Repair And Fix it

Changing the valve body in your 1994 Ford Bronco with automatic transmission can give you more control over the shift points of your transmission as well as fix valve body-related transmission problems. With the right tools, this is a job that can be accomplished in around three to four hours.

Instructions

1

Place wheel chocks in front of and behind one rear wheel. These can be 4-by-4-in. blocks. Jack the front end of the Bronco up enough that you can comfortably slide under the transmission area. Place the jackstands under both sides and caully lower the vehicle onto them.

2

Push the drain pan with the umbrella over it under the rear portion of the transmission where you can reach it from under the transmission pan. Bringing the tools, slide under the truck inline with the transmission pan.

3

Verify the correct socket size for the transmission pan bolts. Attach the correct socket to the end of the extension and the extension to the ratchet. It will be either the 7/16 or 1/2-in. socket.

4

Remove the three bolts from one corner by rotating them counterclockwise. Loosen the rest of the pan bolts halfway.

5

Slide the drain pan and umbrella under the transmission pan.

6

Insert the tip of the screwdriver between the pan and transmission case in the corner with the removed bolts and twist, breaking the seal of the gasket. Hold the pan umbrella and center the drain pan under the fluid flow. Wait for the flow to significantly slacken.

7

Remove the remaining bolts, slowly allowing the rest of the transmission fluid to flow out of the pan. Set the pan aside.

8

Remove the three screws holding the transmission filter in place and remove the filter, setting it into the pan umbrella.

9

Verify the size of the bolts securing the valve body and attach the correct socket to the extension. Rotate the bolts counter-clockwise to remove them. Set the bolts aside within easy reach. Set the valve body in the umbrella also.

10

Slide out from under the truck and clean the transmission pan with the parts cleaner and rags. Use the scraper to remove the gasket and through this away. Slide the pan and replacement parts and scraper under the truck and caully remove the drain pan.

11

Slide under the truck and use the gasket scraper to remove the gasket from the transmission case to pan mating surface.

12

Align the new valve body correctly and insert the bolts into the corresponding holes and start them by twisting them clockwise.

13

Attach the socket and ratchet to each bolt and tighten them to approximately 30 pounds per square inch of torque.

14

Align the new transmission with the bolts and fluid holes and insert the three retaining bolts. Twist these clockwise to start and tighten with the screwdriver.

15

Align the pan gasket with the bolt holes in the transmission pan. Use four to six bolts to hold the gasket in place and place the gasket and pan against the transmission case. Start the four or six bolts sufficiently to hold the pan in place by turning them clockwise.

16

Insert and start the remaining bolts. Run them all down to finger tight.

17

Tighten the bolts, moving from the center of each side of the pan to the corners. Torque the bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds of torque. Slide out, bringing the tools with you.

18

Lift the truck off the jack stands and pull them out. Slowly lower the truck completely and pull the jack out.

19

Remove the transmission dipstick and insert the funnel in the opening. Caully pour four to five quarts in. Start the engine and allow the transmission to warm up. Shift gears every 10 to 15 seconds.

20

Place the transmission in park and check the fluid level. Pour enough fluid in for the reading to be full. Shift gears every minute or so again to ensure proper fluid flow.

If your air conditioning malfunctions in your 1999 Lexus LS400, prompt servicing is the best way to protect your Lexus investment. Any automotive mechanic can recharge your air conditioner, but damage to your air conditioning system requires Lexus service technicians, certified by the Lexus Commitment to Excellence program, if you want your warranty to stand. Mechanical or electrical air conditioning problems may mean replacing the entire system, the compressor, condenser, accumulator, evaporator, blower motor, control unit, fan and clutch.

Compressor Specifications

The Lexus Part Store sells new and urbished used air conditioner compressors for the 1999 Lexus LS400. The remanufactured compressors come with a core charge. The LS400 compressor has six grooves, a 1.65-inch line, a mount manifold, a tangent mount, a 4.5-inch pulley, a speed sensor switch and a clutch. The urbished compressor carries a two-year or 24,000-mile warranty. The new compressor cost $442 in 2010 and is under warranty for one year. The urbished compressor cost $395 in 2010. A core charge of $61 in 2010 was imposed on top of the part cost; the core charge is unded to the purchaser upon receipt of the old compressor.

Condenser Function

The condenser collects filth and oil from the compressor. Refrigerant may carry this filth through the condenser to the expansion valve, clogging the valve or tube. If oil cannot flow through the condenser, the compressor cannot receive oil, and the compressor will lack lubrication. If the condenser is dirty, it may be necessary to replace it. Flushing the compressor definitely moves sludge through the system. The sludge may form a blockage or damage the compressor. If you damage your air conditioner by flushing it, your warranty will be void, at least for the air conditioner.

Condenser Specifications

The Lexus Parts Store website lists two condensers for a 1999 Lexus LS400. A new first-class condenser with a clutch, manufactured from high-quality materials for extended reliability, cost $235 in 2010. A limited 1-year warranty covers manufacturers defects in the compressor. A second aluminum parallel flow condenser cost $139 in 2010. It is guaranteed to fit without leaking. Both condensers reduce noise and vibration. A chrome-plated compressor gasket or trim ring fits most cars and trucks with 7-inch radial compressors. The gasket costs $29 from the Lexus Parts Store in 2010 and comes with a 90-day warranty.

Proving yet again that the only bad question is the one not asked, heres one with a few different answers. They all involve a "yes," but with a few provisos -- primarily in terms of filter location. The Optimas automatic transmission underwent a few changes in the middle of the 2001 model year that determine where youll find the filter and how youll go about changing it.

Filter Locations

According to Kia technical service bulletin TT651003-005 -- published in the wildly popular Kia Technician Times, Volume 6, Issue 5, 2003 -- the company switched from external to internal transmissions in the middle of the 2001 model year. This goes for both 2.4-liter four-cylinder and 2.5-liter V-6 engines. Check the VIN number and the exact production date of your Optima; cars produced from October 1st, 2000 to December 31st, 2001 used transmissions with an external filter, while later models used an internal one.

A Cause for Change

External filters are a nice touch when it comes to maintenance, but theyre uncommon for one primary reason. If youve ever been under your car, youll notice that Kia left just about enough room for a snake to slither through. While this wasnt anything that Kias engineers couldnt deal with, this particular transmission also saw use in the same-year Sonata, Santa Fe and Trajet; and, Kia being Kia, also likely had designs on selling the design after its production cycle to another manufacturer. So, out went the external filter, and in comes the internal one.

Replacing the External Filter

The external filter is great from a maintenance point of view. It screws onto the the transmission case just above the transmission fluid oil pan and should be clearly visible from the bottom of the car. You should be able to get to it from the top after removing the air cleaner assembly. After removing the old filter with a filter wrench, clean the mating surface and the surrounding area, lubricate the O-ring on the filter and tighten it to 8 or 9 foot-pounds.

Replacing the Internal Filter

Internal filter transmissions are more compact by nature, but changing the filter is a comparative pain. But little more so than any other car. Slide under the car and remove the 10 millimeter transmission pan bolts, starting at one side and working toward the other. Be prepared for transmission fluid to cascade out of the top of the pan. Scrape any gasket material off of the transmission and oil pan. Youll find the filter secured to the bottom of the transmission, inside the pan, by three bolts. Remove them, replace the filter, and reinstall the pan. Tighten all of the bolts to about 10 foot-pounds and ill the transmission with 3.5 quarts of SP3 transmission fluid.

The Nissan Maxima is a mid-size car manufactured by Nissan since 1976. The third generation of this vehicle was in production from 1989 to 1994 and represented a major redesign. All versions of the 1994 Nissan Maxima have a 6-cylinder 3.0-liter engine with sequential fuel injection. The fuel injectors are on top of the engine and their replacement also requires you to remove the fuel rails.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the battery from producing sparks. Remove the collector for the intake manifold. Detach the hoses on the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rails.

2

Detach the electrical connectors for the fuel injector and disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

3

Remove the retainer screws for the fuel injector with a socket wrench and press the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Discard the O-rings for the fuel injector and apply a thin layer of engine oil to the new O-rings.

4

Install the O-rings to the new fuel injector and press the fuel injector into the fuel rail. Fasten the retainer screws for the fuel injector with a socket wrench.

5

Place the fuel rail assembly onto the engine. Torque the fuel rail mounting bolts to between 6.9 and 8.0 ft. lbs. with a socket wrench, then torque them to between 15 and 20 ft.lbs.

6

Attach the fuel lines to the fuel rail assembly and connect the hoses to the fuel pressure regulator. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel injectors and install the collector for the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Urethane clear coats are applied to create a lasting shine and to provide protection for the base colors that lay underneath them. As with any solvent-based materials, safety guidelines always should be followed when urethane products are used.

Inhalation

Urethane clear coats contain harmful vapors. The product always should be used in a well-ventilated area or in closed conditions where extraction is available. Users should wear suitable air-fed respiratory equipment at all times.

