Repair And Fix it

If you have a Chevrolet car or truck made between 1967 and 1997, theres a good chance it has a 350-cubic-inch engine. The Chevrolet 350 small-block engine was offered in many Chevrolet cars and trucks and in other General Motors vehicles as well. The 350 became Chevrolets primary work-horse small-block engine after the demise of the 327 and 283 engines. The 350 is identified using both visual clues and casting numbers.

Instructions

1

Count the number of spark plugs. The 350 is an eight-cylinder engine

2

Inspect the engine compartment to locate identification tags. GM usually places various tags, decals and other identification devices throughout the engine compartment. These usually provide any necessary information if it is not worn off.

3

Locate the casting identification number on the engine block. This number is stamped on a pad just forward of the right-side (passengers side) cylinder head and may be hidden by the alternator. Remove the alternator if necessary. The ID number usually consists of eight digits in a combination of numbers and letters.

4

Decode the ID number according to Chevrolets code system. For example, the number V0908CNJ breaks down as follows: V is the engine plant, followed by the month and day of manufacture and the engine suffix code. ID number V0908CNJ was manufactured at the Flint engine plant on October 8 and was originally installed in a 1970 Caprice with 250 horsepower. To decode the engine suffix, cross-referencing is necessary.

Installation problems with headlights can be a major safety issue because nighttime driving is nearly impossible when headlights are not working properly. Although some headlights can function after well over 1,500 hours of use, even a few minutes of driving without them can be a dangerous venture.

Installation Problems

When installing new headlights, sometimes one or more bulbs will fail to light up. A corroded socket is sometimes to blame for this kind of issue. By applying a cleaner made specifically for electronics, the connection can sometimes be revived. If not, you will likely need a new socket altogether.

Fuse Problems

Voltage issues will also prevent headlights from coming on. Fuses should be checked, and any blown fuse should be replaced. If the new fuse blows as well after replacement, the problem is likely due to a short somewhere in the wiring of the headlights circuit.

Charging Problems

If your headlights lose brightness each time you rev your motor, a problem is likely present somewhere within your vehicles charging system. A faulty alternator is an example of this. Checking your car batterys voltage can help as any voltage reading under 13 volts suggests that the charging system is indeed the problem.

Your 2001 Chevrolet Malibu contains three fuse boxes that, like the fuses in your home, protect your cars wiring system. If an electrical device in your car, such as the radio or the interior lights, has a problem and draws too much power, the fuse controlling it will blow, stopping electricity from flowing and protecting the wiring inside your car. If that happens, you will need to replace the blown fuse to restore power to the device.

Instructions

1

Turn off your cars engine.

2

Use your owners manual to identify where the affected fuse is. Open the fuse panel by grasping the handle and pulling out.

3

Identify the blown fuse. To remove a fuse, grasp it between your fingers and give it a firm pull. If you need to remove a fuse from the engine compartment, there is a special tool in that fuse box. The element of the damaged fuse will look burned or separated.

4

Replace the damaged fuse with a new one.

5

Replace the door of the fuse compartment. Do this by inserting the doors hooks into the slots and then pushing the rest of the door into place.

Pneumatic tools offer reliability and strength. An air gun uses very few moving parts. Air pressure moves pistons that generate the power. The only maintenance needed on an air gun, or pneumatic tool, is daily oiling if the tool is not self-oiling. The main goal of an air gun is to deliver a powerful tool capable of intense amounts of torque or pressure. The most common high-impact air tools are air hammers, air drills and impact wrenches.

Air Hammers

An air hammer is not an elegant tool. It is used to repeatedly deliver blows to an object. The hammer comes with a variety of tips to shape or smooth metals. An internal piston is actuated by the air pressure from an air compressor. The piston repeatedly shoots forward and back. The different tips determine what the movement accomplishes. A flat-head hammer tip allows a worker to create a curve in a piece of sheet metal. The flat-head condenses and spreads out the metal as the piston hammers the ball into the surface of the metal. Chisel tips can be used to chip away at brick or stone, or to gouge metal.

Air Drills

Air drills use air pressure to generate high levels of rotation comparable to battery-operated drills. The tool is weaker than the electrical variation but is less likely to break down due to the limited number of moving parts. The tool delivers steady rotation regardless of the material. Electric drill motors can snag up in tough materials. Air drills are available in a standard gun style, similar to electric, and hand-held variations similar to electric screwdrivers. The tool has a quick-release connection on some models, or the standard chuck-key connection that requires a specific tool to unlock the bit.

Impact Wrenches

Impact wrenches are the most common type of high-impact air guns. An impact wrench combines the elements of an air hammer with an air drill. Rather than just spinning a gear, the tool delivers air pressure to an internal hammer that builds up briefly before spinning the gear. The rapid discharge of stored pressure or energy translates to high-torque rotation. Impact wrenches work best on stubborn or damaged bolts. The manual equivalent to this tool would be to place a wrench on a bolt and hammer at it with a sledge hammer. The tool, like all air guns, is reliable with minimal moving parts. The only maintenance necessary is to oil the tool daily. The oil prevents the internal pistons and gears from becoming sticky or dry.

The Chevrolet C/K series is a family of full-size pickup trucks that General Motors has manufactured since 1960. The Silverado was the top trim level for the 1998 C/K trucks, and General Motors upgraded it to a separate model beginning with the 1999 model-year. The 1998 Silverado comes standard with an anti-lock braking system (ABS), which allows the vehicle to stop more effectively under emergency conditions. The Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) controls the amount of braking force to apply to each wheel.

Instructions

1

Locate the EHCU in the engine compartment on the left side of the engine. It is the black box with four brake lines running to it.

2

Detach the connectors for the electrical wiring from the EHCU. Disconnect the fittings for the brake lines with a socket wrench and detach the brake lines from the EHCU.

3

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the EHCU bracket with a socket wrench and remove the bracket from the vehicle. Remove the mounting bolts from the EHCU and detach the EHCU from its bracket.

4

Install the new EHCU onto its bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 5 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the EHCU bracket to the vehicle and tighten the mounting bolts for the bracket to 33 foot-pounds.

5

Connect the brake lines to their original positions on the EHCU and tighten the fittings to 16 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the EHCU, ensuring the connections are secure.

6

Connect a TECH-1 scanning tool to the vehicles data link connector. Bleed the EHCU valve with three J-39177 tools and correct any ABS errors reported by the scanning tool. A professional mechanic would normally perform this step.

Correct torque value for the bolts on a vehicle is important for auto safety. A torque value that should be paid particular attention to is that of the intake manifold bolts. The intake manifold bolts must have the correct torque value, as well as be torqued in the proper sequence.

Reasoning

The intake manifold is of manufactured of cast iron, and it is bolted to a cast iron block, so proper torque ensures the casting is not damaged. The proper torque also ensures the intake manifold gasket properly seals, preventing debris from entering the combustion chamber. It also prevents vacuum leaks from forming and causing running issues.

How

Proper torque is achieved with a torque wrench. A torque wrench is very similar to a basic ratchet, but it is able to be set to a certain torque value. When the set torque value is achieved, it emits an audible signal, typically a clicking sound, to alert the user.

Amount

Torque is measured in a value known as foot-pounds, sometimes abbreviated "ft-lb." All 12 of the bolts on the intake manifold of a 289 engine require a final torque value of 25 ft-lb.

Process

You cannot simply tighten the bolts in straight sequence, as the last bolts tightened do not seal as well as the first. There is an alternating pattern to assure the best seal. Starting with the front passengers side bolt and moving clockwise, the torque sequence goes 9-5-1-3-7-11-12-8-4-2-6-10 (see reference for image). The sequence must be performed three times to ensure accuracy.

The function of a carburetor is to regulate the engines fuel air mixture. If the mixture is too rich, meaning the air content is too low, increased carbonization of the engine can occur. It can also decrease engine performance and increase the chances of smoking. If the mixture is too lean, or the air content is too high, there is less lubrication to the engine which could cause cylinder scoring. Maintaining the proper fuel air ratio is necessary to avoid these problems. This can be done by adjusting the fuel air mix. For most carburetor models, special tools are required to adjust the carburetor. These tools adjust carburetor-specific screws which are now used on most models to prevent adjustment by non-EPA-certified mechanics. Five different carburetor adjustment tools are currently on the market.

Single "D"-shaped Tool

The single "D"-shaped carburetor adjustment tool is used to adjust the tamper-proof adjustment screw found on some carburetor models. Both the tool and the tamper-proof adjustment screw are "D"-shaped. The adjustment of the screw changes the amount of air that is allowed into the engine. By turning the screw in, the amount of air allowed into the engine is reduced, creating a rich fuel air mixture. By turning the screw out, the amount of air allowed into the engine is increased, creating a lean fuel air mixture.

Double "D"-shaped Tool

The double "D"-shaped carburetor tool is used to adjust the double "D"-shaped tamper proof adjustment screw on small engine carburetors. This is done while the engine is running and has had a chance to warm up. This is because the carburetor settings will change once the engine has warmed up.

