Repair And Fix it

Having properly functioning exhaust valves is an important part of automobile maintenance as poorly functioning exhaust valves can lead to excessive oil consumption, compression leaks, valvetrain noise and total valve failure. Exhaust valves are more susceptible to burning because they run hotter than the intake valves, averaging between 1,200 and 1,350 degrees Fahrenheit. Most of the time when exhaust valves are burned, they will cause losses in compression. Therefore, a good way to test for a burned exhaust valve is to run a compression test or leak-down test.

Ignition Misfire

A misfire can sometimes be an indication of a burned exhaust valve. Typical signs of a misfire include the engine shaking at idle, steering wheel vibration, or if the engine is difficult to start or stalls at start up. If this is happening, it could mean a loss of compression, which occurs when the cylinder has lost a large part of its air and fuel mixture before being ignited. If not a blown head gasket, misfires due to loss of compression usually mean there is a burned exhaust valve.

Power Loss

Power loss can be another indication of a burned exhaust valve. This is also linked to ignition misfires since a misfiring cylinder can sometimes cause up to 25 percent power loss. If your automobile is losing power, it could mean the exhaust valve is burned.

Puffing or Puttering Sound

A burned exhaust valve will often make noises that sound like a puff or putter. ImperialClub.com refers to it as a "chuff-chuff." These sounds go off each time the cylinder tries to fire. EconoFix.com points to a trick where car owners can hold a dollar bill and let it flap over the exhaust pipe. If it gets sucked in every so often, it is likely a burned exhaust valve.

Failed Emissions Test

If the exhaust pipe is burned, the engine will blow hydrocarbons out of the tailpipe. This will cause many vehicles to fail an emissions test. If your car has recently failed such a test, it could be a symptom of a burned exhaust valve.

When your car engine hesitates, rattles and shakes when you idle, it might be the result of air entering your engine. This will cause your car to run inefficiently and is typically caused by a vacuum leak. Finding the vacuum leak in the safest manner possible can be tricky, because it can be caused by a broken or cracked vacuum line, a leaking manifold, a leaking carburetor gasket, loose or missing carburetor crews, and open carburetor fittings.

Instructions

1

Start the vehicle and leave the engine idling. Maneuver your hand over the choke housing, cupping it to create an artificial choke.

2

Notice the idle speed after cupping the choke housing. If the idle speed increases, you have a leak.

3

Take a length of vacuum hose and place it by your ear. Place the other end near the running engine, and listen for the leak. Make sure you dont come close to the fan or the fan belts.

4

Mix cleaning solvent with auto transmission fluid, about 50-50, in a garden sprayer or a similar device. Spray this mixture all around the intake gasket. Youll notice an increase in engine speed, if a vacuum leak is present -- along with white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, from the automatic transmission fluid.

If a BMW radio is disabled, it is important to take the correct steps to fix it or the radio will not function properly. If a vehicle is stolen or if the battery dies and/or is replaced, the radio on the vehicle will reset and become disabled. This safety function is in place to deter potential criminals from stealing the vehicle and is meant as a safety mechanism for the owner.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicles personalized radio code in the cars manual. The radio code is usually located on a small white sticker on either the front or back cover of the owners manual.

2

Place the key into the ignition and turn the vehicle on. Turn on the power button for the radio.

3

Use the station preset buttons to enter the radio code into the system and press and hold the "Volume" button to complete the code. If entered correctly, the radio will become enabled and ready to use normally.

The ASE was established in 1972 as an independent certification agency for mechanics to provide consumers with a means of determining if a mechanic is qualified. The ASE offers over 40 different certification exams in different mechanical specialties. Beginning in 1993, the Environmental Protection Agency began requiring all mechanics servicing air conditioning systems in motor vehicles to become ASE 609 certified, indicating competence in the proper environmental handling of refrigerant. As of 2010, ASE 609 certification is available online for a fee of $15.

Instructions

1

Review the training materials provided by the ASE on its website (see Resources). Study the material until you are confident you know it.

2

Go to the ASE campus website (see Resources) and create a profile by selecting the "Create an ASE Campus profile to get started" on the drop-down box under the ASE Refrigerant Recovery & Recycling Program heading. Follow the directions provided to create a profile.

3

Login to the ASE campus website and follow the prompts to select and purchase the ASE Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling Program test.

4

Follow the prompts to complete the test; 24 of 30 questions must be answered correctly to pass the test and become certified.

Precisely locating an exhaust leak determines how it best can be sealed. Typical exhaust systems are clamped or welded at vital connection points. The nature of the exhaust system and the overall condition of the system determines when leaks can be sealed and when replacement parts must be installed. Wear safety glasses to prevent rust and dust associated with exhaust pipes from entering your eyes. Inspect for exhaust leaks with the vehicle running in a well-ventilated area.

Instructions

1

Inspect under the hood where the exhaust manifold meets the engine block. Look for soot or burned paint. Listen for hissing or popping noises, and inspect the manifold for cracks. Either replace the manifold gasket or if the manifold is cracked, replace the manifold itself.

2

Inspect where the manifold or header meets the exhaust pipe. A round graphite gasket often seals the exhaust at this joint. Look for soot, feel for hot gases, and listen for noise around the joint. Replace the gasket, if needed.

3

Turn on a flashlight and use it to examine the exhaust pipe under the vehicle, starting at the front and moving toward the rear bumper. Scrape rusty spots using the screwdriver to see if rust goes through the pipe, or is just on the surface. For large rusty areas use the joint pliers and attempt to gently "squish" the pipe. If it bends under light pressure, replace that section. If only a small hole is present, wrap muffler tape around the pipe, covering the hole to seal the leak.

4

Inspect the joints where pipe meets the catalytic converter and muffler. Listen for noises, and feel for hot gases. Test clamps for tightness if clamped, and replace rusted clamps if necessary. Inspect welds if welded, and test the integrity of the pipe on both sides of the component before attempting to re-weld.

5

Inspect the components themselves. If a catalytic converter or muffler has a hole in it, replace it. Most often, attempts at repairing these components are expensive and unsuccessful. Ensure that all clamps and hangers are tight, and reinspect for leaks after installation of new components.

The power steering assembly on your Mitsubishi has an input section, a section where work is done and finally an output section. If you know what components are present in your cars power steering system, itll be easier for you to understand how the system works.

The Input Section

Steering input is by way of the steering wheel. When you turn the wheel, a shaft in the steering column is also turned. This shaft is connected -- by way of a steering coupler/universal joint -- to the rack and pinion assembly, where your steering input is translated into side-to-side movement of the steering arms.

The Steering Rack

The power steering rack is where your steering input is translated into the side-to-side motion that turns the front wheels to turn the car. At the end of the steering column is the steering rack input shaft, which has a pinion gear at the end of it. As this gear rotates, it meshes with teeth on the steering rack, moving the rack in the required direction to turn the car.

The Output Section

The steering rack is coupled to the steering knuckle at each wheel by way of inner and outer tie rod ends, which allow for suspension travel and knuckle pivot.

Steering Assist

The addition of a hydraulic fluid is what adds the power to power steering. The pump sends fluid to the steering rack, where valves direct it in the proper direction to work against seals that help push and pull the rack when you turn the steering wheel.

Clevis pins provide a strong joint between two or more pieces of equipment while allowing the joint to pivot. One end of a clevis pin has a flat head and the other has a taper. The tapered end aligns the holes in parts as you drive the pin into the parts. A hole in the tapered end of the pin holds a cotter pin. This keeps the clevis pin from falling out of the pivot joint. However, corrosion and pressure often make it difficult to remove a clevis pin from secured parts.

Instructions

1

Spray penetrating oil on the visible length of the clevis pin. Allow the penetrating oil to sit on the pin for five to six hours.

2

Grasp the circular end of the cotter pin (located on the tapered side of the clevis pin) with a pair of needle nose pliers. Pull the cotter pin away from the shaft of the clevis pin. Set the cotter pin aside.

3

Insert the flat end of a pry bar under the lowest part of the pivot joint. Push on the end of the pry bar to release pressure from the clevis pin shaft.

4

Align the tapered end of a drift pin with the tapered end of the clevis pin. Hit the flat end of the drift pin with a hammer to drive the drift pin against the clevis pin. Continue hitting the end of the drift pin until the clevis pin pops from the secured parts.

5

Grasp the flat head of the clevis pin with self-locking pliers. Pull the clevis pin away from the part while twisting the pin in a circular motion.

In 1991, Harley-Davidson shipped motorcycles with two radically different styles of forks. Springer Softail models shipped with "springer" forks, or what old-timers call "new style springer" forks. The ones Harley shipped include two exposed coil springs and a shock absorber. Most of the motorcycles Harley shipped in 1991, though, had telescoping tube forks of several widths and tube diameters. These forks are hydraulic shock absorbers, and the only service Harley recommends is that you change the fork oil every 20,000 miles. There are a half dozen methods for changing fork oil in these forks; this is a method of which Harley-Davidson approves.

