Repair And Fix it

The Ford Ranger pickup truck comes with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. It may have a 6-cylinder 3.0L or a 6-cylinder 4.0L engine, and all versions of the Ford Ranger use electronic fuel injection. The fuel pump on this vehicle uses high pressure, and is located on the fuel tank. This makes it necessary to remove the fuel tank before replacing the fuel pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system, and disconnect the fuel tank. Clean the area around the attaching flange for the fuel pump with a shop rag. This will prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank when you replace the fuel pump.

2

Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counter-clockwise with a locking ring removal tool. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank, including the bracket. Remove the gasket for the fuel pump.

3

Apply a thin layer of heavy grease to the new fuel pump gasket, and install it into the ring groove on the fuel tank. Place the new fuel pump assembly into position in the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump, and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

4

Connect the fuel tank onto the vehicle, and put at least ten gallons of gas into the fuel tank. Fix any fuel leaks, and connect a pressure gauge to the throttle body valve. Turn the ignition on for three seconds without starting the engine, and turn it off for three seconds. Repeat this at least five times to pressurize the fuel system to at least 30 pounds per square inch, or PSI.

5

Check the vehicle and fix any leaks. Disconnect the pressure gauge, and start the engine. Check the vehicle again, and fix any leaks.

The starter on the 2002 Toyota Camry is a cylindrical piece located on the lower part of the engine on the drivers side of the vehicle. Its positioned between the transmission and transmission cross member and is bolted to the bell housing. The starter is responsible for the initial cranking power needed to turn the engines pistons.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable connector from the battery with a crescent wrench. This cuts off power to the Camrys starter.

2

Remove the wiring harness from the starter solenoid by pulling the wire connector off the male connector on the solenoid.

3

Disconnect the black grounding wire from the side of the starter by removing the bolt with a crescent wrench.

4

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing with a 9/16 socket.

5

Pull the old starter out of the bell housing and then place the new starter into the bell housing.

6

Bolt the starter in place.

7

Reconnect the ground wire to the side of the Camrys starter.

8

Reconnect the starter solenoid wiring harness.

9

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The Dodge Ram pickup truck was introduced in 1981 and quickly became the most successful pickup truck in the Dodge lineup. Dodge manufactures the Ram on either a van platform or a truck platform. Both versions utilize the same side view mirrors, so the replacement process is the same.

Instructions

1

Press the left side of the passenger mirror into the mirror shell of the Dodge Ram. By pushing the left side of the mirror into the shell, the right side of the mirror is forced out of the shell. This allows you to grasp the mirror with your hand.

2

Place your fingers on the backside of the Rams mirror and press your thumb against the front side of the mirror. Pull out on the mirror to separate the mounting brackets from the ball-joint located inside the mirror shell.

3

Place the new mirror into the shell and press on the center of the mirror with your fist to push the mounting brackets around the ball-joint.

4

Adjust your new mirror to meet your driving needs.

The 2000 model year Dodge Neon uses a hydraulic pump to create pressure that assists the driver in steering the vehicle. The hydraulically assisted steering, commonly known as power steering, is especially helpful at lower speeds when the driver must use more effort to steer. Maintenance and removal of power steering components may require removing the hydraulic hoses that flow to and from the power steering pump.

Instructions

Removal

1

Locate the power steering gear near the front left wheel and determine if you can access the hose attachments well enough to remove them.

2

Remove the negative battery cable to ensure all steering components will be disabled.

3




Jack the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Do this step only if you cannot access the hose connections at the power steering gear from the engine compartment or without raising the car.

4

Siphon as much fluid from the power steering pump reservoir as possible to reduce spillage.

5

Remove all hose clamps from the hose you will replace.

6

Loosen the hose nut at the power steering pump if you are removing the pressure hose. The return hose is only secured with a clamp.

7

Position a small bucket or other container underneath the hose as you remove it. Drain as much fluid into the container as possible to minimize hazardous fluid spills from reaching the ground. If you were able to siphon the reservoir, this step may not be necessary.

8

Disconnect the lower end of the hose. Try to contain spillage in a container.

