Repair And Fix it

Harley-Davidson driving lights mount on the front forks of Softails. The driving lights may add slightly to your view of the road at night. They add significantly to the recognition by oncoming drivers that you are there. The pattern formed by a headlight and two driving lights is conspicuous, and driving lightbulbs are often yellow, so even drunks are inclined to slow down when they see you coming. The popular Heritage Softail Classic, styled to look like a mid-60s hog, comes equipped with three lights as standard equipment. If that is the effect you are trying to achieve, numerous aftermarket vendors, including Harley and Kuryakyn, sell driving light kits. These instructions are specific to recent, fuel-injected Softails.

Instructions

Remove Fuel Tank

1

Remove the electrical caddy cover by pulling on it with both hands. Pry the fuel pump fuse out of the electrical caddy with a small, flathead screwdriver.

2

Start the engine in neutral and run the engine until it dies. Run the starter for four more seconds.

3

Disconnect the fuel supply line by pulling up on the chrome sleeve of the fuel tank quick-connect fitting and pulling down on the fuel supply line.

4

Unscrew the bolt that secures the seat tab to the rear fender. Recent Softails use a Phillips screw, which must be removed with a screwdriver. Older Softails use an Allen bolt, which comes off with an Allen wrench.

5

Remove the seat to access the battery compartment. Disconnect the negative battery wire from the negative terminal with an open-end wrench.

6

Remove the instrument panel by loosening and removing the acorn nut on the panel with an Allen wrench and pulling up. Unplug the fuel pump module connector under the instrument panel.

7

Push a 5/16-inch-diameter bolt in one end of a foot long piece of 5/16-inch rubber hose. Tighten a hose clamp around the hose and the bolt with a flathead screwdriver.

8

Cut the hose clamp from one end of the crossover hose with side blade pliers. Very quickly replace the crossover hose on the fuel tank fitting with the open end of the 1-foot hose while directing the flow of gasoline from the free end of the crossover hose into an adequately sized gas can.

9

Clean up spilled gasoline with rags. Carry the rags outside if you are working in a garage.

10

Disconnect the crossover hose and the continuous venting vent line. Remove the front tank mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with an open-end wrench.

11

Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and nut with an open-end wrench. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector under the left side of the fuel tank with your hands.

12

Lift the tank straight up to remove. Set the tank on a well-padded surface in a well-ventilated place.

Install Lights

13

Install the left-hand and right-hand side specific mounting clamps that came with the driving light kit on the right and left fork tubes using the four buttonhead screws that came with the driving light kit. Tighten the screws to between 70 and 80 inch-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

14

Route each lamp wire through the hole in each mounting bracket and secure the lamp to each bracket using a clamp block, lock washer and retainer from the kit. Tighten the retainer to 18 foot-pounds of torque with an open-end socket and a torque wrench.

15

Position the inner nesting rings from the kit on each lightbulb. Connect the black wires to the bulb spade terminals next to the bulbs indexing tabs. Install the gray wires on the remaining spade terminals.

16

Attach the bulbs and the inner nesting rings to the outer trim rings with the Phillips screws included in the kit. Slide the conduit tubes from the kit over both lamp wires.

17

Set the light kit wiring harness relay in the seat pan. Route the long leg of the harness along the frame spine under the seat.

18

Plug the white wire connector into the "B+" connector on the lighting kit wiring harness. Loosen and remove the nut on the ground wire stud in the seat pan with a socket wrench and socket.

19

Slip the black, ground wire ring over the ground wire stud. Replace the ground wire stud nut. Secure the driving light kit wire harness to the adjacent wiring harnesses with the cable straps included in the driving light kit.

20

Route the driving light wiring harness past the steering head. Route the lamp switch leg of the harness along the left side of the handlebar to the clutch control.

21

Unscrew the boot from the small lamp switch in the kit. Install the switch into the switch mounting bracket in the kit and replace the boot on the switch.

22

Remove the lower screw and washer from the clutch control clamp with a Torx driver. Position the tab of the driving light switch bracket over the screw hole and replace the Torx screw and washer. Tighten the screw to 70 inch-pounds of torque with a Torx socket and torque wrench.

23

Loosen the headlight trim ring clamp with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the headlight trim ring.

24

Pull the connector block from the headlight bulb prongs. Remove the rubber boot from the back of the headlight lens.

