Repair And Fix it

Close the petcock. Ensure the motorcycle is cold.

Remove the seat bolt and washer from the tab on the rear of your seat. Remove the seat to access the battery. Loosen the negative battery cable from the terminal with a box wrench and remove the cable from the battery.

Remove the center console. Typically, the center console is attached to the center console bracket with three Allen head screws.

Remove the fuel line from the petcock. Typically the petcock and fuel supply are joined by a hose clamp. Loosen the hose clamp with a flat head screwdrivers.

Drain the gasoline in your tank into an adequately sized, sealable, gas can. On models with dual gas caps, disconnect the crossover and fuel venting hoses in the front, middle bottom of the tank.

Remove the front mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with a box wrench and socket wrench. Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut.

Disconnect the fuel gauge connector on recent models. The fuel gauge connector is under the left side of the fuel tank.

Remove the gas tank from the motorcycle. Set the tank on a flat stable surface in a well vented place.

Remove the six Allen bolts and washers that connect the rocker cover to the rocker assembly. Begin with the front rocker box and work on one cylinder at a time.

Remove the metal D-ring if your motorcycle is equipped with an Evolution engine. Note the top, bottom and orientation of the D-ring. Completely remove the old gasket. Use a gasket scraper if necessary.

Examine your rocker arm housing. Rocker arm housings with only a partial inner lip require you to use an adhesive like high temperature rubber cement to properly install the new gasket. Rocker arm housings with a full inner lip do not require adhesive.

Apply adhesive if needed and properly place the gasket on the rocker arm. Replace the D-Ring on Evolution engines. Replace the rocker arm cover.

Tighten the Allen bolts in a cross pattern to 10 to 12 foot pounds of torque. Refer to the shop manual for your motorcycle and use the exact torque sequence and specifications described there.

Re-bolt the gas tank to your motorcycle. Reconnect the fuel gauge connector. Reinstall the fuel line to the petcock.

Reinstall the center console. Refuel the motorcycle.

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery. Reinstall the seat.

Open your hood and check the oil dipstick. See if there are remnants of coolant on the dipstick. Once a head gasket breaks, it usually causes coolant to filter into the oil, giving it a milky appearance. To be certain, drain some oil into a pan, place under light and see if there are spots.

Turn on the engine, leave it in park and walk to the back of your car to check the exhaust pipe. When head gaskets fail, the exhaust has a white color. Sometimes, there is a sweet smell coming out of the pipe.

Open your hood and use a flashlight to inspect the area around the engine block and compression cylinder. See if there are obvious cracks or coolant leaks that may indicate a bad head gasket.

Gently rev the engine while the car is in park. If your car feels like it may stall going back to an idle position, you may have a faulty head gasket. Once the head gasket fails, the compression may not be sufficient to keep the engine running. Try this method multiple times to get a better idea if you have a bad head gasket.