Installation

9

Install the lower end of the new hose. Tighten the hose nut if it is a pressure or the hose clamp for the return hose. Tighten the hose nut to 25 foot-pounds of torque.

10

Route the hose upward along the same path it ran before it was removed. Install the upper part of the hose and tighten the clamp or hose nut. Tighten the hose nut to 25 foot-pounds of torque.

11

Reinstall the front wheels and lower the car if it was raised for access.

12

Reinstall all the hose clamps that were removed.

13

Refill the power steering reservoir with new fluid.

14

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

A blower motor takes still air and forces it in one direction. In cars, theyre an essential part of the air conditioner because they blow air through an evaporator and into the cabin. Blower motors can move air at different speeds by switching between different resistances. Resistors with low impedance let the motor spin faster and high impedances make it spin slower. A short circuit can damage the resistors in your blower motor and the only way to fix them is to replace them.

Instructions

1

Disassemble your blower motor and expose the electronics inside.

2

Inspect the resistors in your blower motor. They are either a small coil with electrical connections or are a removable part of an integrated circuit board. Damaged resistors may appear and smell burnt, or look melted.

3

Remove the screws holding the resistor to the board, then remove the resistor from the motor.

4

Insert the replacement resistor in the same place as the old one and secure it with screws. Ensure that no stray wires or connections are touching the resistor.

A car battery does not last forever, and you will need to get a new one at some point. In most cars, the battery is visible as soon as you pop the hood and look inside the engine compartment. On the Chevrolet Equinox, the battery is in its own separate compartment. But replacing the battery is a fairly simple task, so save yourself some money and do the job yourself.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and locate the battery compartment. It sits under the computer module on the drivers side, near the fender apron.

2

Unsnap the clips on the computer module and lift it away from the battery compartment. Lay it off to the side.

3

Remove the three Phillips screws holding the battery cover in place. Lift the cover off and set it aside.

4

Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables with a wrench. Lift the battery out of the compartment and set it aside.

5

Place the new battery in the compartment. Connect the positive and negative battery cables.

6

Reposition the cover on the battery compartment. Tighten the three Phillips screws. Dont overtighten the screws or you will damage the threads.

7

Reposition the computer module and make sure it locks into place.

The Chevrolet Lumina is a series of coupes, minivans and sedans manufactured from 1990 to 2001. The replacement fuel pump for these vehicles depends on the engine, which may be a six-cylinder 3.4 L engine or a 3.1 L engine. All versions of the 1997 Lumina have sequential fuel injection, meaning that the electric fuel pump on these vehicles uses high pressure to deliver fuel to the fuel injectors. You can access the fuel pump on most 1997 Luminas through a removable access panel in the trunk.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the filler cap for the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail, and connect special tool J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure port. Place the bleed hose for this special tool into a gasoline container. Open the valve on the special tool to bleed the fuel in the fuel system into the gasoline container.

2

Drain the fuel tank to 1/4 of its capacity, and remove the jack, spare tire and spare tire cover from the trunk. Take out the trunk liner, and unfasten the retaining nuts for the access panel with a socket wrench. Remove the panel, and disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.

3

Clean the fuel sender assembly with a shop rag, and disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender assembly. Remove the retaining snap ring on the fuel sender assembly with a socket wrench, so that the fuel sender assembly springs up. Remove the fuel sender assembly without handling the fuel pipes. Discard the old O-ring and clean the sealing surfaces for the O-ring.

4

Place the new O-ring on the fuel tank and install the new fuel sender assembly onto the fuel tank. Avoid folding the fuel strainer and ensure that the fuel strainer does not impede the movement of the float arm for the fuel gauge after the installation is complete.

5

Replace the retaining snap ring for the fuel sender assembly, and turn the snap ring clockwise with a socket wrench until it fully seats with the fuel tanks tab slots. Attach the electrical connector and quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender assembly. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery, and fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank.

6

Turn the ignition switch for 2 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition back on and check for leaks in the fuel system. Replace the access cover in the trunk and tighten the retaining nuts to 96 inch-pounds. Replace the trunk liner, jack, spare tire and spare tire cover.

