Repair And Fix it

Harley introduced Road King dressers with an 82 cubic inch Evolution engine in 1993. The models were sold with 88 inch Twin Cam engines beginning in 1999, and since 2006 the model has been shipped with 96 cubic inch Twin Cam power plants. The current model weighs about 815 pounds. They are designed for long distance travel so riders who do a lot of touring are often concerned with gas mileage. After performing basic stage one power upgrades, more power always equals poorer gas mileage. There are, however, a number of suggestions for improving power without seriously degrading mileage on the road.

Instructions

1

It is common to call the first necessary power improvements to any new Road King the "Harley tax." The Motor Company inhibits the respiration of new motors to better meet government clean air goals. The first power improvement you should make is to your Road Kings air intake. Replace your stock air cleaner with a high flow air cleaner.

2

If your motorcycle is carbureted, rejet your carb, remove the factory installed air-fuel mixture plug on the bottom of your stock carburetor and fatten up the mixture slightly. If your bike has Electronic Fuel Injection, replace your EFI module with an aftermarket model or at least have your stock EFI remapped by a competent technician. Research done by Harley-Davidson in 2007 showed that Road King horsepower could be increased by about 9 percent by remapping alone.

3

Install a high performance, two into one exhaust. What the engine breathes in it must also breathe out. Installation of an efficient exhaust system can also add another nine or ten percent to your engines horsepower. Two into one exhausts help maintain equal back pressure in both cylinders. Replacing your Road Kings exhaust is a basic job you should have no trouble doing yourself.

4

If you spend most of the time on your Road King touring, you should consider a replacement cam or cams. Cams control the flow of air into and exhaust out of your cylinders. They also influence the power range of your bike. If you spend most of your riding time going 80 miles an hour through the wide open spaces you want your Road King to make power most efficiently in that power band.

5

Consider replacing your stock cylinder heads with aftermarket cylinder heads. Head design and porting is a craft that is difficult to perfect with mass-produced products. The shape and finish of your heads greatly effects efficiency of the explosions in your engines. Bigger bangs mean more power. Most after market head makers and porters claim power increases of up to ten percent with their products.

Having survived multiple owners, the Great Depression and two world wars, Cushman has been in the business of manufacturing industrial utility vehicles since 1901. The company, which is now a subsidiary of Textron Industries, manufactures a wide line of personnel carriers, ATVs and material handling vehicles. The governor on a Cushman is a component that measures and controls the vehicles speed. You can remove it fairly easily using pliers and a socket set.

Instructions

1

Access the engine compartment of the Cushman and locate the governor. If you do not find it immediately, pinpoint the carburetor and then trace the linkage running from the carburetor to the governor.

2

Remove the governor spring from the governor arm and the carburetor, using pliers.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness the governor plugs into.

4

Remove the governors retaining bolts with the socket set, and lift it out.

The Buick Regal is a four door sedan. If your 1994 Buick Regal will not start, there are several things that you can look at before you get it towed into an auto-shop. The battery on your Buick Regal is the most important part of the starting process. If your battery is dead, the Buick Regal will not start properly. Car batteries can go out, but the primary cause is leaving the lights on in the car overnight.

Instructions

Regal Wont Crank

1

Get another car and jump the battery with jumper cables.

2

Allow the car to sit for about 5 minutes to charge the battery.

3

Take the jumper cables off of the battery after 5 minutes and then turn the car off.

4

Restart the car. If the car does not restart, replace the battery.

Regal Cranks

5

Check the fuel level to make sure the car has enough gas. The car cannot start without gasoline.

6

Ensure that there is no corrosion on the Regals spark plug.

7

Remove the timing belt cover on the Regals engine. Look over the timing belt and make sure that there are no cracks in the belt. Replace the belt if needed.

8

Turn Regals key to "On" and listen for the Regals fuel pump to pressurize. If you dont hear the fuel pump, you may need to replace it.

If you need to change the instrument cluster on your vehicle, consider purchasing or borrowing a Haynes Repair Manual. The Haynes Publishing group offers a manual for just about every vehicle, and they can be costly, but they contain the instructions you will need. The instrument cluster is part of the dashboard and the removal process is different depending on the make and model of a vehicle. You may have to move and remove other components just to get to the cluster. If you are going to attempt this task, work slowly and take detailed notes as you remove each part. This will help ease the reinstallation process.

Instructions

1

Ensure that you ordered the correct instrument cluster by the year, make, model and style of vehicle. Parts may be different for coupes, sedans, or hatchbacks of the same model.

2

Consult your owners manual as to how to disable your air bags. For many cars, this involves pointing both front tires forward and removing the negative cable from the vehicles battery. Wait a couple of minutes before continuing the task. You should allow the residual power within the vehicle to expire. Defer to the disarming process specific to your vehicle.

3

Look at your steering wheel. If it is adjustable, move it to its lowest setting.

4

Examine the instrument cluster bezel; this is the molded plastic formed around the cluster. Also, examine the trim panels around them. This may include the coverings around the steering wheel, the panel just below the instrument cluster, and some of the panels underneath the dash. You need to figure out how all the panels fit together and which panel should be removed first.

5

Remove the first panel. In many cases, this can either be the steering wheel shaft cover or even some of the lower kick panels beneath the dash. Look for screws first, and if you find them, remove them. If you do not find any, insert a flat-head screwdriver wrapped in tape at the edge of the panel; the tape is used to avert scratching the panel. Pry up the panel slowly and carefully. Many panels are held in place by retaining clips and can be popped loose.

6

Remove the next component; in many cases, this is the trim panel directly beneath the instrument cluster.

7

Press the instrument cluster bezel with both hands. Some bezels can be disengaged from their retaining clips in this manner. Other bezels can be pulled off with your hands and some can be pried off. Remove the bezel.

8

Search for screws in the instrument cluster. They will be along the bottom, top and sides of the cluster. Remove them with a screwdriver and the appropriate screw tip.

9

Push the cluster inward in case it is held in place by additional retaining clips.

10

Work your fingers around the edges of the cluster and slowly pull forward. If the cluster does not budge, you probably missed a screw. Gently pull the cluster toward you. Once it is out of the dash, detach all wiring connectors.

11

Attach all the wiring connectors to the new instrument cluster and place it back into your dashboard. Refer to notes you took while removing the cluster and follow that process in reverse.

First produced in 1968, the Ford 460 used a pair of one-piece exhaust manifolds to direct the engines exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes. Between the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold is a gasket designed to prevent exhaust leaks. When the gasket fails, often a puffing sound can be heard as the exhaust gases leak out of the manifold. More often than not, however, the first indication of a manifold leak is the strong odor of dangerous exhaust gases inside the vehicle. For this reason, a new gasket should be installed immediately.

Instructions

1

Remove the exhaust manifolds securing nuts or bolts with a socket wrench and with an open-end wrench. Although the design of the 460s exhaust manifold remained the same throughout its production, there were variations of its fasteners. Some manifolds used only retaining bolts, while others instead featured studs and nuts. With either design, both types of wrenches are necessary to remove the fasteners. Use the open-end wrench to access the fasteners that the socket wrench cannot access.

2

Pull the exhaust manifold off the cylinder head to access the manifolds gasket. Tap on the bottom of the manifold with a rubber mallet to dislodge it if the manifold is stuck.

3

Peel the exhaust manifold gasket off of either the cylinder head or the manifold, depending on which surface the gasket adhered to. The portion of the gasket which failed can be identified by a black burn mark.

4

Position a new exhaust-manifold gasket onto the manifold or, if the engine instead features studs, slide the gasket onto the studs and against the cylinder head. The 460s exhaust-manifold gasket is self-sealing, meaning that gasket sealant must not be applied to the gasket.

5

Place the exhaust manifold against the cylinder head, then tighten the exhaust manifolds fasteners to between 30 and 35 ft-lbs. of torque with a torque wrench.

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve in your Ford Explorer is an exhaust regulating device attached to the intake manifold of the engine. It was first introduced to the United States in the 1960s and has continued to progress in improving fuel efficiency and reducing smog. It works by allowing small measured amounts of exhaust to enter the combustion chamber (pistons), thus reducing the temperature in the chamber. A malfunctioning EGR valve remains open and causes the temperature in the pistons to increase, allowing nitrogen oxide (smog forming emissions) to enter the atmosphere. Replacing the EGR valve in the Ford Explorer is a moderately easy repair to perform.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood and locate the EGR valve, which is attached to the right rear on the intake manifold near the firewall. The intake manifold is attached to the side of the engine block.

2

Disconnect the single-prong terminal electrical connection that plugs into the EGR valve sensor. Detach the black rubber vacuum tube which plugs into the EGR valve. Inspect the tube and electrical connection for cracking and excessive wear. Replace these parts as necessary.

3

Take out the two mounting bolts located on the top and bottom sides of the valve. Detach the old valve from the manifold and gently tap it using a hammer to break the seal. Scrape off the old gasket using a paint scraper, being careful not to allow any debris to enter the manifold.