25

Squeeze the wire retaining clip ends to unhook them from the notches in the headlight assembly. Pivot the wire retaining clip away from the headlight bulb and remove the bulb from the headlight assembly.

26

Route the unconnected wire from the handlebar switch through the grommet into the headlight housing. Splice that wire to the yellow (low-beam) headlight wire using the electrical connector included in the driving light kit.

27

Reinstall the headlight bulb.

28

Slide the heat-shrink tubing included in the kit over the white wire in the driving light wiring harness. Strip the ends of both lamp wires with a wire stripper.

29

Splice the white wire to the lamp wires with the three wire connector included in the kit with a wire crimping tool. Cover the splice with the heat shrink tubing and shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

30

Clip the driving light wires to the lower fork steering bracket using the adhesive-backed clips from the kit.

31

Reinstall the fuel tank. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

32

Reinstall the fuel pump fuse. Replace the electrical caddy cover. Replace the seat.

In the last few years Harley riders, especially riders of Dyna Wide Glides, have reported improperly installed and defective rubber front motor mounts. The part has never been recalled and Harley-Davidson has never admitted the parts might be defective or improperly installed. Besides inspection of the mounts, and replacement if necessary, Harley also recommends aligning the motorcycle by loosening, but not removing, all motor mount bolts and running the engine for five seconds, during which time the mounts align themselves to the frame. The bolts are then re-tightened to manufacturer specifications. While Harley recommends the realignment, the procedure is rarely done because the mounts usually need to be replaced anyway.

Instructions

  1Make the motorcycle upright and level by slightly elevating the Wide Glide on a motorcycle jack. Do not elevate the bike. The front tire should remain within an inch of the ground.
  2 Unfasten the two bolts that secure the voltage regulator to the frame near the bottom of the down tubes with a socket wrench. Do not disconnect the voltage regulator from the wiring harness.
  3 Remove four of the six front engine mount bolts. Remove the stabilizer link bolt and three bottom lower plate bolts. Use the Service Manual for your motorcycle to identify these bolts if you are unsure.
  4 Position a wood block on top of a scissors jack. Slide the jack and block of wood under your engine. Raise the jack approximately a half-inch.
 
5 Break loose the two upper plate bolts with a 9/16-inch deep well socket and a breaker bar. Remove the bolts with the same socket and a ratchet.
 
6 Remove the motor mount plate. Remove the motor mount. Wipe all exposed surfaces around the mount clean with rags and solvent.
 
7 Replace the motor mount plate and position the new motor mount. Replace and finger tighten all six mounting bolts.
 
8 Lower the scissors jack. Remove the scissors jack and wood block.
 
9 Tighten the two upper plate bolts to 33 to 38 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the stabilizer link bolt to 33 to 38 foot-pounds. Tighten the lower plate bolts last, to 33 to 38 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.
 
10 Re-bolt the voltage regulator to the frame with a socket wrench.
 
11 Support the motorcycle while you lower the motorcycle jack. Allow the bike to rest on the jiffy stand.

A half dozen independent parts suppliers as well as Harley sell oil coolers for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The devices help keep the motorcycles air-cooled engine from overheating, especially for bikes that are improperly tuned, ridden long distances or are ridden in very hot climates . All these devices mount on one or both down tubes on the front of the bike. Heat radiates from the oil to the front of an oil cooler where it is dissipated by the wind. Oil coolers add about a quart to the engines oil capacity.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the crankcase into a pan as described in the owners manual for the motorcycle. Oil drains from most Harleys through a crankcase plug which you remove with a socket and socket wrench. A few models drain through a hose after loosening a hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and hand removing a metal plug.

2

Loosen the oil filter using an oil filter wrench. Remove the oil filter by hand and drain the oil in the filter into a pan. Replace the crankcase plug or reseal the drain hose.

3

Clean up all spilled oil with disposable rags. Properly dispose of the used motor oil and filter.

4

Loosen the oil pump hose fitting near the exhaust pipes with a box wrench. Unfasten the oil feed hose from the oil pump by hand. Unscrew the feed hose fitting from the crankcase and discard the hose.

