Repair And Fix it

When a vehicles fuel delivery system is not working properly, one of the likely suspects is a faulty fuel pump. Issues, such as a higher than normal level of resistance in the ground connection of the fuel pump, could be causing the problems. In any event, a faulty fuel pump can certainly cause other issues within an automobile.

Fuel Consumption

A low fuel pressure reading often indicates that you have a faulty fuel pump. The voltage being supplied to the pump may not be high enough to spin the pump fast enough to build up the proper amount of pressure. This, in turn, leads to a vehicle burning more gas.

Hard Starting

When a fuel pump is not in operation, a vehicles fuel system should still maintain residual pressure for at least a few minutes. When this is not the case, its often because the check valve on the fuel pump is leaking. This can lead to hard starting in a vehicle.

Tips

If an in-tank fuel pump is faulty and needs replacing, the battery always should be disconnected first. This will keep sparks from occurring during the replacement procedure.

The 2006 Mazda Speed 6 is a four-door sedan. It sold for an original MSRP of $28,000. As of November 2010 the car has a retail value of around $17,000. The car was built for two years, with 2006 being its first production year. It was an attempt by Mazda to offer a sporty sedan.

Mechanical

The Speed 6 is powered by a 2.3-liter, four-cylinder engine. The engine features a turbo charger, which compresses air into the engine for more combustion. It can push out 274 horsepower and generate 280 ft-lbs of torque at 5,500 rpm.

Braking and Suspension

This car has a four-wheel anti-lock braking system that helps stabilize the four disc brakes. Two of the discs are ventilated to allow heat to dissipate. Electronic traction control is used to help manage any potential skidding. The system is managed from the ABS system and engine management. This Mazda features a wishbone style front suspension and uses a stabilizer bar to keep the cars body from shifting. The rear uses a multi-link system with coil springs and a stabilizer bar.

Exterior

The Mazda has a traditional sedan body except for the front. The hood is angled down and the lights are slanted at an angle to give the car a sporty look. It features a rear spoiler and uses xenon headlights. The windows are tinted, and the vehicle has front fog lights. The cars antenna is located on the roof. It has dual tailpipes, and the wheels are 18 inches in diameter. Each wheel has 15 spokes.

Interior

The car has an anti-theft protection system. It has a Bose audio system and comes with an AM/FM radio as well as a CD auto changer and six-disc remote changer. Other features include cruise control, a door ajar warning light and driver and passenger airbags. Additional airbags may be found in the roof as well as side airbags for the front occupants. The airbags have sensors designed to detect if someone is sitting in the seat. The vehicle can tell you the temperature outside. The ventilation system uses a micro filter to keep out many harmful particulates.

Technical Specifications

The Speed 6 is 186.6 inches long and 70.1 inches wide. It stands 56.3 inches tall. It has a turning radius of 36.8 feet. The vehicle weighs3,589 lbs. It has a 15.9-gallon fuel tank, and it takes 91 octane gas. It gets 20 mpg in the city and 26 mpg on the highway. The cars interior features 96.2 cubic feet of volume as well as 12.4 cubic feet of trunk space.

The 2005 Kia Spectra left the factory with a 2.0-liter, four-cylinder engine with a single serpentine belt driving the alternator and water pump from power supplied by the crankshaft pulley. Replacing that belt is a simply process with just a few steps and requiring only hand tools to complete. Working in the driveway or garage at home, most home mechanics can accomplish this job in about 20 minutes. A replacement belt for your Kia is available from any auto-parts store or through the Kia dealer.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the car and remove the retaining bolt that holds the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal using a wrench. Isolate the cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the adjuster bolt on the top of the alternator and loosen it with a wrench. Push the alternator toward the center of the engine, loosening the belt.

3

Remove the belt from the pulleys and discard it. Place the new belt around the crankshaft pulley, run it up and over the water pump pulley, then around the alternator pulley. Pull the alternator back, tightening the belt.

4

Tighten the adjuster bolt on the top of the alternator with a wrench, then check the tension on the belt. Press down on the belt between the alternator pulley and the water pump pulley. The belt should deflect about 1/8 inch.

5

Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt with a wrench.

A half dozen independent parts suppliers as well as Harley sell oil coolers for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The devices help keep the motorcycles air-cooled engine from overheating, especially for bikes that are improperly tuned, ridden long distances or are ridden in very hot climates . All these devices mount on one or both down tubes on the front of the bike. Heat radiates from the oil to the front of an oil cooler where it is dissipated by the wind. Oil coolers add about a quart to the engines oil capacity.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the crankcase into a pan as described in the owners manual for the motorcycle. Oil drains from most Harleys through a crankcase plug which you remove with a socket and socket wrench. A few models drain through a hose after loosening a hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and hand removing a metal plug.

2

Loosen the oil filter using an oil filter wrench. Remove the oil filter by hand and drain the oil in the filter into a pan. Replace the crankcase plug or reseal the drain hose.

3

Clean up all spilled oil with disposable rags. Properly dispose of the used motor oil and filter.

4

Loosen the oil pump hose fitting near the exhaust pipes with a box wrench. Unfasten the oil feed hose from the oil pump by hand. Unscrew the feed hose fitting from the crankcase and discard the hose.

5

Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant or equivalent to the two line fitting included with your oil cooler. Hand tighten the fitting to the crankcase and oil pump. Tighten the fitting to 60 inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Install the cooler return hose included with your oil cooler to the crankcase fitting by hand. Install the cooler supply hose for your oil cooler to the oil pump fitting by hand.

7

Unclip the clutch cable and wire harness from the left down tube. Remove the clips with pliers and discard. Attach the oil cooler clamps that came with your cooler to approximately the same spot on the down tube.

8

Attach but do not tighten the oil cooler to the cooler clamps with the Allen bolts and nuts in your oil cooler kit. Attach the return line to the right most fitting on the bottom of the oil cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver.

9

Attach the oil feed line to the left most fitting on the bottom of the cooler using a hose clamp and screwdriver. Tighten both hose clamps.

10

Turn the oil cooler so it faces forward. Check for binds or crimps in the hoses. Tighten the cooler clamps to the down tube to 32 inch pounds of torque.

11

Clip the wiring harness and clutch cable into the oil cooler clamps.

12

Unscrew the cooler supply hose from the oil pump. Screw the return hose to crankcase and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

13

Screw the cooler supply line to the oil pump and tighten to 19 pounds of torque.

14

Clip the oil cooler lines with the hardware in your oil cooler kit. Hand tighten a new oil filter to the filter mounting stud. Add the factory recommended amount of oil to your oil tank.

15

Examine the dipstick to and add additional small amounts of oil until the dipstick reads full. Start the motorcycle in neutral and check for oil leaks. Turn off the engine when the cooler becomes warm to the touch.

16

Re-tighten all fasteners to the specifications in your oil cleaner kit instructions when the engine has cooled. Reread the dip stick and add oil as indicated.

An engine lift, also called a hoist, is a heavy-duty piece of equipment used to lift automobile engines out of the chassis so that mechanics can work on or replace them. Engine lifts are manufactured by numerous companies, but designs are generally the same with similar parts. A typical engine hoist is composed of a stand, a jack, (also called a hydraulic ram) and a boom with chains and hook attachments.

The Stand

The engine lift stand, also called the legs or frame, is a foundation that stabilizes the lift and bears the weight of the engine when the lift is loaded. A good engine lift stand is made of steel or other sturdy, durable metal. Many engine lift stands are equipped with pivoting casters with locking brakes so that the entire lift can be easily and safely moved or repositioned.

The Jack or Hydraulic Ram

The jack or hydraulic ram composes the vertical, central portion of an engine hoist, and is the part of the device that does the actual lifting. The hydraulic jack functions similarly to a car jack, and is equipped with a lever operated by manually pumping it to raise the engine incrementally. All hydraulic rams should be equipped with a safety device to control how quickly the lift lowers the engine, and to prevent it from slipping or dropping.

The Boom, Chains and Hooks

The boom is a long, horizontal arm, usually equipped with chains and hooks, that is mounted onto the hydraulic jack. A boom is designed to balance load forces so that a loaded engine lift will not tip over. Once the hooks are attached to the engine, the boom rises incrementally as the hydraulic jack is pumped, lifting the engine free of the chassis. The chains allow the engine to dangle from the boom with some horizontal motion, which makes it easier to maneuver the engine.

Correct ignition timing specifications are crucial for engine performance. Timing affects many variables, including fuel economy and engine longevity. Sold for more than six decades, the F150 is a full-sized pickup manufactured by Ford Motor Company. Its engineers have determined precise timing specifications so that you can benefit from your 1989 F150 truck as much as possible.

