Repair And Fix it

A motorcycle chain can be repaired if a link is broken or worn out. A C-clip in the master link can be removed to allow removal of the chain from the motorcycle sprockets. The worn-out or broken part of the chain must be disassembled before inserting a new link and C-clip into the existing chain links to complete the repair. The chain can then be put back on the sprockets and the master-link reconnected.

Instructions

1

Find the master-link in the motorcycle chain. Look for a link with a C-clip interlocking the pin link pins.

2

Set the tip of a flat-head screwdriver inside the jaws of the C-clip and press down and out so the clip slips out of the circumferential groove of the pin. Slide the closed end of the C-clip off the adjacent pins grooves until it comes free from the chain.

3

Tap the pin link pins until the pin link slides out of the roller link. Pull the pin link out of the roller link with a pair of pliers. Remove the chain from the sprockets of the motorcycle.

4

Find the link in the chain that needs to be repaired. Put on a pair of gloves and safety glasses and grasp the chain with both hands so the bad link is in between your hands. Grind down the pin link plate pins until the link plate can be removed with pliers. Pull the pin link out of the roller link.

5

Insert a replacement pin link through the roller link until the pins come out on the side where the grinding was done. Snap a new C-clip into the grooves of the new pin link to lock the new link in place.

6

Put the chain back around the motorcycle sprockets. Reassemble the master chain link by inserting the pin link through the roller link and the outer roller link plate. Snap the C-clip back into the pin links grooves. Use the screwdriver if prying is needed to get the jaws of the C-clip open and over the pins.

If you have a vehicle with a sunroof, repairing it when it breaks is a necessity to keep elements from getting into the car. In many cases, a repair may not work, and you will have to take it to a dealer to completely replace it. Reasons for replacing it completely would be a problem in the actual motor of the sunroof not working properly, or in some cases a break in other internal hardware that cannot be reached with a simple repair kit. In some scenarios, repairing it can be the solution.

Instructions

1

Choose the model of sunroof that fits your car. There are sunroof kits available at your auto parts store that will correspond to the make and model of your car.

2

Place the template that comes with the sunroof kit unto the top of your sunroof. The template will help you see what the problems could be. The kit will also include manufacturers directions; read through them thoroughly.

3

Crank the sunroof open with a socket wrench little by little so you can isolate exactly where the sunroof is broken.

4

Remove the broken part of the sunroof and use your manufacturers kit to replace it. The manufacturers kit will have different components to use to replace broken parts. Use the manufacturers directions for specific information on replacing the part.

5

Test to make sure that parts have been installed correctly by cranking with the socket wrench slowly until the roof recedes back down. You can also test for leaks by gently squeezing water and looking at the underside to see if it is seeping through.

A stuck car horn can prove to be quite an embarrassment, especially if you cannot get it to stop quickly. And if you happen to be parked on a crowded street, it is even worse. The problems that can affect a car horn vary, so you may have to do a little troubleshooting to get it unstuck. Be prepared to take several minutes to get the horn to stop blowing if none of the easier options work.

Instructions

1

Press the horn again or tap it a few times. This may get the horn unstuck. If not, proceed to Step 2.

2

Turn off your engine. Refer to your car manuals circuit descriptions to learn where the fuse box is located. Find your fuse box and pull the horns fuse. If you can pull the fuse, this will silence the horn. If you cannot remove the fuse or find the fuse box, proceed to Step 3.

3

Open your cars hood. Locate the horn. If you can see the rear of the horn, you may be able to see the wires. In that case pull the wires. If you cannot pull them, use scissors or a knife to cut one of the wires. If you resorted to cutting the wire, make sure to tape the loose end so as to not short out your cars electrical system. If you are unable to locate the horn or disconnect the wires, proceed to Step 4.

4

Locate your car battery. Disconnect the main wires running to your battery with a wrench. Doing this may reset the car horn. Reattach the wires. If the horn goes back on, disconnect the wires again and proceed to an auto mechanic to get the horn fixed. If it does not go back on, also go to the mechanic to look into the problem.

The Honda Prelude is a sports coupe that Honda manufactured from 1978 to 2001. The 1998 model is available with several types four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engines, which have a single or double overhead camshaft. These engines use a timing belt to keep the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The timing belt has a limited lifetime and its repair consists of replacing the timing belt at periodic intervals.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the No. 1 cylinder to its top dead center position. Remove the covers for the valves and timing belt.

2

Fasten a bolt for the timing belt cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. This will hold the adjuster arm in place temporarily. Loosen the adjuster nut for the timing belt by one turn and push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to reduce the tension on the belt.

3

Hold the tensioner for the balancer in place and tighten its adjusting nut with a socket wrench. Remove the balancer belt from its pulleys and detach the sprocket for the balancer belt from the crankshaft.

