Repair And Fix it

Ford introduced the Mustang in 1964 to compete with Chevrolets Corvette. The Mustang quickly became one of the most popular muscle cars ever made and went on to become an American icon. The Mustang has changed dramatically since those early years, in terms of both its appearance and its performance, but it is still one of most popular sports cars on the market.



The Mustang was redesigned in 1994 and kept that body style until it went through another major redesign in 1999, taking on a boxier, more aggressive style than the rounded-off body of the 1994 to 1998 models. In 1996, Ford put a new Borg-Warner T-45 Transmission in the Mustang, as well as a new 4.6-liter, modular engine, which is still used in the Mustang today.

General Alignment Information for the 1996 Ford Mustang

The front end of 1996 Ford Mustang has a modified McPherson strut-design with shock struts and coil springs. The rear end has a solid-axle design, and its alignment cannot be adjusted. Problems with the alignment on the rear end are more likely due to bent or damaged parts.

The front-end alignment specs are the same for all trims of the 1996 Mustang. (Reference 4)

Always consult an owners manual or a certified mechanic before attempting to perform your own automotive repairs.

Caster Angle

The limits for the caster angle for the front wheels of the 1996 Ford Mustang range from +2.65 to +4.15, with the ideal angle being +3.4 degrees.

Camber Angle

The limits for the camber angle for the front wheels of the 1996 Ford Mustang range from 1.35 to +.15 for the left wheel and 1.35 to +.15 for the right wheel, with the ideal angle being -.6 for each wheel.

Toe-in

The toe-in can range from 0 to +.24 inches.

Toe-out on Turns

On the 1996 Ford Mustang, the toe-out on turns, measured by degrees, should be 19.84 for the outer wheel and 20 for the inner wheel.

The 2000 Mustang GT uses McPherson Type struts on its front suspension. This type of strut makes up part of the cars steering assembly, with the damper acting as the upper steering pivot. If you are noticing your Mustang is riding rougher and not handling as well, the struts may be to blame. You can purchase the individual strut or an entire assembly. The individual strut is cheaper, but its easier to replace an intact assembly.

Instructions

Removal

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels with a lug wrench and raise the car with an automotive jack. Place a jack stand under the lower controls that are on each side of the car. Remove the lug nuts and both wheels.

2

Use a socket wrench to remove the center bolts from the brake caliper guide pins and pull the pins out of the caliper. Pull the caliper off the rotor and secure it out of the way with a piece of wire. Be caul not to damage the brake hose.

3

Open the hood and remove the three nuts that attach the strut assembly to the cars frame.

4

Locate the mounting bracket attached to the strut assembly that holds the brake line. Remove the nut and detach the bracket. Cars not equipped with ABS will not have this.

5

Locate the two large bolts that attach the strut to the spindle and remove the nuts with a socket wrench. You might need to hold the bolt head with another wrench to prevent it from turning. Place a large screwdriver or punch against the each bolt and tap it with a mallet to drive it out.

6

Pull the strut assembly down and out of the car.

Installation

7

Insert the new strut assembly up into place. Make sure the strut is properly aligned and that the three bolts are inserted into their holes at the top. Replace the three nuts, but do not tighten them.

8

Replace the two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. Replace the nuts and tighten them to 141 to 191 ft.-lbs. of torque with a torque wrench.

9

Replace the brake line bracket.

10

Tighten the top bolts to 25 ft.-lbs. of torque.

11

Place the brake caliper into place and insert the guide pins. Repeat the strut replacement procedure on the opposite side. Replace the wheel and lug nuts.

The oil pan in your 2003 V6 Ford Mustang is secured to the bottom of the engine block, and it holds a certain amount of oil for the lubrication system to do its job. If the pan in your Mustang becomes damaged and begins to leak oil, you need to install a new pan. You can replace the pan at home with the help of some special tools.

Instructions

Removing the Used Pan

1

Park your Mustang on level ground. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack. Position two jack stands under the frame for support. Apply the parking brake, and block the rear wheels with chocks.

