Repair And Fix it

Harley motorcycles are usually designed to let you ride with your hands up and feet stretched out in front. One exception is the Sportster, which was born as a dirt track bike, and still usually locates the foot pedals, rear brake and shift lever right under the riders knees. However, most Harley riders think the feet forward, lay back position is a more comfortable position to ride in for long distances. The usual way to achieve that lay back position on a Sportster is with a forward control kit. Numerous vendors sell these and installation is straightforward.

Instructions

1

Remove the shift lever retaining screw on the left side of the bike with an Allen wrench and pull the shift lever off the shifter shaft. Unscrew the shifter peg from the lifter and save.

2

Remove the two socket head screws that hold the footrest bracket to the frame with an Allen socket and a socket wrench and remove the footrest. Plug the two screw holes with the plugs in the forward control kit.

3

Pull the retaining ring from the footrest clevis with a pair of pliers. Remove the clevis pin and the footrest from the footrest support. Save the footrest.

4

Remove the right footrest retaining ring with a pair of pliers. Remove the clevis pin, footrest and the spring washer. Save the footrest.

5

Remove the brake rod cotter pin from the brake rod clevis with a pair of pliers. Pull the brake rod out of the clevis and unscrew it from the rear master cylinder with your hands.

6

Unscrew the two right footrest/brake pedal screws with an Allen wrench. Pull the support bracket with attached brake assembly off the motorcycle.

7

Plug both of these screw holes with plugs from the forward control kit. Unscrew the J-clip from the bottom of the right front down tube with an Allen socket and socket wrench and save the J-clip and the two J-clip mounting screws.

8

Slide the new brake pedal assembly onto the footrest mount clevis. Insert the clevis into the footrest/brake pedal support bracket.

9

Align the holes in the clevis and support bracket tighten the locking screw with an Allen socket and a torque wrench to 20 foot pounds of torque. Reinstall the J-clip with two the mounting screws and an Allen socket and socket wrench.

10

Thread one end of the new, longer, rear brake rod into the rear master cylinder. Slip the other end of the brake rod into the clevis on the brake pedal support bracket and secure the connection with a new cotter pin from the kit.

11

Insert the male mount of the old foot peg and a new spring washer from the kit into the female mount of the brake pedal assembly. Push the clevis pin from the top down through the hole in female clevis mount. Lock the clevis pin in place with a new retaining ring from the kit.

12

Mount footrest/shifter pedal support bracket to the frame on the left side of the bike with an Allen socket, socket wrench and the screws included in your kit. Tighten the screws to 50 foot pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

13

Slide left foot pedal onto the shifter side clevis. Mount the clevis on the footrest/shifter pedal support bracket.

14

Align the holes in the clevis and the support bracket. Thread the locking screw through the hole and tighten the screw to 20 foot pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench. Push the retaining ring included with the kit onto the end of the clevis.

15

Screw the far end of the shifter rod to the shifter shaft with the Allen screw included in the kit. Screw the opposite end of the shifter to the shifter arm. Tighten both screws to 150 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

16

Spin the shifter peg into the new shift lever and tighten by hand. Insert the male end of the left foot peg and a new spring washer in the left female clevis.

17

Align the holes and push the clevis pin from the top down through the clevis hole. Lock the clevis pin in place with a new retaining ring

Wheel alignment is one of the important tasks undertaken during vehicle maintenance. It is the relationship of the automobile wheels to the vehicle itself, to each other and to the road. The main purposes of conducting wheel alignment is to ensure the vehicle is stable on the road, to reduce the amount of wear on tires and to produce the least amount of moving resistance. Incorrect wheel alignment can be very dangerous because it can seriously affect handling and vehicle safety. Wheel alignment mainly involves three major measurement angles: the caster, the camber and the toe.

EZ Line Laser Wheel Alignment Tool

The EZ Line laser is a tool kit used for aligning different systems such as wheels and axles of vehicles such as heavy-duty trucks and trailers. One of its main advantages is that it is compatible with vehicles that use toe settings. This tool kit comes with magnets which are attached directly on the vehicle system, a 32-inch measuring tape and two magnetic fifth-wheel pin adapters. It has the ability to capture measurements in less than ten minutes. If the laser goes through the center of the magnet when shot, then the automobile system wheels are properly aligned. If not, the same lasers are used to align the wheels properly.

Camber Caster Gauge

A camber caster gauge is a small, portable device that is attached at the end of the axle on a wheeled vehicle in order to zero out the measurement dials. It captures measurements of the camber and the caster of a wheeled vehicle. Camber ers to the tip of the tire and wheel while caster is the angle of tilt of the kingpin. When the caster is tipped toward the center of the kart, the measurements are considered positive; toward the front of the kart, the measurements are negative. As for the camber, if the kart is tipped toward the center, the measurements are considered negative. If it is to the outside, the measurements are positive.

Laser Wheel Alignment Gauge

The laser wheel alignment gauge is a battery-operated and portable device which is easy to use and calibrate. It has the capability of taking fast measurements from automobiles and has a calculator for converting measurements. It produces measurements of the combined toe angle with high precision. It constitutes the laser, laser target plate and a mirror. This gauge produces clear laser lines which ensure fast and accurate readings.

The engine accessories on the 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva such as the alternator, air conditioner compressor, water pump and power steering pump are all operated by one complete belt -- the serpentine belt. The serpentine belt operates each of the engine accessories by routing around all of the accessory pulleys at the same time. When the motor is cranked up, the serpentine belt turns around each engine accessory pulley at the same time. Look for any damage on the belt and replace it immediately if needed.

Instructions

1

Look on the top of the plastic radiator shroud and make a mental note of the location of the belt-routing diagram. The diagram is on the very top of the shroud. Refer back to the routing instructions from this diagram when putting the new belt around the pulleys.

2

Locate the self adjusting accessory belt tensioner on the front side of the motor. The tensioner is made up of two components, the spring-loaded arm and the idler pulley that is connected to the bottom of the tensioner arm.

3

Relieve the tension off the accessory belt from the bolt that connects the idler pulley to the tensioner arm. Pivot the tensioner in a clockwise direction with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket until the tension is off the belt. Pull the belt out from around the idler pulley that is connected to the tensioner arm. Release the tension from the breaker until the tensioner stops turning.

4

Unwrap the accessory belt from each accessory pulley. Pull the belt around the fan blades and up out of the engine well.

5

Lower the new belt near the fan blades. Pull the belt around each fan blade and route the belt around each accessory pulley by using the routing directions from the belt-routing diagram.

6

Pivot the tensioner in a counterclockwise direction with the breaker bar and metric socket. Pull the new belt around the tensioner idler pulley and set it inside of the pulley. Release the tension from the breaker bar until the idler pulley stops retracting against the belt. Pull the breaker bar and socket off the idler pulley and out of the engine well.

7

Look over the new accessory belt to ensure that it is completely inside of all of the accessory pulleys. Crank the motor for about 15 seconds to ensure that the belt ribs completely seat to the grooves of each pulley. Turn the motor off.

Vehicle sun visors come in various colors, shapes and sizes, and they may be equipped with a plain mirror, a lighted mirror or a transmitter. Due to their being flipped up and down and sometimes used as a storage shelf, sun visors take a lot of abuse. If your sun visor becomes damaged or you would just like to upgrade to a better model, with some basic tools and a little bit of patience, you can easily replace the sun visor in your car.

Instructions

1

Locate the sun visor mounting bracket in your car. Many brackets have a plastic cover that conceals the mounting screws.

2

Pry off the plastic cover with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the cover caully because the plastic is thin and may have hardened; it can easily crack and break.

3

Compare your replacement sun visor to your existing sun visor to make sure the mounting hardware hole pattern is the same. If your sun visor has a lighted mirror or a built-in transmitter, compare the wiring harness connections to make sure the new sun visor will be able to connect to your vehicles wiring.

4

Determine if your sun visor is held in place with Phillips or Torx screws. Use the appropriate screwdriver to remove the screws. Put the screws and the plastic cover in a container so they dont get lost.

5

Disconnect the wiring harness from the sun visor if the visor has power accessories.

6

Remove the sun visor caully from the headliner of your vehicle.

7

Position the replacement sun visor over the mounting holes and start the screws into the holes by hand. Once the screws are holding, tighten them with the appropriate screwdriver.

8

Connect any wiring harnesses from the new sun visor to the wiring harnesses on your vehicle.

9

Move the sun visor into all of its possible positions and verify that all electronic components work correctly.

10

Reposition the plastic cover over the mounting bracket and caully push it into place.

The Ford F-Series is a line of full-size pickup trucks in continuous production since 1948. The F150 models have a nominal carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton, although the actual payload is typically more than 1/2 ton. A 1989 Ford F150 has a variety of engine choices and all of them come with fuel injection. The procedure for installing a fuel injector in this vehicle will vary slightly depending on the size of the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the valve cap from the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line in the upper right quadrant of the engine compartment.