4

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and push the tensioner to relieve the timing belt tension. Tighten the adjuster nut to hold the belt tensioner in place and remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulley.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing pointer with the timing mark on the flywheel. Turn the camshaft pulley clockwise until the word "UP" is on top of the pulley.

6

Install the timing belt onto its pulleys and belt tensioner. Loosen the locking bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt, then tighten it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the timing belt forward by three teeth to place tension on the timing belt.

7

Loosen the adjusting nut for the timing belt with a torque wrench, then tighten it to 33 foot-pounds. Tighten the locking bolt for the timing belt tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. Place the sprocket for the balancer belt on the crankshaft and turn the pulley for the balancer belt so that its timing mark aligns with the notch on the oil pump.

8

Install the balancer belt onto its pulleys, ensuring that its timing marks remain aligned. Loosen the adjusting nut for the balancer belt tensioner slowly to place tension on the balancer belt.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise one turn to align the timing marks on the timing belt and tighten the adjusting nut to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the bolt that is holding the timing belt tensioner in place. Install the covers for the timing belt and valves. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

It can be disheartening when repainting your automobile to see bubbles in your final stage of applying the clear coat. After all the work you put into sanding, primer and paint, it is all too easy to see your labor marred by these tiny bubbles, also known as fish eyes. These can be caused by a variety of things, including tiny bits of oil, water or dirt. Even passing diesel exhaust fumes can cause fish eyes in your clear coat. You can repair them, but it is a time-consuming process.

Instructions

1

Wet sand the bubbled portion of your automobiles surface using extra-fine sandpaper and water. You must sand away all of the clear coat on the affected portion. For example, if there are bubbles on the hood of your car, you must sand the entire hood, not just the bubbles. Always keep your sanding area wet, and gently sand away the clear coat. Do not sand too hard, or you may remove the paint.

2

Wash and rinse the sanded areas of your automobile thoroughly to completely remove all debris from the surface. If there is any debris remaining, fish eyes will form again when you reapply the clear coat. Allow the surface to completely dry since water can also cause bubbling in the clear coat.

3

Mix fish eye preventer and clear coat in your paint sprayer according to the fish eye preventers instructions. The preventer is silicon-based, and can compensate for tiny bits of oils or debris in the atmosphere that could potentially cause fish eyes.

4

Spray the clear coat and fish eye preventer mixture on the affected portion of your automobile. Use a smooth, even motion. If you plan to apply more than one coat, make sure that the preceding coat is completely dry. If the preceding coat is still wet, this could also cause bubbles to form.

A bottle jack is an essential tool for any mechanic. When you need to raise a vehicle, nothing will do a better job than a bottle jack. When your jack fails, it can leave you completely unable to work on a vehicle. Instead of sending yours away for a lengthy and costly repair, check some of the common causes of problems with bottle jacks. You may find you can repair the problem before sending your jack away.

Instructions

1

Check the weight limit of your jack and compare if with the weight of the vehicle. The capacity of the jack is written either on the jack or the documentation that accompanied it when it was new. The weight of a car is usually written on a panel on the drivers door pillar. Do not lift a vehicle with a jack or rated to handle the weight. Property damage or injury could result.

2

Remove the jack from the vehicle and extend it all the way out. You may be able to do this by pumping with no weight or you may have to open the release valve and pull the piston out. Watch for binding in the piston as you are pulling it out, also check for excessive oil (there should be a little, but not much more), dirt or other foreign substances on the piston. These could be a result of a bad seal. Examine the seal around the bottom of the piston for damage. If this seal is damaged the jack will likely need to go to a repair shop.

3

Open the oil reservoir filler cap and check the level of the hydraulic oil. This cap is usually the uppermost cap on the bottle jack and you may need the screwdriver to help you open it. The oil should be about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole. If the oil is low then add hydraulic fluid to bring it to the right level but do not over fill.

4

Bleed the jack by opening the release valve and pumping the handle vigorously several times. Close the release valve and pump the jack up to its full height. If it still wont go all the way up then repeat the bleed process until it does. Wipe the jack with the cloth before bleeding and then examine it afterward for any sign of a leak. If you find a leak then trace it back to the seal it is coming from and replace that seal. The procedure will vary depending on the seal and the model of jack. Consult a professional if you are unable to replace it.

5

Lift the vehicle using the jack. If the jack still will not lift then you may have a problem with the pump. This is a very complex system and you should send the jack to an authorized repair facility to have the pump replaced.

The rear sway bar on a Mercury Cougar provides added stability for the car when cornering or making other maneuvers at speed. The sway bar mounts on the rear frame and ties the chassis to the rear suspension to reduce occurrence of body roll. If the sway bar incurs damage from an impact, or simply suffers end deformity from wear and tear, youll need to replace it as the sway bar itself is not repairable. If youre known for your mechanical aptitude, you can accomplish this job in less than one hour.

