Repair And Fix it

The Ford F-Series is a line of full-size pickup trucks in continuous production since 1948. The F150 models have a nominal carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton, although the actual payload is typically more than 1/2 ton. A 1989 Ford F150 has a variety of engine choices and all of them come with fuel injection. The procedure for installing a fuel injector in this vehicle will vary slightly depending on the size of the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the valve cap from the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line in the upper right quadrant of the engine compartment.

2

Attach pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Remove the pressure gauge from the relief valve and place the cap on the relief valve.

3

Disconnect the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel rail and detach the electrical connection for each fuel injector.

4

Remove the fuel injectors from the lower intake manifold by rocking the fuel injectors gently back and forth while pulling up. Replace any worn O-rings or plastic caps for the fuel injectors.

5

Apply engine oil to the O-rings and put them on the new fuel injectors. Place the plastic caps onto the top of the fuel injectors. Install the fuel injectors onto the lower intake manifold by pushing them in gently as you rock them back an forth.

6

Attach the electrical wiring to the fuel injection and install the fuel rail. Connect the upper intake manifold if you removed it in Step 3. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Honda Civic is a line of subcompact and compact cars made by Honda since 1973. The models made from 2006 to 2010 are compacts with several choices of engines, most often a four-cylinder 1.8-liter engine. These vehicles use mult-port fuel injection, which requires a fuel pressure regulator to control the pressure in the fuel lines. The fuel pressure regulator in recent model Honda Civics is located under the rear seat and is part of the fuel tank unit.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump under the dashboard and start the engine. Allow the engine to run until it stalls and replace the fuse for the fuel pump. Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the discharge of fuel into the fuel system.

2

Remove the cushion from the rear seat of the vehicle and pull the upper cross-member from the rear floor. Disconnect the retaining screws for the access panel with a socket wrench and remove the access panel. Detach the electrical connector from the fuel tank unit; release the quick-connect fittings from the fuel tank unit.

3

Turn the locknut counterclockwise with Locknut Wrench 07AAA-SNAA100 to loosen the it. Remove the locknut from the fuel tank unit; detach the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank.

4

Disconnect the bracket and O-ring from the fuel tank unit. Detach the fuel pressure regulator from the rest of the fuel tank unit and discard the O-ring.

5

Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil and mount the new O-ring onto the new fuel pressure regulator. Connect the bracket to the fuel pressure regulator. Align the marks on the fuel tank unit with those on the fuel tank unit and install the fuel tank unit.

6

Mount the locknut onto the fuel tank unit. Turn the locknut clockwise with Locknut Wrench 07AAA-SNAA100 until it locks into place. Attach the quick-connect fittings and the electrical connectors for the fuel tank unit.

7

Replace the access panel and fasten its retaining screws with a socket wrench. Replace the upper cross-member in the rear floor and install the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Installation problems with headlights can be a major safety issue because nighttime driving is nearly impossible when headlights are not working properly. Although some headlights can function after well over 1,500 hours of use, even a few minutes of driving without them can be a dangerous venture.

Installation Problems

When installing new headlights, sometimes one or more bulbs will fail to light up. A corroded socket is sometimes to blame for this kind of issue. By applying a cleaner made specifically for electronics, the connection can sometimes be revived. If not, you will likely need a new socket altogether.

Fuse Problems

Voltage issues will also prevent headlights from coming on. Fuses should be checked, and any blown fuse should be replaced. If the new fuse blows as well after replacement, the problem is likely due to a short somewhere in the wiring of the headlights circuit.

Charging Problems

If your headlights lose brightness each time you rev your motor, a problem is likely present somewhere within your vehicles charging system. A faulty alternator is an example of this. Checking your car batterys voltage can help as any voltage reading under 13 volts suggests that the charging system is indeed the problem.

The Chevrolet C/K series is a family of full-size pickup trucks that General Motors has manufactured since 1960. The Silverado was the top trim level for the 1998 C/K trucks, and General Motors upgraded it to a separate model beginning with the 1999 model-year. The 1998 Silverado comes standard with an anti-lock braking system (ABS), which allows the vehicle to stop more effectively under emergency conditions. The Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) controls the amount of braking force to apply to each wheel.

Instructions

1

Locate the EHCU in the engine compartment on the left side of the engine. It is the black box with four brake lines running to it.

2

Detach the connectors for the electrical wiring from the EHCU. Disconnect the fittings for the brake lines with a socket wrench and detach the brake lines from the EHCU.

3

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the EHCU bracket with a socket wrench and remove the bracket from the vehicle. Remove the mounting bolts from the EHCU and detach the EHCU from its bracket.

4

Install the new EHCU onto its bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 5 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the EHCU bracket to the vehicle and tighten the mounting bolts for the bracket to 33 foot-pounds.

5

Connect the brake lines to their original positions on the EHCU and tighten the fittings to 16 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the EHCU, ensuring the connections are secure.

