Repair And Fix it

The exhaust manifold, also known as a header, on the Chevy Lumina collects the exhaust gases from the engine cylinders and diverts them through the exhaust pipe. If the manifold develops cracks, you will need to change it or the efficiency of the engine will drop. This is a project that you can do yourself, so there is no need to take the Lumina to an automotive repair shop. You can expect it to take you about three hours to complete the project.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut. Disconnect the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor. Turn the belt tensioner using a wrench and relieve the tension from the serpentine belt. Note the proper routing of the belt if the diagram is missing.

2

Remove the serpentine belt from the Lumina engine. Remove the bolts from the alternator using a socket and ratchet and take it off the engine. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Lumina. Lift the front of the car with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the Lumina near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

3

Remove the bolts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina and lower the car to the ground. Remove the oil fill tube from the engine block using a wrench. Pull the tube away from the engine. Remove the nuts from the exhaust manifold using a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine.

4

Remove the manifold gasket and discard it. Install a new gasket and exhaust manifold. Secure the nuts using a socket and ratchet. Install the oil fill tube and tighten the nut with a wrench. Raise the Lumina with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

5

Crawl under the Lumina and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten the bolts with a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina. Lower the car to the ground. Install the alternator and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Install the serpentine belt according to the diagram you made, or the one under the engine hood if present.

6

Place tension on the serpentine belt by turning the belt tensioner with a wrench. Connect the electrical connection to the oxygen sensor. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

Vehicle exhaust systems consist of multiple parts. In order to properly ship the entire exhaust system, you will need to ship the components separately to avoid damaging them, being sure to keep your packaging to a reasonable size and weight in order to minimize shipping costs. Packing and shipping a car exhaust can be done relatively quickly. As long as it is packaged properly, the parts should reach your recipient in good condition.

Instructions

1

Prepare the exhaust components for packaging. There is a very small market for used car exhausts, so most exhaust systems will be brand new when they are shipped and you should not have to worry about cleaning the parts before shipping them.

2

Wrap each part in several layers of soft towels to protect them during shipping. Exhaust parts such as the muffler and exhaust manifolds are heavy enough that they may not be fully protected by bubble wrap.

Ship each component of the exhaust system separately to avoid the pieces moving and damaging one another during shipping.

3

Locate boxes to ship the exhaust in. Found Value recommends shipping long exhaust parts in five-foot long wardrobe boxes. If any of the parts are unusually heavy, you can purchase specially made double-walled shipping boxes that are twice as strong as regular cardboard boxes.

4

Fill your cardboard boxes with packing peanuts and place each exhaust system part in an individual box. Once you have placed each part into its box, place your packing slip into one of the boxes and then seal the boxes with packing tape.

5

Ship the exhaust using a shipper that regularly deals with large boxes and heavy items. You may want to check with different shippers for possible discounts or promotions. You also may want to select ground shipping for the exhaust system. Ground shipping is less expensive than air, and exhaust parts often cost more to ship because of their size.

The catalytic converter happens to be one of the most expensive parts of a car to fix, which leads many people to try to repair it at home. You have to know your way around cars and exhaust systems, or youre honestly better off taking it to a mechanic. If youre comfortable working on it yourself, there are a few things you should keep in mind.

Instructions

1

Lift your car. Unfortunately, the catalytic converter sits about midway down the length of your car, so lifting one end or the other will not do. Ramps are your best bet to get you within reach of the parts when working from home. Luckily, this is usually the hardest part of this repair.

2

Be patient with the bolts, as they are often hard to remove due to size and awkward placement. You may have to drill or saw bolts to remove them. With this in mind, you should pick up new bolts, nuts and seals for your replacement project.

3

Buy a catalytic converter specific to your car to avoid extra work. A generic part must be welded into the car, while a vehicle-specific model comes pre-welded to the proper pipes for easy bolt-on installation.

4

Remove the 02 sensor (with an O2 wrench) before unbolting the catalytic converter. Then, you should remove the pipe connecting the sensor to the converter. Depending on your exhaust system, you may have to remove more pipes before you unbolt the converter from the muffler.

5

Replace the old catalytic converter with a new one. This should be the easy part, as you simply bolt the new part in place.

