radio code appears on the screen.

Depress and hold the SCAN button until SEC shows on the radio display; once SEC shows on the screen, the radio should be unlocked.

What Gases Do Cars Trucks Emit

How to Install a Belt on a 2000 Windstar

In 1995, Ford launched the Windstar in an attempt to pull some customers away from the overly successful Chrysler minivans -- the Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Caravan. The 2000 Windstar had two V-6 engines available: a 200-horsepower 3.8-liter and a 150-horsepower 3.0-liter. In my years in repair shops, I have replaced the serpentine belt on numerous Windstar vans and have found that is is just like any other vehicle, with exception of a few details.

When I replaced the belts on various 2000 Ford Windstars, I found that the tensioner pulley on the 3.0-liter V-6 engine just below the alternator pulley, and on the 3.8-liter V-6 engines, next to the power steering pump pulley. Because of limited clearance, I always used a 15 mm box-end wrench to rotate the tensioner, as a socket takes up a little too much working space.

Repair Instructions for a 1998 Honda Prelude Timing Belt

The Honda Prelude is a sports coupe that Honda manufactured from 1978 to 2001. The 1998 model is available with several types four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engines, which have a single or double overhead camshaft. These engines use a timing belt to keep the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The timing belt has a limited lifetime and its repair consists of replacing the timing belt at periodic intervals.

Instructions

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the No. 1 cylinder to its top dead center position. Remove the covers for the valves and timing belt.

Fasten a bolt for the timing belt cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. This will hold the adjuster arm in place temporarily. Loosen the adjuster nut for the timing belt by one turn and push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to reduce the tension on the belt.

Hold the tensioner for the balancer in place and tighten its adjusting nut with a socket wrench. Remove the balancer belt from its pulleys and detach the sprocket for the balancer belt from the crankshaft.

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and push the tensioner to relieve the timing belt tension. Tighten the adjuster nut to hold the belt tensioner in place and remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulley.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing pointer with the timing mark on the flywheel. Turn the camshaft pulley clockwise until the word "UP" is on top of the pulley.

Install the timing belt onto its pulleys and belt tensioner. Loosen the locking bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt, then tighten it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the timing belt forward by three teeth to place tension on the timing belt.

Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt with a torque wrench, then tighten it to 33 foot-pounds. Tighten the locking bolt for the timing belt tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. Place the sprocket for the balancer belt on the crankshaft and turn the pulley for the balancer belt so that its timing mark aligns with the notch on the oil pump.

Install the balancer belt onto its pulleys, ensuring that its timing marks remain aligned. Loosen the adjusting nut for the balancer belt tensioner slowly to place tension on the balancer belt.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise one turn to align the timing marks on the timing belt and tighten the adjusting nut to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the bolt that is holding the timing belt tensioner in place. Install the covers for the timing belt and valves. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Dodge Ram is a pick-up truck that started manufacturing in 1981. If you are having problems getting your Dodge Ram to start, there are several things that you can do before you take it to a repair shop. Common issues include fuel, dead batteries, or a bad alternator. You can diagnose the problem yourself without much hassle. You dont have to be a mechanic to accomplish this task. You can do it yourself.

Instructions

Insert the key in the ignition and turn it over. If you hear a "clicking" noise, you may have a bad alternator. Have the truck towed to a service shop to get the alternator replaced.

Check the gauge on the dashboard for any indications of low fuel or a dead battery. If the dashboard does not light up at all, you need to check your battery.

Open the hood to your Dodge ram and use a friends car to jumpstart the engine. Connect the red and black wires from your jumper cables to the red and black terminals on your Ram.

Connect the other end of the wires to the red and black terminals on your friends battery. Start your friends car and then start your Ram. Allow the Ram to sit for about 10 minutes while running. This will charge the battery.

Add 1 gallon of fuel to your Dodge Ram if the truck will not jumpstart. Try to start the car again.

1996 Mustang Alignment Specs

Ford introduced the Mustang in 1964 to compete with Chevrolets Corvette. The Mustang quickly became one of the most popular muscle cars ever made and went on to become an American icon. The Mustang has changed dramatically since those early years, in terms of both its appearance and its performance, but it is still one of most popular sports cars on the market.

The Mustang was redesigned in 1994 and kept that body style until it went through another major redesign in 1999, taking on a boxier, more aggressive style than the rounded-off body of the 1994 to 1998 models. In 1996, Ford put a new Borg-Warner T-45 Transmission in the Mustang, as well as a new 4.6-liter, modular engine, which is still used in the Mustang today.

The front end of 1996 Ford Mustang has a modified McPherson strut-design with shock struts and coil springs. The rear end has a solid-axle design, and its alignment cannot be adjusted. Problems with the alignment on the rear end are more likely due to bent or damaged parts.

The front-end alignment specs are the same for all trims of the 1996 Mustang. (Reference 4)

Always consult an owners manual or a certified mechanic before attempting to perform your own automotive repairs.

The limits for the caster angle for the front wheels of the 1996 Ford Mustang range from +2.65 to +4.15, with the ideal angle being +3.4 degrees.

The limits for the camber angle for the front wheels of the 1996 Ford Mustang range from 1.35 to +.15 for the left wheel and 1.35 to +.15 for the right wheel, with the ideal angle being -.6 for each wheel.

The toe-in can range from 0 to +.24 inches.

On the 1996 Ford Mustang, the toe-out on turns, measured by degrees, should be 19.84 for the outer wheel and 20 for the inner wheel.

How to Check a Civic for VTEC E

The VTEC-E is the single overhead-cam version of the Honda Civic VTEC engine, designed to increase fuel economy at low rpm. Only one of the two intake valves opens a very small amount at low rpm, increasing the fuel/air atomization in the cylinder, utilizing a leaner mixture. It is necessary for the technician to know if the Civic is equipped with a VTEC or a VTEC-E model engine when attempting to diagnose a problem. Identifying a VTEC-E requires little more than raising the hood and making a phone call.

Instructions

Pull the inside hood release, and lift the hood of the Honda Civic.

Find the engine model number engraving located toward the front of the engine just below the head gasket. Remove any grease or dirt that covers the engraving.

Read and record the engraving.

Contact the service department at a Honda dealer and ask a service representative to decode the engraved number to determine if the engine is a VETEC-E.

Ford Windstar Fueling Problems

Ford Windstar fueling problems have resulted in several recalls on models manufactured between 1995 and 2003. Fuel system defects, including incorrectly manufacturer parts and cracks in the gas tank, can result in potentially dangerous gas leaks. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) advises that registered vehicle owners take affected vehicles in for repair to avoid accidents and injuries. Registered vehicle owners should have been notified of recalls via mail by Ford Motor Company.

