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Showing posts with label oil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label oil. Show all posts

Friday, April 11, 2014

How do I Replace a 2003 V6 Mustang Oil Pan

The oil pan in your 2003 V6 Ford Mustang is secured to the bottom of the engine block, and it holds a certain amount of oil for the lubrication system to do its job. If the pan in your Mustang becomes damaged and begins to leak oil, you need to install a new pan. You can replace the pan at home with the help of some special tools.

Instructions

Removing the Used Pan

    1

    Park your Mustang on level ground. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack. Position two jack stands under the frame for support. Apply the parking brake, and block the rear wheels with chocks.

    2

    Place a clean, large drain pan under the engine oil pan. Remove the drain plug with a wrench. Allow the oil to drain completely. Cover the pan to keep dirt off the oil for later reuse.

    3

    Remove the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with a wrench.

    4

    Detach the upper radiator shield with a ratchet and socket.

    5

    Slide the drain pan under the oil filter. Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench.

    6

    Set up engine lifting brackets and a support fixture on top of the engine compartment, and secure the engine.

    7

    Remove the left and right motor mounts with a ratchet and socket.

    8

    Take off the starter motor with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket.

    9

    Unfasten and lower the engine support bracket just enough to gain access to all the oil pan mounting bolts.

    10

    Detach the wiring harness bracket next to the oil pan. Remove the pan with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

Installing the New Oil Pan

    11

    Clean the engine block mating surface with a gasket scraper and solvent. Let it dry completely. Apply a light coat of silicone sealant to the oil pan gasket mating surface. Set a new pan gasket on the pan. Position the pan under the engine block. Install the pan mounting bolts, and tighten them with your fingers. Tighten the bolts alternately with a torque wrench, working toward the rear of the engine, to 44 inch-pounds (5 Nm) and then to 88 inch-pounds (10 Nm). Tighten the three bolts that hold the transmission housing bell to 33 foot-pounds (45 Nm). Make sure the pan drain plug is correctly installed.

    12

    Reinstall the wiring harness to the oil pan and the engine support bracket. Tighten the larger upper bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) and the smaller ones to 68 foot-pounds (90 Nm) with the torque wrench.

    13

    Replace the starter motor, and tighten the bolts to 18 foot-pounds (15 Nm) with the torque wrench.

    14

    Install the left and right motor mounts, and tighten the bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) with the torque wrench.

    15

    Replace the oil filter by hand. Replace the upper radiator shield with the ratchet and socket.

    16

    Lower your Mustang with the floor jack.

    17

    Connect the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with the wrench.

    18

    Refill the engine with oil using a small funnel.

    19

    Check the oil pan for leaks.

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Sunday, April 6, 2014

The Location of the Oil Pan Sensor in a 1990 Mazda MPV

The oil pan or oil level sensor in your Mazda MPV monitors the amount of oil in the oil pan. The sensor has an electrical connection that enables it to communicate with the PCM (power control module). When the oil level reaches or falls beneath the sensor, it illuminates the oil light in your MPVs dash cluster. Damage to the oil level sensor most often results from electrical failure. You can located and replace the oil pan sensor on your 1990 Mazda MPV right at home. The job should take you approximately 30 minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Place a wheel block firmly into position behind both of your MPVs rear tires.

    2

    Apply the emergency brake and raise the front end of your vehicle with a hydraulic jack. The bottom of both of the front tires should visibly measure no more than 8 inches from the ground.

    3

    Set a jack stand behind the front tires underneath your MPVs frame rail. Lift the support arms on both jack stands to 85 percent of the height of the hydraulic jack.

    4

    Lower the hydraulic jack slowly while you monitor both of the jack stands. When you see that your MPV securely rests on the support arms of the jack stands, stop lowering the hydraulic jack. Do not completely remove or lower the hydraulic jack. Leave it in its position for extra support.

    5

    Slide under your Mazda MPV and locate its oil pan. The oil pan sits at the lower, rear of the engine. It looks like a black, metal rectangle and has 20 small bolts around its upper lip. The oil pan also has a large bolt at the bottom of it used to drain the oil.

