Repair And Fix it

The valve covers sit on the top of the cylinder heads, and removing them will allow you access to the valves, springs, rocker arms, and push rods on your 7.3-liter Powerstroke Diesel. The 1996 7.3-liter was an optional engine in the Ford F250 and F350 Super Duty series trucks. The engine is very durable and has a good torque band, allowing it to pull heavy loads with little to no stress to the engine.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Ford truck and locate the negative battery cable end on the battery terminal. Loosen the clamp bolt on the battery cable end with a wrench then remove the cable from the battery and move it aside, isolating it from the battery.

2

Locate the retaining bolts along the perimeter of the valve covers on the top of the engine. There are eight of them on each valve cover.

3

Remove the eight retaining bolts, one at a time, with a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside as you will need them later.

4

Slide a putty knife or other flat, stiff tool under the edge of the valve cover and pry the cover loose from the head. Lift the valve cover straight off the cylinder head and set it aside. Repeat the process on the second valve cover if you are removing both covers.

The taillight assembly on the Toyota Camry is a single assembly unit. The bulbs are accessible from the trunk, and the taillight assembly is removable for replacement or cleaning. If your taillight is cracked or broken, you should replace it as soon as possible. If water leaks into the taillight assembly, it can short out the bulbs and cause damage to the cars electrical system. You can buy a replacement taillight assembly from an auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Open the Camrys trunk. Pull the plastic cover off the back of the taillight assembly.

2

Remove the three nuts securing the taillight assembly with a wrench.

3

Slide the taillight assembly forward away from the rear of the car. Grasp each bulb and twist it slightly counterclockwise then pull back to remove it.

4

Remove the taillight assembly from the car once the bulbs are disconnected.

There is no time like the present for replacing that ugly, faded and probably cracked dashboard in your Buick Park Avenue. The good news is that doing so is a fairly easy job. In fact, the only difficulty will involve removing the parts that are designed to prevent dashboard removal. You will need only a couple of tools to complete the job, and before you know it the interior of your Buick Park Avenue will be good as new.

Instructions

1

Remove the edges of the trim adjacent to doors and beneath the steering wheel. The trim is what keeps the dash in place and covers all of the wiring. Wedge the flat-head screwdriver under the trim that runs alongside the windshield by the doors and pop the dash loose. Remove these trim pieces and set them aside. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen any remaining mounting bolts securing the steering wheel trim.

2

Loosen the trim along the edges near the doors and under the steering wheel. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry under the edges of the trim running down the side of the windshield near the doors and pop the trim loose. Slide the trim pieces out of the car and set aside. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the five to eight mounting bolts holding the steering wheel trim in place. Pull the trim down and discard it.

3

Grab the temperature control knobs with a pliers and give a sharp tug. Use the pliers to pry off the radio knobs as well. If you cant pry the knobs off, turn them counterclockwise, as occasionally the knobs screw into the dash.

The spline nut, also known as the axle spline nut or axle nut, is located on the threaded end of each front axle shaft. This nut holds the splined end of the axle securely inside the wheel hub. The axle nut is a 34 mm nut that is pinched in order to prevent it from loosening. Because the nut is pinched in the manufacturing process, it is not reusable. There are two types of axle nuts installed on 1999 Aleros, and both are not reusable. The first type is the older style that is black with a sheet metal cage around the nut. The new nut is a silver-colored, standard-size pinch nut. If your vehicle has the old style nut, it must be removed and replaced with the new style nut. If your vehicle has the new style nut, it must be replaced when removed with a new nut of the same style.

Instructions

Removal

1

Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Break the front lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and slide jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and make sure that its secure.

2

Remove the lug nuts completely, then remove the tire. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal. Attach a 34 mm socket to a T-handle bar and break the axle nut loose while your assistant is holding the brake pedal; this will prevent the wheel and hub from turning while you break the nut loose.

3

Remove the axle nut the rest of the way using a 1/2-inch ratchet and your 34 mm socket. Throw away the old nut; it cannot be reused.

Installation

4

Thread the new nut onto the spindle by hand, then have an assistant depress the brake pedal once again.

5

Tighten the nut to 173 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Reinstall the tire and snug the lug nuts with a lug nut wrench.

6

Lower the Alero back to the ground and torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern to 100 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

You can remove the SRS airbags from your 2002 Dodge without taking the car to a mechanic. Airbags are considered to be an essential safety element, but there are some people who are worried about rare injuries that can occur from the airbag deploying. Removing the airbags is a fairly easy procedure and only requires a couple of simple tools. Just make sure to always keep your face and body away from the front of the airbag as you remove it to prevent injury to yourself.