Skin and Eyes

Contact with skin and eyes should be avoided at all times. Protective clothing, eye-wear and gloves always should be worn during handling. In the event of accidental spillage, urethane clear coats should be washed off with copious amounts of water and medical advice should be considered.

Consumption

Urethane clear coats should never be consumed internally. If accidental swallowing occurs, do not induce vomiting and seek medical advice immediately.

Usage

Always use urethane clear coats in accordance with manufacturer instructions and never use non-compliant solvents to help harden or thin the material. Users with respiratory problems should avoid contact with all urethane-based products.

Manufactured for the export market, the Mazda 626 first appeared in the U.S. in 1979. The 1999 version of the 626 is a four-door family sedan that was powered by a 2.0-liter, inline four-cylinder engine that produced 125 horsepower and 127 foot-pounds of torque. A leaking gasket that caused poor engine performance was one of the engines issues.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative (ground) battery cable. Remove the timing belt. Remove the front exhaust pipe. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the accelerator cable. Disconnect the fuel hose. Remove the ignition coil.

2

Drain the engine coolant. Verify the engine oil level. Inspect for engine oil, engine coolant and fuel leakage. Inspect the pulleys and the drive belt for runout and contact.

3

Hold the camshaft by using a wrench on the cast hexagon, and loosen the camshaft pulley lock bolt. Loosen the camshaft cap bolts in two or three steps. Arrange the removed camshaft caps to ensure correct placement during installation. Temporarily install the number three engine mount rubber to support the engine. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps. Remove the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Clean the surface of the block from any dirt and debris with a degreaser. Place the new head gasket on the block.

4

Measure the length of each bolt used to tighten the cylinder head. Replace any that exceed the maximum length. Standard length is 4.103 to 4.125 inches. Maximum length would be 4.154 inches. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps. Tightening torque shouldnt exceed 16.2 foot-pounds for each step. To install everything back, just follow the removal sequence in reverse. Remember to connect the negative battery cable back to the battery.

Transmissions allow you to easily shift a vehicle into drive, park or reverse when it is working properly. Low fluid levels or even a bad solenoid cause problems that can be handled without the need to tear down the entire transmission. However, internal problems more serious than these can also occur, bringing about the need to have the transmission rebuilt.

Search

Many transmission shops use to do transmission rebuilding jobs. By replacing transmissions instead of rebuilding them, shops can earn more profits for themselves. Because of this, you may need to do a thorough search before you can find a shop willing to rebuild your transmission.

Cost

A good way to estimate what it will cost you to have your transmission rebuilt is by taking the cost of what the transmission would cost new and splitting that in half. For example, if your transmission cost $2,000 new, you can expect to pay about $1,000 to have it rebuilt.

Labor

The labor performed with rebuilding a transmission starts with a total disassembling of the transmission. Each part is then caully inspected to see whether cleaning is needed or total replacement of the part. Some parts are often replaced regardless of their condition, such as the torque converter.

Oxygen sensors, commonly called O2 sensors, are a vital component in maximizing fuel efficiency in vehicles.

Name

An oxygen molecule consists of two atoms of oxygen bound together. Thus, O2 ers to the chemical formula for pure oxygen.

Task

O2 sensors monitor how much unburned oxygen is present in the exhaust from an automobile engine. The amount of oxygen indicates how efficiently the engine is burning fuel.

Effect

The cars computer uses readings from the oxygen sensor to adjust the mixture of air and fuel in the engines combustion chambers for maximum efficiency.

Location

There is an O2 sensor inside the exhaust manifold. Vehicles produced after 1995 also have a "downstream" sensor to measure the exhaust as it leaves the catalytic converter, to ensure that the converter is working properly, too.

Malfunction

Symptoms of a malfunctioning O2 sensor include declining gas mileage, rough idling and engine surges or hesitation. A vehicles "check engine" light will often come one.

The battery may be the most important part of your Toyota RAV4. The battery helps to run the engine, maintain the lighting system and power heating and cooling elements. The RAV4s battery specifications contain important dimensions, battery life and warranty details to prepare you for your next trip or commute.

Details

The RAV4 battery is 7.68 inches wide by 5.16 long and 7.13 inches tall. The battery weighs 23.15 pounds and contains 12 volts of power. This includes 35 AH rate capacity. The bolt terminal type is an M8 nut. The battery is heat and vibration resistant. It also features a non-spillable design to avoid contact with battery acid. The batter can be mounted anywhere where the vehicle holds the battery housing.

Warranty

Batteries such as the APW offer a labor and material warranty for 12 months. The APW brand offers an extended warranty for an extra cost. The Duralast is also a battery that can fit into a RAV4 and offers a standard one-year warranty similar to the APW. Extended warranties often cover the replacement of the battery but not labor for replacement.

Battery Replacement

The Toyota RAV4 battery will last for about four years. High-quality batteries should be used if you own a recent model RAV4 because of added electrical features, including navigation systems and power outlets. Before replacing a battery, check the charging system. RAV4 batteries are available for model years 1986 to present.

The Dodge Spirit is a mid-size sedan manufactured from 1989 to 1995. Most 1993 models have a four-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine that uses throttle-body injection, or TBI. TBI is an early form of fuel injection developed in the 1980s that used low fuel pressure, typically in the range of 10 to 15 pounds per square inch. The fuel pump on the 1993 Dodge Spirit is integrated with the fuel sender into a single unit. The replacement of the fuel pump on this vehicle requires you to disconnect the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an accidental spark from the battery. Drain the fuel in the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Squeeze the retainer tabs on the fuel supply line and fuel return lines. Disconnect these fuel lines from the fuel pump module.

2

Remove the mounting bolts from the fuel pump module with a socket wrench. Disconnect the wiring on top of the fuel pump module, and remove the nut for the fuel pumps lower bracket with a socket wrench. Remove the hose clamp from the fuel pump, and disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel pump. Remove the clamp for the inlet hose on the fuel pump, and disconnect the inlet hose.

3

Tilt the fuel pump to avoid damage to the float arm and fuel filter. Remove the lower gasket. Remove the fuel pump from the faceplate of the fuel tank. Remove the lower bracket and upper gasket from the fuel pump.

4

Place the new upper gasket onto the new fuel pump. Connect the fuel pump to the upper bracket and outlet hose. Attach the hose clamp to the outlet hose. Place the new lower gasket into the lower bracket, and fasten the bolt for the lower bracket with a socket wrench. Connect the inlet hose to the fuel pump, and attach its hose clamp. Connect the electrical wiring for the fuel pump.

5

Install the fuel pump module so the filter on the fuel pump module fits into the tray on the fuel tank. Align the bottom gasket so its holes align with the corresponding holes on the fuel tank. Attach the fuel pump module to the fuel tank by tilting it as necessary to clear the float arm and fuel filter. Use a socket wrench to fasten the fuel pump module to the fuel tank with the mounting bolts.

6

Connect the fuel supply line and fuel return line to the fuel pump module. Install the fuel tank, and lower the vehicle. Fill the fuel tank with fuel, and connect the cable for the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

Shocks should be replaced on your Jeep Grand Cherokee every 75,000 miles to maintain a high quality ride. Shocks mount from the frame of the vehicle to the axle and absorb any bumps from the road. Shocks work in parallel with springs to soften the ride and performance. Shocks are filled with nitrogen and are specific to each vehicle. Faulty shocks can lead to premature tire wear, rough ride and poor handling.

Instructions

Front Shock Replacement

1

Loosen the lug nuts of one of the front tires with a lug nut wrench. Place a jack under the axle of your Jeep and lift the vehicle enough to remove the tire. Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire from the axle.

2

Open the hood and locate the upper shock bolts inside the engine compartment. These are on each side of the engine on the fender wells. Remove the nut with a 14 mm socket and a ratchet.

3

Remove the nut from the bolt that secures the shock to the mounting bracket on the axle with a ratchet and socket. Pull the bolt from the bracket.

4

Remove the shock from the vehicle.

5

Place the new shock into position and install the lower mounting bolt through the bracket and into the shock absorber. Tighten the nut with the ratchet and socket. Install the upper nut that secures the upper shock to the vehicle inside the engine compartment with the ratchet and socket.

6

Reinstall the tire and tighten the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench. Lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack.

7

Repeat the process on the opposite side of the vehicle.

Rear Shock Replacement

8

Loosen the lug nuts on one of the rear tires with the lug nut wrench. Place the jack under the axle of your Jeep and lift the vehicle enough to remove the tire. Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire from the axle.

9

Locate the two mounting bolts that secure the shock into position. There are two bolts, one on the top and one on the bottom. Remove these bolts with the ratchet and socket. Remove the shock from the vehicle.

10

Place the new shock into position. Thread the mounting bolts through the bracket and into the shock. Tighten the bolts with the ratchet and socket.