    6

    Locate the oil pan sensor on the lower side of your oil pan. You will not be able to see the sensors length but you should see the wiring harness connected to the top of it. On some models of the 1990 Mazda MPV, the sensor mounts just above the oil draining bolt. On other models, the sensor mounts on the opposite side of the oil pan across from the oil draining bolt.

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Saturday, April 5, 2014

1979 Honda XL 500 Oil Capacity

1979 Honda XL 500 Oil Capacity

The Honda XL 500s was in production for 1979 through 1981. A good motorcycle, it boasts 65 mpg fuel economy with top speeds around 146 kilometers per hour. Changing the oil in the vehicle is simple and has two options for capacities.

Without Filter

    The oil capacity for the XL500s without a filter change is 1.3 liters of a recommended SAE 10W-40 oil.

With Filter Change

    With a filter change, the capacity increases to 1.5 liters of the same oil weight.

Recommendations

    Change the oil frequently, as the motorcycles intended use is off-road. Off-road vehicles gather more dust and debris into the engine compartment, which poses a hazard to the operation of the engine. While draining out the oil and not replacing the filter is a quick and easy option, you should change the filter each time to prolong the life of your engine.

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Thursday, April 3, 2014

My Power Steering Oil Is Leaking

When a car is leaking power steering fluid, the leak needs to be found and repaired in order to keep the system working properly. Power steering fluid leaks can allow moisture and other contaminants into the system, which can cause further damage.

Leaking Seals

    One of the most common sources of leaks in a power steering system is old seals that have dried out and shrunk. Power steering stop leak additives are designed to soften and swell older seals, causing them to seal the leak. These additives are inexpensive and easy to use to correct minor leaks.

Lines and Hoses

    Power steering lines and hoses carry pressurized power steering fluid from the power steering pump to the steering rack. The lines and hoses can become damaged and cause a leak. Car owners should inspect these caully looking for splits, cracks, and kinks. Lines or hoses that are leaking should be replaced.

Worn Parts

    The power steering pump and other parts of the power steering system can become worn or damaged and cause leaks. To identify the leak, wipe clean the power steering system, then observe it while a helper starts the motor and turns the wheels. These leaks will require the replacement of the defective part.

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Sunday, March 30, 2014

How to Mount Harley Oil Coolers

How to Mount Harley Oil Coolers

A half dozen independent parts suppliers as well as Harley sell oil coolers for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The devices help keep the motorcycles air-cooled engine from overheating, especially for bikes that are improperly tuned, ridden long distances or are ridden in very hot climates . All these devices mount on one or both down tubes on the front of the bike. Heat radiates from the oil to the front of an oil cooler where it is dissipated by the wind. Oil coolers add about a quart to the engines oil capacity.

Instructions

    1

    Drain the oil from the crankcase into a pan as described in the owners manual for the motorcycle. Oil drains from most Harleys through a crankcase plug which you remove with a socket and socket wrench. A few models drain through a hose after loosening a hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and hand removing a metal plug.

    2

    Loosen the oil filter using an oil filter wrench. Remove the oil filter by hand and drain the oil in the filter into a pan. Replace the crankcase plug or reseal the drain hose.

    3

    Clean up all spilled oil with disposable rags. Properly dispose of the used motor oil and filter.

    4

    Loosen the oil pump hose fitting near the exhaust pipes with a box wrench. Unfasten the oil feed hose from the oil pump by hand. Unscrew the feed hose fitting from the crankcase and discard the hose.

    5

    Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant or equivalent to the two line fitting included with your oil cooler. Hand tighten the fitting to the crankcase and oil pump. Tighten the fitting to 60 inch pounds with a torque wrench.

    6

    Install the cooler return hose included with your oil cooler to the crankcase fitting by hand. Install the cooler supply hose for your oil cooler to the oil pump fitting by hand.

    7

    Unclip the clutch cable and wire harness from the left down tube. Remove the clips with pliers and discard. Attach the oil cooler clamps that came with your cooler to approximately the same spot on the down tube.

    8

    Attach but do not tighten the oil cooler to the cooler clamps with the Allen bolts and nuts in your oil cooler kit. Attach the return line to the right most fitting on the bottom of the oil cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver.

    9

    Attach the oil feed line to the left most fitting on the bottom of the cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver. Tighten both hose clamps.

    10

    Turn the oil cooler so it faces forward. Check for binds or crimps in the hoses. Tighten the cooler clamps to the down tube to 32 inch pounds of torque.

