September 2013 ~ Repair And Fix it

Monday, September 30, 2013

How to Quiet an Exhaust System

Loud exhaust systems can result in tickets in many states. They can also be an annoyance to yourself and others. Your exhaust system could be loud either because of alterations intended to increase the vehicles performance, or because of failing equipment. Regardless of the reason, there are permanent as well as temporary ways to quiet an excessively loud exhaust system.

Instructions

Make sure the catalytic converters and the mufflers are working properly. If they become damaged or have been bored out to increase performance, they can be very loud. In most cases, the check engine light will be on if the muffler or catalytic converter are damaged or altered.

Change the mufflers. On most vehicles there are four bolts which hold the muffler onto the tail pipe. If you have dual exhaust, there will be two mufflers. Glass pack mufflers tend to be very loud, but also tend to allow the best airflow. Reactive mufflers are included on most vehicles and are much quieter. Changing your muffler to a quieter one might affect your performance, but can make your vehicle quieter.

Replace your tail pipes. Larger diameter tailpipes tend to be louder than smaller diameter tailpipes. Often larger tailpipes are added to increase performance. If you dont want to reduce your tailpipe size, consider a crossover tailpipe. A crossover lets air travel between two exhaust pipes, which causes the pressure to equalize between the two pipes. The result is higher performance and less volume. If no alterations have been made to your tailpipes, this step will not be appropriate.

Drill two very small holes in your tailpipe, about 10 inches from the end.

Shove a wad of steel wool into the tailpipe. The wad of steel wool should go in as far as the holes that were drilled. The steel wool will work as a damper to absorb some of the sound without a dramatic effect on the vehicles performance.

Thread the wire into one hole, through the steel wool and out the other hole. Twist it around the tail pipe to secure it.

A36 is the designation assigned by ASTM International to the most commonly used steel alloy in the United States. It is a good general purpose steel and easily welded through normal processes, such as stick, MIG and oxyacetelyne welding.

A36 steel is a mild, or low-carbon steel. It is 99 percent iron and contains small amounts of carbon, manganese, copper, phosphorus and sulfur. Its tensile strength is 58,000 to 79,800 psi, while its yield strength is 36,300 psi and its elongation is 20 percent.

A36 steel is made through a hot-rolling process, meaning its heated to a little above its recrystallization temperature and squeezed between rollers, and has a somewhat rough surface. It is available in the form of plates, rods, bars, angles, channels, H-beams and I-beams.

ASTM International is the organization that develops standards, test methods, guides, specifications and practices in a number of fields, including construction and other materials, consumer products and medical devices. It also provides training for industry on specific standards. It was formerly known as the American Society for Testing and Materials.

Threaded Insert Removal Tool

Threaded inserts are a type of hardware inserted into a hole in a material with no threads, allowing the installation of a threaded item such as a bolt. Removing the insert is necessary if the threads are damaged and no longer allow the insertion of a threaded fastener.

A standard threaded insert removal tool is T-shaped with a shaft length of between 4 and 6 1/8 inches long, a handle that is 3 to 4 inches long and different-size wedge bits for removing different insert sizes. A tap and die set or a standard drill are useful for removing some types of inserts.

Use the T-shaped tool to remove tanged inserts and screwlock inserts. A drill or tap and die work when removing keylocking inserts. A drill is also useful for removing plastic threaded inserts.

When using a drill, make sure the bit is no larger than the original hole. Using a larger bit will damage the parent material.

Why the Battery Goes Dead on My 1984 BMW 318I

When it comes to troubleshooting the dying battery on your 1984 BMW 318I it can be a bit tricky as there may be several reasons its happening. The most common issues involve manual error or electrical faults.

When you own an older vehicle you need to make sure youre keeping up with all maintenance, including tightening or replacing your alternator belt. If your belt is loose it will not crank the alternator properly which, in turn, will not generate electricity for you.

This model BMW has a computer on board, so having the ignition in off position and having the key removed should produce very little battery drain. If you hook up a voltmeter to the battery it should read between 20 to 50 milliamps. If its higher, then you may have an electrical device draining your battery when the cars off.

Battery life is limited, so after several years of owning one if its giving you trouble, the issue just may be a bad battery. Take your car to a local mechanic, or even a parts store, and he will typically test for free and let you know if your battery is bad.

How to Check to See If You Have a Spark Coming Out of the Ignition Coil Wire

If your vehicle isnt starting when the engine is turning over, you may not be getting spark to the spark plugs through the ignition coil. You can check this by performing a simple test. This task is relatively easy but you will need an assistant so that you can simultaneously perform some of the necessary functions detailed in the procedure. Figuring out the cause of the problem that you are experiencing with your vehicle is half the battle.

Instructions

Park your vehicle on a flat surface.

Open your hood to access your engine compartment.

Pull the nearest spark plug wire off the top of the spark plug to expose the end of the wire

Connect the exposed end of the wire to the top of an extra spark plug. Set the spark plug against one of the metal surfaces on the engine.

Ask your assistant to start the vehicle. If you see a spark come from the spark plug, then there is spark coming from the ignition coil because the wire is attached to the ignition coil.

How to Test Electric Oil Pressure Gauges

Oil pressure in an engine is critical to proper operation and to avoiding irreparable damage to internal engine parts. Electric oil pressure gauges sense the oil pressure inside the engine, then transmit the pressure information to the gauge inside the vehicle. A malfunctioning oil pressure sensor may send erroneous information to the gauge. Test the sensor before you replace the gauge. The sensor screws into the engine block, which connects to the gauge by a wire that is routed through the firewall to the gauge on the dashboard.

Instructions

Find the oil pressure specification for your model vehicle and engine size in your owners manual or a vehicle service manual for your car. Find the voltage and resistance parameters for the oil pressure sensing unit in your vehicles service manual.

Disconnect the wires that attach to the oil pressure sensing unit. Its usually located on the bottom of the engine near the oil filter. Attach the multimeter that leads to the sensor and then start the vehicle. Check the multimeter and note the voltage and resistance reported by the multimeter.

Turn off the vehicle and disconnect the multimeter. Connect the potentiometer to the oil pressure sensing unit by connecting one lead to the blue and white wire on the sensor and the other potentiometer connection to the ground connection on the frame.

Set the potentiometer to the resistance (in ohms) as specified by your owners or service manual. Start the vehicle. Check the reading on the potentiometer and note the resistance. Turn off the vehicle, disconnect the potentiometer and reconnect the leads to the oil pressure sensor.

Replace an oil pressure sending unit that returns values outside the acceptable range for your model vehicle. Replace the electronic oil pressure gauge if the sending unit tested within acceptable ranges.

How to Disconnect EGR on a G20

The Infiniti G20 was last produced for the 2002 model year. The car, like all modern cars, came with an EGR, or Exhaust Gas Recirculation, valve. This valve regulates fuel vapor and keeps your emissions system in check, making the G20 operate more efficiently. If the EGR valve is not functioning, youll need to disconnect it from the G20 so you can replace it with a new one. Do not, under any circumstances, operate the G20 without an EGR valve in place. This can cause engine damage.

Instructions

Turn off the G20s engine. Open the hood. Inspect the engine compartment to find the EGR valve. Look next to the large air hose on the left side of the engine. Youll see the EGR valve here. The valve is metal and shaped like a small can. It has a black vacuum hose coming from it as well as an electrical harness.

Depress the tab on the electrical harness and pull it away from the EGR valve to disconnect it. Grasp the end of the vacuum hose and gently pull it away from the EGR valve port. You may have to wiggle it a bit. Do not use a tool to remove the vacuum hose; simply use your hands. Using a tool, such as pliers, could damage the hose.

Remove the two Phillips screws from the top edge of the EGR valve. Set the screws aside.

Remove the two bolts from the side of the EGR valve. Use a ratchet with an extension for leverage. If you have trouble removing the bolts, spray a bit of penetrating solvent on them and let it set for about five minutes. This should help loosen them and make them easier to remove.

Pull the EGR valve straight up to remove it from the engine compartment.

Nuts and bolts are the glue that hold together our mechanical contraptions. These simple devices are one of the most important inventions of the mechanical age. The 12.9 bolt is a higher tensile bolt made from alloy steel that is quenched and tempered. They are commonly used at high stress points in connecting devices.

A 12.9 bolt is one of the highest grade of bolts produced. Known for their high tensile strength, they are built with both hex and Torx heads and are available in zinc or chrome finishes. A 12.9 bolt is tightened with a torque wrench to 90 percent of its proof load. Because of their hardened surfaces, lock washers are ineffective because they cant bite into the metal.

The strength of a 12.9 bolt is rated in MPa, or megapascals. A Megapascal is equal to one million pascals. A pascal is a unit of pressure that is equal to one newton of force applied over an area of one square meter. A newton (N) is a measurement of force relative to gravity. One newton is equal to the force required to accelerate one kilogram, at a speed of one meter per second.

