Repair And Fix it

The Ford "F" series of full-size pickups use the model number to indicate the rated carrying capacity of the vehicle. For example, an F-250 has a payload capacity of about 2500 pounds, and newer models can carry more than this. The standard engine options for the F-250 include 5.4-liter and 6.8-liter gasoline engines. These engines have two cylinder heads, each covering half of the cylinders. The procedure for removing the cylinder heads is generally the same for all F-250 trucks made since 2001 with gasoline engines.

Instructions

1

Remove the air conditioner from the vehicle to access the cylinder heads on top of the engine block. This generally requires a professional mechanic with special equipment to avoid releasing rigerant gas into the atmosphere.

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure the engine does not start accidentally. Remove the covers for the cylinder heads.

3

Remove the intake manifold from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the timing chains from their sprockets. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

4

Disconnect the two retaining bolts for the heater hose with a socket wrench. Squeeze the clamp together, and slide it down the hose to release the hose. Detach the heater hose from the engine block. Remove all additional electrical connectors and hoses needed to access the cylinder heads in your F250.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and lift the cylinder heads from the engine block. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket from the engine block. Clean all traces of the gasket from the engine block with a gasket scraper.

Manufactured for the export market, the Mazda 626 first appeared in the U.S. in 1979. The 1999 version of the 626 is a four-door family sedan that was powered by a 2.0-liter, inline four-cylinder engine that produced 125 horsepower and 127 foot-pounds of torque. A leaking gasket that caused poor engine performance was one of the engines issues.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative (ground) battery cable. Remove the timing belt. Remove the front exhaust pipe. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the accelerator cable. Disconnect the fuel hose. Remove the ignition coil.

2

Drain the engine coolant. Verify the engine oil level. Inspect for engine oil, engine coolant and fuel leakage. Inspect the pulleys and the drive belt for runout and contact.

3

Hold the camshaft by using a wrench on the cast hexagon, and loosen the camshaft pulley lock bolt. Loosen the camshaft cap bolts in two or three steps. Arrange the removed camshaft caps to ensure correct placement during installation. Temporarily install the number three engine mount rubber to support the engine. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps. Remove the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Clean the surface of the block from any dirt and debris with a degreaser. Place the new head gasket on the block.

4

Measure the length of each bolt used to tighten the cylinder head. Replace any that exceed the maximum length. Standard length is 4.103 to 4.125 inches. Maximum length would be 4.154 inches. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps. Tightening torque shouldnt exceed 16.2 foot-pounds for each step. To install everything back, just follow the removal sequence in reverse. Remember to connect the negative battery cable back to the battery.

The GL1100 Gold Wing was introduced in 1980 and was based off the GL1000. The GL1100 was equipped with an 1,085-cc displacement, liquid-cooled opposed, four-cylinder engine. High performance valve timing and 30-mm bore carburetors contributed to its well deserved reputation of power and reliability. Performing engine repairs, such as general maintenance and routine adjustments, are in general not difficult on this motorcycle. However, replacing the head gasket is a challenging repair job. This repair job can be done without removing the engine from the motorcycle.

Instructions

1

Lift the motorcycle onto its center stand. Drain the coolant from the petcock at the bottom of the radiator into a drain pan. Dispose of the used antifreeze in accordance with local disposal laws. Remove the black bolts at the bottom of the radiator and slide the radiator forward. Remove spark plug wires from the spark plugs and set them aside.

2

Remove the eight bolts holding the plastic camshaft belt covers. Remove the camshaft belt covers and set them aside. Mark the position of the cam sprockets with a tic-mark on the cylinder block and a matching mark on the camshaft sprocket. Loosen the timing belt tensioners and remove the timing belt.

3

Remove the fuel pump if working on the right side of the engine. Remove the electronic ignition reluctor and cover if working on the left side of the engine. Remove the four bolts holding the valve covers and set the covers aside. Remove the four bolts holding down the intake manifolds.