Instructions

1

Loosen the fork cap on top of the left fork with a 1-3/8 inch open-end wrench or a large adjustable wrench. Remove the fork cap, washer and O-ring.

2

Remove the drain plug on the bottom, side or back of the fork slider assembly with a Phillips head screwdriver. Drain the fork oil into a pan.

3

Coat the drain plug threads with Teflon paste. Replace the plug into the drain hole and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver.

4

Measure the correct weight and amount of fork oil, as specified in the owners manual or shop manual, for your motorcycle into a pint measuring cup. Most 1991 Harleys will use about 11 ounces of 10-weight oil.

5

Stick a funnel into the top of the fork; pour the measured amount of oil into the funnel.

6

Reinstall the O-ring, washer and fork cap. Tighten the cap wrench securely with a 1-/38 inch open-end or adjustable wrench.

7

Repeat all these steps for the right fork.

Making its debut in 1998, the Toyota Sienna has always featured at least three oxygen sensors, due to the employment of its V-engine. A V-engine is shaped like a V and has an exhaust manifold on each side. Two upstream oxygen sensors monitor the fuel to air ratio before the exhaust hits the catalytic converter. Another sensor is installed in or to the rear of the converter to monitor its efficiency. If the Sienna features two converters, there will be four sensors installed on the minivan. One for each manifold and one for each converter.

Finding the Right Sensor

When an oxygen sensor fails, it will trigger the malfunction indicator light (commonly known as the check engine light) on the instrument panel. Either read the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) with a scan tool or have it read at a local auto parts store. Most all scanners will reveal a DTC(s) with a letter and a number. This specific trouble code number can either be revealed with a brief description by the scanner or may have to be looked up in a on-board diagnostic trouble code list.

Any code that reveals a "sensor 1" problem will indicate it is one of the upstream sensors near the manifold. "Sensor 2" codes will reveal the problem is in the downstream sensor near the converter.

Bank locations are trickier, but not overly complicated. To locate "Bank 1, Sensor 1" simply find where the number one, three and five cylinders are on your Sienna. "Bank 2, Sensor 2" would indicate a problem with the downstream sensor on the number two, four and six cylinder side of the engine.

Replacing the Sensor(s)

While its not a bad idea to replace all the sensors when one fails, sometimes its financially burdening. This is where finding the right sensor comes into play. The front and rear sensors are not the same part numbers and are not interchangeable.

To replace the front sensor(s), lift the front end or the entire vehicle to gain access to the undercarriage of the exhaust system. Locate the sensor and disconnect the wire harness. Use a small screwdriver to depress the locking plug connection if necessary.

Next, use a 22mm wrench or an oxygen sensor socket and suitable ratchet. Sometimes on the front sensors, its difficult to get one tool or another onto them, so use what works best for you. Spray the threads of the sensor with a copious amount of lubricant spray, such as WD-40 or PB Blaster and allow it to soak in for a few minutes. Use the wrench or ratchet to loosen the sensor by turning it counterclockwise. A box-end wrench would work best because an open-end wrench could mar the hex-head shape of the sensor. Simply insert the detached wire through the box-end of the wrench before applying it to the hex-head. The oxygen sensor socket uses a slit down the side of the socket that accommodates the wire. Once the sensor is loose enough, finish removing it by hand.

The rear sensors are easier to access than the actual sensor, but Toyota places the plug connection under the carpet beneath the front seats. This requires opening the door and then removing the bottom door trim panel with a screwdriver. Set aside and reach underneath the carpet and towards the floorboard and then under the seat to obtain the plug. Once disconnected there, return to the undercarriage and simply pull the rubber gasket plug out from the floor board of the Sienna. The gasket holds the wire in place and prevents water from getting into the floor of the cab.

Once the wire is released, remove the oxygen sensor as you would have or already did the front ones.

Universal or Direct-Fit

There are two types of replacement sensors. Many companies try to promote the fact that youll save you money by purchasing universal sensors. These sensors require eliminating the plug connection on both sides of the wire harness. Next, match the wire colors up (which do not always match to the OEM wire harness) and butt connect. Since the rear sensors of the Sienna plug underneath the front seat and carpet, remove the seat to get enough room to perform this.

Compare the prices of the direct-fit sensors before deciding to save money with the universal. You might even find the direct-fit ones cheaper or a couple bucks more.

The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve on the 2006 Chrysler Town and Country regulates the ventilation of gases within the engine. When the PCV valve fails, emissions and gases may pass back into the engine instead of being locked into the exhaust system. Buy a replacement valve from a Chrysler dealer or auto parts specialty store and change it in seconds, saving the labor costs and the lost time spent in a service centers waiting room.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the vehicle. Locate the PCV valve on the top center of the valve cover.

2

Pull the hose off the top of the PCV valve. Pull the valve straight out of the valve cover.

3

Insert the new PCV valve straight into the valve cover. Push the rubber hose onto the top of the new PCV valve until it stops. Close the hood.

No matter how large or small, theres no such thing as a synthetic automobile. Whether its bituminous carbon, petroleum products or the amino acids used to produce many of the materials used in construction, a car has enough organic components that it is almost in itself a living organism. Rubber is one of the most versatile and obvious of your cars organic components, and can show up in some surprising places.

Tires

Ask any six-year-old to name something made of rubber on a car and most likely theyll point to those round, black things underneath it. However, your cars rolling stock actually contains far less rubber than you might think it does, about 15 to 20 percent by weight. The rest of the tire is made up of carbon black (an asphalt product), silicon dioxide (sand or glass), silicone and metal reinforcements.

Bushings and Isolators

Bushings are thick cylinders of rubber that surround a few of the crucial bolts in your suspension, most notably the control arm and steering component fixtures. Your vehicles suspension contains dozens of rubber bushings and isolators that keep road vibrations from transmitting through the metal components and into your spine. Soft rubber does the best job of isolating the driver, but bushings that are too soft will allow the suspension to squirm around instead of reacting in a controlled manner. Most racers do away with rubber bushings altogether and replace them with hard, polyurethane inserts.

Grommets and Plugs

Wires passing through the engine firewall, trunk wall or vehicle floor are typically surrounded with some sort of grommet where they pass through. The grommets keep sharp edges on the metal hole from cutting through the wires and causing a short. The National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) technically prohibits any car from using rubber firewall grommets or plugs, as they can burn uncontrollably in the event of an engine fire. However, the rule is rarely enforced since almost all modern production cars use them.

Fluid Lines

Some portion of your cars fuel, cooling, transmission cooler and power steering systems use rubber lines. These rubber lines are generally less than 24 inches long, and allow the engine to rock under torquing forces. Most production cars also use a short length of rubber in the brake lines to allow for suspension movement; even the braided steel lines that racers use are rubber on the inside.

Weatherstripping

Many modern cars use rubber-based weatherstripping to seal the windows, doors and trunk-lid. However, manufacturers have begun moving away from rubber weatherstripping in favor of plastic, urethane or foam-based alternatives.

For those who want to increase the speed of their golf game, they can make some simple adjustments to how fast their golf cart can go. In this case the piece that needs adjustment is called the ground speed governor, which will allow more power and speed to consume the engine at levels that surpass the original speeds of 5 to 10 miles per hour. With current technology, you can only take advantage of this for about five minutes after ignition.

Instructions

1

Raise the seat attached to the cart and unscrew the black plastic piece located at the end of the cart. Note that there are five screws that require unscrewing.

2

Remove the black plastic cover and look into the empty area that once had its seat in place. The governor appears in the scene of a spring apparatus that is hooked to the throttle cable. This device will consist of both a small and large nut.

3

Check the small nut to see that it is less tightened than the larger nut. The speed of the golf cart is greatly enhanced when the larger nut has been severely tightened.

4

Tighten the small nut immediately after determining the acceptable speed.

5

Re-screw the black plastic piece into the golf cart until the entire seat is back in place.

An exhaust leak can negatively effect the performance and efficiency of your vehicle, as well as lead to safety hazards for the driver and passengers. For this reason, you should diagnose and repair the exhaust system immediately when you experience symptoms of an exhaust leak. To eliminate leaks, the exhaust system must be free of piping damage, and all of the exhaust flange bolts must be extremely tight.

Safety Hazards

Exhaust gasses contain carbon monoxide and other chemicals that are hazardous to human health. The exhaust system is designed to expel these gasses out the rear of the vehicle while reducing noise. If an exhaust leak occurs somewhere along the exhaust system, the gasses can seep into the interior vehicle cabin. This can be hazardous, or even fatal to vehicle passengers due to the buildup of carbon monoxide.

Performance Issues

The exhaust system piping is designed to optimize volumetric efficiency for the engine. Since the expulsion of exhaust gasses is necessary with every combustion cycle, the exhaust system must allow for an unrestricted flow of gasses for maximum engine efficiency. An exhaust leak creates air turbulence in the exhaust piping, and also throws off the volumetric tuning of the exhaust system. Both of these effects lead to diminished engine performance, both in horsepower production and fuel efficiency.