4

Apply a thin coat of gasket adhesive to the new gasket using your finger and place it onto the manifold. Make sure the bolt holes are properly aligned so that the new EGR valve will seat properly.

5

Insert the new replacement EGR valve into the manifold opening being careful not to damage the EGR valve sensor attached on the top of the EGR valve. Secure the replacement EGR valve in place using the two bolts and reattach the single-prong terminal wire.

6

Disconnect the battery and wait 4-6 hours to reset the check engine light indicator. Reconnect the battery and see if the check engine light comes on again.

The 1995 Buick Century was available in Special, Custom and Limited editions, each equipped with front-wheel drive and an automatic transmission. Regardless of the type of Century you own, problems can occur during ownership such as overheating, power steering going out and issues with tires and brakes. You can troubleshoot your vehicle to find the problem and save you a lot of money.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the car while the engine is running and listen for the sound of the fan(s) running. This is an indication of the engine overheating.

2

Turn the engine off and check the fluid level in your coolant. Wait until the car cools down as it is easy to burn yourself when checking fluid levels of a hot engine. If the coolant is low, refill to the "Full Hot" coolant line. If you notice the fluid leaking, this can indicate a possible leak in your radiator hoses, heater hoses, water pump or another part of the cooling system.

3

Remove the dipstick from the power steering compartment while the engine is off. The power steering compartment is located on the passenger side of the engine. Wipe the dipstick with a clean rag and reinsert. If the fluid level is below the "C" mark you may experience difficulty with the power steering. Add fluid and recheck to verify you have added the right amount.

4

Inspect your tires to see if there are any bulges, cracks or splits in the tire. Check the treadwear of your tires to determine if you need to replace them. Poor tire conditions can lead to flat tires. Also, the cord or fabric inside the tire should not be showing through the rubber.

5

Listen for a high-pitched sound while driving and whether it stops when you press on the brakes. This may be an indication that your brake pads are worn. Unless you are skilled in brake repair, take your car to a repair shop for inspection and possible brake replacement. It is a good idea to have your front and rear brakes checked at the same time.

Outboard tilt-trim oil provides rust protection for engines in the marine industry. For long periods of time, marine engines function under high loads and rotations per minute (RPMs), which causes automotive oils to break down and lose viscosity or ease of flow. For this reason, marine manufacturers produce manuals for owners of outboard motors which recommend specific oil types -- automotive oil with SAE 30 or SAE 10W30 specification, transmission fluid type F, Dextron Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) or power tilt trim fluid by sayaC company. sayaC is a manufacturer of marine engine manifolds, parts and gaskets.

SAE 10W30 Automotive Oil

A substitute for outboard tilt-trim oil is automotive oil with SAE 10W30 specification. For example, it is recommended that you use SAE 10W30 oil in older Mercruiser brand trim pumps. Amsoil brand SAE 10W-30 Formula Four-Stroke Synthetic Motor Oil can satisfy warranty requirements of four-stroke outboard motor manufacturers such as Bombardier/BRP, Evinrude, Honda, Johnson, Mercury, Nissan, Suzuki, Tohatsu and Yamaha. Use SAE 10W30 ouboard motor oil whenever an owners manual specifies SAE 5W30, 10W30 or straight SAE 30. Mobil 1 brand 10W30 is also another option.

Transmission Fluid Type F

Transmission fluid type F is a substitute that can be used for outboard motor tilt-and-trim oil. Automatic transmission fluid has a high amount of detergent in it, so be sure to check your owners manual.

Dextron ATF

Dextron ATF is a good substitute for outboard tilt and trim oil, especially since the tilt-trim unit is a hydraulic system. As a substitute, Penzoil company has a marine tilt-and-trim hydraulic fluid that can be used for power steering and tilt-and-trim systems. In addition, Penzoil has a marine outboard gear lube, though it recommends Penzoil ATF for Johnson and Evinrude electric shift models for 1972 and earlier and sayaC Stern Drive models dated before 1977.

SAE 5W or 10W

Use SAE5W or SAE10W instead of quicksilver fluid for Mercruiser trim pumps. Other substitutes to quicksilver include chainsaw oil and sewing machine oil. Do not use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) for Mercruiser trim pumps, because the material used for the seals on its trim pump system is not compatible with either ATF or brake fluid.

Old Remedies

In the 1970s, 30 weight nondetergent motor oil was used as a substitute for outboard motor tilt-and-trim oil.

A catalytic converter helps to remove certain pollutants from the car exhaust, rather than releasing those pollutants into the air. The catalytic converter sits in the car exhaust system, behind the exhaust headers and before the car muffler. Normally, a catalytic converter will last the life of a vehicle, unless an underlying problem causes it to fail.

Emissions Test Failure

A failed catalytic converter that has not clogged can contribute to an increase in hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide exiting the car tailpipe. Normally, the catalytic converter will reduce the amount of these pollutants to extremely low levels. An increase in these pollutants in the car exhaust can also be caused by a faulty air pump, pulse air system or another component of the car air supply.

Fuel Mileage

A catalytic converter that has plugged up will create excessive back pressure in the car exhaust system. This back pressure increase can affect the car fuel mileage, meaning the car will not be able to drive as far under the same conditions with the same amount of gas. The plugged catalytic converter causes the car to work harder to maintain performance, meaning the car engine will burn more fuel than it would if it had a properly functioning catalytic converter.

Engine Power

A plugged catalytic converter can also reduce the car power at high speeds, such as when the car is driving on the freeway. The driver may notice the car cannot pass other vehicles on the road at freeway speeds as it once did. A driver may also notice that, once the car hits a certain speed, its acceleration becomes sluggish. A plugged converter can also cause the car to idle rough, meaning the engine will sputter or fluctuate in its RPMs. The failed catalytic converter can also cause the car to have trouble starting, causing the engine to stumble or stall upon starting.

Due to environmental and operational factors, automotive exhaust systems degrade over time and may require repair. While some elements of an exhaust are expensive and difficult or impossible to repair on your own, many common exhaust problems can be easily and effectively repaired by a shop or owner.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle on jack stands, using a hydraulic jack. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (always a safe precaution when working on a car).

2

Examine the exhaust to identify the failure point once the vehicle is on jack stands. Make sure the exhaust is cold as once an exhaust warms up, it may mask a leak. Use a bottle of soapy water if needed to help find a leak. Spray down a suspected area liberally and watch to see bubbles or other signs of escaping gas.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold if you discover that it is leaking. Spray down the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold with penetrating oil and allow to sit for at least 20 minutes. Remove the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the downstream exhaust pipe or catalytic converter. Then remove the bolts connecting the manifold to the engine block. Once removed inspect the manifold for leaks. If there is a crack in the manifold, it should be replaced, or taken to an exhaust shop to be repaired. If the gasket is burnt or torn, then replace with a new gasket and re-install.

4

Patch the muffler with an exhaust patch kit if you discover that the muffler has been damaged. Patch kits typically will be a metal tape with an adhesive backing that can be applied directly over the damaged section.

5

Broken hangers can be repaired if a broken hanger is causing the exhaust to hang or drag. An exhaust shop can repair the broken hanger, or you can use a generic exhaust clamp kit that will clamp around the exhaust pipe and thus support the muffler.

Hydraulic motors utilize fluid pressure in the operation of the mechanical loads. (See Reference 1) Hydraulic motors are unable to function separately from a circuit, pump, valves, filters, hoses, metal tubing and other hydraulic components. There are three major types of hydraulic motors that each operate within this same capacity but are unique in their own respects.

Gear motors

Gear motors come in two types, internal and external. Internal gear motors generally are constructed of an output shaft and an inner-outer gear set. (See Reference 2) The outer gear has an additional tooth compared to the inner gear, and the shape of these teeth makes it so the two gears are constantly in contact with one another. Motor housings for the motors have kidney-shaped inlet and outlet ports. In addition, the center rotations of both gears are separated by a predetermined amount called the eccentricity. In this design, the center of the output shaft and the inner gear are located in the same place. (see Reference 2) In contrast to the internal design, external gear motors are constructed of matched gears contained within a single housing. A similar tooth formation is seen in both gears and propelled by fluid pressure, with one gear connected to an output shaft and the other an idler. The force of the pressure fluid creates the rotation of the gears along the outside of the housing, and the fluid flows at a low pressure from the other side of the motor. (See Reference 2)

Vane motors

Vane motors are constructed of a slotted rotor affixed to the drive shaft, which is then operated through the rotor. (See Reference 2) The vanes move in a radial direction to seal the cam ring. This ring, with dual major and minor sections, is connected by transitional ramps or sections. Grooves and holes in the vanes are used to provide balance to the radial forces throughout the operation of the motor. (See Reference 2)

Piston

There are two types of piston motors, axial and radial piston motors. With the axial piston motor, the cylinders are in a 360-degree circle and are parallel to one another. (See Reference 1) Each individual cylinder contains a piston that "reciprocates with one end of the piston pushing against an eccentric swash-plate located at one end of the bank of cylinders." (See Reference 1) Through this arrangement of cylinders, the plate is connected to an output shaft that is "axially aligned with the cylinders." (See Reference 1) Generally seen in cylindrical hydraulic motors, axial piston motors are largely meant for compact designs. Radial piston motors are defined by the arrangement of the pistons on cams alongside the camshaft that is then attached to the output shaft. Using a reciprocal movement, the pistons create a rotary motion to the variant shafts to create power. Radial piston hydraulic motors are often seen in vehicle and airplane engines but are additionally useful in large equipment such as forklifts.

