Repair And Fix it

The 2003 Volkswagen Passat, including the GL, GLS, GLX and W8 4motion, features several standard and optional convenience options. All models include a liquid crystal display clock on the instrument cluster below the tachometer. Changing the time is an easy task that does not require any special tools or automotive knowledge.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN or ACC position.

2

Examine the instrument panel and locate the digital clock display.

3

Take note of the correct time, using a watch or cell phone.

4

Turn and hold the small plastic knob below the tachometer, using a counterclockwise motion to incrementally increase the hours. Release the knob when the correct hour is displayed.

5

Turn and hold the knob clockwise to adjust the minutes. Release the button when finished.

6

Turn the ignition to the OFF position to complete the process.

The exhaust manifold, also known as a header, on the Chevy Lumina collects the exhaust gases from the engine cylinders and diverts them through the exhaust pipe. If the manifold develops cracks, you will need to change it or the efficiency of the engine will drop. This is a project that you can do yourself, so there is no need to take the Lumina to an automotive repair shop. You can expect it to take you about three hours to complete the project.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut. Disconnect the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor. Turn the belt tensioner using a wrench and relieve the tension from the serpentine belt. Note the proper routing of the belt if the diagram is missing.

2

Remove the serpentine belt from the Lumina engine. Remove the bolts from the alternator using a socket and ratchet and take it off the engine. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Lumina. Lift the front of the car with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the Lumina near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

3

Remove the bolts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina and lower the car to the ground. Remove the oil fill tube from the engine block using a wrench. Pull the tube away from the engine. Remove the nuts from the exhaust manifold using a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine.

4

Remove the manifold gasket and discard it. Install a new gasket and exhaust manifold. Secure the nuts using a socket and ratchet. Install the oil fill tube and tighten the nut with a wrench. Raise the Lumina with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

5

Crawl under the Lumina and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten the bolts with a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina. Lower the car to the ground. Install the alternator and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Install the serpentine belt according to the diagram you made, or the one under the engine hood if present.

6

Place tension on the serpentine belt by turning the belt tensioner with a wrench. Connect the electrical connection to the oxygen sensor. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

Audi AG is a German company that makes cars in a range of styles. A V6 engine is common in late-model Audi cars, such as the A6. This executive car typically features the AHA series engine, a six-cylinder, 2.8-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This engine has a timing belt to synchronize the movements of the crankshaft and camshafts. The timing belt requires regular replacement, unlike a timing chain, which can last the lifetime of the car.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft must also align with their respective timing marks on the crankcase.

2

Remove the plug from the left side of the engine block by the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft again if necessary. Connect Tool No. 3242 to the crankshaft and tighten it slightly to hold it in place.

3

Disconnect the upper timing belt covers, crankshaft vibration damper and lower timing belt cover in that order. Loosen the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench, and release the sprockets from the ends of the camshafts.

4

Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Place a 2 mm spring pin through the holes in the tensioner housing and plunger to hold the plunger in place. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise to release the tensioner.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench and detach the damper from the crankshaft. Disconnect the serpentine belt from the idler pulley and remove the guard for the crankshaft damper. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

6

Align the timing marks for the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys, if necessary. Place the new timing belt onto the pulleys, so that the arrow on the timing belt points in the clockwise direction.

7

Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Pull the 2 mm spring pin from the housing of the tensioner plunger. Turn the tensioner roller counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt.

8

Connect the damper guard for the crankshaft and attach the serpentine belt to the idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolts for the idler pulley bolts to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Replace the crankshaft damper and tighten its mounting bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Fasten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt covers.

9

Remove Tool No. 3242 from the crankshaft pulley. Install the sealing plug into its hole on the lower left side of the engine with a socket wrench. Attach the accessory drive belt and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

In 1983, Chevrolet introduced a mid-sized SUV to the market, known as the Blazer. The Blazer gave drivers the usefulness of an SUV, without the bulk of a full-sized SUV. In 2002, the Trailblazer replaced all four-door Blazers and finally, in 2006, the Trailblazer replaced the Blazer altogether. The 2007 Trailblazer came standard with a 4.2-liter, in-line six-cylinder engine that produced 291 horsepower and 277 foot-pounds of torque. The 2007 Trailblazers styling was similar to that of its Blazer predecessor, including the vertical taillight assemblies. Replacing the brake light bulbs in these vertical taillight assemblies is a relatively easy task.