2

Attach pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Remove the pressure gauge from the relief valve and place the cap on the relief valve.

3

Disconnect the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel rail and detach the electrical connection for each fuel injector.

4

Remove the fuel injectors from the lower intake manifold by rocking the fuel injectors gently back and forth while pulling up. Replace any worn O-rings or plastic caps for the fuel injectors.

5

Apply engine oil to the O-rings and put them on the new fuel injectors. Place the plastic caps onto the top of the fuel injectors. Install the fuel injectors onto the lower intake manifold by pushing them in gently as you rock them back an forth.

6

Attach the electrical wiring to the fuel injection and install the fuel rail. Connect the upper intake manifold if you removed it in Step 3. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The EGR, or exhaust gas re-circulation, valve is a key part of your vehicles exhaust system. The EGR valve is responsible for making your vehicle run efficiently by optimizing fuel intake. The EGR valve re-circulates exhaust back into the engine. The first sign that your EGR valve may need to be replaced or cleaned is when the vehicle starts to idle roughly or does not accelerates as quickly. You can check to see if your EGR valve needs replacement or cleaning yourself, saving yourself a trip to the shop.

Instructions

How to Check a Faulty EGR

1

Put the car in park and engage the emergency brake. Start the vehicle and let it warm up for 15 minutes.

2

Pull on the hood release cable inside the vehicle to open the hood. Locate the EGR valve on the engine manifold. You may want to er to your vehicles manual for exact location.

3

Locate the EGR plunger mechanism, which controls the exhaust gasses being re-circulated into the vehicles engine. The plunger is located on the outside of the EGR valve.

4

Check the EGR plunger for any malfunctions by having someone rev the engine. If the plunger opens and closes quickly, the EGR valve is good. If the plunger does not open or close, or opens and gets stuck, the valve is faulty and should be cleaned or replaced.

Mufflers are in a precarious position. Located under a car, theyre vulnerable to bumps, rocks and road debris that can cause holes or other damage. If you have muffler problems, youll know right away because of the loud noise. Replacement is often the best option to restore your car to quiet operation. Before you can mount a new muffler, youll have to remove your old one. Fortunately, the process is not too difficult

Instructions

1

Prepare the car for muffler removal by jacking it up with a standard car jack or putting it up on car ramps. Since the muffler is located underneath the car, youll have to be able to access that area and move around well enough to do the required work.

2

Put on protective goggles before starting the actual removal work. A muffler can be rusty, and small chips can easily fly up into your eyes. Goggles will protect them from any debris that might fly around while you do the cutting and prying required to remove the muffler. You may also wish to wear work gloves to protect your hands from cuts.

3

Lubricate the muffler clamp nut with a coating of penetration oil, and apply the oil to the fittings as well. These parts tend to be dusty and dirty because of their position underneath the car, which exposes them continually to dirt. The oil will make them easier to manipulate and remove.

4

Remove the nuts that connect the muffler to the exhaust pipes. If the oil does not loosen the nuts well enough to be turned for removal, or if the muffler is welded in place, cut the connecting pipes with your hacksaw. Then, remove muffler nuts from the hanger using your impact wrench. Allow it to drop down so it can be loosened from the rear mounts.

5

Using the pry bar, complete the removal process by removing the muffler from the rubber straps that are keeping it in place. You can now take the car down from the jack or ramps.

As the engine in your Jeep Comanche runs, hot exhaust gases are expelled from the combustion chamber into the exhaust manifold. The gases are kept in check by a series of exhaust gaskets, most notably the exhaust manifold gasket. If the exhaust manifold gasket is damaged or leaking, the engine will produce excessive noise, and the exhaust gases will escape into the engine compartment instead of exiting out the tailpipe as they should. Replacing the gasket is fairly straightforward, and you will need only a few tools to complete the job.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of your Comanche and prop it open. Remove the negative cable from the battery by turning the bolt counterclockwise with the wrench.

2

Locate the exhaust manifold bolts and spray them with the penetrating oil. The bolts are usually corroded into place, so if possible allow the oil to soak into the bolts for a few hours.

3

Loosen the exhaust manifold bolts by turning them counterclockwise with the socket. Pull the exhaust manifold from the engine. Remove any of the old gasket with the scraper.

4

Coat the exhaust manifold bolts with anti-seize compound. Slide the new gasket into place between the exhaust manifold and the engine. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts by turning them clockwise with the socket. Start with the inside bolts and work toward the outside as you tighten.

5

Reattach the negative cable to the battery by turning the bolt clockwise with the wrench. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

Hydraulic power relies on the capacity of liquid to provide the power necessary to accomplish mechanical tasks. Hydraulic power is used today in a huge variety of machines, ranging from the heavy equipment used for mining and excavation to basically every car on the road. Pressure applied to fluid inside a closed system provides power that can be harnessed in a variety of ways.

Pascal

Understanding of hydraulic power existed well before French mathematician and physicist Blaise Pascals time. Pascal however, crystallized an understanding of hydraulic pressure that would pave the way for future inventions utilizing this force. Pascals Principle states that "pressure exerted on a fluid is distributed equally throughout the fluid." This means that because fluid does not compress, when you put pressure on fluid at one side of a closed system, it exerts that amount of force on the other side of the system.

Fordson Tractor

Hydraulics in the automotive industry started to take shape when a hydraulic system was first adapted for use in agricultural equipment. Automotive pioneer Henry Ford worked with Harry Ferguson to build the Fordson tractor, which was the first to utilize a hydraulic press. This machine used hydraulic power to lower and lift the various implement attachments that could be used with it. It was the smoothest and most efficient manner of moving heavy equipment on the tractor that had been developed to that point.

Brakes

One of the primary uses of hydraulic technology in cars today is in the braking system. The method of using pressurized brake fluid in a master cylinder to apply stopping power to the wheels was fully realized in America for the first time in 1922. The Duesenberg became the first car in the country to have hydraulic braking power for all four wheels. This technology has been adapted and advanced since then, but automotive brakes still rely on it.

Power Steering

Power steering is the other very important use of hydraulics in the automotive world, and the use of power steering makes it possible to maneuver everything from cars to large military equipment with much more ease. Francis W. Davis was the first to create a hydraulic power steering system in the 1920s. Hydraulic power steering systems started appearing more and more on commercial cars in the 1950s and 1960s.

Small paint marks are among the most common damages to automotive paint. Black marks on a white car especially stand out and can be made worse with the wrong technique. Knowing how to properly remove black marks on a white car can produce a great-looking finish without worsening the original marks.

Instructions

1

Sand the black marks with 2000 grit sandpaper and water until the black marks are gone. Keep the sanding surface moist. Dry sandpaper will damage the paint surface.

2

Wipe away any dust or debris with a clean towel.

3

Apply rubbing compound to the sanding surface.

4

Polish the rubbing compound into the sanding surface with an orbital polisher.

5

Wipe away any excess rubbing compound with a clean towel.

Replacing a blown fuse is the quickest and simplest fix you can do to your car. When a car accessory isnt working the first thing you should check are your fuses, as a broken fuse will result in some vehicle component not working.

Instructions

1

Locate your vehicles fuse box. Most vehicle fuse boxes are under the hood near the firewall, or under the dash. Consult your owners manual if you are having difficulty locating the fuse box and for the proper fuse ratings for your vehicle.

2

Open the fuse box.

3

Remove the fuse caully by using the fuse puller located in the fuse box. Grasp the fuse with the puller and pull straight out. If there is no fuse puller for your vehicle you can use a pair of needle-nose pliers.

4

Inspect the fuse. If the metal inside the fuse is separated the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced. If the metal is intact the fuse is still in working condition and can be reinstalled.

5

Replace fuse. If the fuse was blown, replace with a new fuse that is rated at the value recommended by your owners manual.

Volkswagen and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) issued a 2009 recall of 16,000 vehicles due to transmission problems. NHTSA began investigating the issue after hearing reports of power loss in 2009 and 2010 Volkswagen vehicles with DSG automatic transmissions.

Affected Vehicles and Reason for Recall

On August 20, 2009, Volkswagen and the NHTSA recalled Audi A3, Audi TT, Audi TT Roadster, Volkswagen EOS, Volkswagen GTI, Volkswagen Jetta and Volkswagen Jetta Sportwagen vehicles manufactured between September 2008 and August 2009. According to the NHTSA, the wiring harness of a temperature sensor in the vehicles direct shift gearbox could contain insufficiently crimped connector wires.

Risk

The improperly crimped wires could cause a temperature sensor to make a false detection of a high gearbox oil temperature, which could abruptly shift the transmission into neutral. In this case, the selector level position indicator within the instrument panel would flash and the "Depress Brake Pedal" indicator light would come on to tell the driver to brake, potentially causing a crash.

Remedy

Volkswagen notified registered vehicle owners of the recall by mail and, beginning on October 20, 2009, began offering free repairs. The NHTSA ordered dealers to reprogram the transmission control module with updated software free of charge. Concerned vehicle owners may contact the NHTSA or Volkswagen with questions.

An exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensor is a device used to measure a car engines air-fuel ratio. It often is used on high-performance vehicles, particularly those that have turbocharged engines.

Purpose

The EGT sensor monitors the temperature of the exhaust system of certain internal combustion engines, specifically those that are turbocharged for high performance, like the Subaru WRX.

Placement

The EGT sensor can be placed before the turbo, where it measures the temperature of air as it enters the turbine, or after the turbo, where it measures the temperature of the exhaust.

Importance

High engine temperatures in an engines combustion chamber can cause detonation, resulted in melted valves and pistons, and generally destroying the engine. The EGT sensor can warn the operator of dangerously high temperatures, thus preventing fatal engine malfunction.

Automotive rigerants are deemed air pollutants detrimental to the ozone layer that surrounds our planet. The ozone layer is thought to be vital to our existence. The release, discharge or venting of ozone-depleting gases is forbidden by law. Recovery and/or recycling of rigerant is also mandated by law. The methods used for this task are strictly enforced and all machinery and personnel must be certified by an approved provider. The certifications required vary by region or state.

Instructions

Recover Your Refrigerant

1




Allow the system internal pressures to stabilize by turning the A/C and car engine off. Open the hood and let the under-hood area cool to ambient temperature. Use a fan to speed the process, if necessary. Refrigerant pressure will lect ambient temperature. High temperature will keep system pressures at unsafe levels.

2

Connect the correct recovery machine for your rigerant to the system following the machine manufacturers instructions. The types of rigerants used in passenger vehicles are R134-a and R-12. They are not compatible and should never be combined in recovery apparatus, or in an A/C system. The manifold gauge set required to use some recovery machines must also be dedicated to the specific rigerant. Open the valve(s) of the service hose(s) according to machine instructions.

3

Activate the recovery process according to operation instructions for your recovery machine. Recovery will begin unless the recovery machine detects unsafe pressure levels. Continued cooling will be needed to reduce pressure in this event. The recovery process is accomplished in steps until the system is in a state of vacuum. The machine will cycle on and off until all trace vapors are removed and the system stays in a vacuum for a predetermined time. Completion of this process is sometimes indicated by a visual or audio signal from the recovery machine.

4

Close the valves on the service hoses and remove them from the car once evacuation is complete. The system is now safe to disassemble for repair. The recovered rigerant can be put back into the system from which it was removed, but any other use requires recycling. Recycling purifies the rigerant by removing foreign gases and liquids. Strict adherence to rules and regulations pertaining to automotive waste affords a safer and cleaner environment for all living things. Be responsible.

The Audi A6 Quattro is a sporty, four-door sedan known for its fuel economy. If you are having problems with your A6, there are several things that you can do before you take it to an import shop. Many quick fixes can be employed to get your A6 back on the road. Common issues affect the battery, fuel and cooling system. You dont have to be an Audi mechanic to get your A6 back up and running. You can do it yourself.

Instructions

1

Turn the key in the ignition to get your A6s instrument panel to engage. Look over the dials on the gauges and make sure that you have enough fuel to start the vehicle. If you dont have enough gas, fill the tank up and try to start the car again. If the instrument panel does not light up, you have a problem with your battery.

2

Open the hood with the hood release latch on the driver side under the steering wheel. Raise the hood and lock it in place with the hood rod. Check over the connections to the battery on the left side of the car.

3

Tighten the connections with a pair of pliers. Make sure that you dont have any corrosion on the battery cables. Clean the cables with soda and a wire brush to remove any corrosion.

4

Test the battery with a voltmeter to check its charge. If you have less than 11 volts running on your 12-volt battery, attach a battery charger to the battery terminals.

5

Leave the battery charger on the battery for at least 12 hours to charge the unit. Try to restart your car. If the car does not restart, replace the battery with a new one.

6

Locate the cooling system on the left side of the car if your A6 is overheating. This is labeled as "Coolant." Make sure that you have enough coolant in the system. Fill the coolant tank with 50/50 mix of coolant and water until it reaches the fill line on the side of the tank.

Harmonic balancers dampen vibrations between the crankshaft and the drive pulleys, keeping the engine free of excessive vibrations. Overtime, the harmonic balancer will wear, causing the crankshaft pulley to wobble. This causes the drive pulley belt to become unstable and possibly fall off the drive pulley causing your vehicle to lose power. The process of replacing a harmonic balancer should be a standard part of routine maintenance on your vehicle to prevent drive train damage.

Instructions

1

Open the vehicle hood. Spray penetrating oil on the center mounting bolt of the harmonic balancer -- located near the front lower section of the engine block. Allow the penetrating oil to sit on the mounting bolt for six to seven hours.

2

Remove the drive pulley from the harmonic balancer by loosening the tension bolt located near the alternator or on a dedicated tension pulley.

3

Match a socket to the size of the center mounting bolt. Attach the socket to a 1/2-inch drive ratchet handle. Set the direction on the ratchet to loosen counterclockwise. Slide the socket onto the center mounting. Loosen and remove the bolt from the end of the crankshaft.

4

Align the two outer bolts of a pulley puller with the threaded holes of the harmonic balancer. Turn the center puller bolt clockwise to force it against the center of the balancer. Turn the center bolt clockwise with a socket attached to the ratchet handle. Remove the pulley from the harmonic balancer after removal.

5

Align the new harmonic balancer with the crankshaft. Thread the center mounting bolt through the harmonic balancer and into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the center mounting bolt with a matched socket attached to a torque wrench to the torque specifications provided with the new harmonic balancer.

6

Attach the drive pulley belt to the harmonic balancer. Tighten the tension bolt to tighten the belt. Close the vehicle hood.

The camshaft is a shaft that holds the cam, the cam being a device that converts linear motion in to rotary motion and vice versa. If you are looking to change your timing or cam belt, or access a system near the camshaft, then you need a camshaft locking tool to hold it in place. Camshaft tools are vehicle-specific, so you need to ensure that you are purchasing the correct tool for the make and model of your vehicle.

BMW

The S85 Camshaft Alignment Tool Kit comes with a camshaft lock, and the camshaft lock fits between the sprockets of the camshaft, keeping it from moving. It has a camshaft locating kit to help you find the top dead center (TDC) camshaft position. This kit also comes with a BMW 115-381 gauge, BMW 115-382 gauge, timing socket and a timing pin, and this kit is designed for valve timings with the variable Nockenwellensteuerung (VANOS) timing technology, which was created by BMW. The S85 Camshaft Alignment Tool Kit is compatible with S85, S50B30, S54 and S50B32 engines. All of these tools are kept within a carrying case.

GM

The Ellient Tools Diesel Setting/Locking Tool Kit is a set of tools that you need to hold the camshaft in place and lock the flywheel. The flywheel stores rotational energy, and it will fight against rotational speed. This kit also comes with a tensioner lock pin, which helps ensure that the timing belt is set to the proper tension. The Ellient Tools Diesel Setting/Locking Tool Kit comes with its own carrying case, which is made of plastic. This kit is for General Motor (GM) 1.3 Clean Diesel Technologies Inc (CDTi) diesel engines.

Audi

The Camshaft Locking Tool by Assenmacher Specialty Tools, Inc., is for Volkswagen and Audi 2.0 Liter Turbo engines, and this tool is made of a solid piece of metal with two spokes. These spokes insert in to the sprockets and holds them in place. Use this tool in conjunction with Camshaft Adjuster Socket, Timing Belt Spanner Wrench and Tensioner Locking Pins when adjusting the timing belt.

Lisle

The Lisle LIS36880 Dual Overhead Cam Lock Tool is a universal tool that works with any engine that uses a dual overhead camshaft. This tool features two large, rectangular blocks at the end of a central shaft, and the blocks fit into the camshaft sprockets. Use this tool when changing the timing belt or chain.

A smog pump is a crucial piece of equipment used for helping to reduce emissions. It is one of the systems found in automobiles that helps fuel burn cleaner.

Air Injection

The smog pump is the common term for the secondary air injection system (or just air injection system). After combustion occurs, the exhaust gases must leave the combustion chamber through a port. The air injection system pumps fresh oxygen into the exhaust port, causing the exhaust gases (hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide) to continue to burn and theore deplete more efficiently. On some vehicles, it also supplies air to the catalytic converter. The system usually consists of an air pump, a diverter valve, an air distributor and a check valve.

Air Pump

The air pump is what creates the force of the air to push fresh air into the system. It is run by a belt or electric motor.

Diverter Valve

The diverter valve is used by some cars to keep too much air from entering the system when the vehicle is decelerating, reducing backfiring and limiting air pressure.

Air Distributor

The air distributor is known as the air management valve or air distribution manifold. This valve switches the flow of air direction to point toward either the exhaust manifold or toward the catalytic converter, depending on the operating conditions of the vehicle.

Check Valves

Check valves prevent exhaust air from flowing into the system and causing possible damage.