There are two types of gear lube to use in your Chevrolet, conventional lube and synthetic lube. Synthetic lube is more expensive than conventional oil but it improves fuel mileage. Gear lube may need to be changed if it becomes contaminated by metal debris. The technical name for a vehicles "rear end" is the rear differential. The rear-end grease, which is extremely thick, is called gear lube.

Instructions

1

Raise the Chevrolets wheels off the ground. Spot two blocks, one behind each rear wheel, to prevent the vehicle from rolling.

2

Place a floor jack under the center of the front cross member. Lift the front of the Chevy off the ground. Insert two jack stands, one under each side of the frame close to the wheels. Lower the jack.

3

Position the floor jack under the center of the rear differential. Lift the rear of the car off the ground. Set two jack stands, one under each axle tube. Lower the jack.

4

Place a ground mat or a piece of cardboard under the vehicle. Position the oil pan under the center of the rear differential. Locate the bottom drain plug. Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar into the plug socket and remove it. Some rear differentials must be drained by removing the cover. Remove the bolts in the cover and drain the oil.

5

Replace the gear lube. Reinstall the drain plug in the bottom of the differential and tighten it. If you drained the oil, replace the cover and install a new gasket if needed.

6

Locate and remove the level plug. Its found near the horizontal line of the rear differential.

7

Refill the gear lube through the level hole. Fill until oil runs out of the hole. Use the manufacturers recommended oil.

8

Replace and tighten the level fill plug.

9

Position the jack under the center of the rear differential. Jack the vehicle off the stands and place it on the ground.

The 1990 Ford F-350 truck was available with three engines: a 5.8L Windsor engine, a 7.3L engine, a 7.5L engine, and a 4.9L engine. The 5.8L engine, like the others, comes with a throttle position sensor, also called a TPS. The throttle position sensor helps to regulate the trucks idle. If its faulty, the idle may be high, low, or otherwise irregular. Removing the old TPS and installing a new one shouldnt take you longer than 15 minutes.

Instructions

1

Turn off the F-350s engine. Gather your tools and replacement throttle position sensor.

2

Open the F-350s hood to view the 5.8L engine. Move to the passenger side of the engine compartment. Look in the center, behind the intake manifold, right next to the area the large black air hose comes from. Youll see the throttle position sensor mounted next to the air hose. The sensor looks similar to a capital "T." The top part of it is wide. The bottom part (the connector) is thin. It is a black plastic piece.

3

Push the tab on the TPS electrical connection and unplug it from the sensor. The connection is attached to the thin part of the throttle position sensor.

4

Remove the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Carefully pull the TPS away from its mount.

5

Insert and seat the new throttle position sensor in its mount. Insert and tighten the two screws. Plug in the electrical connection. Shut the hood.

Most states in the U.S. require that vehicles undergo emissions or smog testing. These tests measure the amount of pollutants vehicles expel into the air and identify those vehicles that need to be fixed before they can be driven again. Emissions tests include the tailpipe test, which measures the amount of nitric oxide, carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons emitted. Within the tailpipe section of your test results youll see "HC PPM," which refers to the hydrocarbon amounts.

Instructions

1

Locate the tailpipe section of your emissions test results.

2

Find "HC PPM" within the tailpipe section. You read this as hydrocarbon parts per million, and it means the number of hydrocarbon molecules for every million molecules emitted through the exhaust.

3

Determine whether you pass or fail the HC PPM part of the test. The number of hydrocarbons allowed varies from state to state, but generally for vehicles made after 1994, your vehicle will need an HC PPM reading of below 50.

4

Interpret the HC PPM reading. If you fail the HC PPM part of the test, it could mean that there is a problem with the carburetor, fuel injection system or oxygen sensor, or that the engine oil is diluted or the air cleaner is dirty.

An illuminated traction control light in a 2001 Jaguar 4.0 is an indication that the ABS computer detects a problem with the traction control or anti-lock braking system. This could represent a current problem or a previous problem that has yet to be cleared from the ABS computers memory. An illuminated traction control light will remain on until the ABS computers memory is cleared and reset. In order to clear the computers memory and turn off the traction control light, a connection must be established between the ABS computer and an automotive scan tool. Once a connection is established, the memory can be cleared and the light will turn off automatically.

Instructions

1

Rotate the ignition switch to the OFF position in order to turn off the engine.

2

Locate the Jaguars diagnostic communications interface port, or DCIP. The DCIP is mounted just out of side, underneath the dashboard, below the steering wheel. The port has 16 connection pins and is the male end that connects to the female end of the scan tool.

3

Connect the female end of the scan tool to the male DCIP and turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then power on the scan tool.

4

Enter the make, model and year of your vehicle when prompted by the scan tool. Search the menus using the navigation keys on the scan tool and enter the ABS computer menu. Choose the option to read the trouble codes from the ABS computers memory. Write down the trouble codes that display on the screen. These alphanumeric codes have a very high diagnostic value and can explain why the code was triggered, should the light re-illuminate once the codes are cleared.

5

Choose the option to clear the codes from the computers memory. Once the memory is clear, the scan tool will indicate this on the main screen. Disconnect the tool and start the Jaguars engine. Confirm that the traction control light is now off.

The 1982 Chevrolet Camaro rear differential has a pinion bearing located in the very front of the differential, where the driveshaft connects to the pinion yoke. The gear lube is held in at the pinion bearing with a pinion seal. Due to the tremendous stress placed on the pinion seal, its not a matter of if it fails, but when. Once it does and you have a leak, you should replace the seal immediately to avoid damaging the rear end gears. Any Camaro owner with a solid grip on auto repair can handle this job in around an hour.

Instructions

1

Drive the back tires of the Camaro onto the car ramps, then set the parking brake. Slide the drain pan under the front of the Camaros rear differential, centered under the union between the driveshaft and differential. Place the jack stand on the other side of the driveshaft from your position, about 6 inches away from the end of the driveshaft toward the other side of the Camaro.

2

Unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion yoke with the socket set. Hold the U-joint firmly in place, and wrap electrical tape around its perimeter to keep the U-joint caps from coming off. Rest the end of the driveshaft on the jack stand so it doesnt pull loose from the transmission.

3

Slide the pinion yoke out of the driveshaft by hand, and set it aside. Remove the old pinion seal with the seal puller, which you can buy at your local auto parts store if you dont have one.

4

Align the Camaros new pinion seal with the pinion opening in the Camaros differential. Place the 2-inch socket over the seal until the sidewalls of the socket line up with the edges of the seal. Tap the end of the socket with a rubber mallet so it drives the socket against the seal, which in turn drives the seal into the differential.

5

Slide the pinion yoke into the differential by hand. Bolt the driveshaft end to the pinion yoke after removing the electrical tape. Move the drain pan and jack stand before driving the Camaro off the ramps.

The fender vent on any vehicle is simply cosmetic. Mechanically, these vents do not serve a purpose on your vehicle. If you would like to install a new fender vent, you can do it with little hassle and minimal knowledge of the automobile. If you do remove the fender vent and do not replace it, you will leave holes in the fender and the vehicle will look like it is missing something. Since this is a stick-on piece, you have a limited time frame and getting it level before the adhesive becomes hard.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in a well lit area so the back fender is getting enough light. Turn off the automobile so there is no chance of it moving while you are working on it.

2

Use a plastic wedge to get between the fender and the edge of the vent. If you use a flathead screwdriver, you could scratch the paint.

3

Edge your way around the vent until you loosen it from the adhesive. Pull the vent off of the fender.

4

Add the adhesive to the new fender vent. Make sure that you are not using too much adhesive as it will come out the sides of the vent and adhere to the fender creating a mess.

5

Apply the vent to the fender in the same position as your last vent. Back up after the vent has been installed. Correct any crookedness to the vent, if needed.

6

Use a rag to wipe up any excess adhesive coming off of the vent.

Battery chargers perform a fairly simple task: convert alternating-current power to direct-current and transfer that energy to a battery. But this is a multidimensional challenge, since household current is 115 volts and upward of 200 amps, while the battery itself only needs 12 to 14 volts and 2 to 10 amps. The chargers control system is similar to that of an automotive alternator, but the control strategy varies by manufacturer and unit quality.

Ohms Law

Ohms Law got its name from Georg Ohm, the 18th century German physicist who defined electrical resistance as we know it today. Using the electrochemical cell pioneered by Italian count Assandro Volta (guess what got his name), Ohm quantified the proportional difference between voltage applied to a conductor and the resultant electrical current. The difference (or loss) within the circuit is its resistance in Ohms. Ohms basic law states that current in amperes flowing through a conductor equals the voltage applied across the circuit divided by its resistance in Ohms. In mathematical shorthand, the formula is " I = V / R", where "I" equals current in amperes, "V" equals volts and "R" equals resistance in ohms.

