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Showing posts with label the. Show all posts

Monday, November 17, 2014

How to Clean the Enricher on Your Sportster

How to Clean the Enricher on Your Sportster

Harley-Davidson calls them enrichers. Everybody else calls them chokes. When you pull out the knob under the left side of your gas tank you increase, or fatten, the percentage of gasoline in your carburetors gas-fuel mix. Pushing the knob in leans the fuel mixture. The knob is attached to a cable that attaches to an enricher valve inside the body of your carburetor. Maintaining and lubricating this cable is a standard procedure you should perform on your Sportster every 2,500 miles or every two months.

Instructions

    1

    Put the motorcycle in first gear. Turn off the engine, lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand and let the engine go cold.

    2

    Fully extend the enricher knob. Unhook the enricher cable from the clip under the gas tank near the horn. Wipe the exposed cable, knob and clip with a rag.

    3

    Spray cable lubricant on the enricher cable and inside the enricher cable guide tube under the gas tank. Wipe up drips with the rag.

    4

    Refasten the enricher cable to the clip near the horn. Pull and push the enricher knob in and out to distribute the lubricant along the full length of the enricher cable.

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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger

The Ford Ranger pickup truck comes with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. It may have a 6-cylinder 3.0L or a 6-cylinder 4.0L engine, and all versions of the Ford Ranger use electronic fuel injection. The fuel pump on this vehicle uses high pressure, and is located on the fuel tank. This makes it necessary to remove the fuel tank before replacing the fuel pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger.

Instructions

    1

    Relieve the pressure in the fuel system, and disconnect the fuel tank. Clean the area around the attaching flange for the fuel pump with a shop rag. This will prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank when you replace the fuel pump.

    2

    Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counter-clockwise with a locking ring removal tool. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank, including the bracket. Remove the gasket for the fuel pump.

    3

    Apply a thin layer of heavy grease to the new fuel pump gasket, and install it into the ring groove on the fuel tank. Place the new fuel pump assembly into position in the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump, and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

    4

    Connect the fuel tank onto the vehicle, and put at least ten gallons of gas into the fuel tank. Fix any fuel leaks, and connect a pressure gauge to the throttle body valve. Turn the ignition on for three seconds without starting the engine, and turn it off for three seconds. Repeat this at least five times to pressurize the fuel system to at least 30 pounds per square inch, or PSI.

    5

    Check the vehicle and fix any leaks. Disconnect the pressure gauge, and start the engine. Check the vehicle again, and fix any leaks.

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Thursday, September 4, 2014

How to Replace the Starter on a 2002 Camry

How to Replace the Starter on a 2002 Camry

The starter on the 2002 Toyota Camry is a cylindrical piece located on the lower part of the engine on the drivers side of the vehicle. Its positioned between the transmission and transmission cross member and is bolted to the bell housing. The starter is responsible for the initial cranking power needed to turn the engines pistons.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the negative battery cable connector from the battery with a crescent wrench. This cuts off power to the Camrys starter.

    2

    Remove the wiring harness from the starter solenoid by pulling the wire connector off the male connector on the solenoid.

    3

    Disconnect the black grounding wire from the side of the starter by removing the bolt with a crescent wrench.

    4

    Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing with a 9/16 socket.

    5

    Pull the old starter out of the bell housing and then place the new starter into the bell housing.

    6

    Bolt the starter in place.

    7

    Reconnect the ground wire to the side of the Camrys starter.

    8

    Reconnect the starter solenoid wiring harness.

    9

    Reconnect the negative battery cable.

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Saturday, June 7, 2014

How to Change the Time in an 03 Passat

The 2003 Volkswagen Passat, including the GL, GLS, GLX and W8 4motion, features several standard and optional convenience options. All models include a liquid crystal display clock on the instrument cluster below the tachometer. Changing the time is an easy task that does not require any special tools or automotive knowledge.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the ignition switch to the RUN or ACC position.

