Repair And Fix it

Wheel bearing failure is a common cause of driving troubles that may lead to damage of the cars drivetrain, or at the very least cause some obnoxious noises. The Dodge Avenger features maintenance-free wheel bearings. As a result, when the bearings no longer operate properly they must be replaced with the entire wheel hub assembly. This procedure requires removal of the steering knuckle, so it may be beneficial to consider replacing other elements of the steering and drivetrain during this repair to avoid future frustration.

Instructions

1

Loosen the wheel hub bolt and remove the wheel cotter pin. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel.

2

Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. This will require removing the brake calipers from the rotor and disengaging the tie rod ends and the lower ball joint. Doing this will require the use of a tie rod presser and a ball joint separator tool.

3

Remove the bolts holding the wheel hub to the steering knuckle once the knuckle has been removed from the vehicle. It is recommended to do this on a bench or other solid surface. Remove the hub from the steering knuckle by gently tapping it with a soft mallet.

4

Clean the mating surface between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub. Install the new hub assembly and tighten the bolts to 65 foot-pounds of torque.

5

Reinstall the steering knuckle and the brake calipers. Install the tire and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel hub nut and install a new cotter pin. Drive the vehicle to check for proper alignment.

2002 Chevrolet Venture minivans use a sealed hub design for both front wheels. In this design, the wheel hub and bearing are pressed together in a non-serviceable unit. As the vehicle ages, the bearing portion of the hub unit can fail, causing an excessive grinding or humming noise when the vehicle is driven, especially at highway speeds. In addition to bearing failure, the hub flange can become warped causing similar symptoms. A dial indicator must be used to accurately measure the looseness and runout of the wheel hub unit in order to accurately diagnose a faulty assembly.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands under each control arm in order to load the ball joint. Check to make sure that the vehicle is securely supported. Loosen the hub cap nuts, if equipped, with a 19 mm metric socket and ratchet. Remove the hub cap.

2

Secure a dial indicator to base stand in front of the wheel. Adjust the dial indicator so its plunger is at a 90-degree angle to flat, inside face of the wheel, adjacent to the lug nuts.

3

Zero the dial indicator, then grip the top of the tire with both hands. Push and pull on the top of the tire; towards the tire on the other side and then back towards your body.

4

Note the reading on the dial indicator while moving the tire back and forth. If the movement exceeds 0.005-inches, then the wheel bearing has excessive play and must be replaced.

5

Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the automotive jack and remove the stands. Set the vehicle back on the ground. Break the lug nuts loose using a 19 mm lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it once again with the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

6

Reinstall two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Install a C-clamp over of the brake caliper so the fixed end of the clamp is resting against the inside of the caliper and the movable end is resting against the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to squeeze the brake caliper piston back into the caliper. This allows the brake caliper to slide off easily.

7

Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle with a ratchet and a metric socket. Pry the brake caliper bracket and caliper away from the rotor as an assembly and tie it to the coil spring with a length of mechanics wire. Dont allow it to hang from the brake hose.

8

Remove the lug nuts holding the rotor in place and remove the rotor from the steering knuckle. Clean the hub flange with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. Shift the transmission into neutral.

9

Set the dial indicator against the hub flange at a 90-degree angle, and then zero the dial indicator. Rotate the flange clockwise and note the reading on the dial indicator. If the needle movement exceeds .005-inches, then the hub flange has excessive run out and the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

If the composite headlight assembly in your 1991 Ford Ranger needs replacing due to damage or discoloration, the assembly can be removed from the front of the truck with a little effort and basic tools. The assembly uses screws to hold it in place, and while the trim bezel has to come off first, the screws are all readily accessible. If you need to change the bulbs in these assemblies, do it from the rear of the light without removal.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the truck and locate the two screws on the top of the trim bezel. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver then move to the front of the bezel and locate the four screws in the face of it. Remove them with your Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.

2

Pull the trim bezel off the front of the truck and set it aside. There are three clips along the bottom edge of the bezel; they may require you to pull harder than you think you should but they will let go if you pull hard enough.

3

Locate the four screws at the corners of the headlight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver then pull the headlight assembly toward you until you can reach the headlight bulb connection on the rear off the assembly.

4

Release the locking tab on the headlight bulb and pull the wiring harness connector off the bulb. Set the harness aside and remove the headlight assembly off the truck.

Carriage bolt assemblies are threaded fasteners with a bolt that has a rounded, dome-shaped head. The bolt has a square neck that extends from the head towards the threads. A regular hex nut or wing nut allows the assembly to hold the components together. This assembly can be tightened with just one wrench.

Function

When used in metalworking applications, carriage bolts are often called plow bolts. These bolts must go through a square opening to accommodate the neck, which will keep the bolt from turning when the assemblys nut is tightened.

Considerations

Carriage bolt assemblies are commonly used in carpentry and construction; they are well-suited for fastening two structural wood pieces together, especially when extra strength is required. The square neck sinks into the wood as the fastener is tightened, preventing the bolt from turning and countersinking the bolt head at the same time.