Measuring Ignition Timing

A timing light is used to check the timing. When the motor is running, an inductive trigger signal is picked up from one of the spark plug cables, causing the light to illuminate and freeze while the spark plug fires. This helps determine the crankshaft position. Use this information for timing adjustment.

Timing Specifications

The ideal time at which the mixture should be fully burned on the 1989 F150 is in the range from 9.5 to 14.0 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) with engine running at 2,500 rpm.

Notes

These adjustments should be performed only on mechanical advance distributors. Also, when the engine is operating at high altitudes, the timing should be set to 14 degrees.

Tires encounter a number of general problems, so it is important that tires receive proper maintenance for the safety of the driver and drivers of other vehicles on the road.

Tire Inflation

If tires are overinflated, they will wear away in the center because the outer edges are lifted off the ground. Underinflated tires will wear away on the outer edges, as the tire will rise in the middle. Tires will wear evenly when they have the right amount of air pressure.

Shock Abosrbers

Shock absorbers that are not in good condition will cause the tires to become unstable, allowing the tire to continuously move up and down. This can cause abnormal tire wear.

Bent Tire Rims

Car tires should comfortably fit around tire rims. If the rim is out of shape, the tire will function abnormally. Stress on a tire will cause early wear and tear.

Inside a vehicles engine houses a myriad of intricately moving parts to propel the car forward. Parts, such as exhaust valves, play a key role in the functioning of the engines cylinder assemblies.

Function

Exhaust valves work inside the cylinder heads to function with the exhaust port, allowing fumes to leave the chamber. The valve itself runs extremely hot due to the lack of cooling from the hot exhaust fumes.

Identification

Exhaust valve problems arise more often than other valve problems because of the extreme heat, about 1200 to 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. Though it is made of strong alloy material, it can erode from burn-out, creating a hole in the side of the valve.

Considerations

Aside from being burned out, improper replacement of a valve can shorten its life. Additionally, excess deposits on the cylinder and valve can create a hotter environment to allow the erosion process to begin and hasten forward.

Dead batteries are often thrown out, which can lead to buying unnecessary replacements. Most batteries can be reconditioned, which will get them back to full strength so that they can be used again.

Types

If a battery is known to be rechargeable, then it likely can be reconditioned. There are several types of batteries that can be reconditioned, such as lead acid batteries. Lithium Ion (Li-Ion), Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) and Nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH) batteries can also be reconditioned.

Method

The method for reconditioning a battery will vary according to battery type. For example, sulfur build up keeps lead acid batteries from working correctly. Because of this, they can be reconditioned using Epson salt. After the salt is heated, it is poured into the battery to clean out the sulfur.

Warning

Some batteries, such as the Li-Ion type, may require that you contact its manufacturer before attempting to recondition it. Using the wrong procedure to recondition a battery could damage it beyond repair.

Its not difficult to time a four-stroke. Youll need to make a habit out of checking the ignition timing mechanism. This is a vital part of figuring out the present state of your engine. To begin a four-stroke engine timing check, all thats required is access to a single spark plug.

Instructions

1

Locate the magneto. The magneto is the section where each plug wire converges. Select the closest cylinder to you. Assign that particular cylinder as the main cylinder. Locate the center of the compression stroke. Take off the spark plug and remove it from the cylinder.

2

Put a finger on the spark plug hole. Use the wrench against the crank bolt. Now turn the wrench clockwise. Take the pencil and place it into the hole. Push it forward until the tip of it reaches the top of the piston. Move the crank forward and backwards to locate the highest point of the piston. The cylinder will be dead center. Switch out the wire and spark plug.

3

Locate the erence mark on the crankshaft pulley. Place marking tape on the crankshaft pulley. Clamp down on the spark plug wires inductive pickup. Make certain that it goes to the main cylinder. Clip down on the positive battery terminals red wire. The negative battery terminal should be place on the black wire.

4

Turn on the engine. The timing light should now be pointed at the crank pulley. Do this while the engine idles. Shut off the engine. Put another mark onto the pulley. This mark should correspond with the second mark. Start the engine again.

5

Confirm that the second pulley marking tape section aligns with the marking tape lines on the engines block. Shut the engine off. Detach the vehicles timing light. The degree wheel should now be placed on the crank pulley.

While a vehicle with a cracked radiator remains operable and can be driven as long as you ensure it remains continually full of water, doing so is not a good idea. The radiator and the coolant that it holds performs a number of crucial functions for proper engine operation. A crack in the radiator will reduce pressure, introduce air into the system and foul the ground with poison. Even if you stop to fill the radiator regularly, the breach in the system will ultimately affect the engine overall.

Overheating

The primary purpose of a radiator is to cool the engine. When a radiator is cracked, coolant leaks from the radiator, causing the level to fall, resulting in improper cooling or a complete loss of cooling. Overheating an engine can result in a damaged or ruined engine.

Loss of Lubrication

In addition to cooling the engine, antifreeze lubricates the water pump. When the radiator is low on antifreeze or even filled with just water, no coolant, the water pump is not properly being lubricated, which can cause premature pump failure.

Expense

While the primary reason that one might choose to drive with a cracked radiator is to avoid the cost of repair or replacement, the costs of antifreeze and damage to the vehicle will far outweigh any short-term savings. To save money, a car owner may choose to repair the damaged radiator or to purchase a used one.

Turbochargers are air compressors that sit on an engines air intake. The turbocharger is powered by the engines own exhaust gases. The wastegate regulates the flow of the exhaust gas in order to control the turbocharger revolutions per minute. Every turbocharger has a slot on the exhaust manifold hookup for a wastegate valve. The previous wastegate valve has to be removed before a new one can be installed. Additionally, you must use a wastegate compatible with your turbocharger setup or too much gas may be pumped into the turbocharger.

Instructions

1

Drive the car somewhere out of the way, or tow it if the wastegate is broken. Driving a turbocharged car with a damaged wastegate can seriously damage the turbocharger and the engine. Place the car in park and turn off the car. Pull the hood release latch and then prop the hood up with the prop stick. Disconnect the black wire from the car battery to ensure that the cars circuits are dead.

2

Locate the wastegate valve on the turbine side of the turbocharger. The wastegate is a small metal valve bolted onto the turbochargers exhaust feeder pipes. Disconnect the control wire from the wastegate and place it to the side. Use a wrench to unbolt the two bolts that secure the old wastegate to the turbocharger. Pull the wastegate out, being caul not to scrape the sides of the hole.

3

Slide the new wastegate into the hole on the exhaust feeder pipe. Slide in the bolts and screw them down by hand. Once both bolts are down, wrench them down flush with a wrench. Plug in the control wire into the side of the wastegate. Make sure there is no packing material stuck in the valve. Reconnect the black wire on the car battery and then shut the hood. Turn on the car and take it for a test drive.

Locating the thermostat on the engine in your 2002 Mitsubishi Galant is the first step in replacing it or removing it for testing. The thermostat is located inside the thermostat housing, so you will not be able to see the actual thermostat unless you remove the housing. Replacement thermostats are available at most auto-parts stores, but be sure to check the heat range required for your engine. Not all thermostats are the same and one with the wrong heat range will allow the engine to overheat, damaging it.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Galant and locate the radiator at the front of the car. You will see two hoses, upper and lower, coming out of the radiator.

2

Follow the upper radiator hose, starting at the end that connects to the radiator, down its length. The hose runs to the top of the engine but may run under or over other components along the way.

3

Locate the end of the hose, where it attaches to the engine. The housing it attaches to is the thermostat housing. The thermostat is located under this housing. To gain access to it, you have to remove the housing after first draining the cooling system. You will recognize the thermostat--it is metal and looks like a disk with a spring in the center. It is also the only thing under the housing.

The 1996 BMW 318 TI engine comes equipped with two different accessory belts that operate all of the engine accessories. The front belt is a single V-belt that operates the air conditioner compressor, and the back belt is a single serpentine belt that operates the power steering pump, cooling fan and the alternator. Both belts are tensioned inside of each accessory pulley by two separate belt tensioners. Excessive heat and wear can cause the belts to fray. Once the fraying becomes visible, replace the belt soon before it breaks.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and locate the belt tensioner for the air conditioner belt. The tensioner is mounted to the front of the engine block between the crankshaft and the a/c compressor. Use the tensioner pulley bolt to loosen the tension from the belt.

2

Position a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar in a counter-clockwise motion to loosen the tension from the belt. Pull the belt out from around the tensioner pulley, the a/c pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Remove the belt from the engine well.

3

Locate the serpentine belt tensioner mounted to the front of the engine block on the lower left hand side of the alternator. Use the tensioner pulley bolt to loosen the tension from the belt.

4

Position a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar in a counter-clockwise motion to loosen the tension from the belt. Pull the belt off the tensioner pulley and the remaining accessory pulleys. Remove the belt from the engine compartment.

