Repair And Fix it

Removing either the front or rear bumper on the Jeep Cherokee requires basic hand tools and a few minutes time. Even a novice home mechanic can complete the process in the driveway at home or in the garage. The bumpers are not heavy so you can do the job by yourself but a second set of hands is helpful to support the bumper as the last bolts come out. The mounts never changed over the entire production run of the Cherokee, so no matter what year Cherokee you own, the bumpers come off the same way.

Instructions

Front Bumper

1

Slide under the front of your Jeep and locate the mounts where the bumper and frame rails meet. There are two side plates, one on the each side of the frame, with three bolts securing them to the frame.

2

Loosen the three bolts on both sides of the Jeep with a socket and ratchet. Remove two on each side but leave one in place so the bumper does not fall.

3

Remove the last two bolts, while supporting the bumper. Pull the bumper straight off the front off the Jeep. On older models, there may be a vacuum line attached to a ball on the inside of the bumper. Pull the line off when you remove the bumper.

Rear Bumper

4

Open the lift gate on the rear of your Jeep Cherokee then slide under the rear bumper of the Jeep. Locate the bumper mounts on the body of the Jeep; there are four bolts on each mounts that thread into the body.

5

Remove three of the four bolts from each mount using a socket and ratchet. Leave one bolt on each mount to keep the bumper from falling on you.

6

Remove the final bolt on one side with a socket and ratchet while supporting the bumper. Slide to the opposite mount and remove the final bolt there as well.

7

Pull the bumper straight off the rear of the Jeep. Set the bumper aside and close the rear lift gate.

Harley-Davidson driving lights mount on the front forks of Softails. The driving lights may add slightly to your view of the road at night. They add significantly to the recognition by oncoming drivers that you are there. The pattern formed by a headlight and two driving lights is conspicuous, and driving lightbulbs are often yellow, so even drunks are inclined to slow down when they see you coming. The popular Heritage Softail Classic, styled to look like a mid-60s hog, comes equipped with three lights as standard equipment. If that is the effect you are trying to achieve, numerous aftermarket vendors, including Harley and Kuryakyn, sell driving light kits. These instructions are specific to recent, fuel-injected Softails.

Instructions

Remove Fuel Tank

1

Remove the electrical caddy cover by pulling on it with both hands. Pry the fuel pump fuse out of the electrical caddy with a small, flathead screwdriver.

2

Start the engine in neutral and run the engine until it dies. Run the starter for four more seconds.

3

Disconnect the fuel supply line by pulling up on the chrome sleeve of the fuel tank quick-connect fitting and pulling down on the fuel supply line.

4

Unscrew the bolt that secures the seat tab to the rear fender. Recent Softails use a Phillips screw, which must be removed with a screwdriver. Older Softails use an Allen bolt, which comes off with an Allen wrench.

5

Remove the seat to access the battery compartment. Disconnect the negative battery wire from the negative terminal with an open-end wrench.

6

Remove the instrument panel by loosening and removing the acorn nut on the panel with an Allen wrench and pulling up. Unplug the fuel pump module connector under the instrument panel.

7

Push a 5/16-inch-diameter bolt in one end of a foot long piece of 5/16-inch rubber hose. Tighten a hose clamp around the hose and the bolt with a flathead screwdriver.

8

Cut the hose clamp from one end of the crossover hose with side blade pliers. Very quickly replace the crossover hose on the fuel tank fitting with the open end of the 1-foot hose while directing the flow of gasoline from the free end of the crossover hose into an adequately sized gas can.

9

Clean up spilled gasoline with rags. Carry the rags outside if you are working in a garage.

10

Disconnect the crossover hose and the continuous venting vent line. Remove the front tank mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with an open-end wrench.

11

Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and nut with an open-end wrench. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector under the left side of the fuel tank with your hands.

12

Lift the tank straight up to remove. Set the tank on a well-padded surface in a well-ventilated place.