    11

    Clip the wiring harness and clutch cable into the oil cooler clamps.

    12

    Unscrew the cooler supply hose from the oil pump. Screw the return hose to crankcase and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

    13

    Screw the cooler supply line to the oil pump and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

    14

    Clip the oil cooler lines with the hardware in your oil cooler kit. Hand tighten a new oil filter to the filter mounting stud. Add the factory recommended amount of oil to your oil tank.

    15

    Examine the dipstick to and add additional small amounts of oil until the dipstick reads full. Start the motorcycle in neutral and check for oil leaks. Turn off the engine when the cooler becomes warm to the touch.

    16

    Re-tighten all fasteners to the specifications in your oil cleaner kit instructions when the engine has cooled. Reread the dip stick and add oil as indicated.

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Saturday, March 1, 2014

Why Is the Boron Additive in Engine Oil

A boron-based additive makes motor oil more slippery, according to the Argonne National Laboratory. Boric acid particles can reduce friction between engine parts in an automobile and thus reduce metal wear.

History

    In 1991, scientist Ali Erdemir discovered that boric acid could make surfaces slicker than Teflon. He also found that reducing the boric acid to nanoparticles enhanced this quality by staying in suspension in motor oil rather than separating.

Fuel Savings

    Reducing friction reduces the amount of energy lost as heat and results in up to a 5 percent decrease in fuel consumption. Furthermore, boric acid is cheap to make and is neither a hazardous or toxic material.

Further Developments

    Some commercial motor oils with boron-derived nanoparticles are available. Erdemir expects such particles will have wider applications in other industries, including medicine, aviation and air conditioning.

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Tuesday, February 11, 2014

How to Install an Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge

Electric oil pressure gauges are easy for a DIY-mechanic to install, whether replacing a faulty oil pressure gauge, or a custom, after-market look is desired. Oil pressure gauges are designed to inform the driver when the oil falls below a safe operating level, or when the oil pressure is too high. Driving a vehicle without an oil pressure gauge can lead to catastrophic engine failure. Most oil pressure gauges come with mounting panels and the necessary installation hardware. The necessary hardware can be purchased from an auto parts dealer, if not included with the oil pressure gauge.

Instructions

    1

    Choose a suitable location to mount the oil pressure gauge; mount the gauge so it is easily viewed while driving. Common mounting locations for aftermarket oil pressure gauges include under the dash, on top of the dash, or set into the dashboard.

    2

    Mount the gauge panel to the dash with a screwdriver and screws provided in the kit; set the gauge aside. This makes it easier to connect the wires. If mounting the gauge in the dash, drill a hole in the dash 1/8-inch larger in diameter than the size of the gauge.

    3

    Remove the oil drain plug from the oil pan with a wrench and drain the old oil into a oil catch pan. This is an opportune time to change the oil filter as well.

    4

    Remove the old oil pressure sending unit with a ratchet and socket; the oil pressure sending unit is shaped like a cylinder and is usually located near the oil filter. Refer to the new oil pressure sending unit in the oil pressure gauge kit to help you identify the part.

    5

    Connect the signal wire to the sending unit and run it through a grommet in the firewall in close proximity to the gauge. Run the wire through the gauge panel hole, or the pre-drilled hole in the dashboard, allowing extra wire for easy connecting.

    6

    Connect the signal wire to the post on the back of the gauge. The gauge posts are marked for correct wire installation.

    7

    Run a power supply wire from a switched 12-volt power supply, such as the cigarette lighter, dome light, radio, or fuel pump, to the power post on the gauge. The power supply must be switched to operate on and off with the ignition.

    8

    Run a ground wire from the vehicle chassis to the ground post on the gauge; a poor ground can result in an inoperable gauge or false reading. Use an existing grommet in the firewall, or drill a hole in the body of the vehicle, and route the wire to the chassis or frame.

    9

    Mount the gauge into the gauge panel, or the hole in the dash, with the supplied mounting hardware in the kit.

    10

    Install the oil pan drain plug and fill the engine with oil.

    11

    Start the engine to check the operation of the gauge.