Instructions

1

Raise the front hood of your Dodge and loosen the retaining nuts on the battery cable clamps. Slide the clamps off of the battery terminals one at a time. Wait 30 minutes for the battery charge to drain out.

2

Consult your owners manual to find the location of the airbag fuses. Then open the fuse panel cover that can be found on the drivers-side dashboard. Remove the fuse puller and use it to remove the airbag fuses.

3

Remove the screws on the back of the steering column with a screwdriver and caully remove the airbag from the middle of the steering wheel. Cut the wires attached to it using wire cutters. Set the airbag in a safe location away from people and pets.

4

Open up the glove box and unhook the straps that hold it open. Unscrew the screws holding the glove box in place and pull the entire glove box out of the dashboard. Unbolt the airbag very caully using the socket wrench. Unhook the power cable at the rear of the airbag. Remember to keep your body and face away from the airbag. Slide the airbag out of the compartment.

5

Put the glove box back in the compartment, screw in the screws and reattach the straps. Close the glove box cover.

6

Put the airbag fuses back into their proper places within the fuse panel and close up the fuse panel cover. Reconnect the battery cables and tighten the retaining nuts.

The Ford "F" series of full-size pickups use the model number to indicate the rated carrying capacity of the vehicle. For example, an F-250 has a payload capacity of about 2500 pounds, and newer models can carry more than this. The standard engine options for the F-250 include 5.4-liter and 6.8-liter gasoline engines. These engines have two cylinder heads, each covering half of the cylinders. The procedure for removing the cylinder heads is generally the same for all F-250 trucks made since 2001 with gasoline engines.

Instructions

1

Remove the air conditioner from the vehicle to access the cylinder heads on top of the engine block. This generally requires a professional mechanic with special equipment to avoid releasing rigerant gas into the atmosphere.

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure the engine does not start accidentally. Remove the covers for the cylinder heads.

3

Remove the intake manifold from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the timing chains from their sprockets. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

4

Disconnect the two retaining bolts for the heater hose with a socket wrench. Squeeze the clamp together, and slide it down the hose to release the hose. Detach the heater hose from the engine block. Remove all additional electrical connectors and hoses needed to access the cylinder heads in your F250.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and lift the cylinder heads from the engine block. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket from the engine block. Clean all traces of the gasket from the engine block with a gasket scraper.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse is a two-door coupe or convertible, and is also sold as the Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser. It has been available in the United States since 1990, and the second generation of the Eclipse includes the 1995 through 1999 models. The timing belt is mounted on the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulley, allowing the crankshaft to drive the camshaft. The removal procedure for the crankshaft pulley in a 1997 Eclipse also requires you to lift the engine in some cases.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from starting the engine during the crankshaft pulley removal.

2

Remove the undercover for the engine with a socket wrench to gain access to the crankshaft pulley.

3

Raise the engine slightly with an engine hoist to remove some of the weight from the side engine mounts, and hold the engine in this position. Perform this step only if your 1997 Eclipse has a turbocharged engine or a 2.4-liter engine.

4

Disconnect the bracket for the engine side mount with a socket wrench to access the crankshaft pulley. Detach the accessory drive belts from the crankshaft pulley.

5

Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft.

The Chrysler Pacifica is a mid-size car that was manufactured from 2004 to 2008. You can remove the seat back from your Chrysler Pacifica from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. You only need one tool to do the job that can be purchased at a hardware or auto parts store. It will take you about 30 minutes to complete the job. The reason most people remove the backseat is to reupholster it. Sometimes, though, the floor carpet may need to be replaced or cleaned.

Instructions

1

Pull the front seats as far forward as possible. Open both rear doors. Pull up and forward on the rear drivers side front of the seat cushion in the backseat and remove it from the vehicle. Do the same for the other seat cushion.

2

Remove the nuts from both of the mounts on the backseat using a socket wrench.

3

Move the seat belt mount away from the mount on the backseat.

4

Push up on the middle part of the backseat. Pull it forward to release it from the hooks. Remove the backseat from the vehicle.

The cam sprockets in an automotive engine resemble round gears and generally have deep teeth to maintain consistent hold of the timing belt or chain, thus removing them may be a daunting task. Because of how intensive this procedure is for most vehicles, it is recommended that other service procedures be undertaken at the same time while those areas of the engine are being accessed. The most important items to service while you have access would be the timing belt (especially in an interference engine) and the water pump.

Instructions

1

Raise your vehicle and support it on jack stands, as most vehicles will require access from underneath the engine.

