Repair And Fix it

There are many reasons to tow a Honda Civic on a tow dolly. A tow dolly is designed to pull a vehicle behind another vehicle with the idle wheels -- non-driving wheels -- on the the ground and the driving wheels off the ground. Some vehicles require a long process to prepare the vehicle for towing on a dolly. The Civic, however, has a very straightforward towing process when using a dolly and requires no special preparation.

Instructions

1

Park the tow dolly and the Civic on a flat surface. Position the Civic about 8 to 10 feet behind the rear of the dolly.

2

Grab the dollys ramps and pull them outward until they are fully extended and lay them on the ground.

3

Enter the Civic and start the ignition.

4

Place the vehicle in "Drive" for automatic or "First Gear" if operating a standard transmission and slowly drive towards the ramps, using your assistant to guide you.

5

Continue driving up the ramps, with the guidance of your assistant.

6

Stop the Civic when your guide tells you that you have reached the dollys platform, the area where the cars front wheels set in.

7

Place the Civic in "Neutral," set the parking brake, turn the ignition off and exit the Civic.

8

Place the dollys ratcheting straps over the Civics wheels, as instructed in the dollys instructions. Tighten the straps using the ratchets until the vehicles front wheels are secure.

9

Remove the key from the Civics ignition, place the Civics gear selector in "Park" if equipped with an automatic or "First" if equipped with a manual transmission and release the parking brake.

10

Accelerate and stop slowly and evenly, as hard acceleration or braking can cause damage to the towing vehicle.

11

Negotiate tight turns caully, as the tow dolly will take turns slightly tighter than the towing vehicle. Pay close attention to your side view mirrors when in tight turns.

There were only two engines available for the Massey Ferguson 175 over the span of the 11-year production run of this model. Both engines are 4-cylinder motors, one a diesel and the other gasoline powered. Only the latter has an ignition system, naturally. Troubleshooting a breaker point ignition system is a straightforward task, but all components involved must function correctly to deliver voltage where and when its needed.

Instructions

1

Set the multi-meter to the voltage scale that registers 0 to 20 volts. Check the voltage at the battery terminals. Charge the battery if the voltage is less than 12.5 volts. Clean the battery cable connections if any corrosion is present.

2

Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Measure the voltage at the primary side of the ignition coil. Replace the ignition switch or connecting wires if no voltage is present at the primary terminal of the ignition coil.

3

Measure the resistance of the primary ignition coil windings. Turn the ignition switch off and set the multi-meter to the lowest ohm scale. Place the tester leads on both ignition coil terminals. Replace the coil if resistance exceeds 5 ohms.

4

Replace the breaker points if they appear corroded or pitted. Replace the condenser, if no faults are found elsewhere. You can test the condenser with the proper equipment, but the cost of a new one is minimal.

While a vehicle with a cracked radiator remains operable and can be driven as long as you ensure it remains continually full of water, doing so is not a good idea. The radiator and the coolant that it holds performs a number of crucial functions for proper engine operation. A crack in the radiator will reduce pressure, introduce air into the system and foul the ground with poison. Even if you stop to fill the radiator regularly, the breach in the system will ultimately affect the engine overall.

Overheating

The primary purpose of a radiator is to cool the engine. When a radiator is cracked, coolant leaks from the radiator, causing the level to fall, resulting in improper cooling or a complete loss of cooling. Overheating an engine can result in a damaged or ruined engine.

Loss of Lubrication

In addition to cooling the engine, antifreeze lubricates the water pump. When the radiator is low on antifreeze or even filled with just water, no coolant, the water pump is not properly being lubricated, which can cause premature pump failure.

Expense

While the primary reason that one might choose to drive with a cracked radiator is to avoid the cost of repair or replacement, the costs of antifreeze and damage to the vehicle will far outweigh any short-term savings. To save money, a car owner may choose to repair the damaged radiator or to purchase a used one.