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Friday, February 7, 2014

How to Reset the Engine Oil Light on a 2006 Chevy

The On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD) in a 2006 Chevy has a maintenance light that turns on when your vehicle is ready for an oil change. You need to change the oil and manually reset the light. All you need to reset and turn off the light is a few moments of your time and your ignition key. Dont attempt to reset the light before you change the oil, as the computer wont be able to keep track of when your next oil change is due.

Instructions

    1

    Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "Run", but dont start the engine.

    2

    Push down on the accelerator three times within five seconds. Make sure you press the pedal all the way to the floor each time. Examine the instrument cluster to see if the engine oil light is flashing. Let it flash until it stops, probably in about ten seconds.

    3

    Turn off the vehicle and remove the key. Wait a minute, and then put the key back in the ignition and start the engine. Verify that the engine oil light has turned off. If it hasnt, repeat the process. You may have to press down harder and faster on the pedal.

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Thursday, December 12, 2013

Where Is the Oil Sending Unit on a 2004 350Z

The oil sending unit on a Nissan 350Z coupe is an integral part of the engines lubrication system. This unit is attached to the front-right side of the engine block, just below the alternator. The oil filter, oil pan, and lower engine compartment are protected by a special undercover thats attached to the frame with metric steel bolts. The vehicle must be lifted, and the cover must be removed in order to access the oil filter and oil sending unit.

Instructions

    1

    Shut off the engine, chock the rear wheels, and apply the parking brake.

    2

    Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it with two jack stands; one under each side of the front frame. Check to make sure that the stands are firmly supporting the vehicle.

    3

    Slide under the vehicle on a mechanics creeper and remove the bolts holding the engine undercover to the frame with a metric socket and a ratchet.

    4

    Shine a work light up on the right side of the engine block, just below the alternator. The oil filter is attached to the oil sending unit.

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Saturday, December 7, 2013

What Weight of Oil Is Best for a Four Cylinder Car During the Winter

What Weight of Oil Is Best for a Four Cylinder Car During the Winter?

The location of the vehicle in winter will affect the type of oil chosen during colder months. Hawaii, for example, stays relatively warm all year and therefore there is less need to change oil weight with the season. Consulting the owners manual for the specific vehicle will reveal what the manufacturer recommends (for instance, the owners manual for a 2001 Honda Civic recommends using 5W-20 oil year-round, but 5W-30 is acceptable if 5W-20 is not available).

Numbers and Letters on Oil

    The numbers on motor oil show the oils viscosity rating and range from zero to 50. The oils weight is the "viscosity index" on a scale up to 100 degrees Celsius. The lower number, often followed by a W for "winter", corresponds to the oils ease of movement during colder temperatures. The higher numbers correspond the the oils thickness and ability to maintain that thickness even at higher temperatures. Numbers such as 5W-30 have a wide range, from below -30 degrees to over 100 degrees.

Age of the Vehicle

    Older vehicles, whose engines have high mileage, are often recommended to use or switch to an oil that is thicker. This will help limit the noise produced by older engines, as well as reducing the overall oil-consumption by the vehicle and prolong its life. The improved lubrication of the engine helps protect it from wear due to long-time use and age.

Regional Differences

    Many newer vehicles, less than 20 years old for example, are recommended by manufacturers to use one type of oil year-round, such as the 5W-20 in a 2001 Honda Civic. If the location, however, suffers extremely cold winters (temperatures below -30 degrees Celsius, for instance) local auto parts stores and mechanics will have regionally-appropriate recommendations for oil weights. Not all manufacturers will account for such temperature extremes in the owners manuals so consulting local experts will prove helpful.

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Friday, November 29, 2013

Substitutes for Outboard Tilt Trim Oil

Substitutes for Outboard Tilt Trim Oil

Outboard tilt-trim oil provides rust protection for engines in the marine industry. For long periods of time, marine engines function under high loads and rotations per minute (RPMs), which causes automotive oils to break down and lose viscosity or ease of flow. For this reason, marine manufacturers produce manuals for owners of outboard motors which recommend specific oil types -- automotive oil with SAE 30 or SAE 10W30 specification, transmission fluid type F, Dextron Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) or power tilt trim fluid by sayaC company. sayaC is a manufacturer of marine engine manifolds, parts and gaskets.

