2014 ~ Repair And Fix it

Monday, November 17, 2014

Jeep Cherokee Bumper Removal

Removing either the front or rear bumper on the Jeep Cherokee requires basic hand tools and a few minutes time. Even a novice home mechanic can complete the process in the driveway at home or in the garage. The bumpers are not heavy so you can do the job by yourself but a second set of hands is helpful to support the bumper as the last bolts come out. The mounts never changed over the entire production run of the Cherokee, so no matter what year Cherokee you own, the bumpers come off the same way.

Instructions

Slide under the front of your Jeep and locate the mounts where the bumper and frame rails meet. There are two side plates, one on the each side of the frame, with three bolts securing them to the frame.

Loosen the three bolts on both sides of the Jeep with a socket and ratchet. Remove two on each side but leave one in place so the bumper does not fall.

Remove the last two bolts, while supporting the bumper. Pull the bumper straight off the front off the Jeep. On older models, there may be a vacuum line attached to a ball on the inside of the bumper. Pull the line off when you remove the bumper.

Open the lift gate on the rear of your Jeep Cherokee then slide under the rear bumper of the Jeep. Locate the bumper mounts on the body of the Jeep; there are four bolts on each mounts that thread into the body.

Remove three of the four bolts from each mount using a socket and ratchet. Leave one bolt on each mount to keep the bumper from falling on you.

Remove the final bolt on one side with a socket and ratchet while supporting the bumper. Slide to the opposite mount and remove the final bolt there as well.

Pull the bumper straight off the rear of the Jeep. Set the bumper aside and close the rear lift gate.

How to Install a Driving Light on a Harley-Davidson Softail

Harley-Davidson driving lights mount on the front forks of Softails. The driving lights may add slightly to your view of the road at night. They add significantly to the recognition by oncoming drivers that you are there. The pattern formed by a headlight and two driving lights is conspicuous, and driving lightbulbs are often yellow, so even drunks are inclined to slow down when they see you coming. The popular Heritage Softail Classic, styled to look like a mid-60s hog, comes equipped with three lights as standard equipment. If that is the effect you are trying to achieve, numerous aftermarket vendors, including Harley and Kuryakyn, sell driving light kits. These instructions are specific to recent, fuel-injected Softails.

Instructions

Remove the electrical caddy cover by pulling on it with both hands. Pry the fuel pump fuse out of the electrical caddy with a small, flathead screwdriver.

Start the engine in neutral and run the engine until it dies. Run the starter for four more seconds.

Disconnect the fuel supply line by pulling up on the chrome sleeve of the fuel tank quick-connect fitting and pulling down on the fuel supply line.

Unscrew the bolt that secures the seat tab to the rear fender. Recent Softails use a Phillips screw, which must be removed with a screwdriver. Older Softails use an Allen bolt, which comes off with an Allen wrench.

Remove the seat to access the battery compartment. Disconnect the negative battery wire from the negative terminal with an open-end wrench.

Remove the instrument panel by loosening and removing the acorn nut on the panel with an Allen wrench and pulling up. Unplug the fuel pump module connector under the instrument panel.

Push a 5/16-inch-diameter bolt in one end of a foot long piece of 5/16-inch rubber hose. Tighten a hose clamp around the hose and the bolt with a flathead screwdriver.

Cut the hose clamp from one end of the crossover hose with side blade pliers. Very quickly replace the crossover hose on the fuel tank fitting with the open end of the 1-foot hose while directing the flow of gasoline from the free end of the crossover hose into an adequately sized gas can.

Clean up spilled gasoline with rags. Carry the rags outside if you are working in a garage.

Disconnect the crossover hose and the continuous venting vent line. Remove the front tank mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with an open-end wrench.

Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and nut with an open-end wrench. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector under the left side of the fuel tank with your hands.

Lift the tank straight up to remove. Set the tank on a well-padded surface in a well-ventilated place.

Install the left-hand and right-hand side specific mounting clamps that came with the driving light kit on the right and left fork tubes using the four buttonhead screws that came with the driving light kit. Tighten the screws to between 70 and 80 inch-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

Route each lamp wire through the hole in each mounting bracket and secure the lamp to each bracket using a clamp block, lock washer and retainer from the kit. Tighten the retainer to 18 foot-pounds of torque with an open-end socket and a torque wrench.

Position the inner nesting rings from the kit on each lightbulb. Connect the black wires to the bulb spade terminals next to the bulbs indexing tabs. Install the gray wires on the remaining spade terminals.

Attach the bulbs and the inner nesting rings to the outer trim rings with the Phillips screws included in the kit. Slide the conduit tubes from the kit over both lamp wires.

Set the light kit wiring harness relay in the seat pan. Route the long leg of the harness along the frame spine under the seat.

Plug the white wire connector into the "B+" connector on the lighting kit wiring harness. Loosen and remove the nut on the ground wire stud in the seat pan with a socket wrench and socket.

Slip the black, ground wire ring over the ground wire stud. Replace the ground wire stud nut. Secure the driving light kit wire harness to the adjacent wiring harnesses with the cable straps included in the driving light kit.

Route the driving light wiring harness past the steering head. Route the lamp switch leg of the harness along the left side of the handlebar to the clutch control.

Unscrew the boot from the small lamp switch in the kit. Install the switch into the switch mounting bracket in the kit and replace the boot on the switch.

Remove the lower screw and washer from the clutch control clamp with a Torx driver. Position the tab of the driving light switch bracket over the screw hole and replace the Torx screw and washer. Tighten the screw to 70 inch-pounds of torque with a Torx socket and torque wrench.

Loosen the headlight trim ring clamp with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the headlight trim ring.

Pull the connector block from the headlight bulb prongs. Remove the rubber boot from the back of the headlight lens.

Squeeze the wire retaining clip ends to unhook them from the notches in the headlight assembly. Pivot the wire retaining clip away from the headlight bulb and remove the bulb from the headlight assembly.

Route the unconnected wire from the handlebar switch through the grommet into the headlight housing. Splice that wire to the yellow (low-beam) headlight wire using the electrical connector included in the driving light kit.

Reinstall the headlight bulb.

Slide the heat-shrink tubing included in the kit over the white wire in the driving light wiring harness. Strip the ends of both lamp wires with a wire stripper.

Splice the white wire to the lamp wires with the three wire connector included in the kit with a wire crimping tool. Cover the splice with the heat shrink tubing and shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

Clip the driving light wires to the lower fork steering bracket using the adhesive-backed clips from the kit.

Reinstall the fuel tank. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Reinstall the fuel pump fuse. Replace the electrical caddy cover. Replace the seat.

How to Clean the Enricher on Your Sportster

Harley-Davidson calls them enrichers. Everybody else calls them chokes. When you pull out the knob under the left side of your gas tank you increase, or fatten, the percentage of gasoline in your carburetors gas-fuel mix. Pushing the knob in leans the fuel mixture. The knob is attached to a cable that attaches to an enricher valve inside the body of your carburetor. Maintaining and lubricating this cable is a standard procedure you should perform on your Sportster every 2,500 miles or every two months.

Instructions

Put the motorcycle in first gear. Turn off the engine, lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand and let the engine go cold.

Fully extend the enricher knob. Unhook the enricher cable from the clip under the gas tank near the horn. Wipe the exposed cable, knob and clip with a rag.

Spray cable lubricant on the enricher cable and inside the enricher cable guide tube under the gas tank. Wipe up drips with the rag.

Refasten the enricher cable to the clip near the horn. Pull and push the enricher knob in and out to distribute the lubricant along the full length of the enricher cable.

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger

The Ford Ranger pickup truck comes with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. It may have a 6-cylinder 3.0L or a 6-cylinder 4.0L engine, and all versions of the Ford Ranger use electronic fuel injection. The fuel pump on this vehicle uses high pressure, and is located on the fuel tank. This makes it necessary to remove the fuel tank before replacing the fuel pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger.

Instructions

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system, and disconnect the fuel tank. Clean the area around the attaching flange for the fuel pump with a shop rag. This will prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank when you replace the fuel pump.

Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counter-clockwise with a locking ring removal tool. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank, including the bracket. Remove the gasket for the fuel pump.

Apply a thin layer of heavy grease to the new fuel pump gasket, and install it into the ring groove on the fuel tank. Place the new fuel pump assembly into position in the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump, and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

Connect the fuel tank onto the vehicle, and put at least ten gallons of gas into the fuel tank. Fix any fuel leaks, and connect a pressure gauge to the throttle body valve. Turn the ignition on for three seconds without starting the engine, and turn it off for three seconds. Repeat this at least five times to pressurize the fuel system to at least 30 pounds per square inch, or PSI.