6

Connect a TECH-1 scanning tool to the vehicles data link connector. Bleed the EHCU valve with three J-39177 tools and correct any ABS errors reported by the scanning tool. A professional mechanic would normally perform this step.

If you use your pickup truck for heavy hauling and dont need a full-blown commercial vehicle, a Tommy Lift gate lift is a useful accessory for elevating heavy goods in and out of the truck. The installation of a Tommy Lift gate is a bit technical. It requires some mechanical know-how as well as some automotive electrical work to power the gate.

Instructions

1

Recruit a partner to help with handling the heavy parts. Use an engine hoist and chain for lifting if you cant find someone to help you. Remove the tailgate from the pickup truck. Disconnect the safety cables on both sides of the truck door. If the door sits in a cradle hinge, position it at its halfway point of descent and lift it up to disconnect it. If it is bolted in, use a socket wrench and pliers to disconnect the door hinges.

2

Have your partner hold one side of the lift assembly while you carry the other side of the gate so it wont drop or be awkward to install. If you cant find a partner, use an engine hoist to suspend the lift until it is in place. Install the main door/ramp component of the Tommy Gate to the back of the truck by lining it up with bolt holes in the internal side walls of the end of the truck. Drill the holes with a power drill if they dont already exist. Use metal rods to hold the gate onto the truck until you are ready to insert the bolts -- taper pins work well for this purpose.

3

Connect the motor/pump assembly that comes with the kit. Lift the engine with both hands carefully as it is heavy and can hurt your foot or body part if dropped. Tighten the two long kit bolts per the kit instructions so that the engine is engaged with the gate mechanism. Bolt the engine assembly to the gate to keep it in place. Use vise grip pliers to keep the lift bracket and the truck wall together until youre done attaching the bolts -- this makes it easier to line up the holes.

4

Attach the hydraulic hose connections from the gate to the motor. Connect the drive part that pushes the gate up and down, as instructed.

5

Engage the electrical connections to the vehicle by connecting the red and black wires to the truck wiring for a car battery power source. Use a wire snipper/crimper tool as necessary with wire connectors to splice and attach the wires to each other.

6

Prime the hydraulic system with new hydraulic fluid. Make sure there is no air left in the tubes by keeping one hose open and draining it until all that comes out is fluid. Have the fluid pour into an old container so it doesnt contaminate the ground. Recycle it later on. Seal the last hose when the air is bled and complete the hydraulic fill by connecting that hose to its junction point right away -- otherwise air will get back in. Using a screwdriver, check all the hoses to make sure their connecting clamps are in place and tight.

7

Turn the truck on. Turn the Tommy Gate Lift motor on and test the gate. Make sure to run the gate at least five times up and down to make sure everything is working correctly. Rebleed the hydraulic lines and refill them if the motor works fine but theres not enough pressure to operate the lift.

The 4G63 is a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine that Mitsubishi has manufactured since 1982. It appears in a variety of vehicles manufactured by Mitsubishi and Chrysler, especially during the 1990s. The Mitsubishi Eclipse made from 1990 to 1998 is a common vehicle that features the 4G63 engine. The timing belt in this engine allows the crankshaft to drive the camshaft, keeping the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft synchronized so that the pistons fire at the correct time. A timing belt generally requires replacement after 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine accidentally. Disconnect the covers for the outer timing belt and remove the outer timing belt tensioner. Detach the outer timing belt from its sprockets.

2

Disconnect the outer flange and sprocket from the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Remove the spring for the inner timing belt tensioner from the water pump and disconnect the tensioner. Detach the inner timing belt from its sprockets.

3

Rotate the inner crankshaft sprocket to align the timing marks on the inner sprocket with the timing marks on the front of the crankcase. Install the new inner timing belt around the inner crankshaft sprocket so that the upper span of the timing belt is taut and the timing marks still align.

4

Connect the pulley for the inner timing belt pensioner and turn it by hand until the inner timing belt has a deflection of about 1/4 inch. Hold the pulley in place and tighten the mounting bolt for the inner timing belt pulley to 15 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Pull the inner timing belt tensioner toward the water pump as far as possible and fasten the mounting bolts for the tensioner with the socket wrench. Connect the spring for the inner timing belt tensioner to the water pump.

6

Remove the plug from the hole in the rear side of the cylinder block by the oil pump sprocket. Insert a tool with a diameter of 8mm into the hole to hold the oil pump sprocket in place.

7

Attach the outer crankshaft sprocket to the crankshaft with a socket wrench and align the timing marks on the crankshaft if necessary. Install the new outer timing belt to the outer crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Ensure the outer timing belt is taut except on the outer timing belt tensioner.

8

Align the timing marks on the crankshaft if necessary. Loosen the mounting bolt for the outer timing belt tensioner, allowing the tensioner to apply tension to the outer timing belt. Remove the tool holding the oil pump shaft in place and turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the camshaft sprocket forward by two teeth to take up the slack in the timing belt.