2

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent an electric discharge that may cause a fire.

3

Remove the accessory drive belts or serpentine belt and locate the timing covers which are directly behind them.

4

Remove the timing covers and the timing belt or chain from the vehicle according to the manufacturers instructions. As it is highly recommended to replace the timing belt, the new belt should come with instructions specific to your vehicle on safely removing the old one.

5

Grip the sprocket with the sprocket holding tool according to the instructions. If you do not have a holding tool, one can be made by inserting two bolts into a pre-drilled metal bar. The bolts should have a space between them roughly the width of the sprocket spokes and the metal bar should have enough length to provide adequate leverage against a strong torque. Once you have a tool in place to provide counter-leverage and hold the sprocket in place, remove the sprockets mounting bolt from its hub.

6

Pull the sprocket from the camshaft and repeat this procedure on the other sprocket as necessary. When reinstalling the sprockets and timing components, it is important to tighten each bolt to the manufacturers specifications with a torque wrench. If your vehicle uses a timing chain, observe the manufacturers recommendations regarding chain lubrication.

Car emblems can be installed for a variety of reasons, including dealer and factory markings. Car emblems are often used to catch prospective buyers eyes or express personal style or opinions. Emblems that have been applied to a car with black paint are no more or less difficult to remove than any other emblems. However, black paint is prone to fading, which can leave a darker spot of paint behind once the emblem is removed. Fortunately, you can minimize this effect with a little bit of extra effort.

Instructions

1

Put your heat gun on its lowest setting and apply heat to the emblem by holding the heat gun a couple of inches away from the emblem. Be caul not to get the heat gun too hot, or it may make your paint bubble under the emblem and permanently damage your cars paint. Use the heat to weaken the glue adhesive holding the emblem on. Periodically check the emblem by attempting to pry a corner of it loose with the putty knife.

2

Pry the emblem off of the vehicle with the putty knife as gently as possible.

3

Use adhesive cleaner to remove leftover glue from vehicles paint. If you do not wash the area thoroughly and make sure all the glue is gone, dirt and debris may become stuck to your paint in the area where the emblem was located, which can be particularly noticeable on a black car.

4

Wax your car, paying special attention to the area around where the emblem was located. This can help reduce the difference in paint color between the paint that has been faded by the sun and the unfaded black paint that was protected from the sun by the emblem.

The headlight switch assembly on the dash of your 2008 Dodge Dakota does more then just turn the lights on and off; do not put off replacing a faulty switch. The switch controls the interior lights, the dash lights, parking or running lights and the headlights. A faulty switch will often cause other functions to fail; if the switch fails altogether, youll find yourself with no headlights at all and unable to drive your truck. Look for replacement switches at any auto parts retailer or your local Dodge dealer.

Instructions

1

Locate the retaining screws on the instrument panel of your Dakota, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Pop the bezel off the instrument panel using a flat-blade screwdriver. Set the bezel aside for safekeeping.

2

Locate the three retaining bolts on the face of the headlight switch assembly---two on the outboard edge and one on the inboard side---then remove them using a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside for reuse during installation.

3

Slide the headlight switch assembly forward until you can reach the electrical connector on the rear of the assembly. Press the locking tab in on the connector, and separate the connector from the rear of the headlight switch. Pull the headlight switch out of the dash, and discard it.

4

Slide the new headlight switch assembly into the dash far enough to allow the electrical connector to reach it. Push the connector onto the back of the switch, ensuring that the locking tab engages completely.

5

Push the switch in place, and install the three retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet until they are just snug enough to hold the switch securely but wont crack its plastic casing.

6

Position the instrument panel bezel in place, snapping it into the retaining clips. Install the retaining screws and tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver only until they are just snug enough not hold the bezel in place without damaging it.

7

Turn on the headlight switch, and cycle the headlights through the high- and low-beam positions several times to ensure a successful repair.

The 5.0L engine is one of the most dependable and rugged engines that the Ford Motor Company has ever offered. Although it is a dependable workhorse, even the best engines parts occasionally fail. This is true of the front seal, located inside the timing cover on this particular engine. In order to replace the seal when it starts leaking, it is necessary to remove the timing cover. Although it sounds like a big job, most people with a little mechanical knowledge can do it in their own garage.

Instructions

1

Slip a drain pan beneath the radiator. Open the radiator cap Use a pair of pliers to loosen the petcock at the bottom of the radiator by turning it counterclockwise until it rotates freely. Spin the petcock counterclockwise until it is fully open, allowing the coolant to drain from the radiator.