    2

    Examine the instrument panel and locate the digital clock display.

    3

    Take note of the correct time, using a watch or cell phone.

    4

    Turn and hold the small plastic knob below the tachometer, using a counterclockwise motion to incrementally increase the hours. Release the knob when the correct hour is displayed.

    5

    Turn and hold the knob clockwise to adjust the minutes. Release the button when finished.

    6

    Turn the ignition to the OFF position to complete the process.

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Friday, June 6, 2014

How to Locate the PVC Valve on a 2003 Buick LeSabre

How to Locate the PVC Valve on a 2003 Buick LeSabre

The 2003 Buick Lesabre has a history of engine gasket failures. The intake manifold and oil pan gaskets are common replacement requirements that can cost you in excess of $700 to have repaired. Replacing the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (PCV) can keep crankcase gases from building up in the engine and extend the life of the gaskets. The PCV valve is often overlooked as a maintenance item on this engine due to its location.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood. Remove the oil filler cap. Remove the oil filler neck by twisting it counterclockwise until it releases. Remove the engine cover by lifting the front of it and pulling it towards you to release the rear mounting tap.

    2

    Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold towards the front of the engine. This sensor will have three wires- orange/black, light green, and grey. Lift the connector locking tab and remove the connector. Remove the MAP sensor by releasing the locking tabs with the screwdriver.

    3

    Remove the PCV valve cover under the MAP sensor by pressing a 5/8 -inch socket against it and twisting it counterclockwise a quarter turn. Remove the PCV valve and the O-ring. Wipe oil and debris from the mounting area.

    4

    Install the new PCV valve and O-ring by pressing it firmly into place. Install the PCV cover plate by pushing down on it with the socket and twisting it clockwise until it stops. Replace the seal on the MAP sensor if it is damaged. Install the map sensor slowly, taking care not to damage the mounting tabs. Snap the wiring connector into place.

    5

    Install the engine cover, making sure that the rear tab is inserted into the mounting bracket. Replace the seal on the oil filler neck if damaged. Install the oil filler neck. Install the oil filler cap.

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The Symptoms of a VW Belt Tensioner Pulley

The Symptoms of a VW Belt Tensioner Pulley

The Volkswagen (VW) belt tensioner pulley tightens the serpentine belt that turns the engine accessories, such as the air-conditioning compressor and water pump. The newer model VWs have an automatic tensioner pulley that tightens the serpentine belt as it stretches, but the older model VWs have a tensioner pulley that needs to be adjusted. The tensioner pulley shows symptoms when it is going out or requiring replacement.

Serpentine Belt Squealing

    The VW belt tensioner pulley can become too tight or too weak, allowing the serpentine belt to wear prematurely or slip under normal operating conditions. The belt begins to squeal when the tensioner pulley is not tight enough, causing the engine to overheat because the water pump is not operating efficiently. This symptom can be caused by the tensioner pulley spring, which weakens over time and does not place enough tension on the belt. The serpentine belt can also begin to run too hot and prematurely fail. The tensioner pulley needs to be replaced when these symptoms occur.

Engine Overheats

    The engine in the VW can overheat when there is a problem with the belt tensioner pulley. This symptom is caused by corrosion building up on the tensioner pulley that does not allow the pulley to adjust the serpentine belt. When corrosion builds up, the pulley becomes jammed or does not rotate, causing the serpentine belt to stretch and loosen on the engine accessories. The corrosion does not allowing the pulley to adjust to the stretched belt, creating the water pump problem. This corrosion is generally caused by road debris and dampness splashing onto the tensioner pulley. Proper lubrication of the tensioner pulley periodically can prevent this corrosion build-up.

Dead Battery

    Another symptom of a VW belt tensioner pulley going bad is the battery not charging properly. A failing tensioner pulley does not provide enough tension on the serpentine belt, preventing the alternator from recharging the battery. The loose serpentine belt does not allow the alternator to turn fast enough to charge the battery, and the battery can quit working or fail to provide enough charge to the ignition and electrical system to start the engine. The tensioner pulley needs to be replaced or inspected when the serpentine belt is replaced to ensure that the tensioner pulley keeps operating efficiently.

