Repair And Fix it

A motorcycle chain can be repaired if a link is broken or worn out. A C-clip in the master link can be removed to allow removal of the chain from the motorcycle sprockets. The worn-out or broken part of the chain must be disassembled before inserting a new link and C-clip into the existing chain links to complete the repair. The chain can then be put back on the sprockets and the master-link reconnected.

Instructions

1

Find the master-link in the motorcycle chain. Look for a link with a C-clip interlocking the pin link pins.

2

Set the tip of a flat-head screwdriver inside the jaws of the C-clip and press down and out so the clip slips out of the circumferential groove of the pin. Slide the closed end of the C-clip off the adjacent pins grooves until it comes free from the chain.

3

Tap the pin link pins until the pin link slides out of the roller link. Pull the pin link out of the roller link with a pair of pliers. Remove the chain from the sprockets of the motorcycle.

4

Find the link in the chain that needs to be repaired. Put on a pair of gloves and safety glasses and grasp the chain with both hands so the bad link is in between your hands. Grind down the pin link plate pins until the link plate can be removed with pliers. Pull the pin link out of the roller link.

5

Insert a replacement pin link through the roller link until the pins come out on the side where the grinding was done. Snap a new C-clip into the grooves of the new pin link to lock the new link in place.

6

Put the chain back around the motorcycle sprockets. Reassemble the master chain link by inserting the pin link through the roller link and the outer roller link plate. Snap the C-clip back into the pin links grooves. Use the screwdriver if prying is needed to get the jaws of the C-clip open and over the pins.

Many motorcycles have multiple carburetors providing power for the engine. In a multiple carburetor system, one or more carburetors may fall out of adjustment, or synchronization, with the others. This causes the cylinder to receive a different amount of air and fuel than the others and create an imbalance in the engine. Poor power, hesitation and bad fuel economy may result. You can make a mechanical adjustment to ensure all carburetors work at the same time and same rate.

Instructions

1

Place the motorcycle on the center stand. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until it idles reliably. Do not allow it to reach full operating temperature as this may lead to overheating.

2

Shut the engine off. Turn off the fuel supply petcock at the gas tank and remove the fuel line at the carburetors. Remove the hold-down bolt at the rear of the gas tank and lift the tank off the motorcycle. On some models, it may be necessary to remove the seat or side covers in order to remove the gas tank and access the carburetors.

3

Remove the vacuum plugs from the carburetor bodies. Some motorcycles have rubber caps press-fit into vacuum ports; others have screw-in plugs that require adapters that come with a multi-port manometer kit. Select the proper adapters and connect the vacuum lines from the synchronization tool to the ports on the carburetor bodies. On motorcycles with more than two carburetors, match the numbers on the manometer ports to those on the carburetor.

4

Hang the auxiliary gas tank from the handlebars and connect the hose to the carburetor gas line inlet. Place the portable fan in front of the engine and direct the air flow over the engine to keep it cool. Turn the auxiliary gas tank cut-off valve to the "On" position. Ensure the fuel hose is not touching against an exhaust pipe or the engine.

5

Start the motorcycle and observe the readings on the synchronization tool. The carburetors must be adjusted if the gauge reads more than 2.4 inches of mercury between any two or more units. Locate the adjusting screws for the carburetors. Some models have the screws located between the carburetor bodies; other models require the removal of a top cover to access the adjusters.

6

Identify the base carburetor. On any multi-carb system, one carburetor is considered the base piece and is not adjustable. All other carburetors can be adjusted to match the base piece. The base carburetor is normally identified by having the throttle cable and idle speed screw attached to it. Turn the adjusting screws on the other carburetors one at a time until the readings on the synchronizer are within 2.4 inches of each other. Tighten down any lock-nuts, making sure the adjustments do not change.

7

Repeat the previous step for every carburetor on the motorcycle. Open and close the throttle a few times and recheck the readings. When all readings on all carburetors are within 2.4 inches, tighten all lock-nuts and replace any covers or other devices that were removed to access the adjuster nuts. Set the final idle speed to the manufacturers specifications and shut down the engine.

8

Remove the auxiliary gas tank and synchronization tool . Remove any adapters and replace the vacuum port plugs or caps on the carburetors. Replace the gas tank, side covers or any other component that you removed.

Knowing a spark plugs specifications is crucial to understanding how the engine operates. A spark can make an engine run well, or it can damage it with pre-ignition. If you do not use the plug with the correct rating, your car will not operate properly.

Why Plugs Need Ratings

Different spark plug lengths are compatible with cylinders of different sizes. Different engines also require plugs with different spark ratings. Depending on the engine, choosing the right plug ensures the fuel burns efficiently once the piston compresses it against the cylinder cap.

Sparks also indicate whether the engine is burning fuel properly. If the fuel is burning too lean, the spark plug tip will show a chalky white residue. If it is burning too rich, the plug will be black or oily.

Spark Specification Coding

Sparks are usually coded in four digits. The first letter is thread diameter code. This lets a user know the plug will fit right in the engine socket or not.

The second digit is a number for the heat rating (the lower the number, the hotter the plugs spark).

The third letter is a digit for the length of the plug (short or long). Smaller engines tend to use a shorter length that screws into the cylinder cap.

The fourth digit is for any special codes of manufacturing company differences and brand identifications.

Lastly, if a fifth digit exists, it represents the electrode gap measurement.

Using the Wrong Plug

While spark plugs are generally designed similarly enough that they can be used interchangeably, doing so is not a good idea. The wrong specification will mean the spark plug will run too hot or too cold and foul.

Running too hot is more serious; a hot spark plug will cause pre-ignition which makes the engine misfire and can melt a hole in a piston.