Exhaust Noise

A leak creates excess exhaust noise due to the escaping gasses. This tends to create an air hissing noise audible when in close proximity to the leak location. Additionally, you may experience excess engine noise and/or popping sounds originating from the exhaust leak. While excess noise is undesirable, it has the positive effect of allowing you to easily locate and diagnose exhaust leaks.

Checking for Exhaust Leaks

Exhaust leaks caused by large cracks, rusting and other extensive damage can be diagnosed by visually inspecting the exhaust piping and connections. When checking the exhaust, pay especially close attention to the welding, as these are the most likely locations to crack due to stress and heat. Also, ensure the exhaust hangers are all securely connected to the underside of the vehicle, as loose hangers may allow the exhaust to rattle against the chassis, leading to further damage. Finally, check that the flange bolts securing each piping segment are extremely tight. If you still experience exhaust leaks after inspecting the exhaust system and bolts, replace the exhaust gaskets located at each flange connection.

A common sign of a bad blower motor resistor is when the fan motor refuses to operate on the lower speed settings, operating instead only in the full-on or full-off position. When properly functioning, the lower speed settings add resistance to the current, causing the motor to run slower. If youre having problems with the fan settings on your Honda Odyssey, it might be time to replace the blower motor resistor.

Instructions

1

Evacuate your air conditioning system to recover the refrigerant, or take the Odyssey to an auto mechanic and have him evacuate the system.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

3

Remove the two rubber stops from the inside left and inside right of the glove box, using your fingers. Tilt the glove box all the way down toward the floor. Remove the two bolts on the left and right side of the glove box. Remove the glove box.

4

Cut the plastic cross brace spanning the open area behind the glove box, by slicing the left and right sides with a utility knife. This piece does not need to be replaced.

5

Open the hood of the car, if it is not already open. Remove the two nuts on the two refrigerant lines to and from the evaporator, located to the left rear of the motor in the engine compartment. Cap the open refrigerant openings with plastic caps. Remove the nut on the firewall, above the two refrigerant lines you just loosened. This nut holds the evaporator in place on the other side of the firewall.

6

Return to the glove box area. Remove the wiring harness from the evaporator. Disconnect the temperature sensor (the smaller wire on the upper left). Remove the mounting bolts. Remove the evaporator.

7

Remove the front passenger airbag (see warning below).

8

Disconnect the wiring harnesses from the blower motor. Remove the clips that hold the control cable in place. Remove the control cable. Remove the mounting bolts from the blower motor. Remove the blower motor unit.

9

Remove the two screws holding the blower resister to the blower motor. Reinstall a new blower resister.

10

Installation is the reverse of removal.

If you love your vehicle but your engine has gone bad, you may consider replacing the engine instead of buying a new car. The body of your car can last indefinitely and it may be more cost effective to buy a new engine if key components such as the transmission are in good condition. When your options are replacing an engine or junking a car and buying a new one, an engine replacement may be your best bet.

Instructions

1

Confirm that your old engine is beyond repair, or is going to cost so much to fix that you may as well replace it. Some engine problems can be repaired, and you should do so if it is feasible.

2

Research your engine options. Your vehicles make and model will determine the engine you need, but you can opt to buy a refurbished engine, an engine from a salvage yard or a brand new factory direct engine. Dont attempt to buy an engine from a junk yard unless you are a qualified mechanic. Rebuilt engines are often as good as new, but a brand new engine from your cars manufacturer is ideal. A new engine is the most expensive option, however.

3

Buy the engine. Do not try replacing the engine yourself unless you are mechanically inclined and experienced. Otherwise, you risk costing yourself even more money when you have to take your car to a mechanic to complete the project.

4

Have the car and engine delivered to a trusted mechanic. You can purchase the engine yourself and supply it to your mechanic, who will then perform the replacement for you. Make sure there is oil in the new engine before starting it for the first time or you can damage the new engine.

Your 2003 Nissan Sentra comes equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics computer that keeps track of when your vehicle needs servicing and alerts you by illuminating the "service engine soon" light on the instrument panel. This light tells you that there may be a problem with the emission control system on the car. An auto-parts retailer can do a free diagnostic reading of the trouble code using a scanner. After you have diagnosed and fixed the problem, you can manually reset the light yourself.

Instructions

1

Pop up the hood of the car and locate the battery. The negative terminal has a black plastic covering. Find the negative battery clamp . Loosen the nut a bit using a 10 mm open-end wrench.

2

Remove the clamp from the battery terminal. Take care not to let it touch the positive side of the battery or cable.

3

Wait about 10 minutes, then reattach the negative battery cable to the negative side of the terminal and tighten the nut with the wrench.

4

Put the key into the ignition and wait for the service light to flash on the instrument panel, then shut off the engine. The light is now reset.

Replacing the blower motor resistor on your Jeep Liberty may be necessary if the HVAC blower motor has stopped working in all but one speed. The resistor limits the amount of electrical current that is fed to the motor, causing the motor to run faster or slower respectively. If the resistor fails, the motor will work at full speed or off but nothing in between. A new resistor is available from any Jeep parts department.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Liberty and loosen the clamp bolt on the negative battery cable with a wrench. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery terminal and set it aside.

2

Open the passengers side door of the Jeep then the glove compartment door. Access to the resistor is through the back of the glove compartment.

3

Locate the connector latch on the wiring harness connector for the blower motor resistor. Depress the latch, pull the connector off the resistor and set it aside.

4

Remove the two retaining bolts from the resistor with a socket, ratchet and extension bar then pull the resistor off the HVAC housing and discard it. Position the new resistor on the housing and install the two retaining bolts, tightening them until they are snug.

5

Push the electrical connector onto the new resistor, making sure it locks into place. Close the glove compartment.

6

Connect the negative battery cable to the negative battery post and tighten the clamp bolt with the wrench until it is secure. Close the hood of your Jeep and test the repair by running the blower motor through each speed setting with the blower switch inside the vehicle.

Introduced in 1987, the 2001 Dodge Dakota came equipped with a 2.5-liter, in-line, four-cylinder engine or a 3.9-liter V-6 engine, as factory standard engines. A 4.7-liter V-8 and 5.9-liter V-8 were optional equipment for the 2001 Dakota. Access the oil filter on the Dakota from beneath the truck. Remove and replace the oil filter during oil changes as oil filters can fail if left on a vehicle for too long. Change the oil and oil filter in the 2001 Dakota every three months or 3,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Park the Dakota, and let the engine cool for no less than 20 minutes. Raise the front of the Dakota by driving it onto vehicle ramps. Raise the front of the Dakota with a 1-ton jack if the ramps are not available. Place jack stands beneath the front lower subframe, just inside the bottom of either wheel well. Lower the jack to rest the Dakota onto the jack stands. Do not attempt this project with the vehicle resting on a jack.

2

Lie beneath the front bumper of the Dakota, and slide your body into position to access the oil filter. Set a drain pan beneath the location of the oil filter, with the filter aligned as close to the center of the pan as possible.

3

Install an oil filter claw onto the end of the 6-inch extension. Push the claw up and onto the oil filter, twisting the claw clockwise slightly to expand the claw around your filter. Snap the ratchet onto the other end of your extension, once you have the claw set on the filter. Turn the entire assembly counterclockwise, until the oil filter loosens. Remove the ratchet and claw from the filter, and remove the filter by hand the rest of the way. Ensure that your face and body are clear of the oil pan, to avoid draining oil.

4

Set the old oil filter into the drain pan. Lubricate the O-ring gasket on the new oil filter, by dipping your finger into a fresh quart of oil, then rubbing oil onto the new gasket. This helps the initial seal of the new gasket, and eliminates the chances of the gasket drying out prior to your next oil change.

5

Visually inspect the oil filter mounting area, to ensure the old filter gasket is not stuck to the engine. Hold the new oil against the protruding threaded rod on the engines mounting surface. Spin the oil filter on by hand, ensuring proper threading of the new filter. Tighten the oil filter by hand only, applying as much force as possible. Do not use tools to tighten any oil filter, as you may damage the gasket with too much torque pressure, or damage the oil filter itself. The maximum torque specification for the filter is 25 foot-pounds.

6

Step to the drivers side of the Dakota, and start the engine of the truck. If you only removed and replaced the oil filter, then you only will have lost 1/2-quart of oil at most. Look beneath the truck while it is still elevated, to ensure that the new oil filter is not leaking. If you hear a hissing or dripping noise from the truck, shut the truck off immediately, and recheck your oil filter for leaks. Shut the truck off after 30 seconds if you do not see any leaks.

7

Remove the drain pan from beneath the truck. Drive the truck off the vehicle ramps. Raise the truck off the jack stands with a jack, if you used them instead. Remove the jack stands and lower the truck to the ground.

The Mazda 20B rotary engine belongs to a very rare classification of engines known as Wankel rotary engines. Wankel rotary engines do not have traditional cylinder-and-piston designs. Instead, they operate with a rotating reaction chamber. The Wankel rotary engine has roots that go all the way back to early propeller-driven aviation, and it combines high engine power with a great deal of space reduction, making it a good choice for a sports car motor.