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How to Fix the Backup Lights on a Nissan Frontier

The reverse light in your Nissan Frontier is in the lower position inside the rear combination light assembly. When the reverse light burns out, you should replace the bulb quickly for your own safety on the road. Buy a 921 bulb from an auto parts retailer or Nissan dealership and change the bulb at home to be back on the road in minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Lower the tailgate of your Frontier. Locate the two mounting screws on the inside edge of the taillight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

    2

    Slide the taillight assembly out and away from the bed of the truck. Grasp the lower bulb and pull it straight out of the assembly.

    3

    Push the new bulb into place. Align the taillight assembly in the mounting area. Insert the two mounting screws and tighten them with the screwdriver.

    4

    Repeat the process to change the bulb on the other side. Close the tailgate.

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Wednesday, May 21, 2014

How to Change the Exhaust Manifold on a 1995 Lumnia

How to Change the Exhaust Manifold on a 1995 Lumnia

The exhaust manifold, also known as a header, on the Chevy Lumina collects the exhaust gases from the engine cylinders and diverts them through the exhaust pipe. If the manifold develops cracks, you will need to change it or the efficiency of the engine will drop. This is a project that you can do yourself, so there is no need to take the Lumina to an automotive repair shop. You can expect it to take you about three hours to complete the project.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut. Disconnect the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor. Turn the belt tensioner using a wrench and relieve the tension from the serpentine belt. Note the proper routing of the belt if the diagram is missing.

    2

    Remove the serpentine belt from the Lumina engine. Remove the bolts from the alternator using a socket and ratchet and take it off the engine. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Lumina. Lift the front of the car with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the Lumina near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

    3

    Remove the bolts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina and lower the car to the ground. Remove the oil fill tube from the engine block using a wrench. Pull the tube away from the engine. Remove the nuts from the exhaust manifold using a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine.

    4

    Remove the manifold gasket and discard it. Install a new gasket and exhaust manifold. Secure the nuts using a socket and ratchet. Install the oil fill tube and tighten the nut with a wrench. Raise the Lumina with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

    5

    Crawl under the Lumina and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten the bolts with a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina. Lower the car to the ground. Install the alternator and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Install the serpentine belt according to the diagram you made, or the one under the engine hood if present.

    6

    Place tension on the serpentine belt by turning the belt tensioner with a wrench. Connect the electrical connection to the oxygen sensor. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

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How to Replace the Passenger Mirror in a Dodge Ram

How to Replace the Passenger Mirror in a Dodge Ram

The Dodge Ram pickup truck was introduced in 1981 and quickly became the most successful pickup truck in the Dodge lineup. Dodge manufactures the Ram on either a van platform or a truck platform. Both versions utilize the same side view mirrors, so the replacement process is the same.

Instructions

    1

    Press the left side of the passenger mirror into the mirror shell of the Dodge Ram. By pushing the left side of the mirror into the shell, the right side of the mirror is forced out of the shell. This allows you to grasp the mirror with your hand.

    2

    Place your fingers on the backside of the Rams mirror and press your thumb against the front side of the mirror. Pull out on the mirror to separate the mounting brackets from the ball-joint located inside the mirror shell.

    3

    Place the new mirror into the shell and press on the center of the mirror with your fist to push the mounting brackets around the ball-joint.

    4

    Adjust your new mirror to meet your driving needs.

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Saturday, May 17, 2014

How to Change the Audi V6 Timing Belt

Audi AG is a German company that makes cars in a range of styles. A V6 engine is common in late-model Audi cars, such as the A6. This executive car typically features the AHA series engine, a six-cylinder, 2.8-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This engine has a timing belt to synchronize the movements of the crankshaft and camshafts. The timing belt requires regular replacement, unlike a timing chain, which can last the lifetime of the car.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft must also align with their respective timing marks on the crankcase.