2

Remove the bolts that connect the oil pan to the engine block by attaching a socket from a socket wrench set to any combination of ratchet wrench and extensions that are necessary to reach each bolt, and turning them counterclockwise until they are free of the engine block. Remove the oil pan.

3

Remove the crankshaft bolt by putting the correct size socket wrench on the ratchet and turning the bolt counterclockwise until it is free of the crankshaft. Slide the dampener and crankshaft pulley, which is bolted to the damper, off the end of the crankshaft.

4

Remove the bolts holding the water pump to the engine block with the ratchet wrench and the appropriate sized socket. Remove the water pump.

5

Remove the bolts attaching the timing cover of the 5.0 L engine to the engine block with the ratchet wrench, and/or extensions in the appropriate sized socket wrench. Remove the timing cover from the engine.

FLH is a venerable Harley code for a heavy duty motorcycle with big forks and a big twin engine. Subsequent letters in the code often describe marketing more than engineering. You can pull the batwing outer fairing off all Electra Glides, or FLHs, after you remove seven screws and disconnect the headlight. Removing the outer fairing allows you to access much of the front wiring harness.

Instructions

1

Pad the front fender with shop rags to protect the paint. Locate and remove the three screws on the front of the bike just below the windshield with a Torx wrench.

2

Loosen and remove the screw on each side of the fairing just outside the speakers with a Torx wrench.

3

Remove the left fairing cap screw with a Torx wrench after fully turning the handlebars to the right. Turn the handlebars fully to the left and remove the right fairing cap screw.

4

Push the top of the fairing toward the front fender and pinch the headlight wiring connector to disconnect the headlight assembly from the front wiring harness.

5

Remove the outer fairing and the headlight from the motorcycle. Remove the windshield.

Dodge Dakotas use a rack-and-pinion power steering system. This system uses a pump to drive power steering fluid to the rack-and-pinion. A pulley that runs on the accessory drive belt powers the pump. If the pulley is damaged, the pump will not move fluid into the steering system and the pulley must be replaced. In order to replace the pulley, you must first remove it from the power steering pump.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagram on the underside of your hood that depicts the drive belt routing. Use this diagram to help locate your idler pulley. This will be the lower of the two pulleys on the far right.

2

On the left-hand side of the idler pulley assembly, locate the tension adjusting bolt. Using a wrench, loosen the bolt until you can move the idler pulley assembly enough to relieve tension on the drive belt.

3

Locate the power steering pump pulley. This is the uppermost of the two pulleys on the far right, located above the idler pulley. Remove the drive belt from around the pulley.

4

Place the pulley puller on the power steering pulley. Place the arms of the puller behind the pulley and align the threaded end with the center of the pulley. Turn the nut on the shaft by hand until it is tight.

5

Place a socket and ratchet on the bolt head end of the pulley puller. Hold the ratchet in place and place a wrench on the nut you hand-tightened in Step 4. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to move the threaded shaft into the power steering pulley.

6

Continue to turn the nut until the pulley comes loose from the power steering pump. Remove the pulley from the engine compartment and turn the nut clockwise until the puller shaft comes free of the pulley.

Removing the taillight from your Chrysler Town and Country van will allow you to replace the assembly if damage has occurred to it or replace the bulbs if one has burned out. The plastic taillight assembly is held onto the rear of the van by several screws that can only be accessed by opening the lift gate on the rear of the van. Once the lift gate is open, the assembly can be removed with a single screwdriver and reinstalled the same way.

Instructions

1

Open the lift gate on the rear of your Town and Country van. Locate the two retaining screws along the inboard edge of the taillight assembly, between the housing and the lens.

2

Remove the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Grasp the taillight assembly with your hands and pull it straight back until you can access the bulb sockets on the rear of the assembly.

3

Turn the bulb sockets counterclockwise, unlocking them from the taillight assembly. Pull them straight out of the assembly and lay them aside. The taillight is now free of the van.

Coil springs are a part of the cars suspension system -- most notably on older model cars. They are a strong component, but not known for having a smooth ride. Not much more than extra large heavy duty springs, removing them to replace with new ones or do other work is a physical but not difficult task. Youll need to take care to avoid injury when compressing these springs during removal.

Instructions

1

Lift the end of the car you will be removing the coil springs from, and secure the tires on the opposite end with wheel blocks. Place the jack stands beneath the car frame.

2

Remove the tires from the working end of the vehicle and set aside. Remove the sway bar linkage and the shock absorber if there is one from one side.