As part of a 58,640 unit recall by UFI Filters USA and NHTSA, certain 1999-2003 model Ford Windstars were recalled in August 2006 due to design defects that could potentially cause fuel spillage and fires. According to NHTSA, the recall only applies to certain defective filters sold under the Purolator brand name "P/N F65277" that were shipped from Jan. 16 through June 2, 2006. Due to the design defect, "the quick connectors might not fully seat with the tube interface, even though the person making the connection may believe that the quick connector is fully attached," the recall notice states. This may lead to dangerous gas leakage problems, which could cause a fire.

On June 14, 2000, Ford Motor Company recalled 3,000 Windstar minivans because these vehicles may have incorrect fuel line end forms that could result in a lower than specified pull-apart force for the installed fuel line connection. This problem may result in gas leakage, which could lead to a fire. To remedy the problem, dealers must "install a redundant fuel line clip on the fuel supply and return line connections at the rear of the chassis fuel line bundle," the recall notice states.

In November 2009, Ford Motor Company recalled 70,116 Windstar minivans manufactured in 1995 due to fuel tank cracking problems in hot-weather states. This particular model can develop fuel tank cracks in the strap area of the standard 20 gallon tank due to "a combination of factors that are present in certain very hot areas of the country." If cracks propagate all the way through the fuel tank, a potentially dangerous gas leak may result. This recall was issued for registered vehicle owners in Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Mississippi, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Texas, Nevadas Clark County and 10 southern counties of California.

It can be disheartening when repainting your automobile to see bubbles in your final stage of applying the clear coat. After all the work you put into sanding, primer and paint, it is all too easy to see your labor marred by these tiny bubbles, also known as fish eyes. These can be caused by a variety of things, including tiny bits of oil, water or dirt. Even passing diesel exhaust fumes can cause fish eyes in your clear coat. You can repair them, but it is a time-consuming process.

Instructions

Wet sand the bubbled portion of your automobiles surface using extra-fine sandpaper and water. You must sand away all of the clear coat on the affected portion. For example, if there are bubbles on the hood of your car, you must sand the entire hood, not just the bubbles. Always keep your sanding area wet, and gently sand away the clear coat. Do not sand too hard, or you may remove the paint.

Wash and rinse the sanded areas of your automobile thoroughly to completely remove all debris from the surface. If there is any debris remaining, fish eyes will form again when you reapply the clear coat. Allow the surface to completely dry since water can also cause bubbling in the clear coat.

Mix fish eye preventer and clear coat in your paint sprayer according to the fish eye preventers instructions. The preventer is silicon-based, and can compensate for tiny bits of oils or debris in the atmosphere that could potentially cause fish eyes.

Spray the clear coat and fish eye preventer mixture on the affected portion of your automobile. Use a smooth, even motion. If you plan to apply more than one coat, make sure that the preceding coat is completely dry. If the preceding coat is still wet, this could also cause bubbles to form.

How to Jump Start a 1990 535I BMW

The battery in a 1990 5-series BMW is designed to be a reliable as the car. There are occasions, however, when the battery goes flat. It usually comes as a surprise when the engine doesnt fire at the turn of the key. For this reason, its a good idea to know how to safely and correctly jump start your BMW. The battery on this model is located under the back seat, but the jump-start position is under the hood. Its marked with a one-inch plastic "plus" symbol. You will need another car with a live battery to do the job.

Instructions

Try the ignition first to troubleshoot the battery.

Determine that the battery is the reason the engine wont start. Turn the ignition. If the engine cranks, the battery is good. If theres silence or a ticking sound, the battery is faulty.

Turn the ignition off. Lift the hood of both vehicles. Locate the positive post under the hood of the BMW 535i. It connects to the clamp of the positive (red) cable. Attach the clamp on the other end of the red wire to the positive terminal on the booster vehicle.

Attach the negative (black) clamp to the negative terminal of the booster battery. Attach the other negative clamp to the engine frame of the BMW to complete the circuit. Any unpainted metal surface will suffice. Just make sure its away from any moving parts.

Run the booster cars engine for a few minutes before trying to start the BMW.

Start the engine of the booster vehicle. Wait at least 5 minutes for a charge to build up. Start the BMW. If it starts, move on to the next step.

If it fails to start, wait another few minutes and try again. If the car still fails to start after 30 seconds of trying, call a professional mechanic. The battery might not be at fault, and further tries could damage your engine.

Remove the cables in the reverse order they were attached: the BMW engine frame first, and the booster batterys red terminal last.

Charge the battery for at least 12 hours.

Drive the BMW to a location where you can safely remove the battery and attach it to a battery charger for at least 12 hours. The vehicles alternator will provide some charge to the battery as you drive, but this is not its primary function.

Snap-on Tools has long been an understood mainstay supplier of professional mechanic garages, given the companys wide array of tool choices. From hundreds of hand tools to pneumatic and automated ones, the company consistently produces a quality product. This is important since much of the work mechanics perform regularly would break home tools quickly. Manufactured for significant harder work pressure than normally expected with consumer grade tools, Snap-on instruments for automotive work have been available for 90 years, with ratchets, sockets, wrenches and screwdrivers making up the basic bread-and-butter of the choices.

Snap-on automotive tools, along with its general product line, first came on the market in the early 1920s. The initial product line focused on basic wrenches with interchangeable sockets. Prior to this time, tools did not have such flexibility, and what you bought only worked in terms of one function and one size. As a result, a mechanic typically needed a lot of molded tools for different work sizes. Using the door-to-door salesman approach, Snap-on was an early innovater visiting mechanic shops and showing their tool product value on the floor. This immediatey created a growing boom driven by eager customers.

Snap-on tools today still delivers via a stocked dealer van just the way they were beginning in the 1950s. Again, the emphasis is on instant proof of the tools value on the shop floor. Tools today include hand versions, diagnostic measurement units, and power or automated tools (electric and pneumatic). Snap-on has also branched out its tool line into software and vehicle repair database management.

The hand tools still resemble the basic categories of the 1920s: screwdrivers, wrenches and sockets. In addition, Snap-on also provides a wide line of automotive-specific tools such as specialty tools, punch and chisels, specialized hammers, big and small crowbars, and plenty of versions of pliers for a wide range of jobs. For engine work, Snap-on provides a wide line of bearing and oil seal installation and removal sets, piston work tools, bushing and suspension-specific tools, and specialty lathes and cutting tools for fabrication.

