Repair And Fix it

A half dozen independent parts suppliers as well as Harley sell oil coolers for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The devices help keep the motorcycles air-cooled engine from overheating, especially for bikes that are improperly tuned, ridden long distances or are ridden in very hot climates . All these devices mount on one or both down tubes on the front of the bike. Heat radiates from the oil to the front of an oil cooler where it is dissipated by the wind. Oil coolers add about a quart to the engines oil capacity.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the crankcase into a pan as described in the owners manual for the motorcycle. Oil drains from most Harleys through a crankcase plug which you remove with a socket and socket wrench. A few models drain through a hose after loosening a hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and hand removing a metal plug.

2

Loosen the oil filter using an oil filter wrench. Remove the oil filter by hand and drain the oil in the filter into a pan. Replace the crankcase plug or reseal the drain hose.

3

Clean up all spilled oil with disposable rags. Properly dispose of the used motor oil and filter.

4

Loosen the oil pump hose fitting near the exhaust pipes with a box wrench. Unfasten the oil feed hose from the oil pump by hand. Unscrew the feed hose fitting from the crankcase and discard the hose.

5

Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant or equivalent to the two line fitting included with your oil cooler. Hand tighten the fitting to the crankcase and oil pump. Tighten the fitting to 60 inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Install the cooler return hose included with your oil cooler to the crankcase fitting by hand. Install the cooler supply hose for your oil cooler to the oil pump fitting by hand.

7

Unclip the clutch cable and wire harness from the left down tube. Remove the clips with pliers and discard. Attach the oil cooler clamps that came with your cooler to approximately the same spot on the down tube.

8

Attach but do not tighten the oil cooler to the cooler clamps with the Allen bolts and nuts in your oil cooler kit. Attach the return line to the right most fitting on the bottom of the oil cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver.

9

Attach the oil feed line to the left most fitting on the bottom of the cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver. Tighten both hose clamps.

10

Turn the oil cooler so it faces forward. Check for binds or crimps in the hoses. Tighten the cooler clamps to the down tube to 32 inch pounds of torque.

11

Clip the wiring harness and clutch cable into the oil cooler clamps.

12

Unscrew the cooler supply hose from the oil pump. Screw the return hose to crankcase and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

13

Screw the cooler supply line to the oil pump and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

14

Clip the oil cooler lines with the hardware in your oil cooler kit. Hand tighten a new oil filter to the filter mounting stud. Add the factory recommended amount of oil to your oil tank.

15

Examine the dipstick to and add additional small amounts of oil until the dipstick reads full. Start the motorcycle in neutral and check for oil leaks. Turn off the engine when the cooler becomes warm to the touch.

16

Re-tighten all fasteners to the specifications in your oil cleaner kit instructions when the engine has cooled. Reread the dip stick and add oil as indicated.

An engine mount strut bracket consists of several separate parts and components. Struts and mounts are the main components that make up the engine mount strut bracket. These parts help the engine run properly by connecting all components of the engine together so the parts can run in unison with one another.

Mount

The mount is usually made of steel or rubber. It is a connector piece for other components of the engine. According to the glossary on AutoZone.com, engine mounts include "pulleys, mounting plates, belts, and fittings necessary to mount a compressor."

Strut

The strut is the part of the engine that helps resist compression and in return helps strengthen the frame of the engine. According to the Glossary on AutoZone.com, struts "maintain the knuckle position and act as shock absorbers to control spring action in a vehicles suspension system." Struts that have failed or stopped working may cause the car to bounce around or shake while driving.

Safety

Consistent checkups on engine mounts and strut brackets can help minimize engine issues. Broken mounts can lead to leaks and punctures of the engine. Broken struts will keep your car from absorbing compressions, leading to flat tires.

Replacing an exhaust system with a body mount exhaust system is something that anyone with the right tools and a little know-how can accomplish. Many people take on this task to save money in labor costs, but if you dont have the right tools and knowledge you could end up doing more harm than good. Installing a body mount exhaust system is different from installing a typical exhaust system in the end, but they all start the same.

Remove the Existing System First

To be able to install a new exhaust system, the old one must first be properly removed. Tools ranging from a common wrench to a powered angle or disc grinder will be needed, as rust and corrosion of the metal parts and bolts that hold the old system in place may prevent removal with wrenches alone. Its typically much quicker, in cases where the old exhaust will be thrown out as scrap metal, to use a grinder wheel and cut the entire exhaust system into sections and remove them piece by piece, cutting the heads off of the connecting bolts if they wont turn out. Removing the old rubber bushings that stabilize the exhaust system is a priority as well, as newer exhaust systems, especially upgraded stainless steel systems, weigh more than mild steel stock exhausts.

Dry Fit the Body Mount Exhaust System

Once everything has been removed from the exhaust manifold back, the new system may be installed. To ensure that all the sections and pieces are the correct length and fit, a dry fitting, or "mock fit," should be performed before any sections are permanently attached or sealed. To do this, all sections and seams are put together without any seam sealant or bolts, and the entire exhaust system is put in place to make sure the end of the exhaust protrudes from the desired location on the vehicle. If it does, installation can continue. If there are any undesired angles or bends in the sections or layout of the system, they should be corrected before final installation.

Final Steps

When the body mount exhaust is ready to be installed, make sure that each joint or union between two sections is sealed properly and secured with the correct hardware. Newer bushings that are rated for the weight of the new system should be installed, and there should be the proper amount of the recommended sealant for the type of metal the exhaust is made of. Once the system is fully in place, the final tightening of all the support bolts and union ties can be done. But be sure that no twisting occurs in the piping system as its tightened.