Repair And Fix it

2002 Chevrolet Venture minivans use a sealed hub design for both front wheels. In this design, the wheel hub and bearing are pressed together in a non-serviceable unit. As the vehicle ages, the bearing portion of the hub unit can fail, causing an excessive grinding or humming noise when the vehicle is driven, especially at highway speeds. In addition to bearing failure, the hub flange can become warped causing similar symptoms. A dial indicator must be used to accurately measure the looseness and runout of the wheel hub unit in order to accurately diagnose a faulty assembly.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands under each control arm in order to load the ball joint. Check to make sure that the vehicle is securely supported. Loosen the hub cap nuts, if equipped, with a 19 mm metric socket and ratchet. Remove the hub cap.

2

Secure a dial indicator to base stand in front of the wheel. Adjust the dial indicator so its plunger is at a 90-degree angle to flat, inside face of the wheel, adjacent to the lug nuts.

3

Zero the dial indicator, then grip the top of the tire with both hands. Push and pull on the top of the tire; towards the tire on the other side and then back towards your body.

4

Note the reading on the dial indicator while moving the tire back and forth. If the movement exceeds 0.005-inches, then the wheel bearing has excessive play and must be replaced.

5

Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the automotive jack and remove the stands. Set the vehicle back on the ground. Break the lug nuts loose using a 19 mm lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it once again with the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

6

Reinstall two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Install a C-clamp over of the brake caliper so the fixed end of the clamp is resting against the inside of the caliper and the movable end is resting against the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to squeeze the brake caliper piston back into the caliper. This allows the brake caliper to slide off easily.

7

Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle with a ratchet and a metric socket. Pry the brake caliper bracket and caliper away from the rotor as an assembly and tie it to the coil spring with a length of mechanics wire. Dont allow it to hang from the brake hose.

8

Remove the lug nuts holding the rotor in place and remove the rotor from the steering knuckle. Clean the hub flange with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. Shift the transmission into neutral.

9

Set the dial indicator against the hub flange at a 90-degree angle, and then zero the dial indicator. Rotate the flange clockwise and note the reading on the dial indicator. If the needle movement exceeds .005-inches, then the hub flange has excessive run out and the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

The VTEC-E is the single overhead-cam version of the Honda Civic VTEC engine, designed to increase fuel economy at low rpm. Only one of the two intake valves opens a very small amount at low rpm, increasing the fuel/air atomization in the cylinder, utilizing a leaner mixture. It is necessary for the technician to know if the Civic is equipped with a VTEC or a VTEC-E model engine when attempting to diagnose a problem. Identifying a VTEC-E requires little more than raising the hood and making a phone call.

Instructions

1

Pull the inside hood release, and lift the hood of the Honda Civic.

2

Find the engine model number engraving located toward the front of the engine just below the head gasket. Remove any grease or dirt that covers the engraving.

3

Read and record the engraving.

4

Contact the service department at a Honda dealer and ask a service representative to decode the engraved number to determine if the engine is a VETEC-E.

The 2002 Lexus LS430 came with a 4.3 liter V-8 engine that produced 290 horsepower at 5,600 r.p.m. The fuel economy EPA highway mileage on the 2002 LS430 was 23 m.p.g. and 16 m.p.g. city mileage. The 4.3 liter engine is capable of creating 320 foot-pounds of torque. Checking the coolant on your 4.3 liter LS430 will keep the engine cooled to its proper level and maintain the life of the engine.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your LS430. Stand in the front of the vehicle facing the radiator.

2

Place your hand on the radiator cap momentarily to see if it is hot to the touch. If the radiator cap is hot, do not open it or attempt to break the seal to depressurize the radiator.

3

Remove the radiator cap once you have verified that the engine is cool, or the car has sat without running for over one hour.

4

Visually inspect the fill hole at the top of the radiator. If you can see the metal fins inside the radiator, and you dont see any coolant, then you need to add some.

A faulty brake magnet can severely impact the stopping power of a trailer. While some magnet problems will be apparent upon visual inspection, there may also be electrical problems that can impact performance. A compromised brake magnet can lead to weak or surging brakes, or cause the brakes to pull to one side. It is important to inspect and test the magnets each time the brakes are worked on to ensure maximum effectiveness.

