Repair And Fix it

Loosen the wheel hub bolt and remove the wheel cotter pin. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel.

Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. This will require removing the brake calipers from the rotor and disengaging the tie rod ends and the lower ball joint. Doing this will require the use of a tie rod presser and a ball joint separator tool.

Remove the bolts holding the wheel hub to the steering knuckle once the knuckle has been removed from the vehicle. It is recommended to do this on a bench or other solid surface. Remove the hub from the steering knuckle by gently tapping it with a soft mallet.

Clean the mating surface between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub. Install the new hub assembly and tighten the bolts to 65 foot-pounds of torque.

Reinstall the steering knuckle and the brake calipers. Install the tire and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel hub nut and install a new cotter pin. Drive the vehicle to check for proper alignment.

Lift the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands under each control arm in order to load the ball joint. Check to make sure that the vehicle is securely supported. Loosen the hub cap nuts, if equipped, with a 19 mm metric socket and ratchet. Remove the hub cap.

Secure a dial indicator to base stand in front of the wheel. Adjust the dial indicator so its plunger is at a 90-degree angle to flat, inside face of the wheel, adjacent to the lug nuts.

Zero the dial indicator, then grip the top of the tire with both hands. Push and pull on the top of the tire; towards the tire on the other side and then back towards your body.

Note the reading on the dial indicator while moving the tire back and forth. If the movement exceeds 0.005-inches, then the wheel bearing has excessive play and must be replaced.

Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the automotive jack and remove the stands. Set the vehicle back on the ground. Break the lug nuts loose using a 19 mm lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it once again with the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

Reinstall two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Install a C-clamp over of the brake caliper so the fixed end of the clamp is resting against the inside of the caliper and the movable end is resting against the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to squeeze the brake caliper piston back into the caliper. This allows the brake caliper to slide off easily.

Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle with a ratchet and a metric socket. Pry the brake caliper bracket and caliper away from the rotor as an assembly and tie it to the coil spring with a length of mechanics wire. Dont allow it to hang from the brake hose.

Remove the lug nuts holding the rotor in place and remove the rotor from the steering knuckle. Clean the hub flange with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. Shift the transmission into neutral.

Set the dial indicator against the hub flange at a 90-degree angle, and then zero the dial indicator. Rotate the flange clockwise and note the reading on the dial indicator. If the needle movement exceeds .005-inches, then the hub flange has excessive run out and the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

Loosen the lug nuts around the inner part of the hub cap using the appropriate socket but do not completely remove them. Use the jack to hoist up the vehicle and return to the lug nuts and remove them, setting them in a safe place. Remove the wheel and place out of the way. Using a screwdriver and hammer, tap at the dust cap to remove it and set it aside in a safe place.

Remove the two caliper bolts, taking care not to allow the brake caliper to dangle by the brake line. Untwist the wire clothes hanger and create a temporary loop to hold the brake caliper in place, attaching to the vehicle or something nearby that can support the brake caliper without pulling on the brake line.

Remove the retaining screw at the center of the wheel hub and then remove the center hub. With a screwdriver and hammer, carefully knock the notch at the edge of the axle nut and use the appropriate axle nut socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut. This will require some force as it is attached with 200 ft.-lbs. torque. When the axle nut has been removed, grip the bearings with a rag (to protect fingers and buffer against the grease) and pull with even pressure to slide off. Remove the brake shield, if desired, and clean it.

Use the three-jaw puller to remove the inner bearing race. Knock the inner dust shield out. Take the old parts and set them aside to be properly disposed of. Get the new parts ready to be placed on the vehicle.

Replace the brake shield, once it has been cleaned if this was done, and place the inner dust shield properly in its spot, pushing it into place by hand and gently tapping with a tool, if needed, to ensure it is in properly. With gloved hands, apply a generous amount of automotive grease to the axle to protect against rust and damage.

Take the new hub bearing, check to ensure there is sufficient grease on it and adding more if needed, and carefully slide it into place. Use a bearing installer to secure it. Replace the axle nut, using the appropriate axle nut socket and breaker bar to apply 200 ft.-lbs. of torque. Using a screwdriver and hammer, notch or dent the outer portion of the axle nut. Install the dust cap but check the wheel hub by spinning it a few times to ensure there are no metal-on-metal sounds or other inappropriate noises coming from the motion of the spinning.

Replace the wheel and tighten the lugs to 85 ft.-lbs. of torque, using the appropriate socket size. Replace the hub cap, if any. Lower the vehicle from the jack and dispose of all old parts properly.

Locate the spindle nut in the center of the wheel before removing the wheel from the Jeep. Remove the cotter pin from the from the end of the axle shaft with a pair of pliers and then loosen the spindle nut with a breaker bar and a spindle nut socket.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel with a lug wrench while there is still weight on it but do not remove them from the wheel studs. Raise the front of the Jeep with a jack until the tire is off the ground, then insert a set of jack stands under the axle tube to support the truck.

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs, then remove the tires and set them aside. Locate the two slide pins that support the brake caliper on the back of the caliper. Remove both pins with a socket and ratchet and then lift the caliper off the brake rotor and mounting bracket. Support the caliper from the upper suspension with a wire so it does not damage the rubber brake line.

Slide the brake rotor off the hub and set it aside. Locate the three 12-point bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that retain the hub to the knuckle. Remove them with a 12-point socket, ratchet and extension, then set the bolts aside.

Pull the hub assembly straight out of the steering knuckle, carefully sliding it off the axle shaft, and then discard the old hub assembly. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle with a wire brush to remove any rust or corrosion from the knuckle, then coat the inside with anti-seize compound.

Slide the new hub assembly over the axle shaft and into the steering knuckle. Push it in until it seats completely, then install the 12-point retaining bolts into the hub from the rear of the steering knuckle. Torque the retaining bolts to 75 lbs.-ft. with a torque wrench.

Install the brake rotor over the wheel studs and hub assembly, then position the break caliper over the rotor, aligning the hole for the slide pins with the holes in the mounting bracket. Install the slide pins and torque them to 36 lbs.-ft. with a torque wrench and socket.

Position the wheel over the wheel studs and thread the lug nuts on until they are snug. Thread the spindle nut onto the axle shaft end and tighten until it is snug.

Raise the Jeep off the jack stands with a jack, remove the stands, and set the Jeep on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench and then torque the spindle nut to 175 ft.-lbs. Install a new cotter pin in the axle shaft and bend the ends over with a pair of pliers to secure it.