Check the vehicle and fix any leaks. Disconnect the pressure gauge, and start the engine. Check the vehicle again, and fix any leaks.

How do I Install a 99 Avenger Wheel Hub Assembly

Wheel bearing failure is a common cause of driving troubles that may lead to damage of the cars drivetrain, or at the very least cause some obnoxious noises. The Dodge Avenger features maintenance-free wheel bearings. As a result, when the bearings no longer operate properly they must be replaced with the entire wheel hub assembly. This procedure requires removal of the steering knuckle, so it may be beneficial to consider replacing other elements of the steering and drivetrain during this repair to avoid future frustration.

Instructions

Loosen the wheel hub bolt and remove the wheel cotter pin. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel.

Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. This will require removing the brake calipers from the rotor and disengaging the tie rod ends and the lower ball joint. Doing this will require the use of a tie rod presser and a ball joint separator tool.

Remove the bolts holding the wheel hub to the steering knuckle once the knuckle has been removed from the vehicle. It is recommended to do this on a bench or other solid surface. Remove the hub from the steering knuckle by gently tapping it with a soft mallet.

Clean the mating surface between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub. Install the new hub assembly and tighten the bolts to 65 foot-pounds of torque.

Reinstall the steering knuckle and the brake calipers. Install the tire and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel hub nut and install a new cotter pin. Drive the vehicle to check for proper alignment.

How to Replace the Starter on a 2002 Camry

The starter on the 2002 Toyota Camry is a cylindrical piece located on the lower part of the engine on the drivers side of the vehicle. Its positioned between the transmission and transmission cross member and is bolted to the bell housing. The starter is responsible for the initial cranking power needed to turn the engines pistons.

Instructions

Remove the negative battery cable connector from the battery with a crescent wrench. This cuts off power to the Camrys starter.

Remove the wiring harness from the starter solenoid by pulling the wire connector off the male connector on the solenoid.

Disconnect the black grounding wire from the side of the starter by removing the bolt with a crescent wrench.

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing with a 9/16 socket.

Pull the old starter out of the bell housing and then place the new starter into the bell housing.

Bolt the starter in place.

Reconnect the ground wire to the side of the Camrys starter.

Reconnect the starter solenoid wiring harness.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Styles of Rod Bearings

Rod bearings or connecting rods connect the pistons to the crankshaft and must be strong to withstand the internal forces from pistons directional changes as well as transmit the piston thrust to the crankshaft. Rod bearings are mainly made of aluminum for smaller engines and forged steel. The upper end of the rod bearing is connected by a piston pin to the piston and the lower end of the rod is split so that it is clamped around the crankshaft in a certain style.

I-beam are the most common styles of rod bearing connection and are used for performance builds and stock applications. These rods are characterized by a large flat area perpendicular to the side beams. The rod side beams are parallel to holes found in the crank journal and piston pins, providing an excellent combination of compressive and tensile strength as well as light weight. I-beam rods handle high rpm tension although they might bend or fail when exposed to high compressive forces. I-beams can be made wider or thicker so that they can handle large horsepower loads.

Oval beams are also erred to as parabolic or radial beams and are a variation of the basic I-beam. They are created by leaving a rounded region next to the two beams, thus increasing the rigidity and strength. This scalloped effect created by the rounded area is aimed at improving the performance of rod bearings and minimizing bending or failure of rod bearings.

H-beam rods are made of two big flat-sided beams lying at a 90 degree angle to the crankshaft journal bores and the piston pin. Lateral stiffness is provided by the center region linking the two sides of the H jointly. In comparison with the I-beam, this design weighs less and has superior compressive power. H-beam style is recommended for applications with high torques generating huge amounts of power below 6,000 rpm.

Rod bearings are specifically engineered to meet particular requirements that take into consideration the amount of load produced by the engine. For example, passenger cars are not frequently full-loaded and might require different rod bearings from applications with heavier loads, such as marine or heavy duty trucks. Also take into consideration that putting more load on the bearing makes it difficult to maintain the oil film connecting the bearing and shaft, reducing the longevity of the rod bearings.

How to Change the Time in an 03 Passat

The 2003 Volkswagen Passat, including the GL, GLS, GLX and W8 4motion, features several standard and optional convenience options. All models include a liquid crystal display clock on the instrument cluster below the tachometer. Changing the time is an easy task that does not require any special tools or automotive knowledge.

Instructions

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN or ACC position.

Examine the instrument panel and locate the digital clock display.

Take note of the correct time, using a watch or cell phone.

Turn and hold the small plastic knob below the tachometer, using a counterclockwise motion to incrementally increase the hours. Release the knob when the correct hour is displayed.

Turn and hold the knob clockwise to adjust the minutes. Release the button when finished.

Turn the ignition to the OFF position to complete the process.

My 93 Toyota Camry Stalls Wont Start Back Up

The 1993 Camry is a sedan manufactured by Toyota. If your Camry is stalling and wont start up, there is probably a problem with your cooling system or the engine coolant temperature sensor. These two problems are not difficult to repair, but could require the help of a service technician. Adding coolant to your system may be the quick fix that you need; however, a broken ECT will need professional service.

Instructions

Pop the hood to your 93 Camry from the hood latch on the side of the cars grill. Locate the cooling system, which is on the left side of the engine.

Look at the fill line on the cooling systems tank. Fill the cooling tank with 50/50 coolant; make sure you reach the fill line on the side of the tank. You should always use 50/50 coolant when possible, but you can temporarily use water if you run out.

Try to start the car. If the car will not start, use a voltmeter to test the ECT. The ECT is on the left side, at the back of the engine. It is a small, green box with two wires coming off it.

Connect the testing leads to the (+) and (-) terminals and then try to start the car. Watch the reading on the voltmeter. If the reading starts to go up and down erratically, you need to have a service technician replace the ECT.

How to Locate the PVC Valve on a 2003 Buick LeSabre

The 2003 Buick Lesabre has a history of engine gasket failures. The intake manifold and oil pan gaskets are common replacement requirements that can cost you in excess of $700 to have repaired. Replacing the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (PCV) can keep crankcase gases from building up in the engine and extend the life of the gaskets. The PCV valve is often overlooked as a maintenance item on this engine due to its location.

Instructions

Open the hood. Remove the oil filler cap. Remove the oil filler neck by twisting it counterclockwise until it releases. Remove the engine cover by lifting the front of it and pulling it towards you to release the rear mounting tap.

Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold towards the front of the engine. This sensor will have three wires- orange/black, light green, and grey. Lift the connector locking tab and remove the connector. Remove the MAP sensor by releasing the locking tabs with the screwdriver.

Remove the PCV valve cover under the MAP sensor by pressing a 5/8 -inch socket against it and twisting it counterclockwise a quarter turn. Remove the PCV valve and the O-ring. Wipe oil and debris from the mounting area.

Install the new PCV valve and O-ring by pressing it firmly into place. Install the PCV cover plate by pushing down on it with the socket and twisting it clockwise until it stops. Replace the seal on the MAP sensor if it is damaged. Install the map sensor slowly, taking care not to damage the mounting tabs. Snap the wiring connector into place.

Install the engine cover, making sure that the rear tab is inserted into the mounting bracket. Replace the seal on the oil filler neck if damaged. Install the oil filler neck. Install the oil filler cap.

The Symptoms of a VW Belt Tensioner Pulley

The Volkswagen (VW) belt tensioner pulley tightens the serpentine belt that turns the engine accessories, such as the air-conditioning compressor and water pump. The newer model VWs have an automatic tensioner pulley that tightens the serpentine belt as it stretches, but the older model VWs have a tensioner pulley that needs to be adjusted. The tensioner pulley shows symptoms when it is going out or requiring replacement.

The VW belt tensioner pulley can become too tight or too weak, allowing the serpentine belt to wear prematurely or slip under normal operating conditions. The belt begins to squeal when the tensioner pulley is not tight enough, causing the engine to overheat because the water pump is not operating efficiently. This symptom can be caused by the tensioner pulley spring, which weakens over time and does not place enough tension on the belt. The serpentine belt can also begin to run too hot and prematurely fail. The tensioner pulley needs to be replaced when these symptoms occur.

The engine in the VW can overheat when there is a problem with the belt tensioner pulley. This symptom is caused by corrosion building up on the tensioner pulley that does not allow the pulley to adjust the serpentine belt. When corrosion builds up, the pulley becomes jammed or does not rotate, causing the serpentine belt to stretch and loosen on the engine accessories. The corrosion does not allowing the pulley to adjust to the stretched belt, creating the water pump problem. This corrosion is generally caused by road debris and dampness splashing onto the tensioner pulley. Proper lubrication of the tensioner pulley periodically can prevent this corrosion build-up.

