Tuesday, April 8, 2014
How to Replace a 1993 Buick Century Fuel Pump
The Buick Century is a mid-size car manufactured by the Buick division of General Motors. The 1993 model belongs to the fifth generation of the Century, produced from 1982 to 1996. The engine in a 1993 Buick Century may be a four-cylinder 2.2L engine or a six-cylinder 3.3L engine. Both of these engines use fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump in the 1993 Buick Century attaches to the fuel tank, which you must remove in order to replace the fuel pump.
Instructions
- 1
Loosen the filler cap of the fuel tank and raise the the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump and lower the vehicle. Start the engine and allow it to run until the engine stalls. Crank the engine for three seconds to consume any remaining fuel in the fuel lines.
2Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle on jack stands and drain the fuel tank. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel tank, including the ground wire under the body of the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a jack stand and remove the nuts on the fuel tanks retaining strap with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank with the jack stand and remove it from the vehicle.
3Disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel pump by twisting it and pulling it off the fuel pump. Discard the fuel filter. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit and remove the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Pull the fuel pump from its mounting bracket on the fuel sending unit.
4Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel sender assembly between the mounting bracket and the pulsator. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel sender assembly. Place the fuel filter into position on the fuel pump and push the fuel filter until it is fully seated.
5Install the fuel sending unit onto the fuel tank and connect the fuel tank. Check the fuel system for leaks and connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench.
Monday, February 24, 2014
How to Change the Fuel Pump in a 1993 Dodge Spirit
The Dodge Spirit is a mid-size sedan manufactured from 1989 to 1995. Most 1993 models have a four-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine that uses throttle-body injection, or TBI. TBI is an early form of fuel injection developed in the 1980s that used low fuel pressure, typically in the range of 10 to 15 pounds per square inch. The fuel pump on the 1993 Dodge Spirit is integrated with the fuel sender into a single unit. The replacement of the fuel pump on this vehicle requires you to disconnect the fuel tank.
Instructions
- 1
Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an accidental spark from the battery. Drain the fuel in the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Squeeze the retainer tabs on the fuel supply line and fuel return lines. Disconnect these fuel lines from the fuel pump module.
2Remove the mounting bolts from the fuel pump module with a socket wrench. Disconnect the wiring on top of the fuel pump module, and remove the nut for the fuel pumps lower bracket with a socket wrench. Remove the hose clamp from the fuel pump, and disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel pump. Remove the clamp for the inlet hose on the fuel pump, and disconnect the inlet hose.
3Tilt the fuel pump to avoid damage to the float arm and fuel filter. Remove the lower gasket. Remove the fuel pump from the faceplate of the fuel tank. Remove the lower bracket and upper gasket from the fuel pump.
4Place the new upper gasket onto the new fuel pump. Connect the fuel pump to the upper bracket and outlet hose. Attach the hose clamp to the outlet hose. Place the new lower gasket into the lower bracket, and fasten the bolt for the lower bracket with a socket wrench. Connect the inlet hose to the fuel pump, and attach its hose clamp. Connect the electrical wiring for the fuel pump.
5Install the fuel pump module so the filter on the fuel pump module fits into the tray on the fuel tank. Align the bottom gasket so its holes align with the corresponding holes on the fuel tank. Attach the fuel pump module to the fuel tank by tilting it as necessary to clear the float arm and fuel filter. Use a socket wrench to fasten the fuel pump module to the fuel tank with the mounting bolts.
6Connect the fuel supply line and fuel return line to the fuel pump module. Install the fuel tank, and lower the vehicle. Fill the fuel tank with fuel, and connect the cable for the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.
Thursday, November 14, 2013
How to Retrieve the Trouble Code for a 1993 LS400 Engine
You can retrieve the trouble codes for your 1993 Lexus LS400 right from your home garage, saving yourself a trip to the mechanic. All you need is an OBD I scan tool, which is a hand-held computerized device that can be purchased from any auto parts store. This tool reads the trouble codes that are sent to the On-Board Diagnostics computer. These codes help you or your mechanic pinpoint the exact problem with the vehicle. Do not reset the computer until after you have had the vehicle serviced or repaired. Doing so could cause further damage to the Lexus.
Instructions
- 1
Open the fuse panel cover using your fingers and pulling in a downward motion. The fuse panel cover can be found underneath the steering column.
2Find the port in the fuse panel and plug the OBD I scan tool into it. Dont force it in because the pins may bend. Just twist it around until it fits properly.
3Turn on the scan tool. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Dont crank the engine.
4Select "Clear" on the scan tool to reset the codes.