Install Lights

13

Install the left-hand and right-hand side specific mounting clamps that came with the driving light kit on the right and left fork tubes using the four buttonhead screws that came with the driving light kit. Tighten the screws to between 70 and 80 inch-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

14

Route each lamp wire through the hole in each mounting bracket and secure the lamp to each bracket using a clamp block, lock washer and retainer from the kit. Tighten the retainer to 18 foot-pounds of torque with an open-end socket and a torque wrench.

15

Position the inner nesting rings from the kit on each lightbulb. Connect the black wires to the bulb spade terminals next to the bulbs indexing tabs. Install the gray wires on the remaining spade terminals.

16

Attach the bulbs and the inner nesting rings to the outer trim rings with the Phillips screws included in the kit. Slide the conduit tubes from the kit over both lamp wires.

17

Set the light kit wiring harness relay in the seat pan. Route the long leg of the harness along the frame spine under the seat.

18

Plug the white wire connector into the "B+" connector on the lighting kit wiring harness. Loosen and remove the nut on the ground wire stud in the seat pan with a socket wrench and socket.

19

Slip the black, ground wire ring over the ground wire stud. Replace the ground wire stud nut. Secure the driving light kit wire harness to the adjacent wiring harnesses with the cable straps included in the driving light kit.

20

Route the driving light wiring harness past the steering head. Route the lamp switch leg of the harness along the left side of the handlebar to the clutch control.

21

Unscrew the boot from the small lamp switch in the kit. Install the switch into the switch mounting bracket in the kit and replace the boot on the switch.

22

Remove the lower screw and washer from the clutch control clamp with a Torx driver. Position the tab of the driving light switch bracket over the screw hole and replace the Torx screw and washer. Tighten the screw to 70 inch-pounds of torque with a Torx socket and torque wrench.

23

Loosen the headlight trim ring clamp with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the headlight trim ring.

24

Pull the connector block from the headlight bulb prongs. Remove the rubber boot from the back of the headlight lens.

25

Squeeze the wire retaining clip ends to unhook them from the notches in the headlight assembly. Pivot the wire retaining clip away from the headlight bulb and remove the bulb from the headlight assembly.

26

Route the unconnected wire from the handlebar switch through the grommet into the headlight housing. Splice that wire to the yellow (low-beam) headlight wire using the electrical connector included in the driving light kit.

27

Reinstall the headlight bulb.

28

Slide the heat-shrink tubing included in the kit over the white wire in the driving light wiring harness. Strip the ends of both lamp wires with a wire stripper.

29

Splice the white wire to the lamp wires with the three wire connector included in the kit with a wire crimping tool. Cover the splice with the heat shrink tubing and shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

30

Clip the driving light wires to the lower fork steering bracket using the adhesive-backed clips from the kit.

31

Reinstall the fuel tank. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

32

Reinstall the fuel pump fuse. Replace the electrical caddy cover. Replace the seat.

Harley-Davidson calls them enrichers. Everybody else calls them chokes. When you pull out the knob under the left side of your gas tank you increase, or fatten, the percentage of gasoline in your carburetors gas-fuel mix. Pushing the knob in leans the fuel mixture. The knob is attached to a cable that attaches to an enricher valve inside the body of your carburetor. Maintaining and lubricating this cable is a standard procedure you should perform on your Sportster every 2,500 miles or every two months.

Instructions

1

Put the motorcycle in first gear. Turn off the engine, lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand and let the engine go cold.

2

Fully extend the enricher knob. Unhook the enricher cable from the clip under the gas tank near the horn. Wipe the exposed cable, knob and clip with a rag.

3

Spray cable lubricant on the enricher cable and inside the enricher cable guide tube under the gas tank. Wipe up drips with the rag.

4

Refasten the enricher cable to the clip near the horn. Pull and push the enricher knob in and out to distribute the lubricant along the full length of the enricher cable.

The Ford Ranger pickup truck comes with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. It may have a 6-cylinder 3.0L or a 6-cylinder 4.0L engine, and all versions of the Ford Ranger use electronic fuel injection. The fuel pump on this vehicle uses high pressure, and is located on the fuel tank. This makes it necessary to remove the fuel tank before replacing the fuel pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system, and disconnect the fuel tank. Clean the area around the attaching flange for the fuel pump with a shop rag. This will prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank when you replace the fuel pump.