6

Reattach the exhaust pipes and 02 sensor, and the basic job is done. Make sure you replace any cracked or rusty pipes while you have the exhaust system apart.

Pipe flaring tools are a necessity to help you replace or repair an exhaust pipe. Most inexpensive exhaust pipe flaring tools are able to round out the end of the pipe, but a high-end tool will move the metal to make the opening larger. To make the change more dramatic, you can heat the pipe before flaring to make the metal more pliable.

Superior Tool Pro Pipe Flaring Tool

The Superior Tool Pro Pipe Flaring Tool is used to flare brass, soft copper and aluminum tubing in all standard sizes ranging from 3/16 to 5/8 inches. It has a self-centering yoke inclined at 45 degrees that is made of resilient, malleable steel

Lisle Flaring Tool Set

The Lisle Flaring Tool Set includes strut and tail-pipe cutoff tools that can cut both round and out-of-round pipes. You can use one hand to operate the four knife-edged wheel. A specialized design lets this tool shift so that it can make out-of-round cuts as well as cut an entire pipe with a one-third turn.

Great Neck Saw Pipe Flaring Tool

The Great Neck Saw Pipe Flaring Tool can produce a single flare on tubing with no possibility of crushing. It can make a smooth flare on all standard high pressure fittings, including sizes 3/16 to 5/8 inches.

Bend Pak Blue Bullet Heavy Duty Pipe Bender

The Bend Pak Blue Bullet Heavy Duty Pipe Bender is a solid steel, electric machine that can be used for all necessary flaring and expanding with a maximum capacity of 3 inches. It also features a degree plate for easy viewing, an internal expander and a high speed clamp-less swager.

RIDGID Model 345 Flaring Tool 45 Degrees

The RIDGID Model 345 Flaring Tool 45 Degrees can flare brass, aluminum, soft copper and mild steel tubing in seven sizes ranging from 3/16 to 5/8 inches. Its center yoke is inclined to a 45 degree angle.

Superior Tool Company Papco Style Flaring Tool

The Superior Tool Company Papco Style Flaring Tool is a small, hand-held tool that can produce 45 degree flares on aluminum, copper, brass, and thin wall tubing in sizes ranging form 3/16 to 5/8 inches.

All vehicles have at least one pipe with a flange connection. The front pipe or header pipe bolted to the manifold uses a flange of some type. Many modern vehicles now connect other components, such as catalytic converters, downstream exhaust pipes and even mufflers, with flange connections. With the car on a lift and a mechanic that knows what he is doing, the repair could take a mere few minutes. With a home repair mechanic laying on his back with limited tools, the repair could become complicated.

Instructions

1

Inspect the pipe with the leaking flange gasket caully before attempting to disconnect it. Front-pipe-to-manifold flanges often require the rear flange to the converter or pipe be separated in order to access the leaking gasket. Sometimes unhooking an exhaust hanger somewhere down the exhaust stream might allow enough flexibility to forgo the rear flange disconnection.

2

Determine how the flange is connected. All front-pipe-to-manifold flanges are secured by nuts to the studs of the manifold. Downstream flange connections may use studs on one side and nuts on the other or simple nuts and bolts. Downstream studs can be distinguished by round heads which, unlike a hex bolt head, cannot be held with a wrench. Studs have grooved notches in their shafts and do not require a box-end wrench for removing the nut. Nut and bolt connections will require the bolt of the head be held stationary (with the wrench) while a ratchet and socket loosen the nut (or another wrench).

3

Disconnect the flange hardware. If necessary, heat the nuts of the connection with an oxyacetylene torch. Using a portable propane torch may not heat the nut up enough or could take a considerable amount of time. Heat just the edges of the nut and not the bolt. This will expand the nut. Once the nut is cherry red, turn off the torch and remove the nut. For front pipes, a ratchet, long extension and socket are most likely required.

4

Repeat for each nut and stud/bolt connection of the flange until all retaining hardware is removed. The studs will remain intact on their respective exhaust components.

5

Separate the flange connection. This is where the exhaust pipe hanger tool may come in handy. Releasing one or more exhaust hangers near the flange connection may give the exhaust system enough flexibility to access the mating surfaces of each mating flange. As mentioned earlier, it may also require separating the other connection of the exhaust component with the compromised flange gasket.