Instructions

1

Jack the trailer up high enough that each wheel turns freely. Secure the trailer with blocks under the frame at each end and on both sides to reduce the danger of the trailer falling on you should the jacks fail.

2

Remove the lug nuts and pull the tires and rims off of each axle.

3

Take off the grease cap and remove the cotter pin and castle nut. If there is a spindle washer, remove this too. Gently remove the outer bearing, drum, seal and inner bearing.

4

Locate the brake magnet. Take a straight edge tool and lay it across the top of the magnet. The edge of the magnet should be parallel to the straight edge all the way across. Any pitting or changes in the magnets surface indicate abnormal wear and the magnet should be replaced.

5

Check the center of the magnet for copper coil. If any coil can be seen, the magnet is worn out and should be replaced.

6

Visually inspect the magnet for grease or oil residue. If any is found, replace the magnet.

7

Check the magnet for short circuits. Disconnect the leads and the strain relief so that you can pull the leads through the backing plate. Unclip the leads from the lever arm and disconnect the magnet. Connect the positive battery terminal to one end of the ammeter lead and the other end to one of the magnet wires. Use a piece of 16-gauge wire and connect the magnet housing to the negative battery terminal. The ammeter should not show a current reading. If it does, a short exists and the magnet should be replaced.

8

Keeping the magnet wire connected to the ammeter lead, take the other magnet wire and attach it to the negative battery terminal. Take the other ammeter lead and attach it to the positive terminal. An amp reading of 3.2 or more at 12 volts means there is a short circuit in the coil and the magnet should be replaced.

9

Check the brake lining, shoes and repack the bearings if needed while the wheel assembly is apart. Put the parts back on the axle in the opposite order of how you removed them.

The EGR, or exhaust gas re-circulation, valve is a key part of your vehicles exhaust system. The EGR valve is responsible for making your vehicle run efficiently by optimizing fuel intake. The EGR valve re-circulates exhaust back into the engine. The first sign that your EGR valve may need to be replaced or cleaned is when the vehicle starts to idle roughly or does not accelerates as quickly. You can check to see if your EGR valve needs replacement or cleaning yourself, saving yourself a trip to the shop.

Instructions

How to Check a Faulty EGR

1

Put the car in park and engage the emergency brake. Start the vehicle and let it warm up for 15 minutes.

2

Pull on the hood release cable inside the vehicle to open the hood. Locate the EGR valve on the engine manifold. You may want to er to your vehicles manual for exact location.

3

Locate the EGR plunger mechanism, which controls the exhaust gasses being re-circulated into the vehicles engine. The plunger is located on the outside of the EGR valve.

4

Check the EGR plunger for any malfunctions by having someone rev the engine. If the plunger opens and closes quickly, the EGR valve is good. If the plunger does not open or close, or opens and gets stuck, the valve is faulty and should be cleaned or replaced.

There are several different reasons for why O-rings can fail. Checking for damage is relatively easy. In most cases it is easy to tell that the O-ring does not look normal, but when you identify the exact characteristics, you will know what the problem is and will be able to take steps to fix it. The following four patterns are the most commonly found with O-rings and tells much about the solutions to fix them.

Instructions

1

Examine the O-ring by checking for compression set. This is when the seal lines have become deformed and compressed to the surface and look melted and misshapen. If this has not occurred, continue to the other steps until you can identify the problem. However if it has, it means the material of this O-ring was not suitable, or that the operating system temperature needs to be reduced.

2

Look for extrusion and nibbling. Its characteristics are a "torn," ragged look of the O-ring. This occurs in hydraulic rod and piston seals because of high pressure causing clearance gaps which destroy the ring. If this is the case, you may need to decrease clearance, ensure that the O-ring is tolerant of machine fluid, or replace the O-ring with a harder, more durable one.

3

Check for spiral failure if you have not seen the above two patterns. This looks like the O-ring has been twisted. This occurs when the seal becomes caught on one side but but is sliding and rolling on the other side. This can be fixed by improving surface finish, increased lubrication, or replacing the O-ring with a harder one.