4

Remove the six bolts holding the rocker shaft covers and remove rocker shafts. Remove the two bolts holding the camshaft pulley back plate. Tap the rocker shaft with a rubber mallet if necessary to assist in removal.

5

Remove the exhaust manifold bolts. Remove the six 10-mm cylinder head bolts and the the one small 6-mm bolt at bottom of head. Tap the head off using a rubber mallet. Bump the engine with the starter if the head is difficult to remove. This method uses the natural compression of the engine to pop the head loose.

6

Remove the oil restrictor orifice from crankcase. Remove all traces of old head gasket with a gasket scraper and rag. Ensure the block and head mating surfaces are clean, shiny and all traces of the old head gasket are removed. Clean the oil restrictor and ensure no sludge or other dirt is in the orifice passage in the block. Clean all carbon from the head using a wire brush and scraper. Check the head check for cracks or other damage. Repair any problems with the head as required.

7

Install the clean oil orifice using two new O rings. Replace O rings on the head water pipe with new ones and lubricate them with motor oil. Install the head onto the block finger tight using a new head gasket. Do not use any kind of sealer on the gasket, it must be installed dry.

8

Tighten the six 10-mm head bolts to 40 ft-lb with a torque wrench in a crisscross pattern. Install the 6-mm bolt at bottom of the head and torque to 10 ft-lb. Install the intake manifolds with the correct bolts. Ensure the manifold O rings are in good condition or replace as required.

9

Install the camshaft in the head and tighten the six camshaft bolts to 21 ft-lb. Install the camshaft pulley back plate using a new gasket and tighten the bolts to 9 ft-lb. Install the new timing belts using the alignment marks from Step 2 as erence. Tighten down the timing belt adjusters when everything is lined up. Ensure everything is correct before proceeding to the next steps.

10

Install the electronic ignition reluctor and cover plate or fuel pump as required. Replace the exhaust manifold bolts. Replace the valve cover and radiator bolts. Fill the radiator up to the recommended level with new antifreeze. Replace the spark plug wires onto the spark plugs.

11

Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system. Add coolant as necessary when the engine warms up to normal operating temperature.

The VR6 family of engines is a series of six-cylinder engines that Volkswagen Group has manufactured since 1991. These engines appear in a variety of Volkswagen cars, such as the Volkswagen Golf, new Beetle and Passat. The VR6 engines have staggered cylinders within the cylinder block and only require one cylinder head for all six cylinders. The removal of the cylinder head from a VR6 engine requires you to replace its gasket.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the battery terminals with a socket wrench and remove the battery from the vehicle. Remove the air cleaner, mass air flow sensor and air inlet duct from the intake manifold.

2

Open the cap on the radiator, and place a drain pan below the drain plug under the intake manifold. Open the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant to drain into the pan. Replace the drain plug.

3

Remove the trim cover from the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the distributor cap from the vehicle with the ignition wires still attached. Detach the throttle cable from the intake manifold and disconnect the upper intake manifold from the engine block. Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Detach the coolant hoses from the engine block with a socket wrench.

4

Screw an 8 x 10 mm bolt into the tensioner for the accessory drive belt to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Remove the drive belt from its pulleys and unscrew the bolt from the tensioner. Disconnect the alternator and the tensioner for the accessory drive belt.

5

Remove the heat shield from both exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench and disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the engine. Disconnect the mounting bolt from the cover of the timing chain and remove the timing chain cover. Remove the cover from the cylinder head and turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks. Mark the timing chain with white paint to indicate its direction of rotation.

6

Hold each camshaft in place with a 24 mm wrench and disconnect the camshaft sprockets from the camshafts with a socket wrench. Remove the cylinder head bolts from the cylinder head and lift the cylinder head from the engine block.

7

Remove the cylinder head gasket from the engine block. Clean any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper. Mount the new gasket onto the engine block with the word "TOP" facing up. Place the cylinder head over the dowels on the engine block.