Instructions

1

Place the wheel chocks against the Cougars right-front wheel to prevent the Mercury from rolling.

2

Elevate the Cougars rear end using a floor jack. Position a jack stand under the body rail jack points on either side of the back of the Cougar and lower the car onto the jack stands. Move the floor jack away from the rear of the car.

3

Unbolt the ends of the Cougars rear sway bar from the sway bar links using your socket set. Unbolt the rear sway bar brackets with the socket set and lower the sway bar to the ground by hand.

4

Move the old sway bar out from under the Cougar by hand. Replace it with the new sway bar. Hold the new sway bar in position and bolt the sway bar brackets back in using your socket set, making sure the sway bar bushings dont squirt out while tightening the brackets.

5

Bolt the sway bar ends to the sway bar links using your socket set. Lift the Cougars rear end off the jack stands using the floor jack. Move the stands away from the car before lowering it to the ground.

An auto body repair or restoration project can often come to a sudden halt if welding is required. Welding requires extensive specialist knowledge and expensive equipment that many enthusiasts might not have. There are also instances where auto body panels cannot be repaired by welding because of fire risks. This leaves car enthusiasts with little choice but to find an alternative method to execute the repair and there are some simple fabrication techniques that provide excellent results with the need for welding.

Instructions

1

Take a P80 sanding disc and place it onto the pad of a random orbital sander. Sand the damaged area thoroughly until a surface of bare metal has been exposed around the repair. Ensure that an additional two to three inches of additional exposed metal is sanded back beyond the area to be repaired. Paint edges should be feathered out to assist with the priming process at a later stage.

2

Mark a square two inches outside the damaged area with a metal scribe. Drill a half-inch hole into the middle of the square to allow access and use an air-fed nibbling tool to cut out the square, making sure that the guide stays just within the confines of the scribed line.

3

Take a panel flanging tool and create a flange around the cut area of the auto body panel. The flange needs to be deep so that the addition of a metal patch will produce a flush surface. Apply a light coating of zinc spray to all bare metal as a means of protecting against corrosion and while this is drying, find a suitable piece of scrap metal in the same gauge as the auto body panel and cut out a patch that will fit exactly into the flanged recess. Use a piece of cardboard to act as a template if required.

4

Lay the metal patch into the flanged hole and secure into place on the corners with masking tape. Take the drill and make a series of holes through the patch and the flanged area, making sure the patch stays in place. Two to three holes on each of the four edges of the square will be sufficient. The holes need to be big enough to accommodate the rivets you will be using in the next stage.

5

With the patch still held in place, insert rivets into the holes and activate the rivet gun so the metal patch is secured to the flanged recess. Complete all the way around the square until every hole has a rivet attached to keep the patch in place. Use a panel hammer to tap down any high spots and to ensure the heads of the rivets sit below the surface of the auto body panel.

6

Apply a coat of galvanized body fill over the repaired area. Leave the filler to dry then sand down with a flat block and P80 grit sanding paper. Several applications of body filler may be required before a completely flat surface is assured.

Mercedes key fobs are known as SmartKeys. Every late-model Mercedes-Benz vehicle is equipped with a SmartKey, which allows you to lock and unlock your doors without touching your car keys. When you are close enough to your Mercedes vehicle with your SmartKey, you can push the button located on the door handle and your doors will lock and/or unlock automatically. If your SmartKey is not working, there are several do-it-yourself repairs available to repair your SmartKey you can try before contacting your Mercedes-Benz dealer for an appointment.

Instructions

1

Replace the battery in your SmartKey. Purchase a new battery at any auto parts store or any authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership. Open the SmartKey fob using a sharp object, such as a butter knife, and trade out the dead battery for the new battery. Test the SmartKey remote.

2

Repair a SmartKey that no longer starts your cars engine by turning off all of the non-essential functions in your car, such as lights, the radio and the heated seats, then try to start the ignition. Jump-start your car if this does not work and contact your Mercedes-Benz service department for a repair appointment.

3

Pull the door handle of your Mercedes and turn your SmartKey to the second position in the ignition. Use this method if you cannot lock or unlock your car with the remote.

4

Contact Mercedes-Benz. The Mercedes-Benz website allows you to enter your zip code to find the dealership nearest your location.

5

Explain that your key fob is not working correctly. Be as specific about the problem as you can. For example: tell the dealership if your key fob only works when you are unlocking your doors and not for anything else. The more specific you are, the better Mercedes can diagnose your fobs issue.

