Repair And Fix it

The Suzuki Samurai, with its 1.3-liter engine, has a muffler with an integrated front and rear exhaust pipe section. The front runs from the head pipe or exhaust manifold to the muffler body and the rear from the body to the tailpipe just above the rear axle housing. Replacing the muffler requires you to remove several bolts at the front of the system and one exhaust clamp. The job can be completed in the driveway at home in about an hour with common hand tools.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Suzuki off the ground with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing to support the vehicle. Make sure the jack stands are on a flat, solid surface, then remove the jack from under the truck.

2

Locate the flange at the front of the muffler assembly from under the truck. Remove the two mounting bolts from the flange using a wrench on one side and a socket and ratchet on the other.

3

Move to the rear of the assembly and locate the connection between the tailpipe and the muffler assembly. Remove the nuts from the exhaust clamp on the pipe with a socket and ratchet. Remove the clamp from the exhaust pipe and discard it.

4

Separate the muffler assembly from the tailpipe, then remove the muffler from the rubber hangers under the truck. Lower the muffler to the ground and remove it from under the truck.

5

Raise a new muffler assembly into place and connect the two rubber hangers to the support pins on the muffler assembly. Raise the rear of the muffler assembly and slide the tailpipe and the rear connection of the muffler together. Install a new exhaust clamp on the connection and tighten the nuts with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the nuts or you will crush the pipe.

6

Position the flange at the front of the muffler assembly against the flange on the front exhaust pipe and install the two retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other.

7

Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands with a jack, remove the jack stands from under the truck, then lower it to the ground.

An automatic choke can be located on the carburetor of an engine, or it can be located a short distance from the carburetor and is called a "divorced" or "remote choke." The choke is important in the operation of a gasoline engine because it restricts the flow of air passing into an engine when the engine is cold; it could struggle to start with less gasoline flowing into the engine.

Automatic Choke

The automatic choke is an important part of a gasoline engine, working in tandem with the carburetor to restrict and increase the flow of air flowing into the engine. The automatic choke can be briefly described as a valve that closes to restrict the flow of air when the engine is cold. As the engine heats up, the automatic choke slowly opens the valve to allow more air to flow into the engine and reduce the amount of gasoline passing into the engine. The choke system of an engine, such as that for an automobile, is recognized as part of the transmission system.

Coil

In general, automatic chokes use a bimetallic coil to operate the choke plate valve system for increasing and reducing the amount of air passing into an engine. The bimetallic coil rotates when it is cold to close the choke plate and stop the passage of air that can mix with gasoline; this is to allow a larger amount of gasoline to arrive in the engine as required when the engine is cold. As the engine heats up, a vacuum forms that pulls the bimetallic coil back from the choke releasing the pressure and allowing more air to mix with the gasoline in the engine.

Types

Although the automatic choke system works in much the same way in integral and divorced systems, the remote automatic choke is housed in the engine manifold instead of attached to the carburetor. Remote automatic chokes use a separate choke pull off system, while integral systems use a tiny vacuum system linked to the throttle to operate a piston to open the automatic choke.

Rods

In repairing automatic choke systems the incorrect thickness of carburetor used can result in problems with the rods used to open and close a divorced system either not completely closing or opening the choke system. Where the automatic choke system is not working correctly, such as the vacuum passageway used by integral systems being clogged, the choke system may not allow the engine to start or operate effectively.

Hoists are powerful lifting devices capable of raising the engine of a car, for example. However, to actually function, a hoist needs to be placed on a frame. A sturdy hoist frame isnt too hard to build out of some existing materials. The process is similar to building a swing set, but with some modifications to allow the frame to support immense weights. A wooden frame is capable of carrying an engine block.

Instructions

1

Place the three 2-by-6 planks together, so they create a 6-by-6-inch beam. Glue the planks together. Clamp the beam down.

2

Use a drill bit marginally wider than the 7-inch bolts. Drill all the way through the beam, then push the bolt through and screw the nut into place. Repeat with the other 7-inch bolts, spacing them evenly along the beam.