11

Replace the tire onto the hub of the axle. Tighten the lug nuts and lower the vehicle to the ground.

12

Repeat this process on the opposite side of the vehicle.

Saab cars are manufactured in Sweden, but still have many of the same working parts as U.S.-made cars. If your Saab wont start, try a few diagnostic checks yourself. But if it the problem goes beyond a mere battery change, you might want to contact a professional Saab mechanic.

Instructions

1

Turn the key in the ignition. Check to see if your fuel tank is empty. If there is not enough gas in the tank, your Saab might not start.

2

Attempt to turn your engine over by cranking your key all the way in the ignition. If your Saab clicks or cranks slowly, but does not start, the battery is probably weak or dead.

3

Lift the engine hood and check the battery. Make sure the battery cables are firmly attached before trying to restart the car. If the car continues to click or crank slowly, proceed to Step 3.

4

Jump start your Saab. Use jumper cables to attach your battery to another cars working battery. Both cars should be turned off while connecting the jumper cables. Start the working car and let it run for a few minutes before attempting to start your Saab.

5

Start your Saab. If it starts, then you know the problem was the battery and you can drive to a repair shop to have it replaced. If it doesnt start, you will need to call a tow truck to take your Saab to a repair shop to diagnose the problem. It could be a number of the things, including a faulty starter or transmission issues. Unless you are an experienced mechanic with access to diagnostic tools, the diagnosis is best left to a professional.

Removing the fuel tank from your 1989 Jeep for replacement of the tank, sender or other parts takes a few minutes and a little pre-planning. The tank should be as close to empty as possible to make removal safer and easier. The tank does not have a drain plug, so you will need to siphon the fuel from the tank into an approved storage container before you start or drive it until it is nearly empty. Replacement tanks, sending units and related parts are available at most major auto-parts stores.

Instructions

1

Remove the filler cap from the Jeep and set it aside. Position a jack under the Jeep and raise the rear off the ground, then place a set of jack stands under the rear axle to support the vehicle. Remove the jack for now.

2

Disconnect the fuel filler hose and vent line from the drivers side of the tank, using a flat screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps. Pull the hoses off the tank fitting and let them hang to one side.

3

Position a jack under the skid plate on the fuel tank, then remove the nuts around the edges of the skid plate, using a socket and ratchet. Lower the jack slowly, allowing the fuel tank and skid to drop down from the Jeep until you can reach the hoses and wiring harness connections on top of the tank.

4

Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the fuel sending unit and set it aside. Remove the clamps from the hoses on top of the fuel tank with a flat screwdriver, then disconnect the hoses and set them aside.

5

Lower the jack, dropping the fuel tank and skid plate out of the Jeep as a complete unit. Slide the tank out from under the truck so you can access any part of it required for the repair you are performing.

N14 is the internal designator for the fourth generation of the Nissan Pulsar, which was manufactured from 1990 to 1995. It was also sold under several other names, including the Sentra in New Zealand and the Sunny in Europe. The N14 was available with a variety of four-cylinder engines, ranging in size from 1.3 liters to 2.0 liters. The procedure for installing a fuel injector is generally the same for all N14 vehicles.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuse for the fuel pump located in the fuse block of the engine compartment. Start the vehicle and allow it to stall. Crank the engine for at least three seconds to ensure the fuel system is empty. Replace the fuel pump fuse.

2

Disconnect the cover for the fuel injector with a socket wrench. Note the alignment of the injector terminals and lift the fuel injector straight out of the injector bore. Ensure that you do not bend the electrical terminal on the injector. Discard the old O-rings for the fuel injector.

3

Mount a new lower O-ring onto the fuel injector. Install the injector into the bore by pressing down firmly without damaging the electrical terminal. Rotate the injector within the bore to align its electrical terminal as noted in step two. Mount a new upper O-ring onto the fuel injector.

4

Remove the rubber plug from the cover of the fuel injector. Mount both of the O-rings for the fuel injector cover, and install the cover with a socket wrench. Ensure that the electrical terminal for the fuel injector connects properly with the terminal on the injector cover. Replace the rubber plug on the fuel injector cover.

5

Start the engine and check for leaks in the fuel system.

You can read the trouble codes on your 94 Toyota 4-Runner from your home garage using a computerized handheld device known as an OBD scan tool. This tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer. The 4-Runner comes standard with an on-board diagnostics computer (OBD) that receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. These sensors monitor all functions of the vehicle. Once these codes have been detected, the OBD computer illuminates a service or warning light on your instrument panel. You can read the codes yourself so you can pinpoint exactly what repairs need to be done.

Instructions

1

Find the OBD access port just left of the fuse panel cover on the drivers side dashboard. Plug the scan tool into this port, but do not force it in. If you force it, the pins could bend.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but do not crank the engine. This will power on most OBD scan tools. Note that scan tools vary depending on the manufacturer. Check your scan tools manual for exact instructions.

3

Wait for the scan tool to display "OK." Turn off the vehicle.

4

Press the "Menu" key on your scan tool and scroll through the menu using the arrow keys. Look for the "Stored Codes" option. Select this option. Wait while the scan tool displays the numerical trouble codes. Some scan tools will also display the diagnosis on the display, while others require that you look up the codes in the booklet that came with the scan tool.

5

Unplug the scan tool and have your vehicle repaired by a qualified mechanic.

The 2002 Lexus LS430 came with a 4.3 liter V-8 engine that produced 290 horsepower at 5,600 r.p.m. The fuel economy EPA highway mileage on the 2002 LS430 was 23 m.p.g. and 16 m.p.g. city mileage. The 4.3 liter engine is capable of creating 320 foot-pounds of torque. Checking the coolant on your 4.3 liter LS430 will keep the engine cooled to its proper level and maintain the life of the engine.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your LS430. Stand in the front of the vehicle facing the radiator.

2

Place your hand on the radiator cap momentarily to see if it is hot to the touch. If the radiator cap is hot, do not open it or attempt to break the seal to depressurize the radiator.

3

Remove the radiator cap once you have verified that the engine is cool, or the car has sat without running for over one hour.

4

Visually inspect the fill hole at the top of the radiator. If you can see the metal fins inside the radiator, and you dont see any coolant, then you need to add some.

King pins and bushings are vital steering system parts on large trucks. Regular maintenance and inspection is recommended to ensure safety of the vehicle. If replacement is required, some king pin bushing models require special tools. Tools commonly used for king pin bushing removal and replacement include a press, soft brass drift punch, and a reamer.

Hydraulic Press

A hydraulic press is often used in the removal of a king pin bushing due to the extreme difficulty that can be experienced while attempting to remove the king pin. Removal of the king pin without one is nearly impossible in large trucks like semis and buses. Using a press eliminates the need for sledgehammers and torches, and the hydraulic pressure removes the king pin with little effort. Press tool kits are also available for king pin bushings. Press tool kits are used by inserting the compression nut into a ratchet.

Soft Brass Drift Punch

A soft brass drift punch can be used in place of a hydraulic press to remove the king pin bushing. Generally, it is recommended that an air hammer be used when removing a king pin bushing with a soft brass drift punch, which will make the removal of the king pin easier. The use of a sledgehammer or traditional hammer can take a lot of strength and effort, especially on a large truck. Soft brass drift punches are the best alternative to a hydraulic press because they will not spark or damage other metal parts.

Reamer

Reamers are not used in the replacement of all king pin bushings. Half-ton and three-quarter-ton trucks use what is called a "floating" bushing, recognizable by their bronze color. Floating bushings do not require reaming because they are manufactured to the final size. One-and-one-half-ton trucks do require the bushings to be reamed, because the bushings are press-fit into the spindle. For these types of king pin bushings, a reamer is required. When reaming is required, it is important to avoid honing or burnishing the king pin bushings, which will cause damage to the bushings. Reaming is done with the use of an adjustable straight flute reamer to ensure that no parts are damaged. To use the reamer, it is inserted into the steering knuckle just until the blades touch the bushing. It is then rotated with a slight downward pressure. Applying too much press can also cause damage to the king pin. Driving with a damaged king pin is extremely dangerous, and can cause a loss of control to the vehicle, possibly resulting in an accident.

Power steering ers to steering assisted by a hydraulic pump, a pulley belt controlled by engine speed, a rotary valve device and steering gears. There are two types of power steering: rack-and-pinion steering and the recirculating-ball steering.

Steering Wheel

The steering wheel is a wheel controlled by the driver of the vehicle. When the driver turns the steering wheel, the wheels of the vehicle turn. The steering wheel is the user-controlled part of a power-steering system.

Rotary Valve

A rotary valve is a device that senses the forces applied on a steering wheel. It is part of a spool valve assembly. The rotary valve has a torsion bar. Force applied to a torsion bar causes it to twist and rotate the inside of the spool valve. The top of the torsion bar in the rotary valve connects to the steering wheel. Depending on the steering system, the bottom of the torsion bar connects to the worm gear or the pinion, which turns the wheels. When the spool valve turns, a port opens and allows steering fluid to flow to the appropriate lines. The lines connect to the power cylinder.