An E-ring, also erred to as an E-clip, is a metal clip that is placed on the two front tires of your john deere tractor or lawnmower. The purpose of the clip is to hold the front wheels to the axel spindles of the tractor. While these will already be on your tractor after purchasing it, you may have to replace a missing E-ring, or replace worn or damaged ones.

Tools

Before you can properly replace an E-ring, you will need both snap ring pliers and a screwdriver to help tighten and secure the E-ring to your John Deere product. In addition, you will need a company-issued plastic cap that will be placed on top of the E-ring to keep it protected from corrosion and other harsh elements. You will also need the actual E-ring.

Replacing a Missing E-Ring

Start by locating the center of the hubcap of the tire you would like to place an E-ring on. There will be a hole where the cap of the ring should be. Use your fingers to place the E-ring snugly into the space that connects the axle spindles to the front wheels of the vehicle. Once it is in place, simply rotate it clockwise until tight. You can use either snap ring pliers or a screwdriver to tighten the ring further. After the ring is tight, place the plastic cap on top of it, locking it into place to prevent wear and tear.

Replacing Old E-Rings

If you are planning on replacing your old E-Rings, you will have to first remove the ones that have either worn out or rusted. After removing the protective plastic cap of an E-ring, grab a pair of snap ring pliers. You will find two groves next to the E-ring. Place the ends of the pliers into these grooves and squeeze to pop the E-Ring out. Proceed as you would for replacing a missing E-ring.

Caution

While replacing an E-ring on your tractor is a relatively simple procedure, it is important to use proper safety precautions while you are working with heavy machinery. Always make sure your John Deere tractor or lawn mower is turned off while working on it. Even though the E-ring is not an electronic or motorized part of the tractor, the machinery can still move unexpectedly, potentially harming you and any one else nearby.

Mechanics begin by their careers by learning basic car repairs and routine maintenance. Changing tires, changing oil and completing tuneups are typically the first tasks they take on. A mechanic is expected to have his own set of tools. Start your automotive mechanic tool collection with the basics.

Wrenches

Wrenches are needed for almost all types of car repairs and maintenance. You should have a set of box wrenches, a set of socket wrenches in both fractional and metric measurements and an oil filter wrench.

Car Jack

You will need a car jack, jack stands or a set of ramps for changing tires, working on mufflers, changing brakes or any repair that requires access to the underside of a vehicle. Always make sure that the vehicle is secure before you begin any repairs.

Screwdrivers

A mechanic should have a complete set of Phillips and flat head screwdrivers in various sizes. Screwdrivers are used to remove parts of a vehicle when completing a repair.

Vice Grips

Vice grips can be used to loosen, tighten and remove vehicle parts. A mechanic should have a pair with a flat head and a pair with a curved head.

The Hyundai Accent is a subcompact car in production since 1994. The first generation of the Accent includes the model years 1994 through 1999. These vehicles have several different engine options, with a four-cylinder 1.5-liter engine being the standard. This engine has a single overhead camshaft, requiring a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt on the 1995 Hyundai Accent requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to avoid starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley. Disconnect the bolts for the timing belt cover and remove the cover.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The timing mark on the crankshaft must align with the timing mark on the front of the crankcase and the timing mark on the camshaft must align with the timing mark on the cylinder head.

3

Loosen the tensioning and pivot bolts on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Pull the tensioner towards the water pump as far as possible and tighten the adjusting bolt to hold the tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Disconnect the sprockets for the crankshaft and camshaft. Remove the flange for the crankshaft sprocket.

4

Connect the flange and sprocket to the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 51 and 72 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the camshaft sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 47 and 54 ft. lbs. if your vehicle identification number begins with a J. Tighten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprocket to between 58 and 72 ft. lbs. if your vehicle identification number begins with an E.

5

Turn the crankshaft and camshaft clockwise to align their respective timing marks. Place the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Install the back of the belt over the wheel for the timing belt tensioner. Turn the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to place tension on the timing belt and align its timing marks.

6

Loosen the mounting bolts for the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. This step allows the spring on the timing belt tensioner to apply tension to the timing belt. Insure the timing belt engages all of the teeth on the camshaft pulley.

7

Tighten the adjusting bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 15 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the pivot bolt to between 15 and 18 foot-pounds. Turn the crankshaft one complete clockwise to seat the timing belt and align the timing marks. Loosen the attaching bolts on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench to allow the tensioner to adjust the tensioner the timing belt. Tighten the adjusting bolts.

8

Adjust the tension on the timing belt by pulling the timing belt towards the water pump. The timing belt is at the proper tension if the timing belt teeth come halfway across the the head of the adjusting bolt for the timing belt tensioner.

9

Install the timing belt covers, crankshaft pulley, water pump pulley and accessory drive belts with a socket wrench. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal and check the vehicle for proper operation.

The Shovelhead was the best and worst of Harleys, built mostly when Harley was a division of American Machine and Foundry. The engineering was flawed and the assembly was mostly rushed. Yet the Shovel is the most nostalgically-remembered Harley because it was the last engine type before the motor company began marketing itself to the RUBs, the rich urban bikers who actually saved the company. Chassis parts, including shock absorbers, are still very widely available for all Shovels. Anybody will sell you shocks to fit any Shovel and they are almost always better than the originals. Start with new replacement shock absorbers.

Instructions

1

Measure the distance with a steel tape from the middle of the upper shock bolt to the middle of the lower chock bolt for both shock absorbers.

2

Measure the same distances again while an assistant who is about your size sits on the motorcycle.

3

Subtract the difference, which is called "the squat." Do not adjust the shocks if the distance is between 1/2 inch and 1 inch -- because those measurements mean the squat is just right. Adjust the shocks if the squat is greater than 1 inch or less than 1/2 inch.

4

Turn the mechanical pre-load adjusting cam on the bottom of the shock absorber clockwise, with a spanner wrench to increase shock absorber pre-load and decrease squat.

5

Turn the mechanical pre-load adjusting cam counterclockwise with a spanner wrench to decrease pre-load and increase squat.

A faulty head gasket can be a very serious problem for the health of an engine, allowing engine coolant to leak into combustion chambers and causing hydro lock. Hydro lock occurs when engine coolant enters the combustion chamber of an engine and cannot be compressed by the upward motion of the piston, usually resulting in catastrophic engine failure.

Instructions

1

Remove necessary parts, including the throttle linkage from the throttle body, air-conditioning compressor, alternator, power-steering pump, drive belts, intake manifold, intake manifold gasket as well as the exhaust manifold attached to the cylinder head with the faulty gasket.

2

Disassemble and remove the cylinder head by removing the valve cover from the top of the cylinder head with a box end wrench, then remove the rocker arms using a socket wrench and pull out the pushrods. Next, easily remove the cylinder head bolts and the head from the engine.

3

Place the new gasket on the engine block and place the cylinder head on top. Torque cylinder head bolts to 65 pound-feet using a torque wrench while making sure to tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern. Torque should be applied in 20 foot-pound increments to all bolts.

4

Reassemble engine components in reverse disassembly order, starting with the exhaust manifold. Replace all gaskets and tighten all fasteners using the torque wrench to factory specifications.

The Corolla sedan is a mid-size car that has been released by Toyota yearly since 1968. Since the 1990s, air conditioning (A/C) has been one of the standard features included with every Corolla model. Like all cars, things can go wrong, lines can break and become corroded and the A/C can stop working properly. If youre unsure whether the A/C in your Corolla works, you can test the A/C button.

Instructions

1

Turn on your Toyota Corolla and wait three to four minutes for the engine to warm up.

2

Push the "A/C" button, then adjust the fan strength as desired with the dial.

3

Determine whether the A/C is working by feeling the air coming out of the vents. If the air isnt cold within a minute or two, the A/C system in your Corolla needs repairing.

The 2005 Honda Pilot comes with special keys that include a built-in key fob for remotely locking and unlocking the vehicle. To work properly, each key fob has to be programmed to match a unique vehicle. The key part must be custom cut by a locksmith or dealer as the cutting is not the same as older Hondas and cant be cut by a traditional key-cutting machine. Blank Pilot keys are available through dealers or some auto parts suppliers.

Instructions

Replacing the Key Through a Dealership

1

Contact a Honda dealership parts department and ask for a replacement key.

2

Provide to the dealership the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and proof of ownership. The dealership will cut and program the replacement key to work with your vehicle.

3

Test the new key and fob to make sure it works properly with your Pilot.

Replacing the Key Through an Auto Parts Supplier

4

Purchase a replacement key from a parts supplier. Make sure the supplier provides programming instructions with the key in case the key has any nonstandard programming steps. If they do not, check the programming link in the article resources for instructions. The instructions are for a 2008 Pilot, but they should work for most Honda-compatible key fobs.

5

Follow the directions provided with the key. The directions will vary based on the key manufacturer. The directions will only be for programming the fob; the key will still need to be cut. Test the fob after programming to make sure it works with the Pilot.