    2

    Remove the plug from the left side of the engine block by the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft again if necessary. Connect Tool No. 3242 to the crankshaft and tighten it slightly to hold it in place.

    3

    Disconnect the upper timing belt covers, crankshaft vibration damper and lower timing belt cover in that order. Loosen the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench, and release the sprockets from the ends of the camshafts.

    4

    Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Place a 2 mm spring pin through the holes in the tensioner housing and plunger to hold the plunger in place. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise to release the tensioner.

    5

    Remove the mounting bolts for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench and detach the damper from the crankshaft. Disconnect the serpentine belt from the idler pulley and remove the guard for the crankshaft damper. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

    6

    Align the timing marks for the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys, if necessary. Place the new timing belt onto the pulleys, so that the arrow on the timing belt points in the clockwise direction.

    7

    Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Pull the 2 mm spring pin from the housing of the tensioner plunger. Turn the tensioner roller counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt.

    8

    Connect the damper guard for the crankshaft and attach the serpentine belt to the idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolts for the idler pulley bolts to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Replace the crankshaft damper and tighten its mounting bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Fasten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt covers.

    9

    Remove Tool No. 3242 from the crankshaft pulley. Install the sealing plug into its hole on the lower left side of the engine with a socket wrench. Attach the accessory drive belt and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

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What Is the Benefit of a Transmission Service

What Is the Benefit of a Transmission Service?

Ask any mechanic and youll be assured that having your transmission serviced on a regular basis is a smart move and will extend its life. Service can range from a basic service check to a pressurized flush. Aside from the fact that a flush replaces the old fluid in your transmission with new fluid, this procedure also cleans the filter and system; in addition, it can identify minor transmission issues before they become major problems.

General Benefits

    A general transmission service involves removing the fluid pan, replacing the filter and gasket, and replacing some of the transmission fluid. According to Speed Lube, this routine service extends the life of the transmission. Clean lubricant prevents seals and gaskets from hardening, which can cause metal parts to warp and valves to stick.

Full Transmission Flush Benefits

    A flush replaces all of the vehicles transmission fluid. Pressure is used to push all of the old fluid out so that it can be replaced with new fluid. Flushing also does a good job of cleaning out a transmissions internal parts and its filter.

Discovering Transmission Issues

    Both general service and a flush can reveal transmission problems but a flush will give a more accurate indication of what is going on inside your transmission. This is because the pressurized cleaning method helps expose decaying seals and cracks. It will be less costly to replace an old seal or gasket than to wait for serious damage to occur and then have to replace the complete transmission.

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Friday, May 16, 2014

The Spray in Vs Drop in Bed Liners

Depending on your situation, picking the wrong bed liner can mean the difference between a rusty truck bed and a non-rusty one. The frequency in which you use your truck bed is a deciding factor.

Permanence

    A spray-in bed liner is permanent whereas a drop-in bed liner is not. This is the major difference. A drop-in bed liner allows for more flexibility. A drop-in can be removed at your discretion. Once the spray-in bed liner is applied, it can not be removed.

Benefits vs. Drawbacks

    A spray-in bed liner requires a one time application and is thicker than the drop-in. With a drop-in bed liner, your paint may chafe. The drop-in also allows for moisture to collect between it and your bed, which can lead to rust. The drop-in liner is best for those who want to spend the least amount of money, mainly because they will not keep the truck for very long, or use the bed very often. A spray-in liner will cost you more. However, the spray-in also allows for personalization. If you plan on keeping the truck for a very long time and the color matters to you, then go with the spray-in. The spray-in color can be set to match your truck colors.