General Wankel Engine Specifications

A Wankel rotary engine operates using a triangular prism-shaped internal rotating combustion structure. Each face of the prism performs the same function as the cylinder head in a typical engine. Rather than having a simple up-and-down piston movement, the Wankel rotary engines entire internal structure moves around within the engine block enclosure. Because of the greater mass of the internal moving parts, Wankel engines need to be more securely mounted to the vehicle frame than conventional cylinder/piston engines in order to avoid damage from vibrations.

20B Engine Specifications

The Mazda 20B engines central triangular reaction surfaces can be removed from the camshaft, a notable change from early types of Wankel engine where the two pieces were fused. This makes for simpler repairs and engine rebuilding. The entire engine block of the Mazda 20B engine can be disassembled into 11 smaller replaceable components, which to some extent addresses mechanic complaints about other manufactures Wankel engines in terms of finding replacement parts. The modular design makes replacement parts easier to stockpile and simpler to custom-fabricate should the need arise. The 20B engine has a compact design, and retains a high horsepower output at 250 HP stock without enhancements.

20B Engine Successors

Motor Trends Magazines 2009 article "Mazda RX-7 Dilemma" pointed out the notable absence of a next-generation Mazda rotary-engine sports car. It did, however, showcase a new hybrid minivan powered by a hydrogen-compatible rotary engine. This translates into a possible future for the technology derived from creating and supporting the 20B engine. It also signals a possible future trend in mainstream, family rotary-engine vehicles. Previously, the rotary engine has been reserved for high-performance sports cars, motorcycles and aircraft.

Engines produce waste gases which must be expelled in order to maintain power production and fuel efficiency. Exhaust systems route waste gasses outside through piping and system components. Exhaust testing is required by the department of motor vehicles in many states.

Noise Level Testing

State laws vary on acceptable exhaust noise. California certifies state-run testing facilities to determine if a vehicles exhaust meets acceptable noise standards.

Backpressure Testing

Backpressure occurs when exhaust pulls back into the cylinder ports. This suffocates the engine, decreases power and lessens fuel efficiency. Exhaust systems will always have some level of backpressure. Excessive backpressure caused by piping obstructions -- or wrongly sized piping -- requires repair. Testing a vehicles backpressure requires a pressure gauge which reads from zero to 15 PSI. Connect the pressure gauge to the air-pump check-valve and turn on the vehicle. Normal readings are around 1.5 PSI.

Smog & Emission Testing

Smog and emission requirements vary by state. Consult your local department of motor vehicles for state requirements. Smog and emission tests verify a vehicle is not expelling excessive exhaust toxins -- such as carbon monoxide -- into the atmosphere. They verify that exhaust and intake components meet state requirements.

Two ways are available to get a Harley with a more open, unrestricted exhaust, unless you live in California. The most economical way is to drill a one inch hole through the stock baffles of your Harley. You need a bit at least eight inches long and you must drill in the center of the baffles. Proponents believe this simple solution to the overly restrictive stock exhaust can produce up to seven more horsepower. But, this approach will not work with Harleys sold in California because the catalytic converter gets in the way. Most riders simply replace their exhaust with aftermarket pipes. Here is how you do that.

Instructions

1

Make sure your engine and exhaust pipes are cool. Cover the frame, engine, swing arm and rear wheel behind your exhaust with clean rags so you will not scratch your paint or chrome. Loosen all nuts and bolts that attach the exhaust system to your motorcycle with a socket wrench or box wrenches.

2

Find the exhaust support bracket behind the exhaust pipes and remove it with a socket and wrench. Spray penetrating oil around each muffler where it joins the exhaust pipe. Wait five minutes and then pull the mufflers off with your hands. Repeat as necessary.

3

Find and loosen the oxygen sensor with a box wrench. Disconnect the oxygen sensor with your hands. Disconnect the head pipes with a socket wrench. Remove and save the retainer rings and clamps from your old pipes for reuse.

4

Bolt on the new mounting bracket included with your replacement exhaust. Always use wrenches to turn bolts. Use a thread locker on the threads. Install the retainer rings and clamps from your old exhaust on your new exhaust with your fingers and a screwdriver.

5

Your new exhaust will probably be a one piece exhaust without slip-on mufflers. Bolt your new exhaust to your exhaust manifold and the new mounting bracket. Hand tighten all bolts and then wrench tighten.

6

Apply Teflon paste to the heat sensor and reconnect. If supplied as separate pieces, insert the new baffle or baffles into the tail pipes. Attach the new heat shields with a flat-head screwdriver.

Catalytic converters are designed to capture particulates from the exhaust of your car or truck and filter them out so that your vehicle doesnt have poor emissions. Over time, they can go out and will need to be replaced, otherwise you wont pass your local emissions tests. Unfortunately, there isnt a bolt-in replacement for a 1993 Bronco, and you have to remove the old one by cutting it out, then welding in a new one. Cutting out the old one can be done at home with the right tools.

Instructions

1

Crawl underneath the SUV and locate the catalytic converter. Its shaped like a square with rounded corners, and is around the door area underneath the cab.

2

Place the hearing protection, eye protection and gloves on. Then place the metal reciprocating saw blade in the end of the reciprocating saw. Cut the exhaust tubing approximately 2 inches from the end of the rear facing portion of the catalytic converter using the reciprocating saw.

3

Cut the forward facing portion of the exhaust, about 2 inches in front of the catalytic converter using the reciprocating saw. When youre just about to finish the cut, move out of the way so that youre not underneath the converter, as it will fall to the ground.

Those interested in buying a used full-size pickup truck may consider the Chevrolet Avalanche. The 2007 and 2008 models are almost identical except for side-curtain airbags and On-Star with GPS navigation available in 2008. Following manufacturer recommend maintenance extends engine and transmission longevity.

Oil Changes

The Chevy Avalanche featured a "change engine oil" indicator within the instrument cluster that illuminated when an oil change was required. Chevrolet suggests changing the oil within 600 miles of the indicator light illuminating.

Fluid Replacement

Chevrolet recommends changing the transmission fluid at 50,000 miles when driven in heavy traffic areas, rough terrain or in extreme hot or cold weather environments. Replace the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles thereafter when driven hard. For lighter driving, replace the transmission fluid at 100,000 miles and again at 200,000 miles. Change the transfer case fluid at 50,000 miles and then every 50,000 miles thereafter.

Air Filter Replacement

At 50,000 miles, replace the engine air cleaner filter and transmission fluid filter. Replace both filters again at 100,000 miles. Chevy recommends replacing the engine air cleaner and transmission fluid filter every 50,000 miles.

The TE12FUA is part of Snap-ons Torqometer line of torque wrenches. Its important to learn a torque wrenchs specifications so you will know whether the tool is applicable to the job at hand. An example is when you tighten lug nuts on a vehicle. If you use a torque wrench that has a range of 30 foot-pounds, you will not be able to properly torque the lug nuts, which can require as much as 100 foot-pounds of torque.

Physical Dimensions

The Snap-on TE12FUA is the follow-up model to the TE12UA. The TE12FUA is 9 and 29/32 inches long, 2 and 11/16 inches wide, and has a head depth of 1 and 1/4 inches.

Torque Specifications

The Snap-on TE12FUA has a torque range of 150 foot-pounds and can measure torque values in 2.5 foot-pound increments. It has a 3/8-inch square drive to attach a 3/8-inch socket.

Accuracy

According to Snap-on, the TE12FUA is accurate within 2 percent of the reading on the dial when the reading is between 20 percent of the maximum on the dial and the maximum reading on the dial.

Parts

Snap-on sells replacement parts for the TE12FUA, ranging from the dial ring to the movement adjusting screw.

An engine mount strut bracket consists of several separate parts and components. Struts and mounts are the main components that make up the engine mount strut bracket. These parts help the engine run properly by connecting all components of the engine together so the parts can run in unison with one another.

Mount

The mount is usually made of steel or rubber. It is a connector piece for other components of the engine. According to the glossary on AutoZone.com, engine mounts include "pulleys, mounting plates, belts, and fittings necessary to mount a compressor."

Strut

The strut is the part of the engine that helps resist compression and in return helps strengthen the frame of the engine. According to the Glossary on AutoZone.com, struts "maintain the knuckle position and act as shock absorbers to control spring action in a vehicles suspension system." Struts that have failed or stopped working may cause the car to bounce around or shake while driving.

Safety

Consistent checkups on engine mounts and strut brackets can help minimize engine issues. Broken mounts can lead to leaks and punctures of the engine. Broken struts will keep your car from absorbing compressions, leading to flat tires.

The Hyundai Sonata is a mid-size sedan that Hyundai has manufactured since 1985. All engines for the 2001 Hyundai Sonata have multi-port fuel injection, which requires a fuel pump to deliver fuel at high pressure. The fuel pump in this vehicle is located within the field type. The replacement of the fuel pump in a 2001 Hyundai Sonata therefore requires you to first remove the fuel tank in order to gain access to the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Remove the seat cushion from the rear seat, and open the access panel. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump module.