6

Take the key to an automotive locksmith that provides Honda key cutting or to a Honda dealership. Provide the VIN so the key can be cut to work with your Pilot. The key is cut based on the VIN. Locksmiths usually charge a lower fee than dealerships to stay competitive.

The 1987 Honda Prelude might have a direct-drive starter or a gear reduction starter mounted to the engine. Regardless of the starter mounted on your Prelude, the differences are internal and the process for removing and replacing the starter remains the same. A starter turns the flywheel when you turn the cars key, and this helps your engine to start. When the starter fails, your Prelude will not start.

Instructions

1

Disconnect both battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal. Use a wrench to loosen the nut on the clamp, and pull the terminal off the battery.

2

Disconnect the large black and white cable form the starter motor by pulling it off the connector.

3

Remove the nut that holds the starter wire onto the starter solenoid. On the Honda Prelude, the solenoid bolts to the right side of the starter. The wire bolts to the top right of the solenoid on the gear reduction starters and on the bottom right on the direct drive starters. Use a wrench to remove the nut, then pull the wire off the solenoid.

4

Remove the engine wiring harness from the starter. Certain engine and transmission combinations have a clip that holds the engines harness onto the starter. If equipped, remove the harness from the clip.

5

Remove the two bolts that hold the starter onto the engine with a wrench, and remove the starter from the engine.

6

Place the new starter against the engine, and tighten both bolts to 32 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Reconnect the engine wire harness to the clip on the starter, if equipped. Plug the black and white wire into the starter motor, and secure the starter wire to the solenoid with the nut and wrench.

8

Reconnect the battery terminals, starting with the positive terminal.

Its important to replace your cars headlamp bulbs as soon as they stop working. Failure to do so can result in a ticket or, even worse, cause an accident. Replacing the headlamps on a Pontiac Grand Prix may seem intimidating to those who have little or no experience working with vehicles, but the process is surprisingly straightforward.

Instructions

1

Open the vehicles hood and turn the engine off. Wearing protective gloves, locate the metal retaining clip above the headlight and use a socket wrench to remove the bolt.

2

Pull up on the retaining clip while pushing back on the headlamp and align the marking on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp. Pull the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

3

Remove the bulb socket ring from the headlamp assembly by turning the ring counterclockwise. Pull the old bulb out from the socket and place the new bulb in.

4

Reinstall the bulb socket ring by placing it back onto the headlamp assembly and rotating it clockwise. Place the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

5

Push down on the retaining clip while at the same time pushing back on the headlamp to ensure that the headlamp assembly is secured into place. Place the bolt back into its initial position and securely tighten it.

The distributor cap is the cover that protects the distributor and provides a spot for each spark plug wire coming from each spark plug in the cylinders. The distributor spins underneath the cap, sending a bolt of electricity to each point on the distributor cap. The electricity then travels through the wires to the spark plugs. In the 1991 Accord, the distributor is a round shape and has four spots for spark plug wires, since it came with a standard four-cylinder engine.

Instructions

1

Prepare the old distributor cap for removal by unplugging the 2-P and 8-P connectors connected to it. Unplug the two hoses going to the advance diaphragm if your Honda Accord uses a carburetor instead of fuel injection. Loosen the three hold-down bolts on the distributor cap, leaving the spark plug wires plugged into it.

2

Coat the O-ring from the new distributor cap with motor oil using your finger. This is done so that the ring goes in smoothly and doesnt tear from friction.

3

Take the old distributor cap off of the cylinder head, and slide the new distributor cap on in its place. Make sure that the three hold-down bolts are lined up with their respective holes.

4

Unplug the spark plug wires from the old distributor cap, and plug them into the new distributor cap using the same position. If your wires are already unplugged, plug the wire coming from cylinder 1 into the spot marked with an "A" on the distributor cap. From there, proceed clockwise plugging in the wires from cylinders 3, 4, and 2 in that order.

5

Tighten the hold-down bolts, and reconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors to the distributor cap. Make sure the two vacuum hoses going to the advance diaphragm are also plugged in to complete the installation. If you need to, you can test and adjust the timing of the motor before tightening the hold-down bolts on the distributor cap.

The Chrysler line of cars, and the company that makes them, was named for Walter Chrysler, who introduced the first Chrysler automobile in 1924. In its long history, Chrysler has produced millions of cars, trucks and vans, and several companies manufacture tools designed especially for Chrysler parts and products. The American automaker headquartered near Detroit was ranked the worlds thirteenth largest vehicle manufacturer in 2008, with a revenue of $17.7 million.

Axle Seal Installer

The Miller Special Tools Company manufactures and sells the Axle Seal Installer Chrysler Dana MLR-5041. The installer is used with the 5041 Seal Installer and 8417 Adapter. The tools are used to install the right and left inner seals into the axle tubes in Chrysler models built from 2000 through 2002. The models are built with 248FBI axles.

SPX Miller Special Tools, a 95-year manufacturer of automotive parts as of 2011, is the primary supplier of specialty tools to Chrysler LLC.

Oil Filter Wrench

Assenmacher makes an Oil Filter Wrench M0284 for use on Chryslers. The wrench is also compatible with 2007 Sprinter, Mercedes and Jeep vehicles with V6 diesel engines. The wrench is 84 mm with 14 flats, and 22 mm hexagonal end.

Assenmacher, an independent company based in Boulder, Colorado, sells specialty tool for Chrysler, as well as Toyota, and several other domestic, European and Asian manufacturers.

Ball Joint Separator

Miller Special Tools also manufactures the Ball Joint Separator 9282, item number MLR-9282, for Chrysler vehicles. The tool is used to separate the ball joint from the knuckle on the Dodge Sprinter.

Belt Tension Gauge

The Owatonna Tool Company makes the Belt Tension Gauge C-4188 for Chrysler vehicles. The gauge is used to test tension on timing and fan belts, and to accurately calibrate the belts. The gauge measures tension in units of newtons and pounds, from 30 pounds to 180 pounds (130 to 800 newtons). The company also makes the gauge for Ford, Rotunda, Hummer and General Motors. The Owatonna Tool Company, formed in 1925, is based in Owatonna, Minnesota, and is best known for its pullers and presses.

Belt Tension Socket Wrench

Kent-Moore builds a Belt Tension Socket Wrench for Chrysler vehicles. The wrench, part number 09244-28100, also works with the 1991 to 1995 Elantra, the 1991 to 1998 Sonata, the 2000 and newer XG300 and XG350, and the 2001 and newer Santa Fe. Kent-Moore is part of SPX Service Solutions, and manufactures tools for service professionals.

Heritage Softails come equipped from the factory with a light bar. Well known aftermarket vendors like Kuryakyn and Harley-Davidson sell bolt-on auxiliary lighting for Softails. The extent to which extra lights brighten the road is open to debate. Many jurisdictions mandate that the extra light be turned off when the headlight is switched to high beam. But it is undeniable that the extra lights make the motorcycle brighter and make it, and the rider, easier to spot.

Instructions

EFI Fuel Tank Removal

1

Ride the motorcycle until the gas tank is almost empty.

2

Pull off the electrical caddy cover, on the right side of the motorcycle, with your hands. Pull the fuel pump fuse out of the fuse array with a fuse puller.

3

Run the engine until it dies. Push the starter button for another three or four seconds.

4

Pull both ends of the quick connect fitting under the gas tank in opposite directions until the two halves of the fitting come apart.

5

Loosen the screw that holds the rear fender and the seat together with a Phillips head screwdriver. Lift off the seat.

6

Loosen the black battery cable with a combination wrench. Pull the cable from the negative terminal.

7

Loosen and remove the nut in the middle of the instrument panel with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Pull the instrument panel up and pull the male and female halves of the fuel pump module connector apart.

8

Plug the end of a short length of 5/16 inch diameter, rubber hose with a bolt of the same size. Secure the bolt in the hose with a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

9

Place a 5 gallon gas can next to the motorcycle. Sever the clamp on either end of the crossover fuel line with metal shears.

10

Pull the loose end of the crossover line off the tank fitting and immediately replace it the open end of the 5/16 inch hose. Drain the crossover line into the 5 gallon can.

11

Clean up spillage with rags and remove the rags from the work location. Set the can aside.

12

Unplug the crossover and vent lines from the bottom of the tank. Unbolt both the front and rear mounting bolts, washers and nuts with a combination wrench. Unplug the male and female halves of the fuel gauge wiring plug.

13

Pull the tank off the motorcycle with your hands.

Auxiliary Lighting Installation

14

Attach the right and left light bar mounting clamps in the accessory lighting kit to the two fork tubes using the Allen screws in the kit and an Allen socket. Tighten both screws to 75 inch pounds of torque with the Allen socket and a torque wrench.

15

Thread the wires from the accessory lights through the holes in the mounting brackets and fasten the lights to the brackets with the washers, retainers and clamp blocks included with the kit. Tighten the retainers of 19 pounds with an open end socket and torque wrench.