Consequences of Varying Resistance

Installing a resistor in-line between a power source and an accessory does have consequences. The First Law of Thermodynamics states that energy can never appear or disappear; it can only change forms. If you install an electric motor into an electrical circuit, the electrical energy turns into kinetic energy (movement); install a light bulb and the electrical energy turns into light. But not all of that energy will convert completely; a certain amount of it will get "stuck" in the devices internal resistance and bounce around to produce heat. If you increase resistance in the circuit by installing a higher-resistance material such as graphite or ceramic, the excess current will vibrate around in the material and cause it to heat up.

Varying Load

The other way to limit amperage through a circuit is to limit its amp draw, or the load that its physically capable of pulling without a resistor in line. The tiny motor in your electric razor blade will only draw a few milli-amps regardless of whether you connect it to a triple-A battery or a nuclear reactor. Thats because the diameter of the wires in the motor will only pass a certain amount of current. You can think of the wiring diameter as a hole in a bucket of water; a bigger hole will pass more water and a smaller one will pass less. You can shove more water through by increasing the water pressure (similar to increasing voltage in the electrical circuit), but the big hole will always flow more at a given pressure.

Battery Charger Strategy

Battery chargers will typically use either a load-varying approach or a combination of load-varying and resistance-varying. A high-quality charger will use multiple circuits with varying load draws to transfer power from the input to the output. When you flip the switch from a 10-amp quick-charge to a 2-amp trickle-charge, the charger will switch to a lower-draw circuit. Cheap chargers will typically use a calibrated circuit to maintain the maximum 10-amp quick-charge; flipping the switch to a 2-amp trickle-charge will re-route power through a higher resistance diode or resistor that absorbs the additional 8 amps, which is why cheap chargers will typically get far hotter under trickle charge than more expensive ones. This heat both reduces component life and wastes electricity.

Maybe youve lost the key to your Honda Prelude, your key no longer works correctly or you just want to have a spare key on hand. Obtaining a new car key, even for an older model vehicle, is not difficult. Honda vehicles are equipped with key codes that are personalized for each individual vehicle. As long as you can provide the vehicle identification number (VIN), which contains the key code for your 1990 Prelude, to a professional key maker, you can obtain a new key.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) on your 1990 Honda Prelude. You can find this number in the original purchase paperwork, on the title or on your insurance information. It is also located on the doorjamb on the drivers side and is visible only when the door is open.

2

Call your local Honda service department or a professional locksmith to order a new car key. If you call Honda, you will have to pick up your key when it is ready whereas a locksmith might come to you.

3

Provide your VIN to the Honda service department or locksmith. This number will allow the service technician or locksmith to read the key code for your car and cut the key correctly.

4

Provide proof that you are the owner of the vehicle for which you are requesting a new key. You will need to show the Honda service department or the locksmith your photo identification and proof of ownership such as the vehicle registration, insurance card, or purchase paperwork with your name on it. You can then pay for your new key.

Compressed air is useful for many things. It can pump up flat tires, run a variety of air tools, or simply be used to clean a bit of dirt out of a crevice. In order to create and use compressed air you need to have a commercial air compressor or an air tank. If you have an air-tank equipped with a pressure gauge and Schrader valve you can easily fill it up with a bike pump.

Instructions

1

Press the bike pump connection onto the Schrader valve located near the top of the air tank. It will be an approximately 3/8 inch metal threaded tube with a small pin in the center.

2

Pump up the tank while keeping an eye on the tank air valve. After several dozen pumps you should start to see some air pressure registered. Continue this action until the tank reads about 20 pounds of pressure.

3

Remove the bike pump nozzle and use the tire gauge to verify the pressure for safety. Once it is verified, continue pumping to your desired pressure.

You can pull a code from your 97 Chevy S10 Blazer right in your garage, saving yourself money and time. The Blazer comes equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer (OBD-II). This computer retrieves and stores all trouble codes it receives from various sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. The Blazers computer turns on warning or service lights on the instrument panel to alert you to the malfunction. You can pull these codes from the computer using a small, handheld device called an OBD-II code scanner. You can buy this online or at any auto-parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Find the diagnostic port on the drivers-side dash under the steering column. Its the same size and shape as code scanners connective end.

2

Plug the code scanner into this diagnostic port. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position. Dont crank the engine.

3

Wait while the scanner turns on. Select the command "Retrieve Codes" -- the command may be somewhat different, depending on scanner brand. Wait for the code scanner to display the codes on its face and then write the codes down on a piece of paper.

4

Find the meaning of the codes in the scanners manual. Unplug the scanner and take the vehicle to be serviced or repaired.

A blown engine can either be a nightmare of epic proportions or a fairly simple weekend project--the difference comes down to knowledge and preparation. Think of your engine disassembly as an autopsy and dont take anything at face value. Stay vigilant for cascading, cause-and-effect failures and expect to spend twice what you think you will. A "blown" engine can be the result of anything, from a simple head gasket failure to a crankshaft snapped in two, so dont buy any new parts until you know whats going on with the engine.

Instructions

1

Diagnose the engine during teardown, taking it slowly and staying organized. Remove the valve covers and intake manifold, checking for debris in the oil and broken valve springs/valve train components. Remove the cylinder heads and examine the piston tops and combustion chamber roofs for signs of oil leakage, water leakage and melted components.

2

Check for cracks in the heads, the combustion chamber and deck surface, the piston tops and cylinder bores and the engine block deck surface. This is just a preliminary check. If you dont see anything wrong, dont assume that the engine is fine; be prepared to take it to a machine shop to have the block and heads magnafluxed to check for cracks invisible to the naked eye. This is especially crucial if the engine blew from overheating.

3

Remove the crankshaft, rods and pistons. Pay close attention to the bearing surfaces, checking for signs of gouging.

4

Send the block to the machine shop to have the crankshaft, bearing bores, cylinders, engine block and cylinder head deck surfaces machined to factory specs. Order whatever new parts you need, including over-sized pistons, rings and bearings.

5

Install the new piston rings onto the pistons. Install the crankshaft bearings into the block, followed by the crankshaft itself, rod bearings then the pistons and connecting rods. Pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly, then install it and the oil pan.

6

Insert the new head gaskets and bolt the heads onto the block. Slide the new camshaft lifter in place. Install the camshaft either into the block or onto the cylinder heads and then install the valve train onto the heads. Install the intake manifold gaskets, intake manifold, exhaust manifold gasket, exhaust manifold, valve cover gaskets and valve cover(s).

7

Fill the engine with oil then use a drill and priming shaft to prime the oil pump. For many engines, the oil pump drive shaft is accessible through the distributor hole. Have an assistant manually turn the crankshaft with a large wrench while you prime. Once you see oil pushing through the valve train, the engine is ready to install and fire up.

Car ramps are simple devices that allow a person to get under a car to complete maintenance and repairs. While ramps are easy to use, improper use can cause serious injury and death.

Use Proper Ramps

Before driving a vehicle onto a ramp, the driver needs to make certain that the ramps are rated for the load that will be placed on them. Also, the vehicles tires should fit properly onto the ramp. Tires that bulge over the side may make the ramps unstable.

Test for Stability

Once the vehicle is on the ramps, gently rock the car to each side to make certain the ramps are stable. If an end or side of the ramp lifts off the ground while the car is being rocked, the weight of the vehicle is not properly placed on the ramps.

Chock the Wheels

Wheel chocks are wedge-shaped devices that prevent the car from rolling off the ramps. Place the chocks behind the wheels that are not on the ramp. Drivers should also make certain that the wheel chocks are rated for the weight that they are being used to hold.

You can adjust the rear drum brakes on your Saturn right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. You should adjust the rear brakes periodically to keep them in the best working condition. As you use your brakes, they wear down a bit causing a space between the shoes and the drum. To close up this space, you need to do an adjustment with a few basic tools you can purchase from your local auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Disengage the parking brake. Place a wheel chock behind each of the Saturns front wheels to keep the vehicle from accidentally moving while you work.

2

Lift up the rear of the car with a floor jack, high enough to slide the jack stands underneath the car next to each control arm by the wheels. Slide the jack stands into place and lower the car onto them.

3

Put on a respirator mask, which you can purchase from any hardware store, to protect yourself from brake pad dust. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Take off the wheel and set it aside with the lug nuts.

4

Twist off the drums clockwise. If they are stuck, strike them with a hammer gently and twist again.

5

Locate the star-shaped self-adjuster under the wheel cylinder. Spread the shoes open a bit by turning the self-adjuster. Slip the drums back onto the shoes. They should slide on easily if you did the adjustment correctly.

6

Put the wheels back on the Saturn and tighten the lug nuts. Lift up the car with the jack and slide the jack stands out. Lower the car to the ground. Lift up on the parking brake, which should only move up six notches maximum.