Rotary Vane Pump and Pulley

A rotary vane pump provides the hydraulic power for the power steering. The cars engine along with a belt and pulley run the pump. Retractable vanes inside a chamber of the pump spin and force hydraulic fluid to the outlet for the rotary valve. The pump runs faster when the engine is running faster. Higher engine speeds create higher pressure on the fluid flowing to the outlet. The pump also has a pressure-relief valve that opens if there is too much fluid pumping, such as with high engine speeds.

Steering Gear: Rack and Pinion

The steering gear turns the wheels. In a rack-and-pinion steering system, the pressurized fluid pushes on the power cylinder mounted on the rack. The resulting changes in pressure from the fluid moves the rack, making steering easier. The rack is a long metal piece with a flat side. On the flat side there are teeth cut into the edges. A steering shaft connects the steering wheel with the rack. A pinion gear on the end of the shaft connects with the teeth of the rack. On each end of the rack is a tie rod, which connects to the spindle of the wheels.

Steering Gear: Recirculating Ball

In a recirculating-ball system, steel balls roll between the steering shaft and the rack piston. With assistance from the hydraulic system, the rack piston moves up or down on a worm gear to turn the wheels.

Return Line

The return line directs the fluid from the power cylinder back to a reservoir on the pump.

The 1992 Dodge Colt is a two-door hatchback. If you are having problems with your 92 Dodge Colt, there are a few things you can do before you have a mechanic take a look at it. The spark plug on the engine is what sparks it to life. If you have a bad spark plug, you will need to replace it in order for the engine to fire.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Dodge Colt and pop the hood.

2

Locate the spark plug housing on the back of the engine. The spark plug housing is labeled for easy access.

3

Pull the spark plug from the housing with your fingers.

4

Touch the spark plug to your Dodge Colt to look for a spark. If the spark is blue, you need to replace the spark plug.

5

Pull the spark plug from the housing and replace it with a new one. Put the spark plug housing back into the engine and then start the car.

A bumper jack raises a vehicle in either the front or rear to gain access to the parts underneath for repairs. An air bumper jack is a bottle design that uses air pressure to raise and lower the jack. In the manual mode, you pump the handle up and down to add air pressure inside the jack and extend the saddle upwards to raise it. An air compressor connects to the bottle jack to use for raising the jack automatically instead of pumping the handle up and down.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the emergency brake. Place a wheel chock or brick in front of each front wheel if you are jacking the back up. Place a wheel chock or brick behind each rear wheel if you are jacking up the front of a vehicle.

2

Insert one of the two handle pieces that are smooth on both ends into the other. Press the spring pin in one, insert the other and align the pin with the hole in the second piece. The pin will pop out and hold it in position in the hole in the handle. Attach the third handle piece to the bottom of the first two pieces in the same manner. The bottom handle piece has a U-shaped fitting on the bottom end.

3

Insert the bottom of the handle into the release valve on the bottom of the air bottle jack. Turn the handle clockwise as far as it will turn to close the release valve.

4

Turn on an air compressor and let it power up until it cycles off. Attach the air compressor hose to the air compressor by pulling the quick connector ring back, inserting it onto the fitting and releasing the quick connector. Attach the other end of the air compressor hose on the air control valve on the front side of the bottle jack in the same manner.

5

Push the bottle jack with the handle to position it under the vehicle bumper where it attached to the frame while allowing access to the air control valve. The air control valve is above the air compressor hose fitting on the jack. Place a piece of wood or two-by-four board on the round saddle of the bottle jack top.

6

Grasp and squeeze the air control valve to add air to the jack and raise the saddle under the vehicle. Release the air control valve when the vehicle is high enough off the ground.

7

Place a jack stand under the vehicle to support it. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise in the release valve slowly to lower the jack. Pull the jack out from under the vehicle.

The fuel injectors for an Audi A6 deliver fuel to the engines cylinders in a specific sequence, allowing the vehicle to to be more responsive than its carburetted counterparts. The procedure for changing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all A6s.

Instructions

1

Turn off the ignition. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump, using the list on the fuse box as a guide. Start the engine and allow it to idle until it stalls. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Replace the fuel pump fuse.

2

Wrap a clean shop rag around one of the fuel-line connections to the fuel rail. Loosen the retaining nuts for the fuel line with a socket wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Properly dispose of the rag.

3

Remove the retaining nuts for the fuel lines, and detach the fuel lines from the fuel rail. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench, and remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold with the injectors still attached. Turn the fuel injectors counterclockwise to remove them from the fuel rail.

4

Mount a new lower gasket to the nozzle end of the fuel injectors. Clean the threads of the fuel injectors with a clean shop rag, and apply a thin layer of thread-lock compound to the threads. Screw the fuel injectors clockwise with a socket wrench to install them into the fuel rail, and mount a new upper gasket to the open end of the fuel injectors.

5

Mount the fuel rail to the intake manifold, and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail, and fasten the retaining nuts for the fuel lines. Reattach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

You see them every day as you drive down the highway, giant vehicles that are used to distribute our goods and food. As drivers on the road we are extra caul not to get in the way of these trucks. As it is, we see so many accidents involving semi trucks because they are big and bulky. It is important that the driver is in-tune with his truck because even the smallest issue can cause a giant problem. This is why it is so important that the tires on these semi trucks are balanced correctly. This job requires the use of specialized truck tire tools. It should take you about an hour to balance your semi truck tires.

Instructions

1

Park your semi truck on level ground and set the brakes.

2

Block the front and back side of one of the tires you are not working on yet by setting one of the 4x4 blocks in front of a tire and one behind the same tire.

3

Jack up one of the wheels by positioning the big rig jack under the axle and jacking it up. Slide the jack stand under the axle for extra security.

4

Remove the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench by placing the end over the nut and turning the nut counterclockwise.

5

Inspect the operation of the truck bubble balancer. Notice how it works with the plate on top. You will see that there is a bubble in the middle of the balancer. This bubble area looks very much like a carpenters level. You will also see that the balancer has a control lever on the side. This is used to raise the wheel into the balancing mode.

6

Place the semi tire on the balancer plate so that you can see the bubble area through the center of the wheel. Push the lever to raise the tire into the balancing mode.

7

Notice the position of the bubble. The idea is to get that bubble into the center. Lay wheel weights on the tire until you get the bubble in the middle.

8

Install the wheel weights using the weight hammer at the locations on the wheel that center the bubble.

9

Replace the tire on the truck and install the lug nuts with the big rig lug wrench.

10

Remove the jack stand and lower the jack. Repeat for the other tires on the truck.

Car enthusiasts will often modify a cars exhaust system in order to increase the engine performance or get the noise of the engine to achieve a specific pitch. It requires good knowledge of your cars exhaust system, but it can be completed with a minimum of fuss, provided you follow some basic guidelines.

Instructions

1

Raise the car up on a jack or a hydraulic lift so that you can comfortably work on the exhaust system.

2

Note the part of the exhaust system you wish to modify and the point in the line at which it is found. You may also want to note any part of the system which is fused or rusted, since these will be more difficult to remove.

3

Disconnect each part of the exhaust system, one by one, until you reach the part you want to modify. Generally, a welding torch is required, though you may be able to achieve this simply by removing the bolts that connect it. Take care not to damage any surrounding components in the process.

4

Disconnect the old exhaust part you wish to modify and replace it with the new exhaust part. Bolt it or hang it in place on the chassis, but do not tighten the bolts yet. Check that all of the components work correctly before finalizing the addition.

5

Attach the remainder of the original exhaust system to the new part, working backwards down the line until you reach the end of the exhaust system.

6

Check that each connection is in place and there are no leaks or backups.

7

Secure each connection by tightening the bolts or welding them back into place on the chassis.

8

Start the car engine and check the exhaust system for any leaks or blockage. Make sure exhaust is coming from the end of the tailpipe as it should and that the sound is modified correctly by the muffler, and locate and seal any leaks.

9

Adjust the tailpipe to make sure it is flush with the rear bumper and is not too low to the ground.

Putting a new belt on a supercharged Pontiac Grand Prix is nearly identical to putting the belt on a standard Grand Prix. The Grand Prix GTP was introduced in 1997, and with it the supercharged 3800 Series II. The Grand Prix GTP with the supercharged 3800 motor was capable of producing between 200 and 240 horsepower, depending on the use of L36 or L67 engine models. The belt routing between the L36 and L67 is an identical procedure. The Grand Prix was replaced by the Pontiac G6 and G8, before Pontiac was removed in 2009 from the General Motors line of vehicles. Pontiac produced cars since 1926.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and stand on the passenger side of the car facing the belt side of the engine. Loop the belt underneath the bottom pulley or the crank pulley, in the outer track provided. The supercharger belt on the 3800 SC is the outermost belt, as there are two belts on this engine.