3

Lay two 2-by-4 planks on top of one another to make a 4-by-4 beam. Screw the planks together with 3-inch wood screws, then flip the piece over and screw from the other side. Repeat three more times to make four legs total.

4

Arrange two legs to form the side of an A frame. The top-most corners of the planks should be about 6 inches apart, and the bottoms of the planks should be about 7 feet apart. Glue and clamp the beams together.

5

Place a 2-by-4 across the bottom of the A frame, so that it meets with both outer corners of the A frame. Trace the bottom of this piece of wood with a marker.

6

Cut off the bottoms of the wooden frame.

7

Cut the remaining 2-by-6 pieces into four 2-foot planks. Place one of the 2-foot pieces about 6 inches below the top of the A frame and screw it into place with the wood screws. You need at least three screws on each side of the A frame.

8

Place a 2-by-4 plank about a third of the way up your A frame. Line up the end of the 2-by-4 with the side of the A frame. Cut the excess beam off the end. Screw the beam into place.

9

Place the excess beam from the previous step on the A frame toward the bottom. Cut off any excess wood. Screw this into place.

10

Flip the A frame side over and attach a second set of cross beams. You need a 2-by-6 beam 6 inches from the top and two more 2-by-4 pieces along the side.

11

Repeat the previous steps to make a second A frame side.

12

Trace the end of the 6-inch beam onto a piece of cardboard. Cut out this template.

13

Align the template so that it rests on the top of the 2-by-6 plank. Trace the template.

14

Cut the excess wood to create a void inside the A frame where you will store the beam. Repeat the tracing and cutting with the other A frame.

15

Slide the end of the 6-inch beam into the slot atop the A frame. The two pieces should be at a 90-degree angle. Screw the beam into place. Repeat with the other end of the beam and the other A frame.

16

Hold a 2-by-4 plank at a 45-degree angle between the 6-inch beam and the middle 2-by-4 on the A frame. Screw this into place and trim off the excess.

17

Attach your hoist to the middle of the 6-inch beam.

The Honda Prelude is a sports coupe that Honda manufactured from 1978 to 2001. The 1998 model is available with several types four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engines, which have a single or double overhead camshaft. These engines use a timing belt to keep the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The timing belt has a limited lifetime and its repair consists of replacing the timing belt at periodic intervals.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the No. 1 cylinder to its top dead center position. Remove the covers for the valves and timing belt.

2

Fasten a bolt for the timing belt cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. This will hold the adjuster arm in place temporarily. Loosen the adjuster nut for the timing belt by one turn and push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to reduce the tension on the belt.

3

Hold the tensioner for the balancer in place and tighten its adjusting nut with a socket wrench. Remove the balancer belt from its pulleys and detach the sprocket for the balancer belt from the crankshaft.

4

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and push the tensioner to relieve the timing belt tension. Tighten the adjuster nut to hold the belt tensioner in place and remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulley.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing pointer with the timing mark on the flywheel. Turn the camshaft pulley clockwise until the word "UP" is on top of the pulley.

6

Install the timing belt onto its pulleys and belt tensioner. Loosen the locking bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt, then tighten it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the timing belt forward by three teeth to place tension on the timing belt.

7

Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt with a torque wrench, then tighten it to 33 foot-pounds. Tighten the locking bolt for the timing belt tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. Place the sprocket for the balancer belt on the crankshaft and turn the pulley for the balancer belt so that its timing mark aligns with the notch on the oil pump.

8

Install the balancer belt onto its pulleys, ensuring that its timing marks remain aligned. Loosen the adjusting nut for the balancer belt tensioner slowly to place tension on the balancer belt.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise one turn to align the timing marks on the timing belt and tighten the adjusting nut to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the bolt that is holding the timing belt tensioner in place. Install the covers for the timing belt and valves. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The VTEC-E is the single overhead-cam version of the Honda Civic VTEC engine, designed to increase fuel economy at low rpm. Only one of the two intake valves opens a very small amount at low rpm, increasing the fuel/air atomization in the cylinder, utilizing a leaner mixture. It is necessary for the technician to know if the Civic is equipped with a VTEC or a VTEC-E model engine when attempting to diagnose a problem. Identifying a VTEC-E requires little more than raising the hood and making a phone call.

