Repair And Fix it

Electric oil pressure gauges are easy for a DIY-mechanic to install, whether replacing a faulty oil pressure gauge, or a custom, after-market look is desired. Oil pressure gauges are designed to inform the driver when the oil falls below a safe operating level, or when the oil pressure is too high. Driving a vehicle without an oil pressure gauge can lead to catastrophic engine failure. Most oil pressure gauges come with mounting panels and the necessary installation hardware. The necessary hardware can be purchased from an auto parts dealer, if not included with the oil pressure gauge.

Instructions

1

Choose a suitable location to mount the oil pressure gauge; mount the gauge so it is easily viewed while driving. Common mounting locations for aftermarket oil pressure gauges include under the dash, on top of the dash, or set into the dashboard.

2

Mount the gauge panel to the dash with a screwdriver and screws provided in the kit; set the gauge aside. This makes it easier to connect the wires. If mounting the gauge in the dash, drill a hole in the dash 1/8-inch larger in diameter than the size of the gauge.

3

Remove the oil drain plug from the oil pan with a wrench and drain the old oil into a oil catch pan. This is an opportune time to change the oil filter as well.

4

Remove the old oil pressure sending unit with a ratchet and socket; the oil pressure sending unit is shaped like a cylinder and is usually located near the oil filter. Refer to the new oil pressure sending unit in the oil pressure gauge kit to help you identify the part.

5

Connect the signal wire to the sending unit and run it through a grommet in the firewall in close proximity to the gauge. Run the wire through the gauge panel hole, or the pre-drilled hole in the dashboard, allowing extra wire for easy connecting.

6

Connect the signal wire to the post on the back of the gauge. The gauge posts are marked for correct wire installation.

7

Run a power supply wire from a switched 12-volt power supply, such as the cigarette lighter, dome light, radio, or fuel pump, to the power post on the gauge. The power supply must be switched to operate on and off with the ignition.

8

Run a ground wire from the vehicle chassis to the ground post on the gauge; a poor ground can result in an inoperable gauge or false reading. Use an existing grommet in the firewall, or drill a hole in the body of the vehicle, and route the wire to the chassis or frame.

9

Mount the gauge into the gauge panel, or the hole in the dash, with the supplied mounting hardware in the kit.

10

Install the oil pan drain plug and fill the engine with oil.

11

Start the engine to check the operation of the gauge.

While many Ford vehicles are acclaimed for their affordability, performance and reliability, several of Fords models have become recognized for having electrical problems. The Ford Explorer, Focus and Ranger have a history of electrical system issues.

Ford Explorer

Auto-Facts.org explains that the 1994 through 1996 Explorers have experienced electrical issues that cause the keyless entry system to malfunction. The problem was due to improper electrical grounding that resulted in a faulty connection. Other common Explorer electrical problems include issues with interior lighting, automatic headlights and the malfunction of powered windows.

Ford Focus

On November 6, 2002, Ford Motor Company recalled 291,854 2001 Focus models in response to misrouted electrical connections between the battery and the engine. According to Automotive.com, the potential danger of this defect was that the battery cables might short, which could cause heat-related damage to the cables, making them nonfunctional. The vehicle could then smoke, fail to start or catch fire.

Ford Ranger

According to CarComplaints.com, the 1988 Ford Ranger started off the model series with electrical problems related to the cruise control surging while the vehicle was stalled. Ford Rangers continued to have issues with electrical systems in later models, including the 2007 model for computer problems with the check engine light.

The ignition system of an internal combustion engine delivers an electrical spark from a coil through a wire between the coil and the center post of a distributor cap. The spark then travels through a rotor on top of the distributor shaft and back through individual posts in the outer ring of the distributor cap, through the spark plug wires and to the spark plugs. If an engine does not start, or is constantly missing on one or more cylinders, chances are good that the problem is with the electrical spark to the spark plug. The only way to find the problem is to check the electrical spark at the distributor and coil, working out toward the plugs.

Instructions

1

Push the spring-loaded hooks on each side of the distributor cap down and turn them counterclockwise 90-degrees with a screwdriver to loosen the distributor cap. Lift the distributor cap off. Pull the rotor off the end of the distributor shaft.

2

Attach a jumper switch to the vehicles starter. Bump the switch until one of the lobes on the distributor cam aligns with the nylon cam follower on the ignition points. At this point the points should be open rather than together. Inspect the ignition points to ensure that there is no corrosion that will prevent electricity from flowing through them. If there is any corrosion on the points, replace them.

3

Slide a feeler gauge between the two open contacts on the ignition points. Ensure that the thickness of the feeler gauge is equal to the factory-specified gap setting. If the gauge does not fit between the contact points, or the gauge is too loose, adjust the points by loosening the adjustment screw, adjusting the mounting plate toward or away from the distributor shaft until you achieve the proper point gap. Tighten the mounting screw.

4

Inspect the rotor for burning or corrosion anywhere on the brass, mounted on the plastic rotor. If you find any burning corrosion, clean the rotor with a file or replace the rotor if the pitting from the corrosion is too deep.

5

Inspect the distributor for the same type of burning or corrosion. Clean or replace the distributor cap as needed. Reinstall the rotor on top of the distributor shaft. Reinstall the distributor.

6

Unplug the spark plug wires from the spark plugs by twisting them with a plug wire pliers and pulling them off the top of the spark plugs. Turn the vehicles ignition switch to the "on" position. Remove the thick black wire between the coil and the distributor, known as the coil wire, from the end of the coil. Hold the coil wire close to the coil with the plug wire pliers while operating the starter with the jumper switch. A spark should jump from the coil to the coil wire. If there is no spark between the coil wire and the coil, replace the coil and retest.

7

Plug the coil wire back into the coil and disconnect it from the center post of the distributor. While holding the coil wire with one hand and operating the jumper switch with the other, ensure that there is a spark between the coil wire and the distributor cap. If there is no spark, replace the coil wire with a new one, then retest.

8

Plug the coil wire back into the distributor. Pull one of the spark plug wires out of the top of the distributor. Hold it with the plug wire pliers and test as before. Repeat for all of the spark plug wires. If there is no spark between the distributor cap and the wires, replace the distributor cap and rotor, then retest.

9

Replace all the spark plug wires on the spark plugs. Start the engine. Remove the spark plug wires one at a time from the spark plugs and listen to engine performance. If an engine is missing, there is no perceptible change in engine idle when the plug wires removed, there is no spark between the wire and plug and there is a spark between the plug wire and the distributor, replace the spark plug wire.