6

Clean each flange connections mating surface with emery cloth or medium-grit sandpaper, after allowing the exhaust system to cool down, if a torch was used.

7

Apply a level amount of high-temp Perma-Tex (O2 sensor-safe) compound on both sides of the gasket. Place the gasket between the flanges. On most flange connections, theres a small piece of pipe protruding on the inside of the flange to place the gasket on, depending on the type of application. Some front pipe gaskets are called "donut" gaskets and fit into a ball-flared exhaust pipe.

8

Reconnect the flange connection, after replacing the system on hangers, if applicable, with new hardware (nuts, bolts, washers and lock washers).

9

Start the vehicle and check the flange connection for leaks. If necessary, re-tighten the hardware.

The exhaust system in your vehicle is attached at various points along the vehicles frame. The system uses an assortment of clamps and hangers to support the exhaust components, as well as to isolate them from excessive vibration. A failure of any of the clamps or hangers will result in the movement of the exhaust system, which will be felt by the driver as vibration. This can often be heard as buzzing noise from underneath the car.

Instructions

1

Lift the vehicle with the jack and place it on the jack stands.

2

Inspect the exhaust hangers and clamps. Look for any cracking or looseness.

3

Tighten any loose clamps or hangers by turning the mounting bolts clockwise with the wrench.

4

Replace any clamps or hangers that appear damaged in any way.

5

Raise the vehicle from the jack stands and remove them. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Inside a vehicles engine houses a myriad of intricately moving parts to propel the car forward. Parts, such as exhaust valves, play a key role in the functioning of the engines cylinder assemblies.

Function

Exhaust valves work inside the cylinder heads to function with the exhaust port, allowing fumes to leave the chamber. The valve itself runs extremely hot due to the lack of cooling from the hot exhaust fumes.

Identification

Exhaust valve problems arise more often than other valve problems because of the extreme heat, about 1200 to 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. Though it is made of strong alloy material, it can erode from burn-out, creating a hole in the side of the valve.

Considerations

Aside from being burned out, improper replacement of a valve can shorten its life. Additionally, excess deposits on the cylinder and valve can create a hotter environment to allow the erosion process to begin and hasten forward.

The exhaust system on your Jeep Wrangler can be replaced to increase the power, fuel economy and performance of your vehicle. Stock exhaust systems do not allow the air to flow from the engine as efficiently as some aftermarket products, creating high exhaust temperatures and decreasing the vehicles power and fuel economy. Replacement exhaust kits may be purchased on-line or at your local auto parts store and installing the new exhaust requires only a ratchet and socket set.

Instructions

Original Exhaust Removal

1

Loosen and remove the clamps that connect the muffler to the exhaust tailpipe with a ratchet and socket.

2

Lubricate the rubber isolators at the frame by spraying them with lubricating fluid.

3

Remove the hangers on the muffler from the rubber isolators on the frame of the vehicle by pulling the hangers out of the rubber isolators. Lower the muffler to the ground.

Replacement Exhaust Installation

4

Place an exhaust clamp at the rear output pipe of the muffler.

5

Lift the muffler into position and insert the output pipe into the stock pipe. Push the hangers on the muffler into the rubber isolators on the frame. Tighten the clamp with a ratchet and socket.

6

Place an exhaust clamp on the output pipe of the muffler. Attach the tailpipe to the muffler and tighten the clamp with a ratchet and socket.

7

Look underneath the vehicle and confirm that no wires are touching the exhaust system.

8

Start the vehicle and check for leaks.

Exhaust manifold leaks are obvious, especially when first starting the engine. As the engine warms, the metal of the manifold and engine block expand and quiet the leak. Manifold leaks can vary in sound from a loud exhaust leak to a subtle ticking sound -- often misdiagnosed as a faulty lifter in the valves. In some cases, testing the manifold can require lifting the vehicle. Manifold to block connections can be tested from the engine compartment or under the vehicle. The use of a stethoscope will undeniably pinpoint a leak and its location.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and apply the parking brake. Open the hood (even if the vehicle is being lifted to test the manifold, the open hood will offer more lighting to see better underneath the vehicle). If there is no need to lift the vehicle to test the manifold to block connection, proceed to Step 4.

