Repair And Fix it

The 2003 Volkswagen Passat, including the GL, GLS, GLX and W8 4motion, features several standard and optional convenience options. All models include a liquid crystal display clock on the instrument cluster below the tachometer. Changing the time is an easy task that does not require any special tools or automotive knowledge.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN or ACC position.

2

Examine the instrument panel and locate the digital clock display.

3

Take note of the correct time, using a watch or cell phone.

4

Turn and hold the small plastic knob below the tachometer, using a counterclockwise motion to incrementally increase the hours. Release the knob when the correct hour is displayed.

5

Turn and hold the knob clockwise to adjust the minutes. Release the button when finished.

6

Turn the ignition to the OFF position to complete the process.

The Dodge Ram pickup truck was introduced in 1981 and quickly became the most successful pickup truck in the Dodge lineup. Dodge manufactures the Ram on either a van platform or a truck platform. Both versions utilize the same side view mirrors, so the replacement process is the same.

Instructions

1

Press the left side of the passenger mirror into the mirror shell of the Dodge Ram. By pushing the left side of the mirror into the shell, the right side of the mirror is forced out of the shell. This allows you to grasp the mirror with your hand.

2

Place your fingers on the backside of the Rams mirror and press your thumb against the front side of the mirror. Pull out on the mirror to separate the mounting brackets from the ball-joint located inside the mirror shell.

3

Place the new mirror into the shell and press on the center of the mirror with your fist to push the mounting brackets around the ball-joint.

4

Adjust your new mirror to meet your driving needs.

Depending on your situation, picking the wrong bed liner can mean the difference between a rusty truck bed and a non-rusty one. The frequency in which you use your truck bed is a deciding factor.

Permanence

A spray-in bed liner is permanent whereas a drop-in bed liner is not. This is the major difference. A drop-in bed liner allows for more flexibility. A drop-in can be removed at your discretion. Once the spray-in bed liner is applied, it can not be removed.

Benefits vs. Drawbacks

A spray-in bed liner requires a one time application and is thicker than the drop-in. With a drop-in bed liner, your paint may chafe. The drop-in also allows for moisture to collect between it and your bed, which can lead to rust. The drop-in liner is best for those who want to spend the least amount of money, mainly because they will not keep the truck for very long, or use the bed very often. A spray-in liner will cost you more. However, the spray-in also allows for personalization. If you plan on keeping the truck for a very long time and the color matters to you, then go with the spray-in. The spray-in color can be set to match your truck colors.

Care

With a spray-in there is not much care that is required by the owner. Once the spray-in is complete, you can continue with your day. For drop-ins, you want to move the liner every so often to check if there is any moisture collecting between the liner and the bed. If there is, wipe the moisture away and make sure the drop-in is dry before placing it back into your truck bed.

The Chevrolet Lumina is a series of coupes, minivans and sedans manufactured from 1990 to 2001. The replacement fuel pump for these vehicles depends on the engine, which may be a six-cylinder 3.4 L engine or a 3.1 L engine. All versions of the 1997 Lumina have sequential fuel injection, meaning that the electric fuel pump on these vehicles uses high pressure to deliver fuel to the fuel injectors. You can access the fuel pump on most 1997 Luminas through a removable access panel in the trunk.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the filler cap for the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail, and connect special tool J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure port. Place the bleed hose for this special tool into a gasoline container. Open the valve on the special tool to bleed the fuel in the fuel system into the gasoline container.

2

Drain the fuel tank to 1/4 of its capacity, and remove the jack, spare tire and spare tire cover from the trunk. Take out the trunk liner, and unfasten the retaining nuts for the access panel with a socket wrench. Remove the panel, and disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.

3

Clean the fuel sender assembly with a shop rag, and disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender assembly. Remove the retaining snap ring on the fuel sender assembly with a socket wrench, so that the fuel sender assembly springs up. Remove the fuel sender assembly without handling the fuel pipes. Discard the old O-ring and clean the sealing surfaces for the O-ring.

4

Place the new O-ring on the fuel tank and install the new fuel sender assembly onto the fuel tank. Avoid folding the fuel strainer and ensure that the fuel strainer does not impede the movement of the float arm for the fuel gauge after the installation is complete.