Instructions

1

Pull the inside hood release, and lift the hood of the Honda Civic.

2

Find the engine model number engraving located toward the front of the engine just below the head gasket. Remove any grease or dirt that covers the engraving.

3

Read and record the engraving.

4

Contact the service department at a Honda dealer and ask a service representative to decode the engraved number to determine if the engine is a VETEC-E.

The Volkswagen Passat oxygen sensor controls the amount of fuel burned by the engine. If the oxygen sensor is failing, the car will run rich, burning extra fuel and decreasing your fuel mileage. Volkswagen secures the wiring for the oxygen sensor using cable ties to prevent damage to the electrical wires from the exhaust pipe. When an oxygen sensor fails, it must be replaced. Find a new sensor at an auto parts store or Volkswagen dealer.

Instructions

1

Raise the front end of your Volkswagen Passat and secure it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack when the jack stands are secure to provide room to work.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor between the manifold and the catalytic converter. The sensor will be protruding from the exhaust pipe with an electrical connection at the top. Pull the wiring harness free of the electrical connection.

3

Remove the cable ties on the harness, making note of where they go. You will need to replace the cable ties in the same locations to protect the wiring from exhaust damage.

4

Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe using an oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet. Replace the sensor with a new one. Thread the new sensor in by hand to start so you do not cross thread the sensor. Tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

5

Torque the oxygen sensor to 41 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Replace the cable ties on the wiring and reconnect the wiring harness to the electrical connection on the sensor.

7

Raise the car and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

You can retrieve the trouble codes on your 91 Honda Accord in home garage. The Accord comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer that stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle when they detect a malfunction. They also keep track of the vehicles regular servicing needs. When the computer receives a code, it illuminates a warning or service light on the instrument panel. You can use a small handheld computerized device called an OBD scan tool to retrieve the codes to diagnose what is wrong with your vehicle. Scan tools are available at auto-parts retailers.

Instructions

1

Find the trapezoidal-shaped data link connector (DLC) on the lower part of the drivers-side dash just left of the steering column. Plug the OBD scan tool into this DLC.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On/Off" position. Make sure you dont go past this point and crank the engine.

3

Follow the directions on the screen of the scan tool to read the codes. Write down the codes on a piece of paper.

4

Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle. Look up the codes in the scan tools manual.

Defining Rebuild

Having your engine rebuilt will cost between $1,100 and $3,000, depending on the size and type of engine. A rebuild restores every part to original manufacturers specifications, and may include parts of your current engine. This is different from an overhaul in that an overhaul only fixes things that are worn out. A rebuild essentially starts over and includes used parts.

Other Options

The engine is the most expensive piece of your automobile, so whatever you do, you will be spending a lot. "Crate" engines also are available, which are brand new engines. The cost usually is a little more, but you are getting all new parts and usually a longer warranty. The ultimate option of course, is to trade in your car for a new or different car.

Bottom Line

A lot depends on how attached you are to your automobile, and its overall condition. If there are other major issues, such as transmission or suspension problems, or body damage, you might be better off getting a new or different car.

Locating the thermostat on the engine in your 2002 Mitsubishi Galant is the first step in replacing it or removing it for testing. The thermostat is located inside the thermostat housing, so you will not be able to see the actual thermostat unless you remove the housing. Replacement thermostats are available at most auto-parts stores, but be sure to check the heat range required for your engine. Not all thermostats are the same and one with the wrong heat range will allow the engine to overheat, damaging it.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Galant and locate the radiator at the front of the car. You will see two hoses, upper and lower, coming out of the radiator.

2

Follow the upper radiator hose, starting at the end that connects to the radiator, down its length. The hose runs to the top of the engine but may run under or over other components along the way.