2

Start the engine, and allow it to run until it stalls. Turn the ignition off and remove the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This will prevent the possibility of starting the car accidentally while youre working on it.

3

Place a hose into the filler tube of the fuel tank. Siphon as much gas as possible into a gasoline container.

4

Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank, and detach the electrical connector for the fuel level center. Support the fuel tank with jack stands, and loosen the bolts for the fuel tank straps. Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel pump module, and disconnect the fuel pump module from the fuel tank. Connect the new fuel pump module to the fuel tank and tighten the mounting bolts to between 12 and 24 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Complete the installation by performing Step 4 in reverse. Fill the fuel tank and check for fuel leaks.

The Volvo 850 is a compact car produced by the Swedish auto maker between 1992 and 1997. You can remove the seats from a Volvo 850 at home, saving yourself some money on labor. The upholstery on the 850 tends to crack and wear out quickly, thus requiring removal for re-upholstery. You only need a few simple tools to complete this job. It should only take about an hour to remove all the seats from the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Pry up the plastic caps on the side rails on the front doors using a flathead screwdriver. Remove the screws underneath the plastic caps using a Phillips-head screwdriver.

2

Locate the two rail caps at the bottom rear of each front seat. Slide the caps off the rails by hand. Find the four bolts on each of the seat rails and remove them with a socket wrench.

3

Slide the front seats back on the rails and lift them up and out of the vehicle.

4

Lift up and forward on the rear seat cushion to remove it from the vehicle.

5

Release the latches near the rear-seat headrests using a flathead screwdriver. Pull the seat backs out of the vehicle.

A timing belt that fails could lead to other serious engine failures and damage that could cost thousands of dollars to fix. Information on the replacement of a timing belt can be beneficial for automobile owners.

Identification

There are certain things that can help you to identify problems with your timing belt. Being aware of new sounds coming from your engine can be helpful. An engine that makes scraping noises is often a sign that a timing belt is worn and in need of replacement.

Replace

In order to replace a timing belt, certain parts need to be removed ahead of time, such as fan belts and timing covers. Also, some vehicles require that you replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt.

Time Frame

A timing belt is made partly of rubber and will wear out naturally over time. As a result, estimated intervals for replacement are about every 75,000 miles.

Due to their high-reflectivity, scratches tend to be quite visible on chrome-plated surfaces. A nasty scratch or gouge can easily distract from the beauty of the wheels. If the scratch is minor, a simple polishing may be all thats required to remove it. If, on the other hand, the damage runs deep into the plated surface, the scratch must be filled in and then touched-up with paint.

Instructions

1

Feel the scratch with your fingernail. If the damage does not extend deep into the plating, it can likely be buffed out. Wipe down the wheel to remove any dirt or debris before continuing.

2

Polish the scratch using grade 0000 steel wool that has been dipped in rubbing compound. Use small, circular motions, reapplying the rubbing compound often. Continue this process for several minutes, pausing periodically to wipe off the area and evaluate the progress. If the scratch is removed by the process, consider the task complete. If not, the wheel will have to be touched-up.

3

Mix a small amount of epoxy by following the instructions outlined on the packaging. Using a toothpick, fill in the scratch with the epoxy and allow it to dry. Polish the area again with the steel wool to even out the surface.

4

Cover the epoxy with a layer of chrome touch-up paint. Allow the paint to dry, then polish it with a buffing pad and a mild paint polish. Do not use steel wool on the paint. If necessary, apply a second coat.

Shock absorbers provide a vehicle with a smooth ride on varying or rough terrain. However, when a shock absorber mount breaks, the attached shock absorber cannot perform its function any longer, and the vehicle will suffer from decreased handling performance. The procedure for fixing these mounts varies greatly, depending on the type of vehicle, but for the most part the job can be done by someone with very little mechanical experience.

Instructions

1

Remove the lower and upper shock restraint bolts, using a ratchet wrench and the appropriate sized socket. Use the pry bar to pry the mount if it affects force on the shock, until it can be released. Pull the shock from the gap and place to the side.

2

Locate the broken mount and determine the type of fixture. Use the ratchet and the appropriate sized socket to remove the mount, if it is bolted on. Pry the mount from the vehicle body and discard. Replace with a new after-market shock mount and secure, using the bolts. Reinstall the shock absorber.

3

Use a grinder to cut off the ends of rivets, if the mount was secured with a rivet gun. Cut into the rivet head at a 45 degree angle and slowly rock the grinder back and forth to wear the head away. Use a pry bar to pull the mount from the remainder of the rivet stem. Use a hammer and hammer chisel to remove the stems from the mounting holes. Replace the mount with a bolt-on after-market replacement, and secure using the supplied bolts. Reinstall the shock absorber.

4

Attempt to beat the mount straight, using the hammer, if the mount is permanently welded to the vehicles chassis. Place a block of wood, roughly the size of the shocks mount, near the shock mount. Position the block of wood as if you were mounting the shock. Use the hammer to align the mount to the shape and width of the block. Place the shock absorber into the mount and attempt to install it. Continue shaping the mount with the hammer until the shock absorber can be installed securely, without any movement in the mount area.

Adding aftermarket driving lights such as Lightforce Lights to a truck or four-wheel drive vehicle can be a great way to increase its value as well as performance. This can be done for a relatively small cost and not much work. However, whether you install these lights yourself or have to job done professionally, you will need to align or focus the lights after use. Luckily this is a straightforward and simple job even someone uncomfortable with truck repairs can master in a matter of minutes.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle one foot in front of a large brick wall or garage door. Youll need an additional 20 feet of room to back up once your targets are marked off.

2

Measure up from the ground to the center of the Lightforce Light lens. Transfer this measurement to the wall and use a piece of chalk to mark the wall with a cross shape. The center point of the cross should line up with the center of the lens.Do this for both lights.

3

Back the vehicle up 20 feet and turn on the lights. Notice how the lights land in respect to the chalk crosses. The passenger side light should land dead center on its cross. The drivers side light should fall one inch to the right and one inch below the center point so that it will not shine into any oncoming traffic.

4

Locate the adjustment screws on your Lightforce light. The screws are located at the base of the light; one for controlling the vertical and one for the horizontal. Use a screwdriver to adjust the screws until the lights hit the desired mark.

Spring pins use tension created by compression to lock tight in a hole drilled through two or more components. Before installation, the diameter of a spring pin measures slightly larger than a drilled hole. The diameter of the spring pin shrinks as it enters a drilled hole. This provides the tension necessary to keep a spring pin secure in a material. Numerous designs of spring pins are available but no matter the design, they all use the same methods of installation. Incorrectly installing a spring pin will cause its body to deform and lodge in a part before the pin seats in the material.

Instructions

1

Spread lightweight oil over the exterior surface of the spring pin.

2

Grasp the spring pin with the jaws of a pair of needle-nose pliers. Ensure that at least 1/8 inch of the pin sits past the top edge of the pliers.

3

Align the spring pin with the appropriately sized drilled hole. Tap the end of the pin extending beyond the jaws of the pliers with a ball-peen hammer. Release your grip with the needle-nose pliers when the spring pin sits tightly in the hole.

4

Set the tapered end of the spring pin set on the end of the spring pin. Hit the flat end of the spring pin set with the ball-peen hammer to drive the spring pin flush with the top surface of the drilled material.

Diesel engines were once manufactured primarily as heavy-duty, internal combustion engines for use in machinery that required more power than a gasoline engine could provide. The Cummins model 555 diesel was no exception. This workhorse engine was used primarily in large pleasure boats but also had applications in heavy machinery and large, heavy-duty trucks.

General Specifications

The Cummins 555 is an eight-cylinder, four-stroke, turbo-charged diesel engine in a V formation with four cylinders on each side set at 90-degree angles to one another. This engine has a displacement of 555 cubic inches.

Power

The 555 is available in three power configurations, depending on the intended use and the number of hours per year it will be operated. There are two high-output power options and one intermittent power option. The first high-power option calls for 270 basic horsepower (BHP) at 3300 RPM. The second high-power option provides 270 BHP at 3000 RPM. The intermittent power option provides 235 BHP at 2800 RPM. Actual output is calculated at the shaft and is rated at 97 percent of BHP, but actual output depends on the accessories driven by the motor, such as alternators and other additional equipment. The high-power options are limited to full-speed operation for two hours of every six the engine is run. Intermittent operation is allowed at full power for six hours of every 12 hours of operation.

Fuel Consumption

Fuel consumption by the 555 is dependent on the power option of the engine and on the engine speed. Fuel consumption figures are based on using No. 2 diesel fuel and are given in U.S. gallons per hour. For the intermittent power rating, fuel consumption ranges from 6.9 GPH at 2200 RPM to 13 GPH at 2800 RPM. The first high-output application consumes fuel at a rate of between 8.9 GPH at 2700 RPM and 16 GPH at 3300 RPM. The fuel consumption of the second high-output power option ranges from 8.1 GPH at 2400 RPM to 15.1 GPH at 3000 RPM.