7

Tighten the lug nuts all the way with the lug wrench and remove the wheel chocks.

Edmunds ranked the Honda Odyssey as the best minivan on the market for several years straight as of 2011. Like most vehicles, its ignition switch has four positions: lock, accessory, on and start. With the switch in either of the first two positions, its not possible to move the shift lever out of "park." If the switch is not in those two positions and the lever still wont budge, the Odyssey owners manual details a shift-lock release procedure to manually disable the pin holding the lever up.

Instructions

1

Ensure the driver tried to follow all the usual procedures for moving the shifter lever out of park. These steps include the simultaneous actions of placing the ignition switch to the "on" or "start" positions, depressing the brake pedal and depressing the release button on the side of the shifter. If the normal process is unsuccessful, continue with the following steps.

2

Pull up the parking brake.

3

Take the key out of the ignition switch.

4

Put a small cloth over the notch for the small shift-lock release panel, located next to the "P" on the shifter. Use a screwdriver to pry on the notch to remove the little panel.

5

Slide the ignition key into the uncovered slot. Push down on it while depressing the shifter release button and slide the shifter to the "neutral" position.

6

Remove the key and reinstall the small panel, ensuring the notch is on the left side.

7

Depress the brake pedal and start the engine normally.

Introduced in 1991, the Lexus GS entered the midsized luxury sedan market and competed directly with models such as the Mercedes C-Class and the BMW 5-Series. While competing with prominent German made automobiles, Lexus inherited the respect attained from Toyota. Though the 2001 Lexus GS300 is a luxury sedan, it does succumb to the same problems inherent in other automobiles through regular wear and tear. Even with regular maintenance on a 2001 Lexus GS300 problems can arise that would have an out-of-pocket expense if a warranty plan is not available.

Instructions

1

Check both the air filter and fuel filter if your Lexus GS300 engine has difficulty starting. A dirty or clogged air filter or fuel filter can easily be replaced and may not only correct an engine start problem but will also increase fuel efficiency.

2

Inspect the power steering belt in your 2001 Lexus GS300 if you experience difficulty when turning the steering wheel. Power steering belts wear down over time and eventually must be replaced.

3

Inspect the heating core of your Lexus GS300 if a rank odor can be smelled while sitting in your vehicle. Mold and mildew can form from an antifreeze or coolant leak that deposits into the floorboard of your 2001 Lexus GS300.

4

Inspect the distributor cap of your Lexus vehicle if you experience a loss of power while driving. The distributor cap is a device in the engine that manages the wires from the ignition to spark plugs. The distributor cap may be loose, worn out or otherwise damaged, which leads to the spark plugs misfiring, firing out of sequence or not firing at all.

5

Inspect your Lexus GS300s carburetor if the engine undergoes stalling problems while driving. The carburetor may be improperly positioned, dirty, faulty or simply worn out. If the carburetor is dirty, it does not necessarily have to be replaced but can be cleaned instead.

Sometimes a gasket seal needs a little extra reinforcement. This is where gasket sealer comes in, as it gives an extra sealing capacity to a gasket after it has been applied.

Sealer Features

When using a gasket sealer on a gasket, it starts off in the form of a liquid. However, after it is applied it changes form. Although it completely goes from liquid to become solid in form, it still maintains a level of flexibility.

Sealer Types

Any metal surface that has areas within it that need sealing, such as pores, can benefit from gasket sealer. There are many available types of gasket sealer on the market today, such as liquid silicone. Hylomar and Permatex are two other kinds of gasket sealer that are fairly common.

Sealer Use

A gasket sealer can be used on cars with caution, as it is not for all types of gaskets. A coated head gasket should never have gasket sealer applied to it. Gasket sealer should only be used on non-coated steel gaskets.

Inoperative headlights are often ticketed on sight by law enforcement agencies. Even worse, accidents can occur when headlights fail at an inopportune moment during nighttime driving. If your headlight switch feels loose or wobbly when activated, it is time to change the switch to a new unit that is dependable and unlikely to fail.

Instructions

1

Ascertain the headlight switch is broken or in poor condition by repeatedly testing its operation. With the key in the cars ignition and switched on, rapidly activate the switch. The headlights should immediately turn on with no delay or hesitation. The switch should have a solid feel to it, and you should be able to tell when the switch is on or off just by feel as the switch snaps or pops into the correct position.

2

Look for tell-tale signs that the switch is worn out; common symptoms of a worn switch include any slight hesitation before the lights turn on, less than 100 percent success control of the headlights when rapidly turning the switch on/off repeatedly, inability for you to tell if the lights should be on by simply looking at the physical position of the light switch, flickering of the headlights when the switch is move to and from any position.

3

Replace the switch if you notice symptoms of a worn or failing switch. Purchase a complete headlight switch kit that is compatible with your vehicle. Most automotive stores have compatibility charts that identify headlight switch kits that will work for your year make and model vehicle.

4

Disconnect the negative battery cable (black lead) that connects the car battery to the wiring harness. This can be accomplished by loosening the nut and bolt that holds it in place with a crescent wrench (see "Warnings").

5

Remove the knob and light switch simultaneously. There is often a release button that will allow you to do this. If you dont feel a release button (located under the dash board on the side of the switch) unscrew the bezel (round cover securing the switch to the dashboard). Do not try to force anything, just ascertain how the switch is held in place and remove it from the dashboard with the wiring in the rear of the switch still intact.

6

Open the replacement switch packaging and check to see if your new switch kit contains a bezel removal tool if you are having difficulty removing the old switch. Many aftermarket kits include this small tool with no mention made of this on the exterior of the switch packaging.

7

Remove the locking bezel, then gently pull the switch so that here is slack in the electrical wiring connected to the rear of the switch. In most vehicles, this means holding the old switch in an odd position beneath the dashboard. Note the position of the colored wires leading into the switch.

8

Remove the color coded wires from the old switch one wire at a time and insert them into the new switch. Most switch kits allow the old wires to simply plug in to the new switches. Take care to get them all color coded as they were on the old switch assembly. Gently insert the new headlight switch into its proper place within the dash console. As always, avoid performing this step with undue force. Doing so could lead to breaking the headlight switch or causing other damage to the vehicle.

9

Reconnect the battery negative terminal and tighten with a crescent wrench. Test the new switch in the same manner as you tested the old switch. You will see and feel a remarkable difference in the new switch performance. Replace any ornamental mounting trim as required.

Backfire flame arrestors serve a vital safety function on watercraft. They are legally required and must be Coast Guard approved on inboard and stern-drive boats that use gasoline engines. Engine compartments can build up gas vapors and fumes that can ignite with a stray spark or flame. Occasionally engines can backfire, sending a flame up through the carburetor and into the engine compartment. The backfire flame arrestors function requires it to muffle and delete any such spark or flame, which could result in an onboard explosion.

Backfire Flame Arrestor Contruction

The backfire flame arrestor has a solid metal construction very similar to the older style air cleaner housings on cars and trucks. Most of the casing shells have circular designs, whereas some can use oval or square configurations. They attach solidly to the upper lip of the carburetor throat via a clamp, and bolt from the top into the carburetor body. They possess an interior baffle grid that resists flame, oil and fuel contamination. The airtight seal and grid within the flame arrestor halts and dissipates backfire flames from the carburetor.

Backfire Flame Arrestor Concept

When fuel and air can sustain combustion, they have a flammability factor. The internal combustion engine uses this ignition to power the cylinders. When a backfire occurs, the combustion process temporarily changes direction and travels up through the air intake passage. Hydrocarbon molecules need space and oxygen to ignite and propagate. When they enter the flame arrestor as a result of a backfire, their travel speed is drastically reduced, held in check by striking the interior grid element. The confined space inside the flame arrestor does not allow enough oxygen to continue the burn. The renegade flame is snuffed before it can expand.

Noise Levels

Backfire flame arrestors reduce and muffle combustion noise to a lower level. Since the flame arrestor completely seals the intake portion of the engine, engine noise becomes trapped within the confines of the grid. A backfire, which can cause high level shockwave noise, gets dissipated instantly with a back-flow pressure. This confines and mutes the explosion.

Regulations

Backfire flame arrestors must be permanently installed on vessels that have stern-drive or inboard motors. Outboard motor and diesel engines need not use them. The flame arrestor must be in adequate and serviceable condition, as prescribed by the U.S. Coast Guard, Underwriters Laboratories. The flame arrestor can not have any holes in the grid surface, nor oil or raw gas in the grid compartment. It must be sealed tight against pressure escape. Flame arrestors need to be inspected regularly,cleaned with soap and water and then refitted for proper seal.

The 1999 Ford Expedition is built on an F150 platform. The Expedition uses a 9.75-inch rear axle. The axles are retained with C-clips at the end of the axle shaft, inside the differential carrier. The axle bearings are of the roller type. A failed axle bearing can manifest itself as a noise at the rear wheel or gear oil leaking past the oil seal. When replacing axle bearings, the oil seals must also be replaced.

