Repair And Fix it

The thermostat on your 1999 Saturn is located on the lower front of the engine on the passengers side, just above the water pump. The thermostat controls the flow of the coolant thats needed to maintain the proper operating temperature of the engine. As the engine temperature rises, the thermostat automatically opens and allows coolant into the engine. A malfunctioning thermostat will fail to open, preventing coolant from entering the engine and causing the engine to overheat. Replacing the thermostat is a fairly simple process that requires only a few tools.

Instructions

Removing the Thermostat

1

Allow the engine to cool. Put on your safety glasses, raise the hood and remove the radiator cap to release the pressure in the hose. Disconnect the negative battery cable for added safety.

2

Remove the carburetor air cleaner and filter unit to provide for better access to the thermostat. Unscrew the cover bolt in the center cap with your hand.

3

Place a clean bucket directly under the drain bolt on the bottom of the radiator.

4

Slide underneath the Saturn on your back and loosen the drain bolt using a socket wrench. Drain just enough coolant to clear out the upper radiator hose and tighten the drain bolt. Check to see if it is clear by squeezing the hose and feeling for any remaining coolant. Repeat this step until the upper radiator hose is empty.

5

Detach the spring-type hose clamp from the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the thermostat housing. Squeeze the clamp using channel-lock pliers and slide it off of the cover. The end that connects to the radiator can remain attached.

6

Remove the two mounting bolts that secure the thermostat housing cover to the engine block, using the socket wrench. Tap the cover using a rubber mallet to break the seal. Remove the thermostat. Scrape off the old gasket using a razor, being caul not to allow any gasket debris to fall into the engine.

Installing the Thermostat

7

Test the new thermostat before installing to confirm that its working properly. Fill a deep bowl with very hot tap water. Grab the thermostat upright using the channel-lock pliers and hold it in the hot water, making sure the entire thermostat is submerged. The lower spring side of the thermostat should open immediately, indicating that it is working correctly.

8

Apply a small amount of gasket adhesive to the new gasket using your finger. Place the gasket directly onto the engine block at the thermostat opening. Be sure that the mounting holes are correctly aligned so that the thermostat will seat correctly.

9

Install the new thermostat with the spring side inserted into the engine, and caully reposition the housing cover. Do not to move or disturb the gasket. Secure the housing cover on the engine block with the two mounting bolts.

10

Reposition the carburetor air cleaner and filter. Reconnect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat cover. Secure the hose in place with the spring clamp. Inspect the hose for bulging and replace it if necessary.

11

Reconnect the negative battery cable and start the engine. Pour the drained coolant back into the radiator and allow the engine to idle for several minutes. Inspect the thermostat and hose connections for leaks.

The spline nut, also known as the axle spline nut or axle nut, is located on the threaded end of each front axle shaft. This nut holds the splined end of the axle securely inside the wheel hub. The axle nut is a 34 mm nut that is pinched in order to prevent it from loosening. Because the nut is pinched in the manufacturing process, it is not reusable. There are two types of axle nuts installed on 1999 Aleros, and both are not reusable. The first type is the older style that is black with a sheet metal cage around the nut. The new nut is a silver-colored, standard-size pinch nut. If your vehicle has the old style nut, it must be removed and replaced with the new style nut. If your vehicle has the new style nut, it must be replaced when removed with a new nut of the same style.

Instructions

Removal

1

Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Break the front lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and slide jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and make sure that its secure.

2

Remove the lug nuts completely, then remove the tire. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal. Attach a 34 mm socket to a T-handle bar and break the axle nut loose while your assistant is holding the brake pedal; this will prevent the wheel and hub from turning while you break the nut loose.

3

Remove the axle nut the rest of the way using a 1/2-inch ratchet and your 34 mm socket. Throw away the old nut; it cannot be reused.

Installation

4

Thread the new nut onto the spindle by hand, then have an assistant depress the brake pedal once again.

5

Tighten the nut to 173 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Reinstall the tire and snug the lug nuts with a lug nut wrench.

6

Lower the Alero back to the ground and torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern to 100 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Ford introduced the Taurus in 1985. During its production run, the number of Taurus vehicles sold totaled over seven million. Ford ceased production of the Taurus in 1996. Though frustrating for drivers, an overheating Taurus does not have to signal disaster. A few maintenance interventions and some troubleshooting can keep the Taurus on the road and running normally.