6

Attempt to fix your key fob if the mechanic at Mercedes tells you to try any self-diagnostics on the fob. Sometimes the mechanic recognizes the problem without ever seeing the fob, based on your description of the problem and will walk you through the repair process. If he or she cannot, youll need to take your key to Mercedes for repair.

7

Take your key to Mercedes if self-diagnostics you tried on your own and/or that the mechanic advised you to try do not work. From this point the process is up to Mercedes, such as how long you need to wait, whether or not your fob is fixable or youll need to order a new one and how much the repair/replacement will cost you.

When your hydraulic jack stops working then its likely a seal has failed. This causes hydraulic fluid to leak out, the pressure to drop, and the jack to stop lifting. Replacing a seal can be a tall order and sometimes the replacement parts can cost more than a new jack. However, if you can isolate the leak to one seal in particular then you should be able to replace that seal for relatively little money.

Instructions

Find the Source of the Leak

1

Open the cap for the oil reservoir. With the bottle on its side, fill the jack until it is about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole. Replace the cap and wipe the outside clean with the cloth.

2

Place the jack under a vehicle and pump it up until there is weight on it. Continue to pump and watch the jack to find out where the fluid is coming from. It is likely to be coming either from around the piston at the top of the jack, around one of the screws in the bottom of the jack or around the piston under the handle.

3

Lower the jack, wipe it down and place it on a bench for further work.

Leakage from the Top

4

Drain the oil from the jack by opening the oil reservoir and letting it into a tray. Stand the jack so the piston extends vertically and youll find it looks like a bottle. At the top of this bottle there is a nut called the tank nut, through which the piston extends. Undo the tank nut using a pipe wrench. You may have to use a clamp or vice to hold the jack in place.

5

Remove the piston from the jack. Once the tank nut is undone the piston will slide out. There are several pieces to the piston, record their positions as you remove them so you can put them back the same way. The positions and order will depend on the jack you are repairing. Examine the seals around these pieces to see whether they are pinched, cracked or broken. Replace any that look worn.

6

Replace the pieces of the piston inside the jack and tighten the tank bolt.

Leakage from the Bottom

7

Drain the oil from the jack by opening the oil reservoir and tipping the oil out.

8

Remove the screw that shows the leak and look carefully into the hole. There will be a ball or a pin if it is the release valve, or two balls and two springs if it is the overload valve. Carefully remove each of these pieces and make a note of the order in which you removed them.

9

Verify all the balls and springs are present and then examine the inside of the hole for the O-rings and washers creating the seal. Examine these for cracks, breaks or pinches. Replace anything in bad shape.

10

Put the balls and springs back in the hole in the order you removed them. Usually it goes small ball then small spring, then large ball and large spring. Depending on the jack, you may also have plates and guides to keep the balls and springs in place.

11

Once the balls and springs are back inside, replace the screw.

Leakage from the Handle

12

Drain the oil from the jack by removing the reservoir plug and letting the oil into a tray.

13

Remove the bolts securing the handle to the piston and to its pivot. There are usually three or four bolts. The number depends on the manufacturer.

14

Place the jack in a vice and pull out the pump piston, which is attached to the handle. It is not bolted in place but it may require a lot of force to remove. Put aside the piston and examine the O-rings and washers for any sign of pinching, cracking or breaking. All the seals are on the inside of the hole, in the body of the jack. Very few jacks have seals on the handle itself. Replace any worn seals.

15

Push the piston back down into the hole and replace the handle assembly, securing it with the same bolts you removed.

Finishing

16

Replace the oil in the reservoir. Open the reservoir cap and fill it with hydraulic oil until it is about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole when the jack is on its side.

17

Remove any excess air from the jack by opening the release valve and vigorously pumping the handle. Close the release valve, then raise and lower the jack as you normally would. If there is still air in the system, the jack will not reach its full range of travel, so repeat the process until you get the full range of travel.

18

Wipe the jack with the cloth to clean the outside and lift the vehicle again. Determine whether there are any other leaks by examining the outside of the jack.

The Toyota Camry, one of the most popular mid-size cars in the United States, boasts many safety features, and a range of options to fit almost any budget. The Camry is also well known among mechanics as an easily repairable car, making it that much more desirable. The 1998 Camry is no exception. Known for comfort and safety, this car needs little in the way of maintenance, and repairs tend to fall toward the inexpensive. With a set of mechanics tools and the right Chiltons manual, you can make many of these repairs yourself.

Instructions

Fixing a 1998 Toyota Camry

1

Gather information about 1998 Toyota Camrys. Read customer reviews and mechanic websites. Learn about the common problems and maintenance issues specific to a 1998 Camry. Gather maintenance schedules and information about tire sizes, oil types and other fluids that are specifically compatible with a 1998 Camry.