4

Inspect for cracks or splits in the O-ring -- these are signs of explosive decompression. This happens when the O-ring has been operating under high pressure gas, which is then reduced quickly leaving gas trapped within the structure of the O-ring, causing ruptures. To avoid this, slow down decompression time, and select a sealant with resistance to decompression. If this is ineffective, replace the O-ring with a metal seal.

5

Examine the O-rings for abrasion.This looks like the O-ring has been scraped. This occurs when a proper surface finish is not being used. Inadequate lubrication is also a reason -- you may want to use internally-lubricated O-rings. You may need to install filters to avoid contamination of fluid.

There is a conductive metal rotor that spins inside the distributor cap of your 1993 Honda Civic. An electrical current feeds through the spinning rotor that contacts four separate posts inside the cap sending the current through the posts. The posts are attached to ignition wires which carry the current to the spark plugs. Each post is contacted at different times creating a firing order. If the firing order is off the engine will run poorly or not run at all. Check the firing order of your 1993 Honda Civic whenever a routine tune-up is performed.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your civic to locate the distributor cap. The distributor is a small plastic cap with five large ignition wires coming out of the top. The distributor is installed on the passenger side of the engine block. The cap is installed horizontally and points toward the passenger side.

2

Walk to the passenger side of the car and look at the distributor cap face. There are four ignition wires installed around the edges of the cap face at approximately 2:30, 4:30, 7:30 and 10:30 as if on a clock. Take a piece of paper and pencil and draw a simple diagram. Label the wire installed at 2:30 as number four. Label the wire installed at 4:30 as number two, 7:30 as number one, and 10:30 as number three. The fifth wire installed in the center of the cap is irrelevant.

3

Follow the four ignition wires to their other end. This is where the wires connect with the spark plugs on the engine block. Stand in front of the vehicle. Draw a separate diagram labeling the spark plugs in descending order from left to right. The left most spark plug, closest to the distributor cap is number four. The spark plug to the right of that is number three and then number two. The spark plug to the far right is number one.

4

Use the two diagrams to make sure the ignition wires connect the terminals on the distributor cap with the corresponding spark plugs. The ignition wire connecting the number one distributor terminal and spark plug should be the longest wire in length. Wire number two should be the second longest with number four being the shortest wire.

5

Start the engine to test the firing order. If installed properly, the engine should run smoothly and evenly, without skipping a cylinder. Turn off the engine immediately and re-examine the installation if the engine runs choppy.

The ignition system of an internal combustion engine delivers an electrical spark from a coil through a wire between the coil and the center post of a distributor cap. The spark then travels through a rotor on top of the distributor shaft and back through individual posts in the outer ring of the distributor cap, through the spark plug wires and to the spark plugs. If an engine does not start, or is constantly missing on one or more cylinders, chances are good that the problem is with the electrical spark to the spark plug. The only way to find the problem is to check the electrical spark at the distributor and coil, working out toward the plugs.

Instructions

1

Push the spring-loaded hooks on each side of the distributor cap down and turn them counterclockwise 90-degrees with a screwdriver to loosen the distributor cap. Lift the distributor cap off. Pull the rotor off the end of the distributor shaft.

2

Attach a jumper switch to the vehicles starter. Bump the switch until one of the lobes on the distributor cam aligns with the nylon cam follower on the ignition points. At this point the points should be open rather than together. Inspect the ignition points to ensure that there is no corrosion that will prevent electricity from flowing through them. If there is any corrosion on the points, replace them.

3

Slide a feeler gauge between the two open contacts on the ignition points. Ensure that the thickness of the feeler gauge is equal to the factory-specified gap setting. If the gauge does not fit between the contact points, or the gauge is too loose, adjust the points by loosening the adjustment screw, adjusting the mounting plate toward or away from the distributor shaft until you achieve the proper point gap. Tighten the mounting screw.

4

Inspect the rotor for burning or corrosion anywhere on the brass, mounted on the plastic rotor. If you find any burning corrosion, clean the rotor with a file or replace the rotor if the pitting from the corrosion is too deep.