Another symptom of a VW belt tensioner pulley going bad is the battery not charging properly. A failing tensioner pulley does not provide enough tension on the serpentine belt, preventing the alternator from recharging the battery. The loose serpentine belt does not allow the alternator to turn fast enough to charge the battery, and the battery can quit working or fail to provide enough charge to the ignition and electrical system to start the engine. The tensioner pulley needs to be replaced or inspected when the serpentine belt is replaced to ensure that the tensioner pulley keeps operating efficiently.

How to Fix the Backup Lights on a Nissan Frontier

The reverse light in your Nissan Frontier is in the lower position inside the rear combination light assembly. When the reverse light burns out, you should replace the bulb quickly for your own safety on the road. Buy a 921 bulb from an auto parts retailer or Nissan dealership and change the bulb at home to be back on the road in minutes.

Instructions

Lower the tailgate of your Frontier. Locate the two mounting screws on the inside edge of the taillight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

Slide the taillight assembly out and away from the bed of the truck. Grasp the lower bulb and pull it straight out of the assembly.

Push the new bulb into place. Align the taillight assembly in the mounting area. Insert the two mounting screws and tighten them with the screwdriver.

Repeat the process to change the bulb on the other side. Close the tailgate.

Torque Converters FAQ

Automotive automatic transmissions use a torque converter to transmit torque between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. The torque converter links the crankshaft and transmission to provide fluid coupling and torque multiplication.

The converters essential components are the impeller, the turbine, the stator and the lock-up clutch. The converter is filled with automatic transmission fluid, which is key to transmitting energy between the engine and transmission while smoothing excessive vibration.

The impeller is driven by the engines crankshaft. As it spins, vanes charge the fluid, which in turn drives the turbine. The turbine is mounted on and powers the transmission input shaft. The stator is mounted between the two, altering the flow of the transmission fluid back to the impeller as it comes off of the turbine. This provides a torque multiplication feature, maximizing the amount of power sent to the transmission.

The torque converters secondary function is as a lock-up clutch. When the vehicle is cruising at a constant speed, the turbine and the impeller turn at nearly the same speed. The torque multiplication function is no longer applicable, so the lock-up clutch engages to lock the impeller to the turbine. The torque converter then serves as a direct linkage between the engine and the drivetrain.

The Suzuki Samurai, with its 1.3-liter engine, has a muffler with an integrated front and rear exhaust pipe section. The front runs from the head pipe or exhaust manifold to the muffler body and the rear from the body to the tailpipe just above the rear axle housing. Replacing the muffler requires you to remove several bolts at the front of the system and one exhaust clamp. The job can be completed in the driveway at home in about an hour with common hand tools.

Instructions

Raise the front of your Suzuki off the ground with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing to support the vehicle. Make sure the jack stands are on a flat, solid surface, then remove the jack from under the truck.

Locate the flange at the front of the muffler assembly from under the truck. Remove the two mounting bolts from the flange using a wrench on one side and a socket and ratchet on the other.

Move to the rear of the assembly and locate the connection between the tailpipe and the muffler assembly. Remove the nuts from the exhaust clamp on the pipe with a socket and ratchet. Remove the clamp from the exhaust pipe and discard it.

Separate the muffler assembly from the tailpipe, then remove the muffler from the rubber hangers under the truck. Lower the muffler to the ground and remove it from under the truck.

Raise a new muffler assembly into place and connect the two rubber hangers to the support pins on the muffler assembly. Raise the rear of the muffler assembly and slide the tailpipe and the rear connection of the muffler together. Install a new exhaust clamp on the connection and tighten the nuts with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the nuts or you will crush the pipe.

Position the flange at the front of the muffler assembly against the flange on the front exhaust pipe and install the two retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other.

Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands with a jack, remove the jack stands from under the truck, then lower it to the ground.

Tips on a Custom Car Interior

Lots of people redesign their cars exterior, but remodeling the interior can make a car truly distinct. If you want your car to really express your personality, consider changing up the interior. Decide on a budget first, since customizing a car can become a never-ending process that costs a lot of money unless you set boundaries. Doing it yourself can greatly reduce the cost.

Without a theme, you could end up with a bunch of random accessories and styles instead of a stylish, consistent look. Looking at your car from the outside, ask yourself how you would describe it--bold and trendy, sporty and adventurous, or cute and playful. If youre customizing the exterior too, imagine the look you want to create and think of how youd describe it. Jot down any words that come to mind, and any colors, textures, and accessories that fit that theme.

If replacing seats, choose ones that are designed to give you proper support and let you change positions as needed, as Dennis W. Parks says in his book "How to Restore and Customize Auto Upholstery and Interiors." If restoring a vintage car that wont be driven much, using the original seats that came with the vehicle is fine. However, if you expect to drive the vehicle frequently, choose a more ergonomic design, meaning a design that helps the body to stay properly aligned for maximum comfort and health. Such designs often incorporate lumbar supports and numerous other features.

Some car designers reshape consoles, dashboards and other interior components. As Parks illustrations in his book show, some console have a trendy concave top and back, sloping elegantly to the floor. Designers often use nontraditional colors, too, or select a new material like chrome or wood. Some serious enthusiasts design new storage spaces or weld on new accessories too, but visibility and accessibility should always remain priority.

Parks suggests to stick to no more than three or four patterns and colors. For instance, you might have black vinyl seating, a geometric fabric on the walls and a dashboard that matches the exterior. Too much becomes overwhelming. If using a bold print on the walls, dont add a contrasting pattern on the floor.

Similarly, stick to textures that complement rather than clash with each other, as Parks says--vinyl and crushed velour dont mix. Match natural materials or those with a more industrial feel, pairing chrome with vinyl, not wood. Taking an upholstery class can give you all the skills you need to do that part of the job yourself, says Jim Richardson in "Classic Car Restorers Handbook." Compare swatches of your fabrics at midday so the angle of sunlight wont distort your perception of the colors, he suggests.

Some people add LED light strips or patches to their car interiors for a neon glow. Others use dome or underbody light, or lights that can change color. Always make sure these extras wont affect your driving or the safety of others on the road, and that they comply with laws. Many people add a new CD player or a more powerful stereo to make driving more enjoyable, too.

How to Change the Exhaust Manifold on a 1995 Lumnia

The exhaust manifold, also known as a header, on the Chevy Lumina collects the exhaust gases from the engine cylinders and diverts them through the exhaust pipe. If the manifold develops cracks, you will need to change it or the efficiency of the engine will drop. This is a project that you can do yourself, so there is no need to take the Lumina to an automotive repair shop. You can expect it to take you about three hours to complete the project.

Instructions

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut. Disconnect the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor. Turn the belt tensioner using a wrench and relieve the tension from the serpentine belt. Note the proper routing of the belt if the diagram is missing.

Remove the serpentine belt from the Lumina engine. Remove the bolts from the alternator using a socket and ratchet and take it off the engine. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Lumina. Lift the front of the car with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the Lumina near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

Remove the bolts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina and lower the car to the ground. Remove the oil fill tube from the engine block using a wrench. Pull the tube away from the engine. Remove the nuts from the exhaust manifold using a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine.

Remove the manifold gasket and discard it. Install a new gasket and exhaust manifold. Secure the nuts using a socket and ratchet. Install the oil fill tube and tighten the nut with a wrench. Raise the Lumina with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

Crawl under the Lumina and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten the bolts with a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina. Lower the car to the ground. Install the alternator and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Install the serpentine belt according to the diagram you made, or the one under the engine hood if present.

Place tension on the serpentine belt by turning the belt tensioner with a wrench. Connect the electrical connection to the oxygen sensor. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

How to Replace the Passenger Mirror in a Dodge Ram

The Dodge Ram pickup truck was introduced in 1981 and quickly became the most successful pickup truck in the Dodge lineup. Dodge manufactures the Ram on either a van platform or a truck platform. Both versions utilize the same side view mirrors, so the replacement process is the same.

Instructions

Press the left side of the passenger mirror into the mirror shell of the Dodge Ram. By pushing the left side of the mirror into the shell, the right side of the mirror is forced out of the shell. This allows you to grasp the mirror with your hand.

Place your fingers on the backside of the Rams mirror and press your thumb against the front side of the mirror. Pull out on the mirror to separate the mounting brackets from the ball-joint located inside the mirror shell.

Place the new mirror into the shell and press on the center of the mirror with your fist to push the mounting brackets around the ball-joint.

Adjust your new mirror to meet your driving needs.

