Repair And Fix it

The Honda Prelude is a sports coupe that Honda manufactured from 1978 to 2001. The 1998 model is available with several types four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engines, which have a single or double overhead camshaft. These engines use a timing belt to keep the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The timing belt has a limited lifetime and its repair consists of replacing the timing belt at periodic intervals.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the No. 1 cylinder to its top dead center position. Remove the covers for the valves and timing belt.

2

Fasten a bolt for the timing belt cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. This will hold the adjuster arm in place temporarily. Loosen the adjuster nut for the timing belt by one turn and push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to reduce the tension on the belt.

3

Hold the tensioner for the balancer in place and tighten its adjusting nut with a socket wrench. Remove the balancer belt from its pulleys and detach the sprocket for the balancer belt from the crankshaft.

4

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and push the tensioner to relieve the timing belt tension. Tighten the adjuster nut to hold the belt tensioner in place and remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulley.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing pointer with the timing mark on the flywheel. Turn the camshaft pulley clockwise until the word "UP" is on top of the pulley.

6

Install the timing belt onto its pulleys and belt tensioner. Loosen the locking bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt, then tighten it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the timing belt forward by three teeth to place tension on the timing belt.

7

Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt with a torque wrench, then tighten it to 33 foot-pounds. Tighten the locking bolt for the timing belt tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. Place the sprocket for the balancer belt on the crankshaft and turn the pulley for the balancer belt so that its timing mark aligns with the notch on the oil pump.

8

Install the balancer belt onto its pulleys, ensuring that its timing marks remain aligned. Loosen the adjusting nut for the balancer belt tensioner slowly to place tension on the balancer belt.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise one turn to align the timing marks on the timing belt and tighten the adjusting nut to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the bolt that is holding the timing belt tensioner in place. Install the covers for the timing belt and valves. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The 2000 Mustang GT uses McPherson Type struts on its front suspension. This type of strut makes up part of the cars steering assembly, with the damper acting as the upper steering pivot. If you are noticing your Mustang is riding rougher and not handling as well, the struts may be to blame. You can purchase the individual strut or an entire assembly. The individual strut is cheaper, but its easier to replace an intact assembly.

Instructions

Removal

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels with a lug wrench and raise the car with an automotive jack. Place a jack stand under the lower controls that are on each side of the car. Remove the lug nuts and both wheels.

2

Use a socket wrench to remove the center bolts from the brake caliper guide pins and pull the pins out of the caliper. Pull the caliper off the rotor and secure it out of the way with a piece of wire. Be caul not to damage the brake hose.

3

Open the hood and remove the three nuts that attach the strut assembly to the cars frame.

4

Locate the mounting bracket attached to the strut assembly that holds the brake line. Remove the nut and detach the bracket. Cars not equipped with ABS will not have this.

5

Locate the two large bolts that attach the strut to the spindle and remove the nuts with a socket wrench. You might need to hold the bolt head with another wrench to prevent it from turning. Place a large screwdriver or punch against the each bolt and tap it with a mallet to drive it out.

6

Pull the strut assembly down and out of the car.

Installation

7

Insert the new strut assembly up into place. Make sure the strut is properly aligned and that the three bolts are inserted into their holes at the top. Replace the three nuts, but do not tighten them.

8

Replace the two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. Replace the nuts and tighten them to 141 to 191 ft.-lbs. of torque with a torque wrench.

9

Replace the brake line bracket.

10

Tighten the top bolts to 25 ft.-lbs. of torque.

11

Place the brake caliper into place and insert the guide pins. Repeat the strut replacement procedure on the opposite side. Replace the wheel and lug nuts.

Often, if your vehicle will not start, the first thing to examine is the battery. Vehicles require a battery to not only start the car, but also to run the accessories such as the headlights and interior lights. While the car is running, the alternator charges the battery so that it can continue to function. If headlights or interior lights are left on for a prolonged period of time while the car is off, it could drain the battery. A dead battery can be recharged using another car or an automatic battery charger, which requires an electrical outlet.