Snap-on power tools come in two categories: electric and pneumatic. These units tend to be for heavy duty work and high-powered applications. The selection includes impact wrenches, air drills, pneumatic ratchets, hammer tools and many types of fabrication tools (grinders, cutters, polishing, and hammering).

With the wide array of tools to choose from, mechanics will quickly find a need for storage to make sure tools are secure and dont get lost. Snap-ons selections provide for storage units ranging from rolling drawers to full-size closet storage, all being lockable as needed. More importantly, the storage units are stronger than retail grade, so they dont buckle under the tool weight.

What Happens When Water Is Put Into a Cars Gas Tank

Water and fuel dont mix, so its never a good idea to put water into a cars gas tank. However, when water does get into a gas tank, either accidentally, or as the result of a malicious prank, the result is engine trouble.

Water can get into a gas tank even if you didnt put it there. Sometimes water gets in through a badly sealed cap on the tank, or by natural condensation on the inside of the gas tank

Water in the gas tank may lead to the car bucking, stalling or not starting at all, or starting the car could be difficult. This is because the water and fuel separate, especially when the car has been sitting for a while, and the water sinks to the bottom with the fuel on top. Water can also get into other parts of the engine causing rust and corrosion.

The method you use to get rid of water in your cars gas tank depends on how much got in there in the first place. In the case of only a little water, an additive that dries up water could be used. The additive combines with the water as it goes through the running engine. If there is a lot of water, a mechanic will have to remove the gas. This may include removing the fuel tank from the car and putting in new filters. The tank is then put back and is filled with clean gas.

Pipe flaring tools are a necessity to help you replace or repair an exhaust pipe. Most inexpensive exhaust pipe flaring tools are able to round out the end of the pipe, but a high-end tool will move the metal to make the opening larger. To make the change more dramatic, you can heat the pipe before flaring to make the metal more pliable.

The Superior Tool Pro Pipe Flaring Tool is used to flare brass, soft copper and aluminum tubing in all standard sizes ranging from 3/16 to 5/8 inches. It has a self-centering yoke inclined at 45 degrees that is made of resilient, malleable steel

The Lisle Flaring Tool Set includes strut and tail-pipe cutoff tools that can cut both round and out-of-round pipes. You can use one hand to operate the four knife-edged wheel. A specialized design lets this tool shift so that it can make out-of-round cuts as well as cut an entire pipe with a one-third turn.

The Great Neck Saw Pipe Flaring Tool can produce a single flare on tubing with no possibility of crushing. It can make a smooth flare on all standard high pressure fittings, including sizes 3/16 to 5/8 inches.

The Bend Pak Blue Bullet Heavy Duty Pipe Bender is a solid steel, electric machine that can be used for all necessary flaring and expanding with a maximum capacity of 3 inches. It also features a degree plate for easy viewing, an internal expander and a high speed clamp-less swager.

The RIDGID Model 345 Flaring Tool 45 Degrees can flare brass, aluminum, soft copper and mild steel tubing in seven sizes ranging from 3/16 to 5/8 inches. Its center yoke is inclined to a 45 degree angle.

The Superior Tool Company Papco Style Flaring Tool is a small, hand-held tool that can produce 45 degree flares on aluminum, copper, brass, and thin wall tubing in sizes ranging form 3/16 to 5/8 inches.

How to Change a Nissan Frontier Timing Belt

Nissan markets its D22 and D40 pickup trucks in North America as the Frontier. A six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft is standard for the D22 models. The timing belt for this engine keeps the camshafts synchronized with the camshaft, enabling the engine to run smoothly. The timing belt has a limited lifetime, and typically requires replacement after 60,000 miles.

Instructions

Disconnect the undercover from the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the shroud, cooling fan and cooling fan pulleys from the radiator. Drain the coolant from the radiator, and disconnect the hose from the radiator. Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

Remove the accessory drive belts for the power steering pump, air compressor and alternator. Disconnect the spark plugs and the distributor dust shield with a socket wrench. Remove the idler pulley and bracket from the air compressor.

Disconnect the air intake tube from the cylinder head cover with a socket wrench. Detach the radiator hose from the housing of the thermostat.

Remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley, and pull the pulley from its shaft with a gear puller. Remove the front timing belt covers.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the punch mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the notch on the housing for the oil pump. The punch mark on the left camshaft sprocket must also align with the punch mark on the rear timing belt cover.

Fasten the bolt for the crankshaft pulley directly to the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Disconnect the timing belt tensioner with a hex wrench, and remove the tensioner spring. Remove the timing belt from its sprockets.

Remove the cylinder head covers with a socket wrench, and loosen the rocker arm retaining bolts. Install the timing belt tensioner with a hex wrench, and connect the tensioner spring. Tighten the lock nut to hold the timing belt tensioner in place temporarily.

Align the marks on the timing belt with the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprockets. Install the new timing belt onto the sprockets with the arrow facing the front covers for the front timing belt.

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place manually. Loosen its lock nut with a hex wrench until the tensioner turns 70 to 80 degrees clockwise. Tighten the lock nut to hold the tensioner in this position.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench by several full turns, and align the timing marks again. Push the timing belt with 22 pounds of pressure between the right camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley while you loosen the tensioner lock nut.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise by several full turns with a socket wrench, and align the timing marks once again. Attach the front timing belt covers, and tighten the mounting bolts to 24 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley, and install the pulley onto the shaft. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to between 90 and 98 foot pounds.

Install the remaining components by performing steps one through three in reverse order. Start the engine, and correct any coolant leaks.

How to Fix an Oxygen Sensor for a Volkswagen Passat

The Volkswagen Passat oxygen sensor controls the amount of fuel burned by the engine. If the oxygen sensor is failing, the car will run rich, burning extra fuel and decreasing your fuel mileage. Volkswagen secures the wiring for the oxygen sensor using cable ties to prevent damage to the electrical wires from the exhaust pipe. When an oxygen sensor fails, it must be replaced. Find a new sensor at an auto parts store or Volkswagen dealer.

Instructions

Raise the front end of your Volkswagen Passat and secure it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack when the jack stands are secure to provide room to work.

Locate the oxygen sensor between the manifold and the catalytic converter. The sensor will be protruding from the exhaust pipe with an electrical connection at the top. Pull the wiring harness free of the electrical connection.

Remove the cable ties on the harness, making note of where they go. You will need to replace the cable ties in the same locations to protect the wiring from exhaust damage.

Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe using an oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet. Replace the sensor with a new one. Thread the new sensor in by hand to start so you do not cross thread the sensor. Tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

Torque the oxygen sensor to 41 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Replace the cable ties on the wiring and reconnect the wiring harness to the electrical connection on the sensor.