The Ford Probe was a two-door coupe that Ford manufactured from 1989 to 1997. The 1996 model is a member of the second generation of Probes that includes the 1993 to 1997 models. Ford Probes may have a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine or a six-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine. All versions of this vehicle have multiport fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure fuel pump. You must remove the fuel tank of a Ford Probe in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and remove the fuel-pump relay in the engine compartment. Allow the engine to stall and turn off the ignition. Replace the fuel-pump relay.

2

Drain the fuel tank and remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and exhaust-pipe insulator. Remove the electrical connectors and fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and disconnect the support straps for the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle with the jack stands.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counterclockwise with a brass drift and hammer. Disconnect the locking ring from the fuel pump and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket.

4

Put the new gasket into position on the fuel tank and install the new fuel pump. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump clockwise until the flange on the locking ring reaches the stopper. Connect the fuel lines for the fuel pump.

5

Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and add at least 3 gallons of fuel to the fuel tank. Check the fuel system for leaks, and lower the vehicle. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

General Motors has manufactured a series of diesel engines under the Duramax brand since 2001. The primary application for these eight-cylinder, 6.6-liter engines is in heavy trucks requiring low-end torque, like full-size Chevrolet pickups and vans. A Duramax diesel engine uses fuel injectors to send fuel to the cylinders under high pressure. The replacement of the fuel injectors is a relatively simple process, but it also requires the removal of various components to access the injectors.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and drain the coolant from the radiator into a suitable container. Detach the electrical connector for the air cooler from the left side of the turbocharger. Unplug the barometric sensors electrical connector.

2

Disconnect the clip for the wiring harness on the engine, and remove the wiring harness bracket with a socket wrench. Unplug the electrical connector for the glow plug. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose from the left side of the crankcase.

3

Use a socket wrench to disconnect the air cleaner outlet duct from the right side of the engine. Loosen the clamps on the hose to the air intake on the right side of the engine and remove the hose. Disconnect the fuel filter and fuel filter bracket from the right side of the engine. Disconnect the fuel injector control module.

4

Blow compressed air on the fuel lines for the fuel injector. Clean the fuel lines with a shop rag.

5

Detach the fuel send and return lines from the fuel injectors. Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel injector. Disconnect the bolts on the fuel injector bracket, and install injector removal tool J-46594 into one of the bolt holes. Attach a flare nut wrench to the other end of the injector removal tool and pull the flare nut wrench to unseat the fuel injector.

6

Lift the fuel injector from its bore. Discard the O-rings and copper washer for the fuel injector.

7

Mount a new copper washer and O-rings to the new fuel injector. Install the fuel injector, and tighten the bolts on the fuel injector bracket to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector and fuel lines to the fuel injectors. Torque the mounting bolts for the fuel lines to 30 foot-pounds.

8

Complete the installation of the fuel injectors by performing steps 1 through 3 in reverse order. Refill the coolant in the radiator. Start the engine and check for any fluid leaks.

The Lexus GS is a mid-size luxury sedan that has been in production since 1993. The 2002 model is a second generation Lexus, which includes the 1997 through 2005 models. The 2002 Lexus GS 300 has a six-cylinder 3.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the rotations of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt should last at least 60,000 miles before requiring replacement.

Instructions

1

Remove any components needed to access the upper timing belt cover. Disconnect the eight mounting bolts on the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench and remove the upper cover.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a hex wrench to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with the timing marks on the lower timing cover.

3

Disconnect the timing belt tensioner and its dust cover with a socket wrench. Remove the lower timing belt covers and the guide for the timing belt. Rotate the pulley for the right camshaft clockwise slightly to relieve the tension on the timing belt, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Replace the lower timing cover and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Turn the right camshaft pulley clockwise to align its timing mark with the corresponding timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. Turn the left camshaft pulley clockwise to align its timing mark.

5

Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft pulley. Align its installation mark with the edge of the lower timing belt cover.

6

Place the timing belt on the left camshaft pulley and align the left camshaft timing mark on the timing belt with the timing mark on the left camshaft. Align the timing mark on the left camshaft with its corresponding mark on the lower timing belt cover. Repeat this step with the right camshaft.

7

Place a plate washer between the engine block and the timing belt tensioner. Press the push rod for the tensioner into its housing to align the hole in the push rod with the hole in the housing. Insert a 0.05 inch Allen wrench into the holes to hold the push rod in place.