2

Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counter-clockwise with a locking ring removal tool. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank, including the bracket. Remove the gasket for the fuel pump.

3

Apply a thin layer of heavy grease to the new fuel pump gasket, and install it into the ring groove on the fuel tank. Place the new fuel pump assembly into position in the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump, and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

4

Connect the fuel tank onto the vehicle, and put at least ten gallons of gas into the fuel tank. Fix any fuel leaks, and connect a pressure gauge to the throttle body valve. Turn the ignition on for three seconds without starting the engine, and turn it off for three seconds. Repeat this at least five times to pressurize the fuel system to at least 30 pounds per square inch, or PSI.

5

Check the vehicle and fix any leaks. Disconnect the pressure gauge, and start the engine. Check the vehicle again, and fix any leaks.

Wheel bearing failure is a common cause of driving troubles that may lead to damage of the cars drivetrain, or at the very least cause some obnoxious noises. The Dodge Avenger features maintenance-free wheel bearings. As a result, when the bearings no longer operate properly they must be replaced with the entire wheel hub assembly. This procedure requires removal of the steering knuckle, so it may be beneficial to consider replacing other elements of the steering and drivetrain during this repair to avoid future frustration.

Instructions

1

Loosen the wheel hub bolt and remove the wheel cotter pin. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel.

2

Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. This will require removing the brake calipers from the rotor and disengaging the tie rod ends and the lower ball joint. Doing this will require the use of a tie rod presser and a ball joint separator tool.

3

Remove the bolts holding the wheel hub to the steering knuckle once the knuckle has been removed from the vehicle. It is recommended to do this on a bench or other solid surface. Remove the hub from the steering knuckle by gently tapping it with a soft mallet.

4

Clean the mating surface between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub. Install the new hub assembly and tighten the bolts to 65 foot-pounds of torque.

5

Reinstall the steering knuckle and the brake calipers. Install the tire and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel hub nut and install a new cotter pin. Drive the vehicle to check for proper alignment.

The starter on the 2002 Toyota Camry is a cylindrical piece located on the lower part of the engine on the drivers side of the vehicle. Its positioned between the transmission and transmission cross member and is bolted to the bell housing. The starter is responsible for the initial cranking power needed to turn the engines pistons.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable connector from the battery with a crescent wrench. This cuts off power to the Camrys starter.

2

Remove the wiring harness from the starter solenoid by pulling the wire connector off the male connector on the solenoid.

3

Disconnect the black grounding wire from the side of the starter by removing the bolt with a crescent wrench.

4

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing with a 9/16 socket.

5

Pull the old starter out of the bell housing and then place the new starter into the bell housing.

6

Bolt the starter in place.

7

Reconnect the ground wire to the side of the Camrys starter.

8

Reconnect the starter solenoid wiring harness.

9

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Rod bearings or connecting rods connect the pistons to the crankshaft and must be strong to withstand the internal forces from pistons directional changes as well as transmit the piston thrust to the crankshaft. Rod bearings are mainly made of aluminum for smaller engines and forged steel. The upper end of the rod bearing is connected by a piston pin to the piston and the lower end of the rod is split so that it is clamped around the crankshaft in a certain style.

I-Beam

I-beam are the most common styles of rod bearing connection and are used for performance builds and stock applications. These rods are characterized by a large flat area perpendicular to the side beams. The rod side beams are parallel to holes found in the crank journal and piston pins, providing an excellent combination of compressive and tensile strength as well as light weight. I-beam rods handle high rpm tension although they might bend or fail when exposed to high compressive forces. I-beams can be made wider or thicker so that they can handle large horsepower loads.

Oval Beams

Oval beams are also erred to as parabolic or radial beams and are a variation of the basic I-beam. They are created by leaving a rounded region next to the two beams, thus increasing the rigidity and strength. This scalloped effect created by the rounded area is aimed at improving the performance of rod bearings and minimizing bending or failure of rod bearings.

