Repair And Fix it

Antique auto body tools recount the early days of car manufacturing. Henry Ford, the great industrial giant, according to Eye Witness to History, was an example of early 20th-century entrepreneurs who made automobiles affordable for the average working person. The Ford Company established factories with assembly lines of workmen who manufactured cars on a daily basis. Many of the tools these early workers used to construct and repair automobiles are now modernized and remain in use today.

Deluxe Tool Box

The deluxe tool box was initially designed for the 1928 and 1929 Model A Ford, according to Snyders Antique Auto. This tool box mounted under the radiator, between the front fenders. The deluxe box is situated best when the radiator apron is removed. Its locking lid is ribbed and is curved identically to the shape of the fenders. This box was an accessory and when it was installed it would block the crank hole.

Basic Tool Kits

Basic Model A and Model T Ford auto body tools kits included an array of gadgets, many of which were modernized and still used today. Tire irons were usually unpainted and stretched 10 inches long for maximum gripping, according to Model T Restore. Oiling cans were common as were wheel jacks, air pumps and adjustable wrenches. Antique pliers often included a screwdriver blade attached at the bottom of the handle. The heads of pliers opened a maximum of 1 1/4 inches. All pliers were branded with the Ford insignia and remained unpainted.

Accessory Tools

Grease guns were plated with solid nickel and gasoline sticks were fashioned long and lean for easy measurements. Antique tire gauges were attached with iron hexagon bolts. Once tightened, air pressure would trigger the needle in a handheld gauge, which would display the reading. According to ValveLock, Balloon Standard Tire pressure gauges read pressures from 0 to 80 psi.

Painting a cars wheels is one way to give it a unique look. You might also want to match the car color, hide chrome that has seen better days, or restore wheels to their original condition. Painting your wheels can be done in a couple of days.

Instructions

1

Clean the wheels thoroughly. Use soap and water and scrub them, making sure to get into the crevices to remove debris. Use a hose to rinse off the wheels.

2

Sand your wheels to remove the current finish, and help primer stick to the wheel. If your wheels are made of chrome, sand them until you get below the surface of the chrome. 120- to 320-grit sandpaper works well. If your wheels are knicked, try to sand down below the knick or sand the knick out. Remove final debris with a 600-grit sandpaper.

3

Tape around the outside of the wheel by placing tape on the tire. Trace and cut a moon-shaped piece of cardboard that can be placed at an angle between the wheel and wheel well. The moon shape should be no thicker than a half-moon. It will block paint from the spray.

4

Lay the wheel on a flat surface. Wear a mask to avoid inhaling the paint. Spray two to three coats of primer on the wheel and allow time to dry. Sand it using 600-grit sandpaper.

5

Spray two to three coats of the paint that you choose. If you have an area you are not happy with due to paint chips or dripping, you can correct it with fine sandpaper and a rubbing compound to restore shine. Allow time to dry, at least 24 hours.

6

Apply a clear coat. Two applications should suffice. Let it dry overnight.

Often, if your vehicle will not start, the first thing to examine is the battery. Vehicles require a battery to not only start the car, but also to run the accessories such as the headlights and interior lights. While the car is running, the alternator charges the battery so that it can continue to function. If headlights or interior lights are left on for a prolonged period of time while the car is off, it could drain the battery. A dead battery can be recharged using another car or an automatic battery charger, which requires an electrical outlet.

Instructions

1

Add enough water to the battery cells so that the battery acid covers the internal plates. Refer to the documentation included with your battery or contact the battery manufacturer for specific instructions on adding water to the battery.

2

Ensure that the automatic battery charger is set to the "Off" position and that all accessories in the vehicle are switched to the "Off" position.

3

Clip the red connection to the positive terminal on the battery. The positive terminal is marked with a "+" sign and is typically red.

4

Clip the black connection to the frame of the vehicle or to the vehicles engine block.