2

Hold the belt taught in your right hand so you do not lose your grip on the crank pulley. Run the belts smooth side or back on the front side of the two supercharger idler pulleys. These two idler pulleys are are about three inches in diameter. The lower supercharger idler pulley sits at the two oclock position, just inches above the crank pulley. The upper idler pulley sits on the top front face of the engine.

3

Loop the inside of the belt, or the grooved side, up and over the supercharger. Maintain your grip with your right hand on the belt to maintain your positioning of the belt.

4

Set your left hand on the top of the supercharger pulley and hold the belt still. Slide your right hand down the belt toward the front of the car until you reach the tension pulley.

5

Pull the belt tight again with your right hand, and use a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket with your left hand to push the tension pulley down towards the bottom of the engine. If you feel uncomfortable in this position, set the ratchet down and grab the belt with your left hand. Use your right hand on the tension pulley if this feels more comfortable to you. Slide the belt over the tension pulley, making sure that you keep your hands clear from the point between the belt and pulley.

6

Release the tension pulley and let it retract to its upright position, and remove the ratchet and socket from the tension assembly.

7

Inspect your work to make sure the belt is centered on each pulley, and sitting in the proper channels provided in the crank pulley. Clockwise from the supercharger, your belt should go to the front side of the tension pulley, down and around the bottom of the crank pulley, up around the front sides of both idler pulleys, and back to the supercharger.

The Kuryakyn Hypercharger is a high-flow air cleaner designed to look like a velocity stack or a supercharger. Trap doors on the front of the air cleaner open and close as you open and close the throttle. You will have less leg room with the Hypercharger installed on your Harley than with a stock air cleaner. But even detractors agree that the Hypercharger is a beautiful accessory. Kuryakyn claims that the Hypercharger will add seven horsepower to your Harley over a stock air cleaner.

Instructions

1

Remove your air cleaner cover with an Allen wrench.

2

Remove the air cleaner assembly with Torx sockets or drivers. Remove the breather tubes by hand. Remove the air cleaner backing plate with a socket wrench and hex socket.

3

Close the petcock. Start your Harley and run it until the carburetor is out of gas.

4

Mark the throttle cables with masking tape and disconnect them from the throttle cam. Disconnect the fuel line where it enters the carburetor. Disconnect the enricher from the left side of the Harley.

5

Pull the carburetor from the black rubber exhaust manifold boot by hand.

6

Cut a 1-1/2-inch section of vacuum hose from the hose included with your Hypercharger kit. Assemble the vacuum T included with your kit to form a vacuum line assembly, which will replace your original breather tubes.

7

Install the vacuum hose assembly on your carburetor as shown in your Hypercharger kit.

8

Reinstall the carburetor in the intake manifold boot. Reconnect the throttle cables and the fuel line. Reconnect the enricher to the left side of the motorcycle.

9

Attach the chrome carburetor support bracket to the mouth of the carburetor with the hollow bolts and cup washer included in the kit. Sandwich the intake gasket between the carburetor and the support bracket and tighten the bolts.

10

Assemble the rubber boot assembly included with your Hypercharger as shown in the kit. Snap the breather boots in the assembly over the cup washers.

11

Remove the round trap door in the Hypercharger with a 1/8-inch Allen wrench. Insert three 1/4-inch socket head cap screws through the mounting holes in the Hypercharger from the inside. Remove the adhesive backing from one of the intake gaskets and place it over the three mounting screws.

12

Sandwich the intake gasket between the breather manifold and support bracket. Position the Hypercharger over the breather manifold and bolt the Hypercharger securely to the carburetor support bracket/ breather manifold assembly.

13

Replace the trap door and gasket.

14

Plug the vacuum hose assembly into the vacuum pod air jet on the back of the Hypercharger.

The Honda Accord is the mid-level offering in Hondas Civic, Accord and Camry line of cars. In 1990, the Accord was made 5 inches longer. It received a larger 2.2-liter, four-cylinder engine and two new transmissions, a five-speed manual or a four-speed automatic. The five-speed manual transmission features a hydraulically actuated clutch, with a master cylinder mounted on the firewall next to the brake master cylinder and a slave cylinder mounted on the bell housing.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the Accord with a jack and support it with jack stands on each side of the vehicle.

2

Locate the clutch master cylinder next to the brake master cylinder. Clean the top of the master cylinder with a shop rag. Fill the cylinder with fresh brake fluid if necessary.

3

Put on safety goggles. Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder with a wrench but do not open it yet. The clutch slave cylinder is located on the drivers side of the car on the bell housing. Fill a plastic bottle about 1/3 full of brake fluid. Attach a 3-foot length of clear plastic tubing to the bleeder screw and insert the other end into the plastic bottle so it is below the level of the fluid.

4

Instruct an assistant to depress the clutch pedal three or four times and then hold pressure on the pedal. Open the bleeder screw with a wrench while your assistant maintains pressure on the pedal. Brake fluid and air bubbles will exit the slave cylinder. Close the bleeder screw. Your assistant can now release the pressure on the clutch pedal.

5

Check the fluid level in the master cylinder. You must keep checking the fluid level, as you bleed the slave cylinder, because it will go down every time you open the bleeder screw. Repeat the above process until no air exits the slave cylinder.

6

Wipe up any spilled brake fluid with a shop rag. Raise the front of the vehicle with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle. Make sure the master cylinder is full.

A Chevy exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve is a necessary part of the cars emissions system. It works by rerouting some of the exhaust gases back into the intake manifold rather than into the atmosphere.

Types

There are several types of EGR valves with the same function but different modes of operation. Older EGR valves are purely mechanical and run on vacuum; on many newer Chevrolet and other GM models, the valve is controlled entirely by computer. This type uses multiple solenoids to open the valve in response to input from the cars computer, opening and closing the valve to allow exhaust gas flow.

Operation

Whether the EGR valve uses vacuum or electronic control, it opens when exhaust gases reach a certain temperature or level of backpressure. When the EGR valve opens, some of the exhaust is rerouted to the intake manifold. Since it is less combustible than the air-fuel mixture in the manifold, the temperature drops.

Functions

The main function of an EGR valve is to lower the amount of nitrogen oxide a car releases into the atmosphere. A failed EGR valve prevents a car from passing emissions testing, if required. The valves secondary function is to lower the temperature in the intake manifold.

The rocker arm in a combustion engine translates the rotation of the camshaft into the linear movement needed to open the intake valve of the cylinder head. The Ford 390 engine appears on various Ford vehicles from 1961 to 1976, such as some 1968 Mustangs. The rocker shafts on this engine are part of the intake manifold assembly, so the rocker shaft installation procedure requires the removal of any components needed to access the intake manifold.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant from the radiator into a container, and store the coolant for later use.

2

Detach the radiator hose from the housing of the thermostat, and remove the bypass hose from the intake manifold. Disconnect the air cleaner and ducts from the the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the distributor cap, and detach its electrical wiring from the engine.

3

Mark the distributor housing to indicate the rotors position, and detach the electrical primary wire from the ignition coil. Disconnect the hold-down bolt for the distributor, and remove the distributor from the intake manifold.

4

Detach the vacuum lines on the intake manifold, and disconnect the electrical wire for the temperature sending unit. Remove the vacuum lines and fuel line from the carburetor. Disconnect the linkages that attach the carburetor to the intake manifold.

5

Disconnect the valve covers with a socket wrench. Turn the four mounting bolts for the rocker shaft two turns counterclockwise, proceeding from front to back. Repeat this until you disconnect all of the mounting bolts for the rocker shaft.

6

Mount the new rocker shaft and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Tighten each bolt two full turns at a time, proceeding from back to front.

7

Install the remaining components by performing steps two through four in reverse sequence. Use the mark that you made on the distributor housing in Step 3 to install the distributor in the correct position. Refill the radiator with coolant, and check the vehicle for fluid leaks.

A faulty brake magnet can severely impact the stopping power of a trailer. While some magnet problems will be apparent upon visual inspection, there may also be electrical problems that can impact performance. A compromised brake magnet can lead to weak or surging brakes, or cause the brakes to pull to one side. It is important to inspect and test the magnets each time the brakes are worked on to ensure maximum effectiveness.

Instructions

1

Jack the trailer up high enough that each wheel turns freely. Secure the trailer with blocks under the frame at each end and on both sides to reduce the danger of the trailer falling on you should the jacks fail.

2

Remove the lug nuts and pull the tires and rims off of each axle.

3

Take off the grease cap and remove the cotter pin and castle nut. If there is a spindle washer, remove this too. Gently remove the outer bearing, drum, seal and inner bearing.

4

Locate the brake magnet. Take a straight edge tool and lay it across the top of the magnet. The edge of the magnet should be parallel to the straight edge all the way across. Any pitting or changes in the magnets surface indicate abnormal wear and the magnet should be replaced.