Instructions

1

Open the rear hatch and remove the two screws on the inner part of the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

2

Pull the taillight assembly rearward to remove it from the Trailblazers body. Unplug the wiring harness from the rear of the taillight assembly, by pressing the locking button and pulling the harness away from the assembly.

3

Turn the taillight assembly over and remove the three screws holding the socket plate -- the roughly 2-by-5-inch plastic plate on the rear of the taillight assembly. Pull the socket plate from the taillight assembly; notice the bulbs remain attached to the plate.

4

Pull the burnt-out brake bulb from the socket plate with a slight wiggling motion. Grab a new 3157 brake light bulb with a clean, lint-free cloth and press it into the socket. Never touch the glass part of the bulb with your bare hands, as the oils from your hands can cause the bulb to burn out prematurely.

5

Set the socket plate back on the rear of the taillight assembly and tighten the three screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

6

Plug the wiring harness back into the socket plate and set the taillight assembly back on the rear of the Trailblazer. Tighten the two screws on the inner part of the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

7

Close the Trailblazers hatch.

The Dodge Neon uses the common 9007 headlight bulb. Eventually, after normal wear and over time, the 9007 headlight bulb will burn out. Replacing burnt out headlight bulbs on any vehicle is very important and may seem like a daunting task to those unfamiliar with auto repair. Replacing the bulb on the Dodge Neon is easy.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Dodge Neon and open the hood of the vehicle. Put on the clean gloves.

2

Locate the three upper fascia screws located right above the headlight. Use the screwdriver to remove all three of the screws.

3

Remove the headlight assembly unit from the vehicle by pulling it away from the Dodge Neon.

4

Disconnect the electrical connector by unplugging it from the back of the headlight assembly unit.

5

Remove the retaining ring by twisting it counterclockwise. This will allow access to the bulb. Pull out the old bulb and push the replacement bulb into the headlight assembly.

6

Reattach the retaining ring and reconnect the electrical connector by plugging it into the back of the headlight unit. Place the headlight assembly unit back into the vehicle and reattach the three screws to lock it into place. Close the hood.

Nissan markets its D22 and D40 pickup trucks in North America as the Frontier. A six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft is standard for the D22 models. The timing belt for this engine keeps the camshafts synchronized with the camshaft, enabling the engine to run smoothly. The timing belt has a limited lifetime, and typically requires replacement after 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the undercover from the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the shroud, cooling fan and cooling fan pulleys from the radiator. Drain the coolant from the radiator, and disconnect the hose from the radiator. Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

2

Remove the accessory drive belts for the power steering pump, air compressor and alternator. Disconnect the spark plugs and the distributor dust shield with a socket wrench. Remove the idler pulley and bracket from the air compressor.

3

Disconnect the air intake tube from the cylinder head cover with a socket wrench. Detach the radiator hose from the housing of the thermostat.

4

Remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley, and pull the pulley from its shaft with a gear puller. Remove the front timing belt covers.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the punch mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the notch on the housing for the oil pump. The punch mark on the left camshaft sprocket must also align with the punch mark on the rear timing belt cover.

6

Fasten the bolt for the crankshaft pulley directly to the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Disconnect the timing belt tensioner with a hex wrench, and remove the tensioner spring. Remove the timing belt from its sprockets.

7

Remove the cylinder head covers with a socket wrench, and loosen the rocker arm retaining bolts. Install the timing belt tensioner with a hex wrench, and connect the tensioner spring. Tighten the lock nut to hold the timing belt tensioner in place temporarily.

8

Align the marks on the timing belt with the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprockets. Install the new timing belt onto the sprockets with the arrow facing the front covers for the front timing belt.

9

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place manually. Loosen its lock nut with a hex wrench until the tensioner turns 70 to 80 degrees clockwise. Tighten the lock nut to hold the tensioner in this position.

10

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench by several full turns, and align the timing marks again. Push the timing belt with 22 pounds of pressure between the right camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley while you loosen the tensioner lock nut.

11

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise by several full turns with a socket wrench, and align the timing marks once again. Attach the front timing belt covers, and tighten the mounting bolts to 24 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley, and install the pulley onto the shaft. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to between 90 and 98 foot pounds.