5

Inspect the distributor for the same type of burning or corrosion. Clean or replace the distributor cap as needed. Reinstall the rotor on top of the distributor shaft. Reinstall the distributor.

6

Unplug the spark plug wires from the spark plugs by twisting them with a plug wire pliers and pulling them off the top of the spark plugs. Turn the vehicles ignition switch to the "on" position. Remove the thick black wire between the coil and the distributor, known as the coil wire, from the end of the coil. Hold the coil wire close to the coil with the plug wire pliers while operating the starter with the jumper switch. A spark should jump from the coil to the coil wire. If there is no spark between the coil wire and the coil, replace the coil and retest.

7

Plug the coil wire back into the coil and disconnect it from the center post of the distributor. While holding the coil wire with one hand and operating the jumper switch with the other, ensure that there is a spark between the coil wire and the distributor cap. If there is no spark, replace the coil wire with a new one, then retest.

8

Plug the coil wire back into the distributor. Pull one of the spark plug wires out of the top of the distributor. Hold it with the plug wire pliers and test as before. Repeat for all of the spark plug wires. If there is no spark between the distributor cap and the wires, replace the distributor cap and rotor, then retest.

9

Replace all the spark plug wires on the spark plugs. Start the engine. Remove the spark plug wires one at a time from the spark plugs and listen to engine performance. If an engine is missing, there is no perceptible change in engine idle when the plug wires removed, there is no spark between the wire and plug and there is a spark between the plug wire and the distributor, replace the spark plug wire.

You can check the OBD I codes on your 85 Camaro right from your home garage using a small, handheld device called an OBD reader. The On-Board Diagnostics computer in the Camaro receives trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the car. When one of these sensors detects a malfunction, it sends the code to the computer which, in turn, alerts you to a problem by illuminating a warning or service light on your instrument panel. You can read and clear the codes using an OBD reader which can be purchased from any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Locate the OBD reader port on the underside of the drivers side dashboard to the left of the steering column. Plug the OBD readers cable into this port. You may have to rotate it to make it fit into the port because it only plugs into it in one direction. Just make sure you dont force it in or you may damage the pins inside.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it toward you one click to the "ACC" or accessories position.

3

Turn the power switch on the OBD reader to the "on" position. Wait while the reader interfaces with the computer. When it has finished, it will display the alphanumeric trouble codes on the readers screen. Write down these codes and look up their meanings in the OBD readers manual.

4

Unplug the OBD reader from the port and turn off the vehicle. Have any necessary repairs or servicing done based on the diagnostic codes you retrieved.

Cylinder bores must fall within specific, factory-set tolerances to be considered useable. Check cylinders for visible damage and measure using precision measuring equipment such as micrometers and dial-bore indicators. Measurements taken at specific points of the bore indicate cylinder taper and out-of-round conditions that require machining to correct. Checking a cylinder bore requires knowledge of the proper use of the precision measuring equipment as well as the factory specifications as set by the manufacturer. Disassemble the engine to remove the cylinder head and pistons prior to checking the cylinder bore.

Instructions

1

Visually inspect the cylinder for signs of lateral scoring, galling and partial piston seizure.

2

Feel the top of the cylinder for a shoulder using your fingernail. The shoulder will form right at the top of the unswept portion of the cylinder bore above where the top compression ring ceases to travel upwards. Hone the cylinder to remove the shoulder, if one is present.

3

Install an arbor on the dial-bore indicator so the plunger on the indicator is roughly in the center of its travel when placed within the bore.

4

Set an outside micrometer to the small end of the cylinder diameter specification as indicated by the manufacturer. Record the micrometer setting on a piece of paper.

5

Place the dial-bore indicator in the micrometer and rotate the bezel on the indicator gauge until the zero aligns with the needle. Remove the indicator from the micrometer.

6

Measure the top of the cylinder on the X axis using the dial-bore indicator. Record the number indicated by the gauge and add that number to the micrometer setting number. Record the final sum. Repeat this process on the Y axis at the top of the cylinder. Record the final sum next to the top X axis number.

7

Repeat the process in the middle and at the bottom of the bore, pairing the X and Y axis measurements together.