5

Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant or equivalent to the two line fitting included with your oil cooler. Hand tighten the fitting to the crankcase and oil pump. Tighten the fitting to 60 inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Install the cooler return hose included with your oil cooler to the crankcase fitting by hand. Install the cooler supply hose for your oil cooler to the oil pump fitting by hand.

7

Unclip the clutch cable and wire harness from the left down tube. Remove the clips with pliers and discard. Attach the oil cooler clamps that came with your cooler to approximately the same spot on the down tube.

8

Attach but do not tighten the oil cooler to the cooler clamps with the Allen bolts and nuts in your oil cooler kit. Attach the return line to the right most fitting on the bottom of the oil cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver.

9

Attach the oil feed line to the left most fitting on the bottom of the cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver. Tighten both hose clamps.

10

Turn the oil cooler so it faces forward. Check for binds or crimps in the hoses. Tighten the cooler clamps to the down tube to 32 inch pounds of torque.

11

Clip the wiring harness and clutch cable into the oil cooler clamps.

12

Unscrew the cooler supply hose from the oil pump. Screw the return hose to crankcase and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

13

Screw the cooler supply line to the oil pump and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

14

Clip the oil cooler lines with the hardware in your oil cooler kit. Hand tighten a new oil filter to the filter mounting stud. Add the factory recommended amount of oil to your oil tank.

15

Examine the dipstick to and add additional small amounts of oil until the dipstick reads full. Start the motorcycle in neutral and check for oil leaks. Turn off the engine when the cooler becomes warm to the touch.

16

Re-tighten all fasteners to the specifications in your oil cleaner kit instructions when the engine has cooled. Reread the dip stick and add oil as indicated.

The Kuryakyn Hypercharger is a high-flow air cleaner designed to look like a velocity stack or a supercharger. Trap doors on the front of the air cleaner open and close as you open and close the throttle. You will have less leg room with the Hypercharger installed on your Harley than with a stock air cleaner. But even detractors agree that the Hypercharger is a beautiful accessory. Kuryakyn claims that the Hypercharger will add seven horsepower to your Harley over a stock air cleaner.

Instructions

1

Remove your air cleaner cover with an Allen wrench.

2

Remove the air cleaner assembly with Torx sockets or drivers. Remove the breather tubes by hand. Remove the air cleaner backing plate with a socket wrench and hex socket.

3

Close the petcock. Start your Harley and run it until the carburetor is out of gas.

4

Mark the throttle cables with masking tape and disconnect them from the throttle cam. Disconnect the fuel line where it enters the carburetor. Disconnect the enricher from the left side of the Harley.

5

Pull the carburetor from the black rubber exhaust manifold boot by hand.

6

Cut a 1-1/2-inch section of vacuum hose from the hose included with your Hypercharger kit. Assemble the vacuum T included with your kit to form a vacuum line assembly, which will replace your original breather tubes.

7

Install the vacuum hose assembly on your carburetor as shown in your Hypercharger kit.

8

Reinstall the carburetor in the intake manifold boot. Reconnect the throttle cables and the fuel line. Reconnect the enricher to the left side of the motorcycle.

9

Attach the chrome carburetor support bracket to the mouth of the carburetor with the hollow bolts and cup washer included in the kit. Sandwich the intake gasket between the carburetor and the support bracket and tighten the bolts.

10

Assemble the rubber boot assembly included with your Hypercharger as shown in the kit. Snap the breather boots in the assembly over the cup washers.

11

Remove the round trap door in the Hypercharger with a 1/8-inch Allen wrench. Insert three 1/4-inch socket head cap screws through the mounting holes in the Hypercharger from the inside. Remove the adhesive backing from one of the intake gaskets and place it over the three mounting screws.

12

Sandwich the intake gasket between the breather manifold and support bracket. Position the Hypercharger over the breather manifold and bolt the Hypercharger securely to the carburetor support bracket/ breather manifold assembly.

13

Replace the trap door and gasket.

14

Plug the vacuum hose assembly into the vacuum pod air jet on the back of the Hypercharger.

Heritage Softails come equipped from the factory with a light bar. Well known aftermarket vendors like Kuryakyn and Harley-Davidson sell bolt-on auxiliary lighting for Softails. The extent to which extra lights brighten the road is open to debate. Many jurisdictions mandate that the extra light be turned off when the headlight is switched to high beam. But it is undeniable that the extra lights make the motorcycle brighter and make it, and the rider, easier to spot.