Instructions

1

Add enough water to the battery cells so that the battery acid covers the internal plates. Refer to the documentation included with your battery or contact the battery manufacturer for specific instructions on adding water to the battery.

2

Ensure that the automatic battery charger is set to the "Off" position and that all accessories in the vehicle are switched to the "Off" position.

3

Clip the red connection to the positive terminal on the battery. The positive terminal is marked with a "+" sign and is typically red.

4

Clip the black connection to the frame of the vehicle or to the vehicles engine block.

5

Set the voltage and rate switches to the proper settings if the charger has this function. Look on the battery, or contact the battery manufacturer for the proper settings for your particular battery.

6

Plug the automatic battery charger into the grounded outlet, then turn the device to the "On" position. Allow the charger to charge the battery until the meter on the automatic battery charger shows that the battery is charged. Do not at any point touch the clips or the battery while the battery is charging. A chart containing the recommended charge times for specific types of batteries has been included in the References section.

7

Turn the automatic battery charger to the "Off" position once the battery is charged, then unplug the unit from the grounded electrical outlet.

8

Disconnect the charger from the battery and car and attempt to start the vehicle.

Coil springs are a part of the cars suspension system -- most notably on older model cars. They are a strong component, but not known for having a smooth ride. Not much more than extra large heavy duty springs, removing them to replace with new ones or do other work is a physical but not difficult task. Youll need to take care to avoid injury when compressing these springs during removal.

Instructions

1

Lift the end of the car you will be removing the coil springs from, and secure the tires on the opposite end with wheel blocks. Place the jack stands beneath the car frame.

2

Remove the tires from the working end of the vehicle and set aside. Remove the sway bar linkage and the shock absorber if there is one from one side.

3

Spray the coil spring nut and the surrounding parts with spray lubricant. Insert the coil spring compressor, and compress the coil by turning the nut on the tool. You may have to adjust the placement of the compressor so there is room for the turning screw to raise as you tighten the tool.

4

Place the floor jack beneath the lift arm, and raise just enough to take the tension off the coil spring nut. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut, and loosen the nut.

5

Hit the spindle squarely with a mallet. This may take a few tries, but you will feel the pop when the ball joint bolt comes loose. The jack will hold everything in place.

6

Slowly lower the floor jack. The coil spring may or may not slide right out as you do so. If not caully remove it. Decompress the spring very caully from the coil compressor tool.

7

Repeat for the other side, then the other wheels if the car has coils springs on all four.

A bumper jack raises a vehicle in either the front or rear to gain access to the parts underneath for repairs. An air bumper jack is a bottle design that uses air pressure to raise and lower the jack. In the manual mode, you pump the handle up and down to add air pressure inside the jack and extend the saddle upwards to raise it. An air compressor connects to the bottle jack to use for raising the jack automatically instead of pumping the handle up and down.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the emergency brake. Place a wheel chock or brick in front of each front wheel if you are jacking the back up. Place a wheel chock or brick behind each rear wheel if you are jacking up the front of a vehicle.

2

Insert one of the two handle pieces that are smooth on both ends into the other. Press the spring pin in one, insert the other and align the pin with the hole in the second piece. The pin will pop out and hold it in position in the hole in the handle. Attach the third handle piece to the bottom of the first two pieces in the same manner. The bottom handle piece has a U-shaped fitting on the bottom end.

3

Insert the bottom of the handle into the release valve on the bottom of the air bottle jack. Turn the handle clockwise as far as it will turn to close the release valve.

4

Turn on an air compressor and let it power up until it cycles off. Attach the air compressor hose to the air compressor by pulling the quick connector ring back, inserting it onto the fitting and releasing the quick connector. Attach the other end of the air compressor hose on the air control valve on the front side of the bottle jack in the same manner.

5

Push the bottle jack with the handle to position it under the vehicle bumper where it attached to the frame while allowing access to the air control valve. The air control valve is above the air compressor hose fitting on the jack. Place a piece of wood or two-by-four board on the round saddle of the bottle jack top.