5

Route the new serpentine belt around the accessories exactly as described by the belt routing diagram that is stamped to the top of the fan shroud. Once the belt is inside the accessory pulleys, turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket again and slide the belt around the tensioner pulley. Release the breaker bar and remove it from the tensioner.

6

Route the new air conditioner belt around the a/c compressor pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket again. Slide the belt around the tensioner pulley and release the breaker bar. Remove the breaker bar from the engine compartment. Look over both belts to ensure they are seated inside of each accessory pulley.

7

Crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds to completely seat the new belts inside the accessory pulleys. Turn the engine off.

Bavarian Motor Works (BMW) is a German automobile company that manufactures and markets performance and luxury vehicles. BMW automobiles feature a keyless entry system that is built into the key and allows you to unlock and lock the doors and trunk with the press of a button. At times, the unlock and lock functionality on the key will stop working. When this happens, you need to reset your BMW key.

Instructions

1

Unlock your BMW using the metal key.

2

Place the key in the ignition.

3

Turn the key to the "On" position.

4

Turn the key to the "Off" position.

5

Remove the key from the ignition.

6

Press and hold the "Unlock" button on your key.

7

Press the "Lock" button on the key three times. Your key is now reset and should function properly.

Drive shafts, also called propeller shafts, are a very important part of a vehicles engine system. They are essentially hollow tubes which connect the transmission output shaft to the differential pinion shaft. The vast majority of drive shafts are made from steel, including those for racing vehicles, motor homes, trucks, four-by-four vehicles and replacement parts. Different kinds of steel are used on various types of drive shafts.

OEM Steel Drive Shafts

OEM steel drive shafts are rated for less heavy-duty service than other types of steel drive shafts. Usually they can handle about 350 pounds per foot, or about 350 to 400 horsepower. This is the lowest performance level for steel drive shafts.

Dsaya Steel Drive Shafts

Dsaya steel drive shafts, stronger than OEM drive shafts, usually can handle about 1,300 pounds per square foot of pressure, which is comparable to about 1,000 to 1,300 horsepower. If your car does not require a lightweight unit, a Dsaya steel drive shaft is an excellent choice.

Chrome-Moly Steel Drive Shafts

Chrome-moly steel drive shafts are the strongest possible type of steel drive shaft. You will find this type of steel drive shaft in Pro Stock-style racing cars. Chrome-moly steel can be strengthened even further if it is heat-treated. Heat treatment will raise the torsional strength about 22 percent and raise the drive trains critical, or maximum, speed by about 19 percent.

CV Steel Drive Shafts

Constant-velocity (CV) steel drive shafts are so named because they revolve at the same speed during the entirety of their operation. One of the most common types of drive shaft, they come in several different subtypes, mostly characterized by the way in which the transmission output shaft and the differential pinion shaft connect.

Split Drive Steel Drive Shafts

Split drive steel drive shafts are two-piece drive shafts used on many vehicles with longer wheelbases. They are characterized by an extra U-joint and a center bearing which provides greater support to the shaft assemblys middle area.

Torque Tube Steel Drive Shafts

Torque tube steel drive shafts are used on cars with independent rear suspensions. This type of drive shaft is connected rigidly at both ends, with a rotating inner shaft.

Flexible Steel Drive Shafts

Flexible steel drive shafts are very rare and quite different than other steel drive shafts. They are not rigid shafts but are instead just large steel cables.

The cam sprockets in an automotive engine resemble round gears and generally have deep teeth to maintain consistent hold of the timing belt or chain, thus removing them may be a daunting task. Because of how intensive this procedure is for most vehicles, it is recommended that other service procedures be undertaken at the same time while those areas of the engine are being accessed. The most important items to service while you have access would be the timing belt (especially in an interference engine) and the water pump.

Instructions

1

Raise your vehicle and support it on jack stands, as most vehicles will require access from underneath the engine.

2

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent an electric discharge that may cause a fire.

3

Remove the accessory drive belts or serpentine belt and locate the timing covers which are directly behind them.

4

Remove the timing covers and the timing belt or chain from the vehicle according to the manufacturers instructions. As it is highly recommended to replace the timing belt, the new belt should come with instructions specific to your vehicle on safely removing the old one.

5

Grip the sprocket with the sprocket holding tool according to the instructions. If you do not have a holding tool, one can be made by inserting two bolts into a pre-drilled metal bar. The bolts should have a space between them roughly the width of the sprocket spokes and the metal bar should have enough length to provide adequate leverage against a strong torque. Once you have a tool in place to provide counter-leverage and hold the sprocket in place, remove the sprockets mounting bolt from its hub.

6

Pull the sprocket from the camshaft and repeat this procedure on the other sprocket as necessary. When reinstalling the sprockets and timing components, it is important to tighten each bolt to the manufacturers specifications with a torque wrench. If your vehicle uses a timing chain, observe the manufacturers recommendations regarding chain lubrication.

The ignition system in your car takes the spark generated by the distributor pickup coil and sends it through the plug wires to the spark plugs at just the right time. With this in mind, the pickup coil is a vital part of the ignition system.

Definition

The distributor shaft is typically turned by a gear on the bottom of the shaft. This gear is turned either by a timing belt, a timing chain or directly by the camshaft. The pickup coil is around this shaft, generally under the distributor rotor. The pickup coil is an electromagnetic sensor.

Function

On the distributor shaft there is a raised metal "tongue." This tongue passes by the pickup coil each time the distributor rotates. This causes the pickup coil to send a signal to the ignition control module, letting it know where the distributor is in its rotation. This corresponds with where the motor is in the compression cycle. The control module then knows when to send spark to the coil.

Options

Modern vehicles usually have a camshaft position sensor or a crankshaft position sensor and sometimes both. These work on the same principle as the pickup coil; but because they are located directly beside the crankshaft and the camshaft, they are more accurate. In newer vehicles these sensors also help time fuel delivery through the injection system, making them more efficient.

Fuel pump problems in certain BMWs may cause motor trouble, according to the results of a National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) investigation. Fuel pump failure could cause longer engine starting times or rough engine running.

Consumer Complaints

In 2008, 27 consumers complained to the NHTSA and to BMW that a fuel pump problem had caused engine trouble in their 2007 BMW 335i models. Some of these drivers experienced the motor suddenly shutting off on the freeway. Others crashed when the fuel pumps malfunctioning led to engine trouble.

NHTSA Investigation

NHTSA opened an investigation in April 2008 to determine the cause and safety risks of BMW high-pressure fuel pumps causing engines to stall. NHTSA closed the investigation in August 2008 noting that the stalled engine problem occurred in only four percent of complaints, but disclaiming that the closing of the investigation doesnt necessarily mean a safety risk does not exist.

No Recall

As of 2010, the manufacturer has not issued a recall to repair this problem. This means BMW owners will bear the financial burden of any repairs that arent covered under warranty.

You can retrieve the trouble codes from your 94 Nissan pickup right from your home garage, saving yourself both time and money. 1994 Nissan pickups come equipped with an on-board diagnostics I computer (OBD I) that retrieves and stores all trouble codes sent to it from various sensors within the pickup. When these sensors detect a problem in the Nissan, they send the code to the computer. The computer illuminates service and warning lights on the instrument cluster. You can retrieve these codes using a handheld device called an OBD I code reader. This can be purchased online or at any auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagnostic port near the steering column on the underside of the drivers side dashboard. It will be the same size and shape as the connector on the OBD I code reader.

2

Plug the code reader into this diagnostic port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, taking care not to start the engine.

4

Wait for the code reader to turn on. Select the "Read Codes" command (or a similar command) on the face of the reader. Wait for the code reader to display the codes. Write down the codes it displays.

5

Look up the meaning of the alphanumeric codes in the manual. Unplug the reader and perform the servicing or repairs the vehicle needs based on the information obtained from the codes.

A Truecraft torque wrench allows you to tighten a bolt to a specific torque value. Most automotive repair jobs require that you secure bolts to a certain torque value, measured in foot-pounds or inch-pounds. Too little torque could cause the bolt to work its way loose, and too much could cause uneven pressure and it could even cause the head of the bolt to snap off.

Instructions

1

Grip the metal portion of the Truecraft torque wrench with one hand and grip the handle of the torque wrench with the other.

2

Turn the black handle on the torque wrench until it matches up with the specified torque you need to obtain. For example, if your bolt requires 20 foot-pounds of torque, turn the handle until the end of the handle lines up with the line next to 20.

3

Push the socket onto the head of the Truecraft torque wrench and then place the socket onto the head of the bolt.

4

Tighten the bolt down with the torque wrench with slow smooth strokes. Continue this until the torque wrench clicks one time. You have reached the desired torque on the bolt.