16

Slip the inner nesting rings in the lighting kit onto the light bulbs in the kit. Lock the black wires to the black terminals next to the indexing tabs and the grey wires to the grey terminals.

17

Install the accessory light bulbs into the chrome trim rings using the screws included with the kit and a screwdriver. Thread the light wires through the chrome tubes in the kit.

18

Place the accessory lights wiring harness in the shallow pan that holds the seat. Stretch the longest wires along the backbone of the frame to the steering head.

19

Remove the hex nut from the ground wire stud with a combination wrench. Slide the ground wire ring from the accessory lighting wiring harness onto the stud and replace the nut.

20

Snap the white wiring harness connector into the "B" positive connector on the accessory lighting wire harness.

21

Tie the accessory harness to the main wiring harness with the cable ties included with the accessory lighting kit.

22

Stretch the longest wires in the auxiliary harness past the steering head. Route the light switch wires up the triple trees and across the left handlebar to the clutch lever cover.

23

Disassemble the chrome, switch mounting bracket with a Torx driver, install the light switch and reassemble the mounting bracket.

24

Remove the lower screw from the clutch lever housing with a Torx driver. Put the switch bracket tab over the hole and reinstall the screw. Tighten to 68 inch pounds using a torque wrench and Torx socket.

25

Push the light switch wiring harness into the handlebar wiring retainers. Remove the trim ring from the headlight with a Phillips head screwdriver.

26

Unplug the connector block from the headlight prongs. Unwrap the waterproof boot from the rear of the headlight.

27

Squeeze and remove the retaining clip from the headlamp assembly. Twist the clip away from the headlamp and remove the headlamp bulb.

28

Push the end of the light switch wire through the rubber ring in the headlight housing. Splice the switch wire to the yellow headlight wire using the crimp connecter in the lighting kit and a pair of pliers.

29

Replace the headlight bulb in the headlight housing.

30

Slip heat shrinkable tubing from the kit over the white wire in the accessory wiring harness. Strip the insulation from the end 1/4 inch of the two auxiliary lights power wires with a wire stripper.

31

Splice all three wires with the three-way tube connector in the kit using a crimping tool. Cover the connector with the heat shrink tube and heat with a heat gun until the tube shrinks around the splice.

Final Assembly

32

Secure all loose wires with the clips included in the kit.

33

Reattach the gas tank. Refuel the motorcycle.

34

Reconnect the black battery cable. Replace the fuel pump fuse.

35

Reattach the electrical caddy cover and seat.

Fords manufactured before 1996 come equipped with a first-generation On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD-I) that retrieves and stores all error codes sent to it from various sensors throughout the vehicle. When these sensors detect a malfunction, they send the trouble code to the Fords computer, which turns on the vehicles warning and service lights. You can pull these codes right at home using a small device known as an OBD-I code reader, which you can purchase at any auto-parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagnostic port on the drivers-side dash near the steering column. The port will be the same size and shape as the connector end of the OBD-I code reader.

2

Plug the code reader into the port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, but dont crank the engine.

4

Wait for the code reader to power on. Some readers have to be turned on, so you may have to find the "on/off" switch.

5

Select the command on the reader that says "Retrieve Codes" or something similar (the command will vary by brand). Wait while the code reader interfaces with the vehicles computer, then write the codes down on a piece of paper.

6

Look up the codes in the scanner manual. Unplug the reader and have the vehicle serviced or repaired based on the diagnosis obtained from the codes you retrieved.

Exterior car windows are held on by a few screws. The most time-consuming part of this task is accessing these screws and the electrical connector if you are replacing a power mirror. Though the procedure for replacing exterior mirrors is nearly identical for all vehicles, you may need different tools depending on what types of screws and panel fasteners your car has.

Instructions

Removing the Old Mirror

1

Remove the mirror trim panel. It is the triangle-shaped panel located on the inside of your door, directly opposite of the exterior side mirror. Youll need a special door trim removal tool to do this on some cars, but you may be able to remove some panels with just a screwdriver.

2

Remove the entire door panel if necessary. Youll only have to do this for cars with power windows because youll have to disconnect the electrical connector that may be located behind the door panel. It may take some time to find all the door panel fasteners, and as with the mirror trim panel, you may need a specialized door panel removal tool. The screws may also be hidden behind small decorative panels. These usually snap right off of the panel.

3

Unscrew the screws that secure the mirror from the interior side of the door. The screws are located behind the mirror trim panel you removed. There are usually three of them and they may have a Phillips, hex or Torx head.

4

Disconnect the electrical connector if you are replacing a power mirror. If the connector was not accessible when you removed the mirror trim panel, follow the wiring from the mirror until you find the connector.

5

Remove the mirror by pulling it away from the door.

Installing the New Mirror

6

Put the new mirror in place, and install the retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver, Torx driver or hex driver, depending on the screw heads.

7

Reconnect the electrical connector, if necessary.

8

Reinstall the door panel (if you removed it) and mirror trim panel. Push the panel into place. Some fasteners will probably snap to fasten, then install any screw fasteners you removed. Lastly, if you have removed any covers to hide screws, snap these back into place.

The General Electric (GE) Company is an American company, headquartered in New York, which started in 1892. The company specializes in technology, energy, capital finance and consumer products and solutions. It also creates engines for transportation equipment, including trains. The GE ES44DC is an engine car created by Cooper Bessemer for the GE Company. GE started producing this engine in 2003.

Dimensions

The dimensions of the GE ES44DC are 73 feet 2 inches long by 15 feet 6.5 inches high to the top of the hood. To the top of the cab, the engine is 15 feet 4.5 inches high, and the cab width is 10 feet 3 inches wide. The hood is 9 feet 11 inches wide, and the walkway is 5 feet 5 inches wide. The truck wheel base is 13 feet 2 inches wide, and the wheel diameter is 3 feet 5 inches. The center bolster is 53 feet, and the total distance between the truck center is 66 feet 2 inches. The trailing edge from the rear truck to rear pilot is 1 foot 7.5 inches, and the leading edge from the front truck to front pilot is also 1 foot 7.5 inches. The engine weighs 416,000 pounds (lbs).

Tanks

The fuel oil tanks can hold up to 5,000 gallons of fuel oil, and the lubricating oil tank holds up to 450 gallons. The total sand capacity is 40 cubic feet (ft3), and the engine cooling water tank holds up to 450 gallons.

Power

The GE ES44DC features a four cycle, GEVO 12 model engine, which generates up to 4,400 horsepower (hp). The minimum revolution per minute (rpm) is 450, and the maximum rpm is 1,050. It moves up to 70 miles per hour (mph), and its gear ratio is 53:20. The engine bore is 9.8 inches, and the engine stroke is 12.6 inches. The engine bore is the diameter of the cylinders, and the stroke is the total length that the pistons move.

Features

This engine comes with six GE 752AH traction motors and dynamic braking. It features Westinghouse model 26L air brakes and a model 3CDC air compressor, and it comes with two Koppers 872-22 tractor motor blowers. The tractive effort is the pulling force of the engine. The starting tractive effort is total force produced at a dead start, and this is 142,000 lbs at 25 percent. The continuous tractive effort is the total amount of force at a certain velocity, and this measurement is 109,000 lbs at 13.7 mph.

While many Ford vehicles are acclaimed for their affordability, performance and reliability, several of Fords models have become recognized for having electrical problems. The Ford Explorer, Focus and Ranger have a history of electrical system issues.

Ford Explorer

Auto-Facts.org explains that the 1994 through 1996 Explorers have experienced electrical issues that cause the keyless entry system to malfunction. The problem was due to improper electrical grounding that resulted in a faulty connection. Other common Explorer electrical problems include issues with interior lighting, automatic headlights and the malfunction of powered windows.

Ford Focus

On November 6, 2002, Ford Motor Company recalled 291,854 2001 Focus models in response to misrouted electrical connections between the battery and the engine. According to Automotive.com, the potential danger of this defect was that the battery cables might short, which could cause heat-related damage to the cables, making them nonfunctional. The vehicle could then smoke, fail to start or catch fire.

Ford Ranger

According to CarComplaints.com, the 1988 Ford Ranger started off the model series with electrical problems related to the cruise control surging while the vehicle was stalled. Ford Rangers continued to have issues with electrical systems in later models, including the 2007 model for computer problems with the check engine light.

An auto shop contains safety hazards that range from tools to chemicals. Additionally, when power equipment is used in the shop, noise issues arise. Safety issues concern not only the materials and equipment inside the shop, but also the behavior of the workers, and also the automobile owners who may enter the shop. The Occupational Health & Safety Organization (OSHA) has standards that cover the health and safety issues facing auto body repair and finishing shops.

Employee Behavior

The work habits and behavior of the mechanics and other shop workers are paramount to shop safety. All workers should be thoroughly familiar with the shops safety rules. Employees should be trained on any equipment they use before they use it, and avoid using damaged or defective equipment. Common sense should always be used --- workers must avoid loose clothing, shun horseplay, and avoid smoking around flammable materials. Also, workers should not attempt any repair or lifting that is too dangerous or heavy for them to accomplish alone.