H-Beams

H-beam rods are made of two big flat-sided beams lying at a 90 degree angle to the crankshaft journal bores and the piston pin. Lateral stiffness is provided by the center region linking the two sides of the H jointly. In comparison with the I-beam, this design weighs less and has superior compressive power. H-beam style is recommended for applications with high torques generating huge amounts of power below 6,000 rpm.

Implications

Rod bearings are specifically engineered to meet particular requirements that take into consideration the amount of load produced by the engine. For example, passenger cars are not frequently full-loaded and might require different rod bearings from applications with heavier loads, such as marine or heavy duty trucks. Also take into consideration that putting more load on the bearing makes it difficult to maintain the oil film connecting the bearing and shaft, reducing the longevity of the rod bearings.

The 2003 Volkswagen Passat, including the GL, GLS, GLX and W8 4motion, features several standard and optional convenience options. All models include a liquid crystal display clock on the instrument cluster below the tachometer. Changing the time is an easy task that does not require any special tools or automotive knowledge.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN or ACC position.

2

Examine the instrument panel and locate the digital clock display.

3

Take note of the correct time, using a watch or cell phone.

4

Turn and hold the small plastic knob below the tachometer, using a counterclockwise motion to incrementally increase the hours. Release the knob when the correct hour is displayed.

5

Turn and hold the knob clockwise to adjust the minutes. Release the button when finished.

6

Turn the ignition to the OFF position to complete the process.

The 1993 Camry is a sedan manufactured by Toyota. If your Camry is stalling and wont start up, there is probably a problem with your cooling system or the engine coolant temperature sensor. These two problems are not difficult to repair, but could require the help of a service technician. Adding coolant to your system may be the quick fix that you need; however, a broken ECT will need professional service.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to your 93 Camry from the hood latch on the side of the cars grill. Locate the cooling system, which is on the left side of the engine.

2

Look at the fill line on the cooling systems tank. Fill the cooling tank with 50/50 coolant; make sure you reach the fill line on the side of the tank. You should always use 50/50 coolant when possible, but you can temporarily use water if you run out.

3

Try to start the car. If the car will not start, use a voltmeter to test the ECT. The ECT is on the left side, at the back of the engine. It is a small, green box with two wires coming off it.

4

Connect the testing leads to the (+) and (-) terminals and then try to start the car. Watch the reading on the voltmeter. If the reading starts to go up and down erratically, you need to have a service technician replace the ECT.

The 2003 Buick Lesabre has a history of engine gasket failures. The intake manifold and oil pan gaskets are common replacement requirements that can cost you in excess of $700 to have repaired. Replacing the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (PCV) can keep crankcase gases from building up in the engine and extend the life of the gaskets. The PCV valve is often overlooked as a maintenance item on this engine due to its location.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Remove the oil filler cap. Remove the oil filler neck by twisting it counterclockwise until it releases. Remove the engine cover by lifting the front of it and pulling it towards you to release the rear mounting tap.

2

Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold towards the front of the engine. This sensor will have three wires- orange/black, light green, and grey. Lift the connector locking tab and remove the connector. Remove the MAP sensor by releasing the locking tabs with the screwdriver.

3

Remove the PCV valve cover under the MAP sensor by pressing a 5/8 -inch socket against it and twisting it counterclockwise a quarter turn. Remove the PCV valve and the O-ring. Wipe oil and debris from the mounting area.

4

Install the new PCV valve and O-ring by pressing it firmly into place. Install the PCV cover plate by pushing down on it with the socket and twisting it clockwise until it stops. Replace the seal on the MAP sensor if it is damaged. Install the map sensor slowly, taking care not to damage the mounting tabs. Snap the wiring connector into place.

5

Install the engine cover, making sure that the rear tab is inserted into the mounting bracket. Replace the seal on the oil filler neck if damaged. Install the oil filler neck. Install the oil filler cap.

The Volkswagen (VW) belt tensioner pulley tightens the serpentine belt that turns the engine accessories, such as the air-conditioning compressor and water pump. The newer model VWs have an automatic tensioner pulley that tightens the serpentine belt as it stretches, but the older model VWs have a tensioner pulley that needs to be adjusted. The tensioner pulley shows symptoms when it is going out or requiring replacement.