5

If you tighten past the first click you will over-torque the bolt. This could cause the bolt to break.

Expansion ball bearings lie within the drive train of your motor vehicle. The drive train allows for a connection between the transmission of the vehicle and the drive axles. Expansion ball bearings help the system run smoothly by reducing friction. When installing new expansion ball bearings, you should always first consult your cars owners manual. While some systems do differ, the process for installing expansion ball bearings in one drive train or another is quite similar.

Instructions

1

Find an access point behind the drive train. This position makes it easier to install the expansion ball bearings. Use a screwdriver to remove the shield that protects the drive train.

2

Roll the expansion ball bearing into place on the grooves. Locate the grooves between the O-shaped races. The ball bearing sits between the smaller "O" and the bigger "O."

3

Press gently against the expansion ball bearing with your fingers to hold it in place. Do not use a tool. If finger pressure is not enough to hold the ball bearing still, you might have an obstruction, such as a shaft end. If this occurs, remove the shaft end and reapply the expansion ball bearing.

4

Screw the shield back into place to protect the expansion ball bearing.

The exhaust system on your Jeep Wrangler can be replaced to increase the power, fuel economy and performance of your vehicle. Stock exhaust systems do not allow the air to flow from the engine as efficiently as some aftermarket products, creating high exhaust temperatures and decreasing the vehicles power and fuel economy. Replacement exhaust kits may be purchased on-line or at your local auto parts store and installing the new exhaust requires only a ratchet and socket set.

Instructions

Original Exhaust Removal

1

Loosen and remove the clamps that connect the muffler to the exhaust tailpipe with a ratchet and socket.

2

Lubricate the rubber isolators at the frame by spraying them with lubricating fluid.

3

Remove the hangers on the muffler from the rubber isolators on the frame of the vehicle by pulling the hangers out of the rubber isolators. Lower the muffler to the ground.

Replacement Exhaust Installation

4

Place an exhaust clamp at the rear output pipe of the muffler.

5

Lift the muffler into position and insert the output pipe into the stock pipe. Push the hangers on the muffler into the rubber isolators on the frame. Tighten the clamp with a ratchet and socket.

6

Place an exhaust clamp on the output pipe of the muffler. Attach the tailpipe to the muffler and tighten the clamp with a ratchet and socket.

7

Look underneath the vehicle and confirm that no wires are touching the exhaust system.

8

Start the vehicle and check for leaks.

Car emblems can be installed for a variety of reasons, including dealer and factory markings. Car emblems are often used to catch prospective buyers eyes or express personal style or opinions. Emblems that have been applied to a car with black paint are no more or less difficult to remove than any other emblems. However, black paint is prone to fading, which can leave a darker spot of paint behind once the emblem is removed. Fortunately, you can minimize this effect with a little bit of extra effort.

Instructions

1

Put your heat gun on its lowest setting and apply heat to the emblem by holding the heat gun a couple of inches away from the emblem. Be caul not to get the heat gun too hot, or it may make your paint bubble under the emblem and permanently damage your cars paint. Use the heat to weaken the glue adhesive holding the emblem on. Periodically check the emblem by attempting to pry a corner of it loose with the putty knife.

2

Pry the emblem off of the vehicle with the putty knife as gently as possible.

3

Use adhesive cleaner to remove leftover glue from vehicles paint. If you do not wash the area thoroughly and make sure all the glue is gone, dirt and debris may become stuck to your paint in the area where the emblem was located, which can be particularly noticeable on a black car.

4

Wax your car, paying special attention to the area around where the emblem was located. This can help reduce the difference in paint color between the paint that has been faded by the sun and the unfaded black paint that was protected from the sun by the emblem.

The Chevrolet 235 cubic-inch inline six-cylinder engine -- successor to the 216-cubic-inch -- entered full-production during the 1940s and continued until the 1960s. Identification requires locating and comparing the vehicle with 235 serial numbers. Any difficulty in identifying 235-cubic-inch engines is because other Chevrolet six-cylinder vehicles used the same block and the numbering system changed in 1954, requiring an alternative decoding process. If the serial number does not match any found on a listing, the stroke must be measured.

Instructions

1

Find the engine serial number. According to Old Car Manual Project, all 235-cubic-inch engine serial numbers are on the passengers side of the block, either near the oil dipstick or to the rear of the distributor. Pre-1954 engines have a two- to three-letter pix followed by a six-digit assembly number. Later engines begin with a seven-digit assembly number followed by the plant designation, model year and type designation; for example, 0123456 F 55 Z.

2

Decode the pre-1954 engine number. Old Car Manual Project decodes the example JAM 123456 as follows: "J" is the code for 1951. This year identification system began in 1941 with the letter "D" and continued in sequence until 1953 with the letter "L." The second letter, "A," is the vehicle designation and "M" is the plant code. The following six digits are the production sequence number. To decode the model designation and plant code, consult a listing similar to the one found on Old Car Manual Project. This listing has specific pixes identified as belonging to the 235-cubic-inch engine.

3

Decode the 1954 and later serial number. According to the website, 1954 and later serial numbers follow a different system, 0123456 F 54 Z, for example. The first set of numbers is the assembly sequence number, "F" is the plant designation, "54" is the 1954 year designation. The final set of letters -- in this case, "Z" -- are engineering codes. "Z" represents a standard 235 engine.

4

Remove the valve cover and the cylinder head to measure the stroke. Crank the engine until one of the pistons is at dead bottom. According to Museum Stuff, the 235-cubic-inch engine has a stroke measuring 3.9375 inches from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder wall.

A good diagnostician is something of a Car Whisperer, one who can pick up on the tiniest of clues to intuit both the cause of a problem and the avenue to its solution. Tire cupping isnt the most common wear pattern out there, but it is one of the most serious and telling in terms of diagnosing the chassis condition.

Cupping

In terms of tire wear patterns, "cupping" ers to a series of regular dips appearing in the outer edge of a tires tread. Also called "scalloping," these dips look as though someones taken shallow scoops out of the rubber with the worlds most sinister ice cream scooper. This sort of cupping shouldnt be confused with the cupping that often occurs on large drag tires. In this context, cupping happens when the tires inflation pressure is too low and the center of the tire curves upward or "cups" at high speed.

Cupping Causes

Cupping is a sign of rapid tire bounce or side-to-side oscillation. Theres no one single cause behind such bouncing or oscillations; any component that connects the wheel to the car is suspect. Worn shock absorbers will fail to control wheel movement, allowing the tires to bounce and cup the tread. Suspension bushings and ball joints are secondary suspects, followed by wheel bearings and steering end-links. The last two, however, should exhibit noticeable symptoms -- vibration through the steering wheel and chassis -- well before cupping becomes an issue.

Argument 1 -- Driving on Cupped Tires

Some contend that cupping isnt necessarily a death sentence for tires, provided that the lowest point in the scallops dont extend past the tires lowest safe wear zone. After youve fixed whats causing the cupping, the high points in the scallops will wear far more quickly than the low points, which should smooth them out over time. Rotating the tires may help to speed the smoothing, since doing so will at least change the frequency of oscillation acting upon that tire.

Argument 2 -- Not Driving on Cupped Tires

While it is true that fixing the problem and driving on cupped tires may eventually smooth them out, the fact is that the low points in the scallops will continue to wear just like the high points. Granted, theyll wear more slowly, but even with the best-case scenario, youre looking at a tire with a serious -- if smooth -- bald strip around the edge. From this perspective, any cupping at all is the death knell for your tire and a sign that it needs replacement ASAP.

Conclusion

Provided that youve replaced the worn shocks, bushings or relevant suspension component, driving on a cupped tire will eventually smooth it out to some extent. But thats like saying that sooner or later the wind will eventually erode mountains. True, it will, but itll also erode the valleys between the mountains and create low-lying dips in the landscape. Its a game of time and specific conditions, and one youre probably going to lose. Considering the likelihood and consequences of tire failure after cupping, youre best off replacing the cupped tire sooner rather than later.

Airless sprayers work by pumping out paint from a small tip on a spray gun. There are no air compressors, nor is air involved in any way to move the paint. Airless sprayers are very efficient and will apply paint very quickly over a large area. If you are using an airless sprayer to paint your car, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Instructions

1

Cover all areas of your car that are not to be painted. An airless sprayer is not as easy to control as a brush, so do not take any chances that you may accidently spray a mirror or glass. When spraying, the airless sprayer paint will create a cloud of paint that will settle. Wear a protective covering.

2

Keep the spray gun aimed at the area that you want to paint. Never point it towards yourself. Move your hand in a horizontal motion while spraying. Do not stop to spray as you will create a heavy concentration of paint in one area.

3

Begin moving your hand from side to side. Once you have a steady motion, begin to pull the trigger.