Instructions

EFI Fuel Tank Removal

1

Ride the motorcycle until the gas tank is almost empty.

2

Pull off the electrical caddy cover, on the right side of the motorcycle, with your hands. Pull the fuel pump fuse out of the fuse array with a fuse puller.

3

Run the engine until it dies. Push the starter button for another three or four seconds.

4

Pull both ends of the quick connect fitting under the gas tank in opposite directions until the two halves of the fitting come apart.

5

Loosen the screw that holds the rear fender and the seat together with a Phillips head screwdriver. Lift off the seat.

6

Loosen the black battery cable with a combination wrench. Pull the cable from the negative terminal.

7

Loosen and remove the nut in the middle of the instrument panel with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Pull the instrument panel up and pull the male and female halves of the fuel pump module connector apart.

8

Plug the end of a short length of 5/16 inch diameter, rubber hose with a bolt of the same size. Secure the bolt in the hose with a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

9

Place a 5 gallon gas can next to the motorcycle. Sever the clamp on either end of the crossover fuel line with metal shears.

10

Pull the loose end of the crossover line off the tank fitting and immediately replace it the open end of the 5/16 inch hose. Drain the crossover line into the 5 gallon can.

11

Clean up spillage with rags and remove the rags from the work location. Set the can aside.

12

Unplug the crossover and vent lines from the bottom of the tank. Unbolt both the front and rear mounting bolts, washers and nuts with a combination wrench. Unplug the male and female halves of the fuel gauge wiring plug.

13

Pull the tank off the motorcycle with your hands.

Auxiliary Lighting Installation

14

Attach the right and left light bar mounting clamps in the accessory lighting kit to the two fork tubes using the Allen screws in the kit and an Allen socket. Tighten both screws to 75 inch pounds of torque with the Allen socket and a torque wrench.

15

Thread the wires from the accessory lights through the holes in the mounting brackets and fasten the lights to the brackets with the washers, retainers and clamp blocks included with the kit. Tighten the retainers of 19 pounds with an open end socket and torque wrench.

16

Slip the inner nesting rings in the lighting kit onto the light bulbs in the kit. Lock the black wires to the black terminals next to the indexing tabs and the grey wires to the grey terminals.

17

Install the accessory light bulbs into the chrome trim rings using the screws included with the kit and a screwdriver. Thread the light wires through the chrome tubes in the kit.

18

Place the accessory lights wiring harness in the shallow pan that holds the seat. Stretch the longest wires along the backbone of the frame to the steering head.

19

Remove the hex nut from the ground wire stud with a combination wrench. Slide the ground wire ring from the accessory lighting wiring harness onto the stud and replace the nut.

20

Snap the white wiring harness connector into the "B" positive connector on the accessory lighting wire harness.

21

Tie the accessory harness to the main wiring harness with the cable ties included with the accessory lighting kit.

22

Stretch the longest wires in the auxiliary harness past the steering head. Route the light switch wires up the triple trees and across the left handlebar to the clutch lever cover.

23

Disassemble the chrome, switch mounting bracket with a Torx driver, install the light switch and reassemble the mounting bracket.

24

Remove the lower screw from the clutch lever housing with a Torx driver. Put the switch bracket tab over the hole and reinstall the screw. Tighten to 68 inch pounds using a torque wrench and Torx socket.

25

Push the light switch wiring harness into the handlebar wiring retainers. Remove the trim ring from the headlight with a Phillips head screwdriver.

26

Unplug the connector block from the headlight prongs. Unwrap the waterproof boot from the rear of the headlight.

27

Squeeze and remove the retaining clip from the headlamp assembly. Twist the clip away from the headlamp and remove the headlamp bulb.

28

Push the end of the light switch wire through the rubber ring in the headlight housing. Splice the switch wire to the yellow headlight wire using the crimp connecter in the lighting kit and a pair of pliers.

29

Replace the headlight bulb in the headlight housing.

30

Slip heat shrinkable tubing from the kit over the white wire in the accessory wiring harness. Strip the insulation from the end 1/4 inch of the two auxiliary lights power wires with a wire stripper.

31

Splice all three wires with the three-way tube connector in the kit using a crimping tool. Cover the connector with the heat shrink tube and heat with a heat gun until the tube shrinks around the splice.