2

Place a clean, large drain pan under the engine oil pan. Remove the drain plug with a wrench. Allow the oil to drain completely. Cover the pan to keep dirt off the oil for later reuse.

3

Remove the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with a wrench.

4

Detach the upper radiator shield with a ratchet and socket.

5

Slide the drain pan under the oil filter. Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench.

6

Set up engine lifting brackets and a support fixture on top of the engine compartment, and secure the engine.

7

Remove the left and right motor mounts with a ratchet and socket.

8

Take off the starter motor with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket.

9

Unfasten and lower the engine support bracket just enough to gain access to all the oil pan mounting bolts.

10

Detach the wiring harness bracket next to the oil pan. Remove the pan with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

Installing the New Oil Pan

11

Clean the engine block mating surface with a gasket scraper and solvent. Let it dry completely. Apply a light coat of silicone sealant to the oil pan gasket mating surface. Set a new pan gasket on the pan. Position the pan under the engine block. Install the pan mounting bolts, and tighten them with your fingers. Tighten the bolts alternately with a torque wrench, working toward the rear of the engine, to 44 inch-pounds (5 Nm) and then to 88 inch-pounds (10 Nm). Tighten the three bolts that hold the transmission housing bell to 33 foot-pounds (45 Nm). Make sure the pan drain plug is correctly installed.

12

Reinstall the wiring harness to the oil pan and the engine support bracket. Tighten the larger upper bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) and the smaller ones to 68 foot-pounds (90 Nm) with the torque wrench.

13

Replace the starter motor, and tighten the bolts to 18 foot-pounds (15 Nm) with the torque wrench.

14

Install the left and right motor mounts, and tighten the bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) with the torque wrench.

15

Replace the oil filter by hand. Replace the upper radiator shield with the ratchet and socket.

16

Lower your Mustang with the floor jack.

17

Connect the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with the wrench.

18

Refill the engine with oil using a small funnel.

19

Check the oil pan for leaks.

The Ford Mustang was introduced in 1964. The 1994 Ford Mustang was available in GT and Cobra trim levels. The GT variant was equipped with a 3.8-liter V-6 capable of producing 145-horsepower. The famous 5.0-liter V-8 was optional for 1994 Mustang GT, and could produce 215 horsepower. Removing or replacing the seat belt panel on the 1994 Mustang GT requires work on the body of the vehicle. This project should be carried out by someone with prior mechanical knowledge. Removing the seat belt panel involves the removal of a safety device, which should be re-installed by a professional mechanic.

Instructions

1

Open the door of the Mustang. Slide the seat as far forward as it can go, then release the back of the seat to tilt it forward. Locate and remove the two screw caps on the vertical door rail, near the door catch, using a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the two bolts beneath the caps with a ratchet and socket.

2

Push the front edge of the back seat back and release it from the clips. Pull the front lip of the seat upwards -- you may have to get in on both sides of the car and use your knee to push the seat back, to release the clips. Tilt the front of the seat up and remove the back seat from the Mustang.

3

Remove the cover from the speaker on the seat belt panel by gently prying it off with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the three Philips screws that hold the speaker to the panel. Pull the speaker out of the panel, and pull the speaker wires free from the back of the speaker, by hand. Set the speaker out of your work area.

4

Remove the 15-mm bolt from the base of the seat belt panel, using a ratchet and socket. Allow the bottom of the belt to retract through the slot in the panel. Gently pry the panel loose from the side of the Mustang, using a putty knife wrapped in a towel. Slide the putty knife along the edges until you hit a clip, then pry the panel free from that clip -- the rest of the panel is held on by multiple body clips. Pry the panel free from all of the clips, then remove the panel from the Mustang.

5

Install the panel into the car, and align the panel with the clips underneath. Gently tap the panel with the side of your fist or a rubber mallet, starting in the center-rear of the panel. Pull the bottom of the seat belt through the panel, then install the seat belt mounting bolt in the floor, by hand. Turn the bolt a couple of threads to temporarily hold the belt in place.