Hex-shaped Tool

The hex-shaped carburetor adjustment tool is used to adjust the tamper-proof adjustment screw on both small and large engines. The tamper-proof adjustment screw is generally blocked with a cap by the manufacturer to prevent adjustment of the carburetor by non-licensed professionals. Special tools are required for the removal of the cap. The distribution of the cap removal tools are also regulated by the EPA.

Pac-man-shaped Tool

The pac-man-shaped tool is used for the tamper-proof adjustment screw on some Walbro and Zama carburetor models. These tools are also referred to as V-notch carburetor adjustment tools. They are offered to certified mechanics through MTD distributors.

Splined Tool

The splined carburetor adjustment tool is generally used to adjust the tamper-proof adjustment screw on Poulan and Weedeater carburetors. These tamper-proof adjustment screws have four sets of splines each spaced 90 degrees apart.

Every car sold in the United States is required to have a catalytic converter. The catalytic converter is an essential part of your cars emissions system. No matter which option package or engine your Eclipse has, changing the catalytic converter is going to be accomplished the same way. The 1995 Eclipse has a a three-way catalytic converter, named as such because it converts nitrogen oxides into nitrogen and oxygen, carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide and unburned hydrocarbons into carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Instructions

1

Park the car and firmly set the parking brake. Block one drivers side wheel, front and back. Place the jack under the middle of the passenger side, directly below the frame, and lift it high enough to crawl under safely. Place the jack stands under the front and rear sections of the frame and lower the car onto the stands.

2

Spray the bolts on the flanges, on either end of the catalytic converter. Remove the nuts and bolts from both front and rear exhaust flanges on the catalytic convert exhaust pipes by turning them counterclockwise, using a ratchet and socket and a wrench. Remove the converter.

3

Clean the exhaust pipe flange mounting surfaces completely, using the wire brush.

4

Hold one end of the converter in place and insert a gasket between flanges, and reinstall the nuts and bolts, turning them clockwise by hand and tightening them with the ratchet and socket and a wrench.

5

Repeat Step 4 on the other flange and gasket. Start the car and spray both flanges with the soapy water and check for bubbles. Tighten the flange if you see bubbles.

6

Roll the jack under the middle of the frame, raise the car off the stands and remove the stands. Lower the car and remove the jack and wheel blocks.

Paintless dent removal has been practiced by auto professionals for years, and is becoming more widely known outside of the industry, according to MSN Autos. Many dents can even be removed at home with a variety of tools.

Whale Tails

Whale tails are tools that are named for the shape of the tools head. They are very thin and may be slid into tight places, such as between door braces. These tools can get around common features such as a trusion bar, which protects drivers in case of an accident, to pound out dents from inside the car door.

Door Hooks

A door hook is another tool that can easily be slipped into tight spaces to pound out dents. These tools can easily repair dents close to the edge of a sunroof or at the top of the car door. They are made both for right- and left-handed people.

Lights and Reflectors

Optimum visibility is a must when repairing dents in cars. Lights and reflectors may require some teaching in order to use them properly, but after that, they are a tremendous help in lighting an area well enough to see effectively while removing dents.

If the composite headlight assembly in your 1991 Ford Ranger needs replacing due to damage or discoloration, the assembly can be removed from the front of the truck with a little effort and basic tools. The assembly uses screws to hold it in place, and while the trim bezel has to come off first, the screws are all readily accessible. If you need to change the bulbs in these assemblies, do it from the rear of the light without removal.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the truck and locate the two screws on the top of the trim bezel. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver then move to the front of the bezel and locate the four screws in the face of it. Remove them with your Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.

2

Pull the trim bezel off the front of the truck and set it aside. There are three clips along the bottom edge of the bezel; they may require you to pull harder than you think you should but they will let go if you pull hard enough.

3

Locate the four screws at the corners of the headlight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver then pull the headlight assembly toward you until you can reach the headlight bulb connection on the rear off the assembly.

4

Release the locking tab on the headlight bulb and pull the wiring harness connector off the bulb. Set the harness aside and remove the headlight assembly off the truck.

There are several different reasons for why O-rings can fail. Checking for damage is relatively easy. In most cases it is easy to tell that the O-ring does not look normal, but when you identify the exact characteristics, you will know what the problem is and will be able to take steps to fix it. The following four patterns are the most commonly found with O-rings and tells much about the solutions to fix them.

Instructions

1

Examine the O-ring by checking for compression set. This is when the seal lines have become deformed and compressed to the surface and look melted and misshapen. If this has not occurred, continue to the other steps until you can identify the problem. However if it has, it means the material of this O-ring was not suitable, or that the operating system temperature needs to be reduced.

2

Look for extrusion and nibbling. Its characteristics are a "torn," ragged look of the O-ring. This occurs in hydraulic rod and piston seals because of high pressure causing clearance gaps which destroy the ring. If this is the case, you may need to decrease clearance, ensure that the O-ring is tolerant of machine fluid, or replace the O-ring with a harder, more durable one.

3

Check for spiral failure if you have not seen the above two patterns. This looks like the O-ring has been twisted. This occurs when the seal becomes caught on one side but but is sliding and rolling on the other side. This can be fixed by improving surface finish, increased lubrication, or replacing the O-ring with a harder one.

4

Inspect for cracks or splits in the O-ring -- these are signs of explosive decompression. This happens when the O-ring has been operating under high pressure gas, which is then reduced quickly leaving gas trapped within the structure of the O-ring, causing ruptures. To avoid this, slow down decompression time, and select a sealant with resistance to decompression. If this is ineffective, replace the O-ring with a metal seal.

5

Examine the O-rings for abrasion.This looks like the O-ring has been scraped. This occurs when a proper surface finish is not being used. Inadequate lubrication is also a reason -- you may want to use internally-lubricated O-rings. You may need to install filters to avoid contamination of fluid.

2003 Mercedes-Benz C240 vehicles are equipped with a maintenance service indicator that notifies the driver when the vehicle is due for service. This indicator begins the notification process one month before the service is due in order to give the vehicle owner enough time to schedule a service appointment. The C240s on-board computer measures a number of different variables including drive time, average length of trips, engine RPM, and many other factors to determine when the vehicle is due for service. If you take your vehicle to a shop to be serviced, they will reset the indicator for you. However, if you do your own vehicle service or wish to reset the indicator for another reason, youll need to reset the indicator yourself.

Instructions

1

Close all the doors on the vehicle, including the trunk and hood. Turn the ignition to position 1 and press the system selection button on the lower-left side of the steering wheel to cycle through the menu options until the kilometer reading and temperature values are displayed in the multifunction display.

2

Press and release the trip/reset button three times quickly; you should hear a chime sound and the voltage will appear in the multifunction display. Turn the ignition to position 2.

3

Press the scroll forward/back button on the upper-left side of the steering wheel; the service indicator should appear in the multifunction display. Press the trip/reset button one time; the oil type menu will appear in the multifunction display.

4

Select the oil grade for you engine by pressing the volume up/down steering wheel controls on the right side of the steering wheel. The engine oil grade for the 2003 Mercedes-Benz C240 is 5W-40 or 0W-40, depending upon your temperature climate; 0W-40 is recommended in colder climates.

5

Press the scroll forward/back button to confirm the oil type. Confirm oil reset, press R button for 3s will appear in the multifunction display.

6

Press and hold the trip/reset button for three seconds; the multifunction display will show a Service confirmed message. Press the upper scroll forward/back button until the service indicator appears on the multifunction display.

7

Press the upper system selected button on the lower-left side of the steering wheel until the kilometer reading and temperature values show on the multifunction display. Turn the ignition key to the 0 position.

Catalytic converters, which are responsible for igniting and burning unburned engine exhaust gases, became standard automotive equipment on all cars beginning with model year 1975. Although catalytic converters help to make engine exhaust gases cleaner, they are not without their minuses. What follows is a brief list of the potential benefits of removing automotive catalytic converters.

Increased Horsepower

Cars that have their catalytic converters removed experience an increase in engine horsepower. Catalytic converters create a significant source of engine back-pressure due to the constrictive effects they have on exiting engine exhaust gases. Removal of catalytic converters from cars allows exhaust gases to exit their engines much faster and at higher levels.

Better Gas Mileage

Since catalytic converter removal allows for exhaust gases to exit a cars engine at increased speeds, engine back-pressure is reduced, which lessens engine strain. This reduction in engine back-pressure and engine strain enables an engine to work more easily, and thus reduces fuel consumption and increases gas mileage.

Lower Engine Operating Temperature

Since removing a catalytic converter lessens the burden on a cars engine by enabling engine exhaust to vacate the engine more easily, a net effect is a reduction in engine operating temperature. The more easily an engine functions and the less work it has to do results in less friction, less load and, ultimately, a lower operating temperature.

More Fuel Options

Cars equipped with catalytic converters run only on unleaded gasoline. Lead-based gasoline, which produces more power and better engine combustion, quickly destroys the inner catalyst materials of catalytic converters. A car with no catalytic converter will be able to run on a variety of lead-based and/or high-performance fuels that would not be possible with a catalytic converter.