How to Calculate an Intake Runner

An engines induction system can be designed to improve the location of peak torque within its RPM range by altering the intake manifolds plenum volume, runner length and runner diameter. Long and narrow intake runners will result in lower RPM ratings, while short and wide runners will result in higher RPM ratings. Determining the RPM rating at which you want peak torque to occur is up to you, but once you do decide, calculating the intake runner size is straightforward.

Instructions

Decide the RPM rating at which you want peak torque to occur. For example, youd like your cars engine to reach 5,000 RPM at peak torque.

Multiply the RPM rating from Step 1 by the engines displacement volume and volumetric efficiency. For example, the cars engine has a displacement of 1.5 liters and a volumetric efficiency of 95 percent. Multiplying 5,000 by 1.5 by 0.95 equals 7,125.

Divide the result from Step 2 by 3,330. In the example, 7,125 divided by 3,330 equals 2.140.

Calculate the square root of the result from Step 3 to determine the intake runners diameter. In the example, the square root of 2.140 is 1.463. The intake runners diameter should be 1.463 inches.

Subtract the result from Step 1, Section 1 from 10,000. In the example, subtracting 5,000 from 10,000 equals 5,000.

Divide the result from Step 1 by 1,000. In the example, dividing 5,000 by 1,000 equals 5.

Multiply the result from Step 2 by 4.3. In the example, multiplying 5 by 4.3 equals 21.5.

Add 17.8 to the result from Step 3 to calculate the intake runner length in centimeters. In the example, adding 17.8 to 21.5 equals 39.3 cm.

Multiply the result from Step 4 by 0.3937 to convert the intake runner length to inches. In the example, multiplying 39.3 by 0.3937 equals 15.472. The intake runner should be 15.472 inches long.

How to Replace a 2000 Dodge Neon Hydraulic Steering Line

The 2000 model year Dodge Neon uses a hydraulic pump to create pressure that assists the driver in steering the vehicle. The hydraulically assisted steering, commonly known as power steering, is especially helpful at lower speeds when the driver must use more effort to steer. Maintenance and removal of power steering components may require removing the hydraulic hoses that flow to and from the power steering pump.

Instructions

Locate the power steering gear near the front left wheel and determine if you can access the hose attachments well enough to remove them.

Remove the negative battery cable to ensure all steering components will be disabled.

You may need to approach hoses from under the car.

Jack the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Do this step only if you cannot access the hose connections at the power steering gear from the engine compartment or without raising the car.

Siphon as much fluid from the power steering pump reservoir as possible to reduce spillage.

Remove all hose clamps from the hose you will replace.

Loosen the hose nut at the power steering pump if you are removing the pressure hose. The return hose is only secured with a clamp.

Position a small bucket or other container underneath the hose as you remove it. Drain as much fluid into the container as possible to minimize hazardous fluid spills from reaching the ground. If you were able to siphon the reservoir, this step may not be necessary.

Disconnect the lower end of the hose. Try to contain spillage in a container.

Install the lower end of the new hose. Tighten the hose nut if it is a pressure or the hose clamp for the return hose. Tighten the hose nut to 25 foot-pounds of torque.

Route the hose upward along the same path it ran before it was removed. Install the upper part of the hose and tighten the clamp or hose nut. Tighten the hose nut to 25 foot-pounds of torque.

Reinstall the front wheels and lower the car if it was raised for access.

Reinstall all the hose clamps that were removed.

Refill the power steering reservoir with new fluid.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

How to Drill Tap Aluminum

The qualities that make aluminum lightweight create problems when you are creating a threaded hole in the material. Drill bit and taps used on aluminum will clog as they remove material from the area. Each tool will fail to cut the aluminum once clogged. Keeping the tools free of aluminum ensures a threaded hole able to hold a fastener.

Instructions

Reference a tap chart to determine the drill bit size required for the threaded hole.

Secure the drill bit in a drill motor. Cover the end of the drill bit and the surface of the aluminum with cutting fluid.

Place the point of the coated drill bit on the aluminum. Pump the trigger of the drill motor to drill into the metal. Apply additional cutting fluid to the aluminum as you drill.

Secure a tap in the handle of a tee-handle tap wrench. Apply cutting fluid to the threads of the tap. Pour cutting fluid into the drilled hole.

Turn the tap handle clockwise to thread the tap into the hole. Reverse the direction of the tap when you have difficulty turning the tap into the aluminum.

Remove the tap from the threaded aluminum hole. Run a wire brush around the threads of the tap.

Thread the clean tap back through the threaded hole.

How to Replace Install a Blower Motor Resistor

A blower motor takes still air and forces it in one direction. In cars, theyre an essential part of the air conditioner because they blow air through an evaporator and into the cabin. Blower motors can move air at different speeds by switching between different resistances. Resistors with low impedance let the motor spin faster and high impedances make it spin slower. A short circuit can damage the resistors in your blower motor and the only way to fix them is to replace them.

Instructions

Disassemble your blower motor and expose the electronics inside.

Inspect the resistors in your blower motor. They are either a small coil with electrical connections or are a removable part of an integrated circuit board. Damaged resistors may appear and smell burnt, or look melted.

Remove the screws holding the resistor to the board, then remove the resistor from the motor.

Insert the replacement resistor in the same place as the old one and secure it with screws. Ensure that no stray wires or connections are touching the resistor.

How to Replace a Battery on a Chevrolet Equinox

A car battery does not last forever, and you will need to get a new one at some point. In most cars, the battery is visible as soon as you pop the hood and look inside the engine compartment. On the Chevrolet Equinox, the battery is in its own separate compartment. But replacing the battery is a fairly simple task, so save yourself some money and do the job yourself.

Instructions

Open the hood and locate the battery compartment. It sits under the computer module on the drivers side, near the fender apron.

Unsnap the clips on the computer module and lift it away from the battery compartment. Lay it off to the side.

Remove the three Phillips screws holding the battery cover in place. Lift the cover off and set it aside.

Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables with a wrench. Lift the battery out of the compartment and set it aside.

Place the new battery in the compartment. Connect the positive and negative battery cables.

Reposition the cover on the battery compartment. Tighten the three Phillips screws. Dont overtighten the screws or you will damage the threads.

Reposition the computer module and make sure it locks into place.

Brake pistons, or caliper pistons, are the part of the caliper that physically pushes the brake pads against the rotor when the brake pedal is pressed. This piston must be pressed into the caliper when replacing brake pads to make clearance for the new pads. There are several different tools used to press this piston in, depending on the style of piston system used: no push-back, dual pistons or standard.

The C-clamp is one or the more basic tools and the most common tool used on caliper pistons. This tool has a fixed side that is placed on the caliper body and a screw side that is placed on the piston. The user tightens the screw side of the clamp and it slowly presses the piston into the caliper. This tool is used on a standard piston system, which is what a vast majority of vehicles use on the front brake system.

The dual piston press is used on vehicles that have a dual piston system. Typically, these systems are reserved for high-performance vehicles. This tool has two plates, they are placed in the caliper just like brake pads. The user then tightens a wing-style nut that spreads the two plates, thereby compressing the pistons. If the user attempts to compress only one piston at a time, on a dual piston system, the opposite piston will raise as the other is compressed. This tool can typically be rented from any parts store.

The piston cube is by far the most basic of the tools used. To better understand how this tool is used, one must understand how a "no push-back" calipers function. This style of caliper has a threaded piston that turns and locks into place when the parking brake is engaged. This piston can only be compressed by twisting and pushing at the same time. This tool is a hollow cube that is attached to a ratchet. This cube has small pegs that are inserted into grooves on the piston so it can be turned. Each side of the cube has different peg styles and sizes for different vehicles. This tool is primarily used on rear caliper pistons.

The piston tool set is by far the most versatile ---and expensive--- tool for brake caliper pistons. This tool combines all of the others into one. It has a plate that acts as the outer brake pad, a screwing clamp to press the piston and a series of interchangeable plates that attach to the press to match all styles of pistons. This tool can be used on nearly any style of brake caliper piston. As stated before, this tool kit it rather expensive, but most parts stores lend them for free with purchase.

How to Change the Audi V6 Timing Belt

Audi AG is a German company that makes cars in a range of styles. A V6 engine is common in late-model Audi cars, such as the A6. This executive car typically features the AHA series engine, a six-cylinder, 2.8-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This engine has a timing belt to synchronize the movements of the crankshaft and camshafts. The timing belt requires regular replacement, unlike a timing chain, which can last the lifetime of the car.

Instructions

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft must also align with their respective timing marks on the crankcase.

Remove the plug from the left side of the engine block by the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft again if necessary. Connect Tool No. 3242 to the crankshaft and tighten it slightly to hold it in place.