2

Inspect the car yourself. Test drive the car and listen for any strange sounds. Make note of any pulling or other motion-related disparities in the movement of the car. If possible, pop the hood and get underneath the car. Check for leaking fluids or broken parts.

3

Research any problem you notice. With the information you gathered from the inspection, look through your Chiltons manual, which describes how to fix any mechanical problem you may encounter with your car.

4

Consult with a mechanic, or begin the repair yourself, depending on the nature of the repair needed for the car. If you need to seek professional assistance, contact a mechanic that specializes in foreign cars, or better yet, one that specializes in Toyotas. If you are mechanically inclined or are facing a simple repair, you may choose to fix the vehicle yourself. Make sure you observe safety standards if you need to raise the car on jack stands, and use gloves to protect your hands. You can purchase parts for your Camry at most automotive stores or online. Keep your Chiltons manual close by for reference.

Fuel injectors operate in conjunction with a high pressure fuel system. The fuel injector head is connected to the fuel line and engine through a O-ring seal. The O-ring allows the injector to be seated, in both the fuel line and engine, without requiring bolts, screws or threaded connectors. Injector leaks stemming from poor O-ring connections may be caused by O-ring shrinkage, exposure to high heat, chemical decomposition, or tears in the O-ring material. Leaks coming directly from the injector require full injector replacement. Replace O-rings whenever an injector is removed from the fuel line or engine, for best results.

Instructions

1

Pressurize the fuel system by turning the ignition key to the "electronics only" mode. The fuel pump will turn on pressurize the fuel lines. If in doubt, turn on the vehicle briefly.

2

Lift the hood. Inspect the fuel injectors and connections for leaks. If fuel is leaking from the injector seal at the fuel line -- the point at which the injector connects to the fuel rail -- the leak is most likely due to O-ring failure. If the fuel is leaking directly from the injector, the injector needs to be replaced. Fuel leaks inside the engines cylinders, often reported by the on-board computer as lean or rich conditions, will require injector replacement.

3

Depressurize the fuel system. Remove the plug to the fuel safety cut-off switch, if equipped, to disable the fuel pump. Fuel safety cut-off switch locations can be found in the vehicles owners manual. Attempt to start the vehicle several times to use any remaining fuel. Remove the ignition key and disconnect the battery.

Injector Removal

4

Remove any vehicle components restricting access to the fuel line. Air intakes, electronics, vacuum hoses and components should all be carefully labeled to ensure they are correctly reinstalled when you are finished servicing the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel injector plug.

5

Disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel injector. Some fuel rails are bolted to the engine. Remove any bolts which prevent removal of the fuel rail. Pull the rail directly away from the fuel injector to disengage the seal. A small amount of fuel may spill from the rail, once the rail is lifted from the injector. Wipe up any fuel before continuing.

6

Grasp the injector with your hands, to avoid tool damage to the injector, and pull directly away from the engine to remove the injector. Rock the injector if the seal is tight. You may feel a slight popping sensation when the injector releases.

7

Inspect the fuel injector for physical damage. Cracked or damaged injectors should be replaced.

8

Remove the O-rings from the top and bottom of the injector. Clean the injector head and nozzle with a brake parts cleaner saturated cloth and allow to dry.

Leak Fixing

9

Install new O-rings on the removed injectors. Coat the O-rings with a small amount of motor oil. The motor oil will lubricate the O-rings during installation to help prevent small tears during the seating process and help prevent the breakdown of the O-ring during use. Slide an O-ring over each end of the injector until the O-ring is seated in the gap provided for the seal.

10

Grasp the injector with your hand and push the injector into the injector hole on the engine. You may feel a small pop as the injector becomes seated. When correctly installed, the injector will resist removal.

11

Press the fuel line onto the injector head, until it is firmly seated.

12

Reconnect the fuel injector plug. Reattach the fuel rail to the engine, if required. Connect any engine components initially removed to provide access to the fuel injectors. Connect the battery.

13

Reconnect the fuel safety cut-off switch, if disabled. Turn on the vehicle for 15 seconds to allow the fuel lines to pressurize. Check for leaks. Start the vehicle to confirm installation.

Repairing the backup lights on the rear of your 1998 Chevy Truck requires changing the bulbs. The backup lights provide clean, white light that allows you to see what is behind you when backing up the truck after dark. The lights also provide a way for other drivers to see you backing up. The bulb used in the backup lights of the Chevy is a 2057 and is available from parts retail stores.

Instructions

1

Open the tailgate of your Chevy and locate the two taillight retaining screws in the side of the bed where the tailgate would sit when closed. There is an upper and lower retaining screw on each taillight assembly.

2

Remove the retaining screws from the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the taillight assembly straight out of the body. Locate the electrical connector on the rear of the assembly, press the locking tab down, and disconnect it from the assembly.