Final Assembly

32

Secure all loose wires with the clips included in the kit.

33

Reattach the gas tank. Refuel the motorcycle.

34

Reconnect the black battery cable. Replace the fuel pump fuse.

35

Reattach the electrical caddy cover and seat.

Never lower the front end of any motorcycle without also lowering the rear of that motorcycle the same amount. Because of elements of frame geometry called "rake" and "trail" it is possible to safely lower just the rear end of a motorcycle, but lowering only the front end can make the bike dangerously unstable. Lowering a motorcycle also decreases the bikes ground clearance. Nevertheless, it remains a popular modification. Progressive Suspension sells a fork lowering kit that includes all the parts you will need. Harley sells a kit that includes everything except a couple of seals.

Instructions

Fork Disassembly

1

Remove the windshield from the Softail Heritage using the quick detach mechanism.

2

Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the front tire is off the floor and the forks are fully extended.

3

Remove the front brake caliper with a hex socket and a socket wrench. Support the caliper with a bungee cord attached to the caliper and the handlebars.

4

Remove the axle nut, lock washer and washer with a socket wrench and hex socket. Pull the axle free from the wheel. Remove the front wheel from the forks.

5

Remove the 4 front fender mounting screws and nuts with an Allen wrench and a hex socket and a socket wrench. Remove the front fender.

6

Remove both slider tube caps with a large adjustable wrench. Remove the slider tube cap washers and seals from both forks.

7

Remove the clamp bolts from both sides of the fork tube bracket with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Pull the forks from the bracket.

8

Remove the fork tube plugs and O-rings from both slider tubes using a large adjustable wrench. Pull the fork springs from both slider tubes.

9

Remove the drain screw and washer from one fork slider at a time with a Phillips head screwdriver. Drain the fork oil from one fork at a time into a drain pan.

Fork Reassembly

10

Reinstall the drain screws and washers into both fork sliders. Refill the forks with the type and quantity of fork oil specified in the owners manual for your year Heritage Softail.

11

Insert the new springs from the fork lowering kit into each slider tube with the more tightly wound portion of the spring on the bottom.

12

Replace the fork tube plugs and O-rings into both slider tubes and tighten securely with a large adjustable wrench. Ensure that one flat on each fork tube plug faces toward the inside of the fork.

13

Insert both fork slider assemblies up through the slider covers, the fork stem and bracket, and the upper fork bracket.

14

Install 2 new fork cap oil seals and the old spacers and slider tube caps onto the tops of the slider tubes with a large adjustable wrench.

15

Reinstall the clamp bots into both sides of the fork tube bracket and tighten with an Allen socket and torque wrench to 35 foot pounds of torque.

16

Replace the front fender. Replace the 4 front fender mounting screws and nuts with an Allen wrench and a hex socket and socket wrench.

Jiffy Stand

17

Retract the jiffy stand installed on the bike to the "up" position. Unhook the jiffy stand spring from the frame. Remove the jiffy stand bolt, washer, lock washer and leg stop from the threaded end of the jiffy stand with a hex socket and socket wrench.

18

Discard the old jiffy stand. Retain all hardware and other components.

19

Assemble the new jiffy stand leg assembly from the kit to the mounting bracket on the motorcycle. Open the jiffy stand to the "down" position.

20

Position the jiffy stand leg over the square end of the jiffy stand assembly. Ensure the "down side" text on the leg is facing down and that the longer side of the leg faces the rear of the bike.

21

Reinstall the flat washer, lock washer and bolt you removed with a socket wrench and hex socket.

22

Reattach the jiffy stand leg spring. Install the rubber from the kit into the hole on the raised tip of the jiffy stand leg. Extend and retract the jiffy stand leg several times to verify proper operation.

Final Reassembly

23

Put your foot under forks. Roll the front laced wheel into the forks atop your foot. Lift your foot.

24

Replace the axle. Replace the axle nut, lock washer and washer. Tighten the axle nut to 55 foot pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.

25

Replace the front brake caliper. Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to 38 pounds of torque with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

26

Lower the motorcycle jack and remove. Replace the front windshield.

