Repair And Fix it

Rod bearings or connecting rods connect the pistons to the crankshaft and must be strong to withstand the internal forces from pistons directional changes as well as transmit the piston thrust to the crankshaft. Rod bearings are mainly made of aluminum for smaller engines and forged steel. The upper end of the rod bearing is connected by a piston pin to the piston and the lower end of the rod is split so that it is clamped around the crankshaft in a certain style.

I-Beam

I-beam are the most common styles of rod bearing connection and are used for performance builds and stock applications. These rods are characterized by a large flat area perpendicular to the side beams. The rod side beams are parallel to holes found in the crank journal and piston pins, providing an excellent combination of compressive and tensile strength as well as light weight. I-beam rods handle high rpm tension although they might bend or fail when exposed to high compressive forces. I-beams can be made wider or thicker so that they can handle large horsepower loads.

Oval Beams

Oval beams are also erred to as parabolic or radial beams and are a variation of the basic I-beam. They are created by leaving a rounded region next to the two beams, thus increasing the rigidity and strength. This scalloped effect created by the rounded area is aimed at improving the performance of rod bearings and minimizing bending or failure of rod bearings.

H-Beams

H-beam rods are made of two big flat-sided beams lying at a 90 degree angle to the crankshaft journal bores and the piston pin. Lateral stiffness is provided by the center region linking the two sides of the H jointly. In comparison with the I-beam, this design weighs less and has superior compressive power. H-beam style is recommended for applications with high torques generating huge amounts of power below 6,000 rpm.

Implications

Rod bearings are specifically engineered to meet particular requirements that take into consideration the amount of load produced by the engine. For example, passenger cars are not frequently full-loaded and might require different rod bearings from applications with heavier loads, such as marine or heavy duty trucks. Also take into consideration that putting more load on the bearing makes it difficult to maintain the oil film connecting the bearing and shaft, reducing the longevity of the rod bearings.

Expansion ball bearings lie within the drive train of your motor vehicle. The drive train allows for a connection between the transmission of the vehicle and the drive axles. Expansion ball bearings help the system run smoothly by reducing friction. When installing new expansion ball bearings, you should always first consult your cars owners manual. While some systems do differ, the process for installing expansion ball bearings in one drive train or another is quite similar.

Instructions

1

Find an access point behind the drive train. This position makes it easier to install the expansion ball bearings. Use a screwdriver to remove the shield that protects the drive train.

2

Roll the expansion ball bearing into place on the grooves. Locate the grooves between the O-shaped races. The ball bearing sits between the smaller "O" and the bigger "O."

3

Press gently against the expansion ball bearing with your fingers to hold it in place. Do not use a tool. If finger pressure is not enough to hold the ball bearing still, you might have an obstruction, such as a shaft end. If this occurs, remove the shaft end and reapply the expansion ball bearing.

4

Screw the shield back into place to protect the expansion ball bearing.

The 1999 Ford Expedition is built on an F150 platform. The Expedition uses a 9.75-inch rear axle. The axles are retained with C-clips at the end of the axle shaft, inside the differential carrier. The axle bearings are of the roller type. A failed axle bearing can manifest itself as a noise at the rear wheel or gear oil leaking past the oil seal. When replacing axle bearings, the oil seals must also be replaced.

Instructions

1

Park the Expedition on a flat, paved surface, and do not set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, then raise the rear of the Expedition with a jack, and support it with jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and rear wheels.

2

Remove the rear brake drums. For disc brakes, use a ratchet and socket to remove the lower caliper mounting bolt and loosen the upper bolt. Pivot the caliper up and away from the rotor. Remove the rotor.

3

Position a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts that hold on the carrier cover with a ratchet and socket. Catch the gear oil in the drain pan. Remove the old cover gasket, and use a gasket scraper to remove any material from the cover and the differential housing. Wipe both surfaces with a shop rag.

4

Examine the carrier assembly inside the housing, and youll see the large vertically mounted ring gear. Next to the ring gear, running through the carrier housing, you will see the pinion shaft. Rotate the carrier assembly until youre looking at the end of the shaft. It runs through holes in both sides of the carrier assembly. To the right of the shaft is a small bolt that screws into the carrier assembly and engages the end of the shaft. Place a large screwdriver between the differential housing and one of the bolts that holds the ring gear onto the carrier assembly. This is to prevent the carrier from turning when you remove the small bolt. Remove the bolt with a ratchet and socket.

5

Rotate the carrier assembly 180 degrees until youre looking at the hole on the other side of the carrier assembly that holds the pinion shaft. Slide the shaft out of the carrier assembly in this direction. Pull the shaft out until the stepped part of the shaft contacts the ring gear.

6

Push the outer end of the axle in toward the center of the differential housing. Move back under the Expedition; you will be able to see the end of the axle shaft. The axle shaft has a C-clip in a groove on the end of the axle. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully remove the clip. Remove the C-clip for the other axle in the same manner. Do not rotate the differential while the pinion shaft is pulled out. Slide the axles out of the end of the axle tubes.

7

Attach an axle bearing puller to a slide hammer. Insert the bearing puller through the center of the bearing. Using the slide hammer, extract the bearing and oil seal. Repeat for the other bearing and oil seal. Clean the end of the axle tube with a shop rag. Note that there is a small step inside the axle tube that the axle bearing seats against.