3

Locate the end of the hose, where it attaches to the engine. The housing it attaches to is the thermostat housing. The thermostat is located under this housing. To gain access to it, you have to remove the housing after first draining the cooling system. You will recognize the thermostat--it is metal and looks like a disk with a spring in the center. It is also the only thing under the housing.

Often, if your vehicle will not start, the first thing to examine is the battery. Vehicles require a battery to not only start the car, but also to run the accessories such as the headlights and interior lights. While the car is running, the alternator charges the battery so that it can continue to function. If headlights or interior lights are left on for a prolonged period of time while the car is off, it could drain the battery. A dead battery can be recharged using another car or an automatic battery charger, which requires an electrical outlet.

Instructions

1

Add enough water to the battery cells so that the battery acid covers the internal plates. Refer to the documentation included with your battery or contact the battery manufacturer for specific instructions on adding water to the battery.

2

Ensure that the automatic battery charger is set to the "Off" position and that all accessories in the vehicle are switched to the "Off" position.

3

Clip the red connection to the positive terminal on the battery. The positive terminal is marked with a "+" sign and is typically red.

4

Clip the black connection to the frame of the vehicle or to the vehicles engine block.

5

Set the voltage and rate switches to the proper settings if the charger has this function. Look on the battery, or contact the battery manufacturer for the proper settings for your particular battery.

6

Plug the automatic battery charger into the grounded outlet, then turn the device to the "On" position. Allow the charger to charge the battery until the meter on the automatic battery charger shows that the battery is charged. Do not at any point touch the clips or the battery while the battery is charging. A chart containing the recommended charge times for specific types of batteries has been included in the References section.

7

Turn the automatic battery charger to the "Off" position once the battery is charged, then unplug the unit from the grounded electrical outlet.

8

Disconnect the charger from the battery and car and attempt to start the vehicle.

Exhaust manifold leaks are obvious, especially when first starting the engine. As the engine warms, the metal of the manifold and engine block expand and quiet the leak. Manifold leaks can vary in sound from a loud exhaust leak to a subtle ticking sound -- often misdiagnosed as a faulty lifter in the valves. In some cases, testing the manifold can require lifting the vehicle. Manifold to block connections can be tested from the engine compartment or under the vehicle. The use of a stethoscope will undeniably pinpoint a leak and its location.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and apply the parking brake. Open the hood (even if the vehicle is being lifted to test the manifold, the open hood will offer more lighting to see better underneath the vehicle). If there is no need to lift the vehicle to test the manifold to block connection, proceed to Step 4.

2

Place a wheel chock against the outer tread of one of the rear tires for extra protection (if lifting the vehicle).

3

Hoist the front of the vehicle up with a jack and place it onto jack stands (one side at a time).

4

Put on the safety glasses and gloves and then start the engine.

5

Put the stethoscope on (and crawl under the hoisted vehicle, if applicable) and run the tip of the stethoscope along the manifold to engine block connection. Be aware of moving engine parts and loose fitting clothes; especially if testing from the engine compartment area. Also be aware that it will not take long for the front exhaust system to get extremely hot. Be sure arms and hands are well covered and protected.

6

Check the manifold to engine block connection thoroughly. The moment the tip of the stethoscope gets near a leak, the sound will intensify greatly. Check for leaks in other locations along the manifold to block connection and even check the front exhaust pipe to manifold connection.

Chevrolet introduced the Malibu as the top-of-the-line trim of the Chevelle in 1964, and in 1978 Chevy dropped the Chevelle and replaced the entire line with the Malibu. The 1999 Malibu came in base and LS trims with three different engines. As is often the case, the timing specs, such as the spark-plug gap and firing order, vary not only from year to year but also from trim to trim of the Malibu. So, it is extremely important to make certain that the specs are specific to the make, model, model year, trim and engine size. However, certain aspects of the 1999 Malibus timing are not adjustable at all because they are controlled by the vehicles computer system.