Healthier Exhaust Sound

Catalytic converters operate like car mufflers, whose sole purpose is to muffle the sound of exiting engine exhaust gases. Although catalytic converters burn unburned exhaust gases exiting an engine, thus making tail pipe emissions cleaner, they also further muffle a cars exhaust sound and bestow a somewhat timid, tempered exhaust sound. Without a catalytic converter, a cars exhaust sound becomes a little louder, a little deeper and more distinctive.

The 300D is a member of the series of executive cars by Mercedes Benz with the internal designation W123. The 300 designation indicates the car has a 3.0-liter engine, and the D designation means the engine uses diesel fuel. The timing chain in the Mercedes Benz 300D is an endless timing chain that contains a single master link, or connecting link. You must use a chain-breaker to separate the master link and remove the timing chain.

Instructions

1

Remove the spark plugs with a socket wrench, and disconnect the valve covers.

2

Clamp the timing chain to the camshaft gear. Plug the opening in the cover for the timing chain with shop rags. Attach a chain-breaker to the master link on the timing chain. Separate the master link by using the chain-breaker. Release the clamp from the camshaft gear, and remove the shop rags from the hole in the timing chain cover.

3

Attach the master link on the new timing chain to the master link on the old timing chain. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench as you pull the old timing chain through the camshaft sprocket. Maintain tension on the old timing chain, and stop turning when the master link on the old chain is in the 12 oclock position on the camshaft sprocket.

4

Disconnect the master link on the old timing chain from the master link on the new timing chain, and remove the old timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. Connect the free end of the master link on the new timing chain with the other free end of the timing chain. Make this connection from the rear of the camshaft sprocket, so that you can see the lock washers on the timing chain.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the crankcase. This will close the master link on the new timing chain. Turn the crankshaft at least one full turn clockwise to ensure the new timing chain is properly seated.

The Toyota Camry, one of the most popular mid-size cars in the United States, boasts many safety features, and a range of options to fit almost any budget. The Camry is also well known among mechanics as an easily repairable car, making it that much more desirable. The 1998 Camry is no exception. Known for comfort and safety, this car needs little in the way of maintenance, and repairs tend to fall toward the inexpensive. With a set of mechanics tools and the right Chiltons manual, you can make many of these repairs yourself.

Instructions

Fixing a 1998 Toyota Camry

1

Gather information about 1998 Toyota Camrys. Read customer reviews and mechanic websites. Learn about the common problems and maintenance issues specific to a 1998 Camry. Gather maintenance schedules and information about tire sizes, oil types and other fluids that are specifically compatible with a 1998 Camry.

2

Inspect the car yourself. Test drive the car and listen for any strange sounds. Make note of any pulling or other motion-related disparities in the movement of the car. If possible, pop the hood and get underneath the car. Check for leaking fluids or broken parts.

3

Research any problem you notice. With the information you gathered from the inspection, look through your Chiltons manual, which describes how to fix any mechanical problem you may encounter with your car.

4

Consult with a mechanic, or begin the repair yourself, depending on the nature of the repair needed for the car. If you need to seek professional assistance, contact a mechanic that specializes in foreign cars, or better yet, one that specializes in Toyotas. If you are mechanically inclined or are facing a simple repair, you may choose to fix the vehicle yourself. Make sure you observe safety standards if you need to raise the car on jack stands, and use gloves to protect your hands. You can purchase parts for your Camry at most automotive stores or online. Keep your Chiltons manual close by for reference.

As a car part seller, you may have to occasionally ship an engine to a customer in a different state or across the country. The customer is relying on you to ship the engine securely in one piece and without delay. This can be accomplished when you use a reliable freight shipment company and take the necessary precautions when packaging the engine block for delivery.

Instructions

1

Drain all fluids from the engine so it is ready for transportation (see Resources). Ensuring the engine is clear of fluids will help you avoid damage and delays during shipping.

2

Position a sturdy wooden pallet on level ground. Place the engine block in the center of the pallet.

3

Tie down the engine with rope. Ensure the rope goes through the pallets wooden slates as necessary. This will firmly hold the engine block in place.

4

Wrap the stretch wrap around both the engine block and pallet. This will further secure the engine.

5

Deliver the pallet to the freight shippers warehouse or terminal. Alternatively, you can request for the shipper to pick up the shipment from your location, however, this will cost you additional fees.

6

Check the pallet and engine one last time before signing a delivery confirmation agreement with the freight company.

Between the head and the engine block of a Chevy 350 resides a head gasket. The head gasket is a seal; it keeps the coolant that is moving from the engine block to the head from entering the combustion chambers of the motor. When a head gasket fails, coolant can enter the combustion chamber, which is a bad thing. Installing a new head gasket requires a special torque sequence to ensure the gasket seats properly against the head. Failing to follow the proper tightening sequence will result in the head gasket failing shortly after installation.

Instructions

1

Stand facing the head you are tightening.

2

Mark the top row of head bolts, using a wax marker, starting with the leftmost bolt. Mark that bolt 13. Mark the next bolt, moving to the right, 5. Mark the third one 2 and the fourth one 10. Move to the middle row of bolts and label them 17, 9, 1, 6 and 14 from left to right. Mark the lowest row of head bolts 16, 12, 8, 4, 3, 7, 11 and 15, left to right.

3

Attach a socket matching the size of your 350 Chevys head bolts to a torque wrench.

4

Set the torque wrench to 65 foot-pounds.

5

Tighten the head bolt marked number "1" with the torque wrench. Stop tightening the bolt when the torque wrench signifies the bolt has 65 foot-pounds of torque. Torque each bolt in the order they are numbered. For example, the next bolt you will torque is number "2," then number "3," until you reach bolt number 17.

6

Mark and tighten the bolts on the other head in the same manner as the first.

The oil sending unit on a Nissan 350Z coupe is an integral part of the engines lubrication system. This unit is attached to the front-right side of the engine block, just below the alternator. The oil filter, oil pan, and lower engine compartment are protected by a special undercover thats attached to the frame with metric steel bolts. The vehicle must be lifted, and the cover must be removed in order to access the oil filter and oil sending unit.

Instructions

1

Shut off the engine, chock the rear wheels, and apply the parking brake.

2

Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it with two jack stands; one under each side of the front frame. Check to make sure that the stands are firmly supporting the vehicle.

3

Slide under the vehicle on a mechanics creeper and remove the bolts holding the engine undercover to the frame with a metric socket and a ratchet.

4

Shine a work light up on the right side of the engine block, just below the alternator. The oil filter is attached to the oil sending unit.

If you use your pickup truck for heavy hauling and dont need a full-blown commercial vehicle, a Tommy Lift gate lift is a useful accessory for elevating heavy goods in and out of the truck. The installation of a Tommy Lift gate is a bit technical. It requires some mechanical know-how as well as some automotive electrical work to power the gate.

Instructions

1

Recruit a partner to help with handling the heavy parts. Use an engine hoist and chain for lifting if you cant find someone to help you. Remove the tailgate from the pickup truck. Disconnect the safety cables on both sides of the truck door. If the door sits in a cradle hinge, position it at its halfway point of descent and lift it up to disconnect it. If it is bolted in, use a socket wrench and pliers to disconnect the door hinges.

2

Have your partner hold one side of the lift assembly while you carry the other side of the gate so it wont drop or be awkward to install. If you cant find a partner, use an engine hoist to suspend the lift until it is in place. Install the main door/ramp component of the Tommy Gate to the back of the truck by lining it up with bolt holes in the internal side walls of the end of the truck. Drill the holes with a power drill if they dont already exist. Use metal rods to hold the gate onto the truck until you are ready to insert the bolts -- taper pins work well for this purpose.

3

Connect the motor/pump assembly that comes with the kit. Lift the engine with both hands carefully as it is heavy and can hurt your foot or body part if dropped. Tighten the two long kit bolts per the kit instructions so that the engine is engaged with the gate mechanism. Bolt the engine assembly to the gate to keep it in place. Use vise grip pliers to keep the lift bracket and the truck wall together until youre done attaching the bolts -- this makes it easier to line up the holes.

4

Attach the hydraulic hose connections from the gate to the motor. Connect the drive part that pushes the gate up and down, as instructed.

5

Engage the electrical connections to the vehicle by connecting the red and black wires to the truck wiring for a car battery power source. Use a wire snipper/crimper tool as necessary with wire connectors to splice and attach the wires to each other.

6

Prime the hydraulic system with new hydraulic fluid. Make sure there is no air left in the tubes by keeping one hose open and draining it until all that comes out is fluid. Have the fluid pour into an old container so it doesnt contaminate the ground. Recycle it later on. Seal the last hose when the air is bled and complete the hydraulic fill by connecting that hose to its junction point right away -- otherwise air will get back in. Using a screwdriver, check all the hoses to make sure their connecting clamps are in place and tight.

7

Turn the truck on. Turn the Tommy Gate Lift motor on and test the gate. Make sure to run the gate at least five times up and down to make sure everything is working correctly. Rebleed the hydraulic lines and refill them if the motor works fine but theres not enough pressure to operate the lift.