Disconnect the upper timing belt covers, crankshaft vibration damper and lower timing belt cover in that order. Loosen the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench, and release the sprockets from the ends of the camshafts.

Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Place a 2 mm spring pin through the holes in the tensioner housing and plunger to hold the plunger in place. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise to release the tensioner.

Remove the mounting bolts for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench and detach the damper from the crankshaft. Disconnect the serpentine belt from the idler pulley and remove the guard for the crankshaft damper. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

Align the timing marks for the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys, if necessary. Place the new timing belt onto the pulleys, so that the arrow on the timing belt points in the clockwise direction.

Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Pull the 2 mm spring pin from the housing of the tensioner plunger. Turn the tensioner roller counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt.

Connect the damper guard for the crankshaft and attach the serpentine belt to the idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolts for the idler pulley bolts to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Replace the crankshaft damper and tighten its mounting bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Fasten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt covers.

Remove Tool No. 3242 from the crankshaft pulley. Install the sealing plug into its hole on the lower left side of the engine with a socket wrench. Attach the accessory drive belt and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

What Is the Benefit of a Transmission Service?

Ask any mechanic and youll be assured that having your transmission serviced on a regular basis is a smart move and will extend its life. Service can range from a basic service check to a pressurized flush. Aside from the fact that a flush replaces the old fluid in your transmission with new fluid, this procedure also cleans the filter and system; in addition, it can identify minor transmission issues before they become major problems.

A general transmission service involves removing the fluid pan, replacing the filter and gasket, and replacing some of the transmission fluid. According to Speed Lube, this routine service extends the life of the transmission. Clean lubricant prevents seals and gaskets from hardening, which can cause metal parts to warp and valves to stick.

A flush replaces all of the vehicles transmission fluid. Pressure is used to push all of the old fluid out so that it can be replaced with new fluid. Flushing also does a good job of cleaning out a transmissions internal parts and its filter.

Both general service and a flush can reveal transmission problems but a flush will give a more accurate indication of what is going on inside your transmission. This is because the pressurized cleaning method helps expose decaying seals and cracks. It will be less costly to replace an old seal or gasket than to wait for serious damage to occur and then have to replace the complete transmission.

Hydraulic Fluid Vs Transmission Fluid

Hydraulic systems such as a vehicles brake system, are systems that operate, moves or are affected by a fluid. Depending on the system, the fluid may be water-based or oil-based.

Hydraulic fluid is a medium that transmits power in a hydraulic system. The viscosity, wear protection, oxidation stability and foaming resistance are typical factors that determines the type of hydraulic fluid. The viscosity of the fluid must match the operating temperature of the hydraulic system.

Transmission fluid is oil that lubricates the moving parts within the transmission. Automatic transmissions also use the fluid as a coolant. Transmission fluid is designed for automatic and manual transmissions. Due to the heat operation of the transmission generates, automatic transmission fluid degrades and breaks down with use.

Transmission fluid is a type of hydraulic fluid. The transmission fluid is a medium that transmits power from the engine to the transmission. Other types of hydraulic fluid include mulitgrade engine oil and conventional, antiwear hydraulic oil.

The Spray in Vs Drop in Bed Liners

Depending on your situation, picking the wrong bed liner can mean the difference between a rusty truck bed and a non-rusty one. The frequency in which you use your truck bed is a deciding factor.

A spray-in bed liner is permanent whereas a drop-in bed liner is not. This is the major difference. A drop-in bed liner allows for more flexibility. A drop-in can be removed at your discretion. Once the spray-in bed liner is applied, it can not be removed.

A spray-in bed liner requires a one time application and is thicker than the drop-in. With a drop-in bed liner, your paint may chafe. The drop-in also allows for moisture to collect between it and your bed, which can lead to rust. The drop-in liner is best for those who want to spend the least amount of money, mainly because they will not keep the truck for very long, or use the bed very often. A spray-in liner will cost you more. However, the spray-in also allows for personalization. If you plan on keeping the truck for a very long time and the color matters to you, then go with the spray-in. The spray-in color can be set to match your truck colors.

With a spray-in there is not much care that is required by the owner. Once the spray-in is complete, you can continue with your day. For drop-ins, you want to move the liner every so often to check if there is any moisture collecting between the liner and the bed. If there is, wipe the moisture away and make sure the drop-in is dry before placing it back into your truck bed.

How to Replace the Fuel Pump in a 97 Lumina Car

The Chevrolet Lumina is a series of coupes, minivans and sedans manufactured from 1990 to 2001. The replacement fuel pump for these vehicles depends on the engine, which may be a six-cylinder 3.4 L engine or a 3.1 L engine. All versions of the 1997 Lumina have sequential fuel injection, meaning that the electric fuel pump on these vehicles uses high pressure to deliver fuel to the fuel injectors. You can access the fuel pump on most 1997 Luminas through a removable access panel in the trunk.

Instructions

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the filler cap for the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail, and connect special tool J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure port. Place the bleed hose for this special tool into a gasoline container. Open the valve on the special tool to bleed the fuel in the fuel system into the gasoline container.

Drain the fuel tank to 1/4 of its capacity, and remove the jack, spare tire and spare tire cover from the trunk. Take out the trunk liner, and unfasten the retaining nuts for the access panel with a socket wrench. Remove the panel, and disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.

Clean the fuel sender assembly with a shop rag, and disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender assembly. Remove the retaining snap ring on the fuel sender assembly with a socket wrench, so that the fuel sender assembly springs up. Remove the fuel sender assembly without handling the fuel pipes. Discard the old O-ring and clean the sealing surfaces for the O-ring.

Place the new O-ring on the fuel tank and install the new fuel sender assembly onto the fuel tank. Avoid folding the fuel strainer and ensure that the fuel strainer does not impede the movement of the float arm for the fuel gauge after the installation is complete.

Replace the retaining snap ring for the fuel sender assembly, and turn the snap ring clockwise with a socket wrench until it fully seats with the fuel tanks tab slots. Attach the electrical connector and quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender assembly. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery, and fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank.

Turn the ignition switch for 2 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition back on and check for leaks in the fuel system. Replace the access cover in the trunk and tighten the retaining nuts to 96 inch-pounds. Replace the trunk liner, jack, spare tire and spare tire cover.

How do I Remove Valve Covers on a 1996 7 3 Diesel

The valve covers sit on the top of the cylinder heads, and removing them will allow you access to the valves, springs, rocker arms, and push rods on your 7.3-liter Powerstroke Diesel. The 1996 7.3-liter was an optional engine in the Ford F250 and F350 Super Duty series trucks. The engine is very durable and has a good torque band, allowing it to pull heavy loads with little to no stress to the engine.

Instructions

Open the hood of your Ford truck and locate the negative battery cable end on the battery terminal. Loosen the clamp bolt on the battery cable end with a wrench then remove the cable from the battery and move it aside, isolating it from the battery.

Locate the retaining bolts along the perimeter of the valve covers on the top of the engine. There are eight of them on each valve cover.

Remove the eight retaining bolts, one at a time, with a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside as you will need them later.

Slide a putty knife or other flat, stiff tool under the edge of the valve cover and pry the cover loose from the head. Lift the valve cover straight off the cylinder head and set it aside. Repeat the process on the second valve cover if you are removing both covers.

Specifications of an NV3500 Transmission

The NV3500 is a five-speed manual transmission found in General Motors and Chrysler trucks.

The manufacturer, New Venture Gear, is a company that was formed through the merger of the manual transmission engineering and manufacturing divisions of GM and Chrysler.

The NV3500 is a fully synchronized, constant mesh transmission. The clutch housing, or bell housing, is an integral component to the transmission and is not meant to be removed. According to DodgeRam.org, the NV3500 "has a single shaft shift mechanism with all three shift forks mounted on the shaft."

The HM290 model, found in GM trucks beginning in 1988, was the forerunner of the NV3500-series transmission. This unit, and the 560 which superseded it, have four shift rails. When this transmission was re-engineered as the NV3500, a single shift rail was used in the design.

There are many design variations of the NV3500, each with unique parts. Two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive variants are available. Another variant is the NV3500HD.

The NV3500 transmission was deployed in the full-size half-ton Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups, Chevrolet S10 and GMC S15 trucks beginning in 1990, and some Dodge Dakota trucks beginning in the 1994 model year.

In the Dakota, the NV3500 is used with V-8 engines including the 3.9-liter and 5.2-liter Dodge powerplants.

According to DodgeRam.org, the NV3500 is rated to a maximum GVWR of 7,200 lbs. and a maximum GCVWR of 11,000 lbs. The NV4500 transmission, built for larger engines, is a heavy-duty transmission for trucks that require greater hauling and towing capabilities.