2

Place a wheel chock against the outer tread of one of the rear tires for extra protection (if lifting the vehicle).

3

Hoist the front of the vehicle up with a jack and place it onto jack stands (one side at a time).

4

Put on the safety glasses and gloves and then start the engine.

5

Put the stethoscope on (and crawl under the hoisted vehicle, if applicable) and run the tip of the stethoscope along the manifold to engine block connection. Be aware of moving engine parts and loose fitting clothes; especially if testing from the engine compartment area. Also be aware that it will not take long for the front exhaust system to get extremely hot. Be sure arms and hands are well covered and protected.

6

Check the manifold to engine block connection thoroughly. The moment the tip of the stethoscope gets near a leak, the sound will intensify greatly. Check for leaks in other locations along the manifold to block connection and even check the front exhaust pipe to manifold connection.

Car enthusiasts will often modify a cars exhaust system in order to increase the engine performance or get the noise of the engine to achieve a specific pitch. It requires good knowledge of your cars exhaust system, but it can be completed with a minimum of fuss, provided you follow some basic guidelines.

Instructions

1

Raise the car up on a jack or a hydraulic lift so that you can comfortably work on the exhaust system.

2

Note the part of the exhaust system you wish to modify and the point in the line at which it is found. You may also want to note any part of the system which is fused or rusted, since these will be more difficult to remove.

3

Disconnect each part of the exhaust system, one by one, until you reach the part you want to modify. Generally, a welding torch is required, though you may be able to achieve this simply by removing the bolts that connect it. Take care not to damage any surrounding components in the process.

4

Disconnect the old exhaust part you wish to modify and replace it with the new exhaust part. Bolt it or hang it in place on the chassis, but do not tighten the bolts yet. Check that all of the components work correctly before finalizing the addition.

5

Attach the remainder of the original exhaust system to the new part, working backwards down the line until you reach the end of the exhaust system.

6

Check that each connection is in place and there are no leaks or backups.

7

Secure each connection by tightening the bolts or welding them back into place on the chassis.

8

Start the car engine and check the exhaust system for any leaks or blockage. Make sure exhaust is coming from the end of the tailpipe as it should and that the sound is modified correctly by the muffler, and locate and seal any leaks.

9

Adjust the tailpipe to make sure it is flush with the rear bumper and is not too low to the ground.

You can replace the exhaust system on the Jeep Wrangler in pieces or completely from the engine to the rear of the Jeep. The system uses a header pipe, a catalytic converter, and a muffler and tailpipe assembly. In most cases the muffler and tailpipe assembly is the only section you will replace, unless you are adding a performance system. The entire system bolts together and hangs onto a few rubber hangers for ease of replacement.

Instructions

1

Jack up the Jeep and support all four corners by placing jack stands under the frame rails. Get the Jeep high enough to work comfortably under it while still allowing you to reach all the bolts.

2

Remove the two rubber hangers that hold the tailpipe assembly behind the axle. They will just pull off the mounts on the frame with a little effort.

3

Locate the flange where the muffler and tailpipe assembly joins the catalytic converter. Remove the two bolts, using a wrench or socket and ratchet, and separate the flange. Slide the muffler and tailpipe out from under the Jeep.

4

Locate the flange at the front of the catalytic converter, and remove the three bolts in that flange using a wrench or socket and ratchet. Remove the converter from the Jeep by sliding it out of the rubber hanger to the left side of the converter.

5

Locate the four studs on the base of the exhaust manifold where the head pipe attaches. Remove the four nuts using a deep socket and ratchet.

6

Remove the head pipe by lowering it down from the Jeep. Install the new head pipe by sliding it up into position and installing the four nuts onto the studs. Do not tighten them completely yet.

7

Install the new catalytic converter by first sliding the mounting rod into the rubber mount under the Jeep. Align the mounting flange with the one on the head pipe, and loosely install the three mounting bolts.

8

Slide the new muffler and tailpipe assembly into position under the Jeep, and slide the two mounting rods into the rubber mounts on the frame rail. Align the mounting flange with the flange at the back of the catalytic converter, and install the two bolts that connect them.

9

Start at the head pipe and tighten the bolts, working your way toward the back of the Jeep until all the bolts are tight. Check each location where the pipes join to be sure there are no exhaust leaks.