Installing a custom exhaust can increase horsepower to your vehicle, and give your ride a quality sound that can really change your feelings about the car. This is something that can be done at home on your own, but it does involve some special skills and tools to get the job done correctly. In this case, the project is welding a muffler onto an exhaust on a 1999 Honda Civic to demonstrate proper exhaust welding techniques, but the process is the same for welding the rest of the exhaust, as well.

Instructions

1

Lift up the vehicle using the jack, and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

2

Cut off the factory muffler using the reciprocating saw, just behind the factory muffler. This is a rough cut, so dont worry about how accurate it is; just make the cut as close to the muffler as possible, so that you have room to work with later.

3

Remove the factory muffler from the exhaust hanger using the 24-inch pry bar. Place the muffler to the side.

4

Mount the new muffler with the vehicle-specific exhaust hanger onto the exhaust using the hanger on the muffler. The rear section wont be hooked up, so it will hang off to the back.

5

Pick up the muffler and hold the entry point to the muffler to the cut end on the exhaust tubing. Mark the exhaust tubing with the permanent marker where the muffler will connect. You want it to be as accurate as possible; that way, you can get a nice,flush fit.

6

Cut the exhaust, using the reciprocating saw, along the permanent marker line. Then hold up the muffler to check fit. If the exhaust doesnt line up, then cut off more exhaust tubing until it does.

7

Put on the welding gloves. Hold up the muffler with one hand, positioning the entry point to the muffler next to the exhaust tubing, as close as possible. Then place a small tack weld on the side of the tubing, welding the two pieces together. Do the same on the opposite side of the exhaust, so that its held in place. A tack weld is a short weld, typically less than one second in duration, meant to hold two pieces together before its finish-welded, just in case you need to break the welds apart.

8

Set the MIG welder to weld thin sheet metal, at a low voltage and speed. This will ensure that you dont blow through the steel as youre welding. Put the welding helmet on and weld the seam together, using slow movements around the tubing. You want to keep the welder steady and at the same length from the tubing at all points, and make sure the weld goes all the way around the tubing.

9

Start the vehicle and listen for exhaust leaks. If you hear any, weld up the hole using the welder. Otherwise, lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the jack and place it on the ground.

The Subaru Impreza is a compact car manufactured since 1993. The installation procedure for a fuel pressure regulator in an Impreza depends primarily on the engine. A late-model Impreza has several choices of engines, with the most common being a 4-cylinder 2.5-liter engine. The fuel pressure regulator for this engine is on the fuel rail next to the fuel injectors and is accessible from the top of the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Detach the electrical connector from the fuel pump relay to disable the fuel pump. Start the engine and allow it to stall. Engage the starter for at least five seconds to ensure the fuel system is empty. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay.

2

Remove the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This ensures you dont start the engine inadvertently while replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Detach the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

3

Disconnect the nuts that attach the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel line and remove the clamp on the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the regulator and discard its O-ring.

4

Mount a new O-ring onto the new fuel pressure regulator and install the fuel pressure regulator. Attach the clamp and connect the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator with a socket wrench. Attach the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

5

Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Some Chevy S-10 pickup trucks have problems with the tailgates. The tailgate cables ensure the tailgate stays at the correct level when it is in the down position. Weak cables may result in personal injury and damage to the truck.

History

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration completed a defect investigation (EA05008) which details that owners of select Chevy S-10 trucks are authorized to have the cables replaced free of charge. The investigation also recommended that owners of Chevy S-10 trucks periodically inspect the cables for signs of wear and tear.

Warning

Cables that are worn or frayed can break unexpectedly. Moisture interacting with the cable reduces the strength of the cable. When the cable breaks, the tailgate can come down and hit the bumper. This can damage the bumper and tailgate cosmetically. A person may be injured if he is near or on the tailgate when the cable breaks.

Recommendation

Cables that appear to be worn, frayed or bulging should be brought to the attention of General Motors. A trained technician will be able to determine if the cables need to be replaced. Cables may be replaced free of charge if they are included in a warranty, safety notice or recall.

In the intrusion alarm in your four-door Mondeo is used to deter auto-theft. However, disconnecting it from the battery can disable the intrusion alarm. The car alarm is wired into the negative terminal connected to your Mondeos battery. You dont have to be a car mechanic to disconnect your battery terminal. You can easily perform this task with a few tools found around your home. After the terminal is disconnected you will not have to worry about your alarm going off.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to the Mondeo and locate the battery to the right side of the engine.

2

Look for the negative terminal labeled with "-".

3

Loosen the negative terminal with a socket wrench.

4

Disconnect the negative terminal from the Mondeos battery.

Hyundai began exporting cars to the United States in 1986. Hyundai invested in improving the quality of their vehicles and the ratings and sales of Hyundais began to improve in the 2000s. Hyundai Motor America, the companys U.S. division, currently sells a full line of automobiles. The alignment specs vary from vehicle to vehicle, as well as from year to year, so it is always best to find the specs for a specific model and year rather than simply the make of a vehicle.

Alignment Specs for the 2010 Hyundai Accent

The alignment specs are the same for all trims of the 2010 Hyundai Accent. On the front end, the caster angle can range from +0.5 degrees to +4.0 degrees, the camber can range from zero to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in can range from zero to +0.16 degrees. On the rear end, the camber can range from -1.0 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in can range from +0.16 degrees to +0.32 degrees. The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end.

Alignment Specs for the 2010 Hyundai Elantra

The alignment specs are the same for all trims of the 2010 Elantra sedan. On the front end, the caster angle can range from +0.5 degrees to +4.32 degrees, the camber can range from -0.6 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in can range from zero to +0.16 degrees. On the rear end, the camber can range from -1.0 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in can range from +0.16 degrees to +0.17 degrees.

While the front-end alignment specs are the same for the sedan and Touring trims of the 2010 Elantra, the rear-end specs for the Touring trims are different. For the rear end of the Touring trims, the camber can range from -1.15 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in can range from +0.04 degrees to +0.08 degrees.

The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end of the sedan or Touring trims.

Alignment Specs for the 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe

The alignment specs are the same for all trims of the 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. On the front end, the caster angle can range from +0.5 degrees to +4.5 degrees, the camber angle can range from -0.5 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in can range from zero to +0.2 degrees. On the rear end, the camber can range from -1.0 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe-in should be set at +0.2 degrees. The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end.

Dodge is a brand within the Chrysler auto manufacturing family. Their vehicles range from medium sized front-wheel drive sedans to commercial grade four-wheel drive trucks. The vehicles that send their power to the front wheels rely on continuous velocity joints, also know as U joints, to transfer torque while flexing. Without U joints, the front wheels could not bend and flex with the suspensions struts. However these joints are put under a lot of stress and need to be replaced if they break.

Instructions

1

Park the 2005 Dodge out of traffic and engage the parking brake. Turn the Dodge off and jack up the front of the vehicle with the car jack. Slide in the jack stands to keep the front of the car or truck elevated. Take off the front wheels with your tire iron and place them to the side.

2

Locate the front differential that connects the front half axles together. The half axles have U joints on each end so that they can flex independently. The U joints are a physical part of the half axles, so each half axle has to be removed and replaced. Unbolt the half axle from the shaft on the front differential and wrench the single bolt out of the U joint. Then wrench the bolt out of the shaft on the steering knuckle that connects to the other end of the half axle. Repeat this process on the other half axle.

3

Lift the new half axle into place and thread the bolts through the U joints by hand. First thread in the differential shaft U joint, then the steering knuckle U joint. Once both bolts are in, wrench the nuts down tight. Then repeat the process on the other half axle. Use the car jack to lift the steering knuckle up if it is too heavy for you.

4

Lower the Dodge off the jack stands. Then inspect the bolts in the U joints to make sure they are still tight. Turn the Dodge on. If you are in a four-wheel drive vehicle, shift into "4H." Listen for any banging or screeching that would indicate a loose half axle. Stop the car immediately and tighten the bolts if that happens.

Crankshaft pulley bolts are among the toughest bolts to break loose on vehicles, simply because they are constantly rotating, subjected to high heat and require a high torque value to stay tight. In order to prevent the pulley from turning while loosening the bolt, youll need a crankshaft pulley holding tool. This tool bolts to the inside of the crankshaft pulley using the holes cast into the steel pulley spokes. You can rent or purchase this tool from most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Alight the holes in the crankshaft pulley holding tool with the screw holes on the inside of the crank pulley.

2

Install the bolts that came with the crankshaft pulley holding tool with a ratchet and metric socket. Snug the bolts tight so the tool is firmly secured to the pulley.

3

Place a metric deep-well socket on a T-handle breaker bar, then slide a small diameter steel pipe over the breaker bar; the pipe will give you the increased leverage you need to break the crank pulley bolt loose.

4

Grab the crankshaft pulley holding tool in one hand, then grab the breaker bar and pipe in the other. Hold the pulley still with one hand while you break the bolt loose with the other. If the bolt is extremely tight, you may need an assistant to hold the pulley still while you focus on breaking the bolt loose.

