Repair And Fix it

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to reduce the possibility of a spark while replacing the fuel injectors. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line and connect MFI Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-A to the valve. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel lines and replace the valve cap.

Disconnect the upper intake manifold assembly from the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel rail from the engine. Unplug the electrical connector for each fuel injector.

Rock the fuel injector back and forth as you pull up to remove the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Remove and discard any damaged O-rings from the fuel injector.

Coat the new O-rings with clean engine oil and mount them to the new fuel injector. Install the new fuel injector into the fuel rail by gently rocking it back and forth.

Attach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors, and install the fuel rail with the socket wrench. Replace the upper intake manifold and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Drive the car at freeway speeds for 50 miles. Many vehicles can be reset just by driving the car. If this does not work, move on to the next steps.

Take out your TPMS scanner. Most of the scanners work in the same fashion. Become familiar with how your TPMS scanner works. Notice that the scanner has a menu button and a selector to select your model car. Select your car and follow the prompts on the screen to reset the TPMS units.

Reset the tires on the car one by one. This will require you to walk around the car to each tire and push the reset button.

Confirm that your old engine is beyond repair, or is going to cost so much to fix that you may as well replace it. Some engine problems can be repaired, and you should do so if it is feasible.

Research your engine options. Your vehicles make and model will determine the engine you need, but you can opt to buy a refurbished engine, an engine from a salvage yard or a brand new factory direct engine. Dont attempt to buy an engine from a junk yard unless you are a qualified mechanic. Rebuilt engines are often as good as new, but a brand new engine from your cars manufacturer is ideal. A new engine is the most expensive option, however.

Buy the engine. Do not try replacing the engine yourself unless you are mechanically inclined and experienced. Otherwise, you risk costing yourself even more money when you have to take your car to a mechanic to complete the project.

Have the car and engine delivered to a trusted mechanic. You can purchase the engine yourself and supply it to your mechanic, who will then perform the replacement for you. Make sure there is oil in the new engine before starting it for the first time or you can damage the new engine.

Apply cam lube to the external surfaces of the lifter as well as the lobes of the camshaft for non-roller cams. Fill the push rod seat of the valve lifter with motor oil. Use a high quality non-synthetic oil to coat all the lifter surfaces when a roller cam is used.

Install the rocker arms and set the initial valve lash, following the procedures in the manufacturers service manual.

Rest a scribe on the valve cover gasket surface of the cylinder head. Scribe a mark on the push rod that is seated in the new valve lifter.

Remove the rocker assembly from the cylinder head, following instructions in the engine manufacturers shop manual, but do not remove the push rod.

Scribe another mark below the first mark on the pushrod after removing the rocker assembly, using the valve cover gasket surface of the cylinder head as a reference point. The difference between the first and second marks is the pre-load distance.

Adjust the pre-load distance, if necessary, by using either longer or shorter pushrods to ensure that the pre-load distance is within the lifter manufacturers specifications. Repeat the procedure for all new lifters.

Reinstall the rocker arms and reset the initial valve lash after the preload test, completing the preparation of the new valve lifter.

Prime the engines oil pump, following the instructions in the engine manufacturers shop manual. Fill the oil filter with fresh non-synthetic motor oil to ensure proper lubrication on start-up.

Complete the reassembly of the engine, following the procedures in the manufacturers shop manual. Fill the engine with 30-weight engine oil, and the radiator with engine coolant.

Fill the carburetor float bowl with gasoline, or prime the injector pump to facilitate fast engine start-up, ensuring that engine oil reaches the new valve lifters as rapidly as possible.

Start the engine and reset the valve lash, if necessary, and the ignition timing following the instructions in the manufacturers shop manual. Perform initial break-in procedures for new lifters following the lifter manufacturers instructions.

Drain the engine oil after the engine cools off. Remove and replace the oil filter, following the instructions in the engine manufacturers shop manual. Replace the engine oil using the correct weight of non-synthetic motor oil, following the recommendations in the engine manufacturers shop manual. The lifter has now been prepared for normal operation.