Airless sprayers work by pumping out paint from a small tip on a spray gun. There are no air compressors, nor is air involved in any way to move the paint. Airless sprayers are very efficient and will apply paint very quickly over a large area. If you are using an airless sprayer to paint your car, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Instructions

1

Cover all areas of your car that are not to be painted. An airless sprayer is not as easy to control as a brush, so do not take any chances that you may accidently spray a mirror or glass. When spraying, the airless sprayer paint will create a cloud of paint that will settle. Wear a protective covering.

2

Keep the spray gun aimed at the area that you want to paint. Never point it towards yourself. Move your hand in a horizontal motion while spraying. Do not stop to spray as you will create a heavy concentration of paint in one area.

3

Begin moving your hand from side to side. Once you have a steady motion, begin to pull the trigger.

4

Release the trigger before stopping motion of your hands when you are ready to quit painting.

5

Clean the sprayer so that no paint builds up and dries up inside.

Prior to the early 1990s, most automotive air-conditioning systems were cooled with R12 refrigerant. The discovery of R12 as harmful to the ozone layer resulted in it being removed from use in favor of the cheaper and more environmentally friendly R134a refrigerant. Due to the unavailability of R12, many owners of vehicles made prior to the early 1990s must replace the R12 in their current systems with R134a.

Instructions

1

Recover any remaining R12 within the air-conditioning system. Use a refrigerant recovery machine to remove the R12 and let the system hold a vacuum for at least five minutes. Repeat the recovery process if the system displays a positive pressure after five minutes. Do not release the R12 into the air, as it is a federal offense to do so.

2

Flush any remaining R12 mineral oil out of the system. The mineral oil used with R12 is not compatible with the PAG oil used with R134a. Mixing the two oils will result in premature compressor failure. Replace the accumulator or dryer with a unit that contains desiccant that is compatible with R134a.

3

Inspect the lines, expansion valve, orifice tube and pressure switches for any signs of wear. Replace the components as necessary; otherwise the components may cause the R134a to leak out.

4

Install a high pressure cut-off switch. Due to the higher pressures associated with R134a, some compressors may need such a switch for increased durability. Install the R134a high side and low side service port fittings and apply the R134a retrofit label that meets SAE requirements in an easily visible location within the engine bay, as required by Section 608 of the Clean Air Act of 1990.

5

Add the proper amount of R134a PAG lubricating oil into the air-conditioning system. The amount of PAG oil needed depends on the vehicle manufacturers requirements.

6

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with a deep vacuum pump. This will help remove moisture and excess air from the system. Allow the pump to draw at least 28 in/Hg of vacuum for 10 minutes, then disconnect the pump and allow the system to sit for another 10 minutes. If the system does not lose vacuum, reconnect the pump and finish evacuating the system for another 20 minutes.

7

With the engine running and air-conditioning system on at its highest fan setting, add the correct amount of R134a to the air-conditioning system. This amount depends on the systems capacity as specified by the vehicle manufacturer. As you add R134a, the compressor will begin to cycle on and off. Do not overcharge the system, as this can damage the compressor and other components. Use a temperature gauge to check the vent temperature inside the car. The temperature should fall at or below 42 degrees Fahrenheit.

8

Check the air-conditioning system for leaks. Some brands of R134a come with a UV leak detector that is visible under a UV lamp.

Until You See Grease Near Wheel Area

One of the first signs of CV joints going bad is when the caps of the CV joints break from the structure. This will cause grease to accumulate in the CV joint area, which is located between the front wheels of the car. If you see such an occurrence, take the car for maintenance immediately.

When You Hear Clicking and Popping Sounds

When the CV joints go bad, you will hear a popping or a clicking sound coming from the steering wheel. The more damaged the CV joints become, the louder and more intense the sound will be. Each time you turn the steering wheel, the clicking or popping sound will resonate. This indicates serious damage.

Bottom Line

CV joints can break easily and rapidly. Within a matter of weeks, the CV joints can become so bad that the maintenance cost will be very high. The sooner you fix the damaged CV joints, the lower the cost will be. Therefore, regularly examine the CV joint area to check for grease buildup. If you see no buildup, but begin to hear clicking or popping sounds, have the car fixed.