Raise the car and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

How to Retrieve Codes for a 1991 Honda Accord

You can retrieve the trouble codes on your 91 Honda Accord in home garage. The Accord comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer that stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle when they detect a malfunction. They also keep track of the vehicles regular servicing needs. When the computer receives a code, it illuminates a warning or service light on the instrument panel. You can use a small handheld computerized device called an OBD scan tool to retrieve the codes to diagnose what is wrong with your vehicle. Scan tools are available at auto-parts retailers.

Instructions

Find the trapezoidal-shaped data link connector (DLC) on the lower part of the drivers-side dash just left of the steering column. Plug the OBD scan tool into this DLC.

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On/Off" position. Make sure you dont go past this point and crank the engine.

Follow the directions on the screen of the scan tool to read the codes. Write down the codes on a piece of paper.

Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle. Look up the codes in the scan tools manual.

A bottle jack is an essential tool for any mechanic. When you need to raise a vehicle, nothing will do a better job than a bottle jack. When your jack fails, it can leave you completely unable to work on a vehicle. Instead of sending yours away for a lengthy and costly repair, check some of the common causes of problems with bottle jacks. You may find you can repair the problem before sending your jack away.

Instructions

Check the weight limit of your jack and compare if with the weight of the vehicle. The capacity of the jack is written either on the jack or the documentation that accompanied it when it was new. The weight of a car is usually written on a panel on the drivers door pillar. Do not lift a vehicle with a jack or rated to handle the weight. Property damage or injury could result.

Remove the jack from the vehicle and extend it all the way out. You may be able to do this by pumping with no weight or you may have to open the release valve and pull the piston out. Watch for binding in the piston as you are pulling it out, also check for excessive oil (there should be a little, but not much more), dirt or other foreign substances on the piston. These could be a result of a bad seal. Examine the seal around the bottom of the piston for damage. If this seal is damaged the jack will likely need to go to a repair shop.

Open the oil reservoir filler cap and check the level of the hydraulic oil. This cap is usually the uppermost cap on the bottle jack and you may need the screwdriver to help you open it. The oil should be about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole. If the oil is low then add hydraulic fluid to bring it to the right level but do not over fill.

Bleed the jack by opening the release valve and pumping the handle vigorously several times. Close the release valve and pump the jack up to its full height. If it still wont go all the way up then repeat the bleed process until it does. Wipe the jack with the cloth before bleeding and then examine it afterward for any sign of a leak. If you find a leak then trace it back to the seal it is coming from and replace that seal. The procedure will vary depending on the seal and the model of jack. Consult a professional if you are unable to replace it.

Lift the vehicle using the jack. If the jack still will not lift then you may have a problem with the pump. This is a very complex system and you should send the jack to an authorized repair facility to have the pump replaced.

How to Cut a Gas Tank in Half

Cutting a gas tank in half isnt an overly difficult task if youre equipped with the right tools. Although you could use a grinder or oxyacetylene torch to accomplish the job, the safest and perhaps most efficient tool to use is a reciprocating saw. In order to cut the tank effectively, the saw will need to be fixed with a metal-cutting blade. A metal-cutting blade will utilize multiple teeth, usually numbering somewhere between 14 and 20 per inch. This is much more than a wood-cutting blade, which has only 6 to 8 teeth per inch.

Instructions

Rinse the gas tank out several times with water and let it drain. If you have time, you should also allow the tank to air out for roughly 3 to 5 days. Obviously, the gas should be removed from the vehicle.

Use marking chalk to draw a line around the middle of the gas tank. By following this line, youll be better equipped to make a clean, straight cut around the entire gas tank.

Attach a bit to your drill specifically designed for drilling in metal. Put on your safety glasses and drill a hole at some point along the line you drew with the marking chalk. The hole you drill will make it easier to insert the blade and start the cut with your reciprocating saw.

Grip the reciprocating saw firmly and pull the trigger to start the saw. Start the blade into the hole you drilled and begin sawing the gas tank in half. Follow your line and work slowly. If you rush or push too hard, you may dull or damage the saw blade. Continue cutting until youve successfully separated the gas tank into halves.

How to Repair Your Cougar Rear Sway Bar

The rear sway bar on a Mercury Cougar provides added stability for the car when cornering or making other maneuvers at speed. The sway bar mounts on the rear frame and ties the chassis to the rear suspension to reduce occurrence of body roll. If the sway bar incurs damage from an impact, or simply suffers end deformity from wear and tear, youll need to replace it as the sway bar itself is not repairable. If youre known for your mechanical aptitude, you can accomplish this job in less than one hour.

Instructions

Place the wheel chocks against the Cougars right-front wheel to prevent the Mercury from rolling.

Elevate the Cougars rear end using a floor jack. Position a jack stand under the body rail jack points on either side of the back of the Cougar and lower the car onto the jack stands. Move the floor jack away from the rear of the car.

Unbolt the ends of the Cougars rear sway bar from the sway bar links using your socket set. Unbolt the rear sway bar brackets with the socket set and lower the sway bar to the ground by hand.

Move the old sway bar out from under the Cougar by hand. Replace it with the new sway bar. Hold the new sway bar in position and bolt the sway bar brackets back in using your socket set, making sure the sway bar bushings dont squirt out while tightening the brackets.

Bolt the sway bar ends to the sway bar links using your socket set. Lift the Cougars rear end off the jack stands using the floor jack. Move the stands away from the car before lowering it to the ground.

How to Remove a Head From an F 250

The Ford "F" series of full-size pickups use the model number to indicate the rated carrying capacity of the vehicle. For example, an F-250 has a payload capacity of about 2500 pounds, and newer models can carry more than this. The standard engine options for the F-250 include 5.4-liter and 6.8-liter gasoline engines. These engines have two cylinder heads, each covering half of the cylinders. The procedure for removing the cylinder heads is generally the same for all F-250 trucks made since 2001 with gasoline engines.

Instructions

Remove the air conditioner from the vehicle to access the cylinder heads on top of the engine block. This generally requires a professional mechanic with special equipment to avoid releasing rigerant gas into the atmosphere.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure the engine does not start accidentally. Remove the covers for the cylinder heads.

Remove the intake manifold from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the timing chains from their sprockets. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

Disconnect the two retaining bolts for the heater hose with a socket wrench. Squeeze the clamp together, and slide it down the hose to release the hose. Detach the heater hose from the engine block. Remove all additional electrical connectors and hoses needed to access the cylinder heads in your F250.