Antique auto body tools recount the early days of car manufacturing. Henry Ford, the great industrial giant, according to Eye Witness to History, was an example of early 20th-century entrepreneurs who made automobiles affordable for the average working person. The Ford Company established factories with assembly lines of workmen who manufactured cars on a daily basis. Many of the tools these early workers used to construct and repair automobiles are now modernized and remain in use today.

The deluxe tool box was initially designed for the 1928 and 1929 Model A Ford, according to Snyders Antique Auto. This tool box mounted under the radiator, between the front fenders. The deluxe box is situated best when the radiator apron is removed. Its locking lid is ribbed and is curved identically to the shape of the fenders. This box was an accessory and when it was installed it would block the crank hole.

Basic Model A and Model T Ford auto body tools kits included an array of gadgets, many of which were modernized and still used today. Tire irons were usually unpainted and stretched 10 inches long for maximum gripping, according to Model T Restore. Oiling cans were common as were wheel jacks, air pumps and adjustable wrenches. Antique pliers often included a screwdriver blade attached at the bottom of the handle. The heads of pliers opened a maximum of 1 1/4 inches. All pliers were branded with the Ford insignia and remained unpainted.

Grease guns were plated with solid nickel and gasoline sticks were fashioned long and lean for easy measurements. Antique tire gauges were attached with iron hexagon bolts. Once tightened, air pressure would trigger the needle in a handheld gauge, which would display the reading. According to ValveLock, Balloon Standard Tire pressure gauges read pressures from 0 to 80 psi.

What Does an EGR Valve Do in a Mercury Sable

The exhaust gas recirculation valve, or EGR valve, is part of the Mercury Sables emissions control systems. EGR valves, which were introduced in the 1970s, are now included on all automobiles in the United States.

The EGR valve, usually located on the intake manifold, reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) that form in internal combustion engines when temperatures reach 2,500 degrees Fahrenheit or more. Nitrogen and oxygen combine to form NOx, a component of smog.

As its name implies, the EGR valve recirculates exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber. Because the exhaust gases cannot be burned again, the result is cooler temperatures in the combustion chambers---several hundred degrees cooler. This reduces the production of NOx.

The creation of the EGR valve has enabled auto engineers to design more aggressive timing for engines, increasing efficiency and, as a result, improving fuel economy. A malfunctioning EGR valve, however, leads to engine ping and knocking.

There are many reasons to tow a Honda Civic on a tow dolly. A tow dolly is designed to pull a vehicle behind another vehicle with the idle wheels -- non-driving wheels -- on the the ground and the driving wheels off the ground. Some vehicles require a long process to prepare the vehicle for towing on a dolly. The Civic, however, has a very straightforward towing process when using a dolly and requires no special preparation.

Instructions

Park the tow dolly and the Civic on a flat surface. Position the Civic about 8 to 10 feet behind the rear of the dolly.

Grab the dollys ramps and pull them outward until they are fully extended and lay them on the ground.

Enter the Civic and start the ignition.

Place the vehicle in "Drive" for automatic or "First Gear" if operating a standard transmission and slowly drive towards the ramps, using your assistant to guide you.

Continue driving up the ramps, with the guidance of your assistant.

Stop the Civic when your guide tells you that you have reached the dollys platform, the area where the cars front wheels set in.

Place the Civic in "Neutral," set the parking brake, turn the ignition off and exit the Civic.

Place the dollys ratcheting straps over the Civics wheels, as instructed in the dollys instructions. Tighten the straps using the ratchets until the vehicles front wheels are secure.

Remove the key from the Civics ignition, place the Civics gear selector in "Park" if equipped with an automatic or "First" if equipped with a manual transmission and release the parking brake.

Accelerate and stop slowly and evenly, as hard acceleration or braking can cause damage to the towing vehicle.

Negotiate tight turns caully, as the tow dolly will take turns slightly tighter than the towing vehicle. Pay close attention to your side view mirrors when in tight turns.

How to Upholster an Automobile Interior

Older cars often have outdated, torn, or stained interiors. Reupholstering the automobile doors and seats will give your car a new look. The most difficult part of upholstering an automobile is the preparation. In order to reupholster the automobile seats they must be removed. Similarly, you will need to remove the door panel before you can reupholster it with new fabric. Choose an upholstery fabric that is durable and easy to work with. It is especially important to choose a fabric that will not scar if you unpick a seam and have to re-sew it.

Instructions

Take the automobile seats out from the car with a socket wrench. Set the seats on a flat surface that has plenty of room to work.

Remove the hog seams and listing wires from the seats. Lift the upholstery from the seats.

Cut apart the upholstery with a seam ripper. Only cut the seams between the pieces of upholstery fabric so that you can use the old pieces as templates for the new upholstery. Mark or label each piece of the fabric so you know how to piece the new upholstery together.

Place the old pieces of upholstery on top of a length of laid out upholstery fabric. Trace around each piece of upholstery on the new fabric with a piece of chalk or a marker.

Cut out the traced marks on the new upholstery fabric with scissors.

Piece together the pieces of the cut out upholstery fabric. Match up the appropriate edges and sew them together with a inch straight stitch seam. Sew together the entire set of cut out upholstery pieces.

Place the sewn together upholstery on the automobile seats. Replace the listing wires and hog rings in the automobile seats.

Set the car seats back into the car. Secure the seats with a socket wrench.

How do I Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1996 Probe SE

The Ford Probe was a two-door coupe that Ford manufactured from 1989 to 1997. The 1996 model is a member of the second generation of Probes that includes the 1993 to 1997 models. Ford Probes may have a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine or a six-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine. All versions of this vehicle have multiport fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure fuel pump. You must remove the fuel tank of a Ford Probe in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

Start the engine and remove the fuel-pump relay in the engine compartment. Allow the engine to stall and turn off the ignition. Replace the fuel-pump relay.

Drain the fuel tank and remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and exhaust-pipe insulator. Remove the electrical connectors and fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and disconnect the support straps for the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle with the jack stands.

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counterclockwise with a brass drift and hammer. Disconnect the locking ring from the fuel pump and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket.

Put the new gasket into position on the fuel tank and install the new fuel pump. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump clockwise until the flange on the locking ring reaches the stopper. Connect the fuel lines for the fuel pump.

Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and add at least 3 gallons of fuel to the fuel tank. Check the fuel system for leaks, and lower the vehicle. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

How to Replace Injectors in a GMC Duramax Diesel

General Motors has manufactured a series of diesel engines under the Duramax brand since 2001. The primary application for these eight-cylinder, 6.6-liter engines is in heavy trucks requiring low-end torque, like full-size Chevrolet pickups and vans. A Duramax diesel engine uses fuel injectors to send fuel to the cylinders under high pressure. The replacement of the fuel injectors is a relatively simple process, but it also requires the removal of various components to access the injectors.

Instructions

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and drain the coolant from the radiator into a suitable container. Detach the electrical connector for the air cooler from the left side of the turbocharger. Unplug the barometric sensors electrical connector.

Disconnect the clip for the wiring harness on the engine, and remove the wiring harness bracket with a socket wrench. Unplug the electrical connector for the glow plug. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose from the left side of the crankcase.

Use a socket wrench to disconnect the air cleaner outlet duct from the right side of the engine. Loosen the clamps on the hose to the air intake on the right side of the engine and remove the hose. Disconnect the fuel filter and fuel filter bracket from the right side of the engine. Disconnect the fuel injector control module.

Blow compressed air on the fuel lines for the fuel injector. Clean the fuel lines with a shop rag.

Detach the fuel send and return lines from the fuel injectors. Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel injector. Disconnect the bolts on the fuel injector bracket, and install injector removal tool J-46594 into one of the bolt holes. Attach a flare nut wrench to the other end of the injector removal tool and pull the flare nut wrench to unseat the fuel injector.

Lift the fuel injector from its bore. Discard the O-rings and copper washer for the fuel injector.

Mount a new copper washer and O-rings to the new fuel injector. Install the fuel injector, and tighten the bolts on the fuel injector bracket to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector and fuel lines to the fuel injectors. Torque the mounting bolts for the fuel lines to 30 foot-pounds.

Complete the installation of the fuel injectors by performing steps 1 through 3 in reverse order. Refill the coolant in the radiator. Start the engine and check for any fluid leaks.

The drive shaft is a long rod or tube used to carry rotational force from a vehicles engine to the wheels. Drive shafts vary in size, configuration and features. One variation is a hollow drive shaft, used for several reasons.

The engine would have to power the rotation of a solid piece of metal. With a hollow drive shaft, there is less mass for the engine to push and the force it produces is able to accelerate the drive train faster.