4

Release the trigger before stopping motion of your hands when you are ready to quit painting.

5

Clean the sprayer so that no paint builds up and dries up inside.

The headlight switch assembly on the dash of your 2008 Dodge Dakota does more then just turn the lights on and off; do not put off replacing a faulty switch. The switch controls the interior lights, the dash lights, parking or running lights and the headlights. A faulty switch will often cause other functions to fail; if the switch fails altogether, youll find yourself with no headlights at all and unable to drive your truck. Look for replacement switches at any auto parts retailer or your local Dodge dealer.

Instructions

1

Locate the retaining screws on the instrument panel of your Dakota, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Pop the bezel off the instrument panel using a flat-blade screwdriver. Set the bezel aside for safekeeping.

2

Locate the three retaining bolts on the face of the headlight switch assembly---two on the outboard edge and one on the inboard side---then remove them using a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside for reuse during installation.

3

Slide the headlight switch assembly forward until you can reach the electrical connector on the rear of the assembly. Press the locking tab in on the connector, and separate the connector from the rear of the headlight switch. Pull the headlight switch out of the dash, and discard it.

4

Slide the new headlight switch assembly into the dash far enough to allow the electrical connector to reach it. Push the connector onto the back of the switch, ensuring that the locking tab engages completely.

5

Push the switch in place, and install the three retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet until they are just snug enough to hold the switch securely but wont crack its plastic casing.

6

Position the instrument panel bezel in place, snapping it into the retaining clips. Install the retaining screws and tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver only until they are just snug enough not hold the bezel in place without damaging it.

7

Turn on the headlight switch, and cycle the headlights through the high- and low-beam positions several times to ensure a successful repair.

While a catalytic converter is designed to last 10 years or more, several variables can make it die sooner. Nowadays, vehicles employ more than one converter, which increases the chances of internal or external problems. When catalytic converters were integrated for emissions control, they converted harmful hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into cleaner emissions. Three-way converters are now used to additionally control and convert nitrogen oxides. Oxygen sensors now monitor the efficiency of each converter on every vehicle.

The External Converter

The external shell and attachments of the catalytic converter is relatively simple to monitor. If damage occurs to the external components, the exhaust will leak from the compromised shell and emit a loud noise. Premature damage to the converter can occur from undercarriage incidents. Also pipe connections or flange connections are common areas that deteriorate from age and existing in hostile environments. Not only will the noise alert the driver that there is a problem with the converter, but performance issues can arise from an external exhaust leak from the catalytic converter. Lower exhaust back pressure can cause engine performance problems as well as trigger the oxygen sensor monitoring the converter to misread the information its designed for.

The Internal Converter

The average temperature an exhaust system operates under is 1,200 to 1,600 degrees Fahrenheit. The internal structure of the converter is made of platinum and palladium honeycomb that filters and chemically alters the exhaust emissions. As pollutants increase in the exhaust, so does the operating temperature of the internal structure. At 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit, the structure will begin to weaken or melt, reducing its efficiency to convert harmful gases into less harmful pollutants. The platinum and palladium honeycomb will begin to melt into the ceramic substrate. When this occurs, the structure can break down or clog the converter, which results in little to no back pressure flow through the converter.

The oxygen sensor will fail to register the efficiency of the converter and transmit the communication to the computer of the vehicle. In addition, little to no back pressure will result in a poor-performing engine. When exhaust is prohibited from exiting the combustion engine properly, it will choke on its own exhaust or stop altogether.

Engine Performance

Rarely does a converter break down internally on its own. Replacing a clogged or compromised converter may simply mean placing a bandage on a gaping wound. Exhaust from a combustion engine expels and recirculates unburned fuel and oxygen necessary to allow the engine to operate properly. A perfect fuel-to-air ratio exists for a combustion engine to function, and when that ratio is compromised, other components in the engine and exhaust system can and will fail.

Unburned fuel is a leading contributor to causing a catalytic converter to fail internally. So replacing the converter only temporarily solves the problem. When the engine is not performing as it should, its only a matter of time before it damages the new converter. Diagnose any and all diagnostic trouble codes before replacing a catalytic converter to preserve and enhance its performance and effectiveness.

A 2002 Ford pickup is equipped with an On-Board Diagnostic II (OBD II) computer. This computer reads trouble codes sent from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle, and it keeps track of when the pickup needs to be serviced. When you see the Service Engine Soon light illuminate on your instrument panel, this is information being sent to you from the vehicles computer. Make sure you service the engine first before you attempt to reset and turn off the light. Otherwise the light will just keep turning back on and it wont accurately keep track of when your vehicle needs servicing.

Instructions

1

Lift up the hood of the pickup and prop it open. Remove the battery cable from the negative side of the battery using a 1/2-inch end wrench. Let the truck sit for about five minutes. Put the cable back in place and close the hood.

2

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Look at your instrument panel to see if the Service Engine Soon light turned off. If it didnt turn off, go to an auto parts store and buy an OBD-II code scanner to reset the light.

3

Plug the connector on the OBD-II code scanner into the port to the left under the steering column. Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on but dont start the engine. Key into your scanner your pickups make, model and engine size.

4

Wait for the trouble code for Service Engine Soon to appear on the scanner. When it does, press "delete." Remove the scanner from the port and start the engine. The light should now turn off.

General Motors makes a wide variety of trucks for the consumer, but all of them rely on gas and a battery to start. If you are having problems starting your GM truck, you can troubleshoot the problem by taking a look at these two components. When your battery has a low charge or is dead, the trucks motor will not be able to fire up. GM trucks require gasoline to run, so a low fuel tank could be the culprit to your truck not starting.

Instructions

1

Turn the key in your GM truck to get the gauge readings. Check the fuel level and make sure you have enough fuel to start the truck. Add fuel if needed.

2

Pop the hood on the GM truck and locate the battery. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the battery terminals from the battery. Clean the battery terminals with a wire brush and a can of soda if corrosion has set in.

3

Reattach the battery terminals to the battery and start the truck.

4

Jump start the truck with jumper wires and another vehicle. Allow the truck to run for about five minutes and then turn it off.

5

Try to restart the truck. If the truck doesnt restart, you will need to replace your battery.

Fluid dynamics is a complex subject; every time you think you understand one aspect of it, it seems as though youve missed some tiny, all-too-pertinent detail that will make or break the entire construct. Such is the case with spoilers, splitters, wings, ramps, canards and air dams. While the layman might use these terms interchangeably, the fact is that they all act in different ways in terms of their effects on a cars high-speed stability, handling balance and fuel economy.

What Spoiler?

Technically speaking, theres no such thing as a front spoiler; and to the extent that there is, its called an "air dam." By definition, a spoiler "spoils" existing airflow patterns on a cars body to smooth airflow and reduce drag. Theyre not intended to block airflow, create downforce (the opposite of lift) or establish new airflow patterns, all of which a front "spoiler" does. While it may seem a bit semantic, this concept is key to understanding how different types of front aerodynamics -- often collectively and incorrectly erred to as spoilers -- affect performance and fuel economy.

Air Dams

The simplest and most common type of front spoiler is called an air dam, and it does just what it sounds like it does. An air dam is just a piece of bodywork that extends downward from the front bumper and reduces the amount of air flowing under the car. This does two things; first, it keeps high-speed air from "catching" on protuberances under the car and creating drag, and it reduces lift by decreasing the amount of potential energy going under the car. An air dam would ideally scrape the ground as you drive, and will generally improve the cars fuel efficiency and high speed stability.

Splitters

Though often used in conjunction with an air dam, a splitter is an entirely different animal. A splitter is a thin, flat, horizontal "shelf" extending frontward from the bottom of the air dam. Normally, air encountering the bottom of the air dam would have to pressurize and become turbulent before it splits and goes either under the car, over the hood or around the sides. A splitter acts like a knife, cleanly cleaving the airflow in two so that it remains laminar, or straight and turbulence-free. A splitter -- often erred to as the "front wing" -- creates a powerful pocket of pressurized air in front of the bumper, which shoves the front of the car down and creates downforce.

Downforce and Fuel Economy

Downforce and lift will always hurt a cars fuel economy because they force the car to expend energy doing something it doesnt need to do -- namely, to either compress the springs or try to fly. The longer a front splitter is, the larger the air pocket it can contain and the more downforce it will produce; good for grip at high speeds, but bad for fuel economy. Additionally, any angled surface on the front bumper that directs airflow upward -- an angled splitter, a ramp or the wing-like canard -- will generally hurt fuel economy by increasing frontal pressure and downforce.

Exceptions

There are a few exceptions to the "air dam helps economy, downforce hurts it" rule. Canards are one of them. A small canard strategically mounted on the corner of an air dam helps to control airflow over the sides of the car, which keeps it out of the wheel-wells and impacts where it will end up behind the car. This can reduce the cars total drag, which may offset the frontal pressure increase caused by the canard. A splitter extending well under the car will act as a partial "belly pan," increasing air velocity under the engine and reducing total drag.