5

Replace the retaining snap ring for the fuel sender assembly, and turn the snap ring clockwise with a socket wrench until it fully seats with the fuel tanks tab slots. Attach the electrical connector and quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender assembly. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery, and fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank.

6

Turn the ignition switch for 2 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition back on and check for leaks in the fuel system. Replace the access cover in the trunk and tighten the retaining nuts to 96 inch-pounds. Replace the trunk liner, jack, spare tire and spare tire cover.

The exhaust gas recirculation valve, or EGR valve, is part of the Mercury Sables emissions control systems. EGR valves, which were introduced in the 1970s, are now included on all automobiles in the United States.

Purpose

The EGR valve, usually located on the intake manifold, reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) that form in internal combustion engines when temperatures reach 2,500 degrees Fahrenheit or more. Nitrogen and oxygen combine to form NOx, a component of smog.

Function

As its name implies, the EGR valve recirculates exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber. Because the exhaust gases cannot be burned again, the result is cooler temperatures in the combustion chambers---several hundred degrees cooler. This reduces the production of NOx.

Performance

The creation of the EGR valve has enabled auto engineers to design more aggressive timing for engines, increasing efficiency and, as a result, improving fuel economy. A malfunctioning EGR valve, however, leads to engine ping and knocking.

General Motors has manufactured a series of diesel engines under the Duramax brand since 2001. The primary application for these eight-cylinder, 6.6-liter engines is in heavy trucks requiring low-end torque, like full-size Chevrolet pickups and vans. A Duramax diesel engine uses fuel injectors to send fuel to the cylinders under high pressure. The replacement of the fuel injectors is a relatively simple process, but it also requires the removal of various components to access the injectors.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and drain the coolant from the radiator into a suitable container. Detach the electrical connector for the air cooler from the left side of the turbocharger. Unplug the barometric sensors electrical connector.

2

Disconnect the clip for the wiring harness on the engine, and remove the wiring harness bracket with a socket wrench. Unplug the electrical connector for the glow plug. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose from the left side of the crankcase.

3

Use a socket wrench to disconnect the air cleaner outlet duct from the right side of the engine. Loosen the clamps on the hose to the air intake on the right side of the engine and remove the hose. Disconnect the fuel filter and fuel filter bracket from the right side of the engine. Disconnect the fuel injector control module.

4

Blow compressed air on the fuel lines for the fuel injector. Clean the fuel lines with a shop rag.

5

Detach the fuel send and return lines from the fuel injectors. Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel injector. Disconnect the bolts on the fuel injector bracket, and install injector removal tool J-46594 into one of the bolt holes. Attach a flare nut wrench to the other end of the injector removal tool and pull the flare nut wrench to unseat the fuel injector.

6

Lift the fuel injector from its bore. Discard the O-rings and copper washer for the fuel injector.

7

Mount a new copper washer and O-rings to the new fuel injector. Install the fuel injector, and tighten the bolts on the fuel injector bracket to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector and fuel lines to the fuel injectors. Torque the mounting bolts for the fuel lines to 30 foot-pounds.

8

Complete the installation of the fuel injectors by performing steps 1 through 3 in reverse order. Refill the coolant in the radiator. Start the engine and check for any fluid leaks.

The Dodge Neon uses the common 9007 headlight bulb. Eventually, after normal wear and over time, the 9007 headlight bulb will burn out. Replacing burnt out headlight bulbs on any vehicle is very important and may seem like a daunting task to those unfamiliar with auto repair. Replacing the bulb on the Dodge Neon is easy.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Dodge Neon and open the hood of the vehicle. Put on the clean gloves.

2

Locate the three upper fascia screws located right above the headlight. Use the screwdriver to remove all three of the screws.

3

Remove the headlight assembly unit from the vehicle by pulling it away from the Dodge Neon.

4

Disconnect the electrical connector by unplugging it from the back of the headlight assembly unit.

5

Remove the retaining ring by twisting it counterclockwise. This will allow access to the bulb. Pull out the old bulb and push the replacement bulb into the headlight assembly.