The 2.4-liter, 150-horsepower Engine

The base trim of the 1999 Malibu came standard with a 2.4-liter, 150-horsepower in-line four-cylinder engine. The spark-plug gap for this engine was 0.50 inches. The firing order was 1-3-4-2. The ignition timing was not adjustable, regardless of the transmission, because the timing was dictated by the Power Control Module (PCM).

3.1-liter, 150-horsepower V-6 Engine

A 3.1-liter, 150-horsepower V-6 engine was standard in the LS trim and optional for the Base trim. The spark-plug gap was 0.60 inches, and the firing order was 1-2-3-4-5-6. The ignition timing and the mark were controlled by the PCM and a crankshaft position sensor. The only way to actually adjust the timing would be to replace these parts.

3.1-liter, 170-horsepower V6 Engine

The 3.1-liter, 170-horsepower V-6 engine was optional in both the base and LS trims of the 1999 Chevy Malibu. The spark-plug gap was 0.60 inches and the firing order was 1-2-3-4-5-6. Like the other two 1999 Malibu engines, the ignition timing was not adjustable because it was controlled by the PCM and a crankshaft position sensor.

If your air conditioning malfunctions in your 1999 Lexus LS400, prompt servicing is the best way to protect your Lexus investment. Any automotive mechanic can recharge your air conditioner, but damage to your air conditioning system requires Lexus service technicians, certified by the Lexus Commitment to Excellence program, if you want your warranty to stand. Mechanical or electrical air conditioning problems may mean replacing the entire system, the compressor, condenser, accumulator, evaporator, blower motor, control unit, fan and clutch.

Compressor Specifications

The Lexus Part Store sells new and urbished used air conditioner compressors for the 1999 Lexus LS400. The remanufactured compressors come with a core charge. The LS400 compressor has six grooves, a 1.65-inch line, a mount manifold, a tangent mount, a 4.5-inch pulley, a speed sensor switch and a clutch. The urbished compressor carries a two-year or 24,000-mile warranty. The new compressor cost $442 in 2010 and is under warranty for one year. The urbished compressor cost $395 in 2010. A core charge of $61 in 2010 was imposed on top of the part cost; the core charge is unded to the purchaser upon receipt of the old compressor.

Condenser Function

The condenser collects filth and oil from the compressor. Refrigerant may carry this filth through the condenser to the expansion valve, clogging the valve or tube. If oil cannot flow through the condenser, the compressor cannot receive oil, and the compressor will lack lubrication. If the condenser is dirty, it may be necessary to replace it. Flushing the compressor definitely moves sludge through the system. The sludge may form a blockage or damage the compressor. If you damage your air conditioner by flushing it, your warranty will be void, at least for the air conditioner.

Condenser Specifications

The Lexus Parts Store website lists two condensers for a 1999 Lexus LS400. A new first-class condenser with a clutch, manufactured from high-quality materials for extended reliability, cost $235 in 2010. A limited 1-year warranty covers manufacturers defects in the compressor. A second aluminum parallel flow condenser cost $139 in 2010. It is guaranteed to fit without leaking. Both condensers reduce noise and vibration. A chrome-plated compressor gasket or trim ring fits most cars and trucks with 7-inch radial compressors. The gasket costs $29 from the Lexus Parts Store in 2010 and comes with a 90-day warranty.

The 2002 Lexus LS430 came with a 4.3 liter V-8 engine that produced 290 horsepower at 5,600 r.p.m. The fuel economy EPA highway mileage on the 2002 LS430 was 23 m.p.g. and 16 m.p.g. city mileage. The 4.3 liter engine is capable of creating 320 foot-pounds of torque. Checking the coolant on your 4.3 liter LS430 will keep the engine cooled to its proper level and maintain the life of the engine.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your LS430. Stand in the front of the vehicle facing the radiator.

2

Place your hand on the radiator cap momentarily to see if it is hot to the touch. If the radiator cap is hot, do not open it or attempt to break the seal to depressurize the radiator.

3

Remove the radiator cap once you have verified that the engine is cool, or the car has sat without running for over one hour.

4

Visually inspect the fill hole at the top of the radiator. If you can see the metal fins inside the radiator, and you dont see any coolant, then you need to add some.