Often, if your vehicle will not start, the first thing to examine is the battery. Vehicles require a battery to not only start the car, but also to run the accessories such as the headlights and interior lights. While the car is running, the alternator charges the battery so that it can continue to function. If headlights or interior lights are left on for a prolonged period of time while the car is off, it could drain the battery. A dead battery can be recharged using another car or an automatic battery charger, which requires an electrical outlet.

Instructions

1

Add enough water to the battery cells so that the battery acid covers the internal plates. Refer to the documentation included with your battery or contact the battery manufacturer for specific instructions on adding water to the battery.

2

Ensure that the automatic battery charger is set to the "Off" position and that all accessories in the vehicle are switched to the "Off" position.

3

Clip the red connection to the positive terminal on the battery. The positive terminal is marked with a "+" sign and is typically red.

4

Clip the black connection to the frame of the vehicle or to the vehicles engine block.

5

Set the voltage and rate switches to the proper settings if the charger has this function. Look on the battery, or contact the battery manufacturer for the proper settings for your particular battery.

6

Plug the automatic battery charger into the grounded outlet, then turn the device to the "On" position. Allow the charger to charge the battery until the meter on the automatic battery charger shows that the battery is charged. Do not at any point touch the clips or the battery while the battery is charging. A chart containing the recommended charge times for specific types of batteries has been included in the References section.

7

Turn the automatic battery charger to the "Off" position once the battery is charged, then unplug the unit from the grounded electrical outlet.

8

Disconnect the charger from the battery and car and attempt to start the vehicle.

In 1955, the Chevrolet division of General Motors developed the companys first small block V-8 engine. The initial 1955 265-cubic-inch V-8 motor produced 180 horsepower and quickly became popular among consumers. Further developments to the engine included increased displacement, fuel injection, enhanced cylinder head designs and intake configurations. Due to the wide variety of applications of this engine, identifying your particular small block Chevy is important when ordering replacement parts or gaining specifications information

Instructions

1

Open the vehicles hood and examine the engine compartment from the passenger side.

2

Find the engine code stamped on the upper portion of the engine block, below the cylinder head, near the mounting bracket for the alternator. The engine code consists of eight numbers and letters that will provide pertinent information about the engine.

3

Write the engine code down on a piece of paper.

4

Examine the first letter in the code. The first letter determines the manufacturing plants location. The second, third, fourth and fifth number positions in the code signify the day and month of manufacture.

5

Examine the remaining two or three-letter block of code. The block of letters at the end of the code represent the engines displacement, horsepower rating, specific vehicle application and fuel induction type.

6

Decode the first letter of the code using an online Chevy Engine Code Information Web page. Scroll down and click on the appropriate code suffix link, under the "Small Block Engine Suffix Code Menu" heading.

7

Locate the matching suffix code on the Web page to gain specific information concerning the engine. You also have the option of contacting the service department at a local Chevrolet dealer. Ask the service department representative to provide information regarding the engine code.

You can reset the Lexus trouble codes at home in your garage, saving yourself time and money. If you dont have an OBD scan tool, you can reset the codes using just a wrench and about a half hour of your time. The Lexus comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer that stores the trouble codes and alerts you via warning and service lights on your instrument panel. Only reset the codes after you have had the vehicle serviced or repaired. Resetting them prematurely will only result in the service and warning lights turning themselves back on.

Instructions

1

Park on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Shut off the engine and pop up the hood.

2

Look for a retaining bolt on the negative battery cable clamp. Loosen this nut with a wrench and slip the clamp off the battery post. Make sure the clamp doesnt touch the positive side of the battery or any metal surface.

3

Wait for 30 minutes for the electricity to drain out of the computer.

4

Put the negative cable clamp back onto the negative battery post and tighten the bolt. Lower the hood and start the engine. Notice that all service and warning lights are off. Drive for 45 minutes or longer to allow the computer to reprogram itself.

The 5.0L engine is one of the most dependable and rugged engines that the Ford Motor Company has ever offered. Although it is a dependable workhorse, even the best engines parts occasionally fail. This is true of the front seal, located inside the timing cover on this particular engine. In order to replace the seal when it starts leaking, it is necessary to remove the timing cover. Although it sounds like a big job, most people with a little mechanical knowledge can do it in their own garage.

Instructions

1

Slip a drain pan beneath the radiator. Open the radiator cap Use a pair of pliers to loosen the petcock at the bottom of the radiator by turning it counterclockwise until it rotates freely. Spin the petcock counterclockwise until it is fully open, allowing the coolant to drain from the radiator.

2

Remove the bolts that connect the oil pan to the engine block by attaching a socket from a socket wrench set to any combination of ratchet wrench and extensions that are necessary to reach each bolt, and turning them counterclockwise until they are free of the engine block. Remove the oil pan.

3

Remove the crankshaft bolt by putting the correct size socket wrench on the ratchet and turning the bolt counterclockwise until it is free of the crankshaft. Slide the dampener and crankshaft pulley, which is bolted to the damper, off the end of the crankshaft.

4

Remove the bolts holding the water pump to the engine block with the ratchet wrench and the appropriate sized socket. Remove the water pump.

5

Remove the bolts attaching the timing cover of the 5.0 L engine to the engine block with the ratchet wrench, and/or extensions in the appropriate sized socket wrench. Remove the timing cover from the engine.

If the power doors on your Toyota Sienna stick or stop responding, you may need to recalibrate the doors by resetting the power door system. You can reset the power door system at home to save the time spent at a dealership service center. Resetting the system will reprogram the battery and computer chip so that the doors respond to the door controls.

Instructions

1

Press the sliding door control button on the Siennas dashboard so that the red line on the button is illuminated. Close the sliding doors.

2

Raise the hood of the van, and disconnect the negative ("-") battery cable with a wrench. Wait 3 to 5 minutes, then reconnect the cable.

3

Press the "Open" button on the remote key fob to open the sliding doors. Close the door. Wait 10 seconds, then open the door with the remote again.

4

Close the door, and wait 10 seconds. Open the door with the remote a third time. Once the third cycle completes, the power door battery is reset.

Catalytic Converter Removal

In order to remove titanium material from inside a vehicles catalytic converter, the converter must first be removed completely from the vehicles exhaust system. Normally, catalytic converter removal is accomplished by unscrewing the bolts that bolt a converter to the exhaust system or by cutting off the converter with a saw or welding torch. Complete removal of a catalytic converter from a vehicle allows easy access to its inner catalyst material--the part that contains the titanium pieces. After removing the titanium pieces (along with the catalyst material), the catalytic converter is no longer legal for vehicle use and must be discarded.

Removal of Catalyst Material

After removing a catalytic converter from a vehicle, the next step toward removing the inner titanium pieces is to remove the catalytic converters catalyst material thats located deep inside the converter. These catalyst pieces, which look very similar to small pieces of charcoal, are the parts of a catalytic converter that burn the unburned exhaust gases as exhaust flows through a catalytic converter. These pieces can be removed simply by standing the catalytic converter lengthwise up--one open end facing up, the other end facing the ground--and tapping and pounding on the raised end until the catalyst pieces start to fall out of the bottom end. This process normally takes only a few minutes to retrieve all the pieces.

Manual Removal of Titanium Pieces

After the catalytic converter catalyst material has been removed from inside, the titanium--which is used as a coating on the catalyst material--can easily be removed. The titanium normally appears as a silvery bronze coating atop the catalyst pieces. It can be scraped and/or gouged off each individual titanium piece by using a small knife, spoon or small instrument. A small rag or cup can be used to gather the removed titanium pieces. This can take quite awhile on some of the larger, more expensive catalytic converter models with large amounts of both catalyst material and titanium coating.

Locking hubs provide four-wheel drive vehicles with the ability to adjust to different road conditions. Disengage the locking hub so the vehicles front wheels turn freely for street driving, and engage it to connect them to drive line for traveling off-road. You can purchase manual or automatic locking hubs. As with most mechanical parts, an owner eventually may need to replace the hubs due to breakdown and normal wear and tear. Off-road driving causes stress-related damage to most car parts, including the hubs. If you have some car repair experience you can change the locking hubs yourself at a low cost.

Instructions

Removing the Old Locking Hub

1

Put on the work gloves and turn off the engine. Place your car in "Park" if you have an automatic transmission or "Neutral" for manual and put on the emergency brake.

2

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel with the tire wrench. Use the floor jack to raise the car and place the jack stand beneath the frames outer edge. Take off the lug nuts with the tire iron and set the wheel aside.