The shear strength of a bolt is a measurement of the minimum amount of force needed to break the bolt into two pieces. The shear strength of a metal bolt is approximately 0.6 times its tensile strength. A bolt commonly shears where its head meets the threads.

The minimum tensile strength of a 12.9 bolt is 1220 MPa. Therefore, the approximate shear strength of a 12.9 bolt is 732 MPa. The minimum yield strength of a bolt is the pressures needed to stretch the metal of the bolt. A 12.9 bolt has a minimum yield strength of 1100 MPa.

2000 Dodge Truck Alignment Specifications

Dodge produced several trims of the 4x2 and 4x4 Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 in 2000, as well as 4x2 and 4x4 trims of the Dakota pickup truck. Each model came with its own alignment specifications. Some trims of a given model shared certain alignment specs, but several trims came with distinct alignment guidelines. Before making any adjustments to the alignment of a vehicle, it is important to clarify that the specs apply to the exact make, model and year of the vehicle being worked on.

The alignment specs for all trims of the 2000 Ram 1500 4x2 are the same, except for the caster angle specs for the Club Cab and Quad Cab trims. The alignment is not adjustable on the rear end of the vehicle. For the front end, the caster angle limits are +1.0 to +3.65 degrees on all trims except for the Club Cab and Quad Cab trims, for which the limits are +1.0 degrees to +4.0 degrees. The caster angle cross tolerance is +0.5 degrees for all trims. The camber angle should be set at +0.5 degrees on all trims. The ideal toe-in is +0.1 degrees.

As with the 2000 Ram 1500 4x2, the alignment specs were the same for all trims of the 2000 Ram 2500 4x4 (except for the caster angle on the Club Cab and Quad Cab trims). The alignment is not adjustable on the rear end. The caster angle limits for the front end are +1.0 degree to +2.68 degrees for all trims other than the Club Cab and Quad Cab, for which the limits are +1.0 degrees to +2.8 degrees. The toe-in should be set at +0.1 degrees. According to the "Wheel Alignment Specifications" manual by the Naas Publishing Company, Dodge did not specify a camber angle for the 4x4 trims of Ram pickup trucks in 2000.

The caster angle limits for the front end of the 2000 Dodge Dakota 4x4 are +0.5 degrees to +3.16 degrees for all trims except for the Club Cab, for which the limits are +0.4 degrees to +3.16 degrees. The cross tolerance is +0.5 degrees for all trims. The camber angle limits are -0.25 degrees to +0.5 degrees, with a cross tolerance of +0.5 degrees. The front toe-in can range from +0.06 degrees to +0.1 degrees. The ideal thrust angle is +0.4 degrees.

Grand Am Tech Tips

The Pontiac Grand Am was originally offered as a mid-sized car and was later remodeled to a more compact style by its manufacturer, General Motors. Owners of Pontiac Grand Ams can typically extend the life and use of their vehicle by following a few simple tips. To help insure safety, however, automotive concerns should always be inspected by a certified mechanic.

Noise that becomes noticeable when the brakes are applied on a Pontiac Grand Am can be caused due to a number of reasons. A common reason for noise when the brakes are applied is dust in the brakes or worn down brake pads. If the brake pads are new and you have been able to rule out dust as the culprit, another common reason that could be causing the brakes to make noise is a problem between the caliper piston and the steel interface, which is typically noticed during slow speed braking. Brakes that make noise of any kind should be inspected by a certified mechanic in order to determine the problem and prevent additional damage to the brake system.

If the coolant level warning light appears on your dash, your first step should be to check your coolant to ensure that your levels are sufficient. If the light comes back on after checking to ensure that you have enough coolant, the problem may be with the chamber in the coolant reservoir. Often times, the culprit is sediment that has collected in the reservoir and settled down around the bottom of the float. This sediment causes the float to stick to the bottom, incorrectly signaling the engine that the reservoir is empty. Try removing the coolant reservoir and shaking it upside down. This should release the float from being stuck to the bottom. If after replacing the reservoir, the light remains, the problem may be a faulty fuse that needs replacement.

A broken speedometer can not only be frustrating, it can lead to a speeding ticket. When a speedometer has stopped working, its often due to a faulty fuse that is connected to the speedometer. When the fuse stops working, it stops sending power to the vehicles computer, making it impossible to determine what speed you are actually going. If the rest of the gauges are working, but the speedometer is not, try replacing the fuse. If after replacing the fuse, the speedometer still does not work, you may have an electrical short in your dash that will need to be inspected by a certified mechanic.

Because an auto starter is responsible for cranking your engine, failure of this part can leave you without transportation. Current draw, testing methods and other helpful tips can all be beneficial auto starter information.

The amount of current that a starter pulls varies depending on its type. A well working starter can draw up to 150 amps while cranking a vehicle with a four-cylinder engine. In bigger vehicles with V8 engines, starters can draw over 200 amps during cranking.

Using a battery, jumper cables, and a large sized bench vice to secure it, you can test a starter after removing it from the vehicle. By connecting the starter to the battery with jumper cables, you can study the speed at which the starters motor spins to determine if its spinning too slow and needs replacing.

Starters are often wrongly suspected to be the cause of engines that fail to start. To avoid purchasing a new starter when you dont need it, you should make certain other checks first, such as on the battery. Voltage tests on the battery will sometimes reveal that it is lacking the needed voltage to power up your starter.

Cross threading occurs when the threads of a bolt shift off center and cut into the female threads of a threaded hole or nut. The cross threading damage caused by the bolt occurs in the top female threads of the threaded hole or nut. Cutting new threads on the cross-threaded bolt and the damaged female threads will repair the damage.

Instructions

Match a socket to the head of the cross-threaded bolt. Attach the socket to a ratchet handle. Turn the bolt counterclockwise to remove it from the part.

Thread the bolt into a thread gauge.

Select a tap matching the diameter and the thread count of the bolt into a T-handle tap wrench. Pour cutting fluid onto the threads of the tap and damaged part threads.

Turn the tap clockwise to thread it into the damaged part threads.

Set the head of the bolt in a vise with the bolt threads facing up. Lock the head of the bolt into the vise jaws.

Secure a die -- matching the bolts size and thread count -- into a die socket. Turn the die socket clockwise to cut new threads on the bolt.

Thread the bolt into the threaded part.

How to Remove the Steering Wheel on a 65 66 Mustang

Ford released the Mustang late in the 1964 model year. The 1965 model year brought about the elimination of the 260-cubic-inch V-8 engine in favor of the 289-cubic-inch V-8, which had 36 more horsepower. The 1966 model year brought few changes to the Mustang. The most famous change was the addition of the "floating horse" to the grille. Replacing the steering wheel on 1995 and 1966 Mustang is a fairly straightforward process.

Instructions

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, using a combination wrench.

Rotate the horn button assembly -- horn button and three chrome arms in the center of the steering wheel -- counterclockwise to unlock it and pull the button assembly from the steering wheel. Make certain to catch the horn spring if it pops out.

Remove the steering wheel retaining nut, using a ratchet and a 15/16-inch socket.

Draw a matchmark line on the steering wheel and the shaft it mounts onto, using white marking paint. This allows for correct alignment of the steering wheel when reinstalling it.

Install a steering wheel puller on the steering wheel and use the puller to free the steering wheel from the column. The exact instruction for the use of the steering wheel puller depends on the type of puller, so refer to the pullers instruction for specific details.

Pull the steering wheel off the column slowly, as to not disturb any components in the steering column. Remove the steering wheel puller once the steering wheel is off the column.

Draw a matchmark line on the new steering wheel, if applicable, as closely to the line on the old steering wheel as possible.

Position the steering wheel so the lines match, and push the steering wheel onto the shaft. Tighten the steering wheel retaining nut to 20 to 30 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and a 15/16-inch socket.

Set the horn spring behind the horn button. Set the horn button assembly back on the center of the steering wheel and rotate it clockwise to lock it in place.

Reinstall the negative battery cable and tighten it to 11 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

Changing the fuel tank on a recent Dyna Super Glide is much more difficult now that it was as recently as 2005. Since 2006, all Harley Dyna Models have been equipped with the closed loop, Delphi electronic fuel injection. This electronic black box system often confuses the diagnosis of engine problems and complicates what were once routine maintenance and repair chores. The good news is that you will not need a laptop to remove and replace your gas tank. The bad news is that the job is now considerably less intuitive than it used to be.

Instructions

Pull the electrical caddy cover off -- on the right side of the bike near the battery compartment -- with your hands. Put the blades of two, small flat-head screwdrivers on either side of the fuel pump fuse and pry out the fuse.

Shift the bike into neutral, start the engine and wait for the engine to die. Try to start the bike for another five seconds.

Remove the seat fender tab screw and washer with an Allen wrench. Pull the seat back and up to expose the battery. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery post with an open end wrench.

Reach under the tank and pull up on the fuel tank fitting and simultaneously pull down on the fuel line.

Unscrew the acorn nut in the middle of the instrument panel with an Allen wrench. Pull the panel up and pull apart the plug and socket ends of the fuel pump module connector.