Care

    With a spray-in there is not much care that is required by the owner. Once the spray-in is complete, you can continue with your day. For drop-ins, you want to move the liner every so often to check if there is any moisture collecting between the liner and the bed. If there is, wipe the moisture away and make sure the drop-in is dry before placing it back into your truck bed.

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Thursday, May 15, 2014

How to Replace the Fuel Pump in a 97 Lumina Car

The Chevrolet Lumina is a series of coupes, minivans and sedans manufactured from 1990 to 2001. The replacement fuel pump for these vehicles depends on the engine, which may be a six-cylinder 3.4 L engine or a 3.1 L engine. All versions of the 1997 Lumina have sequential fuel injection, meaning that the electric fuel pump on these vehicles uses high pressure to deliver fuel to the fuel injectors. You can access the fuel pump on most 1997 Luminas through a removable access panel in the trunk.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the filler cap for the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail, and connect special tool J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure port. Place the bleed hose for this special tool into a gasoline container. Open the valve on the special tool to bleed the fuel in the fuel system into the gasoline container.

    2

    Drain the fuel tank to 1/4 of its capacity, and remove the jack, spare tire and spare tire cover from the trunk. Take out the trunk liner, and unfasten the retaining nuts for the access panel with a socket wrench. Remove the panel, and disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.

    3

    Clean the fuel sender assembly with a shop rag, and disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender assembly. Remove the retaining snap ring on the fuel sender assembly with a socket wrench, so that the fuel sender assembly springs up. Remove the fuel sender assembly without handling the fuel pipes. Discard the old O-ring and clean the sealing surfaces for the O-ring.

    4

    Place the new O-ring on the fuel tank and install the new fuel sender assembly onto the fuel tank. Avoid folding the fuel strainer and ensure that the fuel strainer does not impede the movement of the float arm for the fuel gauge after the installation is complete.

    5

    Replace the retaining snap ring for the fuel sender assembly, and turn the snap ring clockwise with a socket wrench until it fully seats with the fuel tanks tab slots. Attach the electrical connector and quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender assembly. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery, and fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank.

    6

    Turn the ignition switch for 2 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition back on and check for leaks in the fuel system. Replace the access cover in the trunk and tighten the retaining nuts to 96 inch-pounds. Replace the trunk liner, jack, spare tire and spare tire cover.

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Monday, May 12, 2014

How do I Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1996 Probe SE

The Ford Probe was a two-door coupe that Ford manufactured from 1989 to 1997. The 1996 model is a member of the second generation of Probes that includes the 1993 to 1997 models. Ford Probes may have a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine or a six-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine. All versions of this vehicle have multiport fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure fuel pump. You must remove the fuel tank of a Ford Probe in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

    1

    Start the engine and remove the fuel-pump relay in the engine compartment. Allow the engine to stall and turn off the ignition. Replace the fuel-pump relay.

    2

    Drain the fuel tank and remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and exhaust-pipe insulator. Remove the electrical connectors and fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and disconnect the support straps for the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle with the jack stands.

    3

    Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counterclockwise with a brass drift and hammer. Disconnect the locking ring from the fuel pump and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket.

    4

    Put the new gasket into position on the fuel tank and install the new fuel pump. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump clockwise until the flange on the locking ring reaches the stopper. Connect the fuel lines for the fuel pump.

    5

    Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and add at least 3 gallons of fuel to the fuel tank. Check the fuel system for leaks, and lower the vehicle. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

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Friday, May 9, 2014

How to Replace the Timing Belt on a Lexus 2002 GS 300

The Lexus GS is a mid-size luxury sedan that has been in production since 1993. The 2002 model is a second generation Lexus, which includes the 1997 through 2005 models. The 2002 Lexus GS 300 has a six-cylinder 3.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the rotations of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt should last at least 60,000 miles before requiring replacement.

Instructions

    1

    Remove any components needed to access the upper timing belt cover. Disconnect the eight mounting bolts on the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench and remove the upper cover.

    2

    Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a hex wrench to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with the timing marks on the lower timing cover.