8

Fasten new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass, then tighten them to 44 foot-pounds on the second pass. Tighten the bolts by 1/4 turn on the third pass, then tighten them an additional 1/4 turn on the fourth pass.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks again and lock the camshafts in place with special tool 3268. Mount the camshaft sprockets with the timing chain to the camshafts and fasten the mounting bolts for the sprockets with a 24 mm wrench. Mount the distributor drive on the camshaft and tighten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets to 74 foot-pounds.

10

Connect the timing chain tensioner and the upper cover for the timing chain temporarily. Remove special tool 3268 from the camshafts and turn the crankshaft four complete turns clockwise. Tighten the mounting bolts for the upper timing chain cover to 82 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt for the tensioner to 15 foot-pounds.

11

Replace the cover for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the drive belt for the alternator belt and adjust its tension with the belt tensioner. Connect the coolant hoses to the engine block. Install the electrical connectors and fuel lines for the fuel injectors.

12

Install the upper intake manifold to the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect any electrical wiring and vacuum lines that you removed from the upper intake manifold. Attach the throttle cable and distributor cap assembly to the upper intake manifold. Replace the trim cover for the engine.

13

Install the battery, and attach the cables to the battery with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant. Replace the oil and oil filter.

A faulty head gasket can be a very serious problem for the health of an engine, allowing engine coolant to leak into combustion chambers and causing hydro lock. Hydro lock occurs when engine coolant enters the combustion chamber of an engine and cannot be compressed by the upward motion of the piston, usually resulting in catastrophic engine failure.

Instructions

1

Remove necessary parts, including the throttle linkage from the throttle body, air-conditioning compressor, alternator, power-steering pump, drive belts, intake manifold, intake manifold gasket as well as the exhaust manifold attached to the cylinder head with the faulty gasket.

2

Disassemble and remove the cylinder head by removing the valve cover from the top of the cylinder head with a box end wrench, then remove the rocker arms using a socket wrench and pull out the pushrods. Next, easily remove the cylinder head bolts and the head from the engine.

3

Place the new gasket on the engine block and place the cylinder head on top. Torque cylinder head bolts to 65 pound-feet using a torque wrench while making sure to tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern. Torque should be applied in 20 foot-pound increments to all bolts.

4

Reassemble engine components in reverse disassembly order, starting with the exhaust manifold. Replace all gaskets and tighten all fasteners using the torque wrench to factory specifications.

If the composite headlight assembly in your 1991 Ford Ranger needs replacing due to damage or discoloration, the assembly can be removed from the front of the truck with a little effort and basic tools. The assembly uses screws to hold it in place, and while the trim bezel has to come off first, the screws are all readily accessible. If you need to change the bulbs in these assemblies, do it from the rear of the light without removal.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the truck and locate the two screws on the top of the trim bezel. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver then move to the front of the bezel and locate the four screws in the face of it. Remove them with your Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.

2

Pull the trim bezel off the front of the truck and set it aside. There are three clips along the bottom edge of the bezel; they may require you to pull harder than you think you should but they will let go if you pull hard enough.

3

Locate the four screws at the corners of the headlight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver then pull the headlight assembly toward you until you can reach the headlight bulb connection on the rear off the assembly.

4

Release the locking tab on the headlight bulb and pull the wiring harness connector off the bulb. Set the harness aside and remove the headlight assembly off the truck.

Over time, many things happen that cause old tools to work not quite as well as they once did. In the case of socket wrenches, this can easily happen. Frequently, something will happen to a wrench or socket that makes the handle and the socket stick together. This can be caused by bent or dented tools, temperature expansion or by grease, dirt or other substances getting into the tool. To keep your tools useful even as they age, you may need to know how to get a stuck socket and handle apart.

Instructions

1

Apply some WD-40 or other lubricant to the joint where the socket connects to the wrench.

2

Wrap a rag around the head and the shaft of the wrench so that you can get a good grip on both parts of the tool without your hand slipping. Pull the two pieces apart if you can.

3

Clamp the handle of the socket wrench carefully in a vise. Wrap the tool with several wraps with a rag if youre worried about scoring the tool in the jaws of the vise.