Plug one end of a short section of 5/16-inch diameter hose with a 5/16-inch diameter bolt. Constrict a worm-style hose clamp around the bolt by turning the adjusting screw with a screwdriver.

Position a large gas can next to the left side of the motorcycle near the fuel tank. Cut off one of the two clamps from the ends of the crossover hose with tin snips.

Hold the open end of the short section of 5/16 hose next the crossover hose fitting that you just unclamped. In as close to one motion as possible, replace the unclamped end of the crossover hose with the short section of 5/16-inch hose and insert the free end of the crossover hose into the fill hole of the pre-positioned gas can.

Drain the gasoline into the gas can. Clean up any spillage with rags and immediately carry the rags to a well-ventilated location.

Loosen the remaining hose clamp on the crossover line and the clamp on the continuous vent line with a screwdriver. Pull both lines off their fittings.

Loosen and remove both the front and rear mounting bolts, washers and nuts under the tank with an open end wrench. Pull the male and female halves of the fuel gauge connector apart.

Remove the tank by lifting straight up. Carry the tank to a well-ventilated location and allow the tank to air out.

Remove the 10 top plate screws from the top plate of the old tank with a Torx socket and socket wrench. Remove the top plate and top plate gasket. Discard the gasket and the screws.

Reach into the tank and push down on the fuel pump to remove it from the fuel pump housing so it will fit through the hole. Remove the complete fuel pump assembly including the fuel pump, fuel pump housing, fuel filter screen, hose, fuel level sender and float from the old fuel tank.

Loosely attach the new fuel tank to the mounting brackets with the front and rear tank mounting bolts, washers and nuts using an open-end wrench. Install the old crossover line and vent line to the new tank using new hose clamps and a screwdriver. Tighten the front and rear mounting bolts with an open-end wrench.

Install the old fuel pump hose and a new fuel line hose clamp on the fuel filter fitting. Install the complete old fuel pump assembly in the new tank until the rubber spacer on the bottom of the assembly rests on the bottom of the new fuel tank.

Reconnect the fuel line. Reconnect the fuel pump module connector.

Replace the instrument panel and tighten the acorn nut with an Allen wrench.

Re-install the fuel pump fuse in the electrical caddy. Replace the electrical caddy cover.

Reconnect the loose cable to the negative battery post with an open-end wrench. Replace the seat. Refasten the seat mounting tab to the rear fender with an Allen wrench.

Refuel the motorcycle.

How to Install a Benwil Lift

Until the 1990s, Benwil lifts were the featured car lift for General Motors and Chryslers garage equipment program. Although Benwil is no longer in business, thousands of Benwil car lifts can be found throughout the United States. Benwil lifts are a popular and inexpensive option for car enthusiasts who want a quality car lift at an affordable price. Although spare parts are no longer available from Benwil, you can purchase parts from generic car-lift parts suppliers. Each of Benwils 29 car lift models has its own installation instructions, but an overview of the set-up methods for the TP-7 model will provide you with a general guide you can apply to your particular installation.
Instructions

How to Change a Fuel Pump in a 1995 Volvo 960

The Volvo 900 series is a range of mid-size cars manufactured by Volvo Cars. The Volvo 960 was a luxury car produced from 1990 to 1997, with the 1995 model representing major changes in design. It had a six-cylinder 2.9-liter engine with electronic fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump in the 1995 Volvo 960 is accessible from the floor of the rear seat.

Instructions

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Connect adapter 999-5484 to fuel drainage unit 981-2270. Remove the cap from the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Close the adapter valve, and connect it to the pressure relief valve. Turn the drainage unit on, and open the adapter valve. Raise the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the valve cap on the fuel filter. Connect hose 999-5480 to the valve on the fuel filter, and drain fuel from the fuel system for about two minutes. Disconnect hose 999-5480 from the fuel filter valve, and replace the valve cap. Lower the vehicle. Disconnect the adapter from the pressure relief valve, and replace the cap on the pressure relief valve.

Move the rear seat forward. Fold back the carpet over the right wheel well panel, and remove the panel to expose the fuel pump. Disconnect the electrical connections for the fuel pump, and loosen the quick-connect fittings for the fuel lines to the fuel pump. Turn the retaining nut on the fuel pump counterclockwise with tool 999-5485, and carefully remove the fuel pump. Discard the rubber seal under the fuel pump.

Install a new rubber seal, and apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the seal. Install the pump so the heater connection faces to the right of the vehicle. Attach the retaining nut to the fuel pump with tool 999-5484 and tighten it to 30 foot-pounds.

Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the fuel lines, and connect them to the fuel pump. Ensure that you properly seat the quick-connect fittings onto the pump. Attach the electrical connector to the fuel pump.

Replace the panels and carpeting in the rear of the vehicle, and move the rear seat back to its upright position. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

How Do I Install a Brake Controller on a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban

The Chevrolet Suburban is a large sport utility vehicle that has the same platform as the Chevrolet C/K series of pickup trucks. The 2007 model has an anti-lock braking system (ABS), like most vehicles of this period. The ABS uses a brake controller, known as an electronic brake control module (EBCM), to determine the amount of braking force to apply to the wheels. The procedure for installing a brake controller in a 2007 Suburban is the same for similar vehicles such as the Escalade, Tahoe and Yukon.

Instructions

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands.

Locate the EHCU under the vehicle on the drivers side next to the driveshaft. The EHCU is an assembly consisting of the EBCM, the brake pressure modulator valve, or BPMV, and a mounting bracket. It is roughly the shape of a cube 3 inches on a side when it is fully assembled. Wash the area around the EHCU to remove any dirt.

Disconnect the mounting screws for the EBCM with a socket wrench, and detach the EBCM from the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV). The BPMV is the small box-shaped component that is connected to the brake lines. Clean the mounting surface on the BPMV with a clean shop rag.

Mount the new EBCM to the BPMV, and fasten new screws to the EBCM with a socket wrench. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Connect a scan tool to the vehicles data link connector, and program the new EBCM using the scan tools tire-size calibration function. Turn the ignition on and perform the diagnostic system check.

How to Adjust a Horton Clutch Fan

All automotive engines use a fan to keep the engine cool during operation. If you are having problems with your engine overheating, it could be due to the Horton clutch fan installed in your car. When the fan does not operate, the engine overheats and turns off. As this could happen during operation, adjusting the Horton clutch fan could keep it attached to the serpentine belt on your engine. You dont have to be a car mechanic to adjust the clutch fan. You can do it yourself with little hassle.

Instructions

Park your car on a level surface, and apply the emergency brake. Pop the hood, so you gain access to the engine.

Use a socket to remove the upper fan shroud from the Horton clutch fan. This is the protective piece on the top of the fan.

Use a belt tool to suspend the serpentine belt. Make sure that the serpentine belt is making contact with the Horton clutch fan. Adjust or replace the belt if needed.

Use a socket set to loosen the bolts securing the clutch fan to the car. Adjust the fan so you can get a good fit on the serpentine belt if needed.

Tighten the bolts and situate the serpentine belt to the fan. Release the belt by removing the belt tool. Close the hood.

How to Remove a Catalytic Converter in a 1991 Buick

A catalytic converter can become clogged over time and need to be replaced. A clogged converter will cause a lot of back pressure in the engine, which results in poor fuel economy and loss of power to the engine. Your 1991 Buick will feel like its struggling when you need the power the most. The catalytic converter can be easily removed from the car, and the process only takes about 30 minutes.

Instructions

Park your Buick on a level surface and set the parking brake.

Place a wheel chock in front of one of the front tires.

Raise your Buick with an automobile jack and place a jack stand under the vehicles frame near a jack point for safety.

Remove the connecting bolts from the front end of the catalytic converter with the proper sized wrench and remove the bolts from the back end.

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust system.

The Torque Wrench Wont Go Low Enough

Torque wrenches can be used for all sorts of precise tightness settings, but fine settings require using the right type of wrench. Not every torque wrench will work at very small tightness levels. As a result, the mechanic or repairer needs to obtain the right tool with the correct precision.

Instructions

Reference your engine or application manual for the assembly being worked on for the correct tightness setting value required. Examine your torque wrench to determine if it is an electronic or ratchet-type torque wrench. Purchase one if you do not have one of either type.

Position the torque wrench so you can see the measurement settings. Compare the setting to the value needed. Set the ratchet-type wrench to the correct setting and lock it in place with the twist lock at the bottom of the wrench. Use the electronic torque wrench if the value is less than the first setting on a ratchet-type wrench (i.e., you need a finer value than the standard measurements provided).

Preset the electronic wrench to the value needed. Insert the correct socket at the top of the wrench. Apply the wrench to the nut or bolt needing tightening. Slowly tighten until you hear and feel a click with the ratchet-type wrench or a beep from the electronic wrench. Take the torque wrench off the nut or bolt and move on to the next assembly step.