5

Set the voltage and rate switches to the proper settings if the charger has this function. Look on the battery, or contact the battery manufacturer for the proper settings for your particular battery.

6

Plug the automatic battery charger into the grounded outlet, then turn the device to the "On" position. Allow the charger to charge the battery until the meter on the automatic battery charger shows that the battery is charged. Do not at any point touch the clips or the battery while the battery is charging. A chart containing the recommended charge times for specific types of batteries has been included in the References section.

7

Turn the automatic battery charger to the "Off" position once the battery is charged, then unplug the unit from the grounded electrical outlet.

8

Disconnect the charger from the battery and car and attempt to start the vehicle.

An auto body repair or restoration project can often come to a sudden halt if welding is required. Welding requires extensive specialist knowledge and expensive equipment that many enthusiasts might not have. There are also instances where auto body panels cannot be repaired by welding because of fire risks. This leaves car enthusiasts with little choice but to find an alternative method to execute the repair and there are some simple fabrication techniques that provide excellent results with the need for welding.

Instructions

1

Take a P80 sanding disc and place it onto the pad of a random orbital sander. Sand the damaged area thoroughly until a surface of bare metal has been exposed around the repair. Ensure that an additional two to three inches of additional exposed metal is sanded back beyond the area to be repaired. Paint edges should be feathered out to assist with the priming process at a later stage.

2

Mark a square two inches outside the damaged area with a metal scribe. Drill a half-inch hole into the middle of the square to allow access and use an air-fed nibbling tool to cut out the square, making sure that the guide stays just within the confines of the scribed line.

3

Take a panel flanging tool and create a flange around the cut area of the auto body panel. The flange needs to be deep so that the addition of a metal patch will produce a flush surface. Apply a light coating of zinc spray to all bare metal as a means of protecting against corrosion and while this is drying, find a suitable piece of scrap metal in the same gauge as the auto body panel and cut out a patch that will fit exactly into the flanged recess. Use a piece of cardboard to act as a template if required.

4

Lay the metal patch into the flanged hole and secure into place on the corners with masking tape. Take the drill and make a series of holes through the patch and the flanged area, making sure the patch stays in place. Two to three holes on each of the four edges of the square will be sufficient. The holes need to be big enough to accommodate the rivets you will be using in the next stage.

5

With the patch still held in place, insert rivets into the holes and activate the rivet gun so the metal patch is secured to the flanged recess. Complete all the way around the square until every hole has a rivet attached to keep the patch in place. Use a panel hammer to tap down any high spots and to ensure the heads of the rivets sit below the surface of the auto body panel.

6

Apply a coat of galvanized body fill over the repaired area. Leave the filler to dry then sand down with a flat block and P80 grit sanding paper. Several applications of body filler may be required before a completely flat surface is assured.

Urethane clear coats are applied to create a lasting shine and to provide protection for the base colors that lay underneath them. As with any solvent-based materials, safety guidelines always should be followed when urethane products are used.

Inhalation

Urethane clear coats contain harmful vapors. The product always should be used in a well-ventilated area or in closed conditions where extraction is available. Users should wear suitable air-fed respiratory equipment at all times.

Skin and Eyes

Contact with skin and eyes should be avoided at all times. Protective clothing, eye-wear and gloves always should be worn during handling. In the event of accidental spillage, urethane clear coats should be washed off with copious amounts of water and medical advice should be considered.

Consumption

Urethane clear coats should never be consumed internally. If accidental swallowing occurs, do not induce vomiting and seek medical advice immediately.

Usage

Always use urethane clear coats in accordance with manufacturer instructions and never use non-compliant solvents to help harden or thin the material. Users with respiratory problems should avoid contact with all urethane-based products.

Automotive rigerants are deemed air pollutants detrimental to the ozone layer that surrounds our planet. The ozone layer is thought to be vital to our existence. The release, discharge or venting of ozone-depleting gases is forbidden by law. Recovery and/or recycling of rigerant is also mandated by law. The methods used for this task are strictly enforced and all machinery and personnel must be certified by an approved provider. The certifications required vary by region or state.