Engine Specifications

The cylinder bore is 4 5/8 inches with a piston stroke of 4 1/8 inches, allowing for a 17:1 compression ratio, and there are four valves per cylinder. Oil capacity is 6 gallons, with 5 gallons held in the oil pan and the remainder in the oil filter and tubing. The engine is water-cooled, and the configuration varies depending on the type of installation. The engine is a maximum of 63 inches long, 37 inches wide and 35 inches high.

A large variety of items are made out of cast aluminum, including cars, motorcycles, boats, porch furniture, pipes and gutters. The reason aluminum is so widely used is because it does not corrode easily and therefore is a choice metal for objects used outdoors. Unfortunately it is also a relatively soft metal so it is easily dented, cracked and broken. You can repair cast aluminum by melting an aluminum razing rod to patch any imperfections.

Instructions

1

Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire scouring sponge and a heavy-duty metal cleaner to remove any dirt and grime from the aluminum you are patching. If you are reattaching two pieces of aluminum that have broken apart, such as a furniture leg, clean both pieces. Wash off the cleanser with water and dry the aluminum. Any foreign substance on your object will keep it from binding with the new aluminum.

2

Light your torch and hold it to the area that needs to be repaired. The area must reach 735 degrees Fahrenheit in order to melt the aluminum brazing rod. Do this outside or in a well ventilated area. Melting aluminum gives off a harmful fumes.

3

Hold the aluminum brazing rod in steel tongs to protect your hands from the heat. Rub the brazing rod on the heated part so it begins to melt. If you are filling in a dent or hole, allow enough aluminum to melt so it fills the area. If you are connecting two pieces of aluminum back together, melt enough of the brazing rod just to cover the area of one broken end. Stick the other broken end to it and clamp into place. Allow the aluminum to cool.

4

Smooth down the repaired area, starting with a coarse sandpaper and moving to finer sheets to polish. You can also use a metal buffing tool. Hide the repair with a coat of paint or polish.

The parking distance control option on BMWs 2011 X5 truck uses ultrasound sensors integrated into the bumpers to aid in maneuvering tight spaces, such as for parking. The PDC sensors detect objects within 7 feet of the X5, and depending on the PDC option, emit an audible proximity warning, as well as visual warning on the control display panel in the middle of the dashboard above the vents. Replace a sensor in the case of a malfunction as indicated on the control display.

Instructions

Front Sensors

1

Park the vehicle level ground. Set the parking brake. Open and raise the hood.

2

Remove the five bumper trim screws from the area just forward of the radiator using a nut driver. Remove the eight bumper trim screws from the bottom edge of the bumper.

3

Remove the two screws from the outer edge at the bottom front of each wheel arch trim using a nut driver. Unsnap the bumper trim catch from the wheel arch trim on both sides.

4

Release the bumper trim catches located on both sides of the bumper trim just below the driving light and at the upper corners of the trim next to the narrow grille strip in the middle

5

Separate the trim from the vehicle slightly and disconnect the electrical connector from the PDC sensor transducers located on the front of the trim just below the inboard passenger trim catch and on each side of the trim. Have a second person help you pull the trim straight forward and off the vehicle.

6

Disconnect the forward transducer holder from the four retaining lugs on the trim. Remove the transducer. Ensure that the rubber ring properly seats on the new transducer. Install the new transducer on the trim and be sure that it seats correctly.

7

Remove the rubber boots from the side transducers. Unclip the transducer retainers and pull the transducer out of the holders. Install the new transducers in the holders. Ensure that the rubber ring properly seats on the transducer and that the transducer properly seats in the holder.

8

Hold the trim in place just forward of its installed position with the aid of a helper. Connect the electrical connectors to the transducer terminals. Install the rubber boots on the transducers. Push the trim piece fully into position and engage the four front clips and the two side clips. Install all of the retaining screws and tighten securely using a nut driver.

Rear Sensors

9

Locate the four transducers in the rear bumper. Two are located right over the exhaust pipes and two are below each corner of the license plate.

10

Lie on the ground and reach up behind the rear bumper. Disconnect the sensors electrical connector from its transducer terminal.

11

Unsnap the retaining tabs from the transducer and pull it from its holder.

12

Install the new transducer in the holder and engage the retaining tabs. Ensure that the rubber ring properly seats on the transducer and that the transducer properly seats in the holder.

13

Plug the electrical connector into the transducer terminal.

Longtime car owners know that no matter how careful you are, sooner or later your windshield will get etched. Flying sand or pebbles can etch small grooves or nicks. Bad wipers used often enough can etch sweeping patterns. Some vandal could even do it intentionally, scratching the glass with a key just as they might the paint. However it got etched, you may be able to repair the problem yourself.

Instructions

1

Clean the glass with water and a soft cloth. If is particularly dirty, use a glass cleaner (like Windex).

2

Stir together a one:one:one mixture of jewelers rouge, glycerin, and water. Two tablespoons of each should be sufficient.

3

Rub that mixture over the etching mark with a soft cloth. Be sure it fills the etching, but do not push too hard or you might make the problem worse.

4

Let it sit at least 30 seconds.

5

Wipe the glass gently with a glass cleaner and a soft cloth. Do not press too deeply or rub too hard; the goal is the leave the solution nestled in the etching and remove the rest.

6

Repeat one or two more times as needed. If after three rounds you still have the mark, it is deep enough that you will need to take the car in.

The BendPak equipment company was founded in 1965 under the name "Quality Machine and Associates." The BendPak name was introduced in 1979 as the brand for a hydraulic tubing bender. Since that time, the BendPak name has been applied to other equipment, including two-post and four-post hydraulic vehicle service lifts.

Floor

The specifications of the floor area are important for a BendPak lift installation. Vehicle lifts frequently hold several tons of weight, and an improper floor can cause a significant safety hazard. Before a lift can be installed, the concrete must be inspected to ensure it is free of defects or cracks. The floor must be level, it cant have more than three degrees of slope. The concrete floor is required to be at least four inches thick and must be rated for at least 2,500 pounds per square inch (PSI). New concrete must cure for at least 28 days before a BendPak lift can be installed.

Anchors

A BendPak lift must be securely anchored to the floor for safety. The holes drilled for the lift anchors are required to be 4 and a half inches deep, with a width of 3/4th of an inch. For these holes to be properly made, a hammer drill with a masonry bit is required. Metal anchors that are rated for use with concrete must be used. They must be tightened securely before the BendPak lift is used.

Air

BendPak lifts require a compressed air source at the installation location. A reliable compressed air feed is necessary to operate the safety locks of the lift. This compressed air must be regulated to a maximum pressure of 125 pounds per square inch (PSI). If compressed air at a higher pressure is used, the air lines and connections can be damaged.

Electricity

The installation site for a BendPak lift must be equipped with single-phase power. This electricity is required to be between 208 and 230 volts at 60 hertz. The electrical circuit must be set up for 25 amps. If several BendPak lifts are installed in the same facility, a separate circuit breaker must be used for each lift. Standard 110-volt power cannot be used for an installed lift; it will cause damage to the motor of the hydraulic power unit.

The exhaust plays an important part in the overall function of a vehicle. It is responsible for moving and carrying away the gases that are created when the fuel and air are burned in the car. Keeping the exhaust on your vehicle clean can help car function and aesthetics. Rusty exhausts are a common issue and can become a serious issue if not attended to quickly; luckily this issue can be easily remedied at home. Stainless steel exhausts require some special treatment in order to avoid scratching the surface.

Instructions

1

Turn the vehicle off for at least an hour before working with the exhaust as this part of the car can be hot.

2

Remove dust and grime from the exhaust first. Take a dry, soft cloth and rub the visible exhaust parts with it to remove as much debris as your can. Do not be too vigorous and work slowly; working too quickly can result in unsightly scratches. Dont use water at this point. Stainless steel can form water spots if the water is not wiped off quickly after application.

3

Use water and a dry wipe if the dirt and grime is particularly stubborn. Use caution and work quickly to avoid staining. Use a soft cloth dipped in water to gently scrub the exhaust, then immediately wipe the surface dry with another clean soft cloth.

4

Use mildly abrasive cleaners to remove more stubborn rust. A mix of apple cider and vinegar works well for those looking for an eco-friendly option. Dip one soft clean cloth in the mix, wipe it over the surface being careful not to scratch the steel, then immediately dry with another clean, soft and dry cloth.

5

Spray a small amount of household cleaners that contain dilute acids onto a cloth for cleaning if there are still rust stains on the exhaust. Wipe the cloth over the exhaust and dry with a clean, soft and dry cloth immediately after application.

6

Buy a stainless steel rust remover product if none of these methods work to remove the rust. Be sure that the rust remover is stainless steel safe. Rust removers can sometimes be too abrasive for stainless steel.