3

Remove the hub cover using the appropriate socket wrench. Find the two snap ring holes in the hub. Insert the snap ring pliers into the snap rings and pull them out. Detach the drive flange from the axle assembly with the socket wrench.

4

Take off the six nuts securing the hub body to the axle. Tap the hub lightly with a hammer to help remove the gasket. Pull the old locking hub from the axle.

Installing the New Locking Hub

5

Apply carburetor cleaner to the axle mating surface. Use the gasket scraper to remove remaining gasket material and build up. Wipe all the cleaner and other particles from the surface with a rag. Apply silicon sealant on the axle mating surface. Avoid putting sealant in the thread holes.

6

Coat the bottom of the new locking hub. Align the locking hub body with the axle mating surface. Install the six nuts by hand. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts according to the specifications in your owners manual. Remove excess silicon sealant with a rag.

7

Install the new drive flange and fasten the snap rings into place with the pliers. Apply a small coating of sealant on the outside edge of the hub body and attach the new gasket.

8

Replace the hub cover using the socket wrench. Use a rag to remove excess sealant that may have leaked.

9

Put the front wheel back on the axle and secure loosely with the lug nuts. Use the floor jack to remove the jack stand and lower the car. Use the torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts according to the specifications in your owners manual.

FLH is a venerable Harley code for a heavy duty motorcycle with big forks and a big twin engine. Subsequent letters in the code often describe marketing more than engineering. You can pull the batwing outer fairing off all Electra Glides, or FLHs, after you remove seven screws and disconnect the headlight. Removing the outer fairing allows you to access much of the front wiring harness.

Instructions

1

Pad the front fender with shop rags to protect the paint. Locate and remove the three screws on the front of the bike just below the windshield with a Torx wrench.

2

Loosen and remove the screw on each side of the fairing just outside the speakers with a Torx wrench.

3

Remove the left fairing cap screw with a Torx wrench after fully turning the handlebars to the right. Turn the handlebars fully to the left and remove the right fairing cap screw.

4

Push the top of the fairing toward the front fender and pinch the headlight wiring connector to disconnect the headlight assembly from the front wiring harness.

5

Remove the outer fairing and the headlight from the motorcycle. Remove the windshield.

Thread damage commonly occurs when cutting bolts, making the bolts difficult to start in a nut or threaded hole. Bolts made of certain materials, such as stainless alloys, will have a tendency to gall and bind if the bolt threads are damaged during cutting operations. Preserve the shape and pitch of the threads -- particularly the starter thread -- to prevent the bolt from binding in the hole. Maintain the threads during cutting by using proper techniques and tools.

Instructions

1

Install a die of the proper diameter and pitch on the bolt to be cut. Thread the die all the way down to the bolt head or shoulder.

2

Install a nut of the proper diameter and pitch onto the bolt. Thread the nut down the bolt until the bottom edge of the nut is on the desired cut location.

3

Grasp the bolt firmly above the nut and brace your hand against a firm surface to hold the bolt steady for cutting. Cut the bolt off, using a hacksaw. Use the bottom edge of the nut as a guide to make certain the cut stays square and perpendicular to the bolt.

4

Remove the nut from the bolt.

5

Grind a 45-degree chamfer on the cut end of the bolt to remove any spurs from the starter thread, using a grinder. Do not grind the chamfer beyond the first thread.

6

Rotate the die off the bolt to clean up any remaining spurs and make certain the threads are correctly shaped.

7

Remove loose metal shavings from the bolt, using a chip brush.

Toyota Rav4s have two catalytic converters. The front one is bolted directly to the manifold in the front of the exhaust system and the second one bolts directly to that. In most cases, the converter that fails will be the rear converter. Converters fail after a while clogging, breaking down internally (which is a result of clogging and overheating), and have inlet or outlet pipes that crack or leak exhaust. Having to replace them requires experience.

Instructions

How to Replace a Toyota Rav 4 Front Catalytic Converter

1

Put the Toyota Rav4 on a car lift and bring all the way up. Put all the listed tools into the tool cart and wheel it near you where its out of the way but where you can access the tools easily. To remove the five nuts going to the manifold, set up the ratchet with a long extension, the swivel, and a socket. In some cases if the nuts are deteriorated, you may need to switch the socket for a nut extractor.

2

Put on the safety glasses and light the torch with the striker. Heat up the nuts with the torch, being caul not to heat the studs up as well. Its a tight area and youll have to know how to handle a torch and adjust the level of flame to be small enough to do the job but hot enough succeed. When the nut is cherry red in color, turn off the torch and remove it with the ratchet, extension, swivel, and socket or nut extractor. Carry on this procedure for the other four nuts.

3

Light the torch and cut the two or three bolts (some of the rear converters have a three-bolt inlet and some have two of the Rav4s) out of the rear flange. Cut them from the front converter side so you do not incur any damage to the rear converter. When the bolts are cut with the torch flush to the flange, turn off the torch, put on the safety gloves, and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange with a punch and hammer. Be ready to get out of the way or catch the front converter as it will drop out as soon as its free.

4

Allow the system to cool down. Install the top of the front converter with a new gasket to the manifold by threading on some new nuts by hand. Tighten them one at a time with the pneumatic gun, extension (either small or long), swivel, and socket until theyre tight.

5

Insert the gasket to the rear of the front converter flange connection and attach with the hardware (bolts, nuts, washers). Tighten with the gun, the small extension (if needed), swivel, and hold the head of the nuts in place with a hand wrench. Remove the cart and tools and any debris on the floor, lower the Rav4, and start it up to check for any possible exhaust leaks.

How to Replace a Toyota Rav 4 Rear Catalytic Converter

6

With the Rav4 raised on a lift, locate the oxygen sensor bolted to the rear converter. Follow the wire to the plug and separate it by unplugging it. You may need the screwdriver to press in the clip lock. As with the front converter, load the tools into the cart and have nearby.

7

Put on the safety glasses and light the torch with the striker. Cut the bolts from the front flange connection with the torch. Cut them from the rear converter side of the flange to avoid damage to the front converter flange. When the bolts are cut flush to the flange, turn off the torch and knock them out with a punch and hammer. Repeat this step for the rear converter to rear exhaust pipe flange. Be caul when the last bolt gets punched through. The converter will want to drop, but youll notice its still affixed to a rubber exhaust hanger. Remove the hook of the converter from the hanger.

8

Remove the bolts from the oxygen sensor studs. They may be deteriorated and you may need the extractor nuts to help you. Dont worry about the nuts or studs and damaging them. Youre going to replace the nuts and the studs are part of the converter. There will be new studs on the new converter. All you need is the oxygen sensor.

9

Insert the oxygen sensor into the new converter. Replace gasket (equipped with new converter) and nuts and tighten with the ratchet, extension, and a socket.

10

Place the hook on the new converter through the rubber hanger and attach the front flange to the front converter with gasket and hardware (bolts, washers, nuts). Attach the rear flange of the converter to the rear exhaust pipe flange with the gasket and hardware. Tighten the bolts and nuts with the gun, swivel, socket, and a hand wrench. Plug the oxygen sensor back into the plug. Remove the cart, tools, and any debris, lower the Rav4 and start the engine to check for any possible exhaust leaks.

Tie rod ends endure a great deal of movement. Movement causes wear, especially if the tie rod does not receive regular maintenance. Lack of lubrication and foreign elements, such as dirt and grit around the ball, can cause tie rod ends to fail prematurely. A ripped or missing dust boot allows dirt and grit to enter the rod end and grind away at the metal. Other problems arise when a vehicle hits a pot hole or is involved in an accident. The shaft of the tie rod becomes misaligned when bent, creating greater tire wear.

Instructions

Raise the Front End

1

Block both the rear wheels behind the tires, and apply the emergency brake while parked on a solid, level surface.

2

Raise the front of the vehicle by placing a jack under the center of the cross member and jacking it up.

3

Insert two jack stands, one under each side of the front frame close to the wheels.

4

Place another two blocks, one on the front side of each rear wheel, to prevent the vehicle from moving forward.

Inspect the Tie Rod Ends

5

Spray brake cleaner on all the tie rod ends, and wipe clean with a shop rag.

6

Inspect the dust boots on all the tie rod ends for cracks or tears.

7

Grab each tie rod end component and physically move it to check for stiff joints or excess play.

8

Unlock the steering wheel, and have it turned back and forth while visually checking for excess movement in all the tie rods connected to the steering components.

9

Inspect all tie rod ends for physical damage, like scrapes, gouges, and bends.

10

Grease every tie rod end, and inspect the grease that is pushed out of the boot for dirty grit-filled grease or water.

11

Inspect every tie rod end for a cotter pin or lock nut.