6

Grasp and squeeze the air control valve to add air to the jack and raise the saddle under the vehicle. Release the air control valve when the vehicle is high enough off the ground.

7

Place a jack stand under the vehicle to support it. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise in the release valve slowly to lower the jack. Pull the jack out from under the vehicle.

Heritage Softails come equipped from the factory with a light bar. Well known aftermarket vendors like Kuryakyn and Harley-Davidson sell bolt-on auxiliary lighting for Softails. The extent to which extra lights brighten the road is open to debate. Many jurisdictions mandate that the extra light be turned off when the headlight is switched to high beam. But it is undeniable that the extra lights make the motorcycle brighter and make it, and the rider, easier to spot.

Instructions

EFI Fuel Tank Removal

1

Ride the motorcycle until the gas tank is almost empty.

2

Pull off the electrical caddy cover, on the right side of the motorcycle, with your hands. Pull the fuel pump fuse out of the fuse array with a fuse puller.

3

Run the engine until it dies. Push the starter button for another three or four seconds.

4

Pull both ends of the quick connect fitting under the gas tank in opposite directions until the two halves of the fitting come apart.

5

Loosen the screw that holds the rear fender and the seat together with a Phillips head screwdriver. Lift off the seat.

6

Loosen the black battery cable with a combination wrench. Pull the cable from the negative terminal.

7

Loosen and remove the nut in the middle of the instrument panel with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Pull the instrument panel up and pull the male and female halves of the fuel pump module connector apart.

8

Plug the end of a short length of 5/16 inch diameter, rubber hose with a bolt of the same size. Secure the bolt in the hose with a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

9

Place a 5 gallon gas can next to the motorcycle. Sever the clamp on either end of the crossover fuel line with metal shears.

10

Pull the loose end of the crossover line off the tank fitting and immediately replace it the open end of the 5/16 inch hose. Drain the crossover line into the 5 gallon can.

11

Clean up spillage with rags and remove the rags from the work location. Set the can aside.

12

Unplug the crossover and vent lines from the bottom of the tank. Unbolt both the front and rear mounting bolts, washers and nuts with a combination wrench. Unplug the male and female halves of the fuel gauge wiring plug.

13

Pull the tank off the motorcycle with your hands.

Auxiliary Lighting Installation

14

Attach the right and left light bar mounting clamps in the accessory lighting kit to the two fork tubes using the Allen screws in the kit and an Allen socket. Tighten both screws to 75 inch pounds of torque with the Allen socket and a torque wrench.

15

Thread the wires from the accessory lights through the holes in the mounting brackets and fasten the lights to the brackets with the washers, retainers and clamp blocks included with the kit. Tighten the retainers of 19 pounds with an open end socket and torque wrench.

16

Slip the inner nesting rings in the lighting kit onto the light bulbs in the kit. Lock the black wires to the black terminals next to the indexing tabs and the grey wires to the grey terminals.

17

Install the accessory light bulbs into the chrome trim rings using the screws included with the kit and a screwdriver. Thread the light wires through the chrome tubes in the kit.

18

Place the accessory lights wiring harness in the shallow pan that holds the seat. Stretch the longest wires along the backbone of the frame to the steering head.

19

Remove the hex nut from the ground wire stud with a combination wrench. Slide the ground wire ring from the accessory lighting wiring harness onto the stud and replace the nut.

20

Snap the white wiring harness connector into the "B" positive connector on the accessory lighting wire harness.

21

Tie the accessory harness to the main wiring harness with the cable ties included with the accessory lighting kit.

22

Stretch the longest wires in the auxiliary harness past the steering head. Route the light switch wires up the triple trees and across the left handlebar to the clutch lever cover.

23

Disassemble the chrome, switch mounting bracket with a Torx driver, install the light switch and reassemble the mounting bracket.

24

Remove the lower screw from the clutch lever housing with a Torx driver. Put the switch bracket tab over the hole and reinstall the screw. Tighten to 68 inch pounds using a torque wrench and Torx socket.

