Repair And Fix it

Ascertain the headlight switch is broken or in poor condition by repeatedly testing its operation. With the key in the cars ignition and switched on, rapidly activate the switch. The headlights should immediately turn on with no delay or hesitation. The switch should have a solid feel to it, and you should be able to tell when the switch is on or off just by feel as the switch snaps or pops into the correct position.

Look for tell-tale signs that the switch is worn out; common symptoms of a worn switch include any slight hesitation before the lights turn on, less than 100 percent success control of the headlights when rapidly turning the switch on/off repeatedly, inability for you to tell if the lights should be on by simply looking at the physical position of the light switch, flickering of the headlights when the switch is move to and from any position.

Replace the switch if you notice symptoms of a worn or failing switch. Purchase a complete headlight switch kit that is compatible with your vehicle. Most automotive stores have compatibility charts that identify headlight switch kits that will work for your year make and model vehicle.

Disconnect the negative battery cable (black lead) that connects the car battery to the wiring harness. This can be accomplished by loosening the nut and bolt that holds it in place with a crescent wrench (see "Warnings").

Remove the knob and light switch simultaneously. There is often a release button that will allow you to do this. If you dont feel a release button (located under the dash board on the side of the switch) unscrew the bezel (round cover securing the switch to the dashboard). Do not try to force anything, just ascertain how the switch is held in place and remove it from the dashboard with the wiring in the rear of the switch still intact.

Open the replacement switch packaging and check to see if your new switch kit contains a bezel removal tool if you are having difficulty removing the old switch. Many aftermarket kits include this small tool with no mention made of this on the exterior of the switch packaging.

Remove the locking bezel, then gently pull the switch so that here is slack in the electrical wiring connected to the rear of the switch. In most vehicles, this means holding the old switch in an odd position beneath the dashboard. Note the position of the colored wires leading into the switch.

Remove the color coded wires from the old switch one wire at a time and insert them into the new switch. Most switch kits allow the old wires to simply plug in to the new switches. Take care to get them all color coded as they were on the old switch assembly. Gently insert the new headlight switch into its proper place within the dash console. As always, avoid performing this step with undue force. Doing so could lead to breaking the headlight switch or causing other damage to the vehicle.

Reconnect the battery negative terminal and tighten with a crescent wrench. Test the new switch in the same manner as you tested the old switch. You will see and feel a remarkable difference in the new switch performance. Replace any ornamental mounting trim as required.

Measure the distance from your battery source to the location of the fan. Include in the length any turns or extra footage required for the route. Refer to a wire chart to select the proper gauge and type wire for your project. Marine applications require different considerations than land-based wiring of 12 volt fans.

Disconnect the battery by removing the cable to the positive terminal. Attach one end of the positive wire to the cable that will be reconnected to the positive side of the battery. Attach the other end to the positive connector on the fan. Attach one end of the negative wire to the negative connector on the fan, and attach the other end to a ground location or the negative side of the battery.

Reattach the batterys positive cable to the battery terminal. Test the fan by flipping the on and off switch.

Attach the wires at several locations along the route with wire clips to prevent the wires from chaffing or being damaged later. Place them behind trim to hide them from view.

Place two 12-volt automotive batteries in a battery hold-down box or on a rigid shelf. The batteries should be positioned next to each other so that the positive post of one battery is nearest to the negative post of the other one.

Secure the batteries to the battery box or shelf. If no tie-down apparatus is available, a suitable system to secure the two 12-volt batteries to the battery box or shelf is to place a small ratcheting load binder over top of the two batteries and attach the two binder ends to the battery shelf or battery box, one on each side of the batteries.

Join the positive battery post from one 12-volt battery to the negative post of the other 12-volt battery using a battery cable equipped with a positive terminal on one end and a negative terminal on the other end.

Connect the two unconnected battery posts, one from each battery to any device as needed. Remember that these two batteries are now joined in a series and yield 24 volts at the two unconnected posts. Adhere to the polarity of the now 24-volt series by connecting the open positive post to the positive and the open negative post to the negative terminal of the device to be powered.

Prop open the hood over your Chevrolets engine. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative terminal. Wait at least five minutes until residual power within the vehicle has drained off.

Open your passenger side door, and then open the glove box.

Remove the glove box. How to do this depends on the model and year of your Chevrolet vehicle. Most often, the process involves releasing retaining clips, as well as stops on both sides of the glove box. Also depending on the model, you can either let the box hang down on its hinges, or you will have to remove the hinges to get the box completely out of the dashboard. For most Chevys with an ECM, the computer is located behind the glove box, and the box needs to be partially or fully removed for reasons of access.

Disconnect the wirings harness connectors from the ECM. You do not need tools for this task. The connectors look similar to an Ethernet cable, but only larger.

Remove the bolts holding the ECM to the ECMs retaining fixture.

Remove the old ECM and place its replacement onto the retaining fixture. Refasten the old retaining bolts.

Wire the new ECM to your Chevy. Take both wiring harness connectors and insert them into their appropriate ports on the new ECM. The larger harness connector will attach to the ECM in the larger left slot. The smaller Harness connector will attach to the smaller slot on the right.

Park your vehicle on a flat surface.

Open your hood to access your engine compartment.

Pull the nearest spark plug wire off the top of the spark plug to expose the end of the wire

Connect the exposed end of the wire to the top of an extra spark plug. Set the spark plug against one of the metal surfaces on the engine.

Ask your assistant to start the vehicle. If you see a spark come from the spark plug, then there is spark coming from the ignition coil because the wire is attached to the ignition coil.

Make a function chart of the wires you are connecting by color. Use that chart to mate the correct connections in the male and female plugs.

Plug the plastic plugs together before wiring to ascertain proper fit and test the locking/polarity mechanism.

Read the manufacturers recommended crimper size for your connector pins. Failure to use the proper size can break the pins or make a weak connection.

Strip an exact length of insulation off the end of each wire that will allow 1/16 inch of wire to protrude past the wire crimp section while the insulation end fits in the insulation crimp section. Twist the strands of each wire tightly.

Lay the wire into the pin and hold it in place. Lay the wire crimp section of the pin into the correctly-sized section of the crimper, round side down into the round side of the crimper. Bear down the W-shaped side of the crimper so the open wings of the pin bend in and down into the wire strand bundle.

Use the technique in the previous step to crimp the insulation crimp section into the wire insulation.

Slide each connected pin into its slot in the plastic housing until their tangs click into position, keeping them from backing out of the housing when you mate the plugs.