As the engine in your Jeep Comanche runs, hot exhaust gases are expelled from the combustion chamber into the exhaust manifold. The gases are kept in check by a series of exhaust gaskets, most notably the exhaust manifold gasket. If the exhaust manifold gasket is damaged or leaking, the engine will produce excessive noise, and the exhaust gases will escape into the engine compartment instead of exiting out the tailpipe as they should. Replacing the gasket is fairly straightforward, and you will need only a few tools to complete the job.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of your Comanche and prop it open. Remove the negative cable from the battery by turning the bolt counterclockwise with the wrench.

2

Locate the exhaust manifold bolts and spray them with the penetrating oil. The bolts are usually corroded into place, so if possible allow the oil to soak into the bolts for a few hours.

3

Loosen the exhaust manifold bolts by turning them counterclockwise with the socket. Pull the exhaust manifold from the engine. Remove any of the old gasket with the scraper.

4

Coat the exhaust manifold bolts with anti-seize compound. Slide the new gasket into place between the exhaust manifold and the engine. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts by turning them clockwise with the socket. Start with the inside bolts and work toward the outside as you tighten.

5

Reattach the negative cable to the battery by turning the bolt clockwise with the wrench. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

Installing a custom exhaust can increase horsepower to your vehicle, and give your ride a quality sound that can really change your feelings about the car. This is something that can be done at home on your own, but it does involve some special skills and tools to get the job done correctly. In this case, the project is welding a muffler onto an exhaust on a 1999 Honda Civic to demonstrate proper exhaust welding techniques, but the process is the same for welding the rest of the exhaust, as well.

Instructions

1

Lift up the vehicle using the jack, and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

2

Cut off the factory muffler using the reciprocating saw, just behind the factory muffler. This is a rough cut, so dont worry about how accurate it is; just make the cut as close to the muffler as possible, so that you have room to work with later.

3

Remove the factory muffler from the exhaust hanger using the 24-inch pry bar. Place the muffler to the side.

4

Mount the new muffler with the vehicle-specific exhaust hanger onto the exhaust using the hanger on the muffler. The rear section wont be hooked up, so it will hang off to the back.

5

Pick up the muffler and hold the entry point to the muffler to the cut end on the exhaust tubing. Mark the exhaust tubing with the permanent marker where the muffler will connect. You want it to be as accurate as possible; that way, you can get a nice,flush fit.

6

Cut the exhaust, using the reciprocating saw, along the permanent marker line. Then hold up the muffler to check fit. If the exhaust doesnt line up, then cut off more exhaust tubing until it does.

7

Put on the welding gloves. Hold up the muffler with one hand, positioning the entry point to the muffler next to the exhaust tubing, as close as possible. Then place a small tack weld on the side of the tubing, welding the two pieces together. Do the same on the opposite side of the exhaust, so that its held in place. A tack weld is a short weld, typically less than one second in duration, meant to hold two pieces together before its finish-welded, just in case you need to break the welds apart.

8

Set the MIG welder to weld thin sheet metal, at a low voltage and speed. This will ensure that you dont blow through the steel as youre welding. Put the welding helmet on and weld the seam together, using slow movements around the tubing. You want to keep the welder steady and at the same length from the tubing at all points, and make sure the weld goes all the way around the tubing.

9

Start the vehicle and listen for exhaust leaks. If you hear any, weld up the hole using the welder. Otherwise, lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the jack and place it on the ground.

An exhaust valve allows cylinder head gasses to escape, Expensive engine work is often necessary when an exhaust valve breaks. Though repair is needed once this occurs, having information on what caused the valve breakage might be important.

Types

There are two types of breakage to which exhaust valves can fall victim. One type involves a breakage where the head and the stem connect. A break can also occur at the point of the stem where the keeper-grooves have been built in.

Head Breakage

Exhaust valves can experience this type of breakage because of stretching that occurs due to constant heat. Thermal shock negatively effects exhaust valves, because sudden drops in the engines temperature causes them to break.

Stem Breakage

Heavy wear in the keeper grooves will cause the stem to snap off an exhaust valve. Constant sideloading can cause stem breakage if the stem height has not been installed correctly.