3

Rotate the backup light bulb socket counterclockwise, and pull it out of the assembly. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket, and replace it with a new 2057 bulb. Slide the bulb socket into the rear of the assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

4

Connect the electrical harness connector to the taillight assembly. Slide the assembly into the body opening. Install the two retaining screws through the body and into the taillight. Tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

5

Move to the opposite side of the truck and repeat the process if required. Close the tailgate.

The Chevy Tahoe was introduced in 1995, and it is a relative to the Yukon--the GMC version of the SUV. The Tahoe basically replaced the full-sized Chevy Blazer. Available since 1996 with V8 engines, the Tahoe features four O2 sensors (also known as oxygen sensors). There are two of these sensors located in front of the catalytic converter, and they are designed to monitor the fuel and air ratio mixture in the exhaust. Two more sensors are located near each converter, and serve to monitor their efficiency. One or more of these sensors can become defective and will need replacement.

Locating the Faulty Sensor

When an oxygen sensor fails, the "Service Engine Soon" light will illuminate on the dash. Take your Tahoe to an auto parts store to get the on-board computer scanned. Auto parts stores will perform this service for free, and they can help you determine which sensor(s) have failed. Since there are four sensors on most Tahoes, the scanner will be able to detect which one by reading the "check engine" codes: Bank 1, sensor 1 is the upstream sensor on the cylinder 1 side of the exhaust system; bank 1, sensor 2 is the downstream sensor on the cylinder 1 side; bank 2 sensor 1 is the upstream sensor on the opposite side of cylinder 1; and bank 2, sensor 2 is the downstream sensor on the same side.

Purchase direct-fit sensor(s). Direct-fit sensors integrate the plug-in outlet, therefore no rewiring is required. These sensors cost slightly more than universal sensors. Also, universal sensors require eliminating the male and female plug counterparts from the wire harness. Direct-fit sensors, however, do not require any wire splicing--they simply plug in to the existing wire harness connection.

Replacing the Sensor

Warm the engine up for a couple of minutes before you attempt to replace the sensor. This will expand the metal and make removing the sensor much easier. While the engine is running, spray a large amount of lubricant along the threaded joint of the faulty sensor(s) and allow it to soak in.

Disconnect the wire harness outlet from the sensor. The wire from the sensor runs about seven to eight inches from the sensor, and it is retained by a plastic clip, to prevent it from contacting the hot exhaust system.

Use a 22-mm combination hand wrench or an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet to remove the sensor. If using a wrench, insert the disconnect sensor wire through the box-end side of the combination wrench. If using an O2 sensor socket, insert the wire into the slot on the side of the socket. Turn the sensor counter-clockwise until it is loose. The sensors only have four to five threads, so it wont take much to loosen them enough to be removed by hand.

Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the threaded section of the new sensor. Most direct-fit quality replacement sensors may already have a light coat on the threads. Be sure, if you have to add some on, that you do not get any on the thimble-shaped sensor--only a very light coat on the threads.

Thread the sensor into the port by hand at first, so that you dont cross-thread it. Tighten the sensor snugly with the wrench or socket and ratchet, but be careful not to over-tighten it. Since it only has four to five threads, sensors are very easily stripped out by over-tightening.

Plug the wire harness connection back together and re-secure the wire to the plastic retaining clip.

Resetting the Check Engine Light

Bring the Tahoe back to the parts store that sold you the O2 sensor(s) and scanned the trouble code for you. They will usually offer to reset the "Service Engine Soon" light for you. However, once the sensor(s) have been replaced, the computer will detect the new component and begin running through an inspection and maintenance (IM) self-diagnostic mode. This may take a few driving cycles to perform, as the engine needs to heat up and cool down repeatedly. Once the IM monitors have completed the self-diagnostic and detected that the new replacement sensor is performing its intended task, the on-board computer will turn off the "Service Engine Soon" light.

Due to environmental and operational factors, automotive exhaust systems degrade over time and may require repair. While some elements of an exhaust are expensive and difficult or impossible to repair on your own, many common exhaust problems can be easily and effectively repaired by a shop or owner.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle on jack stands, using a hydraulic jack. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (always a safe precaution when working on a car).

2

Examine the exhaust to identify the failure point once the vehicle is on jack stands. Make sure the exhaust is cold as once an exhaust warms up, it may mask a leak. Use a bottle of soapy water if needed to help find a leak. Spray down a suspected area liberally and watch to see bubbles or other signs of escaping gas.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold if you discover that it is leaking. Spray down the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold with penetrating oil and allow to sit for at least 20 minutes. Remove the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the downstream exhaust pipe or catalytic converter. Then remove the bolts connecting the manifold to the engine block. Once removed inspect the manifold for leaks. If there is a crack in the manifold, it should be replaced, or taken to an exhaust shop to be repaired. If the gasket is burnt or torn, then replace with a new gasket and re-install.