Instructions

1

Park the Expedition on a flat, paved surface, and do not set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, then raise the rear of the Expedition with a jack, and support it with jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and rear wheels.

2

Remove the rear brake drums. For disc brakes, use a ratchet and socket to remove the lower caliper mounting bolt and loosen the upper bolt. Pivot the caliper up and away from the rotor. Remove the rotor.

3

Position a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts that hold on the carrier cover with a ratchet and socket. Catch the gear oil in the drain pan. Remove the old cover gasket, and use a gasket scraper to remove any material from the cover and the differential housing. Wipe both surfaces with a shop rag.

4

Examine the carrier assembly inside the housing, and youll see the large vertically mounted ring gear. Next to the ring gear, running through the carrier housing, you will see the pinion shaft. Rotate the carrier assembly until youre looking at the end of the shaft. It runs through holes in both sides of the carrier assembly. To the right of the shaft is a small bolt that screws into the carrier assembly and engages the end of the shaft. Place a large screwdriver between the differential housing and one of the bolts that holds the ring gear onto the carrier assembly. This is to prevent the carrier from turning when you remove the small bolt. Remove the bolt with a ratchet and socket.

5

Rotate the carrier assembly 180 degrees until youre looking at the hole on the other side of the carrier assembly that holds the pinion shaft. Slide the shaft out of the carrier assembly in this direction. Pull the shaft out until the stepped part of the shaft contacts the ring gear.

6

Push the outer end of the axle in toward the center of the differential housing. Move back under the Expedition; you will be able to see the end of the axle shaft. The axle shaft has a C-clip in a groove on the end of the axle. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully remove the clip. Remove the C-clip for the other axle in the same manner. Do not rotate the differential while the pinion shaft is pulled out. Slide the axles out of the end of the axle tubes.

7

Attach an axle bearing puller to a slide hammer. Insert the bearing puller through the center of the bearing. Using the slide hammer, extract the bearing and oil seal. Repeat for the other bearing and oil seal. Clean the end of the axle tube with a shop rag. Note that there is a small step inside the axle tube that the axle bearing seats against.

8

Tap the new bearing into the axle tube with a hammer and a socket the same size as the outside of the bearing. Seat the bearing against the step in the axle tube. Coat the rubber lip of the oil seal with gear oil. Use the same socket to tap the oil seal into the axle tube. Make sure the seal is flush with the end of the tube. Repeat for the other bearing and seal. Slide the axle into the axle tube far enough so you can reinstall the C-clip. After you install the clip, pull out on the axle to seat the clip in the recess in the small spider gear. Repeat for the other axle.

9

Push the pinion shaft back through the carrier. Put a couple of drops of non-hardening thread sealer on the pinion shaft bolt, and reinstall the bolt. Torque the bolt to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

10

Coat the gasket mounting surface on the differential cover and the gasket mounting surface on the differential housing with gasket sealer. Coat one side of a new differential cover gasket with gasket sealer and press the gasket onto the differential cover. Coat the other side of the gasket with gasket sealer, and position the cover onto the housing. Install the bolts, and tighten them until the cover is just seated against the housing. Moving in a crisscross pattern, torque the bolts 30 foot-pounds.

11

Remove the filler plug from the differential cover. Add 4 ounces of limited-slip friction modifier to the differential, then fill it with 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil. The differential is full when the gear oil reaches the bottom of the filler hole. Replace and tighten the filler plug.

12

Install the brake drum, or install the rotor and rotate the caliper back onto the rotor. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Mount the wheels, and install the lug nuts. Raise the Expedition and remove the jack stands. Lower the Expedition to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts. Test drive, and check for leaks.

Replacing a burnt-out bulb on your 2003 Honda Civic requires no tools or expert knowledge. Reference your owners manual for the specific replacement bulbs your vehicle requires.

Instructions

1

Remove the power steering fluid reservoir by pulling it up out of the holder. Set the reservoir on a stable surface to prevent the fluid from spilling. This step is only necessary on the drivers side headlamp.

2

Locate the bulb and connector plugged into the back. Remove the electrical plug by pressing on the sides of the plug and pulling straight back.

3

Remove the headlight weather seal by pulling the tab located at the top of the headlamp enclosure.

4

Release the bulb retaining wire by locating the clip and pulling it down and away from the bulb. Pull the bulb out of the headlight assembly.

5

Insert the new bulb into headlight assembly. Ensure the bulb is properly aligned with the slots of the headlamp. Swing the retaining clip up onto the bulb, securing it in place.

6

Replace the weather seal by inserting it onto the socket with the word "Top" facing up. Ensure the seal is properly seated by running your hand around the edge of the weather seal. Failure to seat the seal fully will allow water into the enclosure, causing damage.

7

Connect the electrical plug to the new bulb by pushing it straight on. To verify proper attachment of the electrical connector, turn on the headlamps and observe that both headlights work.

8

Reinstall the power steering reservoir on the drivers side and close the hood.

Over time, many things happen that cause old tools to work not quite as well as they once did. In the case of socket wrenches, this can easily happen. Frequently, something will happen to a wrench or socket that makes the handle and the socket stick together. This can be caused by bent or dented tools, temperature expansion or by grease, dirt or other substances getting into the tool. To keep your tools useful even as they age, you may need to know how to get a stuck socket and handle apart.

Instructions

1

Apply some WD-40 or other lubricant to the joint where the socket connects to the wrench.

2

Wrap a rag around the head and the shaft of the wrench so that you can get a good grip on both parts of the tool without your hand slipping. Pull the two pieces apart if you can.

3

Clamp the handle of the socket wrench carefully in a vise. Wrap the tool with several wraps with a rag if youre worried about scoring the tool in the jaws of the vise.

4

Tighten a crescent wrench or monkey wrench around the socket or use a pair of pliers to get a strong grip on it. Again, wrap it in fabric if youre worried about biting into the tool. Pull as hard as you can until you separate the tools.

5

Insert a thin-bladed flat head screwdriver in between the socket and the wrench and try to pry it off if nothing else has worked.

Nissan is a Japanese auto manufacturer. Until 2008, Nissans V6 engine had appeared in every single annual publication of "Wards 10 Best Engines." "Wards Auto World" magazine began publishing the list in 1995. If you are considering trading your engine for a Nissan engine or if you want to upgrade your existing Nissan engine, its smart to do a comparison to find which one is best for you. To effectively compare Nissan engines you need to have a set of comparison criteria.

Instructions

1

Decide what is most important to you in an engine. If youre upgrading or replacing a damaged engine, you should establish exactly what size of engine is suitable for your car. Take account of power and performance. For example, the 2002 3.5-liter Nissan Maxima is capable of delivering an impressive 255 horse power. Consider mileage, cubic capacity, age and weight. Putting a heavy engine in a small car can cause handling problems. The engines in Nissans VQ engine range are aluminum and are relatively light. Write down the three most important criteria for your engine comparison.

2

Discount engines that dont meet your criteria. If you are looking for a cheap replacement engine for an old Nissan, dont spend lots of money on a high-performance GTS engine. The 2.5-liter 2003 Nissan Altima and Nissan Sentra were recalled due to temperature fluctuations that caused the engines to shut down. Be wary of engines that have been subject to manufacturer recall.

3

Use impartial reviews and manufacturer specifications to supplement your comparisons. You should use your key criteria to make comparisons, but note any other beneficial features to help you decide between two similarly suitable engines. Something as simple as the location of the seller may be enough to swing the deal one way or the other.

4

Make a short list of three engine types that youve identified as suitable. Make your ranking process more precise by using a higher grading threshold for the criteria you determined most important: Rank each engine according to your three main criteria. Allow 1 to 20 points for each engine youre considerings proficiency in your top criterion. Allow 1 to 10 points for each engines proficiency in your second most important criterion, and allow 1 to 5 points each engines proficiency in the third.

5

Take account of the cars the engines were in previously. For example, Nissans SR20DET engine is used in various Nissan cars, including the DT Turbo, the Bluebird and the Silvia (these are Japanese versions of Nissan cars). An engine powering a lighter car will have less wear per mile than the same engine powering a larger car. Its the same method of operation you would use if you had two identical cars but one had been used to tow a trailer: You would dock points for engine wear on the engine that towed the trailer due to the extra weight the car pulled and the extra effort the engine exerted.

If you want to replace just the glass panel in the mirror on your 1996 Suburban, youll be happy to know that you do not have to remove the large plastic housing that bolts onto the side of the Chevys door. The glass panel, which is actually made of plastic, is secured to the small motor mounted inside the plastic mirror housing. This makes replacing just the glass panel easier since no tools are required to disconnect the mirror from the motor in the housing.

Instructions

1

Push one side of the Suburbans glass panel mirror into the mirror housing. If youre replacing the mirror on the drivers side, push the right side of the mirror into the housing. If youre replacing the passengers side mirror on the Suburban, push the left side of the mirror into the housing.