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and lift the cylinder heads from the engine block. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket from the engine block. Clean all traces of the gasket from the engine block with a gasket scraper.

How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor in a Wrangler

If the check engine light on the dash of your Jeep is on, stop into an auto parts store and ask them to scan your Jeep for codes. Nearly all major auto parts store offer this service for free. Failure of the oxygen sensor is a common problem, but the part can be changed at home, saving you a major repair bill. The oxygen sensors are in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the catalytic converter on the Jeep Wrangler. You will need a special socket to remove the oxygen sensor, available at most auto parts stores and tool supply stores.

Instructions

Lift the Jeep with a jack and support it on all four corners with a set of jack stands. The oxygen or O2 sensors are in the exhaust under the middle of the Jeep, so you will have to lift the entire Jeep to access them effectively.

Locate the two O2 sensors in the exhaust system. The first one is near the center of the transmission, and the second is between the resonator and the catalytic converter. Unplug the wiring harness connectors from both sensors by lifting the locking tab with a small flat screwdriver and pulling them from the harness.

Remove the O2 sensors, one at a time, using a oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet. Turn the sensor counter-clockwise to remove it from the exhaust. Discard the old sensor.

Install the two new sensors into the threaded sections of the exhaust where you removed the old ones from. The two sensors used by Jeep are identical, so either one is fine in each hole.

Tighten the sensors with an oxygen sensor socket and a torque wrench to 22 foot-pounds. Do not use thread locker, anti-seize or any other compound on the threads of the sensor.

Insert the wiring harness connectors on both sensors into the plugs on the wiring harness. Verify that they lock into the connector by checking the tab to see that it is engaged.

Remove the jack stands and lower the Jeep to the ground. Test run the engine and check your CEL or check engine light to ensure it has gone off.

How to Change a Voltage Regulator

The voltage regulator in your automobile controls the voltage in your electrical system, maintaining a constant current to run the electrical and electronic accessories in your car. It maintains a constant voltage of between 13 to 15 volts, depending on your automobile. The extra voltage above your batterys voltage, which is 12 volts, allows the battery to be recharged. There are two types of regulators, contained electronic regulators and contact point regulators. Unless you have a classic car, more than 25 years old, your regulator will be of the electronic variety and is either attached to your alternator or located remotely.

Instructions

Use a wrench to detach the cables from the battery. The battery is typically located under the hood, directly behind the grill of the automobile, on either the right or left side. It has two cables attached. Detach the positive cable first, it will be labeled with a "+" sign. Loosen the nut holding the cable by turning it counterclockwise. Remove the negative cable in the same way.

Locate the voltage regulator. It is either in a black plastic box on the back of your alternator, which will be labeled on the belt diagram under the hood of your car or in line in the battery cable between the alternator and the battery. Consult a repair manual for your make and model for more specifics.

Position the new regulator over the old for remote regulators, inline with the battery cable and not attached to the alternator and unplug each cable from the old regulator and plug it into the new regulator. There may be up to four cables, depending on the make and model. For cables attached with screws, loosen the screws by turning them counterclockwise with a screwdriver. Attach the cables by fitting them onto the corresponding screws on the new regulator. Tighten the screws with the screwdriver. For integrated regulators, those attached to the alternators, move directly to the next step.

Remove the screws or bolts holding the regulator to the car frame, or alternator, using a wrench or screwdriver. The type of mounting hardware depends on the car model. Position the new regulator, aligning it with the holes on the alternator or car frame. Install the mounting screws through the holes in the new regulator and tighten them, by turning them clockwise.

Replace the battery cables and tighten the cables with the wrench, making sure to attach each cable to the contact you removed it from, positive to positive and negative to negative.

How to Stop Vibration in My Harley Dyna Wide Glide

In the last few years Harley riders, especially riders of Dyna Wide Glides, have reported improperly installed and defective rubber front motor mounts. The part has never been recalled and Harley-Davidson has never admitted the parts might be defective or improperly installed. Besides inspection of the mounts, and replacement if necessary, Harley also recommends aligning the motorcycle by loosening, but not removing, all motor mount bolts and running the engine for five seconds, during which time the mounts align themselves to the frame. The bolts are then re-tightened to manufacturer specifications. While Harley recommends the realignment, the procedure is rarely done because the mounts usually need to be replaced anyway.

Instructions

How to Replace the Thermostat on the 3 1 Grand Prix

The cooling system inside of the Grand Prix 3.1-liter engines comes equipped with a spring-loaded thermostat that opens and closes according to the temperature of the antifreeze. The thermostat has a bottom spring that compresses and opens the top of the thermostat to allow the antifreeze to flow through the engine block. The main purpose of the thermostat is to prevent the engine from overheating by regulating the flow of the antifreeze through the engine. If the thermostat fails, it has a safety feature that will allow the thermostat to return to the open position.

Instructions

Pull the Grand Prix with the 3.1-liter engine into a safe and level work area. Set the emergency brake and open the hood. Shut the motor off and wait two to three hours for the engine to cool down completely.

Slowly unscrew the radiator cap and set it to the side. Make sure that the cap is not hot and does not have pressure on it. Slide the drip pan underneath the radiator drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. Loosen the drain plug with the pliers and allow a couple of gallons of coolant to drain into the drain pan. Tighten the drain plug back down tight.

Locate the top radiator hose that connects to the top radiator port and the intake manifold. The other end of the radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing on top of the intake manifold. Unscrew the hose clamp from the end of the hose that is attached to the thermostat housing port with the pliers. Pull the clamp back onto the hose. Twist and pull the hose off the thermostat housing port.

Unscrew the two thermostat housing mounting bolts with a ratchet and a socket. Pull the housing off and set it to the side. Pull the thermostat out of the intake manifold and discard it into the drain pan. Scrape away any of the old gasket from the base of the intake manifold and the bottom of the thermostat housing. Wipe away the excess gasket, dirt and debris from both places with a clean rag.

Spread a thin line of the red high-temperature silicone around the bottom of the thermostat housing. Push the gasket onto the bottom of the housing so that the silicone will hold the gasket in place and act as a extra sealer. Make sure that the bolt holes are matched up on the gasket and the thermostat housing.

Set the thermostat housing back over the intake manifold and match the bolt holes up. Screw the two mounting bolts through the thermostat housing and tighten with the ratchet and socket.

Push the top radiator hose back over the thermostat housing port and line the hose clamp over the radiator hose and the port. Tighten the clamp with the screwdriver until the hose is securely tightened to the thermostat housing port.