SAE 10W30 Automotive Oil

    A substitute for outboard tilt-trim oil is automotive oil with SAE 10W30 specification. For example, it is recommended that you use SAE 10W30 oil in older Mercruiser brand trim pumps. Amsoil brand SAE 10W-30 Formula Four-Stroke Synthetic Motor Oil can satisfy warranty requirements of four-stroke outboard motor manufacturers such as Bombardier/BRP, Evinrude, Honda, Johnson, Mercury, Nissan, Suzuki, Tohatsu and Yamaha. Use SAE 10W30 ouboard motor oil whenever an owners manual specifies SAE 5W30, 10W30 or straight SAE 30. Mobil 1 brand 10W30 is also another option.

Transmission Fluid Type F

    Transmission fluid type F is a substitute that can be used for outboard motor tilt-and-trim oil. Automatic transmission fluid has a high amount of detergent in it, so be sure to check your owners manual.

Dextron ATF

    Dextron ATF is a good substitute for outboard tilt and trim oil, especially since the tilt-trim unit is a hydraulic system. As a substitute, Penzoil company has a marine tilt-and-trim hydraulic fluid that can be used for power steering and tilt-and-trim systems. In addition, Penzoil has a marine outboard gear lube, though it recommends Penzoil ATF for Johnson and Evinrude electric shift models for 1972 and earlier and sayaC Stern Drive models dated before 1977.

SAE 5W or 10W

    Use SAE5W or SAE10W instead of quicksilver fluid for Mercruiser trim pumps. Other substitutes to quicksilver include chainsaw oil and sewing machine oil. Do not use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) for Mercruiser trim pumps, because the material used for the seals on its trim pump system is not compatible with either ATF or brake fluid.

Old Remedies

    In the 1970s, 30 weight nondetergent motor oil was used as a substitute for outboard motor tilt-and-trim oil.

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Friday, November 22, 2013

What Weight Engine Oil Does a VW VR6 Use

Replacing the engine oil in your Volkswagen VR6 with the appropriate engine oil weight is important to maintain proper engine function. The type of oil you use depends on the weather. Oil that functions well in southern Texas may not be appropriate for winters in New England. By taking into account the temperature and information from your owners manual, you can determine the best oil to use in your car.

Temperature Considerations

    Temperature should be a primary consideration when choosing engine oil. If you are going to operate your car at temperatures below 15 degrees Fahrenheit, choose an engine oil with a first weight of 10 or lower (e.g. 10W30, 10W40). If you are going to operate your engine above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, use an engine oil in which the second number is at least 50 (e.g. 10W50, 20W50).

Manufacturer Recommendations

    VW recommends engine oil meeting Volkswagens "502.00" engine oil standard. Many oils meet the quality standards for Volkswagens 502.00 standard.

Approved Oils

    Before purchasing oil, check the bottle or manufacturers website to make sure the oil conforms to Volkswagens standard. If you have any questions, contact your local Volkswagen dealer.

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Friday, November 15, 2013

How to Replace the Oil Sending Unit on a 1996 Grand Cherokee

Located on the passengers side of the engine block, the oil pressure sensor in your 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee converts engine oil pressure to milliamps and sends this information to the engine management computer. Whether your Jeep has a 4.0-liter inline six cylinder or a 5.2-liter v-8, the sensor sits in nearly the same place on the engine block. Sensor failures can exhibit as erratic readings at the oil pressure gauge on the instrument panel or a low pressure indicator light flashing on and off randomly. You can replace the sensor in minutes, and a new sensor is available from Jeep or through a parts store.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable end at the battery. Loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench then separate the cable from the battery terminal. Isolate the cable end away from the battery while you work.

    2

    Locate the oil pressure sensor on the passenger side of the engine, near the oil filter housing. The sensor threads into the engine block and has an electrical connector on the top of it with a single wire coming off it.

    3

    Release the locking tab on the electrical connector then pull the connector off the sensor and lay it aside. Slide a deep socket over the sensor, connect a ratchet to it and rotate the sensor counterclockwise until it is free of the engine block. Discard the old sensor.

    4

    Position the new sensor in the engine block, rotating it clockwise by hand until it is snug. Place the socket and ratchet on the sensor then carefully turn it another 1/4-turn to secure it.