8

Replace the dust cover for the tensioner, and install the tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolts for the tensioner to 20 ft- lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the Allen wrench from the hole in the push rod housing to apply the correct tension to the timing belt.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full turns and align the timing marks once again. Replace the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Install any components removed in step one to access the timing belt.

The Mercury Cougar is a model of car manufactured by the Lincoln-Mercury division of Ford Motor Company. The 1991 Mercury Cougar is a full-size coupe that belongs to the seventh generation of these vehicles. It may have a six-cylinder 3.8L engine or an eight-cylinder 5.0L engine. The fuel pump in a 1991 Mercury Cougar attaches to the fuel tank, so replacing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank and remove the cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and place its drain hose in a gasoline container. Open the pressure gauge and drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.

2

Raise the vehicle and support its rear end with jack stands. Siphon as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible and disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust shields from the fuel tank. Place a floor jack under the fuel tank and place a plank of wood on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the nuts for the retaining strap on the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the fuel lines electrical wiring from the fuel tank. Remove the air deflector from the retaining straps of the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank and remove it from the vehicle.

3

Clean the area around the retaining flange for the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump counterclockwise and detach the locking ring. Disconnect the fuel pump and bracket from the fuel tank and discard the seal ring.

4

Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump and the groove for the seal ring on the fuel tank. Apply a thin layer of grease to the new seal ring and place the seal ring into the groove on the fuel tank. Connect the new fuel pump and bracket to the fuel tank without damaging the fuel filter. Align the keys on the fuel pump with the holes on the mounting bracket. Install the locking ring to the fuel pump so that the locking tabs on the locking ring are under the ring tabs on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring clockwise until it reaches the limit of its travel.

5

Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and lower the vehicle. Put at least 10 gallons of fuel in the fuel tank. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the relief valve and connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on for three seconds at a time until the fuel pressure reaches 35 psi. Remove the pressure gauge and cover the relief valve with the cap. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The catalytic converter happens to be one of the most expensive parts of a car to fix, which leads many people to try to repair it at home. You have to know your way around cars and exhaust systems, or youre honestly better off taking it to a mechanic. If youre comfortable working on it yourself, there are a few things you should keep in mind.

Instructions

1

Lift your car. Unfortunately, the catalytic converter sits about midway down the length of your car, so lifting one end or the other will not do. Ramps are your best bet to get you within reach of the parts when working from home. Luckily, this is usually the hardest part of this repair.

2

Be patient with the bolts, as they are often hard to remove due to size and awkward placement. You may have to drill or saw bolts to remove them. With this in mind, you should pick up new bolts, nuts and seals for your replacement project.

3

Buy a catalytic converter specific to your car to avoid extra work. A generic part must be welded into the car, while a vehicle-specific model comes pre-welded to the proper pipes for easy bolt-on installation.

4

Remove the 02 sensor (with an O2 wrench) before unbolting the catalytic converter. Then, you should remove the pipe connecting the sensor to the converter. Depending on your exhaust system, you may have to remove more pipes before you unbolt the converter from the muffler.

5

Replace the old catalytic converter with a new one. This should be the easy part, as you simply bolt the new part in place.

6

Reattach the exhaust pipes and 02 sensor, and the basic job is done. Make sure you replace any cracked or rusty pipes while you have the exhaust system apart.

If the check engine light on the dash of your Jeep is on, stop into an auto parts store and ask them to scan your Jeep for codes. Nearly all major auto parts store offer this service for free. Failure of the oxygen sensor is a common problem, but the part can be changed at home, saving you a major repair bill. The oxygen sensors are in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the catalytic converter on the Jeep Wrangler. You will need a special socket to remove the oxygen sensor, available at most auto parts stores and tool supply stores.

Instructions

1

Lift the Jeep with a jack and support it on all four corners with a set of jack stands. The oxygen or O2 sensors are in the exhaust under the middle of the Jeep, so you will have to lift the entire Jeep to access them effectively.