Chryslers LA-series 360 engine, named for its displacement of 360 cubic inches, was one of Mopars mainstays in the 1970s. It was released in 1971 with a two-barrel carburetor; a four-barrel carbureted version was added in 1973. After production of Chryslers 340 ended in 1973, the 360 became the most powerful engine of the LA series. In 1976 it was offered in three forms: a two-barrel version, a four-barrel version and a four-barrel, high-performance version.

Description and Applications

The Chrysler 360 was an overhead-valve, V-8 engine with cast-iron block displacing 360 cubic inches, or 5.9 liters. It had a 4.00-inch bore and a 3.58-inch stroke. It ran on unleaded gasoline, with a minimum recommended octane rating of 87. The engine had five main bearings and featured hydraulic valve lifters. The compression ratio was 8.4 to 1.

The 360 appeared in many Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge cars in 1976 as either the base engine or an option. These models included Chryslers Cordoba and Newport, Dodges Aspen, Coronet, Charger SE, Dart and Monaco, and Plymouths Fury, Gran Fury, Valiant, Duster, Scamp and Volare.

Performance

In its basic, two-barrel carbureted form, the 360 produced 170 horsepower at 4,000 rpm and 280 foot-pounds of torque at 2,400 rpm. In California, a four-barrel Carter carburetor was used in place of the standard Holley two-barrel; the result produced 175 horsepower at 4,000 rpm and 270 foot-pounds of torque at 1,600 rpm. Also available was a high-performance 360 using the same four-barrel Carter carburetor, which produced 220 horsepower at 4,400 rpm and 280 foot-pounds of torque at 3,200 rpm. This version, known by its sales code of "E58," was utilized primarily in high-performance Dodge Darts, Plymouth Valiants and police cars.

Other Specs

The 360, like the 340, used Chryslers "J" cylinder head, with intake valves measuring 1.88 inches in diameter. The firing order of the cylinders was 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The engine had a capacity of 16 qts. of coolant and 5 qts. of oil. The recommended spark plug gap was .035 inches. Champion N12Y plugs were standard, with RN12Y optional. RN12Ys were standard on the high-performance engine. The recommended hot idle speed was 850 rpm, 750 rpm in California with 1,700 rpm as the recommended cold idle speed. A single-snorkel air cleaner was used on the 360.

The 4G63 is a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine that Mitsubishi has manufactured since 1982. It appears in a variety of vehicles manufactured by Mitsubishi and Chrysler, especially during the 1990s. The Mitsubishi Eclipse made from 1990 to 1998 is a common vehicle that features the 4G63 engine. The timing belt in this engine allows the crankshaft to drive the camshaft, keeping the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft synchronized so that the pistons fire at the correct time. A timing belt generally requires replacement after 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine accidentally. Disconnect the covers for the outer timing belt and remove the outer timing belt tensioner. Detach the outer timing belt from its sprockets.

2

Disconnect the outer flange and sprocket from the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Remove the spring for the inner timing belt tensioner from the water pump and disconnect the tensioner. Detach the inner timing belt from its sprockets.

3

Rotate the inner crankshaft sprocket to align the timing marks on the inner sprocket with the timing marks on the front of the crankcase. Install the new inner timing belt around the inner crankshaft sprocket so that the upper span of the timing belt is taut and the timing marks still align.

4

Connect the pulley for the inner timing belt pensioner and turn it by hand until the inner timing belt has a deflection of about 1/4 inch. Hold the pulley in place and tighten the mounting bolt for the inner timing belt pulley to 15 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Pull the inner timing belt tensioner toward the water pump as far as possible and fasten the mounting bolts for the tensioner with the socket wrench. Connect the spring for the inner timing belt tensioner to the water pump.

6

Remove the plug from the hole in the rear side of the cylinder block by the oil pump sprocket. Insert a tool with a diameter of 8mm into the hole to hold the oil pump sprocket in place.

7

Attach the outer crankshaft sprocket to the crankshaft with a socket wrench and align the timing marks on the crankshaft if necessary. Install the new outer timing belt to the outer crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Ensure the outer timing belt is taut except on the outer timing belt tensioner.

8

Align the timing marks on the crankshaft if necessary. Loosen the mounting bolt for the outer timing belt tensioner, allowing the tensioner to apply tension to the outer timing belt. Remove the tool holding the oil pump shaft in place and turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the camshaft sprocket forward by two teeth to take up the slack in the timing belt.

9

Fasten the lower and upper mounting bolts for the outer timing belt tensioner in that order. Adjust the tensioner on the outer timing belt so that the deflection of the outer timing belt at its longest span is about 1/2 inch.

10

Replace the covers for the outer timing belt with a socket wrench. Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery.

The purpose of a transmission modulator is to decide when a transmission shift should occur. It also informs the transmission of the type of load being placed on it. Pressure is regulated by the transmission modulator as well, allowing the transmission to function smoothly.

Problems

There are several problems that can occur with a transmission modulator, most of which happen naturally over a period of time. The modulators diaphragm is subject to rupturing, and leaks are known to occur as well. These types of problems in a modulator cause driving issues and may even cause the transmission to fail altogether.

Inspect

Often the first thing youll want to inspect is the line leading to the transmission modulator. If transmission fluid is visible once you disconnect the line, this indicates a leaking diaphragm. The modulator can also be checked for leaks directly using a handheld vacuum pump.

Remove

A transmission modulator can be removed from the transmission so it can be replaced. Before pulling the modulator from its housing unit, the retaining bolt and clamp will have to be untightened first. Because the actuating pin could fall when the modulator is being pulled out, special care should be taken to avoid losing it.

The Buick LeSabre originated in 1951, but was not placed into production until the 1959 model year. The 2001 Buick LeSabre was available in a base model, and an upgraded Limited model. The 2001 LeSabre was equipped with a 3.8-liter V6 engine, capable of producing up to 205-horsepower and 230-foot-pounds of torque. The taillight bulbs in the rear of the LeSabre are enclosed within the taillight housing, which is fastened through the inside of the trunk.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of the LeSabre.

2

Remove the three plastic winged nuts from one side of the trunk, on the rear side of the taillight bulb assembly you are working on. You can use a pair of pliers to remove the winged nuts, if they are too tight to be removed by hand. Be careful not to snap the tabs off of the wing nuts with too much pressure. Peel the trunk liner off of the taillight studs and away from the taillight.

3

Pull the taillight assembly away from the rear of the LeSabre, and rest the assembly on the rear bumper. Remove the taillight from the housing by turning it counterclockwise in relation to its position on the car.

4

Pull the old taillight bulb out of the socket by hand. Insert a new taillight bulb using a paper towel or napkin around your hand. Do not touch the taillight bulb with your fingers directly.

5

Reinstall the taillight bulb back into the assembly, and turn it clockwise to lock it in position. Install the taillight assembly back into the rear of the car.

6

Push the trunk lining back onto the rear of the trunk, allowing the taillight assembly studs to go through the allotted holes. Install the plastic wing nuts onto the studs and tighten them by hand. No torque is needed to tighten the wing nuts.

7

Follow Steps 2 through 6 to change the taillight bulb on the opposite side of the bulb you just replaced.

Chevrolet vehicles made in 1991 typically have an anti-lock braking system, or ABS, to improve the vehicles braking ability during an emergency stop. An electronic brake control module, or EBCM, monitors the rotation speed of each wheel. The EBCM decreases the braking force to a wheel when it detects that the wheel is rotating more slowly than the other wheels. The procedure for installing the EBCM is generally the same among many Chevrolet cars made from 1982 to 1994.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. An electrical discharge from the battery can damage the EBCM when you remove it.

2

Unplug the electrical connectors from the EBCM. The EBCM is a small, box-like component mounted to the dash panel on the drivers side. It typically has two electrical connectors.

3

Remove the three hex head screws from the EBCM with a hex wrench. Detach the EBCM from the dash panel. Remove it from the vehicle.

4

Align the holes in the grommets on the new EBCM with the corresponding holes in the dash panel. Hold the EBCM to the dash panel.

5

Attach the hex head screws to the EBCM with a hex wrench. Torque the screws to 17 pound-feet with a torque wrench.

6

Attach the electrical connectors to the EBCM and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

An exhaust valve allows cylinder head gasses to escape, Expensive engine work is often necessary when an exhaust valve breaks. Though repair is needed once this occurs, having information on what caused the valve breakage might be important.

Types

There are two types of breakage to which exhaust valves can fall victim. One type involves a breakage where the head and the stem connect. A break can also occur at the point of the stem where the keeper-grooves have been built in.

Head Breakage

Exhaust valves can experience this type of breakage because of stretching that occurs due to constant heat. Thermal shock negatively effects exhaust valves, because sudden drops in the engines temperature causes them to break.

Stem Breakage

Heavy wear in the keeper grooves will cause the stem to snap off an exhaust valve. Constant sideloading can cause stem breakage if the stem height has not been installed correctly.