4

Tighten a crescent wrench or monkey wrench around the socket or use a pair of pliers to get a strong grip on it. Again, wrap it in fabric if youre worried about biting into the tool. Pull as hard as you can until you separate the tools.

5

Insert a thin-bladed flat head screwdriver in between the socket and the wrench and try to pry it off if nothing else has worked.

The cylinder heads in the four-stroke combustion engine have valves and valve seats that must be machined to precise tolerance and fit. If the valves do not seat correctly with their seats, they leak and lose compression. Valves that do not match within specifications with their seats can also cause excessive overheating and valve failure. The valve seat takes a continual pounding from the action of the valve when it closes. Valve seats can crack and become worn. Several tools need to be used to check and repair valve seats.

Crack Checking Tools

Before any valve seat can be reshaped and ground within specifications, the vale seat area must be magnafluxed to reveal hairline cracks. An electrical transformer attaches to the head, where it delivers a a high voltage magnetic charge to the metal. Magnaflux, which consists of a powdered, reactive chemical, gets sprinkled on the valve seat area. The chemical power reacts to breaks in the magnetic lines of force (field), which shows up as horizontal lines or spider-webbing cracks in the metal.

Valve Seat Grinding Machine

The valve seat grinding machine consists of of a platform vice that holds the cylinder head in a fixed and upright position. The vice fasteners lock the head into a level and stable orientation. The overhead part of the valve seat grinder consists of a motor that drives a cutting bit, which can be adapted to cut out the old valve seat from either aluminum or cast iron. A machine bit then cuts the new valve seat face at a precise angle, usually around 45 degrees. Dial indicators determine the depth of the cut, while bits determine the seat diameter to be cut. Lubricant, fed by the machine, keeps the cutting surface cool.

Valve Lappers

Valve lapping tools must be used to attain final sizing of the face and valve seats for a perfect, sealed match. The most common valve lappers consists of wood dowels that have two different size suction cups on each end. After the valve has been inserted in the stem and abrasive compound has been brushed between the valve face and the seat, a manual twisting motion turns the wood dowel back and forth to cut the interface seat between the valve and seat. Valve lappers come in a variety of suction cup diameters for intake and exhaust valves of all sizes.

Motorized Valve Lappers

Instead of manual wood dowel lappers, motorized drills and air guns can be fitted with suction cup bits that attach to the top of the valve. Once abrasive lapping compound has been applied between the valve and seat, the motor or air tool is turned on to spin the valve at high rpm. The use of power tools for lapping reduces the labor time involved in cutting the final seat and valve face.

Valve Seat Grinding Compound

Valve seat grinding compound consists of a a thick paste that contains cutting abrasives. The cutting compound comes in fine, medium and coarse grits. The coarse grit takes the most of the irregularities and burs out of the interface surfaces, while the medium and fine cutting compound cuts the last finishing face between the valve and valve seat.

Ford introduced the Aspire in 1993 as a 1994 model. It replaced the Festiva as the companys affordable, compact car. Ford discontinued the Aspire in 1997. The head torque specs were the same for the two-door and four-door trims that year, as both of them came with the same 1.3-liter engine.

Understanding Torque

When using hand tools, torque is basically the same thing as leverage. It is the measurement of force applied to turn or twist an object. Torque is given in distance-and-force measurement. For instance, 10 foot-pounds represents a torque of 10 pounds applied to a lever or tool at a distance of 1 foot from the object being turned. This would equate to applying 10 pounds of pressure while using a wrench that is 1-foot long.

Tightening Sequence

It is important to tighten the bolts on the Aspires cylinder head in the proper sequence. There are two lines of bolts, sequenced 8-4-1-5-9 and 7-3-2-6-10. The bolts must be tightened in sequence from 1 to 10.

Torque Specs

Tighten the bolts in sequence with 35 to 40 foot-pounds of torque. Then tighten the bolts in sequence again, using 56 to 60 foot-pounds of torque.