9

Fasten the lower and upper mounting bolts for the outer timing belt tensioner in that order. Adjust the tensioner on the outer timing belt so that the deflection of the outer timing belt at its longest span is about 1/2 inch.

10

Replace the covers for the outer timing belt with a socket wrench. Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery.

The Pontiac Bonneville has a window regulator in each of its four doors in order to open and close the windows. Since mechanical items always break sooner or later, if you own your Bonneville long enough youll eventually face a window regulator replacement job. While this isnt the easiest repair a Pontiac owner will meet, its not the hardest either. If you have basic mechanical repair skills and an hour of time on your hands, you can install a new window regulator in a Pontiac Bonneville.

Instructions

1

Remove the Bonnevilles window and lock switch plate from the door panel using the trim tool. Unplug each switch from the wiring harness by hand and place them aside.

2

Remove the screws holding the Bonnevilles door panel to the door skin using the Phillips screwdriver. Pry the door panel trim pins loose with the trim tool by inserting the head of the tool between the door panel and door, then working your way around the perimeter until youve freed each of the pins from their anchor holes.

3

Remove the door panel from the door by lifting up on it until it clears the lower edge of the window frame and then moving it away from the door.

4

Lift the Bonnevilles window to its full height by hand. Tape it to the top of the door with packing tape to give you clear access to the regulators mounting bolts.

5

Remove the two bolts holding the regulator to the window, the two bolts holding the regulator to the door and the single bolt holding the window motor to the regulator using the socket set.

6

Remove the Bonnevilles window regulator by hand. Position the new regulator and bolt it in place. Remove the packing tape and then reinstall the door panel in reverse of how you removed it.

As on any vehicle, the taillights on the Hyundai Santa Fe indicate turns and braking during the day, and they provide increased visibility for the vehicle at night. Without the taillights, at night vehicles behind you would only see the vehicle when the brakes are applied or the directional marker lights are turned on. Taillights are often taken for granted, since the driver cannot see them while driving. However, even a fairly new vehicle can blow a taillight out within a year or so, depending on its usage. Fortunately, replacing them is fairly easy.

Instructions

1

Turn off the engine and the headlights. Apply the parking brake to the Hyundai Santa Fe.

2

Open the lift gate.

3

Remove the two retaining screws on the side of the taillight assembly with the Phillips screwdriver for 2000 to 2006 models. Use the plastic pry tool to pry off the assembly for 2007 and later models. Wire harness connections are still attached to the back of the taillight assembly, so use caution when removing it.

4

Reach behind the taillight assembly and twist the taillight socket counterclockwise a quarter turn. The taillight on the Santa Fe is the light centered in the rear of the assembly. It is a dual-filament bulb that also contains the stop/brake light.

5

Hold the socket of the taillight assembly with one hand while pushing slightly downward on the bulb with the other hand. Twist the bulb counterclockwise a quarter turn to remove it from the socket.

6

Align the two small notches of the replacement 1157 taillight with the internal grooves of the socket. Push the bulb down into the socket, with tabs and grooves aligned, and twist the bulb clockwise a quarter turn to lock it into the socket.

7

Test both the taillight and the brake light before replacing the taillight assembly by reversing the respective removal procedure.

The BendPak equipment company was founded in 1965 under the name "Quality Machine and Associates." The BendPak name was introduced in 1979 as the brand for a hydraulic tubing bender. Since that time, the BendPak name has been applied to other equipment, including two-post and four-post hydraulic vehicle service lifts.

Floor

The specifications of the floor area are important for a BendPak lift installation. Vehicle lifts frequently hold several tons of weight, and an improper floor can cause a significant safety hazard. Before a lift can be installed, the concrete must be inspected to ensure it is free of defects or cracks. The floor must be level, it cant have more than three degrees of slope. The concrete floor is required to be at least four inches thick and must be rated for at least 2,500 pounds per square inch (PSI). New concrete must cure for at least 28 days before a BendPak lift can be installed.

Anchors

A BendPak lift must be securely anchored to the floor for safety. The holes drilled for the lift anchors are required to be 4 and a half inches deep, with a width of 3/4th of an inch. For these holes to be properly made, a hammer drill with a masonry bit is required. Metal anchors that are rated for use with concrete must be used. They must be tightened securely before the BendPak lift is used.

Air

BendPak lifts require a compressed air source at the installation location. A reliable compressed air feed is necessary to operate the safety locks of the lift. This compressed air must be regulated to a maximum pressure of 125 pounds per square inch (PSI). If compressed air at a higher pressure is used, the air lines and connections can be damaged.

Electricity

The installation site for a BendPak lift must be equipped with single-phase power. This electricity is required to be between 208 and 230 volts at 60 hertz. The electrical circuit must be set up for 25 amps. If several BendPak lifts are installed in the same facility, a separate circuit breaker must be used for each lift. Standard 110-volt power cannot be used for an installed lift; it will cause damage to the motor of the hydraulic power unit.