2

Locate the two O2 sensors in the exhaust system. The first one is near the center of the transmission, and the second is between the resonator and the catalytic converter. Unplug the wiring harness connectors from both sensors by lifting the locking tab with a small flat screwdriver and pulling them from the harness.

3

Remove the O2 sensors, one at a time, using a oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet. Turn the sensor counter-clockwise to remove it from the exhaust. Discard the old sensor.

4

Install the two new sensors into the threaded sections of the exhaust where you removed the old ones from. The two sensors used by Jeep are identical, so either one is fine in each hole.

5

Tighten the sensors with an oxygen sensor socket and a torque wrench to 22 foot-pounds. Do not use thread locker, anti-seize or any other compound on the threads of the sensor.

6

Insert the wiring harness connectors on both sensors into the plugs on the wiring harness. Verify that they lock into the connector by checking the tab to see that it is engaged.

7

Remove the jack stands and lower the Jeep to the ground. Test run the engine and check your CEL or check engine light to ensure it has gone off.

The cooling system inside of the Grand Prix 3.1-liter engines comes equipped with a spring-loaded thermostat that opens and closes according to the temperature of the antifreeze. The thermostat has a bottom spring that compresses and opens the top of the thermostat to allow the antifreeze to flow through the engine block. The main purpose of the thermostat is to prevent the engine from overheating by regulating the flow of the antifreeze through the engine. If the thermostat fails, it has a safety feature that will allow the thermostat to return to the open position.

Instructions

1

Pull the Grand Prix with the 3.1-liter engine into a safe and level work area. Set the emergency brake and open the hood. Shut the motor off and wait two to three hours for the engine to cool down completely.

2

Slowly unscrew the radiator cap and set it to the side. Make sure that the cap is not hot and does not have pressure on it. Slide the drip pan underneath the radiator drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. Loosen the drain plug with the pliers and allow a couple of gallons of coolant to drain into the drain pan. Tighten the drain plug back down tight.

3

Locate the top radiator hose that connects to the top radiator port and the intake manifold. The other end of the radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing on top of the intake manifold. Unscrew the hose clamp from the end of the hose that is attached to the thermostat housing port with the pliers. Pull the clamp back onto the hose. Twist and pull the hose off the thermostat housing port.

4

Unscrew the two thermostat housing mounting bolts with a ratchet and a socket. Pull the housing off and set it to the side. Pull the thermostat out of the intake manifold and discard it into the drain pan. Scrape away any of the old gasket from the base of the intake manifold and the bottom of the thermostat housing. Wipe away the excess gasket, dirt and debris from both places with a clean rag.

5

Spread a thin line of the red high-temperature silicone around the bottom of the thermostat housing. Push the gasket onto the bottom of the housing so that the silicone will hold the gasket in place and act as a extra sealer. Make sure that the bolt holes are matched up on the gasket and the thermostat housing.

6

Set the thermostat housing back over the intake manifold and match the bolt holes up. Screw the two mounting bolts through the thermostat housing and tighten with the ratchet and socket.

7

Push the top radiator hose back over the thermostat housing port and line the hose clamp over the radiator hose and the port. Tighten the clamp with the screwdriver until the hose is securely tightened to the thermostat housing port.

8

Add the antifreeze to the radiator until it is full. Leave the cap off the radiator. Crank the motor and let the engine heat up until the thermostat opens. The thermostat generally opens around 180 degrees. When the thermostat opens, the antifreeze level will drop inside of the radiator. Keep adding more antifreeze to the radiator until the antifreeze stabilizes at the top of the radiator cap. Screw the cap on tight and turn the engine off.

The oil pan in your 2003 V6 Ford Mustang is secured to the bottom of the engine block, and it holds a certain amount of oil for the lubrication system to do its job. If the pan in your Mustang becomes damaged and begins to leak oil, you need to install a new pan. You can replace the pan at home with the help of some special tools.

Instructions

Removing the Used Pan

1

Park your Mustang on level ground. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack. Position two jack stands under the frame for support. Apply the parking brake, and block the rear wheels with chocks.

2

Place a clean, large drain pan under the engine oil pan. Remove the drain plug with a wrench. Allow the oil to drain completely. Cover the pan to keep dirt off the oil for later reuse.

3

Remove the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with a wrench.