Harley introduced Road King dressers with an 82 cubic inch Evolution engine in 1993. The models were sold with 88 inch Twin Cam engines beginning in 1999, and since 2006 the model has been shipped with 96 cubic inch Twin Cam power plants. The current model weighs about 815 pounds. They are designed for long distance travel so riders who do a lot of touring are often concerned with gas mileage. After performing basic stage one power upgrades, more power always equals poorer gas mileage. There are, however, a number of suggestions for improving power without seriously degrading mileage on the road.

Instructions

1

It is common to call the first necessary power improvements to any new Road King the "Harley tax." The Motor Company inhibits the respiration of new motors to better meet government clean air goals. The first power improvement you should make is to your Road Kings air intake. Replace your stock air cleaner with a high flow air cleaner.

2

If your motorcycle is carbureted, rejet your carb, remove the factory installed air-fuel mixture plug on the bottom of your stock carburetor and fatten up the mixture slightly. If your bike has Electronic Fuel Injection, replace your EFI module with an aftermarket model or at least have your stock EFI remapped by a competent technician. Research done by Harley-Davidson in 2007 showed that Road King horsepower could be increased by about 9 percent by remapping alone.

3

Install a high performance, two into one exhaust. What the engine breathes in it must also breathe out. Installation of an efficient exhaust system can also add another nine or ten percent to your engines horsepower. Two into one exhausts help maintain equal back pressure in both cylinders. Replacing your Road Kings exhaust is a basic job you should have no trouble doing yourself.

4

If you spend most of the time on your Road King touring, you should consider a replacement cam or cams. Cams control the flow of air into and exhaust out of your cylinders. They also influence the power range of your bike. If you spend most of your riding time going 80 miles an hour through the wide open spaces you want your Road King to make power most efficiently in that power band.

5

Consider replacing your stock cylinder heads with aftermarket cylinder heads. Head design and porting is a craft that is difficult to perfect with mass-produced products. The shape and finish of your heads greatly effects efficiency of the explosions in your engines. Bigger bangs mean more power. Most after market head makers and porters claim power increases of up to ten percent with their products.

Because a motorcycle is not so much a vehicle as a cloak of invisibility, bikers who love life are often characterized by automobile drivers and other potential assassins as obnoxiously loud. A favorite way to rouse the ire and attention of drivers who like to text message while listening to rap music is the very loud bike horn. And the most famous loud horn is the Nautilus Compact Motorcycle Air Horn which the manufacturer, an Italian company named Stebel, describes as "shockingly loud."

Instructions

1

Remove the Allen bolt and washer from the seat tab that fastens your seat to the fender. Remove the seat with your hands.

2

Disconnect the cable from your negative battery terminal with an open end wrench. Disconnect the positive terminal.

3

Remove the elbow contacts from the spade terminals on your original horn. Remove the Torx screws and washers that fasten the horn bracket and the upper stabilizer link bracket to the frame with a Torx driver.

4

Remove the horn and bracket from the frame. Remove the horn from the horn bracket.

5

Enlarge the bottom hole on the horn mounting bracket with an electric drill and a inch drill bit. Replace the upper stabilizer link bracket and horn bracket on the frame using a Torx socket or driver.

6

Cut the elbow terminal from the yellow/ black horn wire on the main harness conduit with a pair of side cutting pliers. Slide a 1 inch section of heat shrink tubing over the horn wire.

7

Splice the horn wire to one of the two blue wires on the Stebel horn. Cover the splice with the section of heat shrink tubing. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

8

Plug the second blue wire into the "one wire adapter" included with the air horn kit.

9

Plug the red and black wires included with your kit into the bottom of the Stebel horn air compressor. Route the red and black wires to the battery compartment.

10

Attach the red air horn wire to the positive battery terminal. Attach the black air horn wire to the negative battery terminal.

11

Mount the Stebel air horn to the horn bracket with the mounting bolt included with the air horn kit. Tighten the mount bolt with an open end wrench. Mount the horn so that it is vertical and the air intake port faces the rear of the motorcycle.

12

Replace the battery cables and tighten with an open end wrench. Replace the seat mounting bolt washer and tighten the seat mounting bolt and with an Allen wrench.