6

Reattach the retaining ring and reconnect the electrical connector by plugging it into the back of the headlight unit. Place the headlight assembly unit back into the vehicle and reattach the three screws to lock it into place. Close the hood.

Your Acura generates and stores fault codes whenever there is a problem with a solenoid, valve or sensor. This will show up on your instrument panel as "Service Engine" or other warning light. Once you have the codes checked and the vehicle serviced by a qualified mechanic, you need to clear the codes. Usually the mechanic can and will do this, but not always. Not only is it annoying to have the light remain on your instrument panel, it is also bad for the vehicles computer, which may not able to keep track of when your next servicing is due. You dont need any special tools to clear the service engine light on your Acura. Its a relatively easy fix.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn the engine to the "off" position on your Acura.

2

Find the reset button on the odometer located on the instrument panel. Press and hold this button while simultaneously turning the key in the ignition to the on or "II" position.

3

Hold the button for about 10 to 15 seconds, then release it. The "service engine soon" light will go out.

4

Turn off the vehicle, then turn the engine on. Verify that the "service engine soon" light is still off.

Some 1992 Toyota Celica models are equipped with a theft deterrent radio. This radio locks the control panel whenever battery power is lost due to a repair or low charge. When the radio is locked, it will not operate until the proper security code is entered. The security code is three digits, and is listed in the back section of the owners manual, on a special radio security card. If youve lost your radio code, youll need to contact Toyota to obtain another code, or return your Celica to a Toyota service department so they can unlock your radio.

Instructions

1

Press the 1 button while simultaneously pressing the TUNE SEEK button; --- should appear on the display. This means that the radio is ready to receive the code.

2

Press 1 repeatedly to cycle through the number choices until the first digit of your code appears on the radio screen.

3

Press 2 repeatedly to cycle through the number choices in the second number position until your number shows on the screen.

4

Press 3 multiple times until the third digit of your radio code appears on the screen.

5

Depress and hold the SCAN button until SEC shows on the radio display; once SEC shows on the screen, the radio should be unlocked.

Cutting a gas tank in half isnt an overly difficult task if youre equipped with the right tools. Although you could use a grinder or oxyacetylene torch to accomplish the job, the safest and perhaps most efficient tool to use is a reciprocating saw. In order to cut the tank effectively, the saw will need to be fixed with a metal-cutting blade. A metal-cutting blade will utilize multiple teeth, usually numbering somewhere between 14 and 20 per inch. This is much more than a wood-cutting blade, which has only 6 to 8 teeth per inch.

Instructions

1

Rinse the gas tank out several times with water and let it drain. If you have time, you should also allow the tank to air out for roughly 3 to 5 days. Obviously, the gas should be removed from the vehicle.

2

Use marking chalk to draw a line around the middle of the gas tank. By following this line, youll be better equipped to make a clean, straight cut around the entire gas tank.

3

Attach a bit to your drill specifically designed for drilling in metal. Put on your safety glasses and drill a hole at some point along the line you drew with the marking chalk. The hole you drill will make it easier to insert the blade and start the cut with your reciprocating saw.

4

Grip the reciprocating saw firmly and pull the trigger to start the saw. Start the blade into the hole you drilled and begin sawing the gas tank in half. Follow your line and work slowly. If you rush or push too hard, you may dull or damage the saw blade. Continue cutting until youve successfully separated the gas tank into halves.

If the check engine light on the dash of your Jeep is on, stop into an auto parts store and ask them to scan your Jeep for codes. Nearly all major auto parts store offer this service for free. Failure of the oxygen sensor is a common problem, but the part can be changed at home, saving you a major repair bill. The oxygen sensors are in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the catalytic converter on the Jeep Wrangler. You will need a special socket to remove the oxygen sensor, available at most auto parts stores and tool supply stores.

Instructions

1

Lift the Jeep with a jack and support it on all four corners with a set of jack stands. The oxygen or O2 sensors are in the exhaust under the middle of the Jeep, so you will have to lift the entire Jeep to access them effectively.