25

Push the light switch wiring harness into the handlebar wiring retainers. Remove the trim ring from the headlight with a Phillips head screwdriver.

26

Unplug the connector block from the headlight prongs. Unwrap the waterproof boot from the rear of the headlight.

27

Squeeze and remove the retaining clip from the headlamp assembly. Twist the clip away from the headlamp and remove the headlamp bulb.

28

Push the end of the light switch wire through the rubber ring in the headlight housing. Splice the switch wire to the yellow headlight wire using the crimp connecter in the lighting kit and a pair of pliers.

29

Replace the headlight bulb in the headlight housing.

30

Slip heat shrinkable tubing from the kit over the white wire in the accessory wiring harness. Strip the insulation from the end 1/4 inch of the two auxiliary lights power wires with a wire stripper.

31

Splice all three wires with the three-way tube connector in the kit using a crimping tool. Cover the connector with the heat shrink tube and heat with a heat gun until the tube shrinks around the splice.

Final Assembly

32

Secure all loose wires with the clips included in the kit.

33

Reattach the gas tank. Refuel the motorcycle.

34

Reconnect the black battery cable. Replace the fuel pump fuse.

35

Reattach the electrical caddy cover and seat.

The Honda Civic is a line of subcompact and compact cars made by Honda since 1973. The models made from 2006 to 2010 are compacts with several choices of engines, most often a four-cylinder 1.8-liter engine. These vehicles use mult-port fuel injection, which requires a fuel pressure regulator to control the pressure in the fuel lines. The fuel pressure regulator in recent model Honda Civics is located under the rear seat and is part of the fuel tank unit.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump under the dashboard and start the engine. Allow the engine to run until it stalls and replace the fuse for the fuel pump. Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the discharge of fuel into the fuel system.

2

Remove the cushion from the rear seat of the vehicle and pull the upper cross-member from the rear floor. Disconnect the retaining screws for the access panel with a socket wrench and remove the access panel. Detach the electrical connector from the fuel tank unit; release the quick-connect fittings from the fuel tank unit.

3

Turn the locknut counterclockwise with Locknut Wrench 07AAA-SNAA100 to loosen the it. Remove the locknut from the fuel tank unit; detach the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank.

4

Disconnect the bracket and O-ring from the fuel tank unit. Detach the fuel pressure regulator from the rest of the fuel tank unit and discard the O-ring.

5

Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil and mount the new O-ring onto the new fuel pressure regulator. Connect the bracket to the fuel pressure regulator. Align the marks on the fuel tank unit with those on the fuel tank unit and install the fuel tank unit.

6

Mount the locknut onto the fuel tank unit. Turn the locknut clockwise with Locknut Wrench 07AAA-SNAA100 until it locks into place. Attach the quick-connect fittings and the electrical connectors for the fuel tank unit.

7

Replace the access panel and fasten its retaining screws with a socket wrench. Replace the upper cross-member in the rear floor and install the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

The Chevrolet Blazer was a mid-size sport utility vehicle made by General Motors from 1983 to 2005. The second generation of this model was in production from 1995 to 2005 and all of these vehicles were equipped with a six-cylinder 4.3-liter engine. Each cylinder of an engine has its own fuel injector, which delivers fuel and air in a precise sequence. You can replace an individual fuel injector on the 1997 Chevrolet Blazer.

Instructions

1

Remove the air cleaner with a socket wrench and disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Press the two tabs on the fuel injectors electrical connector together, and pull the electrical connector up to disconnect it from the fuel injector. Remove the cover for the fuel meter with a socket wrench and discard its gasket. Lift the fuel injector from the fuel meter carefully with a small pry bar.

3

Remove the small O-ring from the nozzle of the fuel injector. Detach the fuel filter from the fuel injector by carefully rotating the fuel filter back and forth. Remove the large O-ring and washer from the injector cavity of the fuel meter.