Checking the codes on your Chevy Duramax will reveal pertinent information about mechanical and electrical functions of the truck. Resetting the codes on your Duramax will take no longer than 10 minutes. The tool you need for this job is an OBD-II code reader, which can be purchased from any auto parts retailer. It is a handheld computerized device that reads and resets computer codes on your vehicle. Always complete any servicing and repairs before you attempt to reset the codes to prevent damage to your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Plug your OBD-II code reader into the port on the bottom of the drivers side dashboard. The port and the code readers plug are both triangular shaped.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position. This should power on the code reader. If not, turn on the code reader.

3

Select the "Read" command on the code reader, then select "Delete." Wait for the code reader to indicate that the command has been completed. This is usually indicated by returning to the main menu.

4

Remove the code reader from the port and turn the engine on. Verify that all service and warning lights have shut off.

Anyone considering autobody work for personal vehicles or as a way of starting a business should to be familiar with the tools of the trade. Several companies offer all-inclusive sets for specific needs that make it easier to amass the necessary items in one step. If you have no professional auto body experience, always consult an autobody professional for advice and tips to do the job properly.

Badger Pro Air Brush Kit

The Badger Pro Air Brush Kit puts several items together with a dual-action air brush for painting, which is the important final step to any auto body repair. A 3/4-ounce jar with cap as well as a two-ounce jar and cover are part of the kit. Other pieces include a 1.4 ounce color cup, an 8-foot braided air hose, a 1/4-inch pipe thread fitting, a head wrench and an airbrush hanger. The entire set of items comes in a deluxe wooden case. An instruction booklet provide details about usage of the kits products.

Dominator II Deluxe Dent Removal System

The Dominator II Deluxe Dent Removal System has seven interchangeable tapping heads that range from most aggressive for thick metal to least aggressive for thin metal. The heads spin at 20,000 rotations per minute and taps the metal underneath the dent, then moves the metal into place without paint removal. Large and medium pneumatic suction heads are for larger problems. Ear protection accompanies any system sold.

Millermatic 140 Weld

The Millermatic 140 Weld can be of use when joining together jagged or open surfaces of a cars body. The M-10 Miller MIG gun features a factory-installed gas solenoid valve and AR/CO2 mix regulator/flow gauge in addition to the 10-foot work cable with clamp. The power cord reaches 6 feet. Contact tips for .024-inch wire and two contact tips for .030-inch wire are included, as is a dual-groove quick-change drive roll for .024-inch wire or .030/.035-inch wire. A single spool of Hobart brand .030-inch solid wire is provided. A set-up and operation video instructs in the proper use of all items, and an information/settings chart helps with quick reference.

National Detroit Disk Sander

A National Detroit disk sander helps smooth out any rough surfaces. The 8-inch gear-driven pad operates on surfaces with positive rotation and an oscillating action. Swift stock removal allows the user total control while eliminating normal scratch patterns.

You should make sure that the back-up lights on your 2003 Cadillac CTS are always in functioning order, and not just for safety reasons. Theres also the chance that you could get a citation for driving with faulty taillights. The 2003 CTS uses a number 3157 bulb for the back-up lights. Changing the back-up lights on the CTS is a simple process, and all you will need is a screwdriver.

Instructions

1

Pop the trunk of the CTS and turn off the engine.

2

Rotate the plastic wing nut on the tire counterclockwise to loosen and remove it. Remove the tire from the trunk of the CTS.

3

Detach the two screws securing the taillight assembly to the vehicle, using a Phillips screwdriver.

4

Pull the assembly out of the vehicle and remove the top socket by rotating it counterclockwise.

5

Pull the socket out of the assembly. Remove the bulb from the socket and push a new bulb in.

6

Reinsert the socket into the assembly and rotate it clockwise to secure it.

7

Reinsert the assembly into the CTS and reattach the two screws.

8

Place the tire back into the trunk. Secure it by rotating the wing nut clockwise. Close the trunk lid.

The clockspring provides constant electrical contact to the steering wheel-mounted module and related components. Its primary responsibility is feeding power from the battery to the air bag for emergency deployment. If the clockspring fails, it affects the air bag, horn, and cruise control, if equipped. As with any part, the clockspring may fail due to age. It is especially susceptible due to the constant rotation of the steering wheel. There are two versions of clocksprings. If you have cruise control, you need the three-wire version. Otherwise, buy the two-wire model.

Instructions

1

Position the front wheels straight-ahead. Remove the key from the ignition.

2

Remove the negative battery cable wrap the terminal with high-quality electrical tape. Wait a minimum of two minutes before proceeding with repairs on the vehicle. The reserve capacitor holds a charge to deploy the air bag even after disconnection of the cable.

3

Remove the two Phillips screws just below the steering wheel on the dashboard. Remove the panels located behind the knee panel. Youll encounter two Phillips screws and two clips.

4

Using your Phillips screwdriver, remove the two steering wheel shroud cover screws.

5

Use a hex driver to remove the air bag module mounting bolts at "10" and "2" on the rear of the steering wheel. Gently tilt the module forward.

6

Press the connector for the yellow air bag wire toward the module until the lock spreads open. Use a small tipped prying tool to gently pry the connector from the module while holding the lock open. Unplug the black and white horn wire and slide off its rubber sleeve.

7

Unplug the green wire located near the steering wheel retaining bolt if your vehicle has cruise control.

8

Carry the air bag module with the bag and trim cover pointed away from the body in case of accidental deployment. Place it in a clean and dry area with the cover side up.

9

Prevent the steering wheel from turning while using a 21 or 22 mm socket to remove the retaining bolt.

10

Mark the steering wheel and shaft for re-alignment. Extract the steering wheel from the shaft by using a steering wheel puller.

11

Disconnect the remote switch harness connectors. If you are unable to start or unlock your vehicle remotely, you can ignore this step.

12

Look up at the steering column from the floorboard. Disconnect the clocksprings two lower electrical connectors.

13

Remove the clocksprings retaining screws and slide it up and off the upper steering column shaft.

Installation

14

Slide the new clockspring on the steering column with the locking pin in place. If you remove the locking pin before installation, youll have to perform other centering measures before you can install the part.

15

Align the clockspring and seat its three pins on the rotor hub with the three holes in the turn signal cancel cam. The oblong pin belongs at the top of the clockspring rotor. Align and seat one pin and two mounting holes with corresponding holes in combination switch.

16

Install the two clockspring retaining screws.

17

Reinstall the steering wheel, including tightening the retaining bolt.

18

Tilt the air bag module into place and re-attach the horn, air bag and, if applicable, the cruise control connectors. Place the module into position and tighten its bolts.

Reinstall all the panels and re-attach the battery cable.

Four-wheel drive vehicles receive torque from the engine in all four wheels at the same time. The original concept was to be able to maintain traction to either haul extra weight or drive in tough road conditions, or both. There are two modes of 4-wheel drives. The part-time mode is used for off-road driving or loose road surfaces. The driver is able to switch from 2-wheel drive to 4-wheel drive as needed. Full-time mode is used in all road conditions all of the time.

Differentials

The 4-wheel drive has a differential between the two front wheels and another between the back wheels. During a turn, all wheels are going at different speeds while at the same time, the inside wheels are following a different path than the outside wheels. The differentials allow front, back, left and right wheels to spin at different speeds during a turn by sending the power from the engine to the wheels. The differentials slow the transmissions rotational speed before it hits the wheels. In this manner it behaves as the last gear reduction of the vehicle.

Transfer Case

The transfer case is said to be the component that defines a vehicle as 4-wheel drive. This device splits power between all four axles on the vehicle. The transfer case is used to lock the front and rear axle drive shafts to force the wheels to have the same speed when they are turning. On part-time 4-wheel drive systems, transfer cases have an extra set of gears. These gears give a low range to the vehicle, providing extra torque.

Drive Shaft

Drive shafts enable the transfer case to transmit power from the drive to the front and back axles. The drive shafts are enclosed inside axle housings and transmit the drive to the tires. In part-time 4-wheel drive vehicles the drive is transmitted through the front axle drive only when the driver uses 4-wheel drive.

Locking Hubs

Every vehicles wheels are bolted to a hub. Part-time 4-wheel drive vehicles are equipped with locking hubs that are designed to disconnect front wheels from the front differential when 4-wheel drive is not engaged. The locking hubs also disconnect the front wheels from the drive shaft when a car is in 2-wheel drive.

Electronics

Electronically controlled clutches are used on some 4-wheel drive vehicles. This type of clutch controls torque transfer between the tires in a much more effective manner than older clutch mechanisms. Many 4-wheel drive systems use Anti Lock Brake Systems (ABS). The ABS systems provide brake-traction control when the tires begin to skid.

The Ford AOD automatic overdrive four-speed transmission, introduced in 1980, was used with most Ford engines of the day. Ford later introduced the AODE, a computer-controlled version of the AOD. The AODE was used from 1992 to 1995, when it was improved with wider gear ratios to become the 4R70W. The AODE and 4R70W differ from the older AOD by an attached cable, allowing computer control. The AOD transmission is identified visually, first to identify the AOD, then to differentiate between the AODE and 4R70W transmission.