5

Check the center of the magnet for copper coil. If any coil can be seen, the magnet is worn out and should be replaced.

6

Visually inspect the magnet for grease or oil residue. If any is found, replace the magnet.

7

Check the magnet for short circuits. Disconnect the leads and the strain relief so that you can pull the leads through the backing plate. Unclip the leads from the lever arm and disconnect the magnet. Connect the positive battery terminal to one end of the ammeter lead and the other end to one of the magnet wires. Use a piece of 16-gauge wire and connect the magnet housing to the negative battery terminal. The ammeter should not show a current reading. If it does, a short exists and the magnet should be replaced.

8

Keeping the magnet wire connected to the ammeter lead, take the other magnet wire and attach it to the negative battery terminal. Take the other ammeter lead and attach it to the positive terminal. An amp reading of 3.2 or more at 12 volts means there is a short circuit in the coil and the magnet should be replaced.

9

Check the brake lining, shoes and repack the bearings if needed while the wheel assembly is apart. Put the parts back on the axle in the opposite order of how you removed them.

Most Saab 900s produced since 1996 come standard with a key-less entry system that allows you to lock and unlock the car with a key fob. If you replace the battery in the key fob or need to replace a lost key fob, you will need to reprogram the device. Reprogramming, after replacing the battery, takes just a few seconds and can be done yourself while programming a new key fob will take 30 to 60 minutes at a dealership or repair center.

Instructions

Programming After Battery Replacement

1

Stand near the car and press the "Unlock" button five times in quick succession.

2

Listen for a beep or chirp from the car to signal that you have successfully reprogrammed the fob.

3

Remove the battery and reinsert it into the fob if the programming wasnt successful. Move closer to the car. Press the "Unlock" button five times again quickly.

Programming a New Fob

4

Verify that you have one working key fob. Without at least one working fob, you will not be able to program additional fobs without replacing the Column Integrated Module (CIM).

5

Visit a repair shop or dealer with a GM Tech II scan tool. Only someone with this device can program a new key fob.

6

Bring all working keys and fobs when you get the new fob programmed. Any old fobs will be removed from the system at this time and will no longer work. You can have up to four fobs per car.

Replacing the vinyl lettering on a Range Rover can be done without too many headaches with a few common household materials and a little skill. Removing the vinyl lettering will allow you to easily replace the original Range Rover lettering with whatever you may want to put on the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Saturate a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol.

2

Rub the alcohol saturated cotton ball over each vinyl letter you want to remove from the Range Rover. Make sure that as you do this you thoroughly coat each vinyl letter with alcohol. The alcohol will either eat away at the vinyl or the glue underneath, allowing you to remove the lettering.

3

Scrape each letter off using the scraping knife caully so that you do not damage the paint on the vehicle. It will help to have an alcohol saturated cotton ball with you as you do this because it may be necessary to re-saturate each letter with alcohol as you are scraping it off.

4

Rub an alcohol-saturated cotton ball over the area where all of the lettering was, cleaning up any glue residue that may remain. This will prepare the area for placing new graphics or lettering on the vehicle.

5

Measure the area that you wish to place the new vinyl letters or graphics.

6

Measure the vinyl graphics or lettering and make sure that they will fit in the area that you wish to place them.

7

Tape with masking tape the top of the graphics or lettering to the top of the area on the vehicle you want to place the new graphics or lettering.

8

Peel off the backing on the vinyl letters or graphics that you wish to place on the vehicle.

9

Rub the letters or graphics into place with the squeegee. The glue on the letters or graphics will attach them to the vehicle.

10

Rub alcohol caully with a cotton swab over any excess glue leaking out under the edges of the letters or graphics.

The GL1100 Gold Wing was introduced in 1980 and was based off the GL1000. The GL1100 was equipped with an 1,085-cc displacement, liquid-cooled opposed, four-cylinder engine. High performance valve timing and 30-mm bore carburetors contributed to its well deserved reputation of power and reliability. Performing engine repairs, such as general maintenance and routine adjustments, are in general not difficult on this motorcycle. However, replacing the head gasket is a challenging repair job. This repair job can be done without removing the engine from the motorcycle.

Instructions

1

Lift the motorcycle onto its center stand. Drain the coolant from the petcock at the bottom of the radiator into a drain pan. Dispose of the used antifreeze in accordance with local disposal laws. Remove the black bolts at the bottom of the radiator and slide the radiator forward. Remove spark plug wires from the spark plugs and set them aside.

2

Remove the eight bolts holding the plastic camshaft belt covers. Remove the camshaft belt covers and set them aside. Mark the position of the cam sprockets with a tic-mark on the cylinder block and a matching mark on the camshaft sprocket. Loosen the timing belt tensioners and remove the timing belt.

3

Remove the fuel pump if working on the right side of the engine. Remove the electronic ignition reluctor and cover if working on the left side of the engine. Remove the four bolts holding the valve covers and set the covers aside. Remove the four bolts holding down the intake manifolds.

4

Remove the six bolts holding the rocker shaft covers and remove rocker shafts. Remove the two bolts holding the camshaft pulley back plate. Tap the rocker shaft with a rubber mallet if necessary to assist in removal.

5

Remove the exhaust manifold bolts. Remove the six 10-mm cylinder head bolts and the the one small 6-mm bolt at bottom of head. Tap the head off using a rubber mallet. Bump the engine with the starter if the head is difficult to remove. This method uses the natural compression of the engine to pop the head loose.

6

Remove the oil restrictor orifice from crankcase. Remove all traces of old head gasket with a gasket scraper and rag. Ensure the block and head mating surfaces are clean, shiny and all traces of the old head gasket are removed. Clean the oil restrictor and ensure no sludge or other dirt is in the orifice passage in the block. Clean all carbon from the head using a wire brush and scraper. Check the head check for cracks or other damage. Repair any problems with the head as required.

7

Install the clean oil orifice using two new O rings. Replace O rings on the head water pipe with new ones and lubricate them with motor oil. Install the head onto the block finger tight using a new head gasket. Do not use any kind of sealer on the gasket, it must be installed dry.

8

Tighten the six 10-mm head bolts to 40 ft-lb with a torque wrench in a crisscross pattern. Install the 6-mm bolt at bottom of the head and torque to 10 ft-lb. Install the intake manifolds with the correct bolts. Ensure the manifold O rings are in good condition or replace as required.

9

Install the camshaft in the head and tighten the six camshaft bolts to 21 ft-lb. Install the camshaft pulley back plate using a new gasket and tighten the bolts to 9 ft-lb. Install the new timing belts using the alignment marks from Step 2 as erence. Tighten down the timing belt adjusters when everything is lined up. Ensure everything is correct before proceeding to the next steps.

10

Install the electronic ignition reluctor and cover plate or fuel pump as required. Replace the exhaust manifold bolts. Replace the valve cover and radiator bolts. Fill the radiator up to the recommended level with new antifreeze. Replace the spark plug wires onto the spark plugs.

11

Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system. Add coolant as necessary when the engine warms up to normal operating temperature.

Pontiac has always been GMs excitement division, and its V-8 production strategy was one reason its stayed that way for so long. Unlike many other divisions that had large- and small-block engine families, Pontiac had only one engine that spanned from 265 all the way up to 455 cubic inches. Smaller-displacement engines like the 350 were oft-overlooked cult classics, mostly because of serious junkyard upgrades in the form of higher flowing heads, intakes and cam packages for the 428 and 455.

Rotation Direction

Most V-8 and V-6 engines use common-journal crankshafts, meaning that the connecting rods from two opposing cylinders ride on one arm of the crankshaft. Such is the case here: Pistons 1 and 2 share a crankshaft arm, as do 3 and 4, 5 and 6, and 7 and 8. Knowing this, and the fact that the even numbers are on the passenger side of the block, you can figure out the direction of rotation from the engines firing order.

The Pontiacs firing order is 2-1-8-4-3-6-5-7. Notice that in this order, you have a couple of pairs: 2-1 and 6-5. Since you know that those cylinders share a common arm, you can deduce that the crankshaft hits the passenger side first, and then the driver side. Theore, the crankshaft rotation is clockwise when looking at the engine from the front, counterclockwise when looking at it from the rear. Inside the distributor, the rotor spins counterclockwise.

The 2002 BMW X5 battery is located in the trunk, beneath the spare tire. When you need to replace the battery in your X5, you need to remove the spare tire from the trunk to access it. Buy a replacement battery from an auto parts retailer or BMW dealer. Change the battery yourself at home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a mechanic do the job.

Instructions

1

Remove the key from the ignition. Open the trunk of the X5.

2

Lift up the carpet lining above the spare tire. Remove the four retaining nuts around the center of the spare tire with a 10-mm socket attached to a ratchet.