8

Compare the X and Y axis number pairs. A difference in the bore diameter within any given pair indicates an out-of-round condition.

9

Compare the top, middle and bottom number pairs. A difference in the bore diameter between the position groups indicate a cylinder taper condition.

10

Measure the outside diameter of the piston skirt even with, and 90 degrees from, the wrist pin boss area. Compare the piston diameter to the largest and smallest bore diameter to determine the piston-to-cylinder clearance range.

11

Compare all measurements to the manufacturers tolerances to determine whether the bore is within service specifications or if machine work is needed.

A defective ignition coil pack can fire sporadically and generate a weak spark, producing a variety of different problems with your engines performance. The coils are extremely susceptible to heat, and can produce an irregular problem when heat has weakened the internal components. Fortunately, you can use a simple voltmeter to test the ignition coil pack on your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Put the vehicle in park and make sure the emergency brake is pulled up. Open up the hood of the vehicle. Find the coil pack located inside the engine. Disconnect the spark plugs from the spark plug wires. The spark plug wires are joined to the coil pack.

2

Disconnect the coil packs electrical connector. Utilize the wrench to take off the pack and remove it from the engine.

3

Switch on the meter. Put the ohmmeter to 20000 ohms then touch the meter leads to the coils. This will check the ignition coil pack. Compare the readings to the specs provided in your cars service manual. Determine if the readings you have are in range of the settings in the manual.

If your vehicle isnt starting when the engine is turning over, you may not be getting spark to the spark plugs through the ignition coil. You can check this by performing a simple test. This task is relatively easy but you will need an assistant so that you can simultaneously perform some of the necessary functions detailed in the procedure. Figuring out the cause of the problem that you are experiencing with your vehicle is half the battle.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle on a flat surface.

2

Open your hood to access your engine compartment.

3

Pull the nearest spark plug wire off the top of the spark plug to expose the end of the wire

4

Connect the exposed end of the wire to the top of an extra spark plug. Set the spark plug against one of the metal surfaces on the engine.

5

Ask your assistant to start the vehicle. If you see a spark come from the spark plug, then there is spark coming from the ignition coil because the wire is attached to the ignition coil.

On the inside of every ignition coil are two groups of windings which wrap around an iron core. The primary windings have a couple hundred turns around the core, while the secondary windings have turns numbering in the thousands. When problems within an ignition coil are suspected, having information on how to check these windings can be beneficial.

Check Primary

To check the primary windings of an ignition coil, a digital ohmmeter will be needed. The ohmmeters positive and negative test leads will have to be connected to the coils positive and negative terminals. A reading of 0.4 to 2 ohms is normal while a zero reading means the coil has a short in it.

Check Secondary

To check the secondary windings, you will also need a digital ohmmeter. The ohmmeters positive test lead will need to be attached to the coils positive terminal. The ohmmeters other test lead will have to be connected to the coils high voltage output terminal. Normal readings for newer coils is around 6,000 ohms while older ones can have much higher readings.

Warning

When checking for a spark, never take off the coils high voltage wire. Not only can it harm the coil but it can give you a serious electric shock as well.

The Tacoma is a compact pickup truck that Toyota has been manufacturing since 1995. You can read the codes pertaining to the "Check Engine" light on your 2000 Toyota Tacoma. The On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II) computer receives trouble codes from various sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. It alerts you to any trouble codes pertaining to the emissions system or engine by illuminating the "Check Engine" light on your instrument panel. You can read these codes using an OBD II code reader. This computerized hand-held device can be purchased from any auto parts retailer. This is an easy job that should take about 10 minutes to complete.

Instructions

1

Find the DLC port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column. Plug the connective end of the OBD II scan tool into this port. You may have to rotate it to make it fit. Make sure you dont force it in or it may bend the pins inside.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On/Off" position. This powers on most scan tools. If not, find the power switch on the scan tool and turn it on.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command on the scan tool. Wait for the scan tool to display the codes. Write the codes on a piece of paper and look up their meaning in the scan tools manual.

4

Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle. Have the necessary repairs made according to the codes diagnosis.