How to Replace Belts on a 2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor

Replacing the serpentine belt on the Mitsubishi Endeavor is necessary if the belt is starting to stretch, has damage on it, or is extremely worn. The belt drives all the accessories on the front of the engine and if it fails, the engine may overheat, the alternator will not produce electricity and the power steering will not work. Replacement belts are available at most auto-parts stores. Check your serpentine belt often and replace it before it breaks.

Instructions

Locate the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal. Remove the retaining bolt from the battery cable end with a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery. Isolate the cable from the battery terminals while you are working on the belt.

Locate the belt tensioner on the front of the engine between the alternator and the water pump. Loosen the axis bolt, the bolt in the center of the tensioners pulley, with a socket and ratchet but do not remove it.

Locate the adjusting bolt on the bottom of the tensioner, just below the pulley, then turn it counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet until the belt is loose. Remove the belt from the pulleys and discard it.

Install the new belt over the pulleys, following the same path as the original belt, then tighten the adjustment bolt by turning it clockwise. Tighten the belt until you can push the belt down 1/8- to -inch between the pulleys.

Tighten the axis bolt on the tensioner pulley with a socket and ratchet. Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal, install the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

What to Do If Your Transmission Is Leaking

If youve driven your car away from your garage or parking spot and noticed a puddle of fluid under it, you could have a transmission leak. Without transmission fluid, your gears have nothing to lubricate them against the effects of friction. Therefore, they become stripped and cannot create motion. In addition, transmission fluid provides the hydraulic force necessary to shift gears. Repairing a leak as soon as you discover it could save you the expense of buying a new transmission --- potentially thousands of dollars.

Seeing a puddle of reddish-brown fluid under your car when you move away is one sign of a leaky transmission, but there are several other signs. Low transmission fluid can cause gears to be unresponsive or to slip when shifting. Also, if you hear the sound of gears grinding, its a sign that you need to check your transmission fluid levels. According to California State University Automotive, you can also determine the state of your transmission fluid by its color: as fluid ages, it changes color from red to brownish-red or dark pink.

To locate the leak, elevate your car with a jack and look under the middle toward the front. Repairing the leak will require you to take the car to a mechanic. Leaks toward the front of the vehicle indicate a bad seal or gasket. Fluid typically leaks from either a seal or from the fluid pan. If fluid is leaking from the front seal where the transmission attaches to the torque converter, your mechanic will have to remove the transmission and add a replacement seal.

If you have a minor leak, you can use a commercial transmission sealer until you can get the car to a mechanic. Sealers penetrate worn and shrunken gaskets and seals, causing them to swell and form a seal against leaks. It is applied in the same manner as standard transmission fluid (i.e, poured in the transmission receptacle under the hood.) Only use sealer as a one-time solution.

If youve already taken steps to repair the leak, you need to replace the fluid you lost. Use a funnel, paper towel and the transmission fluid that is intended for your vehicles make and model. Start the car and let the engine warm up if your vehicle requires you to do this. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick near the rear of the engine. Its handle may also be marked "Trans Fluid" or similar. Clean the dipstick; any solid debris can damage the transmission. Place the dipstick and take a "Warm" reading. Use a long funnel to add fluid to the proper amount.

Even after repairing a transmission leak and replacing lost fluid, you need to have it checked regularly to ensure problems do not occur. Regularly check your transmission fluid levels and change it every 30,000 miles.

How to Replace a Hub Assembly on a Jeep Wrangler

Replacing the hub assembly on your Jeep Wrangler, while time consuming, can save you a substantial amount of money. The hub assembly on the front of your Jeep Wrangler supports the brakes, the front drive axle and the bearing assembly. It is not serviceable except as a complete unit but replacement hub assemblies are readily available from most auto parts stores and through the Jeep dealer network.

Instructions

Locate the spindle nut in the center of the wheel before removing the wheel from the Jeep. Remove the cotter pin from the from the end of the axle shaft with a pair of pliers and then loosen the spindle nut with a breaker bar and a spindle nut socket.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel with a lug wrench while there is still weight on it but do not remove them from the wheel studs. Raise the front of the Jeep with a jack until the tire is off the ground, then insert a set of jack stands under the axle tube to support the truck.

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs, then remove the tires and set them aside. Locate the two slide pins that support the brake caliper on the back of the caliper. Remove both pins with a socket and ratchet and then lift the caliper off the brake rotor and mounting bracket. Support the caliper from the upper suspension with a wire so it does not damage the rubber brake line.

Slide the brake rotor off the hub and set it aside. Locate the three 12-point bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that retain the hub to the knuckle. Remove them with a 12-point socket, ratchet and extension, then set the bolts aside.

Pull the hub assembly straight out of the steering knuckle, carefully sliding it off the axle shaft, and then discard the old hub assembly. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle with a wire brush to remove any rust or corrosion from the knuckle, then coat the inside with anti-seize compound.

Slide the new hub assembly over the axle shaft and into the steering knuckle. Push it in until it seats completely, then install the 12-point retaining bolts into the hub from the rear of the steering knuckle. Torque the retaining bolts to 75 lbs.-ft. with a torque wrench.

Install the brake rotor over the wheel studs and hub assembly, then position the break caliper over the rotor, aligning the hole for the slide pins with the holes in the mounting bracket. Install the slide pins and torque them to 36 lbs.-ft. with a torque wrench and socket.

Position the wheel over the wheel studs and thread the lug nuts on until they are snug. Thread the spindle nut onto the axle shaft end and tighten until it is snug.

Raise the Jeep off the jack stands with a jack, remove the stands, and set the Jeep on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench and then torque the spindle nut to 175 ft.-lbs. Install a new cotter pin in the axle shaft and bend the ends over with a pair of pliers to secure it.

How to Remove an IACV on a 240SX

An idle air control valve (IACV) on a Nissan 240SX allows air to bypass the throttle body in its fuel-injected engine to regulate idle speed. The engines computer controls the valve electronically using inputs from various other sensors in the system. Because of its position, the valve is susceptible to carbon buildup that needs periodic cleaning. To clean the carbon off the valve, it is necessary to remove the IAVC from the 240SX.

Instructions

Unplug the four connections from the idle air control assembly by squeezing the connector locks and separating the male and female ends of the plugs. Remove the hose between the idle air control assembly and the intake assembly by unclamping the hose ends and pulling them free.

Slip a 10 mm socket onto a 3-inch, 3/8-inch drive extension and attach the extension to a 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench.

Loosen the bolt attaching the bracket with the gray connector to the idle air control assembly with the ratchet wrench set up by turning it counterclockwise until it is free and removing it to move the bracket out of the way of one of the idle air control valve bolts.

Remove the 10 mm socket and install a 12 mm socket onto the extension. Remove the top two bolts attaching the IACV to the idle air control assembly by turning them counterclockwise with the ratchet wrench set up until they are free.

Remove the 12 mm socket, install a 3/8-inch drive universal joint on the extension and slide the 12 mm socket onto the universal joint. The universal joint is necessary for removal of the lower bolt.

Place the 12 mm socket on the lower bolt. Remove the bolt by turning it counterclockwise until it is free.

Grasp the IACV by hand and pull it out, completing the removal of the IACV from the 240SX.

How an Exhaust System Works

Your cars exhaust system is designed to carry away gases created when air and fuel are burned in the engine. The exhaust system is vital to your car and can cause problems if not functioning properly.

When fuel is burned in your engine, waste gases are created. These harmful gases exit the engine through an exhaust manifold, which ties into an exhaust pipe to carry them away. Modern cars with fuel injected engines have oxygen sensors to monitor how much fuel is added into the engine for it to function properly. As new fuel is injected and burned, the waste gas that is created is flushed from the car via the exhaust pipe.

The gas created in the engine can cause brain damage or even death if inhaled, so the exhaust system is designed to remove it without exposing you to the fumes. The exhaust pipe is designed so all toxins are flushed out and away from the car.

It is important to have your exhaust system monitored frequently. Corrosion is a common problem in exhaust systems and holes can allow dangerous fumes to get into your car, harming you and your family. Also, if exhaust gases back up into the combustion area, they can cause damage to your engine.

Manual Transmission Clutch Repair Information

The clutch is a key part of a manual transmission, which is often considered to be very reliable. However, because the clutch takes all the wear and tear, it can be the weakest link in a manual transmissions drivetrain. For this reason, information on the repair of this part can be beneficial for vehicle owners.

Certain factors can cause problems to occur with your clutch, such as heavy traffic which produces stop-and-go of driving. Constantly engaging and disengaging the clutch will cause it to wear down over time.

The noises from a clutch can reveal the problems it is having. A squealing noise from the clutch usually indicates worn out bearings, while other noises can be due to issues such as flywheel bolts being too loose.

When repairing a clutch, it is recommended to replace all of its major parts---such as the clutch disc and pressure plate assembly---instead of just the parts that have obvious damage. Because oil and dirt on a flywheel can result in later clutch issues, it should be replaced or resurfaced as well.