Hazardous Materials

Auto shops contain dangerous chemicals and materials, including oils, solvents, antifreeze, and gasoline. Flammable items should be stored in a safe area, such as a flammables storage room or a metal cabinet that is vented to the outside. Also, containers and cabinets should be correctly labeled with the contents they hold inside, and the specific hazards that the contents pose. The container lids should also be closed tightly. Material Safety Data Sheets must be available for all toxic chemicals in the shop.

Personal Protective Equipment

OSHA guidelines covering personal protective equipment maintain that reliable, required equipment must be available in the shop when workers need it. It must also be maintained in a sanitary condition. In an auto shop, this equipment includes an OSHA-approved mask, for respiratory protection; ear protection for when loud tools are being used; eye protection, for work underneath the vehicle or with automotive components that may endanger the sight; and gloves, to protect the hands when handling chemicals or automotive parts.

Shop Cleanliness

Daily, ongoing efforts should be routine to maintain the shop as a clean and safe work environment. Walkways should be kept clear of equipment and any equipments electrical cords. If there is an oil or grease spill, it should be immediately cleaned up. Also, the floor itself must be slip-resistant, composed of noncombustible material, and sealed. The shop lighting should be sufficient for mechanics to work comfortably, without strain.

According to Precote.com, liquid thread coating is the application of a sealant, lubricant or anti-corrosion chemical to the threads of screws, nuts and bolts. Liquid thread coatings are used by automotive manufacturers, the airline industry, railway companies, shipyards and nearly every manufacturing industry. Liquid thread coatings can be applied during the manufacturing process or after-market to the threads of screws, nuts and bolts.

Liquid Nylon

Liquid nylon provides a number of benefits when applied to part threads and works well on both iron and non-iron metal threads, such as steel, aluminum, brass and stainless steel threads. A thin layer of liquid nylon protects threads from wear, friction and corrosive elements and inhibits electrical conductivity. The nylon remains intact in both high heat and freezing temperatures.

Wax

Wax-based liquid thread coatings serve primarily as a thread lubricant. Wax-based liquid coatings are applied to nut, bolt and screw threads to make assembly smoother and to avoid cross-threading or sticking threads. The liquid wax is sprayed on the part or the part is dipped in the wax by a machine, or the wax can be applied by hand. New threaded parts may be coated with liquid wax lubricant at the end of the manufacturing process.

Teflon

Liquid Teflon is often applied to threaded parts as a sealant and to help reduce wear caused by friction. Liquid Teflon is typically used on screws, nuts and bolts that are subjected to vibration, such as those used in refrigeration units and manufacturing environments. Liquid Teflon thread lubrication applications may contain other chemicals, such as polytetrafluoroethylene that increase the efficiency of Teflon lubrication. Teflon is used on metal, plastic and fiberglass parts.

Fluoro-Carbon Coating

Liquid fluoro-carbon thread coatings prevent threads from damage during assembly of parts by lubricating the threads. Fluoro-carbon thread coating is often used on part threads if the final product will be painted before or after assembly. Once dry, the fluoro-carbon coating resists paint. Fluoro-carbon coatings also resist electroplated paints and primers.

Lifters in a car engine are part of the valve train, which operates the opening and closing mechanisms of the cylinders intake and exhaust valves. As the name suggests, they are the parts that physically lift and lower the plungers that allow the cylinder to "breathe."

Types of Lifters

Lifters fall into three types: hydraulic, mechanical and roller. Hydraulic lifters, the most common, are filled with engine oil that pushes the lifter plunger up and down as it is compressed by the camshaft. Mechanical lifters are fixed metal pieces that push the lifter plunger as the camshaft moves. Roller lifters contain a roller in conjunction with either a hydraulic or mechanical mechanism to reduce friction.

96 Honda Lifters

The lifters in a 96 Honda engine are hydraulic. The number of lifters in the engine depends on the Honda model and engine size in question.

Honda VTEC

In 1989, Honda introduced a more efficient valve train mechanism called VTEC with an extra specially adapted cam and pin attached to each pair of lifters. The cam pushes the lifters to open the valves further at higher engine speeds to increase engine performance.

Replacement Lifters

Replacement OEM (original equipment manufacturer) lifters and other parts for the valve train are readily available. Mechanics may also be able to suggest alternative parts that should work just as well.

The firewall in a 1998 Toyota Tercel is designed to protect the passengers from an engine fire. When you are building your own car stereo system for your Toyota Tercel, the firewall has small plugs that can be punctured to run wires through. In order to find these small plugs, you have to locate them on the firewall.

Instructions

1

Pop the Tercels hood by pressing the hood button inside the car.

2

Look inside the cars hood. Look for the large firewall, a large rectangle with rounded corners, behind the engine and just before the Tercels cab.

3

Find the rubber plug jetting out off the right side of the firewall. There will be only one plug coming out of the right side of the firewall. This is the firewall plug.

The tie-rod ball-joint boot on your Honda Civic is what keeps dust, dirt, and other contaminants out of the inside of the ball joint. This is important, because multipurpose grease for lubrication that needs to be kept free of dust is in the ball joint . However, these boots can become torn, cracked, or develop holes. When this happens, you need to replace the boots on your Honda Civic.

Instructions

1

Pull the boot off the tie-rod end. Wipe all of the old grease off of the ball joint with a clean rag.

2

Pack fresh, clean multipurpose grease into the lower area of the ball pin.

3

Fill the new boot with clean multipurpose grease. Ensure you have grease on the lip of the boot. Ensure no dust, dirt, or foreign matter gets into the grease.

4

Replace the new boot using the special tool 07QAD-P0A0100. Make sure there is no gap in the boot installation sections. Check the tapered section of the ball pin for grease, and wipe it away if any is present.

All motor vehicles are assigned a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). This VIN is a series of letters and numbers that when decoded reveals information about the vehicles make, features, manufacturer and origin. Knowing the breakdown of your VIN is helpful when you need replacement parts for your vehicle. The number is used by vehicle vendors and shops to determine the specific parts you need for your vehicle. Decoding a VIN is simple once you understand what each character means.

Instructions

1

Find your vehicles VIN. It can be found on the drivers side, either on the dashboard, door frame or on the edge of the door itself. The VIN is 17 digits long and Manual added on a metal plate that will be affixed to the vehicle, which will make it easy to identify once located.

2

Note the second figure of the VIN. This specific letter or number represents the vehicles manufacturer. For instance, a Cadillac has a "6," BMW "B," Toyota "T," Chevrolet "1," Dodge "B," Nissan "N" and Honda "H." This will help the shop or auto parts store determine the make of your car.

3

The third character represents the vehicle type or its manufacturing division. For instance, it can be a coupe, hatchback, convertible or pickup truck. This will identify your cars body type and aid in determining the appropriate replacement parts for your specific vehicle.

4

Notice the fourth through eighth figures of your VIN. These five characters represent your vehicles specific characteristics such as the body style, model, engine type and series. For instance, for BMWs, these characters will determine if your car is a 3, 5 or 7 series, and also reveal the type of engine you have (V-8, V-12). However, each manufacturer sets the meaning for these characters according to the specific make.

5

Look at the 10th figure of your VIN to see the code for your vehicles year. Vehicles dated prior to 2001 will reflect a letter and thereafter would reflect a number. For instance, vehicles made in 1981 will show a letter "B," 1982 a "C," and so on. Starting in 2001 this character is a number. For example, vehicles made in 2001 have a "1," 2002 "2" and 2009 "9." This will help the shop, mechanic or website where you are looking for parts to determine the year model of your car and the parts that are suitable for your specific vehicle.

A window stop is a component found within the door panel of each car door on your vehicle. Its purpose is to stop the window when its in the down position. If the window stop needs to be replaced, the window will not automatically stop in the correct position when being rolled down. With the proper tools and instruction, you can replace a broken window stop in your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Locate the screws holding the door panel on. Unscrew each screw carefully, setting the screws aside in a secure place (such as in a bag or container). Remove all screws before attempting to remove the door panel.

2

Take hold of the back of the door panel on the bottom and gently but firmly give it a sharp tug. The bottom clip should come free. Do the same for all of the door clips, which will be located along the bottom of the panel. Pull backward on the panel and in a slightly upward direction to lift the door panel away from the door.

3

Locate the screws that hold the speaker in position, if applicable (there should be three). Unscrew the speaker screws and carefully remove the speaker from its hole.

4

Remove the broken window stop, which should be a square shape and may be made out of plastic. It is typically located in the empty speaker hole.

5

Put the window in the down position with approximately 5 cm of the window sticking up above the top of the door panel (this allows for the window to be in the proper position for installing the new one for all vehicles). When rolled down, the window will be visible inside the door through the speaker hole. The bottom of the window should be fairly close to the window stop screw hole, so that the window stop can be properly installed.