The VW Passat is a four-door sedan that comes with a manual or automatic transmission. If your VW Passat will not start properly, it might be a problem with the starter. The starter on your Passat sends an electrical signal from the battery to the engine when the key is engaged in the ignition. You can test the starter with minimal automotive knowledge and little hassle.

Instructions

1

Park your VW Passat on a flat surface. Engage the emergency brake to secure the car from rolling. Make a note of the security code for your Passats radio. You can find this in the owners manual.

2

Open the hood and use a wrench to disconnect the black cable from the battery on the right side of the engine. Go under the car and check for the engine shield. Use a wrench to remove the shield if your car has one (some models do not use an engine shield).

3

Pull the shield out from under the car and locate the starter. The starter is located on the right side of the engines bottom. Disconnect the red cable from the car battery, then connect the red and black leads from your voltmeter to the starters red and black wires going to the battery.

4

Look at the instrument display for a reading. If you do not get a 12-volt reading, you either need to replace the starter or the battery. Test the battery terminals with your voltmeter and replace the battery if needed.

You can read your Saturns service light using an OBDII reader right from your own garage, saving yourself time and money. The Saturn has an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer that notifies the driver of problems with the vehicle. It also alerts you to when you need to perform regular routine maintenance and service on your car. To find out exactly what type of servicing your Saturn needs, you can read the computer codes using an OBDII reader. These readers come with a booklet that translates the numerical codes, although some readers display the codes description on the devices screen.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Do not start the engine.

2

Locate an open port under the steering column near the fuse panel. Make sure its the same size and shape as the connective end on your OBDII reader. Plug the OBDII reader into this port. The Saturns electrical system will automatically power most OBDII readers.

3

Wait for the device to read the codes. Look up the service codes in the booklet, if the description isnt displayed automatically on the readers display. Write down the code and description on a piece of paper.

4

Unplug the reader and turn off the vehicle. Take your vehicle, and the code and description to your mechanic to have the vehicle serviced.

Two ways are available to get a Harley with a more open, unrestricted exhaust, unless you live in California. The most economical way is to drill a one inch hole through the stock baffles of your Harley. You need a bit at least eight inches long and you must drill in the center of the baffles. Proponents believe this simple solution to the overly restrictive stock exhaust can produce up to seven more horsepower. But, this approach will not work with Harleys sold in California because the catalytic converter gets in the way. Most riders simply replace their exhaust with aftermarket pipes. Here is how you do that.

Instructions

1

Make sure your engine and exhaust pipes are cool. Cover the frame, engine, swing arm and rear wheel behind your exhaust with clean rags so you will not scratch your paint or chrome. Loosen all nuts and bolts that attach the exhaust system to your motorcycle with a socket wrench or box wrenches.

2

Find the exhaust support bracket behind the exhaust pipes and remove it with a socket and wrench. Spray penetrating oil around each muffler where it joins the exhaust pipe. Wait five minutes and then pull the mufflers off with your hands. Repeat as necessary.

3

Find and loosen the oxygen sensor with a box wrench. Disconnect the oxygen sensor with your hands. Disconnect the head pipes with a socket wrench. Remove and save the retainer rings and clamps from your old pipes for reuse.

4

Bolt on the new mounting bracket included with your replacement exhaust. Always use wrenches to turn bolts. Use a thread locker on the threads. Install the retainer rings and clamps from your old exhaust on your new exhaust with your fingers and a screwdriver.

5

Your new exhaust will probably be a one piece exhaust without slip-on mufflers. Bolt your new exhaust to your exhaust manifold and the new mounting bracket. Hand tighten all bolts and then wrench tighten.

6

Apply Teflon paste to the heat sensor and reconnect. If supplied as separate pieces, insert the new baffle or baffles into the tail pipes. Attach the new heat shields with a flat-head screwdriver.