12

Install the remaining components by performing steps one through three in reverse order. Start the engine, and correct any coolant leaks.

The voltage regulator in your automobile controls the voltage in your electrical system, maintaining a constant current to run the electrical and electronic accessories in your car. It maintains a constant voltage of between 13 to 15 volts, depending on your automobile. The extra voltage above your batterys voltage, which is 12 volts, allows the battery to be recharged. There are two types of regulators, contained electronic regulators and contact point regulators. Unless you have a classic car, more than 25 years old, your regulator will be of the electronic variety and is either attached to your alternator or located remotely.

Instructions

1

Use a wrench to detach the cables from the battery. The battery is typically located under the hood, directly behind the grill of the automobile, on either the right or left side. It has two cables attached. Detach the positive cable first, it will be labeled with a "+" sign. Loosen the nut holding the cable by turning it counterclockwise. Remove the negative cable in the same way.

2

Locate the voltage regulator. It is either in a black plastic box on the back of your alternator, which will be labeled on the belt diagram under the hood of your car or in line in the battery cable between the alternator and the battery. Consult a repair manual for your make and model for more specifics.

3

Position the new regulator over the old for remote regulators, inline with the battery cable and not attached to the alternator and unplug each cable from the old regulator and plug it into the new regulator. There may be up to four cables, depending on the make and model. For cables attached with screws, loosen the screws by turning them counterclockwise with a screwdriver. Attach the cables by fitting them onto the corresponding screws on the new regulator. Tighten the screws with the screwdriver. For integrated regulators, those attached to the alternators, move directly to the next step.

4

Remove the screws or bolts holding the regulator to the car frame, or alternator, using a wrench or screwdriver. The type of mounting hardware depends on the car model. Position the new regulator, aligning it with the holes on the alternator or car frame. Install the mounting screws through the holes in the new regulator and tighten them, by turning them clockwise.

5

Replace the battery cables and tighten the cables with the wrench, making sure to attach each cable to the contact you removed it from, positive to positive and negative to negative.

The 2005 Kia Spectra left the factory with a 2.0-liter, four-cylinder engine with a single serpentine belt driving the alternator and water pump from power supplied by the crankshaft pulley. Replacing that belt is a simply process with just a few steps and requiring only hand tools to complete. Working in the driveway or garage at home, most home mechanics can accomplish this job in about 20 minutes. A replacement belt for your Kia is available from any auto-parts store or through the Kia dealer.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the car and remove the retaining bolt that holds the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal using a wrench. Isolate the cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the adjuster bolt on the top of the alternator and loosen it with a wrench. Push the alternator toward the center of the engine, loosening the belt.

3

Remove the belt from the pulleys and discard it. Place the new belt around the crankshaft pulley, run it up and over the water pump pulley, then around the alternator pulley. Pull the alternator back, tightening the belt.

4

Tighten the adjuster bolt on the top of the alternator with a wrench, then check the tension on the belt. Press down on the belt between the alternator pulley and the water pump pulley. The belt should deflect about 1/8 inch.

5

Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt with a wrench.

The exhaust system on your Jeep Wrangler can be replaced to increase the power, fuel economy and performance of your vehicle. Stock exhaust systems do not allow the air to flow from the engine as efficiently as some aftermarket products, creating high exhaust temperatures and decreasing the vehicles power and fuel economy. Replacement exhaust kits may be purchased on-line or at your local auto parts store and installing the new exhaust requires only a ratchet and socket set.

Instructions

Original Exhaust Removal

1

Loosen and remove the clamps that connect the muffler to the exhaust tailpipe with a ratchet and socket.

2

Lubricate the rubber isolators at the frame by spraying them with lubricating fluid.

3

Remove the hangers on the muffler from the rubber isolators on the frame of the vehicle by pulling the hangers out of the rubber isolators. Lower the muffler to the ground.

Replacement Exhaust Installation

4

Place an exhaust clamp at the rear output pipe of the muffler.

5

Lift the muffler into position and insert the output pipe into the stock pipe. Push the hangers on the muffler into the rubber isolators on the frame. Tighten the clamp with a ratchet and socket.

6

Place an exhaust clamp on the output pipe of the muffler. Attach the tailpipe to the muffler and tighten the clamp with a ratchet and socket.