A bumper jack raises a vehicle in either the front or rear to gain access to the parts underneath for repairs. An air bumper jack is a bottle design that uses air pressure to raise and lower the jack. In the manual mode, you pump the handle up and down to add air pressure inside the jack and extend the saddle upwards to raise it. An air compressor connects to the bottle jack to use for raising the jack automatically instead of pumping the handle up and down.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the emergency brake. Place a wheel chock or brick in front of each front wheel if you are jacking the back up. Place a wheel chock or brick behind each rear wheel if you are jacking up the front of a vehicle.

2

Insert one of the two handle pieces that are smooth on both ends into the other. Press the spring pin in one, insert the other and align the pin with the hole in the second piece. The pin will pop out and hold it in position in the hole in the handle. Attach the third handle piece to the bottom of the first two pieces in the same manner. The bottom handle piece has a U-shaped fitting on the bottom end.

3

Insert the bottom of the handle into the release valve on the bottom of the air bottle jack. Turn the handle clockwise as far as it will turn to close the release valve.

4

Turn on an air compressor and let it power up until it cycles off. Attach the air compressor hose to the air compressor by pulling the quick connector ring back, inserting it onto the fitting and releasing the quick connector. Attach the other end of the air compressor hose on the air control valve on the front side of the bottle jack in the same manner.

5

Push the bottle jack with the handle to position it under the vehicle bumper where it attached to the frame while allowing access to the air control valve. The air control valve is above the air compressor hose fitting on the jack. Place a piece of wood or two-by-four board on the round saddle of the bottle jack top.

6

Grasp and squeeze the air control valve to add air to the jack and raise the saddle under the vehicle. Release the air control valve when the vehicle is high enough off the ground.

7

Place a jack stand under the vehicle to support it. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise in the release valve slowly to lower the jack. Pull the jack out from under the vehicle.

Pontiac has always been GMs excitement division, and its V-8 production strategy was one reason its stayed that way for so long. Unlike many other divisions that had large- and small-block engine families, Pontiac had only one engine that spanned from 265 all the way up to 455 cubic inches. Smaller-displacement engines like the 350 were oft-overlooked cult classics, mostly because of serious junkyard upgrades in the form of higher flowing heads, intakes and cam packages for the 428 and 455.

Rotation Direction

Most V-8 and V-6 engines use common-journal crankshafts, meaning that the connecting rods from two opposing cylinders ride on one arm of the crankshaft. Such is the case here: Pistons 1 and 2 share a crankshaft arm, as do 3 and 4, 5 and 6, and 7 and 8. Knowing this, and the fact that the even numbers are on the passenger side of the block, you can figure out the direction of rotation from the engines firing order.

The Pontiacs firing order is 2-1-8-4-3-6-5-7. Notice that in this order, you have a couple of pairs: 2-1 and 6-5. Since you know that those cylinders share a common arm, you can deduce that the crankshaft hits the passenger side first, and then the driver side. Theore, the crankshaft rotation is clockwise when looking at the engine from the front, counterclockwise when looking at it from the rear. Inside the distributor, the rotor spins counterclockwise.

Mechanics begin by their careers by learning basic car repairs and routine maintenance. Changing tires, changing oil and completing tuneups are typically the first tasks they take on. A mechanic is expected to have his own set of tools. Start your automotive mechanic tool collection with the basics.

Wrenches

Wrenches are needed for almost all types of car repairs and maintenance. You should have a set of box wrenches, a set of socket wrenches in both fractional and metric measurements and an oil filter wrench.

Car Jack

You will need a car jack, jack stands or a set of ramps for changing tires, working on mufflers, changing brakes or any repair that requires access to the underside of a vehicle. Always make sure that the vehicle is secure before you begin any repairs.

Screwdrivers

A mechanic should have a complete set of Phillips and flat head screwdrivers in various sizes. Screwdrivers are used to remove parts of a vehicle when completing a repair.

Vice Grips

Vice grips can be used to loosen, tighten and remove vehicle parts. A mechanic should have a pair with a flat head and a pair with a curved head.