How to Install an Oxygen Sensor on a 2001 Galant

If the Check Engine light has come on in your 2001 Mitsubishi Galant, the oxygen sensor may be to blame. An oxygen sensor regulates the air-to-fuel mixture based on how much oxygen the sensor detects in the exhaust. If a sensor fails, your fuel consumption may increase noticeably, and youll want to replace it immediately. You can replace it yourself. The oxygen sensor is located on the exhaust manifold, accessed from beneath the truck. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts store.

Instructions

Raise the front of your 2001 Galant with a jack and support it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the car is secure on the jack stands.

Be sure the engine is cool. Slide under the Galant. Disconnect the electrical connection from the oxygen sensor. The sensor protrudes from the exhaust manifold with the wiring harness connected to the top of the sensor. Press the retaining clip in while pulling the connector free.

Remove the oxygen sensor from the manifold using an oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet. Discard the old sensor.

Insert the new oxygen sensor and thread it by hand until tight. Torque the sensor to 30 pound-feet with your torque wrench. Press the electrical connection into place until it clicks.

Raise the car slightly with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

Vehicle engines normally have around 150 lbs. of compression. Each cylinder should have close to the same compression levels. Proper compression will result in an automobile that starts and runs well. Low compression, however, indicates problems within your engine that need to be addressed.

Low compression in just one of the cylinders informs you that one of your exhaust valves has probably gone bad. If low compression occurs in two cylinders that are side by side, this usually indicates a failed head gasket. Your problem is with worn cylinders if low compression is occurring in all of them.

Engine compression problems can be tested for using either of two methods. A compression gauge will allow an individual to check engine compression by hand. An engine analyzer is a device that reads the differences in the cranking speed of your engine to determine the compression of its cylinders.

When buying a used vehicle, worries often arise due to the lack of information regarding the condition of its engine. When in doubt, a compression gauge can be purchased for under $40, as of 2011, and will indicate the general condition of the vehicles engine.

EGR Valve Types

Exhaust gas recirculation valves, better known as EGR valves, minimize your car engines creation of nitrous oxide, which can be harmful to the environment. EGR valves play a crucial part in cutting down on the creation of smog. EGR valves help to reduce the overall temperature of the engine by introducing a portion of exhaust gas back into the combustion chambers. The exhaust gas takes the place of otherwise combustible material (air and gasoline), thereby causing cooler combustion temperatures while still generating the same force to push the piston. EGR valves can reduce smog creation by as much as 60 percent. Several major types of EGR valves exist.

Single diaphragm EGR valves are the oldest and simplest type of EGR valve. They consist of a spring-loaded diaphragm connected to a pintle and seat by a slender steel shaft. Vacuum is ported into the diaphragm, which causes the pintle to pull off of its seat. The removal of the pintle from its seat results in the exhaust being allowed to flow into the valve chamber and the intake manifold.

Positive back pressure EGR valves have a much thicker pintle shaft than a single diaphragm valve. They also usually have a "P" stamped next to the part number and date code. The pintle shaft on these EGR valves is hollow, and it is the play between this hollow control valve and a control valve that regulates vacuum flow that causes the valve to work. Exhaust gases flow into the shaft itself and push up on the shaft, which it turn seals the built-in control valve. Vacuum pressure pulls on the diaphragm and causes it to open.

Negative back pressure EGR valves can be identified by the "N" stamped next to the date and the part number. It looks very similar to a positive back pressure EGR valve. This EGR valve is opened by a combination between applied engine vacuum and negative exhaust system impulses. When the pintle opens, back pressure is reduced. This reduction causes the control valve vacuum bleed to open and a valve to close. The negative exhaust pulses help to regulate the flow of gas.

An integrated electronic and mechanical valve can be identified by its single vacuum source inlet and three-wire electrical connector. Its basic operation is similar to a single diaphragm EGR valve except for a small pintle position sensor atop its diaphragm. This sensor communicates with the power control module, which in turn applies vacuum when necessary by signaling a pulse width modulated solenoid.

Why Are Dodge Rams With the HEMI Louder

HEMI engines are some of the most powerful automobiles engines in production. According to some Dodge owners, occasionally, HEMI engines make a "ticking" noise. For the most part, the noise level increases as more miles are driven

Some mechanics have reported the "ticking" noise is normal with the Dodge Ram, and several owners have stated they have had no significant problems with their HEMI engines. However, other owners have replaced the injectors, spark plugs and fuel emission system to try to lower the noise level.

The HEMI engine is meant for a heavy duty workload. Dodge Rams with HEMI engines are meant to be work trucks and not luxury vehicles. Engine horsepower and durability should be the major concerns for Ram owners rather than noise level.

Dodge Rams come with Check Engine lights that turn on if there is a major problem with the engine. If the Check Engine light is not on, but the noise level is still getting louder, then the noise is not interfering with the engines functionality. The noise might be more of an annoyance than a mechanical problem.

The primary drive on a Harley Davidson Sportster is concealed inside a metal case to prevent any part of your clothing or body from becoming trapped in the rapidly spinning belt while youre riding the bike. If you need to adjust the primary chain, you must remove the cover. There are some discreet little bolts that hold the whole assembly together, which can be difficult to find if you dont know where to look.

Instructions

Run the engine for three to five minutes until the temperature starts to rise. This will thin the oil in the primary, allowing it to drain more readily. Place the bike on its side stand and put the container under the primary. Loosen and remove the drain plug from the underside of the primary cover, and drain the oil into the container.

Use an Allen wrench to loosen the bolts around the circular Derby cover, which is mounted on the primary cover. The clutchs spring mechanism has to be removed before the rest of primary cover can come off. The mechanism is behind the Derby cover. Remove the uppermost locking nut, which will release the spring underneath. Slide the spring out, which will reveal another locking nut beneath it. Loosen and remove this nut, too. Store both nuts and the spring in a safe place.

Work around the outer edge of the primary cover, loosening and removing all of the Allen bolts on the outer perimeter of the cover. Once youve removed the last one, the primary cover should lift off.

How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor in a Mazda Miata

The Mazda Miata contains two oxygen sensors. The sensors are located on each end of the catalytic converter; they help control the fuel consumption based on the amount of oxygen in the cars exhaust system. If the "check engine" light has come on, or if your cars gas mileage has decreased, change the sensors to ensure that your vehicles emissions ratings and fuel budget stay low.

Instructions

Start the Miatas engine and let it warm up. Turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition. Raise the Miata with a jack. Rest the car on a set of jack stands. Locate the oxygen sensors on either side of the catalytic converter.

Press in the locking tab to release the wiring harness connection. Pull the connectors apart. Remove the sensor with a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

Thread the new sensor in its place, by hand, until it is secure. Tighten it with a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket. Press the wiring harness connection into place.

Raise the car with the jack to remove the jack stands from beneath the car. Lower the Miata to the ground.

How to Replace the Lower Beam on a 2000 Honda Civic

The lower beam on the 2000 Honda Civic is integrated to the higher beam headlight unit. The single bulb houses dual filaments that account for each lower and higher beams. Unfortunately, when one filament burns out, replacing the headlight is required. The good news is, replacing the lower beam incorporates the same procedure as the high beam since it is the same bulb. The headlight beams on most all modern cars are halogen bulbs that can be compromised if touched with human skin. Alkaline oils in skin will create a weak spot on the bulb that will expedite its failure.

Instructions

Ensure the headlight switch inside the 2000 Honda Civic is in the off position and the engine is off. Open the hood.

Pull the power steering reservoir off of its retaining bracket (if replacing the drivers side headlight beams only--passenger side beams have open access). Support the reservoir in the engine compartment so it doesnt lay on its side or the reservoir will leak power steering fluid from its cover/cap.

Squeeze the sides of the wire harness connector to unlock the tab and pull the connector from the blades of the headlight beam.

Pull the rubber dust boot off the headlight beam. There are two pull tabs on the dust boot--one on top and one on the bottom.

Unclip the headlight beam retaining wire from its hold-down slot by pushing in on it and lifting the wire upward slightly away from the slot. Pivot the wire on its screw hinge and remove the headlight beam unit from the headlight assembly.

Put on gloves before handling the replacement 9003 automotive headlight beam to avoid touching the bulb with bare skin.

Align the three tabs on the base of the headlight beam with the three notches in the headlight assembly unit.

Hold the headlight beam in place and swing the retaining wire on its hinge against the back of the headlight. Press in on the wire and slightly down to clip it on the hold-down slot.

Press the dust boot back in position and then reattach the wire harness connector to the blades of the headlight beam. Replace the power steering steering reservoir on its bracket (if applicable).

Test the headlight beam by turning on the headlight switch before closing the hood.

How to Read Codes for a 1997 Ford F 150

You can read the codes for your 97 Ford F-150 right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The 1997 F-150 comes equipped with an On-Board Diagnostic II (OBD II) computer system that receives and stores trouble codes. These codes can be read with a hand-held computerized device called an OBD II code retriever. The codes read can be looked up to help you diagnose what is wrong with your vehicle.

Instructions

Plug the OBDII code retriever into the socket on the underside of the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel.

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, but dont crank the engine. This will power on most code retrievers. Enter in your vehicles model, make and engine size when instructed to by the code retriever.