Purchasing a rebuilt engine or having your car serviced with a tear-down and rebuild of its existing engine involves a significant outlay of money. However, the option is still cost-effective when compared to the price of a new car. Rebuilt engines dont just plug in and work reliably once purchased. Many parts and systems from the existing car need to be integrated with the rebuilt engine, and the process can introduce unexpected problems.

Quality is as Good as the Mechanic

Rebuilt engines depend significantly on the labor process. If the mechanic is knowledgeable about the engine, the likelihood is good the repair will be reliable. If its the mechanics first time with an unfamiliar engine, problems in assembly may occur.

Assembly replacement engines are built under factory specifications and are put together following set criteria on the assembly line. The error rate of a bad engine tends to be fairly small.

Part Issues

After-market replacement parts do not always have the same quality tolerances as the original parts. These inferior parts will break down faster, even in rebuilt engines.

Labor Costs

Rebuilt engines are not likely to work perfectly, but the owner bears the responsibility for the cost of the service and rebuild, even if the engine has problems later on.

Even without mechanical issues, a rebuilt engine is expensive. The average car mechanic labor cost runs between $80 to $100 per hour. This includes the complete tear-down and then rebuild, not to mention replacement parts.

Warranty Issues

Some rebuilt engines purchased as assemblies are only covered for up to 90 days on a warranty basis.

More common, shop warranties on service rebuilt engines tend to be three years or 36,000 miles, if all instructions are followed on care and maintenance. However, some shops will rebuild engines with warranties lasting in some cases as much as 100,000 miles.

In order to wire 24-volts with two batteries and gain optimum power, a serial connection should be used. Batteries arraigned in series are quite common. A tube flashlight that holds four batteries is a serial connection when all the batteries are inserted into the tube with the nub, or positive terminal up. Four 1.5-volt batteries in a serial connection will yield six volts. In order to yield 24-volts from a two-battery connection, two 12-volt batteries are needed. This connection is popular in large trucks, construction equipment and some recreational vehicles.

Instructions

1

Place two 12-volt automotive batteries in a battery hold-down box or on a rigid shelf. The batteries should be positioned next to each other so that the positive post of one battery is nearest to the negative post of the other one.

2

Secure the batteries to the battery box or shelf. If no tie-down apparatus is available, a suitable system to secure the two 12-volt batteries to the battery box or shelf is to place a small ratcheting load binder over top of the two batteries and attach the two binder ends to the battery shelf or battery box, one on each side of the batteries.

3

Join the positive battery post from one 12-volt battery to the negative post of the other 12-volt battery using a battery cable equipped with a positive terminal on one end and a negative terminal on the other end.

4

Connect the two unconnected battery posts, one from each battery to any device as needed. Remember that these two batteries are now joined in a series and yield 24 volts at the two unconnected posts. Adhere to the polarity of the now 24-volt series by connecting the open positive post to the positive and the open negative post to the negative terminal of the device to be powered.

HEMI engines are some of the most powerful automobiles engines in production. According to some Dodge owners, occasionally, HEMI engines make a "ticking" noise. For the most part, the noise level increases as more miles are driven

Possible Causes

Some mechanics have reported the "ticking" noise is normal with the Dodge Ram, and several owners have stated they have had no significant problems with their HEMI engines. However, other owners have replaced the injectors, spark plugs and fuel emission system to try to lower the noise level.

Considerations

The HEMI engine is meant for a heavy duty workload. Dodge Rams with HEMI engines are meant to be work trucks and not luxury vehicles. Engine horsepower and durability should be the major concerns for Ram owners rather than noise level.

Theories/Speculation

Dodge Rams come with Check Engine lights that turn on if there is a major problem with the engine. If the Check Engine light is not on, but the noise level is still getting louder, then the noise is not interfering with the engines functionality. The noise might be more of an annoyance than a mechanical problem.

For years standard pickup trucks have been converted to snow plows for personal and commercial snow removal. The weight of the plow can cause the front end of a plow truck to sag. This not only looks bad but can cause dangerous driving conditions and damage to the vehicles suspension components. Upgrading the front suspension will save money by reducing future costly repairs.