Causes

Several factors can cause or contribute to a Taurus overheating. A temperature gauge climbing into the red zone is a sign of overheating. A Taurus can overheat due to leaking hoses, coolant leaks to cylinders or oil, improper coolant levels, heat transfer problems or cooling system circulation issues. A failing water pump does not circulate water and coolant through the cooling system, interfering with proper temperature maintenance and cooling.

Prevention/Solution

Observation is crucial and helps immensely in troubleshooting overheating causes. Look for signs of leakage that could be contributing to overheating in the Taurus. Yellow buildup near the oil cap can indicate a coolant leak going to the oil compartment. White smoky exhaust fumes indicates coolant is likely leaking to the engine cylinders. Locating and resolving leaks can fix overheating woes and prevent costlier repairs later. Make sure the radiator cap is securely capped so that the cooling system pressure is maintained. Replace components such as failing water pumps, thermostats or electrical fans. Maintain proper coolant levels, using a hydrometer to measure antifreeze concentration. The suggested mixture is a 50/50 ratio of water to ethylene glycol.

Warning

Never open a hot radiator or attempt to work on a hot heating system. Allow the Taurus to cool before inspection. The cooling system is pressurized and can release dangerous pressure and scalding-hot fluids. Utilize care in coolant disposal and clean spills promptly, as pets could drink antifreeze left unattended.

When an oxygen sensor fails in your 1999 Ford Explorer, it is like pouring money into your gas tank. Your gas mileage will decrease substantially, and your Check Engine light may illuminate. If you have a bad oxygen sensor, you should replace it right away. One sensor is located on each side of the exhaust manifold. You can buy new sensors at an auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Lift the truck with a jack and secure it on jack stands. Move the jack out of the way once the truck is stable on the jack stands.

2

Pull the wiring harness connection apart at the top of the oxygen sensor. The connector will simply pull apart.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Discard the old sensor as you will no longer need it.

4

Insert the new sensor, threading it by hand to start it. Torque it to 30 pound-feet with your torque wrench.

5

Press the wiring harness connection into place on the new sensor. The connector should click when it engages fully.

6

Repeat the steps on the remaining oxygen sensor if necessary. Raise the truck with the jack enough to remove the jack stands. Return the truck to the ground.

Chevrolet introduced the Malibu as the top-of-the-line trim of the Chevelle in 1964, and in 1978 Chevy dropped the Chevelle and replaced the entire line with the Malibu. The 1999 Malibu came in base and LS trims with three different engines. As is often the case, the timing specs, such as the spark-plug gap and firing order, vary not only from year to year but also from trim to trim of the Malibu. So, it is extremely important to make certain that the specs are specific to the make, model, model year, trim and engine size. However, certain aspects of the 1999 Malibus timing are not adjustable at all because they are controlled by the vehicles computer system.

The 2.4-liter, 150-horsepower Engine

The base trim of the 1999 Malibu came standard with a 2.4-liter, 150-horsepower in-line four-cylinder engine. The spark-plug gap for this engine was 0.50 inches. The firing order was 1-3-4-2. The ignition timing was not adjustable, regardless of the transmission, because the timing was dictated by the Power Control Module (PCM).

3.1-liter, 150-horsepower V-6 Engine

A 3.1-liter, 150-horsepower V-6 engine was standard in the LS trim and optional for the Base trim. The spark-plug gap was 0.60 inches, and the firing order was 1-2-3-4-5-6. The ignition timing and the mark were controlled by the PCM and a crankshaft position sensor. The only way to actually adjust the timing would be to replace these parts.

3.1-liter, 170-horsepower V6 Engine

The 3.1-liter, 170-horsepower V-6 engine was optional in both the base and LS trims of the 1999 Chevy Malibu. The spark-plug gap was 0.60 inches and the firing order was 1-2-3-4-5-6. Like the other two 1999 Malibu engines, the ignition timing was not adjustable because it was controlled by the PCM and a crankshaft position sensor.

If your air conditioning malfunctions in your 1999 Lexus LS400, prompt servicing is the best way to protect your Lexus investment. Any automotive mechanic can recharge your air conditioner, but damage to your air conditioning system requires Lexus service technicians, certified by the Lexus Commitment to Excellence program, if you want your warranty to stand. Mechanical or electrical air conditioning problems may mean replacing the entire system, the compressor, condenser, accumulator, evaporator, blower motor, control unit, fan and clutch.