Instructions

Recover Your Refrigerant

1




Allow the system internal pressures to stabilize by turning the A/C and car engine off. Open the hood and let the under-hood area cool to ambient temperature. Use a fan to speed the process, if necessary. Refrigerant pressure will lect ambient temperature. High temperature will keep system pressures at unsafe levels.

2

Connect the correct recovery machine for your rigerant to the system following the machine manufacturers instructions. The types of rigerants used in passenger vehicles are R134-a and R-12. They are not compatible and should never be combined in recovery apparatus, or in an A/C system. The manifold gauge set required to use some recovery machines must also be dedicated to the specific rigerant. Open the valve(s) of the service hose(s) according to machine instructions.

3

Activate the recovery process according to operation instructions for your recovery machine. Recovery will begin unless the recovery machine detects unsafe pressure levels. Continued cooling will be needed to reduce pressure in this event. The recovery process is accomplished in steps until the system is in a state of vacuum. The machine will cycle on and off until all trace vapors are removed and the system stays in a vacuum for a predetermined time. Completion of this process is sometimes indicated by a visual or audio signal from the recovery machine.

4

Close the valves on the service hoses and remove them from the car once evacuation is complete. The system is now safe to disassemble for repair. The recovered rigerant can be put back into the system from which it was removed, but any other use requires recycling. Recycling purifies the rigerant by removing foreign gases and liquids. Strict adherence to rules and regulations pertaining to automotive waste affords a safer and cleaner environment for all living things. Be responsible.

An auto shop contains safety hazards that range from tools to chemicals. Additionally, when power equipment is used in the shop, noise issues arise. Safety issues concern not only the materials and equipment inside the shop, but also the behavior of the workers, and also the automobile owners who may enter the shop. The Occupational Health & Safety Organization (OSHA) has standards that cover the health and safety issues facing auto body repair and finishing shops.

Employee Behavior

The work habits and behavior of the mechanics and other shop workers are paramount to shop safety. All workers should be thoroughly familiar with the shops safety rules. Employees should be trained on any equipment they use before they use it, and avoid using damaged or defective equipment. Common sense should always be used --- workers must avoid loose clothing, shun horseplay, and avoid smoking around flammable materials. Also, workers should not attempt any repair or lifting that is too dangerous or heavy for them to accomplish alone.

Hazardous Materials

Auto shops contain dangerous chemicals and materials, including oils, solvents, antifreeze, and gasoline. Flammable items should be stored in a safe area, such as a flammables storage room or a metal cabinet that is vented to the outside. Also, containers and cabinets should be correctly labeled with the contents they hold inside, and the specific hazards that the contents pose. The container lids should also be closed tightly. Material Safety Data Sheets must be available for all toxic chemicals in the shop.

Personal Protective Equipment

OSHA guidelines covering personal protective equipment maintain that reliable, required equipment must be available in the shop when workers need it. It must also be maintained in a sanitary condition. In an auto shop, this equipment includes an OSHA-approved mask, for respiratory protection; ear protection for when loud tools are being used; eye protection, for work underneath the vehicle or with automotive components that may endanger the sight; and gloves, to protect the hands when handling chemicals or automotive parts.

Shop Cleanliness

Daily, ongoing efforts should be routine to maintain the shop as a clean and safe work environment. Walkways should be kept clear of equipment and any equipments electrical cords. If there is an oil or grease spill, it should be immediately cleaned up. Also, the floor itself must be slip-resistant, composed of noncombustible material, and sealed. The shop lighting should be sufficient for mechanics to work comfortably, without strain.

Bore scopes are optical devices comprised of a length of fiber-optic cabling fed into a display screen or lens, allowing the user to feed the thin end of the fiber-optic cable into a difficult-to-reach, tight area, and project the image onto the screen of the device. These devices can be extremely convenient when attempting to open a locked car door. With the scope inserted into the crevice between the car door and window, you can easily identify the lock control components, making opening a locked door a simple task.

