Repair And Fix it

Place the wheel chocks against the Cougars right-front wheel to prevent the Mercury from rolling.

Elevate the Cougars rear end using a floor jack. Position a jack stand under the body rail jack points on either side of the back of the Cougar and lower the car onto the jack stands. Move the floor jack away from the rear of the car.

Unbolt the ends of the Cougars rear sway bar from the sway bar links using your socket set. Unbolt the rear sway bar brackets with the socket set and lower the sway bar to the ground by hand.

Move the old sway bar out from under the Cougar by hand. Replace it with the new sway bar. Hold the new sway bar in position and bolt the sway bar brackets back in using your socket set, making sure the sway bar bushings dont squirt out while tightening the brackets.

Bolt the sway bar ends to the sway bar links using your socket set. Lift the Cougars rear end off the jack stands using the floor jack. Move the stands away from the car before lowering it to the ground.

Raise the Chevrolets wheels off the ground. Spot two blocks, one behind each rear wheel, to prevent the vehicle from rolling.

Place a floor jack under the center of the front cross member. Lift the front of the Chevy off the ground. Insert two jack stands, one under each side of the frame close to the wheels. Lower the jack.

Position the floor jack under the center of the rear differential. Lift the rear of the car off the ground. Set two jack stands, one under each axle tube. Lower the jack.

Place a ground mat or a piece of cardboard under the vehicle. Position the oil pan under the center of the rear differential. Locate the bottom drain plug. Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar into the plug socket and remove it. Some rear differentials must be drained by removing the cover. Remove the bolts in the cover and drain the oil.

Replace the gear lube. Reinstall the drain plug in the bottom of the differential and tighten it. If you drained the oil, replace the cover and install a new gasket if needed.

Locate and remove the level plug. Its found near the horizontal line of the rear differential.

Refill the gear lube through the level hole. Fill until oil runs out of the hole. Use the manufacturers recommended oil.

Replace and tighten the level fill plug.

Position the jack under the center of the rear differential. Jack the vehicle off the stands and place it on the ground.

Disengage the parking brake. Place a wheel chock behind each of the Saturns front wheels to keep the vehicle from accidentally moving while you work.

Lift up the rear of the car with a floor jack, high enough to slide the jack stands underneath the car next to each control arm by the wheels. Slide the jack stands into place and lower the car onto them.

Put on a respirator mask, which you can purchase from any hardware store, to protect yourself from brake pad dust. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Take off the wheel and set it aside with the lug nuts.

Twist off the drums clockwise. If they are stuck, strike them with a hammer gently and twist again.

Locate the star-shaped self-adjuster under the wheel cylinder. Spread the shoes open a bit by turning the self-adjuster. Slip the drums back onto the shoes. They should slide on easily if you did the adjustment correctly.

Put the wheels back on the Saturn and tighten the lug nuts. Lift up the car with the jack and slide the jack stands out. Lower the car to the ground. Lift up on the parking brake, which should only move up six notches maximum.

Tighten the lug nuts all the way with the lug wrench and remove the wheel chocks.

Park the Expedition on a flat, paved surface, and do not set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, then raise the rear of the Expedition with a jack, and support it with jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and rear wheels.

Remove the rear brake drums. For disc brakes, use a ratchet and socket to remove the lower caliper mounting bolt and loosen the upper bolt. Pivot the caliper up and away from the rotor. Remove the rotor.

Position a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts that hold on the carrier cover with a ratchet and socket. Catch the gear oil in the drain pan. Remove the old cover gasket, and use a gasket scraper to remove any material from the cover and the differential housing. Wipe both surfaces with a shop rag.

Examine the carrier assembly inside the housing, and youll see the large vertically mounted ring gear. Next to the ring gear, running through the carrier housing, you will see the pinion shaft. Rotate the carrier assembly until youre looking at the end of the shaft. It runs through holes in both sides of the carrier assembly. To the right of the shaft is a small bolt that screws into the carrier assembly and engages the end of the shaft. Place a large screwdriver between the differential housing and one of the bolts that holds the ring gear onto the carrier assembly. This is to prevent the carrier from turning when you remove the small bolt. Remove the bolt with a ratchet and socket.

Rotate the carrier assembly 180 degrees until youre looking at the hole on the other side of the carrier assembly that holds the pinion shaft. Slide the shaft out of the carrier assembly in this direction. Pull the shaft out until the stepped part of the shaft contacts the ring gear.

Push the outer end of the axle in toward the center of the differential housing. Move back under the Expedition; you will be able to see the end of the axle shaft. The axle shaft has a C-clip in a groove on the end of the axle. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully remove the clip. Remove the C-clip for the other axle in the same manner. Do not rotate the differential while the pinion shaft is pulled out. Slide the axles out of the end of the axle tubes.

Attach an axle bearing puller to a slide hammer. Insert the bearing puller through the center of the bearing. Using the slide hammer, extract the bearing and oil seal. Repeat for the other bearing and oil seal. Clean the end of the axle tube with a shop rag. Note that there is a small step inside the axle tube that the axle bearing seats against.

Tap the new bearing into the axle tube with a hammer and a socket the same size as the outside of the bearing. Seat the bearing against the step in the axle tube. Coat the rubber lip of the oil seal with gear oil. Use the same socket to tap the oil seal into the axle tube. Make sure the seal is flush with the end of the tube. Repeat for the other bearing and seal. Slide the axle into the axle tube far enough so you can reinstall the C-clip. After you install the clip, pull out on the axle to seat the clip in the recess in the small spider gear. Repeat for the other axle.

Push the pinion shaft back through the carrier. Put a couple of drops of non-hardening thread sealer on the pinion shaft bolt, and reinstall the bolt. Torque the bolt to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

Coat the gasket mounting surface on the differential cover and the gasket mounting surface on the differential housing with gasket sealer. Coat one side of a new differential cover gasket with gasket sealer and press the gasket onto the differential cover. Coat the other side of the gasket with gasket sealer, and position the cover onto the housing. Install the bolts, and tighten them until the cover is just seated against the housing. Moving in a crisscross pattern, torque the bolts 30 foot-pounds.

Remove the filler plug from the differential cover. Add 4 ounces of limited-slip friction modifier to the differential, then fill it with 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil. The differential is full when the gear oil reaches the bottom of the filler hole. Replace and tighten the filler plug.

Install the brake drum, or install the rotor and rotate the caliper back onto the rotor. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Mount the wheels, and install the lug nuts. Raise the Expedition and remove the jack stands. Lower the Expedition to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts. Test drive, and check for leaks.

Jack the Porsche 944 up on all corners. Slide the car jack in under the car frame, jack that corner up and then slide in a jack stand to hold the corner up. Repeat this process on all the corners. Remove the lug nuts from each wheel with your tire iron and then slide the wheel off by hand.

Slide the two sway bar bushings onto the sway bar. The bushings have a slit on one side where you can hammer the rubber ring on the bar with a rubber mallet. It does not matter where on the sway as the bushing can slide back and forth. Place the metal supports over the bushings and then slide the support and bushing to match up with the bolts holes on the 944s frame. Thread each bolt in first, then wrench them down tight.

Bolt in the top of the sway bar linkage on the right side first. The sway bar linkage top bolts on to the side of the hub assembly in the right wheel well. Then bolt the bottom of the sway bar linkage to the right end of the sway bar. Move the sway bar to the left or right to align it with the linkage. The bolt in the left sway bar linkage onto the hub assembly and then onto the left end of the sway bar.

Lower the Porsche 944 from the jack stands and take it for a test drive. You will not notice any difference in straightaways but you will in the corners.