5Unplug the scan tool, replace the fuse panel cover and start the engine. Verify that all service and warning lights have shut off.
Sunday, October 27, 2013
How to Remove the Catalytic Converter in a 1993 Ford Bronco
Catalytic converters are designed to capture particulates from the exhaust of your car or truck and filter them out so that your vehicle doesnt have poor emissions. Over time, they can go out and will need to be replaced, otherwise you wont pass your local emissions tests. Unfortunately, there isnt a bolt-in replacement for a 1993 Bronco, and you have to remove the old one by cutting it out, then welding in a new one. Cutting out the old one can be done at home with the right tools.
Instructions
- 1
Crawl underneath the SUV and locate the catalytic converter. Its shaped like a square with rounded corners, and is around the door area underneath the cab.
2Place the hearing protection, eye protection and gloves on. Then place the metal reciprocating saw blade in the end of the reciprocating saw. Cut the exhaust tubing approximately 2 inches from the end of the rear facing portion of the catalytic converter using the reciprocating saw.
3Cut the forward facing portion of the exhaust, about 2 inches in front of the catalytic converter using the reciprocating saw. When youre just about to finish the cut, move out of the way so that youre not underneath the converter, as it will fall to the ground.
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor in a 1993 Honda Accord
If the 1993 Honda Accord check engine light comes on and the car is using an abnormal amount of fuel, the car may have a bad oxygen sensor. The sensor in the 1993 Accord is threaded into the exhaust manifold, just beneath the engine compartment. Buy a replacement sensor from an auto parts store and change it at home to save on wasteful fuel expenses over time.
Instructions
- 1
Raise the Accord with a jack until it is high enough to place a set of jack stands underneath it to support it.
2Disconnect the wiring connection on the oxygen sensor by pulling the plastic connectors apart. Unthread the sensor with a wrench.
3Thread the replacement sensor by hand until it is just barely tight. Torque the sensor to 33 pound-feet with a torque wrench.
4Connect the wiring connection by pressing it together. The connector will click when it locks. Lift the car with the jack enough to remove the jack stands. Return the car to the ground.
Saturday, October 5, 2013
How to Replace a Power Window Regulator in a 1993 F 150
Ford offered a power window regulator as optional equipment in the 1993 F-150 trucks. The power window regulator replaces the manual window crank with an electric motor controlled by switches on the door trim panel. Failure of the power window regulator can occur over time because of poor lubrication that increases friction within the system. The friction leads to an increased load and insulation breakdown within the motor. Bad motors are not serviceable and must be replaced to restore power window function.
Instructions
- 1
Remove the power window control retainer screw from the window control and door lock switch housing, using a Phillips screwdriver. Carefully separate the window control housing from the door trim panel enough to gain access to the underside of the housing. Do not pull the housing any farther than necessary or you risk damaging the electrical connections at the control.
2Remove the three screws holding the window control and door lock switch, and the wiring in place under the control housing. Pull the housing off the controls. Feed the wiring and controls back through the control opening in the door trim panel.
3Locate the door trim pushpin on the trailing edge of the door trim panel toward the bottom. Carefully pry out the center button of the pushpin a short distance using a small flat-head screwdriver to disengage the pin, then pull the pin body out of the panel.
4Remove the screw located within the armrest pull using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the screw from the top forward area of the trim panel using a Phillips screwdriver.
5Remove the upper door trim panel from the door. Remove the five screws from the bottom of the lower door trim panel and map compartment using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the lower trim panel from the door if the truck has the two-piece Lo-Series trim panel.
6Remove the four screws from the bottom of the trim panel using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the panel from the door if the truck has the one-piece Hi-Series trim panel.
7Carefully peel the plastic water shield off the inner door panel. Place the water shield aside, adhesive-side up, in a safe place where the adhesive will not become contaminated with dust or grit.
8Disconnect the window motor power supply wire from the wiring harness within the door.
9Locate the drill dimples in the inner door panel over the two unexposed motor drive retaining screws. Check behind the dimples and make certain there are no wires in line with the dimples. Drill a hole through each of the drill dimples using a 1/2-inch drill bit and drill motor. Remove the motor retaining screws through the two drilled holes and the other existing hole over the motor drive unit using a ratchet, extension and socket.
10Push the motor drive unit away from the inner door panel to disengage it from the window regulator arm. Push the window to the full up position and prop it in place using a short wooden dowel. Remove the old motor from the door.
11Install the new motor in the door and engage it with the window regulator. Tighten the motor retaining screws to 50 to 85 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench, extension and socket.
12Apply two, 1-inch square pieces of pressure-sensitive waterproof tape over the drilled holes in the inner door panel.