Making a hollow drive shaft uses less material than a solid one. With some good engineering, manufacturers can make hollow drive shafts with the same structural integrity as their solid counterparts. The saved material lowers the cost.

Because of the reduced rotational inertia, the engine can get the same push with less work. This translates into fuel efficiency. With less material to push, it takes less fuel to get the same acceleration.

How to Install a Billet Grille on a 2002 Camaro

You can install a billet grille on your 2002 Camaro right from home with a few tools that can be purchased from any hardware store if you dont already have them on hand. The Chevy Camaro was introduced in the 1967 model-year to compete with the Ford Mustang. A billet grille has slats in it in order to allow air and moisture to circulate while at the same time protecting the radiator from damage by rocks and other debris. Remove the old grille first then follow these directions to install the billet grille.

Instructions

Lift up the hood of your Camaro and prop it open with the safety bar.

Ask a helper to hold the billet grille on the front of the vehicle while you attach the bolts through the holes with a socket and ratchet.

Lower the hood of your car.

Ford Focus PCM Problems

The Ford Focus is a popular passenger sedan. It was introduced to the driving public in the 1999 model year and remains in production as of 2011. Some owners of early Focus models have experienced problems with the powertrain control module.

A powertrain control module (PCM) is a computer that regulates the emissions, fuel injection and the spark ignition of the engine. The Service Engine Soon" warning light illuminates whenever a fault is detected by the PCM. The fault is assigned a code and stored in the PCM. All contemporary passenger cars have this on-board computer.

In August of 2000, Ford issued a technical service bulletin warning of a PCM problem in some of the 2000 Focus models. A defect in the PCM causes the engine not to start after it is cranked. This problem was limited to Focus models equipped with an automatic transmission.

Calibration of the PCM can affect throttle response. If the PCM is out of calibration, one of the obvious signs is that the engine surges when the accelerator is released. If the diagnostics cannot pinpoint the condition, the PCM may be reprogrammed to the latest calibration.

How to Replace the Timing Belt on a Lexus 2002 GS 300

The Lexus GS is a mid-size luxury sedan that has been in production since 1993. The 2002 model is a second generation Lexus, which includes the 1997 through 2005 models. The 2002 Lexus GS 300 has a six-cylinder 3.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the rotations of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt should last at least 60,000 miles before requiring replacement.

Instructions

Remove any components needed to access the upper timing belt cover. Disconnect the eight mounting bolts on the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench and remove the upper cover.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a hex wrench to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with the timing marks on the lower timing cover.

Disconnect the timing belt tensioner and its dust cover with a socket wrench. Remove the lower timing belt covers and the guide for the timing belt. Rotate the pulley for the right camshaft clockwise slightly to relieve the tension on the timing belt, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

Replace the lower timing cover and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Turn the right camshaft pulley clockwise to align its timing mark with the corresponding timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. Turn the left camshaft pulley clockwise to align its timing mark.

Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft pulley. Align its installation mark with the edge of the lower timing belt cover.

Place the timing belt on the left camshaft pulley and align the left camshaft timing mark on the timing belt with the timing mark on the left camshaft. Align the timing mark on the left camshaft with its corresponding mark on the lower timing belt cover. Repeat this step with the right camshaft.

Place a plate washer between the engine block and the timing belt tensioner. Press the push rod for the tensioner into its housing to align the hole in the push rod with the hole in the housing. Insert a 0.05 inch Allen wrench into the holes to hold the push rod in place.

Replace the dust cover for the tensioner, and install the tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolts for the tensioner to 20 ft- lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the Allen wrench from the hole in the push rod housing to apply the correct tension to the timing belt.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full turns and align the timing marks once again. Replace the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Install any components removed in step one to access the timing belt.

How to Install a Fuel Injector on a Ford F150

Ford F-150 fuel injectors are designed for long life. While regular cleaning will keep the fuel injectors performing well, fuel injectors have moving parts that wear out. Worn or broken fuel injectors result in inadequate or too much fuel being consumed during the combustion process. Incorrect fuel combustion may result in damage to the engine or catalytic converter. Fuel injectors which are worn or damaged should be replaced. To avoid future failures, if one fuel injector has gone bad due to wear and tear, replacement of all the injectors is recommended.

Instructions

Depressurize the fuel system. If your vehicle is equipped with a fuel safety cut-off switch--usually located on the passenger side front foot panel on the F-150--access and remove the electronic plug. This will disable the fuel pump. Turn on the engine several times to remove any fuel pressure in the lines. The engine will not stay started, this is normal.

Disconnect the battery cables to avoid fire hazards when working with fuel.

Remove any engine shroud, air intake tube, vacuum lines and other bolt-on accessories that restrict access to the fuel rails. Unbolt the fuel rail from the engine. The metal fuel rail will be braced to the engine with one or two bolts.

Remove the fuel injector electronics plug from each injector to be replaced.

Lift the fuel rails off the fuel injectors. Lift the end of the fuel rail closest to the bumper and pop each fuel injector free. Some injectors will stay in the engine and others will remain in the fuel rail. All injectors that are freed from either the engine or fuel rail will need new o-rings.

Remove the fuel injector from both the engine and the fuel rail. Inspect the injector for missing o-rings. Two o-rings should exist, one for the top connection on the fuel rail, and one for the bottom connection to the engine. Locate the missing o-rings and discard.

Replace the o-rings with new o-rings. Lubricate the new o-rings with motor oil and slide over the ends of the fuel injectors. New injectors commonly come with o-rings installed. Lubricate the pre-installed o-rings with motor oil. A drop of oil on your finger smeared on the o-ring is sufficient.

Insert the new fuel injector into the engine hole. Press downward until the fuel injector is seated properly. A popping sensation may be felt, but not always. Pull upward on the injector. A properly seated injector will resist removal.

Replace all o-rings on the injectors from which the fuel rail was removed. Replace the fuel rail on each injector.

Bolt the fuel rail to the engine and replace any bolt-on accessories removed to access the fuel rail. Replace the fuel injector electronics plugs. Replace any vacuum lines removed. Replace the air intake tube. Replace the engine shroud, if equipped.

Reconnect the battery. Reconnect the fuel safety cut-off switch plug. Turn the ignition key to the electronics only mode for five seconds and turn off. Repeat the ignition key on/off sequence twice to allow the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel line. Inspect the fuel rails for leaks and repair. If necessary, return to step 1.

Start the vehicle to confirm installation.

How to Install Fuel Injectors on 94 95 Mustangs

The Mustang is a series of cars manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1964. The 1994 models were the first fourth generation Mustangs and represented a major redesign from the previous generation. The standard for the 1994 and 1995 Mustangs was a 6-cylinder 3.8-liter engine with electronic fuel injection. The fuel injector in these vehicles is located on top of the engine and is part of the fuel supply manifold assembly.

Instructions

Open the fuel tank cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the open end of the hose for the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system and disconnect the pressure gauge from the relief valve.

Release the retaining clips for the fuel lines on the fuel supply manifold and remove the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator. Detach the fuel lines from the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the retaining bolts on the fuel supply manifold with a socket wrench.

Rock the fuel rail assembly back and forth gently to detach it from the fuel injectors. Use the same technique to disconnect the fuel injectors from the intake manifold. Replace any damaged O-rings for the fuel injectors.

Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the O-rings and install them on to the fuel injectors. Connect the fuel injectors to the fuel rail by gently pushing and twisting the fuel injectors. Install the fuel rail assembly onto the fuel supply manifold and ensure the O-rings are properly seated.

Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel supply manifold with a torque wrench. These mounting bolts require a torque of 15 to 22 foot-pounds for the 3.8-liter and 5.0-liter engines and 71 to 106 inch-pounds for the 4.6-liter engines. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel supply manifold and connect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Attach the retaining clips for the fuel lines on the fuel supply manifold.

Turn the ignition on for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel system and start the engine. Check and correct any fuel leaks.

The taillight assembly on the Toyota Camry is a single assembly unit. The bulbs are accessible from the trunk, and the taillight assembly is removable for replacement or cleaning. If your taillight is cracked or broken, you should replace it as soon as possible. If water leaks into the taillight assembly, it can short out the bulbs and cause damage to the cars electrical system. You can buy a replacement taillight assembly from an auto parts retailer.

Instructions

Open the Camrys trunk. Pull the plastic cover off the back of the taillight assembly.

Remove the three nuts securing the taillight assembly with a wrench.

Slide the taillight assembly forward away from the rear of the car. Grasp each bulb and twist it slightly counterclockwise then pull back to remove it.

Remove the taillight assembly from the car once the bulbs are disconnected.