3

Spray the coil spring nut and the surrounding parts with spray lubricant. Insert the coil spring compressor, and compress the coil by turning the nut on the tool. You may have to adjust the placement of the compressor so there is room for the turning screw to raise as you tighten the tool.

4

Place the floor jack beneath the lift arm, and raise just enough to take the tension off the coil spring nut. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut, and loosen the nut.

5

Hit the spindle squarely with a mallet. This may take a few tries, but you will feel the pop when the ball joint bolt comes loose. The jack will hold everything in place.

6

Slowly lower the floor jack. The coil spring may or may not slide right out as you do so. If not caully remove it. Decompress the spring very caully from the coil compressor tool.

7

Repeat for the other side, then the other wheels if the car has coils springs on all four.

Mufflers are in a precarious position. Located under a car, theyre vulnerable to bumps, rocks and road debris that can cause holes or other damage. If you have muffler problems, youll know right away because of the loud noise. Replacement is often the best option to restore your car to quiet operation. Before you can mount a new muffler, youll have to remove your old one. Fortunately, the process is not too difficult

Instructions

1

Prepare the car for muffler removal by jacking it up with a standard car jack or putting it up on car ramps. Since the muffler is located underneath the car, youll have to be able to access that area and move around well enough to do the required work.

2

Put on protective goggles before starting the actual removal work. A muffler can be rusty, and small chips can easily fly up into your eyes. Goggles will protect them from any debris that might fly around while you do the cutting and prying required to remove the muffler. You may also wish to wear work gloves to protect your hands from cuts.

3

Lubricate the muffler clamp nut with a coating of penetration oil, and apply the oil to the fittings as well. These parts tend to be dusty and dirty because of their position underneath the car, which exposes them continually to dirt. The oil will make them easier to manipulate and remove.

4

Remove the nuts that connect the muffler to the exhaust pipes. If the oil does not loosen the nuts well enough to be turned for removal, or if the muffler is welded in place, cut the connecting pipes with your hacksaw. Then, remove muffler nuts from the hanger using your impact wrench. Allow it to drop down so it can be loosened from the rear mounts.

5

Using the pry bar, complete the removal process by removing the muffler from the rubber straps that are keeping it in place. You can now take the car down from the jack or ramps.

Small paint marks are among the most common damages to automotive paint. Black marks on a white car especially stand out and can be made worse with the wrong technique. Knowing how to properly remove black marks on a white car can produce a great-looking finish without worsening the original marks.

Instructions

1

Sand the black marks with 2000 grit sandpaper and water until the black marks are gone. Keep the sanding surface moist. Dry sandpaper will damage the paint surface.

2

Wipe away any dust or debris with a clean towel.

3

Apply rubbing compound to the sanding surface.

4

Polish the rubbing compound into the sanding surface with an orbital polisher.

5

Wipe away any excess rubbing compound with a clean towel.

The blower resistor on most cars and trucks controls the speed of the blower motor by changing the voltage that reaches the motor when the speed switch is moved from one setting to another. On the Pontiac Aztek, the resistor is part of a controller mounted on the front of the blower motor housing under the passengers side dash. If the motor runs on high but not on any other speed, theres a good chance that the resistor is no longer functioning and needs to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Locate the blower motor under the passengers side of the dash. Find the blower controller to the left of the motor and disconnect the wiring harness connection on the controller from the connector on the wiring harness.

2

Depress the locking tab as you separate the two halves of the connection. Lay the connector from the wiring harness aside where it will not get damaged.

3

Locate the two retaining bolts on the bottom edge of the controller and remove them with a socket and ratchet. Pull the controller off the housing and remove it from under the dash.

You might need to remove side molding from your vehicles exterior for a variety of reasons. You might want to replace damaged or worn out molding, or you might be preparing to repaint the vehicle or do some body repair. The exterior side molding on most cars is attached with heavy duty double-sided tape. In addition to double-sided tape, some vehicles also have long plastic prongs on the backside of the molding strips that attach to the vehicle exterior through small holes on the cars body panels.

Instructions

1

Wear gloves and spray WD-40 along the full length of one piece of side molding.

2

Wait 10 minutes. To save time, you might consider spraying the other molding pieces now, if not just one or two.

3

Wrap the Spackle spatula tightly in microfiber cloth.

4

Insert the business end of the wrapped spatula between the end of the molding strip and the body panel.

5

Push the spatula toward the end of the molding strip with one hand while peeling away the molding with the other hand until you reach the end of the molding strip.

6

Spray Goo Gone on remnants of double-sided tape and work the bits and residue loose with microfiber cloth.

7

Move on to the next molding piece.