6

Put the Allen key into the hexagon screw for the new window stop. Fit the washer over the screw. Locate the window stop hole, an empty screw hole, within the empty speaker space. Hold the old window stop up to the empty screw hole and ensure that it fits to confirm that its the correct hole. Position the new window stop screw into the hole but behind the glass carefully within the empty speaker space. When the window is in the proper down position, you will be able to see the bottom of the window inside the speaker hole; the window stop must be in a position to prevent the bottom of the window from going down any farther or past the window stop. Tighten the screw by hand, then tighten it using the Allen key to secure it in place.

7

Test the window to ensure that it goes up and down properly and that the window stops in the proper position. If the window stop has been installed correctly, the window will stop in its normal position when rolled down. If the window does not stop in the correct position, go back and again tighten the hexagon screw on the window stop, repeating the testing process.

8

Put the speaker back into place and secure it with the speaker screws.

9

Roll the window all the way down. Place the top corner of the door panel above the door. Align the reinforced lip of the door panel over the inner lip of the door. While making sure the lip stays in position, bring the back of the panel down. Once the panel is hooked on the door, it should slide forward and into the proper position. Check to ensure that the screw holes line up. Push the door clips into place. Put the screws in the door panel to re-secure the panel.

When your hydraulic jack stops working then its likely a seal has failed. This causes hydraulic fluid to leak out, the pressure to drop, and the jack to stop lifting. Replacing a seal can be a tall order and sometimes the replacement parts can cost more than a new jack. However, if you can isolate the leak to one seal in particular then you should be able to replace that seal for relatively little money.

Instructions

Find the Source of the Leak

1

Open the cap for the oil reservoir. With the bottle on its side, fill the jack until it is about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole. Replace the cap and wipe the outside clean with the cloth.

2

Place the jack under a vehicle and pump it up until there is weight on it. Continue to pump and watch the jack to find out where the fluid is coming from. It is likely to be coming either from around the piston at the top of the jack, around one of the screws in the bottom of the jack or around the piston under the handle.

3

Lower the jack, wipe it down and place it on a bench for further work.

Leakage from the Top

4

Drain the oil from the jack by opening the oil reservoir and letting it into a tray. Stand the jack so the piston extends vertically and youll find it looks like a bottle. At the top of this bottle there is a nut called the tank nut, through which the piston extends. Undo the tank nut using a pipe wrench. You may have to use a clamp or vice to hold the jack in place.

5

Remove the piston from the jack. Once the tank nut is undone the piston will slide out. There are several pieces to the piston, record their positions as you remove them so you can put them back the same way. The positions and order will depend on the jack you are repairing. Examine the seals around these pieces to see whether they are pinched, cracked or broken. Replace any that look worn.

6

Replace the pieces of the piston inside the jack and tighten the tank bolt.

Leakage from the Bottom

7

Drain the oil from the jack by opening the oil reservoir and tipping the oil out.

8

Remove the screw that shows the leak and look carefully into the hole. There will be a ball or a pin if it is the release valve, or two balls and two springs if it is the overload valve. Carefully remove each of these pieces and make a note of the order in which you removed them.

9

Verify all the balls and springs are present and then examine the inside of the hole for the O-rings and washers creating the seal. Examine these for cracks, breaks or pinches. Replace anything in bad shape.

10

Put the balls and springs back in the hole in the order you removed them. Usually it goes small ball then small spring, then large ball and large spring. Depending on the jack, you may also have plates and guides to keep the balls and springs in place.

11

Once the balls and springs are back inside, replace the screw.

Leakage from the Handle

12

Drain the oil from the jack by removing the reservoir plug and letting the oil into a tray.

13

Remove the bolts securing the handle to the piston and to its pivot. There are usually three or four bolts. The number depends on the manufacturer.

14

Place the jack in a vice and pull out the pump piston, which is attached to the handle. It is not bolted in place but it may require a lot of force to remove. Put aside the piston and examine the O-rings and washers for any sign of pinching, cracking or breaking. All the seals are on the inside of the hole, in the body of the jack. Very few jacks have seals on the handle itself. Replace any worn seals.

15

Push the piston back down into the hole and replace the handle assembly, securing it with the same bolts you removed.

Finishing

16

Replace the oil in the reservoir. Open the reservoir cap and fill it with hydraulic oil until it is about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole when the jack is on its side.

17

Remove any excess air from the jack by opening the release valve and vigorously pumping the handle. Close the release valve, then raise and lower the jack as you normally would. If there is still air in the system, the jack will not reach its full range of travel, so repeat the process until you get the full range of travel.

18

Wipe the jack with the cloth to clean the outside and lift the vehicle again. Determine whether there are any other leaks by examining the outside of the jack.

The Honda Civic is a line of subcompact and compact cars made by Honda since 1973. The models made from 2006 to 2010 are compacts with several choices of engines, most often a four-cylinder 1.8-liter engine. These vehicles use mult-port fuel injection, which requires a fuel pressure regulator to control the pressure in the fuel lines. The fuel pressure regulator in recent model Honda Civics is located under the rear seat and is part of the fuel tank unit.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump under the dashboard and start the engine. Allow the engine to run until it stalls and replace the fuse for the fuel pump. Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the discharge of fuel into the fuel system.

2

Remove the cushion from the rear seat of the vehicle and pull the upper cross-member from the rear floor. Disconnect the retaining screws for the access panel with a socket wrench and remove the access panel. Detach the electrical connector from the fuel tank unit; release the quick-connect fittings from the fuel tank unit.

3

Turn the locknut counterclockwise with Locknut Wrench 07AAA-SNAA100 to loosen the it. Remove the locknut from the fuel tank unit; detach the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank.

4

Disconnect the bracket and O-ring from the fuel tank unit. Detach the fuel pressure regulator from the rest of the fuel tank unit and discard the O-ring.

5

Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil and mount the new O-ring onto the new fuel pressure regulator. Connect the bracket to the fuel pressure regulator. Align the marks on the fuel tank unit with those on the fuel tank unit and install the fuel tank unit.

6

Mount the locknut onto the fuel tank unit. Turn the locknut clockwise with Locknut Wrench 07AAA-SNAA100 until it locks into place. Attach the quick-connect fittings and the electrical connectors for the fuel tank unit.

7

Replace the access panel and fasten its retaining screws with a socket wrench. Replace the upper cross-member in the rear floor and install the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

The nature of driving on roads anywhere in the United States has the issue of small bits of debris bouncing up and hitting the front bumper causing paint damage. The smallest of pebbles at 55 miles per hour can create a scratch or paint chip that will look ugly on a new car. This problem can easily be rectified with a trip to the auto store or dealer.

Instructions

1

Examine the damage to the bumper cover. if it is a large nick, more than 1 inch, you need to use the 200 grit sandpaper. If it is less, then use the 400 grit. You are not sanding a large surface. Hold the sandpaper between the thumb and forefinger and gently rub the damaged area. You are just trying to rough the surface.

2

Wipe the area clean. It is a good idea to use the damp cloth and wipe an area around eight inches around the damage, this will keep it from getting any excess dirt under the paint. Allow to dry.

3

Paint the damaged spot. The easiest way to do this is to carefully paint inside the damaged area first and try not to go outside the lines. The touch-up paint comes with a brush on the inside of the bottle connected to the cap. Allow the paint to dry.

The EGR, or exhaust gas recirculation, valve is a small metal disc bolted to the intake manifold near the carburetor on GMC trucks and vans. The EGR valve draws exhaust gases from the exhaust system and reintroduces them into the intake manifold. Introducing exhaust gases into the combustion chamber helps lower the combustion temperature of the engine, which in turn helps reduce the amount of harmful oxides of nitrogen (NOx) produced by the engine.

Instructions

Removing a GMC EGR Valve

1

Remove the air cleaner housing by unscrewing the wing nut on top of the air cleaner lid and lifting the air cleaner housing straight up until you clear the threaded rod.

2

Locate the EGR valve. It will be bolted to the intake manifold close to the carburetor.

3

Label and disconnect the vacuum line attached to the top of the EGR valve by pulling it off.

4

Remove the bolts that secure the EGR valve to the intake manifold.

5

Lift the EGR valve straight up to remove it from the intake manifold.

6

Use a flat razor blade to clean any gasket material of the EGR valve mounting surface.

7

Inspect the passages below the EGR valve, and use a flat blade screwdriver to clear away any carbon deposits.

8

Vacuum the area around the EGR valve mounting surface. Make sure none of the carbon deposits or loose gasket material is left behind. You dont want it to get sucked into the engine.

Installing an EGR Valve on a GMC

9

Place a new gasket on the EGR valve mounting surface.

10

Lower the new EGR valve into position on the intake manifold.

11

Reinstall the bolts that connect the EGR valve to the intake manifold.

12

Reconnect the vacuum line that attaches to the top of the EGR valve.

13

Reinstall the air cleaner housing by lowering it over the threaded rod above the carburetor and reinstalling the wing nut that secures it.