Repair And Fix it

The Suzuki Samurai, with its 1.3-liter engine, has a muffler with an integrated front and rear exhaust pipe section. The front runs from the head pipe or exhaust manifold to the muffler body and the rear from the body to the tailpipe just above the rear axle housing. Replacing the muffler requires you to remove several bolts at the front of the system and one exhaust clamp. The job can be completed in the driveway at home in about an hour with common hand tools.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Suzuki off the ground with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing to support the vehicle. Make sure the jack stands are on a flat, solid surface, then remove the jack from under the truck.

2

Locate the flange at the front of the muffler assembly from under the truck. Remove the two mounting bolts from the flange using a wrench on one side and a socket and ratchet on the other.

3

Move to the rear of the assembly and locate the connection between the tailpipe and the muffler assembly. Remove the nuts from the exhaust clamp on the pipe with a socket and ratchet. Remove the clamp from the exhaust pipe and discard it.

4

Separate the muffler assembly from the tailpipe, then remove the muffler from the rubber hangers under the truck. Lower the muffler to the ground and remove it from under the truck.

5

Raise a new muffler assembly into place and connect the two rubber hangers to the support pins on the muffler assembly. Raise the rear of the muffler assembly and slide the tailpipe and the rear connection of the muffler together. Install a new exhaust clamp on the connection and tighten the nuts with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the nuts or you will crush the pipe.

6

Position the flange at the front of the muffler assembly against the flange on the front exhaust pipe and install the two retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other.

7

Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands with a jack, remove the jack stands from under the truck, then lower it to the ground.

A car dolly, or tow dolly, is used to move a vehicle from one place to another when driving it is not an option. The immobile car is driven or pushed up ramps onto the carriage and strapped down with safety straps. A fixed cradle dolly takes corners differently than a swivel cradle dolly since there is no pivot point on the dolly. Care should be used while towing the dolly around corners.

Instructions

Axle Preparation

1

Measure the length of the axle between the leaf spring mounts. Cut the axle at the center of this distance with a metal cutter.

2

Measure the inside diameter of the axle tube to determine the required outside diameter of the sprinkler pipe. Slide the sprinkler pipe into the axle tube so that 6 inches of sprinkler pipe is inside the axle on each side.

3

Weld both joints of the axle and sprinkler pipe using the welder.

The Cradle

4

Cut two 80-inch and two 23-inch pieces of angle steel. Weld the angle steel into a rectangle.

5

Weld a piece of angle steel 18 inches from each of the shorter sides to create two boxes on either end of the cradle.

6

Into each of the boxes you just created, weld two pieces of angle steel that run parallel to the longer side of the rectangle. The new pieces of steel should be 6 inches from the outside edges.

7

Tack weld the cradle onto the axle between the tires to make sure it is square. The center of the cradle should be at the center of the tire. Fully weld the cradle in place. The axle will be offset from center. The front of the dolly is the side with the offset.

The Tongue

8

Cut a 4-foot piece of box tubing. Under the center of the cradle, tack weld this piece of box tubing to the cradle and to the bottom of the axle. Make sure that the tongue is centered and completely welded at the cradle and axle.

9

Cut two more pieces of box steel, each 12 inches long. Place one piece on top of the other piece and slide it forward 6 inches. Weld together.

10

Weld this piece onto the 4-foot piece of tubing already on the dolly, overlapping the pieces by at least 6 inches.

11

Cut another piece of box tubing two feet long. Weld this piece onto the top 12-inch piece of box steel, leaving six inches overlapping. Weld the trailer coupler onto the end of the tongue.

12

Cut two 27-inch pieces of box tubing. Angle them between the tongue and the cradle and weld into place.

Finishing the Dolly

13

Cut the 8-foot plank in half to form two 4-foot pieces. Cut two 12-inch pieces of angle steel.

14

Attach one piece of angle steel to one end of each plank to form the ramps for the dolly.

15

Attach one fender to each side of the cradle of the dolly using the hardware and instructions provided with the fenders.

16

Mount and wire the trailer lights according to the instructions provided with the lights.

The Chevy Tahoe was introduced in 1995, and it is a relative to the Yukon--the GMC version of the SUV. The Tahoe basically replaced the full-sized Chevy Blazer. Available since 1996 with V8 engines, the Tahoe features four O2 sensors (also known as oxygen sensors). There are two of these sensors located in front of the catalytic converter, and they are designed to monitor the fuel and air ratio mixture in the exhaust. Two more sensors are located near each converter, and serve to monitor their efficiency. One or more of these sensors can become defective and will need replacement.

Locating the Faulty Sensor

When an oxygen sensor fails, the "Service Engine Soon" light will illuminate on the dash. Take your Tahoe to an auto parts store to get the on-board computer scanned. Auto parts stores will perform this service for free, and they can help you determine which sensor(s) have failed. Since there are four sensors on most Tahoes, the scanner will be able to detect which one by reading the "check engine" codes: Bank 1, sensor 1 is the upstream sensor on the cylinder 1 side of the exhaust system; bank 1, sensor 2 is the downstream sensor on the cylinder 1 side; bank 2 sensor 1 is the upstream sensor on the opposite side of cylinder 1; and bank 2, sensor 2 is the downstream sensor on the same side.