Add the antifreeze to the radiator until it is full. Leave the cap off the radiator. Crank the motor and let the engine heat up until the thermostat opens. The thermostat generally opens around 180 degrees. When the thermostat opens, the antifreeze level will drop inside of the radiator. Keep adding more antifreeze to the radiator until the antifreeze stabilizes at the top of the radiator cap. Screw the cap on tight and turn the engine off.

If you have a 95 Camaro that will turn over but wont start, there are several things that you need to check before you have it hauled to a service shop. Since the motor cranks over you can be sure that you do not have a dead battery--if the battery were dead, the motor would not crank. You can also be sure that your starter and your alternator are functioning. The problem could be a clogged fuel filter, a faulty engine coil or low fuel.

Instructions

Turn the ignition to "on."

Allow the gauges to pressurize and then check the fuel level. If you have enough gas to start the car, it might be that the gas gauge is faulty, and you should have it checked. If you dont have enough gas to start the car, add one gallon of gas.

Try to start the Camaro again. If the car starts, you need to replace the fuel gauge.

Get a mechanic to change out your fuel filter. Mechanics have specialized tools for changing out fuel filters.

Have the mechanic check your engine coils. If an engine coil fails, the car will not be able to start properly.

Instructions on How to Install a Strut Tower on a 2000 Mustang GT

The 2000 Mustang GT uses McPherson Type struts on its front suspension. This type of strut makes up part of the cars steering assembly, with the damper acting as the upper steering pivot. If you are noticing your Mustang is riding rougher and not handling as well, the struts may be to blame. You can purchase the individual strut or an entire assembly. The individual strut is cheaper, but its easier to replace an intact assembly.

Instructions

Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels with a lug wrench and raise the car with an automotive jack. Place a jack stand under the lower controls that are on each side of the car. Remove the lug nuts and both wheels.

Use a socket wrench to remove the center bolts from the brake caliper guide pins and pull the pins out of the caliper. Pull the caliper off the rotor and secure it out of the way with a piece of wire. Be caul not to damage the brake hose.

Open the hood and remove the three nuts that attach the strut assembly to the cars frame.

Locate the mounting bracket attached to the strut assembly that holds the brake line. Remove the nut and detach the bracket. Cars not equipped with ABS will not have this.

Locate the two large bolts that attach the strut to the spindle and remove the nuts with a socket wrench. You might need to hold the bolt head with another wrench to prevent it from turning. Place a large screwdriver or punch against the each bolt and tap it with a mallet to drive it out.

Pull the strut assembly down and out of the car.

Insert the new strut assembly up into place. Make sure the strut is properly aligned and that the three bolts are inserted into their holes at the top. Replace the three nuts, but do not tighten them.

Replace the two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. Replace the nuts and tighten them to 141 to 191 ft.-lbs. of torque with a torque wrench.

Replace the brake line bracket.

Tighten the top bolts to 25 ft.-lbs. of torque.

Place the brake caliper into place and insert the guide pins. Repeat the strut replacement procedure on the opposite side. Replace the wheel and lug nuts.

Will a Car Run Without a Power Steering Pump Belt?

Some car owners wonder if a vehicle can operate without a power steering pump belt or if this function is safe. Not replacing a PSP belt may save money and hassle at first, but it will eventually cause huge problems.

The movement of the engine drives the PSP belt. The belt then transfers engine power to the PSP itself, which puts power steering fluid under pressure. This pressurized fluid amplifies steering wheel movement to make steering the car effortless.

Removal of the PSP belt stops the pumps function, and eliminates power steering. Technically, a car could be driven without a PSP belt, but its not a recommended practice.

With power steering disabled, the steering wheel becomes much less responsive and more difficult to operate. Without the circulation of power steering fluid, the steering mechanism will lose lubrication over time, ultimately causing the entire steering system to fail, endangering the life of the driver and others.

How to Paint Auto Wheels

Painting a cars wheels is one way to give it a unique look. You might also want to match the car color, hide chrome that has seen better days, or restore wheels to their original condition. Painting your wheels can be done in a couple of days.

Instructions

Clean the wheels thoroughly. Use soap and water and scrub them, making sure to get into the crevices to remove debris. Use a hose to rinse off the wheels.

Sand your wheels to remove the current finish, and help primer stick to the wheel. If your wheels are made of chrome, sand them until you get below the surface of the chrome. 120- to 320-grit sandpaper works well. If your wheels are knicked, try to sand down below the knick or sand the knick out. Remove final debris with a 600-grit sandpaper.

Tape around the outside of the wheel by placing tape on the tire. Trace and cut a moon-shaped piece of cardboard that can be placed at an angle between the wheel and wheel well. The moon shape should be no thicker than a half-moon. It will block paint from the spray.

Lay the wheel on a flat surface. Wear a mask to avoid inhaling the paint. Spray two to three coats of primer on the wheel and allow time to dry. Sand it using 600-grit sandpaper.

Spray two to three coats of the paint that you choose. If you have an area you are not happy with due to paint chips or dripping, you can correct it with fine sandpaper and a rubbing compound to restore shine. Allow time to dry, at least 24 hours.

Apply a clear coat. Two applications should suffice. Let it dry overnight.

How do I Replace a 2003 V6 Mustang Oil Pan

The oil pan in your 2003 V6 Ford Mustang is secured to the bottom of the engine block, and it holds a certain amount of oil for the lubrication system to do its job. If the pan in your Mustang becomes damaged and begins to leak oil, you need to install a new pan. You can replace the pan at home with the help of some special tools.

Instructions

Park your Mustang on level ground. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack. Position two jack stands under the frame for support. Apply the parking brake, and block the rear wheels with chocks.

Place a clean, large drain pan under the engine oil pan. Remove the drain plug with a wrench. Allow the oil to drain completely. Cover the pan to keep dirt off the oil for later reuse.

Remove the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with a wrench.

Detach the upper radiator shield with a ratchet and socket.

Slide the drain pan under the oil filter. Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench.

Set up engine lifting brackets and a support fixture on top of the engine compartment, and secure the engine.

Remove the left and right motor mounts with a ratchet and socket.

Take off the starter motor with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket.

Unfasten and lower the engine support bracket just enough to gain access to all the oil pan mounting bolts.

Detach the wiring harness bracket next to the oil pan. Remove the pan with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

Clean the engine block mating surface with a gasket scraper and solvent. Let it dry completely. Apply a light coat of silicone sealant to the oil pan gasket mating surface. Set a new pan gasket on the pan. Position the pan under the engine block. Install the pan mounting bolts, and tighten them with your fingers. Tighten the bolts alternately with a torque wrench, working toward the rear of the engine, to 44 inch-pounds (5 Nm) and then to 88 inch-pounds (10 Nm). Tighten the three bolts that hold the transmission housing bell to 33 foot-pounds (45 Nm). Make sure the pan drain plug is correctly installed.