Chevrolet introduced the Corvette, the first sports car manufactured by a U.S. company, in 1953. Since then, the Corvette has remained one of the most recognizable and esteemed performance cars on the U.S. market. The C3, the third generation of the Corvette, was sold from 1968 to 1982. It was commonly referred to as the Mako Shark and it replaced the popular second-generation Sting Ray. As is common with most vehicles, the alignment specs changed from year to year. The alignment specs provided here apply to all trims of the 1982 Corvette, but should not be used for aligning the wheels of any other model year of the Corvette.

Caster

Caster is basically the slope of an imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower pivot joints of a wheel when viewed from the side of the vehicle, with zero being a vertical line straight up through the center of the wheel. If the top of the slope crosses the vertical line toward the rear of the car, then the car has a positive caster. If the top of the slope crosses the vertical line toward the front of the car, then the wheel has a negative caster. Most vehicles are designed to have a positive caster -- meaning the steering pivots will be slightly angled toward the rear of the vehicle. The preferred caster on the front end of the 1982 Corvette can range from +1.75 degrees to +2.75 degrees, with the ideal setting being +2.25 degrees. The caster cannot be adjusted on the rear wheels.

Camber

The camber is the angle the top of a wheel tilts when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the top of the wheel tilts out, it represents a positive camber. When the top of the wheel tilts in, it represents negative camber. The camber on the front end of the 1982 Corvette can range from +0.25 degrees to +1.25 degrees, with the ideal setting being +0.75 degrees. The preferred camber angle for the rear wheels is zero, but it can range in either direction by 0.5 degrees.

Toe-in

The toe of a wheel is often given in inches and represents the difference in the space between the fronts of two opposing wheels and the rear of two opposing wheels. For instance, if a vehicle has a toe-in of 1 inch, that means the fronts of the wheels are 1 inch closer to each other than the rears of the wheels. The toe-in on the front end of the 1982 Corvette should be set at +1/4 inch, but it can range in either direction by 1/16 inch. The toe-in on the rear wheels should be set at +1/16 inch, but it can range in either direction by 1/16 inch.

Building a custom sports bike is all about increasing horsepower, but even if you already have a performance exhaust such as a Yoshimura, you can gain even more power by removing the baffles. It will be louder for sure, but by doing this you can easily buy two horsepower for not a whole lot of work, just an afternoon or so with power tools. Its one of the best kinds of custom motorcycle modifications--the free kind.

Instructions

1

Insert a metal drill bit into the drill that is approximately the diameter of the rivets located on the end cap of the Yoshimura muffler. Drill out each rivet using the drill, until the end cap can be completely removed from the exhaust.

2

Unbolt the baffle from the muffler, using an open-end wrench, then place the baffle to the side. Place thread-locking compound on the bolt that previously held the baffle in place, and tighten it through the baffle mounting hole with a locknut, so the muffler doesnt have a leak.

3

Place the end cap back on the muffler and insert a rivet into one of the holes where you drilled out a rivet in Step 1. Place the rivet gun onto the shank of the rivet and pull the trigger, tightening the rivet in place. Repeat this for all remaining rivets until the muffler is reassembled.

The seventh generation of the Toyota Corolla includes the 1993 through 1997 model years in the United States and features a few different models, including a four-door station wagon. This model has a tailgate that lifts up and allows direct access to the rear of the vehicle. To remove the tailgate in the 1994 Corolla station wagon you must also remove the trim panel for the tailgate.

Instructions

1

Open the tailgate and raise it as far as possible. Remove the fasteners for the inner trim panel with a socket wrench. Remove the inner panel from the tailgate by pulling it forward and then out of the vehicle.

2

Detach the electrical wiring harness from the the tailgate and push it out of your way. Mark the location of the hinges on the tailgate with a scribe to help you position the tailgate if you must reinstall it later.

3

Disconnect the bolts for the damper stays with a socket wrench. Remove the damper stays from the tailgate and move them out of the way.

4

Detach the electrical wiring for the rear defroster, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the mounting bolts for the tailgate with a socket wrench and detach the tailgate from its hinges.

The 300ZX is a sports car that Nissan sold in the United States from 1984 to 1996. The 1984 models had 2.0-liter and 3.0-liter engines, and some units also had turbochargers. All versions of the 1984 300ZX have fuel injection, which delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. The fuel injector assembly in a 1984 Nissan 300ZX is accessible from the engine compartment and is located on top of the engine.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and remove the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box. Allow the engine to stall and crank the engine to ensure that it will not start. Turn the ignition off once you have removed all of the fuel from the fuel system. Replace the fuse for the fuel pump.

2

Detach the electrical connector from the fuel injector, and disconnect the wiring harness from the wiring clamp on the fuel pipe. Remove the hose from the cover on the rocker arm. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator and detach the pipe to the air regulator.

3

Place a shop towel under the fuel pipe to catch spilled fuel. Disconnect the fuel feed line and fuel return line from the fuel pipe.

4

Remove the bolts for the fuel pipe and the retaining screws for the fuel injector with a socket wrench. Detach the entire fuel injector assembly from the engine, including the fuel injectors, fuel pipe and pressure regulator. Release the clamps for the hose on the fuel pipe and separate the fuel pipe from the fuel injector.

5

Inspect the new insulator washers for the fuel injector to ensure they have no abrasions. Install the new insulator washers to the new fuel injector so they form an airtight seal. Install the new fuel injectors by reversing steps two through four. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

General Motors, the manufacturer of the Pontiac Transport, has issued multiple safety recalls due to problems that could cause accident or injury to drivers and passengers. Registered vehicle owners may contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to determine if their minivans were recalled.

Steering Problems

General Motors recalled certain 1998 Pontiac Transports due to a manufacturing error that could cause steering difficulty. Drivers could have trouble steering left due to the pinion shaft shifting upward. Authorized dealers will replace lower pinion bearings in the power rack and pinion assembly to remedy this problem.

Door Problems

General Motors recalled certain 1998 and 1999 Pontiac Transports for a sliding door problem that could cause injury. These doors close, but sometimes dont latch. A follow-up recall addressed a problem with the interior handle used to open power sliding doors. These handles could injure a passengers arm if the door is manually opened while the door is also opened by the motor. Dealers will replace the affected latches and handles.

Air Bag Problems

General Motors recalled certain 1999 Pontiac Transports because the drivers side airbag inflation module could produce excess pressure and explode during a crash. Occupants of the vehicle could be injured by flying metal and plastic debris. Authorized dealers will replace the air bag module.

The Quad 4 series of engines by General Motors had four cylinders with four valves per cylinder. They were in production from 1987 to 2002, and appeared in various GM vehicles from this period. The 2.4-liter version of the Quad 4 engine was an option on the Chevrolet Cavalier from 1996 to 2002. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all Quad 4 vehicles.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump. Start the engine, and allow it to idle until it stalls.

2

Crank the engine for three seconds at a time until the engine fails to start. This ensures that the fuel system is completely empty. Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump, and fasten the filler cap to the fuel tank.

3

Disconnect the resonator for the air cleaner with a socket wrench, and detach the fuel lines from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the electrical connectors for the camshaft position sensor and the fuel injectors. Detach the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench, and remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold. Twist the fuel pressure regulator back and forth to detach it from the fuel rail, and discard the O-ring on the fuel pressure regulator. Release the retaining clips from the fuel injectors, and remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.

5

Coat the new O-rings for the fuel injectors with engine oil, and mount them to the new fuel injectors. Install the new fuel injectors to the fuel rail, and attach the retaining clips to the fuel injectors. Connect the fuel rail to the intake manifold, and tighten its mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Mount a new O-ring to the fuel pressure regulator, and install the regulator to the fuel rail. Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel pressure regulator to 53 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Attach the fuel lines to the fuel injector, and plug the electrical connector into the fuel injector. Connect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator, and attach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor. Install the resonator for the air cleaner with a socket wrench.

8

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition switch on for two seconds, then turn the ignition off for ten seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Check the vehicle for fuel leaks.

The 2001 Jeep Cherokee turn signals and emergency flashers both are controlled by the flasher relay. If your turn signals or emergency lights are not flashing properly and you have verified the bulbs are functional, the relay may be burned out. You can purchase a replacement relay from an auto parts store and replace it at home. Keeping your turn signals and hazard lights functioning properly provides safety on the road.

Instructions

1

Position the Cherokees steering wheel in the highest position possible to make it easier to access the dashboard panels.

2

Remove the three screws securing the lower dashboard panel below the steering wheel with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the trim panel off the dashboard.

3

Grasp the turn signal relay, and pull straight back to disconnect it. The turn signal relay is mounted just above the fuse box on the drivers side, and the relay is stamped with either "50732" or "TBB89" for easy identification.

4

Push the replacement relay into the mounting area until it is secure. Replace the lower dashboard panel. Insert the three screws back into the dashboard panel, and tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver.

5

Return the steering wheel to your preferred position. Test the turn signal relay for proper function.