Purchase direct-fit sensor(s). Direct-fit sensors integrate the plug-in outlet, therefore no rewiring is required. These sensors cost slightly more than universal sensors. Also, universal sensors require eliminating the male and female plug counterparts from the wire harness. Direct-fit sensors, however, do not require any wire splicing--they simply plug in to the existing wire harness connection.

Replacing the Sensor

Warm the engine up for a couple of minutes before you attempt to replace the sensor. This will expand the metal and make removing the sensor much easier. While the engine is running, spray a large amount of lubricant along the threaded joint of the faulty sensor(s) and allow it to soak in.

Disconnect the wire harness outlet from the sensor. The wire from the sensor runs about seven to eight inches from the sensor, and it is retained by a plastic clip, to prevent it from contacting the hot exhaust system.

Use a 22-mm combination hand wrench or an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet to remove the sensor. If using a wrench, insert the disconnect sensor wire through the box-end side of the combination wrench. If using an O2 sensor socket, insert the wire into the slot on the side of the socket. Turn the sensor counter-clockwise until it is loose. The sensors only have four to five threads, so it wont take much to loosen them enough to be removed by hand.

Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the threaded section of the new sensor. Most direct-fit quality replacement sensors may already have a light coat on the threads. Be sure, if you have to add some on, that you do not get any on the thimble-shaped sensor--only a very light coat on the threads.

Thread the sensor into the port by hand at first, so that you dont cross-thread it. Tighten the sensor snugly with the wrench or socket and ratchet, but be careful not to over-tighten it. Since it only has four to five threads, sensors are very easily stripped out by over-tightening.

Plug the wire harness connection back together and re-secure the wire to the plastic retaining clip.

Resetting the Check Engine Light

Bring the Tahoe back to the parts store that sold you the O2 sensor(s) and scanned the trouble code for you. They will usually offer to reset the "Service Engine Soon" light for you. However, once the sensor(s) have been replaced, the computer will detect the new component and begin running through an inspection and maintenance (IM) self-diagnostic mode. This may take a few driving cycles to perform, as the engine needs to heat up and cool down repeatedly. Once the IM monitors have completed the self-diagnostic and detected that the new replacement sensor is performing its intended task, the on-board computer will turn off the "Service Engine Soon" light.

The fender vent on any vehicle is simply cosmetic. Mechanically, these vents do not serve a purpose on your vehicle. If you would like to install a new fender vent, you can do it with little hassle and minimal knowledge of the automobile. If you do remove the fender vent and do not replace it, you will leave holes in the fender and the vehicle will look like it is missing something. Since this is a stick-on piece, you have a limited time frame and getting it level before the adhesive becomes hard.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in a well lit area so the back fender is getting enough light. Turn off the automobile so there is no chance of it moving while you are working on it.

2

Use a plastic wedge to get between the fender and the edge of the vent. If you use a flathead screwdriver, you could scratch the paint.

3

Edge your way around the vent until you loosen it from the adhesive. Pull the vent off of the fender.

4

Add the adhesive to the new fender vent. Make sure that you are not using too much adhesive as it will come out the sides of the vent and adhere to the fender creating a mess.

5

Apply the vent to the fender in the same position as your last vent. Back up after the vent has been installed. Correct any crookedness to the vent, if needed.

6

Use a rag to wipe up any excess adhesive coming off of the vent.

Utility trailers are simple vehicles for light hauling and need little maintenance. Still, they do have some items that need to be checked and serviced regularly. The tires should be checked for air pressure and for damage before each trip. Also, the wheel bearings need to be serviced at least once a year. The wheel bearings on utility trailers are separate from the hub and can be serviced and replaced separately. This can be done with basic tools in a couple of hours on a two-axle trailer.

Instructions

Removal

1

Raise the trailer with a jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the center dust cap from the hub with a screwdriver. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut inside the cap with a pair of pliers.

2

Grasp the wheel from the top and bottom and pull out. The outer bearing will pop out. Remove it and set it aside. Set the wheel on the ground face up.

3

Tap out the inner bearing and seal with a non-metallic object to prevent damage to the bearing races. A block of wood works great for this. Set the inner bearing aside, keeping it separate from the outer bearing.

Cleaning, Inspection and Installation

4

Spray shop solvent on both bearings and inside of the hub. Wipe away all of the grease with a shop rag. Inspect both bearings and their contact surface. They should be free of pits and roll smoothly. If not, replace them.

5

Place a lump of grease in the palm of your hand and work the inner and outer bearing into the grease, forcing it thoroughly inside all of the rollers.

6

Insert the inner bearing into the hub. Tap in a new grease seal with the hammer and block of wood to prevent damage. Place the wheel and hub onto the spindle of the trailer. Place the outer bearing onto the spindle, pushing it inside the hub. Replace the washer and castle nut.

7

Tighten the castle nut firmly as you spin the wheel then back off the castle nut by 1/8 of a turn. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the castle nut. Replace the dust cover. Repeat for the other wheels on the trailer.