Automotive exhaust systems muffle exhaust noise and reduce exhaust emissions. While materials and configuration differ among various cars and trucks, all exhaust systems can be broken down into three general sections: the exhaust manifold/headers, the mid-pipe and the muffler/tailpipe.

Exhaust Manifold/Headers

Looking to the front of the engine, the first portion of an exhaust is referred to either as an exhaust manifold or a header. Generally, a header will have individual runners for each exhaust cylinder, whereas an exhaust manifold is one large section, which contains a collector into which all the exhaust gases dump. Many manufacturers now include a catalytic converter into this portion to help reduce cold-start emissions. Note that V8, V10 and V12 engines have two banks and thus a manifold on each side of the engine.

Mid-pipe

The mid-pipe will be the middle portion of an exhaust, starting under and behind the engine, where it meets the exhaust manifold/header. This portion usually contains the mufflers of an exhaust system. In V8 applications, this portion may be an H or X pipe, where the two sides are connected to help equalize gases in a dual exhaust. While a V8 has only a single exhaust, a crossover pipe will run from one side to meet up with the single mid-pipe. Catalytic converters are typically mounted at this point, between the exhaust manifold and the mid-pipe.

When a company refers to a "cat-back" exhaust system, it usually means a system which starts at the mid-pipe, and thus starts behind the catalytic converter.

Some systems may have resonators, devices designed to help muffle the exhaust gas notes, in this portion of the system.

Muffler/Tail-pipe

The tailpipe will meet the mid-pipe near the rear of the vehicle and directs the exhaust gases out to the atmosphere. Some smaller vehicles may have the muffler integrated into the tailpipe section, as the muffler can only go where there is sufficient space.

Vehicle exhaust removal is important whenever working on an automobile in an enclosed space. In some garages and work areas, permanent exhaust removal systems may prove too large or inefficient to install. Portable exhaust removal systems are an alternative that allow for larger work areas without sacrificing the safety benefits of proper ventilation.

Why Exhaust Removal is Necessary

Whenever a vehicle engine is running, it is either operating on an electric charge or burning some type of fuel, generally gasoline. According to OnlineLawyerSource.com, the greatest exposure to toxic gasoline fumes occurs when the engine is on during the driving of cars as well as their refueling. Gasoline fumes can cause dizziness, nervous system problems, vomiting and even the loss of consciousness. Additionally, the fumes can increase facility upkeep expenses and can corrode the electronic systems of service equipment. In large garages that may not have an exhaust removal system port for each area, it is important that each running vehicle not connected to the main removal system be hooked up to a portable exhaust removal system.

Portable System Components

Portable exhaust removal systems contain a motorized blower that collects exhaust fumes directly from the vehicles exhaust system. The fumes are sucked in through a 3 1/2- to 4 1/2-inch hose that connects snugly to the vehicle. A fan mounted in an airtight polyethylene case generates the suction and expulsion pressure for moving the vapors.The fumes are then expelled outside through an outlet hose positioned through an open window or door. The removal systems operate on electricity, and they do not circulate fumes through the workspace. Many have mounting brackets for holding the hoses in place, and the main units are generally on wheels for increased portability. Keep in mind that most portable exhaust removal systems are only equipped to handle single-tailpipe vehicles.

Vendors

Airflow Systems, Inc. and JohnDow Industries are two companies that specialize in portable exhaust removal systems. Most of their portable systems are available for around $1,100. The cost is minimal compared to permanent exhaust removal systems for which extensive planning, installation and routine maintenance is necessary. To get a quote for your garage or shop, visit a vendors website and search for a local distributor in your area. Your local specialist will be able to provide you with detailed information about the portable exhaust removal system youre interested in and whether it is equipped to handle your automobile work.

First produced in 1968, the Ford 460 used a pair of one-piece exhaust manifolds to direct the engines exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes. Between the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold is a gasket designed to prevent exhaust leaks. When the gasket fails, often a puffing sound can be heard as the exhaust gases leak out of the manifold. More often than not, however, the first indication of a manifold leak is the strong odor of dangerous exhaust gases inside the vehicle. For this reason, a new gasket should be installed immediately.