In 1991, Harley-Davidson shipped motorcycles with two radically different styles of forks. Springer Softail models shipped with "springer" forks, or what old-timers call "new style springer" forks. The ones Harley shipped include two exposed coil springs and a shock absorber. Most of the motorcycles Harley shipped in 1991, though, had telescoping tube forks of several widths and tube diameters. These forks are hydraulic shock absorbers, and the only service Harley recommends is that you change the fork oil every 20,000 miles. There are a half dozen methods for changing fork oil in these forks; this is a method of which Harley-Davidson approves.

Instructions

1

Loosen the fork cap on top of the left fork with a 1-3/8 inch open-end wrench or a large adjustable wrench. Remove the fork cap, washer and O-ring.

2

Remove the drain plug on the bottom, side or back of the fork slider assembly with a Phillips head screwdriver. Drain the fork oil into a pan.

3

Coat the drain plug threads with Teflon paste. Replace the plug into the drain hole and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver.

4

Measure the correct weight and amount of fork oil, as specified in the owners manual or shop manual, for your motorcycle into a pint measuring cup. Most 1991 Harleys will use about 11 ounces of 10-weight oil.

5

Stick a funnel into the top of the fork; pour the measured amount of oil into the funnel.

6

Reinstall the O-ring, washer and fork cap. Tighten the cap wrench securely with a 1-/38 inch open-end or adjustable wrench.

7

Repeat all these steps for the right fork.

Two ways are available to get a Harley with a more open, unrestricted exhaust, unless you live in California. The most economical way is to drill a one inch hole through the stock baffles of your Harley. You need a bit at least eight inches long and you must drill in the center of the baffles. Proponents believe this simple solution to the overly restrictive stock exhaust can produce up to seven more horsepower. But, this approach will not work with Harleys sold in California because the catalytic converter gets in the way. Most riders simply replace their exhaust with aftermarket pipes. Here is how you do that.

Instructions

1

Make sure your engine and exhaust pipes are cool. Cover the frame, engine, swing arm and rear wheel behind your exhaust with clean rags so you will not scratch your paint or chrome. Loosen all nuts and bolts that attach the exhaust system to your motorcycle with a socket wrench or box wrenches.

2

Find the exhaust support bracket behind the exhaust pipes and remove it with a socket and wrench. Spray penetrating oil around each muffler where it joins the exhaust pipe. Wait five minutes and then pull the mufflers off with your hands. Repeat as necessary.

3

Find and loosen the oxygen sensor with a box wrench. Disconnect the oxygen sensor with your hands. Disconnect the head pipes with a socket wrench. Remove and save the retainer rings and clamps from your old pipes for reuse.

4

Bolt on the new mounting bracket included with your replacement exhaust. Always use wrenches to turn bolts. Use a thread locker on the threads. Install the retainer rings and clamps from your old exhaust on your new exhaust with your fingers and a screwdriver.

5

Your new exhaust will probably be a one piece exhaust without slip-on mufflers. Bolt your new exhaust to your exhaust manifold and the new mounting bracket. Hand tighten all bolts and then wrench tighten.

6

Apply Teflon paste to the heat sensor and reconnect. If supplied as separate pieces, insert the new baffle or baffles into the tail pipes. Attach the new heat shields with a flat-head screwdriver.

Leaking rocker box gaskets were a particular problem with Harley Evolution engines. Harley went through four generations of lower rocker covers and four versions of the middle cover, or D-Ring, as the motor company tried to solve the problem. The earliest gaskets, from 1984 to 1987, were made of cork. The next versions, which lasted until 1990, were made of zinc and leaked the most. Subsequent versions were rubber. Removing rocker box covers to replace the gaskets is a straightforward process. Very experienced mechanics can do the job without removing the gas tank but less experienced mechanics should probably begin this job by remove the tank.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Ensure the motorcycle is cold.

2

Remove the seat bolt and washer from the tab on the rear of your seat. Remove the seat to access the battery. Loosen the negative battery cable from the terminal with a box wrench and remove the cable from the battery.

3

Remove the center console. Typically, the center console is attached to the center console bracket with three Allen head screws.

4

Remove the fuel line from the petcock. Typically the petcock and fuel supply are joined by a hose clamp. Loosen the hose clamp with a flat head screwdrivers.

5

Drain the gasoline in your tank into an adequately sized, sealable, gas can. On models with dual gas caps, disconnect the crossover and fuel venting hoses in the front, middle bottom of the tank.

6

Remove the front mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with a box wrench and socket wrench. Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut.