7

Look underneath the vehicle and confirm that no wires are touching the exhaust system.

8

Start the vehicle and check for leaks.

Locking hubs provide four-wheel drive vehicles with the ability to adjust to different road conditions. Disengage the locking hub so the vehicles front wheels turn freely for street driving, and engage it to connect them to drive line for traveling off-road. You can purchase manual or automatic locking hubs. As with most mechanical parts, an owner eventually may need to replace the hubs due to breakdown and normal wear and tear. Off-road driving causes stress-related damage to most car parts, including the hubs. If you have some car repair experience you can change the locking hubs yourself at a low cost.

Instructions

Removing the Old Locking Hub

1

Put on the work gloves and turn off the engine. Place your car in "Park" if you have an automatic transmission or "Neutral" for manual and put on the emergency brake.

2

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel with the tire wrench. Use the floor jack to raise the car and place the jack stand beneath the frames outer edge. Take off the lug nuts with the tire iron and set the wheel aside.

3

Remove the hub cover using the appropriate socket wrench. Find the two snap ring holes in the hub. Insert the snap ring pliers into the snap rings and pull them out. Detach the drive flange from the axle assembly with the socket wrench.

4

Take off the six nuts securing the hub body to the axle. Tap the hub lightly with a hammer to help remove the gasket. Pull the old locking hub from the axle.

Installing the New Locking Hub

5

Apply carburetor cleaner to the axle mating surface. Use the gasket scraper to remove remaining gasket material and build up. Wipe all the cleaner and other particles from the surface with a rag. Apply silicon sealant on the axle mating surface. Avoid putting sealant in the thread holes.

6

Coat the bottom of the new locking hub. Align the locking hub body with the axle mating surface. Install the six nuts by hand. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts according to the specifications in your owners manual. Remove excess silicon sealant with a rag.

7

Install the new drive flange and fasten the snap rings into place with the pliers. Apply a small coating of sealant on the outside edge of the hub body and attach the new gasket.

8

Replace the hub cover using the socket wrench. Use a rag to remove excess sealant that may have leaked.

9

Put the front wheel back on the axle and secure loosely with the lug nuts. Use the floor jack to remove the jack stand and lower the car. Use the torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts according to the specifications in your owners manual.

When an oxygen sensor fails in your 1999 Ford Explorer, it is like pouring money into your gas tank. Your gas mileage will decrease substantially, and your Check Engine light may illuminate. If you have a bad oxygen sensor, you should replace it right away. One sensor is located on each side of the exhaust manifold. You can buy new sensors at an auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Lift the truck with a jack and secure it on jack stands. Move the jack out of the way once the truck is stable on the jack stands.

2

Pull the wiring harness connection apart at the top of the oxygen sensor. The connector will simply pull apart.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Discard the old sensor as you will no longer need it.

4

Insert the new sensor, threading it by hand to start it. Torque it to 30 pound-feet with your torque wrench.

5

Press the wiring harness connection into place on the new sensor. The connector should click when it engages fully.

6

Repeat the steps on the remaining oxygen sensor if necessary. Raise the truck with the jack enough to remove the jack stands. Return the truck to the ground.

Changing the valve body in your 1994 Ford Bronco with automatic transmission can give you more control over the shift points of your transmission as well as fix valve body-related transmission problems. With the right tools, this is a job that can be accomplished in around three to four hours.

Instructions

1

Place wheel chocks in front of and behind one rear wheel. These can be 4-by-4-in. blocks. Jack the front end of the Bronco up enough that you can comfortably slide under the transmission area. Place the jackstands under both sides and caully lower the vehicle onto them.

2

Push the drain pan with the umbrella over it under the rear portion of the transmission where you can reach it from under the transmission pan. Bringing the tools, slide under the truck inline with the transmission pan.

3

Verify the correct socket size for the transmission pan bolts. Attach the correct socket to the end of the extension and the extension to the ratchet. It will be either the 7/16 or 1/2-in. socket.

4

Remove the three bolts from one corner by rotating them counterclockwise. Loosen the rest of the pan bolts halfway.

5

Slide the drain pan and umbrella under the transmission pan.

6

Insert the tip of the screwdriver between the pan and transmission case in the corner with the removed bolts and twist, breaking the seal of the gasket. Hold the pan umbrella and center the drain pan under the fluid flow. Wait for the flow to significantly slacken.

