Saturday, March 8, 2014
How to Install a Fuel Pump in a 1984 GMC S 15
The 1984 GMC S-15 truck with the six-cylinder, 2.8-liter engine is carbureted instead of fuel-injected. As such, the fuel pump on this truck is mounted on the side of the engine block and driven by a cam on the camshaft. If the fuel pump isnt working properly, you can experience poor performance, stalling, and even backfiring. You can change the fuel pump n the 1984 S-15 in about an hour to two hours in your front yard.
Instructions
- 1
Slide the jack under the front frame cross member, and lift the truck until there is enough room for you to comfortably slide under.
2Place the jack stands under the frame behind both front wheels, and caully lower the truck onto them. Remove the jack.
3Slide under the truck, and locate the pump on the lower left front side of the engine. Tag the fuel lines if they are both threaded fittings so you know which line goes where.
4Remove the fuel lines from the pump. Most fuel pumps will have two threaded fittings; remove these using the flare nut wrenches and turning the fittings counterclockwise. If either of the connections has a rubber hose clamped to it, squeeze the clamp with the pliers, and slide it back on the hose a few inches. Grasp the fuel line, and twist and pull it off the pump nipple.
5Remove the bolts securing the fuel pump to the block by turning them counterclockwise with the ratchet and socket. Remove the fuel pump by pulling it away from the engine.
6Clean the block side mating surface of all remnants of the old gasket using the gasket scraper.
7Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to both the block and pump mating surfaces. Apply the gasket to block mating surface.
8Hold the new fuel pump in place, and insert the bolts in the bolt holes, and turn them clockwise by hand. Tighten these bolts to 15 foot-pounds with the ratchet and socket.
9Reattach the fuel lines to the pump. For threaded fittings, thread the fittings into the new pump by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to 15 foot-pounds using the flare nut wrench. If so equipped, slip the rubber fuel line over the nipple. Squeeze the clamp, and slide it over the nipple.
10Slide the jack back under the front cross member, and lift the truck off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands, and lower the truck. Start the truck, and verify there are no leaks.
Saturday, December 7, 2013
How to Locate the Axle Ratios in a 1984 Ford E350
The original Ford E-Series compact van hit the automotive consumer market in 1961. Beginning in 1968, the Ford E-series van underwent radical design changes that included a sturdier truck-like construction, larger cargo area and more passenger seating. Heavy-duty models such as the E-350 and E-450 featured a longer wheelbase and more powerful engine options throughout the years. Finding out your vehicles rear axle type and specific gearing ratio will allow you to make informed decisions when searching for replacement components.
Instructions
- 1
Open the front drivers side door of the vehicle.
2Examine the lower edge of the door and locate the identification label. The identification label contains important information concerning your E-350, such as tire specifications, Vehicle Identification Number and axle type installed.
3Write down the character code listed under "AXLE" (located near the bottom of the label).
4Navigate to the "Ford Differential Axle Codes" webpage, maintained by Drivetrain.com, scroll through the axle code list and find your vehicles axle code in the left column. The numerical value presented in the right column lists the rear axle ratio for your vehicle.
Wednesday, October 23, 2013
How to Replace the Injector on a 1984 300 ZX
The 300ZX is a sports car that Nissan sold in the United States from 1984 to 1996. The 1984 models had 2.0-liter and 3.0-liter engines, and some units also had turbochargers. All versions of the 1984 300ZX have fuel injection, which delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. The fuel injector assembly in a 1984 Nissan 300ZX is accessible from the engine compartment and is located on top of the engine.
Instructions
- 1
Start the engine and remove the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box. Allow the engine to stall and crank the engine to ensure that it will not start. Turn the ignition off once you have removed all of the fuel from the fuel system. Replace the fuse for the fuel pump.
2Detach the electrical connector from the fuel injector, and disconnect the wiring harness from the wiring clamp on the fuel pipe. Remove the hose from the cover on the rocker arm. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator and detach the pipe to the air regulator.
3Place a shop towel under the fuel pipe to catch spilled fuel. Disconnect the fuel feed line and fuel return line from the fuel pipe.
4Remove the bolts for the fuel pipe and the retaining screws for the fuel injector with a socket wrench. Detach the entire fuel injector assembly from the engine, including the fuel injectors, fuel pipe and pressure regulator. Release the clamps for the hose on the fuel pipe and separate the fuel pipe from the fuel injector.
5Inspect the new insulator washers for the fuel injector to ensure they have no abrasions. Install the new insulator washers to the new fuel injector so they form an airtight seal. Install the new fuel injectors by reversing steps two through four. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Monday, September 30, 2013
Why the Battery Goes Dead on My 1984 BMW 318I
When it comes to troubleshooting the dying battery on your 1984 BMW 318I it can be a bit tricky as there may be several reasons its happening. The most common issues involve manual error or electrical faults.
Alternator Belt
When you own an older vehicle you need to make sure youre keeping up with all maintenance, including tightening or replacing your alternator belt. If your belt is loose it will not crank the alternator properly which, in turn, will not generate electricity for you.
Key-off Drain
This model BMW has a computer on board, so having the ignition in off position and having the key removed should produce very little battery drain. If you hook up a voltmeter to the battery it should read between 20 to 50 milliamps. If its higher, then you may have an electrical device draining your battery when the cars off.
Bad Battery
Battery life is limited, so after several years of owning one if its giving you trouble, the issue just may be a bad battery. Take your car to a local mechanic, or even a parts store, and he will typically test for free and let you know if your battery is bad.