    5

    Push the electrical connector on to the new sensor until the locking tab engages. Move back to the battery and position the negative battery cable end onto the battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench then close the hood.

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Monday, November 11, 2013

How to Cut Oil Grooves in a Bearing

How to Cut Oil Grooves in a Bearing

Cutting grooves into a bearing can improve performance by increasing the surface area that is in direct contact with the lubricant. There are many different ways to do this, but it is always a good idea, if possible, to check with the manufacturer first. Some bearings do not work as well without smooth surfaces.

Instructions

    1

    Use a professionally designed groove cutter if you are working on complicated automotive bearings. These machines arent cheap, but they ensure a proper cut each time. You can also take your parts to a shop that has a groove cutting machine and have it done there.

    2

    Choose what type of groove is best for the bearing you are working on. Circumferential groove bearings, in which the groove goes around the entire bearing, are best for connecting rod bearings because they distribute lubricant very evenly. Multiple groove bearings, in which the grooves are simply cut in a noncircular pattern, are used to provide a more general increase in lubrication.

    3

    Put the bearing securely in a shop vice if you are cutting a circumferential groove and you do not have specialized equipment for doing so. Cut carefully around it with a grinding tool. This wont be nearly as perfect as a store-bought circumferential bearing, but may work better than the original.

    4

    Place the bearing securely in the vise if you are cutting multiple grooves. Make four straight grooves down the sides of the bearing. You can cut more or less depending on how much surface area you want the lubricant to contact.

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Monday, October 28, 2013

How to Remove the Oil Filter in a 2001 Dakota

How to Remove the Oil Filter in a 2001 Dakota

Introduced in 1987, the 2001 Dodge Dakota came equipped with a 2.5-liter, in-line, four-cylinder engine or a 3.9-liter V-6 engine, as factory standard engines. A 4.7-liter V-8 and 5.9-liter V-8 were optional equipment for the 2001 Dakota. Access the oil filter on the Dakota from beneath the truck. Remove and replace the oil filter during oil changes as oil filters can fail if left on a vehicle for too long. Change the oil and oil filter in the 2001 Dakota every three months or 3,000 miles.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Dakota, and let the engine cool for no less than 20 minutes. Raise the front of the Dakota by driving it onto vehicle ramps. Raise the front of the Dakota with a 1-ton jack if the ramps are not available. Place jack stands beneath the front lower subframe, just inside the bottom of either wheel well. Lower the jack to rest the Dakota onto the jack stands. Do not attempt this project with the vehicle resting on a jack.

    2

    Lie beneath the front bumper of the Dakota, and slide your body into position to access the oil filter. Set a drain pan beneath the location of the oil filter, with the filter aligned as close to the center of the pan as possible.

    3

    Install an oil filter claw onto the end of the 6-inch extension. Push the claw up and onto the oil filter, twisting the claw clockwise slightly to expand the claw around your filter. Snap the ratchet onto the other end of your extension, once you have the claw set on the filter. Turn the entire assembly counterclockwise, until the oil filter loosens. Remove the ratchet and claw from the filter, and remove the filter by hand the rest of the way. Ensure that your face and body are clear of the oil pan, to avoid draining oil.

    4

    Set the old oil filter into the drain pan. Lubricate the O-ring gasket on the new oil filter, by dipping your finger into a fresh quart of oil, then rubbing oil onto the new gasket. This helps the initial seal of the new gasket, and eliminates the chances of the gasket drying out prior to your next oil change.

    5

    Visually inspect the oil filter mounting area, to ensure the old filter gasket is not stuck to the engine. Hold the new oil against the protruding threaded rod on the engines mounting surface. Spin the oil filter on by hand, ensuring proper threading of the new filter. Tighten the oil filter by hand only, applying as much force as possible. Do not use tools to tighten any oil filter, as you may damage the gasket with too much torque pressure, or damage the oil filter itself. The maximum torque specification for the filter is 25 foot-pounds.

    6

    Step to the drivers side of the Dakota, and start the engine of the truck. If you only removed and replaced the oil filter, then you only will have lost 1/2-quart of oil at most. Look beneath the truck while it is still elevated, to ensure that the new oil filter is not leaking. If you hear a hissing or dripping noise from the truck, shut the truck off immediately, and recheck your oil filter for leaks. Shut the truck off after 30 seconds if you do not see any leaks.