Compressor Specifications

The Lexus Part Store sells new and urbished used air conditioner compressors for the 1999 Lexus LS400. The remanufactured compressors come with a core charge. The LS400 compressor has six grooves, a 1.65-inch line, a mount manifold, a tangent mount, a 4.5-inch pulley, a speed sensor switch and a clutch. The urbished compressor carries a two-year or 24,000-mile warranty. The new compressor cost $442 in 2010 and is under warranty for one year. The urbished compressor cost $395 in 2010. A core charge of $61 in 2010 was imposed on top of the part cost; the core charge is unded to the purchaser upon receipt of the old compressor.

Condenser Function

The condenser collects filth and oil from the compressor. Refrigerant may carry this filth through the condenser to the expansion valve, clogging the valve or tube. If oil cannot flow through the condenser, the compressor cannot receive oil, and the compressor will lack lubrication. If the condenser is dirty, it may be necessary to replace it. Flushing the compressor definitely moves sludge through the system. The sludge may form a blockage or damage the compressor. If you damage your air conditioner by flushing it, your warranty will be void, at least for the air conditioner.

Condenser Specifications

The Lexus Parts Store website lists two condensers for a 1999 Lexus LS400. A new first-class condenser with a clutch, manufactured from high-quality materials for extended reliability, cost $235 in 2010. A limited 1-year warranty covers manufacturers defects in the compressor. A second aluminum parallel flow condenser cost $139 in 2010. It is guaranteed to fit without leaking. Both condensers reduce noise and vibration. A chrome-plated compressor gasket or trim ring fits most cars and trucks with 7-inch radial compressors. The gasket costs $29 from the Lexus Parts Store in 2010 and comes with a 90-day warranty.

Manufactured for the export market, the Mazda 626 first appeared in the U.S. in 1979. The 1999 version of the 626 is a four-door family sedan that was powered by a 2.0-liter, inline four-cylinder engine that produced 125 horsepower and 127 foot-pounds of torque. A leaking gasket that caused poor engine performance was one of the engines issues.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative (ground) battery cable. Remove the timing belt. Remove the front exhaust pipe. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the accelerator cable. Disconnect the fuel hose. Remove the ignition coil.

2

Drain the engine coolant. Verify the engine oil level. Inspect for engine oil, engine coolant and fuel leakage. Inspect the pulleys and the drive belt for runout and contact.

3

Hold the camshaft by using a wrench on the cast hexagon, and loosen the camshaft pulley lock bolt. Loosen the camshaft cap bolts in two or three steps. Arrange the removed camshaft caps to ensure correct placement during installation. Temporarily install the number three engine mount rubber to support the engine. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps. Remove the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Clean the surface of the block from any dirt and debris with a degreaser. Place the new head gasket on the block.

4

Measure the length of each bolt used to tighten the cylinder head. Replace any that exceed the maximum length. Standard length is 4.103 to 4.125 inches. Maximum length would be 4.154 inches. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps. Tightening torque shouldnt exceed 16.2 foot-pounds for each step. To install everything back, just follow the removal sequence in reverse. Remember to connect the negative battery cable back to the battery.

The rear window on the 1999 BMW 323i convertible is a plastic compound that may scratch or discolor over time. A damaged rear window on your convertible may make it difficult for you to see through the rear view mirror, putting your safety at risk. Buy a replacement window from a BMW dealer or parts store and replace it in minutes at home. Installing the window properly is important to protecting your BMW from water damage.

Instructions

1

Lower the windows in your BMW and open the convertible top. Raise the top an inch or two from the windshield frame to stretch it out, making it easier to work on the rear window.

2

Separate the black rubber weather seal from the rear window using the flat plastic tool provided with the replacement window. A new seal is also included with the replacement window so dont worry if you damage the existing one during removal.

3

Pry the metal clip off the bottom of the window with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the clip off the base of the window. Unzip the old window and remove it from the top. Clean any residual glue or dirt from the top with rubbing alcohol on a cloth.

4

Align the new window and attach the zipper. Zip the window into place. Replace the metal clip where the zipper stops to prevent it from accidentally unzipping. Press the clip into place. Apply a small piece of the double-sided tape included with the window to the top of the clip. Remove the protective sheet from the double-sided tape attached to the new window.