Types

Carriage bolt assemblies are available in varying degrees of hardness, or grades. Grades three, five and eight are common strengths. Zinc is the most common coating for a carriage bolt. They are also available in silicon bronze.

The power steering assembly on your Mitsubishi has an input section, a section where work is done and finally an output section. If you know what components are present in your cars power steering system, itll be easier for you to understand how the system works.

The Input Section

Steering input is by way of the steering wheel. When you turn the wheel, a shaft in the steering column is also turned. This shaft is connected -- by way of a steering coupler/universal joint -- to the rack and pinion assembly, where your steering input is translated into side-to-side movement of the steering arms.

The Steering Rack

The power steering rack is where your steering input is translated into the side-to-side motion that turns the front wheels to turn the car. At the end of the steering column is the steering rack input shaft, which has a pinion gear at the end of it. As this gear rotates, it meshes with teeth on the steering rack, moving the rack in the required direction to turn the car.

The Output Section

The steering rack is coupled to the steering knuckle at each wheel by way of inner and outer tie rod ends, which allow for suspension travel and knuckle pivot.

Steering Assist

The addition of a hydraulic fluid is what adds the power to power steering. The pump sends fluid to the steering rack, where valves direct it in the proper direction to work against seals that help push and pull the rack when you turn the steering wheel.

The fuel pump in your vehicle is the pump that forces fuel from the fuel tank to your motor. In the 1991 Honda Accord LX, the fuel pump is electronic instead of mechanical, meaning that an electric motor pumps the fuel. Since the 1991 Accord LX is fuel injected, the fuel needs to travel with a high rate of pressure to the motor. The fuel pump assembly is located inside of the fuel tank on the 1991 Accord LX so the fuel tank needs to be removed prior to replacing the pump assembly.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery from the motor by removing the wires from the poles on the battery.

2

Drain the fuel tank by removing the drain bolt from the tank. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle and use a jack to support it so it doesnt fall to the ground. Make sure all hoses and connectors are unplugged from the fuel tank.

3

Unscrew the six mounting nuts that are located on the fuel pump bracket and disconnect the fuel lines that are connected to the fuel pump bracket. Lift the old fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank to remove it. Be careful of dripping fuel from the old fuel pump assembly.

4

Insert the new fuel pump assembly into the fuel pump access hole that the old pump assembly came out of. Make sure that the holes on the new pump go over the bolts comfortably and the pump isnt forced inside.

5

Replace the mounting nuts over the bolts to secure the new fuel pump assembly in place. The nuts should be torqued to 4 ft. lbs. of torque. Reconnect the fuel lines and tighten the clamps to secure them from leaking.

6

Reinstall the fuel tank underneath the vehicle and reconnect the hoses and connectors that were originally connected to it. Replace the fuel that was drained from the tank and reconnect the battery to the motor. Start the motor to test the newly replaced fuel pump assembly.

Replacing the hub assembly on your Jeep Wrangler, while time consuming, can save you a substantial amount of money. The hub assembly on the front of your Jeep Wrangler supports the brakes, the front drive axle and the bearing assembly. It is not serviceable except as a complete unit but replacement hub assemblies are readily available from most auto parts stores and through the Jeep dealer network.

Instructions

1

Locate the spindle nut in the center of the wheel before removing the wheel from the Jeep. Remove the cotter pin from the from the end of the axle shaft with a pair of pliers and then loosen the spindle nut with a breaker bar and a spindle nut socket.

2

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel with a lug wrench while there is still weight on it but do not remove them from the wheel studs. Raise the front of the Jeep with a jack until the tire is off the ground, then insert a set of jack stands under the axle tube to support the truck.

3

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs, then remove the tires and set them aside. Locate the two slide pins that support the brake caliper on the back of the caliper. Remove both pins with a socket and ratchet and then lift the caliper off the brake rotor and mounting bracket. Support the caliper from the upper suspension with a wire so it does not damage the rubber brake line.

4

Slide the brake rotor off the hub and set it aside. Locate the three 12-point bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that retain the hub to the knuckle. Remove them with a 12-point socket, ratchet and extension, then set the bolts aside.

5

Pull the hub assembly straight out of the steering knuckle, carefully sliding it off the axle shaft, and then discard the old hub assembly. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle with a wire brush to remove any rust or corrosion from the knuckle, then coat the inside with anti-seize compound.

6

Slide the new hub assembly over the axle shaft and into the steering knuckle. Push it in until it seats completely, then install the 12-point retaining bolts into the hub from the rear of the steering knuckle. Torque the retaining bolts to 75 lbs.-ft. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the brake rotor over the wheel studs and hub assembly, then position the break caliper over the rotor, aligning the hole for the slide pins with the holes in the mounting bracket. Install the slide pins and torque them to 36 lbs.-ft. with a torque wrench and socket.

8

Position the wheel over the wheel studs and thread the lug nuts on until they are snug. Thread the spindle nut onto the axle shaft end and tighten until it is snug.

9

Raise the Jeep off the jack stands with a jack, remove the stands, and set the Jeep on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench and then torque the spindle nut to 175 ft.-lbs. Install a new cotter pin in the axle shaft and bend the ends over with a pair of pliers to secure it.