4

Detach the upper radiator shield with a ratchet and socket.

5

Slide the drain pan under the oil filter. Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench.

6

Set up engine lifting brackets and a support fixture on top of the engine compartment, and secure the engine.

7

Remove the left and right motor mounts with a ratchet and socket.

8

Take off the starter motor with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket.

9

Unfasten and lower the engine support bracket just enough to gain access to all the oil pan mounting bolts.

10

Detach the wiring harness bracket next to the oil pan. Remove the pan with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

Installing the New Oil Pan

11

Clean the engine block mating surface with a gasket scraper and solvent. Let it dry completely. Apply a light coat of silicone sealant to the oil pan gasket mating surface. Set a new pan gasket on the pan. Position the pan under the engine block. Install the pan mounting bolts, and tighten them with your fingers. Tighten the bolts alternately with a torque wrench, working toward the rear of the engine, to 44 inch-pounds (5 Nm) and then to 88 inch-pounds (10 Nm). Tighten the three bolts that hold the transmission housing bell to 33 foot-pounds (45 Nm). Make sure the pan drain plug is correctly installed.

12

Reinstall the wiring harness to the oil pan and the engine support bracket. Tighten the larger upper bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) and the smaller ones to 68 foot-pounds (90 Nm) with the torque wrench.

13

Replace the starter motor, and tighten the bolts to 18 foot-pounds (15 Nm) with the torque wrench.

14

Install the left and right motor mounts, and tighten the bolts to 85 foot-pounds (115 Nm) with the torque wrench.

15

Replace the oil filter by hand. Replace the upper radiator shield with the ratchet and socket.

16

Lower your Mustang with the floor jack.

17

Connect the black negative battery cable, air cleaner tube and coolant recovery reservoir with the wrench.

18

Refill the engine with oil using a small funnel.

19

Check the oil pan for leaks.

All vehicles have at least one pipe with a flange connection. The front pipe or header pipe bolted to the manifold uses a flange of some type. Many modern vehicles now connect other components, such as catalytic converters, downstream exhaust pipes and even mufflers, with flange connections. With the car on a lift and a mechanic that knows what he is doing, the repair could take a mere few minutes. With a home repair mechanic laying on his back with limited tools, the repair could become complicated.

Instructions

1

Inspect the pipe with the leaking flange gasket caully before attempting to disconnect it. Front-pipe-to-manifold flanges often require the rear flange to the converter or pipe be separated in order to access the leaking gasket. Sometimes unhooking an exhaust hanger somewhere down the exhaust stream might allow enough flexibility to forgo the rear flange disconnection.

2

Determine how the flange is connected. All front-pipe-to-manifold flanges are secured by nuts to the studs of the manifold. Downstream flange connections may use studs on one side and nuts on the other or simple nuts and bolts. Downstream studs can be distinguished by round heads which, unlike a hex bolt head, cannot be held with a wrench. Studs have grooved notches in their shafts and do not require a box-end wrench for removing the nut. Nut and bolt connections will require the bolt of the head be held stationary (with the wrench) while a ratchet and socket loosen the nut (or another wrench).

3

Disconnect the flange hardware. If necessary, heat the nuts of the connection with an oxyacetylene torch. Using a portable propane torch may not heat the nut up enough or could take a considerable amount of time. Heat just the edges of the nut and not the bolt. This will expand the nut. Once the nut is cherry red, turn off the torch and remove the nut. For front pipes, a ratchet, long extension and socket are most likely required.

4

Repeat for each nut and stud/bolt connection of the flange until all retaining hardware is removed. The studs will remain intact on their respective exhaust components.

5

Separate the flange connection. This is where the exhaust pipe hanger tool may come in handy. Releasing one or more exhaust hangers near the flange connection may give the exhaust system enough flexibility to access the mating surfaces of each mating flange. As mentioned earlier, it may also require separating the other connection of the exhaust component with the compromised flange gasket.

6

Clean each flange connections mating surface with emery cloth or medium-grit sandpaper, after allowing the exhaust system to cool down, if a torch was used.