Instructions

1

Insert a plastic wedge -- available at a home-improvement store -- between the car window and door, creating a gap between them and allowing you to insert your bore scope into the door cavity.

2

Insert your bore, or fiber, scope and while looking at the display or through the lens, identify the lock control rod. This will be a rod that connects the internal lock control with the key control mounted on the rear of the keyed door lock cylinder in the car door.

3

Insert the Slim Jim unlocking device or wire coat hanger with a bend at the tip. While looking through the bore scope, place the Slim Jim or wire coat hanger hook over the lock control rod and either push down, pull up, or push it sideways to toggle it into the open position.

4

Remove the Slim Jim or coat hanger, bore scope and plastic wedge, and open the unlocked car door.

In 1966, the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act gave the Department of Transportations National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) authority over safety-related auto defect recalls. NHTSA is charged with investigating consumer complaints regarding auto defects and managing the recall process when defects pose safety hazards or when part of the vehicle doesnt comply with federal safety standards.

Recall Initiation

Many recalls are initiated voluntarily by the manufacturer, after the manufacturer discovers through its own testing or consumer complaints that a safety defect exists. Other times, recalls dont happen until the NHTSA gets involved to investigate. If a manufacturer does not recall the defective vehicles willingly, NHTSA may obtain a court order requiring that the manufacturer recall the affected vehicles.

Notification Letters

Whichever way a recall is initiated, the manufacturer must attempt to notify registered vehicle owners of the safety defect and offer to repair the problem at no charge. Recall notification letters must be sent by first-class mail and are required to describe the defect and the safety risk posed by the problem and describe the offer for free repair including when the remedy will be available and an approximation of how long repairs will take.

Examples of Safety-Related Auto Defects

Safety-related auto defects are ones that pose risk of injury to owners of many or all of a certain vehicle make, model or equipment design. Examples include steering component defects that could result in a driver losing control of the vehicle, sticky accelerator controls that could cause a crash and wiring system problems that could result in a fire.

When routine maintenance is needed or when car problems arise, three main options are available. The car can be taken to the dealership, an auto repair chain shop or an independent repair shop. Auto repair chain shops offer certain advantages over the other two options.

Reduced Cost

Auto chain shops in general offer lower prices for routine maintenance, such as oil changes, explained AutoMD President Shane Evangelist. Auto repair chains often offer specials or promotions for oil changes and other basic services. Because an auto repair chain has less overhead and lower labor pricing, it can afford to offer lower prices to its customers. Also, an auto repair chain generally uses aftermarket high-quality auto parts instead of dealership factory parts. Auto repair chains often publish coupons in flyers or over the Internet that offer additional discounts.

Reputation

Because they have a reputation to uphold, auto chain shops strive to provide quality service on the first visit. According to one auto repair chain, Cottman Transmission & Total Care, many auto chain facilities are registered with the BBB (Better Business Bureau) and many technicians are listed with the AAA-approved auto repair list. Like dealerships, most auto repair chains honor extended warranties on vehicles.

Various Locations

Because an auto repair chain has stores in several areas, the repair history of the vehicle will be saved in the chains computer system. This is convenient for customers who have moved to a new location or for those who for some reason need their vehicles fixed while out of town. Also, since a number of shops form part of the auto repair chain, more company resources can be shared for fixing car problems.

Knowledgeable Technicians

As many chains specialize in a certain aspects of auto repair, their technicians gain experience and efficiency in these specific fields. Unlike a dealership, they have knowledge of many different types of cars, not just one make or model. That being so, they can offer service for all the cars that a family owns. Dealerships also have to focus on selling cars, but auto repair chains are devoted exclusively to performing auto repair and maintenance.