7

Remove the remaining bolts, slowly allowing the rest of the transmission fluid to flow out of the pan. Set the pan aside.

8

Remove the three screws holding the transmission filter in place and remove the filter, setting it into the pan umbrella.

9

Verify the size of the bolts securing the valve body and attach the correct socket to the extension. Rotate the bolts counter-clockwise to remove them. Set the bolts aside within easy reach. Set the valve body in the umbrella also.

10

Slide out from under the truck and clean the transmission pan with the parts cleaner and rags. Use the scraper to remove the gasket and through this away. Slide the pan and replacement parts and scraper under the truck and caully remove the drain pan.

11

Slide under the truck and use the gasket scraper to remove the gasket from the transmission case to pan mating surface.

12

Align the new valve body correctly and insert the bolts into the corresponding holes and start them by twisting them clockwise.

13

Attach the socket and ratchet to each bolt and tighten them to approximately 30 pounds per square inch of torque.

14

Align the new transmission with the bolts and fluid holes and insert the three retaining bolts. Twist these clockwise to start and tighten with the screwdriver.

15

Align the pan gasket with the bolt holes in the transmission pan. Use four to six bolts to hold the gasket in place and place the gasket and pan against the transmission case. Start the four or six bolts sufficiently to hold the pan in place by turning them clockwise.

16

Insert and start the remaining bolts. Run them all down to finger tight.

17

Tighten the bolts, moving from the center of each side of the pan to the corners. Torque the bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds of torque. Slide out, bringing the tools with you.

18

Lift the truck off the jack stands and pull them out. Slowly lower the truck completely and pull the jack out.

19

Remove the transmission dipstick and insert the funnel in the opening. Caully pour four to five quarts in. Start the engine and allow the transmission to warm up. Shift gears every 10 to 15 seconds.

20

Place the transmission in park and check the fluid level. Pour enough fluid in for the reading to be full. Shift gears every minute or so again to ensure proper fluid flow.

The Nissan Maxima is a mid-size car manufactured by Nissan since 1976. The third generation of this vehicle was in production from 1989 to 1994 and represented a major redesign. All versions of the 1994 Nissan Maxima have a 6-cylinder 3.0-liter engine with sequential fuel injection. The fuel injectors are on top of the engine and their replacement also requires you to remove the fuel rails.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the battery from producing sparks. Remove the collector for the intake manifold. Detach the hoses on the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rails.

2

Detach the electrical connectors for the fuel injector and disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

3

Remove the retainer screws for the fuel injector with a socket wrench and press the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Discard the O-rings for the fuel injector and apply a thin layer of engine oil to the new O-rings.

4

Install the O-rings to the new fuel injector and press the fuel injector into the fuel rail. Fasten the retainer screws for the fuel injector with a socket wrench.

5

Place the fuel rail assembly onto the engine. Torque the fuel rail mounting bolts to between 6.9 and 8.0 ft. lbs. with a socket wrench, then torque them to between 15 and 20 ft.lbs.

6

Attach the fuel lines to the fuel rail assembly and connect the hoses to the fuel pressure regulator. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel injectors and install the collector for the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Dodge Spirit is a mid-size sedan manufactured from 1989 to 1995. Most 1993 models have a four-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine that uses throttle-body injection, or TBI. TBI is an early form of fuel injection developed in the 1980s that used low fuel pressure, typically in the range of 10 to 15 pounds per square inch. The fuel pump on the 1993 Dodge Spirit is integrated with the fuel sender into a single unit. The replacement of the fuel pump on this vehicle requires you to disconnect the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an accidental spark from the battery. Drain the fuel in the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Squeeze the retainer tabs on the fuel supply line and fuel return lines. Disconnect these fuel lines from the fuel pump module.

2

Remove the mounting bolts from the fuel pump module with a socket wrench. Disconnect the wiring on top of the fuel pump module, and remove the nut for the fuel pumps lower bracket with a socket wrench. Remove the hose clamp from the fuel pump, and disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel pump. Remove the clamp for the inlet hose on the fuel pump, and disconnect the inlet hose.

3

Tilt the fuel pump to avoid damage to the float arm and fuel filter. Remove the lower gasket. Remove the fuel pump from the faceplate of the fuel tank. Remove the lower bracket and upper gasket from the fuel pump.