7

Disconnect the fuel gauge connector on recent models. The fuel gauge connector is under the left side of the fuel tank.

8

Remove the gas tank from the motorcycle. Set the tank on a flat stable surface in a well vented place.

9

Remove the six Allen bolts and washers that connect the rocker cover to the rocker assembly. Begin with the front rocker box and work on one cylinder at a time.

10

Remove the metal D-ring if your motorcycle is equipped with an Evolution engine. Note the top, bottom and orientation of the D-ring. Completely remove the old gasket. Use a gasket scraper if necessary.

11

Examine your rocker arm housing. Rocker arm housings with only a partial inner lip require you to use an adhesive like high temperature rubber cement to properly install the new gasket. Rocker arm housings with a full inner lip do not require adhesive.

12

Apply adhesive if needed and properly place the gasket on the rocker arm. Replace the D-Ring on Evolution engines. Replace the rocker arm cover.

13

Tighten the Allen bolts in a cross pattern to 10 to 12 foot pounds of torque. Refer to the shop manual for your motorcycle and use the exact torque sequence and specifications described there.

14

Re-bolt the gas tank to your motorcycle. Reconnect the fuel gauge connector. Reinstall the fuel line to the petcock.

15

Reinstall the center console. Refuel the motorcycle.

16

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery. Reinstall the seat.

To properly service your Harley, you must be aware of the location of your clutch cable adjuster. The adjuster must be accessible if you are going to properly maintain your bike. Usually, the most variation in cable lengths is the distance between the adjuster and the clutch lever. It is not necessary to measure Harley-Davidson stock clutch replacement cables; the part is always simply sold as "stock" length. However, you must always measure the clutch cable when you replace your stock handlebars or install handlebar risers. It is best to install the new handlebars or risers first, then measure for your replacement cable immediately after.

Instructions

1

Tape one end of the piano wire to the top of your clutch lever housing. Ensure that the wire extends across the entire breadth of the housing.

2

Turn the handlebars all the way to the right to ensure your clutch cable will cover your full turning radius.

3

Route the piano wire down your forks. Tape the wire to your forks approximately where the clutch cable adjuster was located on your old clutch cable.

4

Route the wire two inches beyond the spot where your old clutch cable entered your primary case. Mark that termination point on the wire with a third piece of tape.

5

Remove the piano wire from your motorcycle. Remove the first two pieces of masking tape. Measure the distance from the end of the wire to the third piece of masking tape with a steel or cloth measuring tape.

There are four likely causes that an oil gauge on a Harley might indicate high oil pressure. Two of the causes are literally connected to the oil tank. In order of probability from most to least, your oil pressure gauge is faulty or the electrical connection is loose; your crankcase vent line is clogged; either your oil return or your oil feeder line is kinked or blocked; or finally, your oil tank is overfilled. Work the problem in a few steps.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from your oil tank into a drain pan by loosening the hose clamp on you drain line with a screwdriver and removing the oil drain plug with a pair of pliers. Replace the plug and drain line after the oil drains from the oil tank.

2

Remove the oil filter from the front of your bike with an oil filter wrench. Drain the oil from the filter into the drain pan.

3

Discard the old oil filter and install a new filter hand tight onto the oil filter stud.

4

Follow the wires from your oil pressure gauge top the crankcase and check for loose connections or an obviously defective wire.

5

Inspect the oil feeder and oil return line from the crankcase to the oil tank. Physically remove the lines by unfastening any hose clamps with a screwdriver and any permanent fittings with an open end wrench.

6

Stick a wire through the length of the hoses to ensure the hoses are not clogged. Replace the two oil lines.

7

Follow the oil vent line from the top of the oil tank next to the return line to the crankcase. Remove the line from the crankcase with an open end wrench. Pull the line out of the oil tank with your hands.

8

Sick a wire through the vent line to ensure it is not clogged. Replace the vent line with an open end wrench.

9

Add the appropriate amount of oil, either 3 or 4 quarts, to the oil tank as specified in the owners manual for your Harley. Turn over the motorcycle for about 15 seconds.

10

Remove the fill plug and read the dipstick to ensure the oil level reads full. Start the motorcycle and check the oil gauge. If the gauge still indicates that your oil pressure is too high the gauge is probably defective.