Automotive air conditioning is considered a necessity for most people. Consequently, we have come a long way in revolutionizing the air conditioners in our cars. The latest upgrades to this useful invention include the ability to set a desired temperature and have the system adjust automatically. Automotive air conditioners may be of two types. The main difference between the two types lies in the device that lowers the refrigerant pressure. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Components

The main shared components of the two types of car air conditioning include the compressor, condenser, evaporator, orifice tube, thermal expansion valve, receiver-drier and accumulator. The orifice tube may be replaced by a thermal expansion valve, thus the two types of automotive air conditioning.

Process

The compressor pulls low-pressure refrigerant from the evaporator and compresses it into high-pressure refrigerant vapor that is moved to the condenser. During this process, the temperature of the refrigerant is increased. While the high-pressure refrigerant is in the condenser, it is cooled down by fans blowing across the condenser fins. The refrigerant is then collected by the receiver-drier, which is filtered and dried.

As a result of this process, liquid refrigerant builds up at the bottom of the receiver-drier, with the vapor at the top. The expansion valve then allows a certain amount of the liquid refrigerant to enter the evaporator. During its final stage, the refrigerant leaves the evaporator as a gas by absorbing the heat inside the car. As the warm air from inside the automobile is forced onto the evaporator fins, it is cooled by the refrigerant and released back to the cars interior. The moisture from the warm air after the cooling process is drained away.

Orifice Tube System

The orifice tube systems are commonly found in General Motors (GM) and Ford models. The orifice tube is located in the inlet tube of the evaporator or in the liquid line. The orifice tube is no longer than 3 inches. It is made up of small brass tubes surrounded by plastic, covered with a filter at each end.

Disadvantages of the orifice tube system include clogging caused by debris and high costs of repairing or replacing the tube. To avoid the clogging of debris in the orifice tube system, install a larger pre-filter in front of the orifice tube.

Expansion Valve System

The expansion valve system is generally used on after-market systems. This system is efficient at regulating refrigerant to the evaporator. It is located at the firewall, between the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes and the liquid and section lines. It may clog with debris. Additionally, the valve contains small moving parts that may stick together or malfunction because of corrosion.

Air compressors are used to power tools and inflate tires within an auto shop. Theyre also used in gas stations, homes and manufacturing plants. Air compressors are designed to use air that is stored under pressure to power tools, such as nail guns, sanders, drills and spray guns.

Types

Two different types of air compressors are used commonly to provide energy to tools, and they are the rotating impeller compressor and the positive-displacement compressor. Many businesses and mechanics use the positive-displacement compressors more so than the rotating impeller type.

Operation

Air compressors are powered by an electric or gas engine that uses a reciprocating piston (or small combustion motor) to generate pressure. They typically have one or two cylinders contained within the motor. Preset pressured air is held in a tank and then released when the motor powers a tool. Pressure is maintained within the tank from an automatic cycling process that turns the motor off and on at different intervals. This allows for tools to be connected and used right away as opposed to waiting for air pressure to build back up inside of the tank.

Considerations

Compressors also use a pressure switch that automatically stops the motor when the tank pressure reaches a certain preset limit, which varies by unit. Most tanks are designed with a safety valve that will release extra pressure when needed. Atmospheric pressure determines how air is released from the compressor and oil is important for lubricating the parts within a compressor. Each of these factors is important to the overall function of the air compressor.

An auto voltmeter is a device that monitors the condition of the alternator and the battery. The voltmeter measures and displays the voltage output of the alternator when the car is running, and the voltage output of the battery when the car is at rest. The cars battery should put out approximately 12 volts. If the voltmeter is showing less than 10 volts, the battery may need to be replaced. If the alternators output exceeds 16 volts, this could indicate a regulator failure, and should be fixed immediately to avoid damage to the electrical system.

Instructions

1

Mount the voltmeter to your cars dashboard. Use the screws and mounting brackets supplied with your voltmeter. The position of the voltmeter is unimportant, as long as you can mount everything securely and have enough wire if you are not mounting it into a space in the dash that has been set aside for a voltmeter.