Reinstall the wiring harness to the oil pan and the engine support bracket. Tighten the larger upper bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) and the smaller ones to 68 foot-pounds (90 Nm) with the torque wrench.

Replace the starter motor, and tighten the bolts to 18 foot-pounds (15 Nm) with the torque wrench.

Install the left and right motor mounts, and tighten the bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) with the torque wrench.

Replace the oil filter by hand. Replace the upper radiator shield with the ratchet and socket.

Lower your Mustang with the floor jack.

Connect the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with the wrench.

Refill the engine with oil using a small funnel.

Check the oil pan for leaks.

How to Replace an Exhaust Flange Gasket

All vehicles have at least one pipe with a flange connection. The front pipe or header pipe bolted to the manifold uses a flange of some type. Many modern vehicles now connect other components, such as catalytic converters, downstream exhaust pipes and even mufflers, with flange connections. With the car on a lift and a mechanic that knows what he is doing, the repair could take a mere few minutes. With a home repair mechanic laying on his back with limited tools, the repair could become complicated.

Instructions

Inspect the pipe with the leaking flange gasket caully before attempting to disconnect it. Front-pipe-to-manifold flanges often require the rear flange to the converter or pipe be separated in order to access the leaking gasket. Sometimes unhooking an exhaust hanger somewhere down the exhaust stream might allow enough flexibility to forgo the rear flange disconnection.

Determine how the flange is connected. All front-pipe-to-manifold flanges are secured by nuts to the studs of the manifold. Downstream flange connections may use studs on one side and nuts on the other or simple nuts and bolts. Downstream studs can be distinguished by round heads which, unlike a hex bolt head, cannot be held with a wrench. Studs have grooved notches in their shafts and do not require a box-end wrench for removing the nut. Nut and bolt connections will require the bolt of the head be held stationary (with the wrench) while a ratchet and socket loosen the nut (or another wrench).

Disconnect the flange hardware. If necessary, heat the nuts of the connection with an oxyacetylene torch. Using a portable propane torch may not heat the nut up enough or could take a considerable amount of time. Heat just the edges of the nut and not the bolt. This will expand the nut. Once the nut is cherry red, turn off the torch and remove the nut. For front pipes, a ratchet, long extension and socket are most likely required.

Repeat for each nut and stud/bolt connection of the flange until all retaining hardware is removed. The studs will remain intact on their respective exhaust components.

Separate the flange connection. This is where the exhaust pipe hanger tool may come in handy. Releasing one or more exhaust hangers near the flange connection may give the exhaust system enough flexibility to access the mating surfaces of each mating flange. As mentioned earlier, it may also require separating the other connection of the exhaust component with the compromised flange gasket.

Clean each flange connections mating surface with emery cloth or medium-grit sandpaper, after allowing the exhaust system to cool down, if a torch was used.

Apply a level amount of high-temp Perma-Tex (O2 sensor-safe) compound on both sides of the gasket. Place the gasket between the flanges. On most flange connections, theres a small piece of pipe protruding on the inside of the flange to place the gasket on, depending on the type of application. Some front pipe gaskets are called "donut" gaskets and fit into a ball-flared exhaust pipe.

Reconnect the flange connection, after replacing the system on hangers, if applicable, with new hardware (nuts, bolts, washers and lock washers).

Start the vehicle and check the flange connection for leaks. If necessary, re-tighten the hardware.

How to Troubleshoot Problems With No Fire to the Points on a Massey Ferguson 175

There were only two engines available for the Massey Ferguson 175 over the span of the 11-year production run of this model. Both engines are 4-cylinder motors, one a diesel and the other gasoline powered. Only the latter has an ignition system, naturally. Troubleshooting a breaker point ignition system is a straightforward task, but all components involved must function correctly to deliver voltage where and when its needed.

Instructions

Set the multi-meter to the voltage scale that registers 0 to 20 volts. Check the voltage at the battery terminals. Charge the battery if the voltage is less than 12.5 volts. Clean the battery cable connections if any corrosion is present.

Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Measure the voltage at the primary side of the ignition coil. Replace the ignition switch or connecting wires if no voltage is present at the primary terminal of the ignition coil.

Measure the resistance of the primary ignition coil windings. Turn the ignition switch off and set the multi-meter to the lowest ohm scale. Place the tester leads on both ignition coil terminals. Replace the coil if resistance exceeds 5 ohms.

Replace the breaker points if they appear corroded or pitted. Replace the condenser, if no faults are found elsewhere. You can test the condenser with the proper equipment, but the cost of a new one is minimal.

How to Fill the Hydraulic Fluid in a Forklift

Hydraulic fluid is the lifeblood of a forklift. Forklifts rely on hydraulics for their lifting abilities as well as steering. It is important to maintain the proper level of hydraulic fluid in a forklifts reservoir. An inadequate level of hydraulic fluid will decrease a forklifts lifting and steering abilities. An overabundance of fluid, on the other hand, can lead to other problems, such as leaks and spills. Many manufacturers recommend replacing a forklifts hydraulic oil every 1,000 hours of use.

Instructions

Consult the forklift operators manual, if available. It will tell you the specific grade of hydraulic fluid to use as well as what the particular fill level of the hydraulic tank is. If the manufacturers recommendation cannot be found, use a general purpose fluid like ISO 32 hydraulic oil.

Park the forklift on level ground. Lower the forks until they touch the ground, set the parking brake, and turn the ignition off.

Locate the hydraulic reservoir. It will have a vented fill cap on its top side and a sight glass or fill gauge on its side to indicate the fluid level.

Remove the vented fill cap. Insert the oil delivery pumps discharge nozzle into the fill tube and begin pumping fluid into the reservoir.

Observe the tanks fluid level by via the sight glass or fill gauge. Once the fluid level reaches the max fill line, stop pumping. Do not overfill the tank.

Slowly withdraw the delivery pumps fill nozzle. Use a shop towel to contain or clean up any hydraulic fluid that may have spilled onto the outside of the tank.

Finish filling the forklifts hydraulic tank by replacing the vented fill cap.

How to Use a U Joint C Frame Press Service Kit

A C-frame U-joint press kit is not something that most homeowners have in their toolboxes. In the past, if someones U-joint needed replacement, the vehicle had to go into the shop for service. Today, auto parts stores are renting and lending specialized tools for the do-it-yourself mechanic. Among tools available for rent are brake caliper kits, specialized wrenches and C-frame U-joint press service kits. Having access to this kit makes replacing U-joints something that a vehicle owner may accomplish in a home garage.