7

Apply a level amount of high-temp Perma-Tex (O2 sensor-safe) compound on both sides of the gasket. Place the gasket between the flanges. On most flange connections, theres a small piece of pipe protruding on the inside of the flange to place the gasket on, depending on the type of application. Some front pipe gaskets are called "donut" gaskets and fit into a ball-flared exhaust pipe.

8

Reconnect the flange connection, after replacing the system on hangers, if applicable, with new hardware (nuts, bolts, washers and lock washers).

9

Start the vehicle and check the flange connection for leaks. If necessary, re-tighten the hardware.

The Buick Century is a mid-size car manufactured by the Buick division of General Motors. The 1993 model belongs to the fifth generation of the Century, produced from 1982 to 1996. The engine in a 1993 Buick Century may be a four-cylinder 2.2L engine or a six-cylinder 3.3L engine. Both of these engines use fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump in the 1993 Buick Century attaches to the fuel tank, which you must remove in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Loosen the filler cap of the fuel tank and raise the the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump and lower the vehicle. Start the engine and allow it to run until the engine stalls. Crank the engine for three seconds to consume any remaining fuel in the fuel lines.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle on jack stands and drain the fuel tank. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel tank, including the ground wire under the body of the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a jack stand and remove the nuts on the fuel tanks retaining strap with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank with the jack stand and remove it from the vehicle.

3

Disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel pump by twisting it and pulling it off the fuel pump. Discard the fuel filter. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit and remove the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Pull the fuel pump from its mounting bracket on the fuel sending unit.

4

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel sender assembly between the mounting bracket and the pulsator. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel sender assembly. Place the fuel filter into position on the fuel pump and push the fuel filter until it is fully seated.

5

Install the fuel sending unit onto the fuel tank and connect the fuel tank. Check the fuel system for leaks and connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench.

Replacing the wheel cover on your 2009 HHR involves one of the preliminary steps necessary to change a tire, and its a fairly simple process. Botching one of the steps, however, or forgetting to ensure the security of your replacement cover could result in damage to your car or even an accident, as covers can go flying if they arent properly secured. Replacing the wheel cover on your 2009 HHR requires thoughtful attention to both the removal of the old cover as well as the placement of the new cover.

Instructions

1

Pry the cover off of your HHRs wheel using a flat-head screwdriver or the flat end of your lug wrench. There will be a small insertion point into which you can place the screwdriver or the lug wrench. A simple prying motion will release the wheel cover.

2

Position the new wheel cover so that the valve stem in the tire extends through valve-stem hole in the wheel cover. Standard HHR tires have 16-inch wheels, so you will need 16-inch replacement covers unless you have modified your HHR with different tires.

3

Secure the wheel cover in place by hand. There is a seam running along the edge of the wheel into which the inner edge of the wheel cover will fit securely. You should be able to move your hands away from the wheel without the wheel cover falling off.

4

Tap around the edges of the wheel cover gently with a soft mallet, hammer or the edge of the lug wrench, depending on how caul you want to be in handling your new wheel cover.

Toyota Rav4s have two catalytic converters. The front one is bolted directly to the manifold in the front of the exhaust system and the second one bolts directly to that. In most cases, the converter that fails will be the rear converter. Converters fail after a while clogging, breaking down internally (which is a result of clogging and overheating), and have inlet or outlet pipes that crack or leak exhaust. Having to replace them requires experience.

Instructions

How to Replace a Toyota Rav 4 Front Catalytic Converter

1

Put the Toyota Rav4 on a car lift and bring all the way up. Put all the listed tools into the tool cart and wheel it near you where its out of the way but where you can access the tools easily. To remove the five nuts going to the manifold, set up the ratchet with a long extension, the swivel, and a socket. In some cases if the nuts are deteriorated, you may need to switch the socket for a nut extractor.

2

Put on the safety glasses and light the torch with the striker. Heat up the nuts with the torch, being caul not to heat the studs up as well. Its a tight area and youll have to know how to handle a torch and adjust the level of flame to be small enough to do the job but hot enough succeed. When the nut is cherry red in color, turn off the torch and remove it with the ratchet, extension, swivel, and socket or nut extractor. Carry on this procedure for the other four nuts.