    3

    Disconnect the timing belt tensioner and its dust cover with a socket wrench. Remove the lower timing belt covers and the guide for the timing belt. Rotate the pulley for the right camshaft clockwise slightly to relieve the tension on the timing belt, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

    4

    Replace the lower timing cover and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Turn the right camshaft pulley clockwise to align its timing mark with the corresponding timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. Turn the left camshaft pulley clockwise to align its timing mark.

    5

    Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft pulley. Align its installation mark with the edge of the lower timing belt cover.

    6

    Place the timing belt on the left camshaft pulley and align the left camshaft timing mark on the timing belt with the timing mark on the left camshaft. Align the timing mark on the left camshaft with its corresponding mark on the lower timing belt cover. Repeat this step with the right camshaft.

    7

    Place a plate washer between the engine block and the timing belt tensioner. Press the push rod for the tensioner into its housing to align the hole in the push rod with the hole in the housing. Insert a 0.05 inch Allen wrench into the holes to hold the push rod in place.

    8

    Replace the dust cover for the tensioner, and install the tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolts for the tensioner to 20 ft- lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the Allen wrench from the hole in the push rod housing to apply the correct tension to the timing belt.

    9

    Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full turns and align the timing marks once again. Replace the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Install any components removed in step one to access the timing belt.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2014

How to Check the Hub Assembly on a 2002 Venture

2002 Chevrolet Venture minivans use a sealed hub design for both front wheels. In this design, the wheel hub and bearing are pressed together in a non-serviceable unit. As the vehicle ages, the bearing portion of the hub unit can fail, causing an excessive grinding or humming noise when the vehicle is driven, especially at highway speeds. In addition to bearing failure, the hub flange can become warped causing similar symptoms. A dial indicator must be used to accurately measure the looseness and runout of the wheel hub unit in order to accurately diagnose a faulty assembly.

Instructions

    1

    Lift the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands under each control arm in order to load the ball joint. Check to make sure that the vehicle is securely supported. Loosen the hub cap nuts, if equipped, with a 19 mm metric socket and ratchet. Remove the hub cap.

    2

    Secure a dial indicator to base stand in front of the wheel. Adjust the dial indicator so its plunger is at a 90-degree angle to flat, inside face of the wheel, adjacent to the lug nuts.

    3

    Zero the dial indicator, then grip the top of the tire with both hands. Push and pull on the top of the tire; towards the tire on the other side and then back towards your body.

    4

    Note the reading on the dial indicator while moving the tire back and forth. If the movement exceeds 0.005-inches, then the wheel bearing has excessive play and must be replaced.

    5

    Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the automotive jack and remove the stands. Set the vehicle back on the ground. Break the lug nuts loose using a 19 mm lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it once again with the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

    6

    Reinstall two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Install a C-clamp over of the brake caliper so the fixed end of the clamp is resting against the inside of the caliper and the movable end is resting against the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to squeeze the brake caliper piston back into the caliper. This allows the brake caliper to slide off easily.

    7

    Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle with a ratchet and a metric socket. Pry the brake caliper bracket and caliper away from the rotor as an assembly and tie it to the coil spring with a length of mechanics wire. Dont allow it to hang from the brake hose.

    8

    Remove the lug nuts holding the rotor in place and remove the rotor from the steering knuckle. Clean the hub flange with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. Shift the transmission into neutral.

    9

    Set the dial indicator against the hub flange at a 90-degree angle, and then zero the dial indicator. Rotate the flange clockwise and note the reading on the dial indicator. If the needle movement exceeds .005-inches, then the hub flange has excessive run out and the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

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Sunday, May 4, 2014

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1991 Cougar

The Mercury Cougar is a model of car manufactured by the Lincoln-Mercury division of Ford Motor Company. The 1991 Mercury Cougar is a full-size coupe that belongs to the seventh generation of these vehicles. It may have a six-cylinder 3.8L engine or an eight-cylinder 5.0L engine. The fuel pump in a 1991 Mercury Cougar attaches to the fuel tank, so replacing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank and remove the cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and place its drain hose in a gasoline container. Open the pressure gauge and drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.