Instructions

1

Slide under the vehicle to view the transmission pan. The transmission is under the center of the vehicle, immediately behind the engine. The pan is located on the bottom of the transmission and attached by 14 bolts. AOD, AODE and 4R70W transmissions all have the same pan shape, illustrated on Fordification.coms AOD section on the Automatic Transmission Identification page.

2

Look for the electronic cable and electrical plug. AODE and 4R70W transmissions have a plug on the drivers-side rear of the transmission housing. This is where the electronic control cable plugs into the unit and is what differentiates the older AOD transmission from AODE and 4R70W units.

3

Identify differences between the AODE and 4R70W. Although essentially the same transmission, the Thunderbird and Cougar Club of America identifies their differences as different gear ratios and the 4R70W having a larger outside diameter slip yoke on the drive shaft, requiring a different extension housing. Another identification tool, found on The Ranger Station, identifies the 4R70Ws transmission code as "U," which is located on the Safety Compliance Certification Label on the inside Drivers side door post.

The blower resistor on most cars and trucks controls the speed of the blower motor by changing the voltage that reaches the motor when the speed switch is moved from one setting to another. On the Pontiac Aztek, the resistor is part of a controller mounted on the front of the blower motor housing under the passengers side dash. If the motor runs on high but not on any other speed, theres a good chance that the resistor is no longer functioning and needs to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Locate the blower motor under the passengers side of the dash. Find the blower controller to the left of the motor and disconnect the wiring harness connection on the controller from the connector on the wiring harness.

2

Depress the locking tab as you separate the two halves of the connection. Lay the connector from the wiring harness aside where it will not get damaged.

3

Locate the two retaining bolts on the bottom edge of the controller and remove them with a socket and ratchet. Pull the controller off the housing and remove it from under the dash.

A car dolly, or tow dolly, is used to move a vehicle from one place to another when driving it is not an option. The immobile car is driven or pushed up ramps onto the carriage and strapped down with safety straps. A fixed cradle dolly takes corners differently than a swivel cradle dolly since there is no pivot point on the dolly. Care should be used while towing the dolly around corners.

Instructions

Axle Preparation

1

Measure the length of the axle between the leaf spring mounts. Cut the axle at the center of this distance with a metal cutter.

2

Measure the inside diameter of the axle tube to determine the required outside diameter of the sprinkler pipe. Slide the sprinkler pipe into the axle tube so that 6 inches of sprinkler pipe is inside the axle on each side.

3

Weld both joints of the axle and sprinkler pipe using the welder.

The Cradle

4

Cut two 80-inch and two 23-inch pieces of angle steel. Weld the angle steel into a rectangle.

5

Weld a piece of angle steel 18 inches from each of the shorter sides to create two boxes on either end of the cradle.

6

Into each of the boxes you just created, weld two pieces of angle steel that run parallel to the longer side of the rectangle. The new pieces of steel should be 6 inches from the outside edges.

7

Tack weld the cradle onto the axle between the tires to make sure it is square. The center of the cradle should be at the center of the tire. Fully weld the cradle in place. The axle will be offset from center. The front of the dolly is the side with the offset.

The Tongue

8

Cut a 4-foot piece of box tubing. Under the center of the cradle, tack weld this piece of box tubing to the cradle and to the bottom of the axle. Make sure that the tongue is centered and completely welded at the cradle and axle.

9

Cut two more pieces of box steel, each 12 inches long. Place one piece on top of the other piece and slide it forward 6 inches. Weld together.

10

Weld this piece onto the 4-foot piece of tubing already on the dolly, overlapping the pieces by at least 6 inches.

11

Cut another piece of box tubing two feet long. Weld this piece onto the top 12-inch piece of box steel, leaving six inches overlapping. Weld the trailer coupler onto the end of the tongue.

12

Cut two 27-inch pieces of box tubing. Angle them between the tongue and the cradle and weld into place.

Finishing the Dolly

13

Cut the 8-foot plank in half to form two 4-foot pieces. Cut two 12-inch pieces of angle steel.

14

Attach one piece of angle steel to one end of each plank to form the ramps for the dolly.

15

Attach one fender to each side of the cradle of the dolly using the hardware and instructions provided with the fenders.

16

Mount and wire the trailer lights according to the instructions provided with the lights.

An 8-cylinder 7.3-liter diesel engine is one of the engines that Ford uses in full-size pickup trucks. This engine is most common in the F-250 3/4-ton and F-350 full-ton pickup truck. The fuel system for this engine requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel under high pressure. The fuel pump for this engine is located in the engine compartment on top of the engine. A turbocharged engine will also require you to remove the turbocharger prior to replacing the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the banjo bolt for the fuel line on the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Remove the fittings for the fuel line at the rear of the cylinder heads and discard the old seal rings. Release the clamps for the fuel pump lines on the front of the fuel pump and detach the fuel lines.

2

Disconnect the drain hose from the fuel filter and remove the fuel filter with a socket wrench. Loosen the retaining bolts for the fuel pump retaining bolts and pull the fuel pump from the crankcase. Discard the O-ring and disconnect the tappet of the fuel pump from the crankcase bore.

3

Connect the fuel pump tappet to the base of the new fuel pump and replace the O-ring on the fuel pump. Install the new fuel pump into the crankcase and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

4

Install the fuel filter and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the drain hose to the fuel filter and connect the fuel lines to the front of the fuel pump. Tighten the clamps on the fuel line and install new seal rings on the rear of the fuel pump.

5

Install the fittings for the fuel lines towards the rear of the cylinder heads without tightening them. Install the banjo bolt onto the fuel pump and tighten it to 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the fittings for the fuel line with a socket wrench.

You can save money by replacing the oxygen sensor in your Honda CRV and avoiding a trip to the repair shop. The key is to use the correct tools for the job and to gain the know-how. Although it sounds complicated, swapping out the sensor is a step-by-step process that can be done in your driveway or garage. The purpose of the oxygen sensor is to measure the emission levels and ensure that your CRV is operating within normal limits. If your oxygen sensor is not operating properly, the "Check Engine" indicator will light up on your dashboard.

Instructions

1

Confirm that your oxygen sensor has to be replaced by taking your Honda CRV to an auto parts store that has a code machine. Technicians can hook up your CRV to their machine to get a code to confirm that your oxygen sensor is faulty. There usually is no fee for this service.

2

Purchase your oxygen sensor. The model number will depend on the year of your CRV. An auto parts store can assist you in obtaining the correct part.

3

Acquire an oxygen sensor wrench. You can rent one from a tools rental store or an auto parts store, if you dont have one or dont want to purchase one.

4

Drive your car onto auto ramps and set the parking brake, or jack it up so that you can get underneath the car to work.

5

Locate the two oxygen sensors. One is at the front and one at the back of the catalytic converter. The code that you had detected earlier indicates the faulty sensor. Or you could replace both.

6

Disconnect your negative battery cable.

7

Unscrew the bracket holding the sensors in place. This will allow access to the sensors.

8

Remove the sensor by using the oxygen sensor wrench. If the sensor is difficult to remove, you can warm up the engine by running it for a few minutes or you can spray the sensor with a lubricant.

9

Put the new sensor in place and tighten the bracket holding the sensors.

10

Reattach the negative battery cable.

11

Drive your car five to 10 miles after completing the job. This will cause the Hondas "Check Engine" light to reset.

The original Ford E-Series compact van hit the automotive consumer market in 1961. Beginning in 1968, the Ford E-series van underwent radical design changes that included a sturdier truck-like construction, larger cargo area and more passenger seating. Heavy-duty models such as the E-350 and E-450 featured a longer wheelbase and more powerful engine options throughout the years. Finding out your vehicles rear axle type and specific gearing ratio will allow you to make informed decisions when searching for replacement components.

Instructions

1

Open the front drivers side door of the vehicle.

2

Examine the lower edge of the door and locate the identification label. The identification label contains important information concerning your E-350, such as tire specifications, Vehicle Identification Number and axle type installed.

3

Write down the character code listed under "AXLE" (located near the bottom of the label).

4

Navigate to the "Ford Differential Axle Codes" webpage, maintained by Drivetrain.com, scroll through the axle code list and find your vehicles axle code in the left column. The numerical value presented in the right column lists the rear axle ratio for your vehicle.

The location of the vehicle in winter will affect the type of oil chosen during colder months. Hawaii, for example, stays relatively warm all year and therefore there is less need to change oil weight with the season. Consulting the owners manual for the specific vehicle will reveal what the manufacturer recommends (for instance, the owners manual for a 2001 Honda Civic recommends using 5W-20 oil year-round, but 5W-30 is acceptable if 5W-20 is not available).

Numbers and Letters on Oil

The numbers on motor oil show the oils viscosity rating and range from zero to 50. The oils weight is the "viscosity index" on a scale up to 100 degrees Celsius. The lower number, often followed by a W for "winter", corresponds to the oils ease of movement during colder temperatures. The higher numbers correspond the the oils thickness and ability to maintain that thickness even at higher temperatures. Numbers such as 5W-30 have a wide range, from below -30 degrees to over 100 degrees.