3

Light the torch and cut the two or three bolts (some of the rear converters have a three-bolt inlet and some have two of the Rav4s) out of the rear flange. Cut them from the front converter side so you do not incur any damage to the rear converter. When the bolts are cut with the torch flush to the flange, turn off the torch, put on the safety gloves, and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange with a punch and hammer. Be ready to get out of the way or catch the front converter as it will drop out as soon as its free.

4

Allow the system to cool down. Install the top of the front converter with a new gasket to the manifold by threading on some new nuts by hand. Tighten them one at a time with the pneumatic gun, extension (either small or long), swivel, and socket until theyre tight.

5

Insert the gasket to the rear of the front converter flange connection and attach with the hardware (bolts, nuts, washers). Tighten with the gun, the small extension (if needed), swivel, and hold the head of the nuts in place with a hand wrench. Remove the cart and tools and any debris on the floor, lower the Rav4, and start it up to check for any possible exhaust leaks.

How to Replace a Toyota Rav 4 Rear Catalytic Converter

6

With the Rav4 raised on a lift, locate the oxygen sensor bolted to the rear converter. Follow the wire to the plug and separate it by unplugging it. You may need the screwdriver to press in the clip lock. As with the front converter, load the tools into the cart and have nearby.

7

Put on the safety glasses and light the torch with the striker. Cut the bolts from the front flange connection with the torch. Cut them from the rear converter side of the flange to avoid damage to the front converter flange. When the bolts are cut flush to the flange, turn off the torch and knock them out with a punch and hammer. Repeat this step for the rear converter to rear exhaust pipe flange. Be caul when the last bolt gets punched through. The converter will want to drop, but youll notice its still affixed to a rubber exhaust hanger. Remove the hook of the converter from the hanger.

8

Remove the bolts from the oxygen sensor studs. They may be deteriorated and you may need the extractor nuts to help you. Dont worry about the nuts or studs and damaging them. Youre going to replace the nuts and the studs are part of the converter. There will be new studs on the new converter. All you need is the oxygen sensor.

9

Insert the oxygen sensor into the new converter. Replace gasket (equipped with new converter) and nuts and tighten with the ratchet, extension, and a socket.

10

Place the hook on the new converter through the rubber hanger and attach the front flange to the front converter with gasket and hardware (bolts, washers, nuts). Attach the rear flange of the converter to the rear exhaust pipe flange with the gasket and hardware. Tighten the bolts and nuts with the gun, swivel, socket, and a hand wrench. Plug the oxygen sensor back into the plug. Remove the cart, tools, and any debris, lower the Rav4 and start the engine to check for any possible exhaust leaks.

The Power Stroke is Fords top tier diesel truck engine that can generate as much as 800 foot-pounds of torque, thanks to a turbocharger. This device is a turbine that is powered by the exhaust gases to push more air into the combustion chambers. By increasing the amount of air in the engine, the combustion process is made more powerful and efficient. However a turbocharger may eventually need to be replaced, since it is subjected to high pressure that can damage parts like turbine blades.

Instructions

1

Turn of the engine and engage the parking brake. Open the hood and place a step stool next to the engine compartment to make it easier to reach the components. Put drop cloths over the fenders to protect the finish. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery to prevent a short circuit.

2

Remove the clips holding the cover of the air filter housing and remove it. Unbolt the bottom of the air filter housing with a wrench and pull the plastic shield out. Unscrew the air intake line O-ring clamp from the front of the turbocharger. Pull the air line off and place it to the side. Unplug the ECU wire from the side of the turbocharger and place it out of the way.

3

Unbolt the turbocharger from the down pipe that leads to the front of the V-8. Then unbolt the turbocharger from the exhaust manifold on the top of the diesel engine. Pull the turbo out caully because it is heavier than it looks. Place the new turbocharger on the exhaust manifold and thread the bolts in by hand. Then thread the bolts in on the down pipe by hand. Once all the bolts are in then wrench the bolts down flush. Plug the ECU wire in on the side of the turbocharger.

4

Place the intake pipe on the front of the new turbocharger and screw the O-ring clamp down tight. Replace the air intake housing and reattach its bolts. Replace the air filter and snap on the top of the air housing. Reconnect the battery cable, remove the drop cloths and close the hood.