3

Lift the spare tire out of the trunk. Remove the bolts on each end of the crossbar over the battery with a 13-mm socket and ratchet. Lift the crossbar out of the trunk. Loosen the negative battery cable with a 10-mm socket and ratchet. Remove the cable from the battery. Repeat the process on the positive cable.

4

Lift the battery out of the trunk. Insert the new battery in the same alignment as the old one. Attach the positive battery cable and tighten it with the 10-mm socket and ratchet. Repeat the process with the negative cable. Replace the crossbar and secure the bolts with a 13-mm socket and ratchet.

5

Replace the spare tire. Secure the retaining nuts with a 10-mm socket and ratchet set. Replace the carpet over the spare tire area and close the trunk.

Electric oil pressure gauges are easy for a DIY-mechanic to install, whether replacing a faulty oil pressure gauge, or a custom, after-market look is desired. Oil pressure gauges are designed to inform the driver when the oil falls below a safe operating level, or when the oil pressure is too high. Driving a vehicle without an oil pressure gauge can lead to catastrophic engine failure. Most oil pressure gauges come with mounting panels and the necessary installation hardware. The necessary hardware can be purchased from an auto parts dealer, if not included with the oil pressure gauge.

Instructions

1

Choose a suitable location to mount the oil pressure gauge; mount the gauge so it is easily viewed while driving. Common mounting locations for aftermarket oil pressure gauges include under the dash, on top of the dash, or set into the dashboard.

2

Mount the gauge panel to the dash with a screwdriver and screws provided in the kit; set the gauge aside. This makes it easier to connect the wires. If mounting the gauge in the dash, drill a hole in the dash 1/8-inch larger in diameter than the size of the gauge.

3

Remove the oil drain plug from the oil pan with a wrench and drain the old oil into a oil catch pan. This is an opportune time to change the oil filter as well.

4

Remove the old oil pressure sending unit with a ratchet and socket; the oil pressure sending unit is shaped like a cylinder and is usually located near the oil filter. Refer to the new oil pressure sending unit in the oil pressure gauge kit to help you identify the part.

5

Connect the signal wire to the sending unit and run it through a grommet in the firewall in close proximity to the gauge. Run the wire through the gauge panel hole, or the pre-drilled hole in the dashboard, allowing extra wire for easy connecting.

6

Connect the signal wire to the post on the back of the gauge. The gauge posts are marked for correct wire installation.

7

Run a power supply wire from a switched 12-volt power supply, such as the cigarette lighter, dome light, radio, or fuel pump, to the power post on the gauge. The power supply must be switched to operate on and off with the ignition.

8

Run a ground wire from the vehicle chassis to the ground post on the gauge; a poor ground can result in an inoperable gauge or false reading. Use an existing grommet in the firewall, or drill a hole in the body of the vehicle, and route the wire to the chassis or frame.

9

Mount the gauge into the gauge panel, or the hole in the dash, with the supplied mounting hardware in the kit.

10

Install the oil pan drain plug and fill the engine with oil.

11

Start the engine to check the operation of the gauge.

Since its invention in the 1940s, air conditioning has changed considerably. Now, air conditioning systems are computer controlled, giving the driver unprecedented control over the level of airflow and temperature. The three main components in any air conditioning system are the compressor, the evaporator and the receiver dryer. These three components work in tandem to cool incoming air and filter it into the car. Ford is not alone in using air conditioning in its automobiles, with most of its models coming with air conditioning as standard.

Manual Control

Manual control air conditioning is the standard specification given to most Ford cars. Models such as the Focus come with manual control air conditioning, with the option to upgrade for an additional cost. Manual air conditioning systems require the driver to manually turn them on. A button or a dial on the dashboard usually controls this. The driver can then select the level of blower by turning the fan level up or down. The restriction on a manual system is that the driver has no control over the temperature, having to feel when it is just right. The system is also unable to maintain a pre-programmed ambient temperature and will often require adjusting manually.

Automatic Temperature Control

Using a complicated array of both internal and external sensor, automatic temperature control calculates the current temperature and how to either raise or lower the ambient temperature to the preselected level. The automatic temperature control works with both the heater and air conditioning to maintain the appropriate temperature and prevent humidity levels within the car from causing the windows to fog over. The systems come in two varieties, semi and fully automatic. A semi-automatic system will maintain the temperature set by the driver, while a full-automatic system will do this and also operate other devices such as defrosters, heated seats and more.

Dual Electronic Automatic Temperature Control

DEATC, or Dual Electronic Automatic Temperature Control, is a system that is available in several newer Ford models, often as an optional extra. The system works as an automatic temperature control system, which allows users to select the temperature desired, and the system using advanced sensors throughout the vehicle will ensure that temperature is maintained. Unlike normal automatic temperature control systems, however, the DEATC is capable of maintaining two separate temperature regions, usually the left and right of the car. Other manufacturers use this system but call it climate control.

Motorcycle batteries, unlike car and marine batteries, require routine maintenance. Most motorcycle batteries are vented, meaning battery acid can breathe from a small tube if the battery gets too hot or the bike tips over. When a new battery is required, its best to look for a sealed alternative to the older vented-style battery -- they require less maintenance and typically last longer. Changing the battery should pose few problems, even for the novice motorcycle mechanic.

Instructions

Remove Seat

1

Locate the key slot on the side of the bike just below the seat.

2

Insert the ignition key and turn it with one hand while lifting up gently on the back of the seat. The seat should lift freely once the key is turned.

3

Remove the seat and set it aside, then pull the battery cover to the side to reveal the battery terminals.

4

Close the battery pliers around the nut securing the negative (black) battery terminal and turn it counterclockwise until the nut spins freely. Lift the negative battery lead off the terminal and place it to the side. Repeat for the positive terminal. Note: When using metal pliers, make sure the pliers do not come into contact with any other metal parts on the motorcycle. Sparking and battery explosion could occur.

5

Lift out the dead battery and discard it according to your trash haulers recommendation. Insert the new battery facing the same direction and reinstall it by following steps 4 and 3 in reverse.

You can replace the exhaust system on the Jeep Wrangler in pieces or completely from the engine to the rear of the Jeep. The system uses a header pipe, a catalytic converter, and a muffler and tailpipe assembly. In most cases the muffler and tailpipe assembly is the only section you will replace, unless you are adding a performance system. The entire system bolts together and hangs onto a few rubber hangers for ease of replacement.

Instructions

1

Jack up the Jeep and support all four corners by placing jack stands under the frame rails. Get the Jeep high enough to work comfortably under it while still allowing you to reach all the bolts.

2

Remove the two rubber hangers that hold the tailpipe assembly behind the axle. They will just pull off the mounts on the frame with a little effort.

3

Locate the flange where the muffler and tailpipe assembly joins the catalytic converter. Remove the two bolts, using a wrench or socket and ratchet, and separate the flange. Slide the muffler and tailpipe out from under the Jeep.

4

Locate the flange at the front of the catalytic converter, and remove the three bolts in that flange using a wrench or socket and ratchet. Remove the converter from the Jeep by sliding it out of the rubber hanger to the left side of the converter.

5

Locate the four studs on the base of the exhaust manifold where the head pipe attaches. Remove the four nuts using a deep socket and ratchet.

6

Remove the head pipe by lowering it down from the Jeep. Install the new head pipe by sliding it up into position and installing the four nuts onto the studs. Do not tighten them completely yet.

7

Install the new catalytic converter by first sliding the mounting rod into the rubber mount under the Jeep. Align the mounting flange with the one on the head pipe, and loosely install the three mounting bolts.

8

Slide the new muffler and tailpipe assembly into position under the Jeep, and slide the two mounting rods into the rubber mounts on the frame rail. Align the mounting flange with the flange at the back of the catalytic converter, and install the two bolts that connect them.

9

Start at the head pipe and tighten the bolts, working your way toward the back of the Jeep until all the bolts are tight. Check each location where the pipes join to be sure there are no exhaust leaks.

A blow off valve is a device that allows recirculating air to exit the intake/exhaust system on a turbocharged vehicle. Without the blow off valve, air would be forced back into the turbochargers compression wheel when the drivers foot is taken off the accelerator, causing undue stress on the turbos components. This, in turn, slows turbo spool up time. Over time, this could cause the turbo to fail. Installing a blow off valve gives the air a place to go and relieves pressure from the turbos compression wheel during gear shifts (when the drivers foot is off the accelerator).

Instructions

1

Open the hood and disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery terminal.

2

Remove the battery.

3

Locate the factory recirculating valve. Use your shop manual if you need a visual description for the valve specific to your vehicle. This valve recirculates the intake air to the exhaust. This is the device we want to replace. There will be two hoses connected to vacuum lines. The top vacuum line is connected to the throttle body after the intake. This vacuum pressure is what makes the valve operate.

4

Use either a screwdriver or socket wrench (either should work) to remove the screw bolts on the hose clamps.

5

Slide the hose clamps out of the way and use the screwdriver to pry both the vacuum lines off.

6

Install the new blow off valve. Install the hoses the opposite way of removal.