The head gasket is located between the engine block and cylinder head. It seals the engine cylinders so coolant does not leak into the engine. It also promotes maximum compression of its combustion chamber. The head gasket is the most crucial seal for an engine and can be costly and time-consuming if fails. Fortunately, there are several ways to test for bad head gaskets.

Instructions

1

Open your hood and check the oil dipstick. See if there are remnants of coolant on the dipstick. Once a head gasket breaks, it usually causes coolant to filter into the oil, giving it a milky appearance. To be certain, drain some oil into a pan, place under light and see if there are spots.

2

Turn on the engine, leave it in park and walk to the back of your car to check the exhaust pipe. When head gaskets fail, the exhaust has a white color. Sometimes, there is a sweet smell coming out of the pipe.

3

Open your hood and use a flashlight to inspect the area around the engine block and compression cylinder. See if there are obvious cracks or coolant leaks that may indicate a bad head gasket.

4

Gently rev the engine while the car is in park. If your car feels like it may stall going back to an idle position, you may have a faulty head gasket. Once the head gasket fails, the compression may not be sufficient to keep the engine running. Try this method multiple times to get a better idea if you have a bad head gasket.

The Sebring was first introduced to the North American market in 1995. It is a middle-size car manufactured by Chrysler. The 2001 model could be purchased as a coupe or a sedan. It was packed with a lot of features, including an ABS braking system, airbags and CD player. Like any car, the Sebring should be inspected and serviced periodically. If the head gasket in your 01 Sebring needs replacing, you can do the job if you have mechanical experience, the right tools, and access to a hoist.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Disconnect the negative cable of your Sebrings battery. Remove the nut from the negative post with a box-end wrench. Lift the cable from your battery, move it outside of the battery box, and close the lid of the battery box.

2

Drain the antifreeze from the cooling system. Remove the throttle body air inlet hose and the air cleaner housing assembly. Take out the intake manifold. Disconnect the heater hose from the thermostat housing. Pull out the heater tube support bracket from the cylinder head.

3

Unplug the camshaft position sensor (CPS) electrical connector, then unplug the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve electrical connector. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.

4

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the accessory drive belts. Unscrew the crankshaft damper. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Take off the timing belt. Remove the camshaft sprockets. Remove the timing belt idler pulley and the rear timing belt cover.

5

Lift the cylinder head cover. Take out the camshafts and rocker arms. Remove the cylinder head bolts using the torque wrench, then remove the cylinder head from the engine block.

6

Inspect and clean the cylinder head. The cylinder head must be flat within 0.004 inches. The cylinder head bolts should also be examined before reuse. If the threads are necked down, the bolts must be replaced. To ensure that the engine gasket is properly sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.

Installation Procedure

7

Lay the cylinder head gasket on the block. Before installing the bolts, the threads should be coated with engine oil.

8

Install the cylinder head on the block. Tighten the cylinder head bolts using the 4-step torque turn method. In the first step, tighten all the bolts to 25 foot-pounds. In the second step, tighten all the bolts to 50 foot-pounds. In the third, tighten the cylinder head bolts again to 50 foot-pounds. In the final step, make an additional one-quarter of the turn with the torque wrench.

9

Install the rocker arms and camshafts. Replace the cylinder head cover. Install the rear timing belt cover and timing belt idler pulley. Install the camshaft sprockets. Install the timing belt.

10

Replace the upper and the lower timing belt covers. Install the crankshaft damper, then install the accessory drive belts. Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Torque the fasteners to 250 inch-pounds.

11

Plug in the camshaft position sensor (CMS) electrical connector. Connect the EGR valve electrical connector. Install the heater tube support bracket to the cylinder head. Connect the heater hose to the thermostat housing. Install the intake manifold. Connect the throttle body air inlet hose and air cleaner housing assembly. Fill the cooling system.

Cummins diesel engines are a common engine option in full-size Dodge trucks. The six-cylinder, 5.9-liter Cummins engine has four valves per cylinder for a total of 24 valves. The gasket between the cylinder head and the engine block forms a tight seal between these two components. A leaking head gasket can cause the oil in the vehicle to have a milky appearance when it becomes contaminated by coolant.