13Connect the window motor power supply wire to the wiring harness. Remove the window prop dowel. Actuate the window motor using the window control, and check for full window operation.
14Inspect the door drain holes located at the bottom of the door; make certain they are open and free of debris.
15Install the plastic water shield on the inner door panel. Make certain the adhesive holds the shield firmly in place around the access hole in the inner door panel.
16Install the lower door trim panel and panel screws on two-piece Lo-Series door trim panels. Feed the power window control and door lock switch through its hole in the upper door trim panel, and engage the upper panel with the lower panel. Install the upper door trim panel screws.
17Feed the power window control and door lock switch through its hole in the one-piece Hi-Series door trim panel, then install the door trim panel screws.
18Insert the door trim pushpin body in its hole in the panel. Push the center button of the pushpin in to expand the pin and engage it in the inner door panel.
19Install the window control and door lock switch in its housing and install the three control-to-housing screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Install the housing on the door trim panel and install the housing retaining screw.
Monday, September 23, 2013
How to Replace a 1993 Corolla Timing Belt
The Corolla is a line of compact cars that Toyota has manufactured since 1966, and the seventh generation of this series includes the 1991 through 1998 models. The timing belt in this vehicle allows the crankshaft to drive the camshaft, and requires periodic replacement. A 1993 Toyota Corolla was available with a 1.6-liter engine and a 1.8-liter engine. The procedure for replacing the timing belt differs slightly, depending on the engine in your vehicle.
Instructions
- 1
Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack, and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the reservoir tank for the windshield washer fluid. Remove the right front splash shield, and remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Lower the vehicle.
2Loosen the mounting bolts for the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump when a socket wrench, if your vehicle is so equipped. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the alternator, and detach the drive belts.
3Detach the wiring harness on the apron of the right front fender. Place a wooden block on the floor jack to serve as a cushion, and support the engine with the floor jack. Disconnect the through-bolt from the right engine mount with a socket wrench.
4Raise the engine slightly with the floor jack, so you can access the pulley for the water pump. Disconnect the pulley with a socket wrench, and lower the engine. Use masking tape to label the spark plug wires. Remove the spark plugs and valve cover.
5Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench to align the timing marks. Align the crankshaft marks at zero; look through the oil filler hole on the pulley and make sure you can see the hole in the end of the camshaft. Remove the timing belt covers and front engine cover with a socket wrench.
6Disconnect the guide for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and loosen the mounting bolt for the idler pulley. Pull the idler pulley as far to the left as possible, and tighten the mounting bolt to hold the idler pulley in place temporarily. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.
7Hold the idler pulley in your hands, and ensure that it turns freely. Replace the idler pulley if it makes any noise when you spin it.
8Measure the free length of the tension spring. This length should be 1.453 inches for the 1.6-liter engine and 1.252 inches for the 1.8-liter engine. Measure the springs from the inside faces of the hooks. Replace the tension spring if it has stretched.
9Grip the hexagonal head of the camshaft with a wrench, and remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Turn the camshaft pulley clockwise with a hex wrench to align the knock pin on the camshaft with the corresponding groove on the camshaft pulley. Perform this step only if your vehicle has a 1.6-liter engine.
10Hold the crankshaft pulley so the flange faces towards the crankshaft. Align the key on the crankshaft with the groove on the crankshaft pulley, and slide the pulley onto the crankshaft. Fasten the mounting bolt for the pulley, and hold the camshaft in place with a hex wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley to 43 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.
11Install the idler pulley and its tension spring. Fasten the mounting bolt for the pulley by hand, and push the pulley to the left as far as possible. Tighten the bolt temporarily with a socket wrench. Turn the camshaft clockwise to align the hole on the camshaft pulley with the mark on the bearing cap. Turn the crankshaft clockwise so that the groove on the crankshaft pulley points straight up.
12Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft pulley, and attach the guide for the timing belt so the cup of the belt faces outward. Connect the number 1 timing cover, and tighten its mounting bolts to 65 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Align the groove on the crankshaft pulley with the zero mark on the number 1 timing belt cover.
13Turn the crankshaft pulley two full turns clockwise, and align its timing marks again. Tighten the mounting bolt for the idler pulley to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Adjust the tension on the timing belt by turning the tensioner with a socket wrench. The deflection of the timing belt should be between 0.20 and 0.24 inches when you place 4.4 pounds of pressure in the middle of the longest belt span.
14Install the number 2 and number 3 timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Torque the mounting bolts for the timing belt covers to 65 inch pounds with a torque wrench. Torque the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley to 87 foot-pounds.
15Complete the timing belt installation by performing steps one through four in reverse order.