The 2005 Honda Pilot comes with special keys that include a built-in key fob for remotely locking and unlocking the vehicle. To work properly, each key fob has to be programmed to match a unique vehicle. The key part must be custom cut by a locksmith or dealer as the cutting is not the same as older Hondas and cant be cut by a traditional key-cutting machine. Blank Pilot keys are available through dealers or some auto parts suppliers.

Instructions

Replacing the Key Through a Dealership

1

Contact a Honda dealership parts department and ask for a replacement key.

2

Provide to the dealership the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and proof of ownership. The dealership will cut and program the replacement key to work with your vehicle.

3

Test the new key and fob to make sure it works properly with your Pilot.

Replacing the Key Through an Auto Parts Supplier

4

Purchase a replacement key from a parts supplier. Make sure the supplier provides programming instructions with the key in case the key has any nonstandard programming steps. If they do not, check the programming link in the article resources for instructions. The instructions are for a 2008 Pilot, but they should work for most Honda-compatible key fobs.

5

Follow the directions provided with the key. The directions will vary based on the key manufacturer. The directions will only be for programming the fob; the key will still need to be cut. Test the fob after programming to make sure it works with the Pilot.

6

Take the key to an automotive locksmith that provides Honda key cutting or to a Honda dealership. Provide the VIN so the key can be cut to work with your Pilot. The key is cut based on the VIN. Locksmiths usually charge a lower fee than dealerships to stay competitive.

The distributor cap is the cover that protects the distributor and provides a spot for each spark plug wire coming from each spark plug in the cylinders. The distributor spins underneath the cap, sending a bolt of electricity to each point on the distributor cap. The electricity then travels through the wires to the spark plugs. In the 1991 Accord, the distributor is a round shape and has four spots for spark plug wires, since it came with a standard four-cylinder engine.

Instructions

1

Prepare the old distributor cap for removal by unplugging the 2-P and 8-P connectors connected to it. Unplug the two hoses going to the advance diaphragm if your Honda Accord uses a carburetor instead of fuel injection. Loosen the three hold-down bolts on the distributor cap, leaving the spark plug wires plugged into it.

2

Coat the O-ring from the new distributor cap with motor oil using your finger. This is done so that the ring goes in smoothly and doesnt tear from friction.

3

Take the old distributor cap off of the cylinder head, and slide the new distributor cap on in its place. Make sure that the three hold-down bolts are lined up with their respective holes.

4

Unplug the spark plug wires from the old distributor cap, and plug them into the new distributor cap using the same position. If your wires are already unplugged, plug the wire coming from cylinder 1 into the spot marked with an "A" on the distributor cap. From there, proceed clockwise plugging in the wires from cylinders 3, 4, and 2 in that order.

5

Tighten the hold-down bolts, and reconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors to the distributor cap. Make sure the two vacuum hoses going to the advance diaphragm are also plugged in to complete the installation. If you need to, you can test and adjust the timing of the motor before tightening the hold-down bolts on the distributor cap.

Fords manufactured before 1996 come equipped with a first-generation On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD-I) that retrieves and stores all error codes sent to it from various sensors throughout the vehicle. When these sensors detect a malfunction, they send the trouble code to the Fords computer, which turns on the vehicles warning and service lights. You can pull these codes right at home using a small device known as an OBD-I code reader, which you can purchase at any auto-parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagnostic port on the drivers-side dash near the steering column. The port will be the same size and shape as the connector end of the OBD-I code reader.

2

Plug the code reader into the port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, but dont crank the engine.

4

Wait for the code reader to power on. Some readers have to be turned on, so you may have to find the "on/off" switch.

5

Select the command on the reader that says "Retrieve Codes" or something similar (the command will vary by brand). Wait while the code reader interfaces with the vehicles computer, then write the codes down on a piece of paper.

6

Look up the codes in the scanner manual. Unplug the reader and have the vehicle serviced or repaired based on the diagnosis obtained from the codes you retrieved.