Dodge Dakotas use a rack-and-pinion power steering system. This system uses a pump to drive power steering fluid to the rack-and-pinion. A pulley that runs on the accessory drive belt powers the pump. If the pulley is damaged, the pump will not move fluid into the steering system and the pulley must be replaced. In order to replace the pulley, you must first remove it from the power steering pump.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagram on the underside of your hood that depicts the drive belt routing. Use this diagram to help locate your idler pulley. This will be the lower of the two pulleys on the far right.

2

On the left-hand side of the idler pulley assembly, locate the tension adjusting bolt. Using a wrench, loosen the bolt until you can move the idler pulley assembly enough to relieve tension on the drive belt.

3

Locate the power steering pump pulley. This is the uppermost of the two pulleys on the far right, located above the idler pulley. Remove the drive belt from around the pulley.

4

Place the pulley puller on the power steering pulley. Place the arms of the puller behind the pulley and align the threaded end with the center of the pulley. Turn the nut on the shaft by hand until it is tight.

5

Place a socket and ratchet on the bolt head end of the pulley puller. Hold the ratchet in place and place a wrench on the nut you hand-tightened in Step 4. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to move the threaded shaft into the power steering pulley.

6

Continue to turn the nut until the pulley comes loose from the power steering pump. Remove the pulley from the engine compartment and turn the nut clockwise until the puller shaft comes free of the pulley.

The indicators on a car or motorcycle need to be functional in order for the vehicle to be road-worthy. Making turns or changing lanes without informing other road users can be very dangerous. If one of your indicators has a burned or broken contact, it will be necessary to repair it. Removing the contact and replacing it with a new one is a far more cost effective solution than replacing the whole indicator.

Instructions

1

Turn off the ignition and remove the contact clips from the battery. Use the screwdriver to remove any mounting screws holding the indicator assembly to the body. It should lift out as one complete unit.

2

The indicator assembly consists of a front and rear half, which are usually held together by means of a sprung plastic clip bridging the two halves. Locate the clip and press it using the blade of the screwdriver. The two halves will separate, revealing the inside of the indicator.

3

Unscrew the bulb and lift it out of the assembly. With the back of the assembly removed, you should be able to see the wiring. Locate the burned or broken contact.

4

Heat up the soldering iron and hold it to the base of the contact. The metal tab of the contact is held in place by a plastic spade clip, but the soldered electrical connection at the base must be released to remove it from the plastic clip. Melt the solder, taking care not to touch the plastic ridges at the edge.

5

Grip the end of the contact with the needle-nose pliers and pull it toward you, it should slide out from the clip, allowing you to replace it with a fresh one.

The clutch is one of the most important parts of any vehicle, letting you shift gears and adjust your speed. When your Nissan Frontiers clutch is working properly, you get the most control out your truck especially while you are driving out in the open roads. All clutches, however, will need replacement at one point or the other. Once your Nissan starts to screech and grind each time you use the clutch, you need to either replace a defective part in your clutch system, or replace the entire clutch system with a clutch kit.

Instructions

1

Lift the truck. Use a hydraulic jack to life the truck. If your truck has a front wheel drive system, lift the front wheels. If your truck has a rear wheel drive system, lift the rear wheels. Support the weight of the truck with a jack stand.

2

Remove the axle. Unscrew the bolts that keep the driveshaft to the differential with a wrench. Once the bolts are removed, you can slip the driveshaft from the universal joint in the differential. Make sure that the wire caps on the universal joint and the driveshaft do not hit the ground, because impact can damage the sensitive pieces. Place a pan underneath the transmission tail housing to protect your floor from dripping transmission fluid.

3

Unwire the harnesses. Unscrew the housing on the transmission and remove any wires that keep the transmission harnessed. Mark all of the wires so that you know where to connect them after you are done fixing the clutch. Also remove the starter which is connected by a wire to the transmission.

4

Support the engine. Place a jack stand under the engine, so that you will be able to take the transmission mount out of the cross member. Once the cross member is free, you can remove the bolts around the transmission bell housing. This will allow you to pull the transmission from the rest of the engine. Do this until the pressure plate is revealed from under the input shifts.

5

Remove the transmission. Unscrew the bolts that keep the flywheel attached to the pressure plate and then remove the transmission fully. Make sure that the flywheel is not damaged, otherwise it needs to be replaced. Also be sure to wipe the crankshaft flange clean.

6

Replace the clutch. Attach the new pressure plate onto the flywheel. Once attached, you can insert the clutch disc and then tighten using the appropriate amount of torque indicated in the packaging of the clutch replacement kit that you bought. Add a bit of grease on the bearings so that you can add the release bearing to the clutch disc.

7

Put parts back in place. Insert the transmission back into place, until the shaft from the transmission enters the hole in the clutch disc. Install the bell housing again using bolts, and then gently lower the truck back onto the ground.

The 1984 GMC S-15 truck with the six-cylinder, 2.8-liter engine is carbureted instead of fuel-injected. As such, the fuel pump on this truck is mounted on the side of the engine block and driven by a cam on the camshaft. If the fuel pump isnt working properly, you can experience poor performance, stalling, and even backfiring. You can change the fuel pump n the 1984 S-15 in about an hour to two hours in your front yard.

Instructions

1

Slide the jack under the front frame cross member, and lift the truck until there is enough room for you to comfortably slide under.

2

Place the jack stands under the frame behind both front wheels, and caully lower the truck onto them. Remove the jack.

3

Slide under the truck, and locate the pump on the lower left front side of the engine. Tag the fuel lines if they are both threaded fittings so you know which line goes where.

4

Remove the fuel lines from the pump. Most fuel pumps will have two threaded fittings; remove these using the flare nut wrenches and turning the fittings counterclockwise. If either of the connections has a rubber hose clamped to it, squeeze the clamp with the pliers, and slide it back on the hose a few inches. Grasp the fuel line, and twist and pull it off the pump nipple.

5

Remove the bolts securing the fuel pump to the block by turning them counterclockwise with the ratchet and socket. Remove the fuel pump by pulling it away from the engine.

6

Clean the block side mating surface of all remnants of the old gasket using the gasket scraper.

7

Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to both the block and pump mating surfaces. Apply the gasket to block mating surface.

8

Hold the new fuel pump in place, and insert the bolts in the bolt holes, and turn them clockwise by hand. Tighten these bolts to 15 foot-pounds with the ratchet and socket.

9

Reattach the fuel lines to the pump. For threaded fittings, thread the fittings into the new pump by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to 15 foot-pounds using the flare nut wrench. If so equipped, slip the rubber fuel line over the nipple. Squeeze the clamp, and slide it over the nipple.

10

Slide the jack back under the front cross member, and lift the truck off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands, and lower the truck. Start the truck, and verify there are no leaks.

An auto body repair or restoration project can often come to a sudden halt if welding is required. Welding requires extensive specialist knowledge and expensive equipment that many enthusiasts might not have. There are also instances where auto body panels cannot be repaired by welding because of fire risks. This leaves car enthusiasts with little choice but to find an alternative method to execute the repair and there are some simple fabrication techniques that provide excellent results with the need for welding.

Instructions

1

Take a P80 sanding disc and place it onto the pad of a random orbital sander. Sand the damaged area thoroughly until a surface of bare metal has been exposed around the repair. Ensure that an additional two to three inches of additional exposed metal is sanded back beyond the area to be repaired. Paint edges should be feathered out to assist with the priming process at a later stage.

2

Mark a square two inches outside the damaged area with a metal scribe. Drill a half-inch hole into the middle of the square to allow access and use an air-fed nibbling tool to cut out the square, making sure that the guide stays just within the confines of the scribed line.

3

Take a panel flanging tool and create a flange around the cut area of the auto body panel. The flange needs to be deep so that the addition of a metal patch will produce a flush surface. Apply a light coating of zinc spray to all bare metal as a means of protecting against corrosion and while this is drying, find a suitable piece of scrap metal in the same gauge as the auto body panel and cut out a patch that will fit exactly into the flanged recess. Use a piece of cardboard to act as a template if required.

4

Lay the metal patch into the flanged hole and secure into place on the corners with masking tape. Take the drill and make a series of holes through the patch and the flanged area, making sure the patch stays in place. Two to three holes on each of the four edges of the square will be sufficient. The holes need to be big enough to accommodate the rivets you will be using in the next stage.

5

With the patch still held in place, insert rivets into the holes and activate the rivet gun so the metal patch is secured to the flanged recess. Complete all the way around the square until every hole has a rivet attached to keep the patch in place. Use a panel hammer to tap down any high spots and to ensure the heads of the rivets sit below the surface of the auto body panel.

6

Apply a coat of galvanized body fill over the repaired area. Leave the filler to dry then sand down with a flat block and P80 grit sanding paper. Several applications of body filler may be required before a completely flat surface is assured.