2

Locate the two O2 sensors in the exhaust system. The first one is near the center of the transmission, and the second is between the resonator and the catalytic converter. Unplug the wiring harness connectors from both sensors by lifting the locking tab with a small flat screwdriver and pulling them from the harness.

3

Remove the O2 sensors, one at a time, using a oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet. Turn the sensor counter-clockwise to remove it from the exhaust. Discard the old sensor.

4

Install the two new sensors into the threaded sections of the exhaust where you removed the old ones from. The two sensors used by Jeep are identical, so either one is fine in each hole.

5

Tighten the sensors with an oxygen sensor socket and a torque wrench to 22 foot-pounds. Do not use thread locker, anti-seize or any other compound on the threads of the sensor.

6

Insert the wiring harness connectors on both sensors into the plugs on the wiring harness. Verify that they lock into the connector by checking the tab to see that it is engaged.

7

Remove the jack stands and lower the Jeep to the ground. Test run the engine and check your CEL or check engine light to ensure it has gone off.

In the last few years Harley riders, especially riders of Dyna Wide Glides, have reported improperly installed and defective rubber front motor mounts. The part has never been recalled and Harley-Davidson has never admitted the parts might be defective or improperly installed. Besides inspection of the mounts, and replacement if necessary, Harley also recommends aligning the motorcycle by loosening, but not removing, all motor mount bolts and running the engine for five seconds, during which time the mounts align themselves to the frame. The bolts are then re-tightened to manufacturer specifications. While Harley recommends the realignment, the procedure is rarely done because the mounts usually need to be replaced anyway.

Instructions

  1Make the motorcycle upright and level by slightly elevating the Wide Glide on a motorcycle jack. Do not elevate the bike. The front tire should remain within an inch of the ground.
  2 Unfasten the two bolts that secure the voltage regulator to the frame near the bottom of the down tubes with a socket wrench. Do not disconnect the voltage regulator from the wiring harness.
  3 Remove four of the six front engine mount bolts. Remove the stabilizer link bolt and three bottom lower plate bolts. Use the Service Manual for your motorcycle to identify these bolts if you are unsure.
  4 Position a wood block on top of a scissors jack. Slide the jack and block of wood under your engine. Raise the jack approximately a half-inch.
 
5 Break loose the two upper plate bolts with a 9/16-inch deep well socket and a breaker bar. Remove the bolts with the same socket and a ratchet.
 
6 Remove the motor mount plate. Remove the motor mount. Wipe all exposed surfaces around the mount clean with rags and solvent.
 
7 Replace the motor mount plate and position the new motor mount. Replace and finger tighten all six mounting bolts.
 
8 Lower the scissors jack. Remove the scissors jack and wood block.
 
9 Tighten the two upper plate bolts to 33 to 38 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the stabilizer link bolt to 33 to 38 foot-pounds. Tighten the lower plate bolts last, to 33 to 38 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.
 
10 Re-bolt the voltage regulator to the frame with a socket wrench.
 
11 Support the motorcycle while you lower the motorcycle jack. Allow the bike to rest on the jiffy stand.

Hydraulic fluid is the lifeblood of a forklift. Forklifts rely on hydraulics for their lifting abilities as well as steering. It is important to maintain the proper level of hydraulic fluid in a forklifts reservoir. An inadequate level of hydraulic fluid will decrease a forklifts lifting and steering abilities. An overabundance of fluid, on the other hand, can lead to other problems, such as leaks and spills. Many manufacturers recommend replacing a forklifts hydraulic oil every 1,000 hours of use.

Instructions

1

Consult the forklift operators manual, if available. It will tell you the specific grade of hydraulic fluid to use as well as what the particular fill level of the hydraulic tank is. If the manufacturers recommendation cannot be found, use a general purpose fluid like ISO 32 hydraulic oil.

2

Park the forklift on level ground. Lower the forks until they touch the ground, set the parking brake, and turn the ignition off.

3

Locate the hydraulic reservoir. It will have a vented fill cap on its top side and a sight glass or fill gauge on its side to indicate the fluid level.

4

Remove the vented fill cap. Insert the oil delivery pumps discharge nozzle into the fill tube and begin pumping fluid into the reservoir.