Instructions

1

Place a clean container beneath the radiator, and open the drain cock with a socket wrench. Allow the coolant to drain into the pan, and save the coolant for reuse. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal so you dont start the engine during the procedure.

2

Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys, and remove the alternator from the engine compartment with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold. Remove the crankcase ventilation system and evaporative emissions system from the engine.

3

Remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cables for the accelerator, cruise control and transmission to obtain access to the intake manifold. Remove the distributor cap with the electrical wiring still attached, and detach the electrical wiring from the ignition coil.

4

Detach the electrical connector from the engine coolant temperature sensor. Disconnect the water bypass hose and upper radiator hose from the engine to access the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold and valve covers from the engine with a socket wrench.

5

Record the original position of the valve train components, including the rocker arms, push rods, exhaust manifolds and spark plugs. This ensures you can install these components in the correct position later. Remove the valve train components from the engine with a socket wrench.

6

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head, and lift the cylinder heads from the engine block. Discard the gasket on the engine block.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise so that the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshaft do not align. This ensures that no piston is in the top dead center position when you install the cylinder head. Wait five minutes for the lash adjusters to depressurize before installing the cylinder head.

8

Place a new cylinder head gasket on the engine block, and mount the cylinder head on top of the gasket. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head to 50 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass and 105 foot-pounds on the second pass.

9

Install the valve train components to their original positions, using the notes you made in step five as a guide. Replace the additional components you removed to access the cylinder head by performing steps two through four in reverse.

10

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal, and replace the coolant in the cooling system. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The Jimmy is a mid-size sport utility vehicle that General Motors manufactured from 1983 to 2005. The 1999 model belongs to the second generation, which was in production from 1995 to 2005. These vehicles had a six-cylinder 4.3-liter engine with sequential fuel injection. The cylinder head in a 1999 Jimmy is a platform on the cylinder block that contains the poppet valves and spark plugs. The procedure for installing a cylinder head is generally the same for all versions of the Jimmy made between 1994 and 1999.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Remove the filler cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Wrap a shop rag around the fuel pressure connection on the fuel rail and connect a fuel pressure gauge to the connection. Place the bleed hose of the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline, and open the valve on the fuel pressure gauge. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system and drain the excess fuel into the gasoline container.

2

Place a sealable container under the radiator drain and open the drain plug with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant into the container and seal it for reuse. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifold from the engine. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the radiator.

3

Detach the electrical wiring harness and coolant sensor wire from the rear of the cylinder head. Record the positions of the electrical wiring for the spark plugs and disconnect them. Unscrew the spark plugs with a socket wrench and remove the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

4

Remove the bracket for the fuel line from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cover for the rocker arm and loosen the rocker arm. Remove the push rods from the cylinder block.

5

Remove the bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench and lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block. Remove any dirt from the threads of the cylinder head bolts with a shop cloth to ensure you can properly torque the bolts later.

6

Mount a new gasket for the cylinder head on the dowel pins so that the side of the gasket with the words "This Side Up faces up. Install the new cylinder head onto the dowels and gasket. Apply a thin layer of sealer 12346004 to the threads on the cylinder head bolts. Record the length of each bolt and fasten the mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand.

7

Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head to 22 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the short bolts an additional 55 degrees with a socket wrench. Tighten the medium bolts to 65 degrees and tighten the long bolts to 75 degrees.

8

Connect the push rods to the cylinder block and fasten the rocker arms with a socket wrench. Replace the cover for the rocker arms and screw the spark plugs into the cylinder block. Connect the electrical wiring for the spark plugs using the notes you made in Step 3.

9

Attach the bracket for the fuel line with a socket wrench and attach the electrical wiring to the rear of the cylinder head. Connect the electrical wire to the coolant sensor. Attach the exhaust manifold and intake manifold.

10

Fasten the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and fill the engine with coolant. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.