Replacing the catalytic converter on your Firebird can improve fuel economy, engine performance and drivability. Catalytic converters are not prone to failure but when they do go bad, they will run very hot and can choke off the flow of exhaust from the engine. Replacement converters are available from several sources including automotive parts stores or the dealers parts department. Some salvage yards or parts recyclers also stock good used converters at discounted prices.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the car with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the frame to support the car. Locate the catalytic converter under the passengers side of the car.

2

Remove the retaining bolt on the exhaust clamp at the rear of the catalytic converter with a wrench. Move to the front of the converter and remove the four bolts from the mounting flange between the front of the converter and the exhaust pipe with a socket and ratchet.

3

Lower the converter down and move it out from under the car. Discard the old converter.

4

Position the new converter under the car and raise it up into position. Slide a new gasket in between the front flange on the exhaust pipe and the flange on the converter. Install the four mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet.

5

Install the exhaust clamp on the rear of the converter and tighten the retaining bolt with a wrench or socket and ratchet. Do not over tighten the bolts; the pipe will deform causing an exhaust leak if this bolt is too tight.

6

Raise the front of the car off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the stands from under the front of the car and lower the jack.

The Motorcraft 2100 is a carburetor designed for Jeep AMC vehicles. Its a two venturi carburetor that is made up of two assemblies of lightweight aluminum: the air horn and the body. The air horn is also the cover for the main body and it contains the choke assembly and fuel bowl vents. There are three models of the Motorcraft 2100: the 2DM2, the 2DA2 and the 2RA2.

2DM2 Specifications

The 2DM2 model of the 2100 Motorcraft carburetor has a throttle bore size of 1 9/16 inches and a main venturi size of 1 5/64 inches. The fuel inlet diameter is .097 inches, the power valve timing opens at 6 to 7 inches, and spark port location is .288 inches, above the closed throttle. The initial choke valve clearance is .140 inches gauge, the automatic choke is 1 notch rich, and the dashpot is .110 inches gauge.

2DA2 Specifications

Like the 2DM2 model, the 2DA2 2100 Motorcraft has a throttle bore size of 1 9/16 inches and a main venturi size of 1 5/64 inches. The initial choke valve clearance of the 2DA2 is .130 inches gauge, while the automatic choke and dashpot is 2 notches rich and .140 inches gauge, respectively. Like the 2DM2 carburetor, the 2DA2 has a fuel inlet diameter of .097 inches and a power valve timing that opens at 6 to 7 inches. The spark port location is .305 inches, above the closed throttle.

2RA2 Specifications

Like the 2DM2 and 2DA2 2100 Motorcraft carburetors, the 2RA2 model also has a throttle bore size of 1 9/16 inches, a main venturi size of 1 5/64 inches, a fuel inlet diameter of .097 inches and a power valve timing that opens at 6 to 7 inches. The initial choke valve clearance of the 2RA2 is .130 inches gauge and the automatic choke is 2 notches rich. The spark port location in the 2RA2 is .305 inches, above the closed throttle.

The voltage regulator ensures a consistent charging voltage from the alternator to your cars battery. A faulty regulator often results in a dead or damaged battery. Generally, manufacturers equip cars with some type of warning system to notify owners of a regulator problem. When you see the warning light on the dash, consult a professional unless you have some auto repair experience. If you do the repair yourself, review repair instructions for your specific car before replacing your voltage regulator. Depending on the manufacturer, you may have to perform different steps.

Instructions

1

Put on the work gloves, and open the hood. Take the ground cable off of the battery.

2

Remove the wires from the broken regulator. Bind the end of the battery wire with electrical tape. This avoids any potential sparks that might occur if the wire rubs any metal parts. detach the regulator from the alternator by removing the adhering bolts or screws with the adjustable wrench or screwdriver.

3

Look at the bottom of the regulator for the two carbon brushes. Remove them and use the sandpaper to carefully clean the contact ends of the brushes. Apply electrical contact cleaner to the brushes, and insert them into the new regulator. Match the wear patterns on the brushes to the patterns on the new regulator. If the patterns do not match, the regulator will not work correctly.

4

Connect the new voltage regulator to the alternator carefully, making sure not to damage the brushes. Secure the regulator with the bolts or screws and attach the wires using the adjustable wrench or screwdriver, Reattach the ground cable to the battery and close the hood.

5

Start your car, and run it at 1,000 to 1,200 rpm. Look at the voltmeter on your dashboard to check the battery voltage. If voltage is not in the 13.5 to 14.5 range, read your regulator instructions on how to adjust the voltage. Recheck it after you make the adjustments.

The anti-lock brake system (ABS) on the Ford Windstar is controlled by an ABS computer. This computer illuminates an ABS warning light on the instrument panel when there is a problem with the brakes. You can reset the ABS light on your 1995 Ford Windstar right from your home using an OBD code reader. This small, computerized device can be purchased from any auto parts store. Some stores will even loan you their code reader for free for the purpose of resetting the codes.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, taking care not to start the engine.

2

Plug the code reader into the diagnostic port under the steering column on the dashboard, then turn the code reader on.

3

Navigate through the code readers menu using the arrow keys. Select "ABS" then "Clear Codes" or similar type of command.

4

Wait for the code reader to return to the main menu. This is an indication that the ABS code has been cleared.

5

Unplug the code reader and start the engine. Check to see that the ABS light has shut off.

The driveline is the main component that enables the rear end differential to turn the rear wheels. A driveline connects to the yolk on the back of the transmission. The other end of the driveline connects to the yolk on the rear differential. When the transmission is engaged, the transmission yolk turns the driveline which in turn turns the yolk on the rear differential. The gears inside of the differential then turn the rear axles which then turn both rear wheels. Over time the u-joints inside of the driveline will wear down and need to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.

2

Wait about an hour for the driveline to cool down. Slide under the middle side of the vehicle and locate the yolk on the back of the transmission. The front of the driveshaft is attached to the transmission yolk. Loosen and remove the four u-joint strap bolts that connect the driveline to the transmission yolk with a ratchet and a socket. Remove the bolts and the straps and place them in a safe area.

3

Put on the safety glasses to keep any metal shavings out of your eyes. Tap the top center of the driveline yolk with a hand held sledge hammer until the end of the driveline is slid back enough to remove it from the transmission yolk. The driveline is adjustable, It will slide backwards or forwards. Lower the front of the driveline to the surface.

4

Move to where the end of the driveline connects to the yolk on the rear end. Loosen and remove the four u-joint strap bolts with a ratchet and a socket. Remove the bolts and the straps and place them in a safe area. Pull the end of the driveline off of the rear end yolk and lower it to the surface. Push the driveline out from under the vehicle.

5

Place each end of the driveline onto a block of wood. Remove the front u-joint from the drive line by turning the drive line so that one of the u-joint caps is facing upward. Locate a deep-well socket that will fit into the driveline yolk hole and onto the u-joint cap. Tap the deep-well socket with the hand held sledge hammer until the bottom u-joint cap comes off of the u-joint. Pull the bottom cap off of the u-joint.

6

Rotate the driveline 90-degrees so that the u-joint with the missing cap is facing upward. Remove the other c-clip with the c-clip pliers. Tap the bare u-joint with the hammer until the other cap comes out of the bottom of the yolk. Pull the cap off and wiggle the u-joint out of the driveline yolk with your hands. Move to the other end of the driveline and repeat the same process as explained in the steps above to remove the u-joint from the driveline yolk.

Camber is the measurement of the plane of the front wheel and its relationship to the plane of the ground measured in degrees of the angle. If the two surfaces are perpendicular, the vehicle has 0 degrees camber. If the plane of the wheel tips outward, the vehicle has positive camber, and negative means it tips inward. Camber is one of the alignment angles of the Grand Am, and is applicable to both the front and rear wheels.

Suspension Details

The 1997 Pontiac Grand Am has a McPhereson strut suspension system. This is a system where the lower part of the steering knuckle is supported and held in place by the lower control arm, and the upper part of the steering knuckle is supported by the strut assembly. The strut assembly consists of a shock and a coil spring which serve the dual role of supporting the weight of the vehicle and dampening excessive suspension bounce.

Front Camber Specifications

The specifications for front wheel camber for the 1997 Grand Prix are between -1.15 and 0.35 degrees. Any measurement between those two numbers is acceptable and should result in good tire wear and vehicle handling as long as the other angles are set correctly. The ideal measurement is -0.40 degrees camber.

Rear Camber Specifications

Rear-wheel camber specifications are between -1.0 degrees and 1.0 degrees. The rear wheels are given a larger variance in the acceptable measurements because their role in turning is not as pronounced. Ideally the measurement should be in the center of the range, or as close to 0 degrees as possible.

Cross Camber Specifications

Cross camber is the difference in camber between both the left and right side. This would allow the left wheel to have a slight positive camber and the right wheel to have a negative camber. The cross camber specifications for the front wheels are between -1.0 degrees and 1.0 degrees. You may vary the cross camber to compensate for vehicle pull as necessary as long as you stay within the specifications.