Select the command "Read Codes" or something similar. Wait while the OBDII code retriever interfaces with the computer and retrieves the codes. Write down the codes on a piece of paper. Look up the codes in the manual to get the exact diagnosis.

Unplug the code retriever. Take the codes to your mechanic or repair and service the vehicle yourself.

F250 2WD Ford Front End Alignment The Specifications

The 2010 Ford F-250 two-wheel drive is available in several trims with different cab sizes and bed lengths. All trims were referred to as "Super Duty" trucks, as Ford phased out the standard F-250 in 1999. All trims come with a 5.4-liter, 300-horsepower V-8 engine. With the exception of the caster angle on those trims with HD Suspension, the alignment specs are the same for all trims. Alignment specs for a given model of vehicle tend to vary from year to year. It is extremely important to check the trucks model year and suspension type before attempting to make any adjustments to the alignment. The rear alignment is not adjustable on any trim of the 2010 Ford F250 two-wheel drive.

The caster angle is the forward or rearward slope of the vehicles steering axis, with the steering axis being an imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints of a wheels knuckles. The measure of the angle is based on a vertical line from the ground straight through the center of the wheel. If the top of caster slope passes on the rear of the vertical line, toward the rear of the vehicle, then the wheel has a positive caster. If the top of the caster slope passes on the front of the vertical line, toward the front bumper of the vehicle, then the wheel has a negative caster. The ideal caster angle for the 2010 Ford F-250 two-wheel drive is +3.6 degrees for trims with HD Suspension and +4.0 degrees for all other trims. The caster can range by 1.2 degrees in either direction on all trims, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees.

The camber is the inward or outward tilt of a wheel when viewed from the front of a vehicle. If the top of a wheel tilts out, away from the center of the vehicle, then the wheel has a positive camber. If the top of the wheel tilts in, toward the center of the vehicle, then the wheel has a positive camber. The ideal camber angle for the 2010 Ford F-250 two-wheel drive is +0.62 degrees but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees.

The toe is the difference in the space between the fronts of the two front wheels and the rears of the two front wheels. If the fronts of the wheels are closer to each other than the rears are, then the wheels have toe-in. If the fronts of the wheels are farther apart than the rears are, then the wheels have toe-out. The toe-in for the 2010 Ford F-250 two-wheel drive should be set at +0.1 degrees but it can range by 0.25 degrees in either direction.

How to Change the Battery in a 2000 Pontiac Montana

The 2000 Pontiac Montana features a 3.4-liter six-cylinder engine. The battery is located in the engine compartment behind the passenger side headlight assembly. It fits snugly inside the engine compartment and requires the removal of a cross brace to gain access to the side-post battery. The battery also is very heavy and needs to be maneuvered out of the engine compartment, which can be a challenging task for some people.

Instructions

Open the hood of the 2000 Pontiac Montana after removing the keys from the ignition (if applicable).

Remove the two lower retaining bolts of the passenger-side cross brace on the front radiator frame rail, using the ratchet and a socket. Remove the upper retaining bolt of the cross brace near the passenger-side firewall with a wrench. Remove the cross brace.

Remove the black negative terminal bolt from the side post battery using a hand wrench. Remove the red cap (if applicable) from the positive battery terminal and remove the terminal bolt with the wrench.

Remove the battery hold-down wedge bolt with the ratchet, extension and socket. Remove the bolt and hold down wedge.

Tilt the battery slightly toward the center of the engine and place one hand underneath the left side of the battery and the other hand on the right top. Lift the battery out of the engine compartment.

Install the replacement battery into the engine compartment by reversing Step 5.

Replace the hold-down wedge and retaining bolt and tighten the bolt.

Connect the positive terminal bolt to the battery and hand-thread it into the side post. Tighten the bolt snugly with the wrench.

Connect the negative terminal bolt in the same way as the positive terminal bolt in Step 8.

Start the engine to test the operation of the battery before replacing the cross brace and retaining bolts.

Occasionally, Ford car fuel systems get air in the fuel line or fuel injection system and need bleeding. Bleeding the fuel line releases this air and allows the fuel system to work more efficiently. Symptoms of air in the fuel line include missing, knocking and stalling. In some cases the car may not start at all. Tools needed to bleed the fuel line allow you to disconnect the line and get rid of any air that may be there.

The KD Tools 3321 Ford Fuel Line Quick Disconnect is available at auto supply stores for around $12 as of 2010. This tool releases the fuel line locking mechanism on new Ford models and fits 5/16- inch and 3/8-inch fuel lines. The quick disconnect tool allows the fuel filter to be released from the fuel line. Once released, the fuel filter can be removed from the fuel line to expose the line for bleeding.

OTC Fuel Injection Diagnostic Kits allow users to quickly diagnose pressure problems in a fuel line. These kits fit Ford engines that have a multi-port fuel injection system. The kit includes a bleed valve that allows you to bleed air from the fuel line after testing. The gauge assembly lets you check both fuel pressure and fuel volume in the fuel line.

The OTC Gauge and Hose Assembly tests fuel injection systems and also features a 6-foot bleed hose. The bleed valve on the hose assembly eliminates air from the fuel injection system and also reduces pressure when disconnecting the hoses. The bleed valve can also be used to check for fuel pump volume.

How to Replace a 1993 Corolla Timing Belt

The Corolla is a line of compact cars that Toyota has manufactured since 1966, and the seventh generation of this series includes the 1991 through 1998 models. The timing belt in this vehicle allows the crankshaft to drive the camshaft, and requires periodic replacement. A 1993 Toyota Corolla was available with a 1.6-liter engine and a 1.8-liter engine. The procedure for replacing the timing belt differs slightly, depending on the engine in your vehicle.

Instructions

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack, and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the reservoir tank for the windshield washer fluid. Remove the right front splash shield, and remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Lower the vehicle.

Loosen the mounting bolts for the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump when a socket wrench, if your vehicle is so equipped. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the alternator, and detach the drive belts.

Detach the wiring harness on the apron of the right front fender. Place a wooden block on the floor jack to serve as a cushion, and support the engine with the floor jack. Disconnect the through-bolt from the right engine mount with a socket wrench.

Raise the engine slightly with the floor jack, so you can access the pulley for the water pump. Disconnect the pulley with a socket wrench, and lower the engine. Use masking tape to label the spark plug wires. Remove the spark plugs and valve cover.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench to align the timing marks. Align the crankshaft marks at zero; look through the oil filler hole on the pulley and make sure you can see the hole in the end of the camshaft. Remove the timing belt covers and front engine cover with a socket wrench.

Disconnect the guide for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and loosen the mounting bolt for the idler pulley. Pull the idler pulley as far to the left as possible, and tighten the mounting bolt to hold the idler pulley in place temporarily. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

Hold the idler pulley in your hands, and ensure that it turns freely. Replace the idler pulley if it makes any noise when you spin it.

Measure the free length of the tension spring. This length should be 1.453 inches for the 1.6-liter engine and 1.252 inches for the 1.8-liter engine. Measure the springs from the inside faces of the hooks. Replace the tension spring if it has stretched.

Grip the hexagonal head of the camshaft with a wrench, and remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Turn the camshaft pulley clockwise with a hex wrench to align the knock pin on the camshaft with the corresponding groove on the camshaft pulley. Perform this step only if your vehicle has a 1.6-liter engine.

Hold the crankshaft pulley so the flange faces towards the crankshaft. Align the key on the crankshaft with the groove on the crankshaft pulley, and slide the pulley onto the crankshaft. Fasten the mounting bolt for the pulley, and hold the camshaft in place with a hex wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley to 43 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Install the idler pulley and its tension spring. Fasten the mounting bolt for the pulley by hand, and push the pulley to the left as far as possible. Tighten the bolt temporarily with a socket wrench. Turn the camshaft clockwise to align the hole on the camshaft pulley with the mark on the bearing cap. Turn the crankshaft clockwise so that the groove on the crankshaft pulley points straight up.

Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft pulley, and attach the guide for the timing belt so the cup of the belt faces outward. Connect the number 1 timing cover, and tighten its mounting bolts to 65 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Align the groove on the crankshaft pulley with the zero mark on the number 1 timing belt cover.

Turn the crankshaft pulley two full turns clockwise, and align its timing marks again. Tighten the mounting bolt for the idler pulley to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Adjust the tension on the timing belt by turning the tensioner with a socket wrench. The deflection of the timing belt should be between 0.20 and 0.24 inches when you place 4.4 pounds of pressure in the middle of the longest belt span.

Install the number 2 and number 3 timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Torque the mounting bolts for the timing belt covers to 65 inch pounds with a torque wrench. Torque the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley to 87 foot-pounds.

Complete the timing belt installation by performing steps one through four in reverse order.