5

Observe the tanks fluid level by via the sight glass or fill gauge. Once the fluid level reaches the max fill line, stop pumping. Do not overfill the tank.

6

Slowly withdraw the delivery pumps fill nozzle. Use a shop towel to contain or clean up any hydraulic fluid that may have spilled onto the outside of the tank.

7

Finish filling the forklifts hydraulic tank by replacing the vented fill cap.

The oil pan or oil level sensor in your Mazda MPV monitors the amount of oil in the oil pan. The sensor has an electrical connection that enables it to communicate with the PCM (power control module). When the oil level reaches or falls beneath the sensor, it illuminates the oil light in your MPVs dash cluster. Damage to the oil level sensor most often results from electrical failure. You can located and replace the oil pan sensor on your 1990 Mazda MPV right at home. The job should take you approximately 30 minutes.

Instructions

1

Place a wheel block firmly into position behind both of your MPVs rear tires.

2

Apply the emergency brake and raise the front end of your vehicle with a hydraulic jack. The bottom of both of the front tires should visibly measure no more than 8 inches from the ground.

3

Set a jack stand behind the front tires underneath your MPVs frame rail. Lift the support arms on both jack stands to 85 percent of the height of the hydraulic jack.

4

Lower the hydraulic jack slowly while you monitor both of the jack stands. When you see that your MPV securely rests on the support arms of the jack stands, stop lowering the hydraulic jack. Do not completely remove or lower the hydraulic jack. Leave it in its position for extra support.

5

Slide under your Mazda MPV and locate its oil pan. The oil pan sits at the lower, rear of the engine. It looks like a black, metal rectangle and has 20 small bolts around its upper lip. The oil pan also has a large bolt at the bottom of it used to drain the oil.

6

Locate the oil pan sensor on the lower side of your oil pan. You will not be able to see the sensors length but you should see the wiring harness connected to the top of it. On some models of the 1990 Mazda MPV, the sensor mounts just above the oil draining bolt. On other models, the sensor mounts on the opposite side of the oil pan across from the oil draining bolt.

The most recent use of a 4.9-liter engine in Ford vehicle is in F-150 pickup trucks made from 1987 to 1996. This is a six cylinder gasoline engine, which requires the fuel injectors to deliver fuel to the engine under high pressure. The installation of a new fuel injector for a 4.9-liter Ford engine requires you to remove the entire fuel rail assembly. This procedure is generally the same for all Ford trucks with a 4.9-liter engine made since 1987.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to reduce the possibility of a spark while replacing the fuel injectors. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line and connect MFI Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-A to the valve. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel lines and replace the valve cap.

2

Disconnect the upper intake manifold assembly from the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel rail from the engine. Unplug the electrical connector for each fuel injector.

3

Rock the fuel injector back and forth as you pull up to remove the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Remove and discard any damaged O-rings from the fuel injector.

4

Coat the new O-rings with clean engine oil and mount them to the new fuel injector. Install the new fuel injector into the fuel rail by gently rocking it back and forth.

5

Attach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors, and install the fuel rail with the socket wrench. Replace the upper intake manifold and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The 1996 BMW 318 TI engine comes equipped with two different accessory belts that operate all of the engine accessories. The front belt is a single V-belt that operates the air conditioner compressor, and the back belt is a single serpentine belt that operates the power steering pump, cooling fan and the alternator. Both belts are tensioned inside of each accessory pulley by two separate belt tensioners. Excessive heat and wear can cause the belts to fray. Once the fraying becomes visible, replace the belt soon before it breaks.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and locate the belt tensioner for the air conditioner belt. The tensioner is mounted to the front of the engine block between the crankshaft and the a/c compressor. Use the tensioner pulley bolt to loosen the tension from the belt.

2

Position a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar in a counter-clockwise motion to loosen the tension from the belt. Pull the belt out from around the tensioner pulley, the a/c pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Remove the belt from the engine well.

3

Locate the serpentine belt tensioner mounted to the front of the engine block on the lower left hand side of the alternator. Use the tensioner pulley bolt to loosen the tension from the belt.