Age of the Vehicle

Older vehicles, whose engines have high mileage, are often recommended to use or switch to an oil that is thicker. This will help limit the noise produced by older engines, as well as reducing the overall oil-consumption by the vehicle and prolong its life. The improved lubrication of the engine helps protect it from wear due to long-time use and age.

Regional Differences

Many newer vehicles, less than 20 years old for example, are recommended by manufacturers to use one type of oil year-round, such as the 5W-20 in a 2001 Honda Civic. If the location, however, suffers extremely cold winters (temperatures below -30 degrees Celsius, for instance) local auto parts stores and mechanics will have regionally-appropriate recommendations for oil weights. Not all manufacturers will account for such temperature extremes in the owners manuals so consulting local experts will prove helpful.

The B10 transmission, officially referred to as the BA 10/5, is a light duty, rear-wheel drive, manual transmission designed by Peugeot in France and used by Jeep in the late 80s. It looks similar to Jeeps heavier-duty, AX-15 transmission except it is smaller in size.

Vehicles Used In

The BA 10/5 transmission was used in numerous 6-cylinder Jeep models, including Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, Comanches, Wagoneers, CJ2As, CJ31s, CJ5s, CJ6s, CJ7s, CJ8s, Jeepsters, Scramblers and Wranglers (in 4.0L models from 1987 to 1989 and in 4.2L models from 1987 to 1990).

General Description

Unlike the AX-15, which uses a one-piece, aluminum case, the BA 10/5 features a two-piece, aluminum case that is split lengthwise, and held together by upper and lower bolts. It features a 1 1/8-inch input shaft with an output spline of 21 or 23. As indicated by the "5" in its name, it is a 5-speed transmission.

BA 10/5 Gearing

This transmission features a factory gear-ratio of 3.39 for first, 2.33 for second, 1.44 for third, 1.00 for fourth and 0.79 for fifth gear.

Strong connection points between electronic components will help reduce the likelihood of malfunctions and failures within an electrical system. Certain types of batteries and wire connections may feature "Blade" type F1 terminals. Terminals such as F1 connectors feature a rectangular shape with a width of 4.8 mm and allow a convenient way to connect circuits without the need for hardwiring. Connecting F1 terminals is an easy task with the right tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Strip 1/4-inch of insulation off the wire that will connect to the F1 terminal, using a pair of wire crimpers.

2

Twist the exposed wire strands to avoid fraying. Insert the bare wire into the barreled portion of the female quick disconnect terminal. Hold the wire and connector together with your fingers, ensuring the exposed strands of the wire do not slip out of the connectors barreled end.

3

Place the barreled end of the connector into the corresponding color-coded notch featured on the crimp tool. With the connector properly in place, crimp the connector by squeezing the handles of the wire crimper together.

4

Check the quality of the connection by attempting to pull the wire from the quick disconnect terminal.

5

Slide the quick disconnect terminal onto the rectangular portion of the F1 terminal. Check for a snug connection between the F1 terminal and the quick disconnect. Tighten the connection by carefully squeezing down the rolled edges of the female terminal, using a pair of needlenose pliers if necessary.

As is true of every automobile engine manufactured since 1981, the EG33 engine in your Subaru has a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) stamped on it during production. This VIN is a type of serial number and it is unique to your particular vehicle. Besides serving as an ID number, the VIN has important information about your car encoded into it, including the production year of the vehicle. The most efficient way to identify the production year of your Subaru is to locate the VIN number on the engine and decode it.

Instructions

1

Locate the VIN number on your EG33 Subaru engine. The VIN number can be found stamped on the machine pad on the front portion of the engine block. It will begin with a "1."

2

Write down the VIN number. Copy every digit precisely, reading from left to right. Your Subaru VIN will consist of 17 digits.

3

Circle the 10th digit of the VIN. Start with the first digit on the left and count to the right. The 10th digit of the VIN on a Subaru represents the year of production. The EG33 engine was used in the 1990s as Subarus stock, six-cylinder engine. Therefore, if the 10th digit of the VIN is "6," the production year of your EG33 engine is 1996.

Never lower the front end of any motorcycle without also lowering the rear of that motorcycle the same amount. Because of elements of frame geometry called "rake" and "trail" it is possible to safely lower just the rear end of a motorcycle, but lowering only the front end can make the bike dangerously unstable. Lowering a motorcycle also decreases the bikes ground clearance. Nevertheless, it remains a popular modification. Progressive Suspension sells a fork lowering kit that includes all the parts you will need. Harley sells a kit that includes everything except a couple of seals.

Instructions

Fork Disassembly

1

Remove the windshield from the Softail Heritage using the quick detach mechanism.

2

Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the front tire is off the floor and the forks are fully extended.

3

Remove the front brake caliper with a hex socket and a socket wrench. Support the caliper with a bungee cord attached to the caliper and the handlebars.

4

Remove the axle nut, lock washer and washer with a socket wrench and hex socket. Pull the axle free from the wheel. Remove the front wheel from the forks.

5

Remove the 4 front fender mounting screws and nuts with an Allen wrench and a hex socket and a socket wrench. Remove the front fender.

6

Remove both slider tube caps with a large adjustable wrench. Remove the slider tube cap washers and seals from both forks.

7

Remove the clamp bolts from both sides of the fork tube bracket with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Pull the forks from the bracket.

8

Remove the fork tube plugs and O-rings from both slider tubes using a large adjustable wrench. Pull the fork springs from both slider tubes.

9

Remove the drain screw and washer from one fork slider at a time with a Phillips head screwdriver. Drain the fork oil from one fork at a time into a drain pan.

Fork Reassembly

10

Reinstall the drain screws and washers into both fork sliders. Refill the forks with the type and quantity of fork oil specified in the owners manual for your year Heritage Softail.

11

Insert the new springs from the fork lowering kit into each slider tube with the more tightly wound portion of the spring on the bottom.

12

Replace the fork tube plugs and O-rings into both slider tubes and tighten securely with a large adjustable wrench. Ensure that one flat on each fork tube plug faces toward the inside of the fork.

13

Insert both fork slider assemblies up through the slider covers, the fork stem and bracket, and the upper fork bracket.

14

Install 2 new fork cap oil seals and the old spacers and slider tube caps onto the tops of the slider tubes with a large adjustable wrench.

15

Reinstall the clamp bots into both sides of the fork tube bracket and tighten with an Allen socket and torque wrench to 35 foot pounds of torque.

16

Replace the front fender. Replace the 4 front fender mounting screws and nuts with an Allen wrench and a hex socket and socket wrench.

Jiffy Stand

17

Retract the jiffy stand installed on the bike to the "up" position. Unhook the jiffy stand spring from the frame. Remove the jiffy stand bolt, washer, lock washer and leg stop from the threaded end of the jiffy stand with a hex socket and socket wrench.

18

Discard the old jiffy stand. Retain all hardware and other components.

19

Assemble the new jiffy stand leg assembly from the kit to the mounting bracket on the motorcycle. Open the jiffy stand to the "down" position.

20

Position the jiffy stand leg over the square end of the jiffy stand assembly. Ensure the "down side" text on the leg is facing down and that the longer side of the leg faces the rear of the bike.

21

Reinstall the flat washer, lock washer and bolt you removed with a socket wrench and hex socket.

22

Reattach the jiffy stand leg spring. Install the rubber from the kit into the hole on the raised tip of the jiffy stand leg. Extend and retract the jiffy stand leg several times to verify proper operation.

Final Reassembly

23

Put your foot under forks. Roll the front laced wheel into the forks atop your foot. Lift your foot.

24

Replace the axle. Replace the axle nut, lock washer and washer. Tighten the axle nut to 55 foot pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.

25

Replace the front brake caliper. Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to 38 pounds of torque with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

26

Lower the motorcycle jack and remove. Replace the front windshield.

The Pontiac Bonneville has a window regulator in each of its four doors in order to open and close the windows. Since mechanical items always break sooner or later, if you own your Bonneville long enough youll eventually face a window regulator replacement job. While this isnt the easiest repair a Pontiac owner will meet, its not the hardest either. If you have basic mechanical repair skills and an hour of time on your hands, you can install a new window regulator in a Pontiac Bonneville.

Instructions

1

Remove the Bonnevilles window and lock switch plate from the door panel using the trim tool. Unplug each switch from the wiring harness by hand and place them aside.

2

Remove the screws holding the Bonnevilles door panel to the door skin using the Phillips screwdriver. Pry the door panel trim pins loose with the trim tool by inserting the head of the tool between the door panel and door, then working your way around the perimeter until youve freed each of the pins from their anchor holes.

3

Remove the door panel from the door by lifting up on it until it clears the lower edge of the window frame and then moving it away from the door.

4

Lift the Bonnevilles window to its full height by hand. Tape it to the top of the door with packing tape to give you clear access to the regulators mounting bolts.

5

Remove the two bolts holding the regulator to the window, the two bolts holding the regulator to the door and the single bolt holding the window motor to the regulator using the socket set.

6

Remove the Bonnevilles window regulator by hand. Position the new regulator and bolt it in place. Remove the packing tape and then reinstall the door panel in reverse of how you removed it.