Repair And Fix it

Put the motorcycle in first gear. Turn off the engine, lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand and let the engine go cold.

Fully extend the enricher knob. Unhook the enricher cable from the clip under the gas tank near the horn. Wipe the exposed cable, knob and clip with a rag.

Spray cable lubricant on the enricher cable and inside the enricher cable guide tube under the gas tank. Wipe up drips with the rag.

Refasten the enricher cable to the clip near the horn. Pull and push the enricher knob in and out to distribute the lubricant along the full length of the enricher cable.

Remove the shift lever retaining screw on the left side of the bike with an Allen wrench and pull the shift lever off the shifter shaft. Unscrew the shifter peg from the lifter and save.

Remove the two socket head screws that hold the footrest bracket to the frame with an Allen socket and a socket wrench and remove the footrest. Plug the two screw holes with the plugs in the forward control kit.

Pull the retaining ring from the footrest clevis with a pair of pliers. Remove the clevis pin and the footrest from the footrest support. Save the footrest.

Remove the right footrest retaining ring with a pair of pliers. Remove the clevis pin, footrest and the spring washer. Save the footrest.

Remove the brake rod cotter pin from the brake rod clevis with a pair of pliers. Pull the brake rod out of the clevis and unscrew it from the rear master cylinder with your hands.

Unscrew the two right footrest/brake pedal screws with an Allen wrench. Pull the support bracket with attached brake assembly off the motorcycle.

Plug both of these screw holes with plugs from the forward control kit. Unscrew the J-clip from the bottom of the right front down tube with an Allen socket and socket wrench and save the J-clip and the two J-clip mounting screws.

Slide the new brake pedal assembly onto the footrest mount clevis. Insert the clevis into the footrest/brake pedal support bracket.

Align the holes in the clevis and support bracket tighten the locking screw with an Allen socket and a torque wrench to 20 foot pounds of torque. Reinstall the J-clip with two the mounting screws and an Allen socket and socket wrench.

Thread one end of the new, longer, rear brake rod into the rear master cylinder. Slip the other end of the brake rod into the clevis on the brake pedal support bracket and secure the connection with a new cotter pin from the kit.

Insert the male mount of the old foot peg and a new spring washer from the kit into the female mount of the brake pedal assembly. Push the clevis pin from the top down through the hole in female clevis mount. Lock the clevis pin in place with a new retaining ring from the kit.

Mount footrest/shifter pedal support bracket to the frame on the left side of the bike with an Allen socket, socket wrench and the screws included in your kit. Tighten the screws to 50 foot pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

Slide left foot pedal onto the shifter side clevis. Mount the clevis on the footrest/shifter pedal support bracket.

Align the holes in the clevis and the support bracket. Thread the locking screw through the hole and tighten the screw to 20 foot pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench. Push the retaining ring included with the kit onto the end of the clevis.

Screw the far end of the shifter rod to the shifter shaft with the Allen screw included in the kit. Screw the opposite end of the shifter to the shifter arm. Tighten both screws to 150 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

Spin the shifter peg into the new shift lever and tighten by hand. Insert the male end of the left foot peg and a new spring washer in the left female clevis.

Align the holes and push the clevis pin from the top down through the clevis hole. Lock the clevis pin in place with a new retaining ring

Run the engine for three to five minutes until the temperature starts to rise. This will thin the oil in the primary, allowing it to drain more readily. Place the bike on its side stand and put the container under the primary. Loosen and remove the drain plug from the underside of the primary cover, and drain the oil into the container.

Use an Allen wrench to loosen the bolts around the circular Derby cover, which is mounted on the primary cover. The clutchs spring mechanism has to be removed before the rest of primary cover can come off. The mechanism is behind the Derby cover. Remove the uppermost locking nut, which will release the spring underneath. Slide the spring out, which will reveal another locking nut beneath it. Loosen and remove this nut, too. Store both nuts and the spring in a safe place.

Work around the outer edge of the primary cover, loosening and removing all of the Allen bolts on the outer perimeter of the cover. Once youve removed the last one, the primary cover should lift off.

Unfasten the drain tube from the Sportster oil tank. Loosen the hose clamp with a screwdriver.

Remove the drain plug and drain the engine oil into a pan. Unscrew the oil filter on the front of the Sportster with an oil filter wrench.

Drain the oil in the filter into a pan. Discard the filter. Clean the front of the bike with rags.

Disconnect the oil pump and crankcase feed hoses with an open end wrench. Apply gasket and thread sealer to the oil line fittings included with your oil cooler kit.

Replace the old oil pump and crankcase lines with the new lines. Tighten the new fittings to 60 inch pounds with a torque wrench and an open end socket.

Coat the threads of the oil line fitting included in your oil cooler kit with gasket and thread sealer. Attach the fittings to the openings in the oil pump and crankcase. Tighten the fittings to not more than 65 inch pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

Unhook the wiring harness extension and clutch cable from the clips on left front of the bike. Remove the clips.

Replace the clips with chrome oil cooler clamps from your oil cooler kit.

Attach the oil cooler to the chrome clamps with the Allen bolts and nuts that came with your oil cooler. Plug the oil feed and oil return hoses on the oil cooler fittings.

Secure the feed and return hoses with the hose clamps included with your oil cooler. Tighten the hose clamps with a screwdriver.

Point the front of the cooler forward. Tighten the clamp screws to 30 inch pounds with a torque wrench and an Allen socket.

Reattach the wiring harness extension and clutch cable to the oil cooler clamps. Tighten all hose fittings 22 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

Wipe clean oil on the rubber gasket of a new oil filter. Spin the filter onto the filter stud and hand tighten.

Add three quarts of oil to the oil tank. Run the motorcycle in neutral for five minutes.

Check for oil leaks while the engine is running. Ensure the oil cooler gets warm. If the oil cooler stays cold a hose or fitting must be blocked.

Turn off the motorcycle and add a fourth quart of oil to the oil tank. Turn the engine over and read the dipstick.

Add oil if the dipstick reads below full. Retighten all fittings when the engine is cold.