4

Position a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar in a counter-clockwise motion to loosen the tension from the belt. Pull the belt off the tensioner pulley and the remaining accessory pulleys. Remove the belt from the engine compartment.

5

Route the new serpentine belt around the accessories exactly as described by the belt routing diagram that is stamped to the top of the fan shroud. Once the belt is inside the accessory pulleys, turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket again and slide the belt around the tensioner pulley. Release the breaker bar and remove it from the tensioner.

6

Route the new air conditioner belt around the a/c compressor pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket again. Slide the belt around the tensioner pulley and release the breaker bar. Remove the breaker bar from the engine compartment. Look over both belts to ensure they are seated inside of each accessory pulley.

7

Crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds to completely seat the new belts inside the accessory pulleys. Turn the engine off.

The headlight switch assembly on the dash of your 2008 Dodge Dakota does more then just turn the lights on and off; do not put off replacing a faulty switch. The switch controls the interior lights, the dash lights, parking or running lights and the headlights. A faulty switch will often cause other functions to fail; if the switch fails altogether, youll find yourself with no headlights at all and unable to drive your truck. Look for replacement switches at any auto parts retailer or your local Dodge dealer.

Instructions

1

Locate the retaining screws on the instrument panel of your Dakota, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Pop the bezel off the instrument panel using a flat-blade screwdriver. Set the bezel aside for safekeeping.

2

Locate the three retaining bolts on the face of the headlight switch assembly---two on the outboard edge and one on the inboard side---then remove them using a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside for reuse during installation.

3

Slide the headlight switch assembly forward until you can reach the electrical connector on the rear of the assembly. Press the locking tab in on the connector, and separate the connector from the rear of the headlight switch. Pull the headlight switch out of the dash, and discard it.

4

Slide the new headlight switch assembly into the dash far enough to allow the electrical connector to reach it. Push the connector onto the back of the switch, ensuring that the locking tab engages completely.

5

Push the switch in place, and install the three retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet until they are just snug enough to hold the switch securely but wont crack its plastic casing.

6

Position the instrument panel bezel in place, snapping it into the retaining clips. Install the retaining screws and tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver only until they are just snug enough not hold the bezel in place without damaging it.

7

Turn on the headlight switch, and cycle the headlights through the high- and low-beam positions several times to ensure a successful repair.

The clutch is one of the most important parts of any vehicle, letting you shift gears and adjust your speed. When your Nissan Frontiers clutch is working properly, you get the most control out your truck especially while you are driving out in the open roads. All clutches, however, will need replacement at one point or the other. Once your Nissan starts to screech and grind each time you use the clutch, you need to either replace a defective part in your clutch system, or replace the entire clutch system with a clutch kit.

Instructions

1

Lift the truck. Use a hydraulic jack to life the truck. If your truck has a front wheel drive system, lift the front wheels. If your truck has a rear wheel drive system, lift the rear wheels. Support the weight of the truck with a jack stand.

2

Remove the axle. Unscrew the bolts that keep the driveshaft to the differential with a wrench. Once the bolts are removed, you can slip the driveshaft from the universal joint in the differential. Make sure that the wire caps on the universal joint and the driveshaft do not hit the ground, because impact can damage the sensitive pieces. Place a pan underneath the transmission tail housing to protect your floor from dripping transmission fluid.

3

Unwire the harnesses. Unscrew the housing on the transmission and remove any wires that keep the transmission harnessed. Mark all of the wires so that you know where to connect them after you are done fixing the clutch. Also remove the starter which is connected by a wire to the transmission.

4

Support the engine. Place a jack stand under the engine, so that you will be able to take the transmission mount out of the cross member. Once the cross member is free, you can remove the bolts around the transmission bell housing. This will allow you to pull the transmission from the rest of the engine. Do this until the pressure plate is revealed from under the input shifts.

5

Remove the transmission. Unscrew the bolts that keep the flywheel attached to the pressure plate and then remove the transmission fully. Make sure that the flywheel is not damaged, otherwise it needs to be replaced. Also be sure to wipe the crankshaft flange clean.