How to Compare a Single and Dual Exhaust System

Most stock exhaust systems are single exhaust, meaning that they have one head pipe expelling exhaust from the engine. A dual exhaust system has two sets of head pipes, which allows more exhaust to escape and provides marginally better engine performance, as well as giving the car a more aggressive sound. The difference between them can be surprisingly subtle, however, and if youre in the market for an exhaust system, you should compare the benefits and drawbacks carefully.

Instructions

Know the difference between a true dual exhaust system and an exiting dual exhaust system. A true dual exhaust system has two complete sets of the exhaust array-two mufflers, two catalytic converters and two tail pipes-while an exiting dual exhaust system has a single modified muffler with two pipes extending from it. The former provides a genuine boost in horsepower and efficiency, while the latter is essentially a single exhaust system tricked out for aesthetic or stylistic reasons and has no other practical effect.

Examine the size of the vehicles engine. You will usually find a dual exhaust system in a V-6 or V-8 engine because they have two exhaust manifolds. Smaller engines tend to have a single exhaust system or else a dual existing system rather than a true dual exhaust system.

Compare the difference in horsepower. Dual exhaust systems tend to be better at this than single exhaust systems because there is more exhaust leaving the engine through a second system. This produces more horsepower and improves engine performance, though the emissions they create may not be legal in many areas.

Examine the potential for torque, which is usually manifested in the size of the exhaust systems pipes. The narrower the pipe, the more quickly exhaust moves through the system and the more torque the system produces. A dual system tends to use smaller pipes than a single system, which thus produces more torque.

Compare the noise levels which the exhaust system produces. Ideally, the difference is negligible, especially if the mufflers are doing their job properly, but a dual exhaust system is naturally inclined to produce more noise than a single exhaust system. The particular pitch and timber of the sound can vary as well, which is part of the appeal of installing a dual exhaust system in the first place.

There are several reasons that you might need to know how to find a Chevrolet motor size. Two typical reasons are for ordering replacement parts or while finding replacement parts for your engine on another same-sized engine on a wrecked vehicle in a junkyard. In general, motor sizes are referenced by their cylinders, like 4 cylinder (V4), 6 cylinder (V6), or 8 cylinder (V8). There is another measurement referring to engine size that is important when replacing engines, the cubic inches (ci) displaced by the cylinders. A 3.6 Chevy engine displaces 3.6 liters or approximately 219ci.

Instructions

Open your glove box and remove the owners manual. In the index or glossary, look up engine and these pages will tell you all the specs (specifications) of your Chevrolet motor size.

Pull the lever under your dashboard to pop the hood. Run your hand under the hood to find the latch that is present on some models of Chevy hoods that allow you to unlock and lift the hood.

Look at the engine case. Some motors have the engine size, cylinders, and ci (cubic inches) or liters (1 liter is 1,000 cubic centimeters). For example, you might see V8 for an 8 cylinder or 3.6L for a 3.6-liter engine.

Remove the valve cover and write down the code on the underside for the head numbers. Replace the valve cover securely. Use the code to find the matching motor size or compare the code to an engine chart like the Chevy big block engine charts found in the "references" below.

How to Disable the Seatbelt Chime in a 2005 Chevy

Some 2005 Chevrolets come with a seat-belt chime to remind you to fasten your seat belt whenever you start the vehicle. Many people find it very annoying. But there is a way to disable it, and you can change it back if you change your mind. If you are someone who always forgets to put on your seat belt, keep in mind that in many states it is illegal to drive without your seat belt fastened. In that case, it may not be such a bad idea to retain the seat-belt chime as a quick reminder.

Instructions

Find a junkyard and ask the dealer if he or she has a 2005 Chevy of the same model as yours. If so, go to the junkyard with a pair of scissors and cut the seat belt clip off of the strap. You may have to remove the whole seat-belt assembly first or the junkyard dealer may have one already. Alternatively, you can call your local auto parts store and see if they sell a seat belt clip that will fit your buckle. The sales person can determine which size to sell you based on your vehicle identification number.

Put the seat-belt clip into the seat-belt buckle on your Chevy. This will turn off the sea-tbelt reminder. When you are ready to fasten your seat belt, remove the junkyard seat-belt clip and put on your seat belt.

Pull out the seat belt as far as it will go and wrap it around the back side of your drivers seat. Clip the seat-belt clip into the seat-belt buckle. This will stop the chiming.

How to Kill Bugs in an Old Car That Has Been Parked for Awhile

The challenge of getting rid of bugs in a car is effectively killing the insects while preserving the interior. Some insecticides can damage upholstery and dashboards. In addition, you dont want to leave an unpleasant smell in the car after the bugs are gone. There are some effective methods for exterminating and removing bugs from a car, even if it has been parked for awhile.

Instructions

Clean your car interior. Remove all food scraps, trash and other debris. Vacuum well. Wipe down all surfaces with an upholstery cleaner. This will remove insect eggs that could hatch later, and it will disturb any nesting insects.

Heat up your car. Extreme heat kills most insects. If you can find a hot locale, park the car there and roll up the windows. A temperature above 140 degrees will kill most of the bugs. Vacuum afterwards to remove dead insects.

Freeze your car. If you live in a cold climate, park the car in the coldest spot you can find. A temperature of about 20 degrees below zero will kill most of the insects. Leave the windows down if there is no precipitation, so that the car will get as cold as possible.

Fumigate with carbon dioxide. This is the gas that adds fizz to sodas. Ask a florist where he gets his carbon dioxide for fumigation, because florists use this gas on plants they are about to ship or deliver. It will not leave a smell in your car, and if you air out the vehicle before driving, there will be no dangerous fumes for you to breathe.

Spray lavender oil. This kills bedbugs. You will have a lavender smell in your car for awhile, but it is not harmful to breathe. Spray the seats, seat covers and arm rests with lavender oil. Vacuum after a few hours to remove any dead bed bugs.

How to Reset a Dodge Engine Light

The check engine light illuminates on the control panel on the dashboard of your Dodge when the on-board diagnostic computer reads a trouble code from the engine. You should take your Dodge to a qualified mechanic to have the problem looked at and, if necessary, repaired before you reset the light. You can reset the light in a few minutes manually from home using a simple tool purchased from your local auto parts store. Or most auto parts stores will reset it for you for free.

Instructions

Locate and open the fuse panel cover on your Dodge. This is inside the vehicle on the bottom of the dashboard on the drivers side. Pull down on the cover from the top of the panel with your fingers.

Locate an open port within the fuse panel that is the same size and shape as the connector end on your OBD scan tool. Plug the connector into the port.

Put the key in the ignition and turn it on to the "II" position, which is right before the engine starts. Wait for the light that is flashing on the OBD scan tool to turn off. Look on the dashboard above the steering column to see that the check engine light has turned off as well.

Few things are more annoying than discovering your car locks are frozen. Car locks become frozen and hard to unlock when the temperature outdoors hits freezing. Preventing your car locks from becoming frozen, by properly lubricating the car locks and protecting them from the harsh outdoor elements, is a must if you want to keep your vehicle in tip-top working condition.

Instructions

Lubricate key holes with WD-40 Smart Straw. Flip the straw on the can up and spray the WD-40 into each car lock. Use a cloth to catch and clean any of the solution that spills out of the lock. According to the Smith Consulting Group, lubricating all doors and trunk locks with lock lubricant will help prevent them from freezing. You can purchase WD-40 Smart Straw at an automotive or hardware store.

Park your car in a garage. Garages offer protection from harsh winter elements. If you dont have access to an attached garage, you can buy a portable garage or park your car in a public parking garage. You can buy a portable garage at hardware stores.

Place a tarp over your car. Tarps provide protection against outdoor elements. According to WyoTech, if you have no other choice than to park your car outside in the elements, extend the life of the vehicle and protect the car locks from freezing by putting a tarp over it.

Use a battery-operated lock de-icer. Trying a de-icer in the locks is one way to unfreeze your frozen car locks, according to DeAnza College. Place the de-icer probe into each frozen door lock and press the "On" button. The probe will begin to heat and unfreeze the lock. You can purchase a battery operated lock de-icer at automotive and hardware stores.

Fuel Injector Testing Cleaning

To get the best performance from a vehicles engine, its a must for fuel injectors to be clean. Dirty injectors can not effectively provide an engine with fuel the way clean injectors can. Because of this, information on testing and cleaning fuel injectors can be valuable to vehicle owners.

A restriction of as little as 9 percent in one fuel injector is enough to cause an engine to misfire. However, the fuel deposits that clog injectors tend to happen more in older vehicles that have pintle-style injectors. Many newer model vehicles have fuel injectors that are designed to prevent such easy clogging.

Fuel injectors can be checked through a process called flow-testing. The flow rate of an injector is tested, and reveals if the injector fails to meet factory standards. Injectors are removed from the vehicle when performing a flow test.

Fuel injector cleaning can be accomplished by adding injector cleaner into the gas tank of your vehicle. You may also have a professional shop remove your injectors for cleaning. Either way, it is recommended to have fuel injectors cleaned about every 27,000 miles.