    2

    Raise the vehicle and support its rear end with jack stands. Siphon as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible and disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust shields from the fuel tank. Place a floor jack under the fuel tank and place a plank of wood on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the nuts for the retaining strap on the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the fuel lines electrical wiring from the fuel tank. Remove the air deflector from the retaining straps of the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank and remove it from the vehicle.

    3

    Clean the area around the retaining flange for the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump counterclockwise and detach the locking ring. Disconnect the fuel pump and bracket from the fuel tank and discard the seal ring.

    4

    Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump and the groove for the seal ring on the fuel tank. Apply a thin layer of grease to the new seal ring and place the seal ring into the groove on the fuel tank. Connect the new fuel pump and bracket to the fuel tank without damaging the fuel filter. Align the keys on the fuel pump with the holes on the mounting bracket. Install the locking ring to the fuel pump so that the locking tabs on the locking ring are under the ring tabs on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring clockwise until it reaches the limit of its travel.

    5

    Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and lower the vehicle. Put at least 10 gallons of fuel in the fuel tank. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the relief valve and connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on for three seconds at a time until the fuel pressure reaches 35 psi. Remove the pressure gauge and cover the relief valve with the cap. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

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Saturday, May 3, 2014

How to Remove the Dash from a Buick Park Avenue

There is no time like the present for replacing that ugly, faded and probably cracked dashboard in your Buick Park Avenue. The good news is that doing so is a fairly easy job. In fact, the only difficulty will involve removing the parts that are designed to prevent dashboard removal. You will need only a couple of tools to complete the job, and before you know it the interior of your Buick Park Avenue will be good as new.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the edges of the trim adjacent to doors and beneath the steering wheel. The trim is what keeps the dash in place and covers all of the wiring. Wedge the flat-head screwdriver under the trim that runs alongside the windshield by the doors and pop the dash loose. Remove these trim pieces and set them aside. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen any remaining mounting bolts securing the steering wheel trim.

    2

    Loosen the trim along the edges near the doors and under the steering wheel. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry under the edges of the trim running down the side of the windshield near the doors and pop the trim loose. Slide the trim pieces out of the car and set aside. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the five to eight mounting bolts holding the steering wheel trim in place. Pull the trim down and discard it.

    3

    Grab the temperature control knobs with a pliers and give a sharp tug. Use the pliers to pry off the radio knobs as well. If you cant pry the knobs off, turn them counterclockwise, as occasionally the knobs screw into the dash.

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How to Change the Brake Light Bulb on a 2007 TrailBlazer

In 1983, Chevrolet introduced a mid-sized SUV to the market, known as the Blazer. The Blazer gave drivers the usefulness of an SUV, without the bulk of a full-sized SUV. In 2002, the Trailblazer replaced all four-door Blazers and finally, in 2006, the Trailblazer replaced the Blazer altogether. The 2007 Trailblazer came standard with a 4.2-liter, in-line six-cylinder engine that produced 291 horsepower and 277 foot-pounds of torque. The 2007 Trailblazers styling was similar to that of its Blazer predecessor, including the vertical taillight assemblies. Replacing the brake light bulbs in these vertical taillight assemblies is a relatively easy task.

Instructions

    1

    Open the rear hatch and remove the two screws on the inner part of the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

    2

    Pull the taillight assembly rearward to remove it from the Trailblazers body. Unplug the wiring harness from the rear of the taillight assembly, by pressing the locking button and pulling the harness away from the assembly.

    3

    Turn the taillight assembly over and remove the three screws holding the socket plate -- the roughly 2-by-5-inch plastic plate on the rear of the taillight assembly. Pull the socket plate from the taillight assembly; notice the bulbs remain attached to the plate.