Instructions

1

Choose a new suspension kit ideal for the use of the vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in non-winter months, choose an air-filled suspension system, which will allow air to be added and removed depending on the season. This type of suspension is usually better at handling increased weight while providing a comfortable ride year round.

2

Add weight to the back of truck with sandbags. The rear weight not only assists in leveling the truck but also provides additional traction.

3

Install the new front end suspension kit following the included instructions or consult with a automotive repair facility.

4

Attach the plow to the truck.

5

Fill the suspension system with air, using an air compressor until the truck is level.

6

Release air pressure from the suspension system when the plow is removed from the vehicle.

Older engines and those that suffer under extreme conditions of hot and cold typically manifest oil-leak issues over time. While carbon gaskets are standard parts used to seal between engine parts bolted together, even custom-shaped gaskets dont stop oil leaks 100 percent. Silicone sealant can be used to address these issues on older engine parts. The engine parts already should be taken apart from the engine assembly to prepare for silicone use.

Instructions

1

Pour a gallon or more of fresh kerosene into a plastic bucket or large bin in an area with sufficient air flow. Place the engine parts to be used in the bucket. Let them soak in the kerosene for at least 10 minutes. Pull the parts up one at a time and scrub them with a plastic brush, removing dirt and grime. Rinse the scrubbed part with more kerosene.

2

Take the scrubbed part and lay it out on a flattened cardboard mat to dry out outside. Do not let parts dry indoors. Pour the dirty kerosene back into its original container when finished washing the engine parts.

3

Take the washed parts after they are dry and give them a final wipe with a disposable paper towel. Pay special attention to the mating surfaces of the parts that will join together. Take a plastic scraper or spreader and go along the entire mating surface of an engine part removing any leftover fiber gasket or burnt carbon. Do not use a metal scraper as it will scar the mating surface.

4

Take two matching engine parts and assemble their internals as necessary. Take a tube of high-temperature silicone sealant and spread it carefully along the mating surface of one engine part. Do the same on the second side. Apply the silicone sealant, so it will sandwich between when the engine parts are joined.

5

Position the engine parts, so they can be closed up while the silicone is still wet. Push them together carefully, so the sealant doesnt get twisted or moved wrong. Insert the tightening bolts and nuts. Use a crescent wrench to hold one side of the bolt in place. Tighten each bolt and nut to the proper tightness with a torque wrench and the torque setting specifications for your particular engine. Wipe off the remaining silicone that squeezes off the engine part sides when finished tightening.

The Chevrolet Tahoe has been a reliable seller for General Motors over the years; as of 2009, it even introduced a hybrid model which was one of the first full-size SUV types available. The Chevy Tahoe has had its problems, though, such as recalls for fire hazards and seat issues.

Electrical System

Since 2008, the Chevrolet Tahoe has been recalled for electrical problems that may cause a fire hazard. This recall deals with the circuit board located under the dashboard of the Tahoe. The manufacturer originally installed a fuse to compensate for the overload but recalled the Tahoe again because this correction did not completely fix the problem. The real culprit was not the circuit board but a fuel system control module that was wrapped in adhesive material which separated easily. This caused water to seep into the module, resulting in the fuel system module to short out, thus creating a fire hazard. All Chevy Tahoe owners should take their vehicles into the dealership for this repair if the vehicle is a 2008 or newer model.

Interior Accessories

Many of the problems with the Chevy Tahoe have been focused around the interior accessories, such as rattling noises in the ceiling panel and door panels as well as the inferior quality of the interior trim, dashboard and chrome on the door handles. The most important issue with the interior accessories has been the drivers seat jamming into place.

Check Engine Light

The 2009 and 2010 Chevy Tahoes have experienced problems with the check engine light coming on when the scheduled service is not due or has recently been performed. This problem is attributable to the gas cap. If it is not properly secured or is loose, the check engine light will remain on until the cap is tightened. The gas caps have also been wearing very quickly, preventing them from remaining secure on the vehicle. Tahoe owners need to contact their dealership for a new gas cap to correct this problem if the vehicle is still under warranty.