6

Replace the clutch. Attach the new pressure plate onto the flywheel. Once attached, you can insert the clutch disc and then tighten using the appropriate amount of torque indicated in the packaging of the clutch replacement kit that you bought. Add a bit of grease on the bearings so that you can add the release bearing to the clutch disc.

7

Put parts back in place. Insert the transmission back into place, until the shaft from the transmission enters the hole in the clutch disc. Install the bell housing again using bolts, and then gently lower the truck back onto the ground.

The 1984 GMC S-15 truck with the six-cylinder, 2.8-liter engine is carbureted instead of fuel-injected. As such, the fuel pump on this truck is mounted on the side of the engine block and driven by a cam on the camshaft. If the fuel pump isnt working properly, you can experience poor performance, stalling, and even backfiring. You can change the fuel pump n the 1984 S-15 in about an hour to two hours in your front yard.

Instructions

1

Slide the jack under the front frame cross member, and lift the truck until there is enough room for you to comfortably slide under.

2

Place the jack stands under the frame behind both front wheels, and caully lower the truck onto them. Remove the jack.

3

Slide under the truck, and locate the pump on the lower left front side of the engine. Tag the fuel lines if they are both threaded fittings so you know which line goes where.

4

Remove the fuel lines from the pump. Most fuel pumps will have two threaded fittings; remove these using the flare nut wrenches and turning the fittings counterclockwise. If either of the connections has a rubber hose clamped to it, squeeze the clamp with the pliers, and slide it back on the hose a few inches. Grasp the fuel line, and twist and pull it off the pump nipple.

5

Remove the bolts securing the fuel pump to the block by turning them counterclockwise with the ratchet and socket. Remove the fuel pump by pulling it away from the engine.

6

Clean the block side mating surface of all remnants of the old gasket using the gasket scraper.

7

Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to both the block and pump mating surfaces. Apply the gasket to block mating surface.

8

Hold the new fuel pump in place, and insert the bolts in the bolt holes, and turn them clockwise by hand. Tighten these bolts to 15 foot-pounds with the ratchet and socket.

9

Reattach the fuel lines to the pump. For threaded fittings, thread the fittings into the new pump by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to 15 foot-pounds using the flare nut wrench. If so equipped, slip the rubber fuel line over the nipple. Squeeze the clamp, and slide it over the nipple.

10

Slide the jack back under the front cross member, and lift the truck off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands, and lower the truck. Start the truck, and verify there are no leaks.

Ford introduced the Taurus in 1985. During its production run, the number of Taurus vehicles sold totaled over seven million. Ford ceased production of the Taurus in 1996. Though frustrating for drivers, an overheating Taurus does not have to signal disaster. A few maintenance interventions and some troubleshooting can keep the Taurus on the road and running normally.

Causes

Several factors can cause or contribute to a Taurus overheating. A temperature gauge climbing into the red zone is a sign of overheating. A Taurus can overheat due to leaking hoses, coolant leaks to cylinders or oil, improper coolant levels, heat transfer problems or cooling system circulation issues. A failing water pump does not circulate water and coolant through the cooling system, interfering with proper temperature maintenance and cooling.

Prevention/Solution

Observation is crucial and helps immensely in troubleshooting overheating causes. Look for signs of leakage that could be contributing to overheating in the Taurus. Yellow buildup near the oil cap can indicate a coolant leak going to the oil compartment. White smoky exhaust fumes indicates coolant is likely leaking to the engine cylinders. Locating and resolving leaks can fix overheating woes and prevent costlier repairs later. Make sure the radiator cap is securely capped so that the cooling system pressure is maintained. Replace components such as failing water pumps, thermostats or electrical fans. Maintain proper coolant levels, using a hydrometer to measure antifreeze concentration. The suggested mixture is a 50/50 ratio of water to ethylene glycol.

Warning

Never open a hot radiator or attempt to work on a hot heating system. Allow the Taurus to cool before inspection. The cooling system is pressurized and can release dangerous pressure and scalding-hot fluids. Utilize care in coolant disposal and clean spills promptly, as pets could drink antifreeze left unattended.