    4

    Pull the burnt-out brake bulb from the socket plate with a slight wiggling motion. Grab a new 3157 brake light bulb with a clean, lint-free cloth and press it into the socket. Never touch the glass part of the bulb with your bare hands, as the oils from your hands can cause the bulb to burn out prematurely.

    5

    Set the socket plate back on the rear of the taillight assembly and tighten the three screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

    6

    Plug the wiring harness back into the socket plate and set the taillight assembly back on the rear of the Trailblazer. Tighten the two screws on the inner part of the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

    7

    Close the Trailblazers hatch.

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Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Can You Pull off Spark Plug Wires While the Engine Is Running

Like most ponderings in automotive repair, the question of removing spark plug wires from a running engine isnt necessarily so much one of "could" as it is of "should." Technically, yes, you can yank the plug wires off of a running engine just as easily as you could one that isnt running, but it may not necessarily prove conducive to you or your cars good health.

You Could

    Removing a plug wire from a running engine isnt likely to result in catastrophic engine failure, particularly if you put it back on shortly afterward. All spark plugs misfire from time to time, you just dont notice it because its intermittent, random and usually happens so quickly that the cylinders firing again before the engine has a chance to vibrate. So, intentionally creating a misfire by removing the plug wire for a few seconds or even a few minutes isnt likely to destroy anything on most engines.

Common Effects on the Engine

    Most engines have a rubber ring on the front of the crankshaft called a harmonic balancer; on the outer edge of the balancer is a heavy, metal ring. When the explosions in the engines cylinders push down on the pistons, the forces they exert quickly accelerate the crankshaft. When that accelerations over, the crank tries to slow down, resulting in a constant cycle of acceleration and deceleration that manifests as vibration in the crankshaft. The metal ring on the balancer resists these sudden, but tiny, vibrations and keep the crank from tearing itself in two. Over a long enough period of time, a dead cylinder and the resultant heavy vibration will over-work the balancer, causing it to fail. Once that happens, you could be looking at serious damage to the engine.

Effects on the Converter

    Your cars catalytic converter works something like a blast furnace to convert toxic gases produced by your engine into more inert forms that wont drown polar bears or grow fish with three eyes. The converter takes advantage of unburned fuel -- which is, itself, a pollutant -- coming from your engine and uses it to fuel the furnace in the converter matrix. More fuel means more heat. Killing the spark in one cylinder will drastically increase the amount of fuel pouring into your exhaust, which will, at some point, cause the converter to overheat and fail. The engines control computer will compensate for this to some extent, but you can count on extra fuel going into the exhaust.

Lean-Out

    Depending upon the computers control strategy, disconnecting a plug wire and leaving it that way could seriously fry something. When the oxygen sensor detects excess fuel in the exhaust, your cars computer may assume that this represents a net excess of fuel through all the cylinders. It will respond by decreasing the amount of fuel injected to all of the other cylinders in order to get the air/fuel ratio back in line. The resulting lean condition will increase combustion chamber temperature, causing overheating, detonation in the engine and, eventually, complete meltdown. Most computers do have programming provisions to account for a dead cylinder, and wont react this way; but some dont, and theres no way to be sure unless you know exactly how your fuel injection system thinks.

Safety Issues

    Before pulling the plug wire off of a running engine, bear in mind that your are, in fact, grabbing a live wire with about 40,000 volts worth of electricity coursing through it. Normally, this electricity will pass through the plug wire and race to the spark plug, which acts as a ground. But when you remove that ground, the spark is going to find the next, most convenient ground. If you happen to be touching the body of the car when you pull the wire off, then you become that ground. While electricity normally wouldnt arc through the insulation, even if it is a bit old and damaged, removing the primary ground will make that spark pretty determined to get out whatever way it can. Its not likely to kill you unless you have heart or nervous system problems, since the amperage is very low -- but the sensation is rather, shall we say, "life affirming."

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