4

Place the new upper gasket onto the new fuel pump. Connect the fuel pump to the upper bracket and outlet hose. Attach the hose clamp to the outlet hose. Place the new lower gasket into the lower bracket, and fasten the bolt for the lower bracket with a socket wrench. Connect the inlet hose to the fuel pump, and attach its hose clamp. Connect the electrical wiring for the fuel pump.

5

Install the fuel pump module so the filter on the fuel pump module fits into the tray on the fuel tank. Align the bottom gasket so its holes align with the corresponding holes on the fuel tank. Attach the fuel pump module to the fuel tank by tilting it as necessary to clear the float arm and fuel filter. Use a socket wrench to fasten the fuel pump module to the fuel tank with the mounting bolts.

6

Connect the fuel supply line and fuel return line to the fuel pump module. Install the fuel tank, and lower the vehicle. Fill the fuel tank with fuel, and connect the cable for the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

The fuel injectors for an Audi A6 deliver fuel to the engines cylinders in a specific sequence, allowing the vehicle to to be more responsive than its carburetted counterparts. The procedure for changing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all A6s.

Instructions

1

Turn off the ignition. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump, using the list on the fuse box as a guide. Start the engine and allow it to idle until it stalls. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Replace the fuel pump fuse.

2

Wrap a clean shop rag around one of the fuel-line connections to the fuel rail. Loosen the retaining nuts for the fuel line with a socket wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Properly dispose of the rag.

3

Remove the retaining nuts for the fuel lines, and detach the fuel lines from the fuel rail. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench, and remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold with the injectors still attached. Turn the fuel injectors counterclockwise to remove them from the fuel rail.

4

Mount a new lower gasket to the nozzle end of the fuel injectors. Clean the threads of the fuel injectors with a clean shop rag, and apply a thin layer of thread-lock compound to the threads. Screw the fuel injectors clockwise with a socket wrench to install them into the fuel rail, and mount a new upper gasket to the open end of the fuel injectors.

5

Mount the fuel rail to the intake manifold, and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail, and fasten the retaining nuts for the fuel lines. Reattach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Motorcycle batteries, unlike car and marine batteries, require routine maintenance. Most motorcycle batteries are vented, meaning battery acid can breathe from a small tube if the battery gets too hot or the bike tips over. When a new battery is required, its best to look for a sealed alternative to the older vented-style battery -- they require less maintenance and typically last longer. Changing the battery should pose few problems, even for the novice motorcycle mechanic.

Instructions

Remove Seat

1

Locate the key slot on the side of the bike just below the seat.

2

Insert the ignition key and turn it with one hand while lifting up gently on the back of the seat. The seat should lift freely once the key is turned.

3

Remove the seat and set it aside, then pull the battery cover to the side to reveal the battery terminals.

4

Close the battery pliers around the nut securing the negative (black) battery terminal and turn it counterclockwise until the nut spins freely. Lift the negative battery lead off the terminal and place it to the side. Repeat for the positive terminal. Note: When using metal pliers, make sure the pliers do not come into contact with any other metal parts on the motorcycle. Sparking and battery explosion could occur.

5

Lift out the dead battery and discard it according to your trash haulers recommendation. Insert the new battery facing the same direction and reinstall it by following steps 4 and 3 in reverse.

Your 2001 Chevrolet Malibu contains three fuse boxes that, like the fuses in your home, protect your cars wiring system. If an electrical device in your car, such as the radio or the interior lights, has a problem and draws too much power, the fuse controlling it will blow, stopping electricity from flowing and protecting the wiring inside your car. If that happens, you will need to replace the blown fuse to restore power to the device.

Instructions

1

Turn off your cars engine.

2

Use your owners manual to identify where the affected fuse is. Open the fuse panel by grasping the handle and pulling out.

3

Identify the blown fuse. To remove a fuse, grasp it between your fingers and give it a firm pull. If you need to remove a fuse from the engine compartment, there is a special tool in that fuse box. The element of the damaged fuse will look burned or separated.

4

Replace the damaged fuse with a new one.

5

Replace the door of the fuse compartment. Do this by inserting the doors hooks into the slots and then pushing the rest of the door into place.