2

Grasp the side of the mirror sticking out of the housing and pull hard on it to remove it. The mirror has a long metal tab that sticks out of the back of it. This tab slides into a slot in the face of the motor located inside the mirror. As you pull on the mirror, the metal tab will slide out of the slot on the motor.

3

Place the metal tab of the new glass panel mirror into the slot on the face of the mirrors motor.

4

Push on the face of the mirror to push the metal tab into the slot. Once the mirror rests inside the housing, the mirror is in place.

Freon is a liquid/gaseous chemical compound commonly used in refrigerators, air conditioners, and freezers. Known by the chemical name chlorodifloromethane, it is a nontoxic and nonflammable material. Although freon does not burn at room temperature, it may combust when mixed with air (65 percent) at low pressure. Concentrations of chlorine may also induce combustion in chlorodifloromethane.

Thermal Decomposition

Freon poses a negligible fire hazard when it is directly exposed to heat or flames, but chlorides, fluorides, and phosgene are released as a result of the thermal decomposition of the gas. Notably, phosgene is a poisonous gas and poses a serious threat to health.

Car Fires

Freon is used as a refrigerant in car air conditioning systems, and older models have the R-12 variety of the gas. If such a car catches fire, it is important not to inhale the fumes because the R-12 will turn into phosgene (nerve gas), a lethal chemical.

Cylinder Explosion

Freon is compressed into self-pressure-releasing cylinders that may rupture because of extended exposure to fires over 900 degrees Celsius. Freon itself does not catch fire, but the cylinders containing the gas may explode if the fire is not controlled. This happens because of pressure buildup within the cylinders caused by the rise in surrounding temperature. The shards of a bursting cylinder pose a serious hazard.

Warning

Freon cylinders should be stored at room temperature to avoid accidental overheating of contents. If water is used for extinguishing a fire, it should be contained and neutralized before it is disposed. Use a self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) if the containers have leaked or have been damaged within an enclosed space. Inhaling freon poses a serious hazard to health, and exposure to higher concentrations of the gas can be fatal.

Emission problems can factor heavily into the selling of a car. These problems may prevent a sale in a state where a smog certificate is required. When you are selling a car with emission issues in states that do not require such certification, you can help facilitate a sale by making the necessary adjustments for the market. Use the emission problems to your advantage.

Instructions

1

Place a sales ad on a website like Craigslist. In the body of your ad, mention the cars emission problems directly. Include all details related to the emission troubles. If you are aware of the specific cause of the problem, add this information as a suggestion for repair. For example, if a faulty catalytic converter is causing the problem, state that it needs to be replaced.

2

Drop your asking price below the Kelley Blue Book value. Say, in your ad, that the emission problems are the reason for the lower price. Market your car as a good deal for any prospective buyers due to the lowered price. Be willing to negotiate. Include a section that cites the benefit purchasing a car with a fixable problem at a very good price--that the buyer could save money. Make sure that this is the case--that the price of the car and the repair are less than the value of the car. Remember that a car with a problem isnt likely to be attractive to buyers unless they can save money.

3

Disclose all emission issues to a prospective buyer who contacts you. Go over the information regarding the emission problems once again. He must agree to incur all responsibility regarding the problems. He must be aware of possible smog checks in the future, which he will be completely responsible for.

The Nissan Maxima is a full-size car marketed as a "four-door sports car." The 2002 Maxima has two main drive belts. One belt controls the alternator and the power steering pump. The other belt controls the air conditioner compressor. When the engine is running, the crankshaft pulley drives the belts around various pulleys. Replacing the belts is relatively easy if you pay attention to how the belts are routed around the pulleys. Belts should be replaced if they show any signs of wear or damage.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the plastic fan shroud. This diagram outlines the exact routing of each belt around each pulley it is associated with. If the belt routing diagram is faded or missing, make a drawing of the exact routing of the belts.

2

Remove the plastic cover from under the front of the car. You will need a ratchet and a socket to remove the screws. You may also need a flathead screwdriver to pry down on the corners of the cover.

3

Stand in front of the engine and locate the alternator. It is on the left side of the engine. Between the alternator and crankshaft pulley is a belt tension adjustment idler pulley. With a ratchet and socket, loosen the bolt to the bracket located in the middle of this pulley. Do not remove the bolt.

4

Use a ratchet and socket to turn the pulley adjustment bolt at the end of the idler pulley counter-clockwise and loosen the idler pulley until the v-belt is loose enough to slide off the alternator pulley and power steering pump pulley. Remove the belt.

5

Locate the air conditioner pump. Between the air conditioner pump and crankshaft pulley is a second belt tension adjustment idler pulley. Loosen this idler pulley the same way by loosening the center bracket bolt and then turning the adjustment bolt until the belt is loose enough to slide off the crankshaft and air conditioner pump pulleys. Remove the belt.

Installation

6

Compare the old belt to the new belt to make sure the new belt is the proper size. Put the air conditioner belt on the air conditioner pump pulley as shown on the belt routing diagram. You must install this belt first. Route the belt around the air conditioner pump pulley, idler pulley and crank shaft pulley. You may have to crawl under the car to slide the belt on the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. Use a ratchet and socket to turn the bracket adjustment bolt in the center of the idler pulley to tighten the belt.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt in the middle of the idler pulley. The recommended torque is 24 to 28 ft.-lbs.

7

Route the alternator/power steering belt around the alternator pulley, power steering pulley, crankshaft pulley and idler pulley as shown in the routing diagram. You may have to crawl under the car to slide the belt on the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. Use a ratchet and socket to turn the bracket adjustment bolt in the center of the idler pulley to tighten the belt.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt in the middle of the idler pulley. The recommended torque is 24 to 28 ft.-lbs.

8

Inspect both belts to make sure they are seated in the pulleys and at the proper tension. You should be able to push down on the belt with your finger 1/8- to 1/4-inch if the distance between two pulleys is less than 12 inches. If the distance is more than 12 inches, the belt should deflect 1/8- to 3/9-inch.

9

Crank the engine to turn the crankshaft pulley and make sure the belts are fully seated in the pulleys.

10

Reinstall the bottom plastic cover under the engine and close the hood.

Replacing the engine oil in your Volkswagen VR6 with the appropriate engine oil weight is important to maintain proper engine function. The type of oil you use depends on the weather. Oil that functions well in southern Texas may not be appropriate for winters in New England. By taking into account the temperature and information from your owners manual, you can determine the best oil to use in your car.

Temperature Considerations

Temperature should be a primary consideration when choosing engine oil. If you are going to operate your car at temperatures below 15 degrees Fahrenheit, choose an engine oil with a first weight of 10 or lower (e.g. 10W30, 10W40). If you are going to operate your engine above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, use an engine oil in which the second number is at least 50 (e.g. 10W50, 20W50).

Manufacturer Recommendations

VW recommends engine oil meeting Volkswagens "502.00" engine oil standard. Many oils meet the quality standards for Volkswagens 502.00 standard.

Approved Oils

Before purchasing oil, check the bottle or manufacturers website to make sure the oil conforms to Volkswagens standard. If you have any questions, contact your local Volkswagen dealer.

Knowing a spark plugs specifications is crucial to understanding how the engine operates. A spark can make an engine run well, or it can damage it with pre-ignition. If you do not use the plug with the correct rating, your car will not operate properly.

Why Plugs Need Ratings

Different spark plug lengths are compatible with cylinders of different sizes. Different engines also require plugs with different spark ratings. Depending on the engine, choosing the right plug ensures the fuel burns efficiently once the piston compresses it against the cylinder cap.

Sparks also indicate whether the engine is burning fuel properly. If the fuel is burning too lean, the spark plug tip will show a chalky white residue. If it is burning too rich, the plug will be black or oily.

Spark Specification Coding

Sparks are usually coded in four digits. The first letter is thread diameter code. This lets a user know the plug will fit right in the engine socket or not.

The second digit is a number for the heat rating (the lower the number, the hotter the plugs spark).

The third letter is a digit for the length of the plug (short or long). Smaller engines tend to use a shorter length that screws into the cylinder cap.

The fourth digit is for any special codes of manufacturing company differences and brand identifications.

Lastly, if a fifth digit exists, it represents the electrode gap measurement.

Using the Wrong Plug

While spark plugs are generally designed similarly enough that they can be used interchangeably, doing so is not a good idea. The wrong specification will mean the spark plug will run too hot or too cold and foul.

Running too hot is more serious; a hot spark plug will cause pre-ignition which makes the engine misfire and can melt a hole in a piston.

The 2005 Ford Escape is a compact four door SUV that first came out in 2001. It has two fuse panels: the main panel and an additional power distribution box to house high current fuses. The fuses help to run electronic equipment like the lights, radio and power doors and windows.

Main Fuse Panel

The main fuse box for the 2005 Ford Escape is on the passenger side of the center console near the instrument panel below the glove compartment. Remove the panel cover so you can access the fuses.

Power Distribution Box

The power distribution box, which holds the high current fuses, is in the engine compartment on the right hand side. The high-current fuses keep the electrical systems from overloading.