8

Tap the new bearing into the axle tube with a hammer and a socket the same size as the outside of the bearing. Seat the bearing against the step in the axle tube. Coat the rubber lip of the oil seal with gear oil. Use the same socket to tap the oil seal into the axle tube. Make sure the seal is flush with the end of the tube. Repeat for the other bearing and seal. Slide the axle into the axle tube far enough so you can reinstall the C-clip. After you install the clip, pull out on the axle to seat the clip in the recess in the small spider gear. Repeat for the other axle.

9

Push the pinion shaft back through the carrier. Put a couple of drops of non-hardening thread sealer on the pinion shaft bolt, and reinstall the bolt. Torque the bolt to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

10

Coat the gasket mounting surface on the differential cover and the gasket mounting surface on the differential housing with gasket sealer. Coat one side of a new differential cover gasket with gasket sealer and press the gasket onto the differential cover. Coat the other side of the gasket with gasket sealer, and position the cover onto the housing. Install the bolts, and tighten them until the cover is just seated against the housing. Moving in a crisscross pattern, torque the bolts 30 foot-pounds.

11

Remove the filler plug from the differential cover. Add 4 ounces of limited-slip friction modifier to the differential, then fill it with 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil. The differential is full when the gear oil reaches the bottom of the filler hole. Replace and tighten the filler plug.

12

Install the brake drum, or install the rotor and rotate the caliper back onto the rotor. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Mount the wheels, and install the lug nuts. Raise the Expedition and remove the jack stands. Lower the Expedition to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts. Test drive, and check for leaks.

The axle bearings on a Camaro play a primary role in how the vehicle moves. They enable the wheel to move freely during travel. Over time these parts will begin to become worn and can break, requiring replacement. An indication that the axle bearings need to be replaced is if you can hear a thumping noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. If this problem occurs, then you need to replace the bearings immediately. If left untreated, this can cause serious steering issues for the vehicle. You can save money by replacing the axle bearings yourself.

Instructions

1

Lift the vehicle with a car jack to access the wheels. Use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts from the wheel then pull it off the Camaro.

2

Use an Allen wrench to remove the brake calipers from the brake discs. Hit the drum brake gently with a hammer until it loosens. Remove both the brake calipers and the drum.

3

Take the axle out of its casing by removing the four axle nuts with a socket wrench.

4

Remove the old bearings, taking note of their positions. Insert the new bearings. Use the old bearings to gently tap the new ones into their proper positions.

5

Reattach the axle to its casing. Securely fasten the bolts in place. Mount the brake calipers and drum brakes firmly back onto the vehicle.

6

Remount the wheel onto the Camaro and attach the lug nuts. Repeat the process on all four wheels. Once complete, test the vehicle in a quiet area to ensure the new bearings are fitted correctly.

A cars engine is the beating heart of its overall functioning, and engine bearings contribute to its core operation. If the bearings become worn and eventually fail, the engine itself will stop as well.

Identification

Engine bearings work along with the crankshaft and connecting rod to allow the pistons to move up and down through its rotation. If the bearings seize, the pistons stop working, shutting the entire engine down.

Features

Engine bearings are typically replaced, not fixed. The cause of the failure can be lack of oil, overheating or even debris. Since it is difficult to pinpoint the exact cause of failure, it is recommended to replace all bearings to ensure proper functioning.

Considerations

Another reason for overall replacement is the consideration of labor costs. The cost of repairing a bearing, as opposed to simply replacing it, can be much more due to the time involved for a mechanic to physically take it apart and reassemble.

Utility trailers are simple vehicles for light hauling and need little maintenance. Still, they do have some items that need to be checked and serviced regularly. The tires should be checked for air pressure and for damage before each trip. Also, the wheel bearings need to be serviced at least once a year. The wheel bearings on utility trailers are separate from the hub and can be serviced and replaced separately. This can be done with basic tools in a couple of hours on a two-axle trailer.

Instructions

Removal

1

Raise the trailer with a jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the center dust cap from the hub with a screwdriver. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut inside the cap with a pair of pliers.

2

Grasp the wheel from the top and bottom and pull out. The outer bearing will pop out. Remove it and set it aside. Set the wheel on the ground face up.

3

Tap out the inner bearing and seal with a non-metallic object to prevent damage to the bearing races. A block of wood works great for this. Set the inner bearing aside, keeping it separate from the outer bearing.

Cleaning, Inspection and Installation

4

Spray shop solvent on both bearings and inside of the hub. Wipe away all of the grease with a shop rag. Inspect both bearings and their contact surface. They should be free of pits and roll smoothly. If not, replace them.

5

Place a lump of grease in the palm of your hand and work the inner and outer bearing into the grease, forcing it thoroughly inside all of the rollers.

6

Insert the inner bearing into the hub. Tap in a new grease seal with the hammer and block of wood to prevent damage. Place the wheel and hub onto the spindle of the trailer. Place the outer bearing onto the spindle, pushing it inside the hub. Replace the washer and castle nut.

7

Tighten the castle nut firmly as you spin the wheel then back off the castle nut by 1/8 of a turn. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the castle nut. Replace the dust cover. Repeat for the other wheels on the trailer.