2

Access the wiring harness underneath the dash. This is a bundle of wires that runs down the steering column and into a rectangular connector.

3

Unplug the wiring harness from the rectangular connector and use a multimeter to find a wire that has power when the key is off, but also does not drop power when the engine starts. To do this, touch the multimeters positive probe to the wire in the harness, and the negative lead to ground, and take note of the voltage measurement. Its best to use the accessory wire or the main power wire. The accessory wire is usually brown and the power wire is usually green or blue, though the colors vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

4

Cut the wire approximately four inches away from the connector, between the steering column and the connector. Use a pair of wire strippers to remove approximately an inch of insulation from both sides of the wire.

5

Attach the voltmeters negative lead to the power wire that is leading toward the steering column and attach the voltmeters positive wire to the power wire leading to the connector. Attach the negative lead of the voltmeter and the power wire to an electrical ground, such as the frame of the vehicle.

Because an auto starter is responsible for cranking your engine, failure of this part can leave you without transportation. Current draw, testing methods and other helpful tips can all be beneficial auto starter information.

Current Draw

The amount of current that a starter pulls varies depending on its type. A well working starter can draw up to 150 amps while cranking a vehicle with a four-cylinder engine. In bigger vehicles with V8 engines, starters can draw over 200 amps during cranking.

Testing

Using a battery, jumper cables, and a large sized bench vice to secure it, you can test a starter after removing it from the vehicle. By connecting the starter to the battery with jumper cables, you can study the speed at which the starters motor spins to determine if its spinning too slow and needs replacing.

Tips

Starters are often wrongly suspected to be the cause of engines that fail to start. To avoid purchasing a new starter when you dont need it, you should make certain other checks first, such as on the battery. Voltage tests on the battery will sometimes reveal that it is lacking the needed voltage to power up your starter.

An extended auto warranty is a service contract that allows a vehicle owner to be covered in case vehicle parts need to be repaired or replaced. Extended auto warranties are different from most basic auto warranties that come with a new vehicle -- extended warranties typically must be purchased separately, on top of the vehicle purchase price.

Benefits

A buyer who expects to own a vehicle for a long time may benefit the most from an extended auto warranty. Such warranties offer savings in the long term, especially if the vehicle needs several major repairs or many components must be replaced.

Coverage

Extended auto warranties vary in the extent of the coverage provided. Some extended warranties only cover parts that break, not parts that need repair because of general wear and tear. Some extended warranties do not cover problems with overheating -- if a vehicle overheats due to a faulty radiator, the extended warranty would not cover replacing the radiator.

Payment

Extended auto warranties vary in the way payments are made to the dealership that performs the repairs. Some warranties pay the dealership directly, while others require the vehicle owner to pay the cost of the repairs up front, then wait for a reimbursement from the warranty company.

Car alarms occasionally malfunction, annoying their owners and others in the vicinity. Its useful to know how to disable the alarm rather than to have to call and wait for a mechanic or alarm specialist.

Car alarm circuits vary but generally toggle switches that disconnect the alarms are installed on dashboards or nearby. Many alarms allow you to disable them with remotes. Malfunctioning alarms might just need new batteries. A broken wire also might be the culprit. If these are not solutions, then it is probably time to work manually on your car alarm.

Instructions

Disconnecting Your Alarm

1

Open the hood of your car. Find the line connected to your cars battery that runs to the alarm system. Disconnect it from the battery. It typically has a fuse attached close to the positive battery post. This will disable the alarm and allow you to work freely without the alarm sounding while you are trying to disconnect it.

2

Unplug all of the switches in the "brain box," which is typically black and installed under the dashboard near the steering wheel. All of the circuits are linked there, including the alarm wires and relays.

3

Unplug the two wires attached to the ignition system. These wires are under the steering column and run up to the back of the ignition switch. Be careful not to disconnect the actual ignition wires for the car; you are disabling only the wires that run from the brain box to the ignition. They generally are more fragile-looking than the stock wiring.