Instructions

1

Remove the exhaust manifolds securing nuts or bolts with a socket wrench and with an open-end wrench. Although the design of the 460s exhaust manifold remained the same throughout its production, there were variations of its fasteners. Some manifolds used only retaining bolts, while others instead featured studs and nuts. With either design, both types of wrenches are necessary to remove the fasteners. Use the open-end wrench to access the fasteners that the socket wrench cannot access.

2

Pull the exhaust manifold off the cylinder head to access the manifolds gasket. Tap on the bottom of the manifold with a rubber mallet to dislodge it if the manifold is stuck.

3

Peel the exhaust manifold gasket off of either the cylinder head or the manifold, depending on which surface the gasket adhered to. The portion of the gasket which failed can be identified by a black burn mark.

4

Position a new exhaust-manifold gasket onto the manifold or, if the engine instead features studs, slide the gasket onto the studs and against the cylinder head. The 460s exhaust-manifold gasket is self-sealing, meaning that gasket sealant must not be applied to the gasket.

5

Place the exhaust manifold against the cylinder head, then tighten the exhaust manifolds fasteners to between 30 and 35 ft-lbs. of torque with a torque wrench.

Due to environmental and operational factors, automotive exhaust systems degrade over time and may require repair. While some elements of an exhaust are expensive and difficult or impossible to repair on your own, many common exhaust problems can be easily and effectively repaired by a shop or owner.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle on jack stands, using a hydraulic jack. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (always a safe precaution when working on a car).

2

Examine the exhaust to identify the failure point once the vehicle is on jack stands. Make sure the exhaust is cold as once an exhaust warms up, it may mask a leak. Use a bottle of soapy water if needed to help find a leak. Spray down a suspected area liberally and watch to see bubbles or other signs of escaping gas.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold if you discover that it is leaking. Spray down the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold with penetrating oil and allow to sit for at least 20 minutes. Remove the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the downstream exhaust pipe or catalytic converter. Then remove the bolts connecting the manifold to the engine block. Once removed inspect the manifold for leaks. If there is a crack in the manifold, it should be replaced, or taken to an exhaust shop to be repaired. If the gasket is burnt or torn, then replace with a new gasket and re-install.

4

Patch the muffler with an exhaust patch kit if you discover that the muffler has been damaged. Patch kits typically will be a metal tape with an adhesive backing that can be applied directly over the damaged section.

5

Broken hangers can be repaired if a broken hanger is causing the exhaust to hang or drag. An exhaust shop can repair the broken hanger, or you can use a generic exhaust clamp kit that will clamp around the exhaust pipe and thus support the muffler.

An exhaust leak can be frustrating. While exhaust leaks are often difficult to identify, worn exhaust manifold gaskets are often the problem. Removing worn exhaust manifold gaskets and replacing them with new gaskets on a Buick LeSabre is a small, inexpensive project for a do-it-yourself mechanic. With a few tools and a bit of time, you can remove failing exhaust manifold gaskets and replace them with new gaskets to increase the performance of your Buick LeSabre.

Instructions

1

Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.

2

Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.

3

Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.

4

Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.

5

Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets.

The Pontiac G6 is an entry-level sports sedan that replaced the Pontiac Grand Am in 2004. It has a sports car look and is often modified for performance and cosmetics. One relatively inexpensive way to modify these cars is to add an upgraded exhaust tip. These exhaust tips come in a number of different styles, such as single chrome tips, dual and custom-shaped tips, and even some very exotic ones.

Single Tip

The most basic upgrade is a single, chrome exhaust tip. These tips are typically welded to the factory exhaust and add a slightly more custom look. Single exhaust tips can be purchased for less the $20 from on-line retailers and then taken to local exhaust shops for installation.

Dual and Custom Tips

The G6 comes standard from the factory with single exhaust, meaning the tailpipe terminates in a single tip. However, by adding a dual exhaust tip it gives the impression of a more robust exhaust system. Alternately, a wider, oblong or box-shaped exhaust tip can be installed just as easily as a single tip and can be purchased for less than $25.

Exotic Tips

If a single or dual chrome tip is too subtle, there are a number of exotic tips that do much more than vent exhaust gases. Street Beat Customs and other on-line retailers sell exhaust tips that have LED lights around the tips and even exhaust tips that increase or change the sound of the car. These exotic tips cost more than tamer chrome tips, starting at $40 for noise-making tips and more than $80 for LED tips.