5

Press the new, rubber weather seal included with the replacement window into place on the double-sided tape. Press firmly all the way around the window to attach the seal and protect your rear window from leaks. Raise the convertible top to the "Up" position and let it sit for 24 hours before you put the top down.

The 1999 Ford Expedition is built on an F150 platform. The Expedition uses a 9.75-inch rear axle. The axles are retained with C-clips at the end of the axle shaft, inside the differential carrier. The axle bearings are of the roller type. A failed axle bearing can manifest itself as a noise at the rear wheel or gear oil leaking past the oil seal. When replacing axle bearings, the oil seals must also be replaced.

Instructions

1

Park the Expedition on a flat, paved surface, and do not set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, then raise the rear of the Expedition with a jack, and support it with jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and rear wheels.

2

Remove the rear brake drums. For disc brakes, use a ratchet and socket to remove the lower caliper mounting bolt and loosen the upper bolt. Pivot the caliper up and away from the rotor. Remove the rotor.

3

Position a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts that hold on the carrier cover with a ratchet and socket. Catch the gear oil in the drain pan. Remove the old cover gasket, and use a gasket scraper to remove any material from the cover and the differential housing. Wipe both surfaces with a shop rag.

4

Examine the carrier assembly inside the housing, and youll see the large vertically mounted ring gear. Next to the ring gear, running through the carrier housing, you will see the pinion shaft. Rotate the carrier assembly until youre looking at the end of the shaft. It runs through holes in both sides of the carrier assembly. To the right of the shaft is a small bolt that screws into the carrier assembly and engages the end of the shaft. Place a large screwdriver between the differential housing and one of the bolts that holds the ring gear onto the carrier assembly. This is to prevent the carrier from turning when you remove the small bolt. Remove the bolt with a ratchet and socket.

5

Rotate the carrier assembly 180 degrees until youre looking at the hole on the other side of the carrier assembly that holds the pinion shaft. Slide the shaft out of the carrier assembly in this direction. Pull the shaft out until the stepped part of the shaft contacts the ring gear.

6

Push the outer end of the axle in toward the center of the differential housing. Move back under the Expedition; you will be able to see the end of the axle shaft. The axle shaft has a C-clip in a groove on the end of the axle. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully remove the clip. Remove the C-clip for the other axle in the same manner. Do not rotate the differential while the pinion shaft is pulled out. Slide the axles out of the end of the axle tubes.

7

Attach an axle bearing puller to a slide hammer. Insert the bearing puller through the center of the bearing. Using the slide hammer, extract the bearing and oil seal. Repeat for the other bearing and oil seal. Clean the end of the axle tube with a shop rag. Note that there is a small step inside the axle tube that the axle bearing seats against.

8

Tap the new bearing into the axle tube with a hammer and a socket the same size as the outside of the bearing. Seat the bearing against the step in the axle tube. Coat the rubber lip of the oil seal with gear oil. Use the same socket to tap the oil seal into the axle tube. Make sure the seal is flush with the end of the tube. Repeat for the other bearing and seal. Slide the axle into the axle tube far enough so you can reinstall the C-clip. After you install the clip, pull out on the axle to seat the clip in the recess in the small spider gear. Repeat for the other axle.

9

Push the pinion shaft back through the carrier. Put a couple of drops of non-hardening thread sealer on the pinion shaft bolt, and reinstall the bolt. Torque the bolt to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

10

Coat the gasket mounting surface on the differential cover and the gasket mounting surface on the differential housing with gasket sealer. Coat one side of a new differential cover gasket with gasket sealer and press the gasket onto the differential cover. Coat the other side of the gasket with gasket sealer, and position the cover onto the housing. Install the bolts, and tighten them until the cover is just seated against the housing. Moving in a crisscross pattern, torque the bolts 30 foot-pounds.

11

Remove the filler plug from the differential cover. Add 4 ounces of limited-slip friction modifier to the differential, then fill it with 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil. The differential is full when the gear oil reaches the bottom of the filler hole. Replace and tighten the filler plug.

12

Install the brake drum, or install the rotor and rotate the caliper back onto the rotor. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Mount the wheels, and install the lug nuts. Raise the Expedition and remove the jack stands. Lower the Expedition to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts. Test drive, and check for leaks.