Instructions

Clean all grease and grime away from the yoke.

Remove the snap ring bearing cap retainers by inserting the tips of snap ring pliers into the holes on the snap ring and squeezing the handle of the pliers together to unseat the rings from the grooves in the yoke. Pull the snap rings out.

Slip a receiving cup --- taken from the service kit and large enough to allow removal of the bearing cap from the yoke but small enough to be in full contact with the yoke --- into the open end of the C-clamp with the open end of the cup facing the inside of the C-clamp.

Slide an anvil onto the end of the forcing screw on the other side of the C-clamp. Ensure that the anvil is small enough to pass through the yoke of the U-joint.

Position the U-joint press over the yoke. Tighten the forcing screw by hand until the anvil sits on the bearing cap and the cup is firmly on the yoke over the bearing cap on the opposite side.

Tighten the forcing screw clockwise with an adjustable wrench until the bearing cap on the cup side is out of the yoke.

Turn the clamp around 180-degrees. Tighten the forcing screw by hand until the anvil is firmly against the solid portion of the U-joint and the cup is in position to receive the other bearing cap.

Tighten the forcing screw until the other bearing cap is free from the yoke. Repeat the steps for the other two bearing caps.

Remove the receiving cup from the U-joint press. Remove the bearing caps from a replacement U-joint and set them aside. Ensure that the needle bearings inside the bearing cap remain on the sides of the bearing caps.

Slide the solid portion of the U-joint into the yoke so that two of the opposite ends are in the two holes in the yoke. Move the solid portion to one side in the yoke and insert a bearing cap over the end. Tap the bearing cap lightly with a hammer to get it started into the hole in the yoke.

Position the U-joint press over the yoke so that the anvil is in contact with the bearing cap. Hand-tighten the forcing screw until the other side of the C-clamp is firmly in contact with the yoke. Tighten the forcing screw, pressing the bearing cap into the hole in the yoke. Keep pressing the cap into the yoke until the groove for the snap ring is clearly visible.

Move the solid center of the U-joint to the other side of the yoke far enough that a bearing cap can be partially inserted on the end, but not so far that it comes out of the first bearing cap. This ensures that the needle bearings inside the caps do not fall out of place.

Turn the clamp around 180 degrees and position the anvil on the second bearing cap. Hand-tighten the forcing screw until the other side of the C-clamp is solidly against the yoke. Press the second bearing cap into the other hole in the yoke by turning the forcing screw until the groove for the snap ring retainer is visible, ensuring that the solid center of the U-joint does not come out of either bearing cap. Repeat for the other bearing caps. Reinstall the snap rings.

How to Make Denso Shims

The accelerator pedals in Toyota automobiles either come from Denso or CTS manufacturers. The CTS accelerator pedal has a demonstrable tendency to stick because of a friction arm design. Shims are a necessary, but temporary, modification that brings the pedals closer to the quality found in a Denso accelerator. These shims can be bought and installed at Toyota dealerships. But a Denso shim also can be crafted with basic metalworking skills.

Instructions

Determine the thickness required for the shim. Locate the part number stamped near the top of the accelerator pedals neck. A chart in the accelerator module recall documentation indicates the shims required thickness based upon this part number. This value ranges from 0.055 inches (1.4 mm) to 0.114 inches (2.9 mm). A majority of these replacements will require either a 0.070-inch (1.8 mm), 0.079-inch (2.0 mm) or 0.091-inch (2.3 mm) thickness.

Use metal cutters to cut a square shim out of steel measuring one inch (25 mm) on each side. The thickness of the shim should fall between 0.008 inches (0.2 mm) to 0.020 inches (0.5 mm) greater than the requirement outlined in Step 1.

Position the shim in a metal press so that a 0.079-inch (2 mm) lip is exposed on either side. Use the stamp to squeeze the metal until the center of the shim is the required thickness, but the lip remains at its original thickness. The result resembles a "U" shape.

How to Replace a 1993 Buick Century Fuel Pump

The Buick Century is a mid-size car manufactured by the Buick division of General Motors. The 1993 model belongs to the fifth generation of the Century, produced from 1982 to 1996. The engine in a 1993 Buick Century may be a four-cylinder 2.2L engine or a six-cylinder 3.3L engine. Both of these engines use fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump in the 1993 Buick Century attaches to the fuel tank, which you must remove in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

Loosen the filler cap of the fuel tank and raise the the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump and lower the vehicle. Start the engine and allow it to run until the engine stalls. Crank the engine for three seconds to consume any remaining fuel in the fuel lines.

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle on jack stands and drain the fuel tank. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel tank, including the ground wire under the body of the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a jack stand and remove the nuts on the fuel tanks retaining strap with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank with the jack stand and remove it from the vehicle.

Disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel pump by twisting it and pulling it off the fuel pump. Discard the fuel filter. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit and remove the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Pull the fuel pump from its mounting bracket on the fuel sending unit.

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel sender assembly between the mounting bracket and the pulsator. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel sender assembly. Place the fuel filter into position on the fuel pump and push the fuel filter until it is fully seated.

Install the fuel sending unit onto the fuel tank and connect the fuel tank. Check the fuel system for leaks and connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench.

Pages

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Instructions

Removal

Installation

You Could

Common Effects on the Engine

Effects on the Converter

Lean-Out

Safety Issues

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Monday, April 28, 2014

Instructions

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Instructions

Carburetor Draft

Carburetor Barrels

Feedback Carburetor System

Instructions

Saturday, April 26, 2014

Instructions

Friday, April 25, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Replacing Serpentine Belt

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

General Alignment Information for the 1996 Ford Mustang

Caster Angle

Camber Angle

Toe-in

Toe-out on Turns

Instructions

Monday, April 21, 2014

1999-2003 Models Recalled for UFI Filter Defect

2000 Models Recalled for Incorrect Fuel Line End Forms

1995 Models Recalled for Fuel Tank Cracks

Instructions

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Instructions

History

Todays Automotive Tools

Hand Tools

Power Tools

Automotive Tool Storage

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Condensation

Problems

Removal

Superior Tool Pro Pipe Flaring Tool

Lisle Flaring Tool Set

Great Neck Saw Pipe Flaring Tool

Bend Pak Blue Bullet Heavy Duty Pipe Bender

RIDGID Model 345 Flaring Tool 45 Degrees

Superior Tool Company Papco Style Flaring Tool

Friday, April 18, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Instructions

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Instructions

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Monday, April 14, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Instructions