    7

    Remove the drain pan from beneath the truck. Drive the truck off the vehicle ramps. Raise the truck off the jack stands with a jack, if you used them instead. Remove the jack stands and lower the truck to the ground.

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Saturday, October 12, 2013

How to Install a Buick Park Avenue Oil Pump

The Park Avenue is a full-size sedan that was manufactured by the Buick division of General Motors from 1990 to 2005. The Park Avenue has a 6-cylinder 3.8-liter engine with sequential fuel injection. The oil pump of a late-model Buick Park Avenue is mounted to the engine under the front cover. The installation of the oil pump in this vehicle requires you to remove additional components to access the oil pump.

Instructions

    1

    Place a wooden plank on a floor jack as a cushion and support the engine with the floor jack. Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting accidentally.

    2

    Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise to remove the drive belts. Disconnect the tensioner assembly from the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the pulley and bracket for the drive belt idler.

    3

    Remove the axis mount bracket with a socket wrench if this is necessary to access the front cover for the engine. Remove the front cover and disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil filter adapter. Disconnect the oil filter adapter assembly, including the spring and pressure regulator valve. Discard the gasket for the oil filter.

    4

    Disconnect the mounting screws for the cover of the oil pump with a socket wrench. Remove the inner and outer gears from the oil pump housing.

    5

    Coat the gears for the oil pump with petroleum jelly and insert them into the oil pump housing. Pack the remaining space in the housing with petroleum jelly.

    6

    Fasten the oil pump cover and tighten its mounting screws to 97 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the oil filter adapter assembly with a new gasket and tighten its mounting bolts to 11 foot-pounds. Attach the front engine cover and the tensioner assembly with a socket wrench. Connect the pulley and bracket for the drive belt idler if you removed it earlier. Attach the drive belts and the torque axis mount bracket.

    7

    Connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack supporting the engine. Fill the engine oil to the proper level if necessary and start the engine. Check and fix any oil leaks.

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Sunday, October 6, 2013

How to Fix an Oil Cooler in a Ford Mustang

How to Fix an Oil Cooler in a Ford Mustang

If the auto transmission cooler lines are leaking in your Ford Mustang, you will need to replace them with new lines. Your transmission cooler lines are hoses running from your Ford Mustangs transmission to the radiator. These hoses are used to transport hot transmission fluid to the radiator. Once the fluid gets to the radiator it will be cooled down for recirculation throughout the engine. If your cooler lines are leaking, it will ultimately result in a low level of transmission fluid. Insufficient levels can cause severe engine damage due to overheating and grinding gears. Plan on about one hour of time to repair these lines.

Instructions

    1

    Move the car to a level surface. Jack it up onto two jack stands. Allow for at least 30 minutes for the engine to cool before going underneath the vehicle.

    2

    Find the transmission drain pan underneath the vehicle. This large metal pan will be surrounded by bolts. Position your collection bucket below the drain pan. Unscrew the drain bolt in the middle of the drain pan using the socket wrench. Allow the drain pan to empty for 10 to 15 minutes. Screw the drain bolt back into the center of the drain pan.

    3

    Identify the transmission cooler lines, which run from the transmission to the bottom of the radiator. Determine the number of lines your car has, typically one or two. Utilize a flare nut wrench to remove the nuts connecting the hoses to the transmission and the radiator.

    4

    Replace all old lines with new hoses. Utilize the same nuts to reattach the lines to the vehicle.

    5

    Open the hood and find the transmission dipstick. Remove and put a funnel into the tube. Fill with the proper amount of transmission fluid as indicated in the owners manual. Remove the funnel and replace the dipstick before closing the hood.

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Sunday, September 29, 2013

How to Test Electric Oil Pressure Gauges

Oil pressure in an engine is critical to proper operation and to avoiding irreparable damage to internal engine parts. Electric oil pressure gauges sense the oil pressure inside the engine, then transmit the pressure information to the gauge inside the vehicle. A malfunctioning oil pressure sensor may send erroneous information to the gauge. Test the sensor before you replace the gauge. The sensor screws into the engine block, which connects to the gauge by a wire that is routed through the firewall to the gauge on the dashboard.