4

Patch the muffler with an exhaust patch kit if you discover that the muffler has been damaged. Patch kits typically will be a metal tape with an adhesive backing that can be applied directly over the damaged section.

5

Broken hangers can be repaired if a broken hanger is causing the exhaust to hang or drag. An exhaust shop can repair the broken hanger, or you can use a generic exhaust clamp kit that will clamp around the exhaust pipe and thus support the muffler.

When routine maintenance is needed or when car problems arise, three main options are available. The car can be taken to the dealership, an auto repair chain shop or an independent repair shop. Auto repair chain shops offer certain advantages over the other two options.

Reduced Cost

Auto chain shops in general offer lower prices for routine maintenance, such as oil changes, explained AutoMD President Shane Evangelist. Auto repair chains often offer specials or promotions for oil changes and other basic services. Because an auto repair chain has less overhead and lower labor pricing, it can afford to offer lower prices to its customers. Also, an auto repair chain generally uses aftermarket high-quality auto parts instead of dealership factory parts. Auto repair chains often publish coupons in flyers or over the Internet that offer additional discounts.

Reputation

Because they have a reputation to uphold, auto chain shops strive to provide quality service on the first visit. According to one auto repair chain, Cottman Transmission & Total Care, many auto chain facilities are registered with the BBB (Better Business Bureau) and many technicians are listed with the AAA-approved auto repair list. Like dealerships, most auto repair chains honor extended warranties on vehicles.

Various Locations

Because an auto repair chain has stores in several areas, the repair history of the vehicle will be saved in the chains computer system. This is convenient for customers who have moved to a new location or for those who for some reason need their vehicles fixed while out of town. Also, since a number of shops form part of the auto repair chain, more company resources can be shared for fixing car problems.

Knowledgeable Technicians

As many chains specialize in a certain aspects of auto repair, their technicians gain experience and efficiency in these specific fields. Unlike a dealership, they have knowledge of many different types of cars, not just one make or model. That being so, they can offer service for all the cars that a family owns. Dealerships also have to focus on selling cars, but auto repair chains are devoted exclusively to performing auto repair and maintenance.

The 1998 model of the Mitsubishi Galant ranks high on MSN Autos reliability rating scale. However, since inception, two recalls were reported concerning suspension system ball joint protection failure and after-market fuel pump leaks. Galant owners can now benefit from a few maintenance tips drawn from 13 years of consumer complaints cataloged about their car.

Lower Lateral Arm Ball Joints

Rusty ball joints can disconnect and cause road accidents. Take your 1998 Mitsubishi Galant to a local dealership. Ask the service department to look for wear on the lower lateral arm ball joint. Damaged rubber boots on this suspension system component can cause dirt and water to seep into joints. Mitsubishi dealerships will be able to identify the original lower lateral arm ball joints placed at assembly. Due to a recall of this part issued December 18, 2000, the dealership will replace the worn factory part with a new lower lateral arm ball joint that is designed differently to prevent the intrusion of corrosive materials. If your lower lateral arm ball joint is not worn, the dealership will still place a protective sealant on it free of charge.

After-Market Fuel Pumps

Review your 1998 Mitsubishi Galants work orders. Look for the installation of an Airtex fuel pump. Even if you did not replace your fuel pump, if you are not the original car owner, take your Galant to a local dealership. Ask the service department to check if the fuel pump module assembly is made by Airtex. This check could prevent a possible fuel fire. On July 26, 2007, model number P/N E7081H of the Airtex fuel pump module assembly was recalled because its wall is not thick enough to prevent a fuel leak, which can result in a fire if ignited. There were 222 1998 Mitsubishi Galants fitted with this aftermarket part. If this model of fuel pump is detected, the dealership will replace this part at no cost to you.

Master Cylinder Change

Replace brake fluid after changing the master cylinder. The best way to do this is to fill the brake fluid reservoir and then disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. Have someone else press down on the brake pedal while you hold your fingers over the outlet port. The other person should then release the brake pedal. These steps should be repeated until the brake fluid reservoir is filled to capacity.

Driveshaft Installation

It is easy to damage the 1998 Mitsubishi Galant driveshaft when installing or removing it. To prevent damage, do not hit the anti-lock braking system rotors against other driveshaft parts.

Whether its caused by rolling the window up and down or a person rubbing something against it, scratched window tint is difficult to repair. Theres no quick fix option for even the smallest scratch. Damaged areas require new tint film.

Removal

Remove the scratched section by cutting around it with a razor blade. Be sure to cut all the way down to the glass to avoid pulling off undamaged tint film when youre taking off the piece that is scratched. Remove glue residue left from the old tint using water.