6

Tap the edges of the panel to install the panel on the rest of the body clips. Tighten the seat belt mounting bolt back into the bottom of the seat deck, using a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and socket. Tighten the bolt between 25 and 34 foot-pounds. Install the speaker wires back onto the rear speaker. Insert the speaker into the panel and tighten the screws snug with a Phillips screwdriver -- no torque is needed on the speaker screws; adding torque can crack the panel.

7

Install the rear side of the back seat under the vertical seat cushion. Push the front edge of the seat back and down to clip it into the floor of the car -- you may have to enter both sides of the vehicle and use your knee to push the seat back enough to engage the clips. Lift up on the front lip of the seat with your fingers to make sure that you have the seat clipped in. Repeat this step until both sides of the back seat are securely fastened.

8

Install the two screws into the panel near the door catch, on the vertical door jamb. Tighten the screws snug with a ratchet and socket. Install the screw caps.

If the auto transmission cooler lines are leaking in your Ford Mustang, you will need to replace them with new lines. Your transmission cooler lines are hoses running from your Ford Mustangs transmission to the radiator. These hoses are used to transport hot transmission fluid to the radiator. Once the fluid gets to the radiator it will be cooled down for recirculation throughout the engine. If your cooler lines are leaking, it will ultimately result in a low level of transmission fluid. Insufficient levels can cause severe engine damage due to overheating and grinding gears. Plan on about one hour of time to repair these lines.

Instructions

1

Move the car to a level surface. Jack it up onto two jack stands. Allow for at least 30 minutes for the engine to cool before going underneath the vehicle.

2

Find the transmission drain pan underneath the vehicle. This large metal pan will be surrounded by bolts. Position your collection bucket below the drain pan. Unscrew the drain bolt in the middle of the drain pan using the socket wrench. Allow the drain pan to empty for 10 to 15 minutes. Screw the drain bolt back into the center of the drain pan.

3

Identify the transmission cooler lines, which run from the transmission to the bottom of the radiator. Determine the number of lines your car has, typically one or two. Utilize a flare nut wrench to remove the nuts connecting the hoses to the transmission and the radiator.

4

Replace all old lines with new hoses. Utilize the same nuts to reattach the lines to the vehicle.

5

Open the hood and find the transmission dipstick. Remove and put a funnel into the tube. Fill with the proper amount of transmission fluid as indicated in the owners manual. Remove the funnel and replace the dipstick before closing the hood.

Ford released the Mustang late in the 1964 model year. The 1965 model year brought about the elimination of the 260-cubic-inch V-8 engine in favor of the 289-cubic-inch V-8, which had 36 more horsepower. The 1966 model year brought few changes to the Mustang. The most famous change was the addition of the "floating horse" to the grille. Replacing the steering wheel on 1995 and 1966 Mustang is a fairly straightforward process.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, using a combination wrench.

2

Rotate the horn button assembly -- horn button and three chrome arms in the center of the steering wheel -- counterclockwise to unlock it and pull the button assembly from the steering wheel. Make certain to catch the horn spring if it pops out.

3

Remove the steering wheel retaining nut, using a ratchet and a 15/16-inch socket.

4

Draw a matchmark line on the steering wheel and the shaft it mounts onto, using white marking paint. This allows for correct alignment of the steering wheel when reinstalling it.

5

Install a steering wheel puller on the steering wheel and use the puller to free the steering wheel from the column. The exact instruction for the use of the steering wheel puller depends on the type of puller, so refer to the pullers instruction for specific details.

6

Pull the steering wheel off the column slowly, as to not disturb any components in the steering column. Remove the steering wheel puller once the steering wheel is off the column.

7

Draw a matchmark line on the new steering wheel, if applicable, as closely to the line on the old steering wheel as possible.

8

Position the steering wheel so the lines match, and push the steering wheel onto the shaft. Tighten the steering wheel retaining nut to 20 to 30 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and a 15/16-inch socket.

9

Set the horn spring behind the horn button. Set the horn button assembly back on the center of the steering wheel and rotate it clockwise to lock it in place.

10

Reinstall the negative battery cable and tighten it to 11 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.