Repair And Fix it

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank and remove the cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and place its drain hose in a gasoline container. Open the pressure gauge and drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.

Raise the vehicle and support its rear end with jack stands. Siphon as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible and disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust shields from the fuel tank. Place a floor jack under the fuel tank and place a plank of wood on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the nuts for the retaining strap on the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the fuel lines electrical wiring from the fuel tank. Remove the air deflector from the retaining straps of the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank and remove it from the vehicle.

Clean the area around the retaining flange for the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump counterclockwise and detach the locking ring. Disconnect the fuel pump and bracket from the fuel tank and discard the seal ring.

Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump and the groove for the seal ring on the fuel tank. Apply a thin layer of grease to the new seal ring and place the seal ring into the groove on the fuel tank. Connect the new fuel pump and bracket to the fuel tank without damaging the fuel filter. Align the keys on the fuel pump with the holes on the mounting bracket. Install the locking ring to the fuel pump so that the locking tabs on the locking ring are under the ring tabs on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring clockwise until it reaches the limit of its travel.

Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and lower the vehicle. Put at least 10 gallons of fuel in the fuel tank. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the relief valve and connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on for three seconds at a time until the fuel pressure reaches 35 psi. Remove the pressure gauge and cover the relief valve with the cap. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Find the trapezoidal-shaped data link connector (DLC) on the lower part of the drivers-side dash just left of the steering column. Plug the OBD scan tool into this DLC.

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On/Off" position. Make sure you dont go past this point and crank the engine.

Follow the directions on the screen of the scan tool to read the codes. Write down the codes on a piece of paper.

Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle. Look up the codes in the scan tools manual.

Prepare the old distributor cap for removal by unplugging the 2-P and 8-P connectors connected to it. Unplug the two hoses going to the advance diaphragm if your Honda Accord uses a carburetor instead of fuel injection. Loosen the three hold-down bolts on the distributor cap, leaving the spark plug wires plugged into it.

Coat the O-ring from the new distributor cap with motor oil using your finger. This is done so that the ring goes in smoothly and doesnt tear from friction.

Take the old distributor cap off of the cylinder head, and slide the new distributor cap on in its place. Make sure that the three hold-down bolts are lined up with their respective holes.

Unplug the spark plug wires from the old distributor cap, and plug them into the new distributor cap using the same position. If your wires are already unplugged, plug the wire coming from cylinder 1 into the spot marked with an "A" on the distributor cap. From there, proceed clockwise plugging in the wires from cylinders 3, 4, and 2 in that order.

Tighten the hold-down bolts, and reconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors to the distributor cap. Make sure the two vacuum hoses going to the advance diaphragm are also plugged in to complete the installation. If you need to, you can test and adjust the timing of the motor before tightening the hold-down bolts on the distributor cap.

Open the hood of the truck and locate the two screws on the top of the trim bezel. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver then move to the front of the bezel and locate the four screws in the face of it. Remove them with your Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.

Pull the trim bezel off the front of the truck and set it aside. There are three clips along the bottom edge of the bezel; they may require you to pull harder than you think you should but they will let go if you pull hard enough.

Locate the four screws at the corners of the headlight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver then pull the headlight assembly toward you until you can reach the headlight bulb connection on the rear off the assembly.

Release the locking tab on the headlight bulb and pull the wiring harness connector off the bulb. Set the harness aside and remove the headlight assembly off the truck.

Position the number one cylinder to top dead center of the compression stroke by turning the engines crankshaft. Remove the splash shield underneath the front of the vehicle by removing the 10 bolts holding it on.

Remove the cruise control actuator by unscrewing the six bolts holding it on. Unplug the connector, but do not unplug the control cable. Set the actuator aside so it is out of the way.

Take off the power steering pump by unscrewing the bolts holding it on. Remove the belt that turns the pump. Leave the hoses connected to the power steering pump and set it aside.

Remove the alternator belt by disconnecting the connector and wire harnesses. Unscrew the mounting and adjusting bolts in order to move the alternator to release tension from the belt. Remove the belt when it is loose enough.

Take off the valve cover by unscrewing the bolts holding it on. Check the rubber seals underneath the valve cover to see if they need replacement. Place a jack or a jack stand under the engine to support it and remove the mounting brackets on each side of the engine.

Remove the upper cover that shields the portion of the timing belt in front of the valve cover. Unscrew the adjusting nut located underneath the upper cover and the dipstick located to the left of the adjusting nut.

Take off the crankshaft pulley by removing the large, special bolt holding it in. Remove the lower cover behind the crankshaft pulley by removing the bolts holding it in place.

Remove the timing belt and balancer belt by moving the tensioner. Move the tensioner enough to loosen the belts so they can be easily removed.

Position the timing balancer belt driven pulley so that the groove on the pulley is lined up with the pointer on the oil pump. Place the new timing and balancer belts on the tensioner and move it back in place.

Add back the parts of the vehicle in reverse order of removal, starting with the crankshaft pulley. Once the parts are all put back together, you can loosen the adjusting nut on the tensioner to increase or decrease tension on the timing belt. Make sure the adjusting nut is tightened when you finish making adjustments.

Loosen the fork cap on top of the left fork with a 1-3/8 inch open-end wrench or a large adjustable wrench. Remove the fork cap, washer and O-ring.

Remove the drain plug on the bottom, side or back of the fork slider assembly with a Phillips head screwdriver. Drain the fork oil into a pan.

Coat the drain plug threads with Teflon paste. Replace the plug into the drain hole and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver.

Measure the correct weight and amount of fork oil, as specified in the owners manual or shop manual, for your motorcycle into a pint measuring cup. Most 1991 Harleys will use about 11 ounces of 10-weight oil.

Stick a funnel into the top of the fork; pour the measured amount of oil into the funnel.

Reinstall the O-ring, washer and fork cap. Tighten the cap wrench securely with a 1-/38 inch open-end or adjustable wrench.

Repeat all these steps for the right fork.

Disconnect the battery from the motor by removing the wires from the poles on the battery.

Drain the fuel tank by removing the drain bolt from the tank. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle and use a jack to support it so it doesnt fall to the ground. Make sure all hoses and connectors are unplugged from the fuel tank.

Unscrew the six mounting nuts that are located on the fuel pump bracket and disconnect the fuel lines that are connected to the fuel pump bracket. Lift the old fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank to remove it. Be careful of dripping fuel from the old fuel pump assembly.

Insert the new fuel pump assembly into the fuel pump access hole that the old pump assembly came out of. Make sure that the holes on the new pump go over the bolts comfortably and the pump isnt forced inside.

Replace the mounting nuts over the bolts to secure the new fuel pump assembly in place. The nuts should be torqued to 4 ft. lbs. of torque. Reconnect the fuel lines and tighten the clamps to secure them from leaking.

Reinstall the fuel tank underneath the vehicle and reconnect the hoses and connectors that were originally connected to it. Replace the fuel that was drained from the tank and reconnect the battery to the motor. Start the motor to test the newly replaced fuel pump assembly.

Park your Buick on a level surface and set the parking brake.

Place a wheel chock in front of one of the front tires.

Raise your Buick with an automobile jack and place a jack stand under the vehicles frame near a jack point for safety.

Remove the connecting bolts from the front end of the catalytic converter with the proper sized wrench and remove the bolts from the back end.

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust system.