Safety

To safely replace fuses, make sure your cars engine and power are off. When replacing high current fuses, disconnect the battery before opening the panel to the power distribution box. Use the list of fuse codes in your owners manual, and the fuse puller tool in the main fuse panel to remove and replace fuses. Always replace the panel to the power distribution box before reconnecting the battery.

Regardless of the type of vehicle you drive, the alternator is one of the most important components in the engine. It acts as a generator to keep the battery charged while the engine is running, and controls the flow of electricity to the various electrical components of the engine. Over time, the alternator can suffer damage from wear and tear, and you many need to install a new one in order to keep your vehicle running properly.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and shut off the engine. Set the parking brake. Allow the engine to completely cool (30 minutes to an hour) and open the hood. Refer to the belt diagram on the underside of the hood or the radiator shroud cover to locate the exact installation area for the new alternator. Disconnect the negative battery connector with a wrench or socket.

2

Disconnect all of the wires to the old alternator. Follow the instructions on the diagram chart to locate and loosen the serpentine belt tensioner pulley that holds the belt tight in place, as this same belt attaches to the alternator. Use the socket and ratchet to loosen the tensioner pulley and slide the belt off. Take the now slack belt and remove it from the alternator. Loosen the bolts holding the mounting bracket for the alternator with a socket or wrench and remove the old alternator.

3

Install the new alternator. Mount it in place of the old alternator and replace the mounting brackets. Tighten the bolts in place with a socket or wrench. Reattach the wiring to the new alternator, but save the positive and negative connections for later. Slide the serpentine belt over the alternator pulley and adjust the tensioner pulley to slide the belt back in place over it. Adjust the tension on the belt until it is tight.

4

Connect the positive and negative connectors from the alternator to the battery of the car. Reattach the negative battery lead. Remove all of your tools from the engine and close the hood. Start the car and allow it to run for several minutes to ensure the belt and alternator are installed correctly.

Hydraulic cylinders can be found in a wide variety of industrial machinery. Cylinders can produce great power and are used in construction equipment, railroad machinery, manufacturing presses and in large public works facilities. The hydraulic system is normally reliable and trouble free, but over time heat and dirt wear away the close tolerances inside the moving components. Hydraulic cylinders can be very expensive and by testing a hydraulic cylinder properly you can save a lot of money in unneeded repairs.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the hydraulic hoses at the cylinder. Cap the cylinder and hoses with the correct size JIC caps and plugs. Remove the hydraulic cylinder from the equipment and place it on a work bench with the service ports facing up.

2

Remove the JIC caps from the cylinder service ports and fill both sides of the cylinder with clean hydraulic fluid. Connect one of the hydraulic pressure gauges to the service port of the blind side of the cylinder using a T-fitting. Connect the T-fitting to one of the outlet ports of the directional valve.

3

Connect a T-fitting to the service port of the piston side of the cylinder. Connect the other side of the T-fitting to the other ball valve and then to the other outlet port of the directional valve. Connect the third side of the T-connector with a short piece of hose to another T-connector. Install the hydraulic pressure gauge to one port of the last T-fitting and the other port to the pressure relief valve.

4

Connect a hydraulic hand pump to the inlet port of the directional valve following the manufacturers instructions. Open both ball valves and stroke the cylinder in each direction to remove all air from both sides of the cylinder. Position the piston rod mid-way and close the ball valve on the blind end of the cylinder.

5

Back out the adjustment on the pressure relief valve all the way. Set the directional valve to divert flow to the rod side of the cylinder. Activate the hydraulic pump and slowly turn in the pressure relief adjustment until the gauge pressure on the rod side of the cylinder equals the rated pressure of the cylinder.

6

Close the ball valve on the rod side of the cylinder and stop the hydraulic pump. Record the readings on both hydraulic gauges over time and observe any changes. Depending on the design of the cylinder, the rod side of the cylinder can be as much as twice the pressure of the blind side of the cylinder. If there are any differential pressure changes over time, then there is a problem with the piston or cylinder tube. Repair or replace the cylinder as required.

An exhaust leak can be frustrating. While exhaust leaks are often difficult to identify, worn exhaust manifold gaskets are often the problem. Removing worn exhaust manifold gaskets and replacing them with new gaskets on a Buick LeSabre is a small, inexpensive project for a do-it-yourself mechanic. With a few tools and a bit of time, you can remove failing exhaust manifold gaskets and replace them with new gaskets to increase the performance of your Buick LeSabre.

Instructions

1

Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.

2

Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.

3

Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.

4

Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.

5

Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets.

A spigot bushing is a part on all types of cars. It is the bronze sleeve bearing in the crankshaft which carries the nose of the gearbox input shaft to provide proper alignment of the clutch disk. A spigot (sometimes erroneously referred to as "spicket") bushing is essential for the crankshaft of a car to operate properly. When you are replacing a spigot bushing, it is necessary to match up the old one with a new one to ensure the proper bushing is installed.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood and locate the spigot bushing in the crankshaft of the car. Insert a 5/8-inch metal rod into the bushing that is already installed on the crankshaft and hit it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will push the bushing out of the bore.

2

Pour a bottle of oil into an oil pan or other canister and soak the new bronze bushing in the oil for 24 hours. This will help lubricate it and make for easier installation of the spigot bushing.

3

Pour a small amount of grease onto the area where the old spigot bushing was removed from. Do not let it sit for too long. Begin installing the bushing right after you apply the grease.

4

Place the spigot bushing where the old one was and slide the 5/8-inch metal rod into the bushing. Set a punch on top of the rod and force it down into place with a hammer. Strike firmly with the hammer and tap the bushing down into place.

A cold air intake system can offer you additional horsepower and brings cold air into the engine allowing it to run more efficiently. This can add life and fun to your vehicle at a relatively low cost and can be installed in around 90 minutes.

Instructions

1

Write down all the information about your vehicle. This should include make, model, year, engine type, engine size and any custom work that has been done to the engine. This information will help you find the cold air intake filter right for your car.

2

Decide on the cold air intake filter you would like. There are many brands to choose from including K&N, AEM, and S&B. Within each of these brands, there are different air intake systems for each vehicle.

3

Shop around online and locally to find the best price, warranty and installation assistance for the cold air intake filter you desire. Shopping locally can save you shipping costs, as most cold air intake filters are stocked or can be ordered and received within a day.

4

Ask about extended warranty options. While the initial warranty can provide great coverage, an extended warranty can protect your vehicle more and cover maintenance costs.

The exhaust pipes on your car, truck or motorcycle carry the gasses expelled from the engine during the combustion process safely to the rear of the vehicle. This is usually accomplished with pieces of steel tubing that are suspended to the underside of the vehicle. Since the exhaust usually has to wind over, under or around the vehicle undercarriage to get to the rearmost part of the vehicle, it is manufactured in several different pieces and either welded, bolted or clamped together to form a continuous flow. Each manufacturer may have different names for the various exhaust pieces, but may include the header pipe, front pipe, exhaust pipe, catalytic converter, muffler, resonator and tailpipe.

Exhaust Manifold

Converting the exhaust from each cylinder on your engine to a single outlet is usually accomplished with an exhaust manifold. An exhaust manifold is usually constructed of cast iron and is bolted to the cylinder head. V-type or boxer engines have two banks of cylinders -- one on each side of the block. In these cases, there should be an exhaust manifold bolted to each cylinder head. The exhaust manifold is usually not considered part of the exhaust system, but it gives the exhaust pipe a place to attach to.

Header Pipe

When referring to exhaust pipes, the header pipe sometimes refers to the part of the exhaust system that attaches directly to the exhaust manifold of the engine. If your vehicle is a single cylinder motorcycle or a vehicle that has an inline engine, a single header pipe would connect directly to the exhaust manifold or engine. Header pipes used on V-type or boxer engines can sometimes be referred to as a Y pipe, as it connects to both sides of the engine and comes together to form one pipe. Some vehicles use a dual exhaust system. These types of vehicles may a have a separate, single header pipe for each exhaust header.

Headers

Some vehicles may use factory or aftermarket exhaust headers in place of a cast iron exhaust manifold and header pipe. Headers are usually constructed of several pipes welded together and take the place of both the exhaust manifold and the header pipe. Headers are usually tuned, meaning the length of the tube that attaches to each exhaust port on the engine is engineered in such a way to extract maximum power and efficiency from the engine. Headers are factory-installed on some performance engines, but are usually an aftermarket accessory that is owner-installed.

Front Pipe

Depending on the manufacturer, the front pipe on an exhaust system can refer to pipe that bolts to the engine -- the header pipe -- or the pipe that connects the header pipe to the remainder of the exhaust system. The exhaust system on vehicles that have transverse-mounted engines may need to compensate for the back-and-forth rocking motion of the engine when accelerating or decelerating. Whereas the header pipe may be a solid, fixed pipe, a flexible pipe -- sometimes referred to as the front pipe -- connects the header pipe to the rear of the exhaust system. On some vehicles, the exhaust pipe that connects to the rear of the flexible pipe may be referred to as the front pipe.