How to Repair a Motorcycle Chain

A motorcycle chain can be repaired if a link is broken or worn out. A C-clip in the master link can be removed to allow removal of the chain from the motorcycle sprockets. The worn-out or broken part of the chain must be disassembled before inserting a new link and C-clip into the existing chain links to complete the repair. The chain can then be put back on the sprockets and the master-link reconnected.

Instructions

Find the master-link in the motorcycle chain. Look for a link with a C-clip interlocking the pin link pins.

Set the tip of a flat-head screwdriver inside the jaws of the C-clip and press down and out so the clip slips out of the circumferential groove of the pin. Slide the closed end of the C-clip off the adjacent pins grooves until it comes free from the chain.

Tap the pin link pins until the pin link slides out of the roller link. Pull the pin link out of the roller link with a pair of pliers. Remove the chain from the sprockets of the motorcycle.

Find the link in the chain that needs to be repaired. Put on a pair of gloves and safety glasses and grasp the chain with both hands so the bad link is in between your hands. Grind down the pin link plate pins until the link plate can be removed with pliers. Pull the pin link out of the roller link.

Insert a replacement pin link through the roller link until the pins come out on the side where the grinding was done. Snap a new C-clip into the grooves of the new pin link to lock the new link in place.

Put the chain back around the motorcycle sprockets. Reassemble the master chain link by inserting the pin link through the roller link and the outer roller link plate. Snap the C-clip back into the pin links grooves. Use the screwdriver if prying is needed to get the jaws of the C-clip open and over the pins.

If you have a vehicle with a sunroof, repairing it when it breaks is a necessity to keep elements from getting into the car. In many cases, a repair may not work, and you will have to take it to a dealer to completely replace it. Reasons for replacing it completely would be a problem in the actual motor of the sunroof not working properly, or in some cases a break in other internal hardware that cannot be reached with a simple repair kit. In some scenarios, repairing it can be the solution.

Instructions

Choose the model of sunroof that fits your car. There are sunroof kits available at your auto parts store that will correspond to the make and model of your car.

Place the template that comes with the sunroof kit unto the top of your sunroof. The template will help you see what the problems could be. The kit will also include manufacturers directions; read through them thoroughly.

Crank the sunroof open with a socket wrench little by little so you can isolate exactly where the sunroof is broken.

Remove the broken part of the sunroof and use your manufacturers kit to replace it. The manufacturers kit will have different components to use to replace broken parts. Use the manufacturers directions for specific information on replacing the part.

Test to make sure that parts have been installed correctly by cranking with the socket wrench slowly until the roof recedes back down. You can also test for leaks by gently squeezing water and looking at the underside to see if it is seeping through.

How to Check the Hub Assembly on a 2002 Venture

2002 Chevrolet Venture minivans use a sealed hub design for both front wheels. In this design, the wheel hub and bearing are pressed together in a non-serviceable unit. As the vehicle ages, the bearing portion of the hub unit can fail, causing an excessive grinding or humming noise when the vehicle is driven, especially at highway speeds. In addition to bearing failure, the hub flange can become warped causing similar symptoms. A dial indicator must be used to accurately measure the looseness and runout of the wheel hub unit in order to accurately diagnose a faulty assembly.

Instructions

Lift the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands under each control arm in order to load the ball joint. Check to make sure that the vehicle is securely supported. Loosen the hub cap nuts, if equipped, with a 19 mm metric socket and ratchet. Remove the hub cap.

Secure a dial indicator to base stand in front of the wheel. Adjust the dial indicator so its plunger is at a 90-degree angle to flat, inside face of the wheel, adjacent to the lug nuts.

Zero the dial indicator, then grip the top of the tire with both hands. Push and pull on the top of the tire; towards the tire on the other side and then back towards your body.

Note the reading on the dial indicator while moving the tire back and forth. If the movement exceeds 0.005-inches, then the wheel bearing has excessive play and must be replaced.

Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the automotive jack and remove the stands. Set the vehicle back on the ground. Break the lug nuts loose using a 19 mm lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it once again with the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

Reinstall two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Install a C-clamp over of the brake caliper so the fixed end of the clamp is resting against the inside of the caliper and the movable end is resting against the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to squeeze the brake caliper piston back into the caliper. This allows the brake caliper to slide off easily.

Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle with a ratchet and a metric socket. Pry the brake caliper bracket and caliper away from the rotor as an assembly and tie it to the coil spring with a length of mechanics wire. Dont allow it to hang from the brake hose.

Remove the lug nuts holding the rotor in place and remove the rotor from the steering knuckle. Clean the hub flange with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. Shift the transmission into neutral.

Set the dial indicator against the hub flange at a 90-degree angle, and then zero the dial indicator. Rotate the flange clockwise and note the reading on the dial indicator. If the needle movement exceeds .005-inches, then the hub flange has excessive run out and the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

A stuck car horn can prove to be quite an embarrassment, especially if you cannot get it to stop quickly. And if you happen to be parked on a crowded street, it is even worse. The problems that can affect a car horn vary, so you may have to do a little troubleshooting to get it unstuck. Be prepared to take several minutes to get the horn to stop blowing if none of the easier options work.

Instructions

Press the horn again or tap it a few times. This may get the horn unstuck. If not, proceed to Step 2.

Turn off your engine. Refer to your car manuals circuit descriptions to learn where the fuse box is located. Find your fuse box and pull the horns fuse. If you can pull the fuse, this will silence the horn. If you cannot remove the fuse or find the fuse box, proceed to Step 3.

Open your cars hood. Locate the horn. If you can see the rear of the horn, you may be able to see the wires. In that case pull the wires. If you cannot pull them, use scissors or a knife to cut one of the wires. If you resorted to cutting the wire, make sure to tape the loose end so as to not short out your cars electrical system. If you are unable to locate the horn or disconnect the wires, proceed to Step 4.

Locate your car battery. Disconnect the main wires running to your battery with a wrench. Doing this may reset the car horn. Reattach the wires. If the horn goes back on, disconnect the wires again and proceed to an auto mechanic to get the horn fixed. If it does not go back on, also go to the mechanic to look into the problem.

93 Ford Ranger Transmission Crossmember Bolts Are Stuck

Ford equipped the 1993 Ranger pickup with a crossmember to support the weight of the transmission. The crossmember bolts to the longitudinal frame members running down the sides of the truck. Due to the exposed position of the bolts, road treatment, moisture and grit tend to corrode the crossmember bolts and make them difficult to remove. Remove bolts that do not release with penetrating oil by using aggressive techniques.

Instructions

Place a jack under the transmission. Place a block of wood on top of the jack pad, then raise the jack until the block contacts the transmission case behind the transmission oil pan. Raise the transmission slightly, just enough to take the load off the crossmember.

Place the nut splitter over the nut on the crossmember bolt. Tighten the threaded part of the nut splitter until the splitter blade squarely contacts one of the flats on the nut. Ensure the blade only bears on the nut, not the washer.

Install a ratchet and socket onto the hex head of the nut splitter. Firmly hold the splitter in place and turn the hex head using the ratchet and socket, until the nut is completely cut through and pops loose.

Back off on the splitter until it can be removed from the nut and bolt. Remove the bolts from the crossmember.

Install the new bolts and tighten them to 48 to 63 foot-pounds on 3.0 liter models, or 65 to 85 foot-pounds on 2.3 and 4.0 liter models using a foot-pound torque wrench, socket and wrench.

Pages

Monday, November 17, 2014

Instructions

Front Bumper

Rear Bumper

Instructions

Remove Fuel Tank

Install Lights

Instructions

Instructions

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Instructions

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Instructions

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

I-Beam

Oval Beams

H-Beams

Implications

Saturday, June 7, 2014

Instructions

Friday, June 6, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Serpentine Belt Squealing

Engine Overheats

Dead Battery

Instructions

What are the Torque Converter Components?

How does a Torque Converter Operate?

What Does the Lock-Up Clutch do?

Instructions

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Your Cars Theme

Use Ergonomic Design

Consider Reshaping Hardware

Use Patterns Sparingly

Choose Complementary Textures

Lighting and Sound

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Instructions

Calculating Intake Runner Diameter

Calculating Intake Runner Length

Instructions

Removal

Installation

Monday, May 19, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Sunday, May 18, 2014

Instructions

C-Clamp

Dual Piston Press

Piston Cube

Piston Tool Set

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Instructions

General Benefits

Full Transmission Flush Benefits

Discovering Transmission Issues

Friday, May 16, 2014

Hydraulic Fluid

Transmission Fluid

Comparision

Permanence

Benefits vs. Drawbacks

Care

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Instructions

Instructions

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Design

Variations

Model Lines

Hauling Capacity

Deluxe Tool Box

Basic Tool Kits