4

Apply a thin layer of transmission fluid to the small O-ring and push it onto the nozzle of the injector until it is flush against the fuel filter for the injector. Install the washer into the cavity of the fuel meter and apply transmission fluid to the large O-ring. Seat the large O-ring against the washer so that it is flush with the top of the fuel meter.

5

Align the raised lug on the base of the fuel injector with the notch in the cavity of the fuel meter. Press the fuel injector down firmly to ensure that it is fully seated. Install the cover for the fuel meter and its new gasket. Attach the electrical connector to the fuel injector. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Just like any automotive part, alternators sometimes fail and need to be replaced. The alternator in a vehicle keeps the battery in prime condition for start up. Batteries tend to need replacement more often than alternators. If a malfunctioning battery can jump-start a car, the alternator can provide enough energy to keep the car running for a short time. However, batteries only have reserve power in them; so when the alternator isnt providing a recharge, the battery will die, and the car will not start.

Instructions

1

Locate the alternator right below the bottom of the engine. Most alternators are easy to find, but on some vehicles, the alternator may not be as apparent. In most vehicles, the alternator requires some minor lifting of the vehicle to be removed. If this is the case, use a floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle to remove the alternator. Put on gloves then use a wrench to remove the negative battery terminal from the battery to disconnect power to the alternator.

2

Remove the belt attached to the alternator pulley if applicable. The V-belt can be removed by loosening the alternator adjusting bolts along the sliding bracket. This will release any belt tension and make it easy to slip off. For some older cars, you may need to loosen another couple of adjusting bolts with a socket wrench as well as bolts on the pulley to detach the pulley belt.

3

Disengage the electrical connections to the alternator. These connections are usually visible and easy to remove. Some other connections may require moving a red cap to access the retaining nut for the wires. There will also be a plug connection to the alternator located on the back of the alternators housing. You may also need to remove the bracket bolts. Once all of the bolts and connections are removed and detached, take out the alternator.

4

Reverse the above steps to replace the alternator. Make sure all the bolts are fastened tightly. Ensure that all of the connections are complete and snug. A faulty or loose connection may cause a fire in addition to making the car not start.

5

Recharge the vehicles battery. The alternator does not act as an automatic battery recharger. If the battery was sucked dry by the bad alternator, battery damage may have occurred. If the battery does not work after being recharged, consider buying a new one. Recharging the battery will prevent further damage to the battery or to the new alternator.

Batteries in vehicles often fail to start an engine in cold weather. Each 10 degrees Fahrenheit robs the cranking ability of one- to two-tenths of a volt due to cold temperatures. A battery load tester conducts a test of the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) that the battery requires for starting an engine. Auto parts stores have battery load testers that will charge and test the battery for the minimal voltage on a battery to rule out battery replacement on a vehicle-starting problem.

Instructions

1

Place a flat screwdriver on the negative battery terminal. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise to loosen the terminal and pull it straight up to remove. Repeat this process to remove the positive battery terminal.

2

Pull the battery up and out of the vehicle by the center handle. Place the battery near the load tester on a flat surface at a distance the same length as the load tester cables.

3

Pinch the negative black tester cable and open it. Clamp it onto the negative battery terminal. Attach the positive red tester cable to the positive battery terminal in the same manner.

4

Put on safety glasses or goggles.

5

Turn the load control knob clockwise to 100 amps. Hold the knob in this position for 3 seconds and then slowly turn the knob counterclockwise until the needle reads zero for amperage.

6

Observe the voltmeter reading. If it is in the green area, proceed to load test the battery. If the voltmeter is in the red area, it needs charging before proceeding. Charge a battery in the red area until it reaches the green voltmeter area.

7

Turn the load control knob to one-half the CCA of the battery. The battery CCA is printed on the battery. For this example, we will us 700 CCA and turn the knob to 350. The load test will complete in 15 seconds.

8

Observe the voltage reading on the load tester. Compare the reading with the chart on the side of the tool. The battery temperature compensation chart shows the minimum voltage readings for a working battery at a specific temperature. Any reading under the minimum voltage reading indicates a battery that needs replacement.