Dodge is a brand within the Chrysler auto manufacturing family. Their vehicles range from medium sized front-wheel drive sedans to commercial grade four-wheel drive trucks. The vehicles that send their power to the front wheels rely on continuous velocity joints, also know as U joints, to transfer torque while flexing. Without U joints, the front wheels could not bend and flex with the suspensions struts. However these joints are put under a lot of stress and need to be replaced if they break.

Instructions

1

Park the 2005 Dodge out of traffic and engage the parking brake. Turn the Dodge off and jack up the front of the vehicle with the car jack. Slide in the jack stands to keep the front of the car or truck elevated. Take off the front wheels with your tire iron and place them to the side.

2

Locate the front differential that connects the front half axles together. The half axles have U joints on each end so that they can flex independently. The U joints are a physical part of the half axles, so each half axle has to be removed and replaced. Unbolt the half axle from the shaft on the front differential and wrench the single bolt out of the U joint. Then wrench the bolt out of the shaft on the steering knuckle that connects to the other end of the half axle. Repeat this process on the other half axle.

3

Lift the new half axle into place and thread the bolts through the U joints by hand. First thread in the differential shaft U joint, then the steering knuckle U joint. Once both bolts are in, wrench the nuts down tight. Then repeat the process on the other half axle. Use the car jack to lift the steering knuckle up if it is too heavy for you.

4

Lower the Dodge off the jack stands. Then inspect the bolts in the U joints to make sure they are still tight. Turn the Dodge on. If you are in a four-wheel drive vehicle, shift into "4H." Listen for any banging or screeching that would indicate a loose half axle. Stop the car immediately and tighten the bolts if that happens.

The Buick LeSabre originated in 1951, but was not placed into production until the 1959 model year. The 2001 Buick LeSabre was available in a base model, and an upgraded Limited model. The 2001 LeSabre was equipped with a 3.8-liter V6 engine, capable of producing up to 205-horsepower and 230-foot-pounds of torque. The taillight bulbs in the rear of the LeSabre are enclosed within the taillight housing, which is fastened through the inside of the trunk.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of the LeSabre.

2

Remove the three plastic winged nuts from one side of the trunk, on the rear side of the taillight bulb assembly you are working on. You can use a pair of pliers to remove the winged nuts, if they are too tight to be removed by hand. Be careful not to snap the tabs off of the wing nuts with too much pressure. Peel the trunk liner off of the taillight studs and away from the taillight.

3

Pull the taillight assembly away from the rear of the LeSabre, and rest the assembly on the rear bumper. Remove the taillight from the housing by turning it counterclockwise in relation to its position on the car.

4

Pull the old taillight bulb out of the socket by hand. Insert a new taillight bulb using a paper towel or napkin around your hand. Do not touch the taillight bulb with your fingers directly.

5

Reinstall the taillight bulb back into the assembly, and turn it clockwise to lock it in position. Install the taillight assembly back into the rear of the car.

6

Push the trunk lining back onto the rear of the trunk, allowing the taillight assembly studs to go through the allotted holes. Install the plastic wing nuts onto the studs and tighten them by hand. No torque is needed to tighten the wing nuts.

7

Follow Steps 2 through 6 to change the taillight bulb on the opposite side of the bulb you just replaced.

You should make sure that the back-up lights on your 2003 Cadillac CTS are always in functioning order, and not just for safety reasons. Theres also the chance that you could get a citation for driving with faulty taillights. The 2003 CTS uses a number 3157 bulb for the back-up lights. Changing the back-up lights on the CTS is a simple process, and all you will need is a screwdriver.

Instructions

1

Pop the trunk of the CTS and turn off the engine.

2

Rotate the plastic wing nut on the tire counterclockwise to loosen and remove it. Remove the tire from the trunk of the CTS.

3

Detach the two screws securing the taillight assembly to the vehicle, using a Phillips screwdriver.

4

Pull the assembly out of the vehicle and remove the top socket by rotating it counterclockwise.

5

Pull the socket out of the assembly. Remove the bulb from the socket and push a new bulb in.

6

Reinsert the socket into the assembly and rotate it clockwise to secure it.

7

Reinsert the assembly into the CTS and reattach the two screws.

8

Place the tire back into the trunk. Secure it by rotating the wing nut clockwise. Close the trunk lid.