7

Put the batter back in and reconnect the positive cable to the battery first, then the negative cable.

Replacing the timing belt on your 2002 Kia Spectra is a task that you must schedule as part of routine maintenance when the car reaches approximately 60,000 miles. It is generally agreed in the auto world that you need a new one about every 60,000 miles since the belt like other moving parts will wear. While it is certainly more complicated than simply replacing a fan belt, its still something that you can do in your driveway and youre much better off to do it as part of your maintenance schedule than it is to have the belt break and leave you stranded on the highway.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2

Remove the accessory drive belts using the proper size socket to loosen the alternator and push it toward the engine.

3

Remove the alternator using the proper size socket and ratchet.

4

Remove the water pump and crankshaft pulleys using the proper size socket and ratchet.

5

Remove the timing belt guide plate with a wrench.

6

Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers with a socket and ratchet.

7

Position the crankshaft so that the notch on it lines up with the timing mark on the engine. If your motor is dirty and grimy, use a grease rag to clean the area so the marks will be visible.

8

Remove the timing belt tensioner using a wrench and then take off the timing belt.

9

Reinstall the timing belt tensioner using the proper size wrench and then move it to its furthest point and tighten the lock bolt.

10

Install the timing belt on the pulleys: crankshaft pulley first, then the idler pulley, exhaust camshaft pulley, intake camshaft pulley, and finally, on the tensioner pulley.

11

Loosen the tensioner pulley using a wrench and allow the spring to place the proper tension on the timing belt. Now tighten the tensioner pulley and torque the bolts to 28 to 38 foot-pounds.

12

Rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise using the proper size wrench and make sure that the timing marks still line up properly.

13

Reinstall the upper and lower timing belt covers and tighten them using the appropriately sized socket.

14

Re-attach the timing belt guide plate using a socket.

15

Reinstall the water pump and crankshaft pulleys using the proper size socket and ratchet and make sure they are tight.

16

Put the alternator in place and secure it with its bolt loosely.

17

Reinstall the accessory belt over all the accessory pulleys.

18

Pull the alternator toward the front of the car and tighten it when the accessory belt is drawn tight. Be caul not to make the accessory belt too tight. You should be able to push the belt about a half inch.

19

Reconnect the battery cable and start the car to test the installation.

The Center for Auto Safety (CAS) has recieved numerous consumer complaints concerning Mazda RX-7 seat belt failure and airbag defects. Seat belts failing to properly restrain passengers have been an issue for Mazda since 1977. In newer Mazdas, airbags have been trouble prone, states Clarence Ditlow of the CAS.

Recalls

The 1990 Mazda RX-7 airbags have never been recalled, according to Consumer Guide. However, Anapol Schwartz attorneys list a recall of 1990 Mazda RX-7 frontal airbags. According to the attorneys, threaded inflator components of the airbags may have been damaged during assembly. This may have allowed airbag components to separate when deploying the air bag. The separation in the faulty airbags allows hot combustion gases to escape into the passenger area, which could result in injuries.

Models

According to Edmunds, both side and curtain airbags come stock in all 1990 Mazda RX-7 models, including the Base, GTU, Turbo, GXL and 2+2 GXL.

Tests

The Mazda RX-7 of 1990 has no safety test information available about the airbags from either the NHTSA or IIHS.

Every vehicle manufactured with an air-conditioning system prior to 1994 contains R12 rigerant. Since then, the EPA determined that R12 is harmful to the environment, and the Clean Air Act banned the use of such ozone-depleting substances. A more environmentally conscious alternative is available that requires few new parts and can be completed at home with little professional help. Retrofit your cars R12 system to a more efficient R134a cooling system.

Instructions

1

Drive your vehicle to a certified air-conditioning repair shop. Allow a qualified technician to remove all remaining R12 rigerant from your system using a rigerant recovery system. Federal law prohibits the release of this gas into the air.

2

Instruct the repair shop to flush the system to remove all traces of mineral oil. This will also remove any solid contaminates from the compressor. Mineral oil is not compatible with R134a PAG (polyalkylene glycol) oil, and mixing them could lead to compressor failure. Another option is to use ester oil, which is compatible with both R12 and R134a rigerants.

3

Return home to complete the conversion. Begin by attaching the new adapters to the old valves. There are two valves: the high-pressure valve is the larger one, and the low-pressure valve is the smaller one. The low-pressure valve is on the line that runs from the accumulator to the compressor, and the high-pressure valve is on the line from the compressor to the condenser. The adapters screw onto the existing ports on the old R12 system, and will attach only one way so you cannot screw them onto the wrong valve. Check the repair manual for a diagram if you are unsure of the location of the valves.

4

Inspect the valves, hoses and pressure switches for any signs of wear or excessive oil buildup. Replace any parts that leak or show excessive wear so the R134a rigerant will not leak from the same place. R134a has much smaller molecules than R12, so a small R12 leak could be a large R134a leak.

5

Check your vehicles repair manual for the exact amount of oil to add to the compressor via the low-pressure fitting to lubricate the system. Use the oil and hose included in the conversion kit.

6

Connect the can of R134a to the hose included in the conversion kit. Turn the T-valve directly on top of the can to puncture it, then very slowly turn it the opposite direction to release a small amount of rigerant from the hose. This removes all air from the hose so it will not be trapped in the system.

7

Close the T-valve fully and connect the other end of the hose to the low-pressure valve on the line from the accumulator to the compressor. The hose will fit only the low-pressure valve.

8

Turn on the vehicle and run the air conditioner at the coldest setting. Hold the can of rigerant upright and open the T-valve to allow the rigerant to go into the air-conditioning system. The compressor may not turn on instantly. There is a cutoff switch to prevent damage from low system pressure. Once enough rigerant fills the system, the compressor will engage.

9

Watch the gauge on the hose connected to the can of R134a to add the appropriate amount of rigerant to the system. Overfilling or underfilling may affect the systems cooling ability. Once the system is full, turn the T-valve completely off and remove the other end from the low-pressure fitting.

10

Place the plastic caps on the low- and high-pressure fittings and apply the retrofit R134a label in a prominent place to indicate that the vehicle uses R134a rigerant. The caps and label are included in the conversion kit.

1995 Dodge trucks use a system called an On-Board Diagnostics computer to monitor the vital functions of the vehicles. When any of a trucks systems fail, it causes a warning light to illuminate on the instrument panel. The computer also keeps track of the trucks regular servicing needs. After the Dodge has been serviced or repaired, you or your mechanic will need to clear the trouble codes from the computer using a diagnostic code scanner. This can be purchased from any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers door and find the diagnostic scanner port. You can find it on the underside of the drivers dash.

2

Push the diagnostic code scanners connector cable into the diagnostic port on the Dodge.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "run" position, taking care not to start the engine.

4

Search the trouble codes using the instructions in the manual that came with the scanner. When it is finished, press the command "Clear Trouble Codes."

5

Disconnect the scanner and turn on the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.

Suzuki markets the Suzuki Cultus under a variety of names, including the Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro and Suzuki Swift. The engine for the 1998 Chevy Metro is a four-cylinder 1.3-liter engine with multiport fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel under high pressure. The fuel pump for the 1998 Chevy Metro is in the fuel tank, so you must remove the fuel tank when you replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Open the cap for the fuel tank, and remove the control relay in the fuse box. Start the engine, and allow it to stall. Crank the engine for a few seconds to ensure no fuel remains in the fuel system. Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench to ensure you dont accidentally start the engine.

2

Remove the rear seat cushion, and disconnect the electrical wiring for the fuel gauge in the bottom of the rear seat. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter, and connect the open end of the fuel line to a hose. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank into a gasoline container.

3

Disconnect the hoses for the fuel pipes on the fuel tank. Detach the fuel filler hose and breather hose from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands, and disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Release the clamps for the fuel hoses to the fuel pump assembly. Remove the mounting screws for the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench, and detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Lift the fuel pump assembly and gasket from the fuel tank.

5

Install the new fuel pump by reversing steps 1 through 4. Fill the fuel tank, and turn on the ignition to pressurize the fuel system. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

The On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD) in a 2006 Chevy has a maintenance light that turns on when your vehicle is ready for an oil change. You need to change the oil and manually reset the light. All you need to reset and turn off the light is a few moments of your time and your ignition key. Dont attempt to reset the light before you change the oil, as the computer wont be able to keep track of when your next oil change is due.

Instructions

1

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "Run", but dont start the engine.

2

Push down on the accelerator three times within five seconds. Make sure you press the pedal all the way to the floor each time. Examine the instrument cluster to see if the engine oil light is flashing. Let it flash until it stops, probably in about ten seconds.

3

Turn off the vehicle and remove the key. Wait a minute, and then put the key back in the ignition and start the engine. Verify that the engine oil light has turned off. If it hasnt, repeat the process. You may have to press down harder and faster on the pedal.