How to Install a Mirror on a 2007 Dodge Caravan

Car mirrors can suffer a lot of damage throughout the life of an automobile. When a mirror is beyond repair, the entire mirror must be replaced. Knowing how to install a mirror on a 2007 Dodge Caravan can spare Caravan owners time and expense.

Instructions

Pry off the panel where the mirror attaches to the vehicle with a small standard screwdriver. This will expose the screws attaching the mirror to the vehicle.

Remove the two exposed screws attaching the mirror to the vehicle with a T27 Torx driver.

Open the door next to the mirror you are replacing. This will expose the third and final screw attaching the mirror to the vehicle.

Unscrew the final screw with a T27 Torx driver. Some mirrors designed for a 2007 Dodge Caravan have an internal heating element with a cable attaching it to the vehicles electrical system. With this type of mirror, press the release tab on the cable connector and pull the cables apart before removing the mirror.

Lift the mirror to be replaced away from the vehicle.

Hold the replacement mirror in place against the vehicle so the screw holes in the mirror base and vehicle align. If the vehicles mirror has an internal heating element, first attach the replacement mirrors cable to the vehicles mirror cable before holding the replacement mirror in place.

Screw the screws into the three holes of the mirror base with a T27 Torx driver.

Replace the panel where the mirror attaches to the vehicle by sliding it into place and pressing firmly.

Two important parts control the engine of your car or truck. One is the gear drive, which controls the gear that the vehicle is in and allows you to easily change it. The other is a timing chain. The timing chain is what ensures that the parts of the engine run in harmony.

A gear drive is a circular piece of steel that has notches or ridges carved out of it. Most vehicles have several of them that fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. They attach to the engine by a belt, which controls the gear based on which one you select while driving. Gear drives are present on all transmission types, whether they are automatic or manual.

When the timing chain on your engine breaks, your engine will not start. On older vehicles, the chain is near the valves, but on newer models, it is farther away. A timing chain is made of steel and connects to the valves and pistons, keeping the engine running properly, or "in time."

The very first timing belt was designed for use in a sewing machine. It was invented in 1946 by Richard Case.

How to Troubleshoot High PSI in the Oil Tank on a Harley

There are four likely causes that an oil gauge on a Harley might indicate high oil pressure. Two of the causes are literally connected to the oil tank. In order of probability from most to least, your oil pressure gauge is faulty or the electrical connection is loose; your crankcase vent line is clogged; either your oil return or your oil feeder line is kinked or blocked; or finally, your oil tank is overfilled. Work the problem in a few steps.

Instructions

Drain the oil from your oil tank into a drain pan by loosening the hose clamp on you drain line with a screwdriver and removing the oil drain plug with a pair of pliers. Replace the plug and drain line after the oil drains from the oil tank.

Remove the oil filter from the front of your bike with an oil filter wrench. Drain the oil from the filter into the drain pan.

Discard the old oil filter and install a new filter hand tight onto the oil filter stud.

Follow the wires from your oil pressure gauge top the crankcase and check for loose connections or an obviously defective wire.

Inspect the oil feeder and oil return line from the crankcase to the oil tank. Physically remove the lines by unfastening any hose clamps with a screwdriver and any permanent fittings with an open end wrench.

Stick a wire through the length of the hoses to ensure the hoses are not clogged. Replace the two oil lines.

Follow the oil vent line from the top of the oil tank next to the return line to the crankcase. Remove the line from the crankcase with an open end wrench. Pull the line out of the oil tank with your hands.

Sick a wire through the vent line to ensure it is not clogged. Replace the vent line with an open end wrench.

Add the appropriate amount of oil, either 3 or 4 quarts, to the oil tank as specified in the owners manual for your Harley. Turn over the motorcycle for about 15 seconds.

Remove the fill plug and read the dipstick to ensure the oil level reads full. Start the motorcycle and check the oil gauge. If the gauge still indicates that your oil pressure is too high the gauge is probably defective.

How to Use a Power Steering Pulley Puller

Power steering pulleys are usually fitted on the pump shaft by pressing and the assembly is held together with friction. Hence, if you wish to remove the power steering pulley, it cannot be done by hand. The specific tool to be used is a puller that can remove the pulley from the pump shaft. This puller is different from the usual gear pullers with jaws. Various brands of the puller are available; there may be slight differences in the parts, but they function in a similar manner. A few brands also come with tools that can be used to fit back the power steering pulley.

Instructions

Study the parts. A power steering pulley puller consists of two half-parts that make up a split collar, a metal sleeve to retain the collar and a threaded bolt which is the puller. If your kit consists of tools to re-install the pulley, therell be a bolt nut assembly, too.

Fit on the puller by inserting the half-part that projects more inward below the pulley lip. Close the two parts so the pump shaft is held tight. Fit the metal sleeve over the ring formed by closing the two parts. Push the rounded end of the threaded bolt inside the pump shaft, until it touches the pulley shaft, and tighten it.

Position a wrench at the bottom of the threaded puller assembly. On the top side, near the threaded shaft, use a ratchet. Tighten the nut and bolt parts by screwing the puller assembly into the bottom portion; this will cause the pulley to move off the pump shaft.

Fit back the pulley by positioning it to sit squarely on the pump shaft. Use the bolt nut assembly provided with the puller kit. Insert the bolt inside the pump shafts internal threading and screw it on until the bolt touches the lower surface. Push the pulley on by rotating the nut assembly along the bolt. When the pulley has reached down completely, the nut assembly stops moving; remove the assembly and check that the pulley is flush with the level of the pump shaft.

Auto Extended Warranty Policies

An extended auto warranty is a service contract that allows a vehicle owner to be covered in case vehicle parts need to be repaired or replaced. Extended auto warranties are different from most basic auto warranties that come with a new vehicle -- extended warranties typically must be purchased separately, on top of the vehicle purchase price.

A buyer who expects to own a vehicle for a long time may benefit the most from an extended auto warranty. Such warranties offer savings in the long term, especially if the vehicle needs several major repairs or many components must be replaced.

Extended auto warranties vary in the extent of the coverage provided. Some extended warranties only cover parts that break, not parts that need repair because of general wear and tear. Some extended warranties do not cover problems with overheating -- if a vehicle overheats due to a faulty radiator, the extended warranty would not cover replacing the radiator.

Extended auto warranties vary in the way payments are made to the dealership that performs the repairs. Some warranties pay the dealership directly, while others require the vehicle owner to pay the cost of the repairs up front, then wait for a reimbursement from the warranty company.

How to Repair a Radio in a 2000 VW Jetta

When Volkswagen designed the radio enclosure system for the 2000 Jetta, they created a unique retaining system that allowed the radio to be removed without having to dismantle the entire dashboard. This system is comprised of locking tabs on the back of the radio and two slots on the front of the radio. When special tools are inserted into each slot on the front of the radio, the locking tabs disengage, allowing the radio to move out of the dashboard.

Instructions

Obtain the anti-theft lock code for the radio, before turning proceeding with the radio removal. If you cant find your lock code, youll need to contact your local Volkswagen service department and they can provide you with a code.

Turn off the ignition and take out the key. Insert each special tool into the radio opening slots and press them down at the same time until they disengage the radio retaining tabs.

Pull on the loopholes built into the special tools to remove the radio from the dashboard. Make sure to pull the radio straight out of the opening; dont twist it or tilt the tools.

Disconnect the radios electrical connectors. Remove the special tools from the radio by releasing the locking tabs on each side of the radio.

Reconnect the radios electrical connectors and set the radio into position in the radio dashboard slot.

Press the radio down into the dashboard until its fully-seated and you hear the locking tabs engage.

Power the radio on and uses the number buttons on the front of the radio to input your security code.

Press and hold the right side of the Seek button for two seconds to confirm the code.

Power on the radio and test it to make sure it works properly.

Pages

Monday, September 30, 2013

Instructions

Permanent Fix

Temporary Fix

Characteristics

Uses

Expert Insight

Types

Function

Warning

Alternator Belt

Key-off Drain

Bad Battery

Instructions

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Instructions

Instructions

12.9 Bolts

MPa

Shear Strength

12.9 Shear Strength

Ram 1500 4x2

Ram 2500 4x4

Dakot 4x4

Saturday, September 28, 2013

Noise When Applying Brakes

Coolant Warning Light

Speedometer Not Working

Current Draw

Testing

Tips

Instructions

Instructions

Instructions

Remove the Old Tank

Install the New Tank

Friday, September 27, 2013

Instructions

Instructions

Instructions

Instructions

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Instructions

Instructions

Diagnose the Leak

Locate the Leak

DIY Transmission Repair

Add Transmission Fluid

Preventive Maintenance

Instructions

Instructions

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Function

Function

Warning

Causes

Noises

Repair

Instructions

Problems

Check

Tips

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Single Diaphragm EGR Valves

Positive Back Pressure EGR Valves

Negative Back Pressure EGR Valves

Integrated Electronic and Mechanical EGR Valves

Possible Causes

Considerations

Theories/Speculation

Instructions

Instructions

Instructions

Monday, September 23, 2013

Instructions

Caster

Camber

Toe-in

Instructions