Instructions

    1

    Find the oil pressure specification for your model vehicle and engine size in your owners manual or a vehicle service manual for your car. Find the voltage and resistance parameters for the oil pressure sensing unit in your vehicles service manual.

    2

    Disconnect the wires that attach to the oil pressure sensing unit. Its usually located on the bottom of the engine near the oil filter. Attach the multimeter that leads to the sensor and then start the vehicle. Check the multimeter and note the voltage and resistance reported by the multimeter.

    3

    Turn off the vehicle and disconnect the multimeter. Connect the potentiometer to the oil pressure sensing unit by connecting one lead to the blue and white wire on the sensor and the other potentiometer connection to the ground connection on the frame.

    4

    Set the potentiometer to the resistance (in ohms) as specified by your owners or service manual. Start the vehicle. Check the reading on the potentiometer and note the resistance. Turn off the vehicle, disconnect the potentiometer and reconnect the leads to the oil pressure sensor.

    5

    Replace an oil pressure sending unit that returns values outside the acceptable range for your model vehicle. Replace the electronic oil pressure gauge if the sending unit tested within acceptable ranges.

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Saturday, September 21, 2013

How to Troubleshoot High PSI in the Oil Tank on a Harley

How to Troubleshoot High PSI in the Oil Tank on a Harley

There are four likely causes that an oil gauge on a Harley might indicate high oil pressure. Two of the causes are literally connected to the oil tank. In order of probability from most to least, your oil pressure gauge is faulty or the electrical connection is loose; your crankcase vent line is clogged; either your oil return or your oil feeder line is kinked or blocked; or finally, your oil tank is overfilled. Work the problem in a few steps.

Instructions

    1

    Drain the oil from your oil tank into a drain pan by loosening the hose clamp on you drain line with a screwdriver and removing the oil drain plug with a pair of pliers. Replace the plug and drain line after the oil drains from the oil tank.

    2

    Remove the oil filter from the front of your bike with an oil filter wrench. Drain the oil from the filter into the drain pan.

    3

    Discard the old oil filter and install a new filter hand tight onto the oil filter stud.

    4

    Follow the wires from your oil pressure gauge top the crankcase and check for loose connections or an obviously defective wire.

    5

    Inspect the oil feeder and oil return line from the crankcase to the oil tank. Physically remove the lines by unfastening any hose clamps with a screwdriver and any permanent fittings with an open end wrench.

    6

    Stick a wire through the length of the hoses to ensure the hoses are not clogged. Replace the two oil lines.

    7

    Follow the oil vent line from the top of the oil tank next to the return line to the crankcase. Remove the line from the crankcase with an open end wrench. Pull the line out of the oil tank with your hands.

    8

    Sick a wire through the vent line to ensure it is not clogged. Replace the vent line with an open end wrench.

    9

    Add the appropriate amount of oil, either 3 or 4 quarts, to the oil tank as specified in the owners manual for your Harley. Turn over the motorcycle for about 15 seconds.

    10

    Remove the fill plug and read the dipstick to ensure the oil level reads full. Start the motorcycle and check the oil gauge. If the gauge still indicates that your oil pressure is too high the gauge is probably defective.

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Thursday, September 19, 2013

How to Reset the Oil and Engine Light on a BMW X5 2003 Using the Ignition

How to Reset the Oil and Engine Light on a BMW X5 2003 Using the Ignition

You can reset the oil and engine lights on your 2003 BMW X5 using the ignition key. Most people think you need to take your BMW to the dealership to have your car serviced and the lights reset, but you dont. Its a simple fix you can do right in your home garage. The Check Oil and Service Engine Soon lights illuminate on the vehicles instrument panel when the OBD, or on-board diagnostics, computer reads a trouble code sent from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. Although you need to use an OBD scanner read the codes, you dont need one to reset the lights and turn them off.

Instructions

    1

    Sit in the drivers seat, close the door and fasten your seat belt.

    2

    Press the odometer button with your left thumb while simultaneously putting the key into the ignition and turning it to the "Accessory" position.

    3

    Keep pressing down on the odometer button until the light on the dashboard starts to flash and the word "Reset" appears.

    4

    Let go of the odometer button, then push it in again and hold it.

    5

    Let go of the button for the last time and look for five green lights to appear on the dash to let you know the system has been reset.

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