Replacement

Cut a new piece of window tint film that is slightly larger than the scratched piece you removed from the window. Remove the backing from the side of the new tint that has adhesive, place it on the area that you cut out, and quickly use a squeegee to eliminate air bubbles between the tint and window. Carefully cut off the excess film as close to the area you patched as possible.

Professionals

Window tint website Tint Center says some professional tint shops offer lifetime warranties for their work. If you have your window tint installed by one of these shops, they will repair future scratches free of charge.

A large portion of automobile components are fabricated from plastics such as ABS. ABS is one of the strongest and most versatile plastics used in the automotive industry. Both collision damage and parts modifications can leave holes in this material that can lead to moisture getting into a cars interior. While small holes are quickly repaired with a few drops of epoxy, larger holes require more work. Use a few simple tools and techniques to repair larger holes, avoiding a costly trip to the auto body shop.

Instructions

1




Clean the area being repaired thoroughly. If the part youre repairing can be removed from the vehicle, remove it and clean both sides of the part. Otherwise, clean the area around and inside of the hole, especially the holes edges. The reason many glues and body fillers fail to work is because a layer of oil or grease forms a barrier between the glue or filler and the part being repaired. This keeps the glue or filler from completely adhering to the part. Liquid dish washing detergent and hot water will work well for cleaning parts, as long as the detergent is formulated to remove grease. After the part is completely dry, apply a 2-inch border of masking tape around the hole.

2

Cut a small disk of ABS, 1/4 inch larger than the hole. Use 1/32-inch thick ABS, purchased at any plastic retailer. Test fit the disk to make sure that it covers the entire opening. Apply a thin bead of gap filling cement around the disks outer edge. Mount the disk on the backside of the hole. Most ABS comes with a textured side and a smooth side. Use either side. Allow 6 hours drying time.

3




Mix the body filler and cream hardener. The body filler should be mixed with the cream hardener in a 10-to-1 ratio, 10 parts filler to 1 part hardener. This is a general rule of thumb. Refer to the instructions on the side of the fillers can for the specific mixing ratio. Mix the body filler and cream hardener until an even color is reached. There should be no streaks of hardener visible. Mix only enough to fill one hole. Most body fillers start to harden after five to 10 minutes. Using a small putty knife, apply the mixed body filler to the hole. Smooth the filled area out with the putty knife. Allow one hour drying time.

4

Sand the body filler down until it is level with the parts surface. Sand the area down, by hand, with 120-grit sandpaper. Add additional filler to raise the level of the repaired area if needed. Sand again if necessary. Once the filled area is level with the parts surface, sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe all dust and debris off of the repaired surface.

5

Spray the sanded area with auto primer. Use a standard gray automotive primer. Using painters masking tape, adhere old newspaper to the rest of the part to keep it from becoming covered with primer. Lightly sand the primed area with 600-grit sandpaper. Wipe down the sanded area with a rag to remove any sanding debris. After the primer dries, apply automotive paint matched to the parts color and the project is complete.

Shock absorbers provide a vehicle with a smooth ride on varying or rough terrain. However, when a shock absorber mount breaks, the attached shock absorber cannot perform its function any longer, and the vehicle will suffer from decreased handling performance. The procedure for fixing these mounts varies greatly, depending on the type of vehicle, but for the most part the job can be done by someone with very little mechanical experience.

Instructions

1

Remove the lower and upper shock restraint bolts, using a ratchet wrench and the appropriate sized socket. Use the pry bar to pry the mount if it affects force on the shock, until it can be released. Pull the shock from the gap and place to the side.

2

Locate the broken mount and determine the type of fixture. Use the ratchet and the appropriate sized socket to remove the mount, if it is bolted on. Pry the mount from the vehicle body and discard. Replace with a new after-market shock mount and secure, using the bolts. Reinstall the shock absorber.

3

Use a grinder to cut off the ends of rivets, if the mount was secured with a rivet gun. Cut into the rivet head at a 45 degree angle and slowly rock the grinder back and forth to wear the head away. Use a pry bar to pull the mount from the remainder of the rivet stem. Use a hammer and hammer chisel to remove the stems from the mounting holes. Replace the mount with a bolt-on after-market replacement, and secure using the supplied bolts. Reinstall the shock absorber.

4

Attempt to beat the mount straight, using the hammer, if the mount is permanently welded to the vehicles chassis. Place a block of wood, roughly the size of the shocks mount, near the shock mount. Position the block of wood as if you were mounting the shock. Use the hammer to align the mount to the shape and width of the block. Place the shock absorber into the mount and attempt to install it. Continue shaping the mount with the hammer until the shock absorber can be installed securely, without any movement in the mount area.