Ford uses a neutral start sensor -- also called the transmission range sensor or transmission position sensor -- on the 1999 F-150 trucks equipped with automatic transmissions. The TR sensor, located on the driver side of the transmission around the manual control lever shaft, controls the function of the reverse lights and interrupts the starter circuit between the ignition switch and the starter relay unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral. You will need to align the sensor after installation to ensure proper operation.

Instructions

1

Park the truck on level ground. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Place the transmission in the Neutral position. Raise the front of the truck with a jack and support it using jack stands.

2

Locate the sensor on the driver side of the transmission behind the shift control cable and the manual control lever shaft. Lift the locking tab on the electrical connector and unplug the connector from the sensor.

3

Remove the shift control cable retainer from the control lever. Slide the control cable off the pin on the control lever.

4

Hold the shift control lever in position and remove the control lever shaft nut using a ratchet and socket. Remove the shift lever from the lever shaft and discard the old nut.

5

Remove the sensor retaining bolts using a ratchet and socket. Remove the old sensor.

6

Install the new sensor and start the sensor retaining bolts. Do not tighten the retaining bolts at this time.

7

Position the sensor alignment tool above the control lever shaft with the single prong up and the double prongs down. Insert the double prongs into the two detents in the sensor collar around the control lever shaft. Rotate the collar using the alignment tool until the upper single prong fits into the detent at roughly the 10 oclock position on the upper edge of the sensor case. Remove the alignment tool.

8

Tighten the sensor retaining bolts to 62 to 89 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

9

Install the manual control lever shaft and a new control lever shaft nut (included with new sensor). Hold the control lever in position and tighten the nut to 22 to 26 foot-pounds using a foot-pound torque wrench.

10

Place the shift lever in the passenger cab in the Overdrive position. Install the shift lever control cable and retainer on the shift lever.

11

Snap the sensor electrical connector on the sensor terminal.

12

Lower the truck to the ground and place the shift lever in the Park position. Remove the wheel chocks and check for proper reverse light operation before driving the truck.

The Jimmy is a mid-size sport utility vehicle that General Motors manufactured from 1983 to 2005. The 1999 model belongs to the second generation, which was in production from 1995 to 2005. These vehicles had a six-cylinder 4.3-liter engine with sequential fuel injection. The cylinder head in a 1999 Jimmy is a platform on the cylinder block that contains the poppet valves and spark plugs. The procedure for installing a cylinder head is generally the same for all versions of the Jimmy made between 1994 and 1999.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Remove the filler cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Wrap a shop rag around the fuel pressure connection on the fuel rail and connect a fuel pressure gauge to the connection. Place the bleed hose of the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline, and open the valve on the fuel pressure gauge. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system and drain the excess fuel into the gasoline container.

2

Place a sealable container under the radiator drain and open the drain plug with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant into the container and seal it for reuse. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifold from the engine. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the radiator.

3

Detach the electrical wiring harness and coolant sensor wire from the rear of the cylinder head. Record the positions of the electrical wiring for the spark plugs and disconnect them. Unscrew the spark plugs with a socket wrench and remove the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

4

Remove the bracket for the fuel line from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cover for the rocker arm and loosen the rocker arm. Remove the push rods from the cylinder block.

5

Remove the bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench and lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block. Remove any dirt from the threads of the cylinder head bolts with a shop cloth to ensure you can properly torque the bolts later.

6

Mount a new gasket for the cylinder head on the dowel pins so that the side of the gasket with the words "This Side Up faces up. Install the new cylinder head onto the dowels and gasket. Apply a thin layer of sealer 12346004 to the threads on the cylinder head bolts. Record the length of each bolt and fasten the mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand.

7

Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head to 22 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the short bolts an additional 55 degrees with a socket wrench. Tighten the medium bolts to 65 degrees and tighten the long bolts to 75 degrees.

8

Connect the push rods to the cylinder block and fasten the rocker arms with a socket wrench. Replace the cover for the rocker arms and screw the spark plugs into the cylinder block. Connect the electrical wiring for the spark plugs using the notes you made in Step 3.

9

Attach the bracket for the fuel line with a socket wrench and attach the electrical wiring to the rear of the cylinder head. Connect the electrical wire to the coolant sensor. Attach the exhaust manifold and intake manifold.

10

Fasten the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and fill the engine with coolant. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.