Serpentine Belt Squealing

The VW belt tensioner pulley can become too tight or too weak, allowing the serpentine belt to wear prematurely or slip under normal operating conditions. The belt begins to squeal when the tensioner pulley is not tight enough, causing the engine to overheat because the water pump is not operating efficiently. This symptom can be caused by the tensioner pulley spring, which weakens over time and does not place enough tension on the belt. The serpentine belt can also begin to run too hot and prematurely fail. The tensioner pulley needs to be replaced when these symptoms occur.

Engine Overheats

The engine in the VW can overheat when there is a problem with the belt tensioner pulley. This symptom is caused by corrosion building up on the tensioner pulley that does not allow the pulley to adjust the serpentine belt. When corrosion builds up, the pulley becomes jammed or does not rotate, causing the serpentine belt to stretch and loosen on the engine accessories. The corrosion does not allowing the pulley to adjust to the stretched belt, creating the water pump problem. This corrosion is generally caused by road debris and dampness splashing onto the tensioner pulley. Proper lubrication of the tensioner pulley periodically can prevent this corrosion build-up.

Dead Battery

Another symptom of a VW belt tensioner pulley going bad is the battery not charging properly. A failing tensioner pulley does not provide enough tension on the serpentine belt, preventing the alternator from recharging the battery. The loose serpentine belt does not allow the alternator to turn fast enough to charge the battery, and the battery can quit working or fail to provide enough charge to the ignition and electrical system to start the engine. The tensioner pulley needs to be replaced or inspected when the serpentine belt is replaced to ensure that the tensioner pulley keeps operating efficiently.

The reverse light in your Nissan Frontier is in the lower position inside the rear combination light assembly. When the reverse light burns out, you should replace the bulb quickly for your own safety on the road. Buy a 921 bulb from an auto parts retailer or Nissan dealership and change the bulb at home to be back on the road in minutes.

Instructions

1

Lower the tailgate of your Frontier. Locate the two mounting screws on the inside edge of the taillight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

2

Slide the taillight assembly out and away from the bed of the truck. Grasp the lower bulb and pull it straight out of the assembly.

3

Push the new bulb into place. Align the taillight assembly in the mounting area. Insert the two mounting screws and tighten them with the screwdriver.

4

Repeat the process to change the bulb on the other side. Close the tailgate.

Automotive automatic transmissions use a torque converter to transmit torque between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. The torque converter links the crankshaft and transmission to provide fluid coupling and torque multiplication.

What are the Torque Converter Components?

The converters essential components are the impeller, the turbine, the stator and the lock-up clutch. The converter is filled with automatic transmission fluid, which is key to transmitting energy between the engine and transmission while smoothing excessive vibration.

How does a Torque Converter Operate?

The impeller is driven by the engines crankshaft. As it spins, vanes charge the fluid, which in turn drives the turbine. The turbine is mounted on and powers the transmission input shaft. The stator is mounted between the two, altering the flow of the transmission fluid back to the impeller as it comes off of the turbine. This provides a torque multiplication feature, maximizing the amount of power sent to the transmission.

What Does the Lock-Up Clutch do?

The torque converters secondary function is as a lock-up clutch. When the vehicle is cruising at a constant speed, the turbine and the impeller turn at nearly the same speed. The torque multiplication function is no longer applicable, so the lock-up clutch engages to lock the impeller to the turbine. The torque converter then serves as a direct linkage between the engine and the drivetrain.

The Suzuki Samurai, with its 1.3-liter engine, has a muffler with an integrated front and rear exhaust pipe section. The front runs from the head pipe or exhaust manifold to the muffler body and the rear from the body to the tailpipe just above the rear axle housing. Replacing the muffler requires you to remove several bolts at the front of the system and one exhaust clamp. The job can be completed in the driveway at home in about an hour with common hand tools.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Suzuki off the ground with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing to support the vehicle. Make sure the jack stands are on a flat, solid surface, then remove the jack from under the truck.

2

Locate the flange at the front of the muffler assembly from under the truck. Remove the two mounting bolts from the flange using a wrench on one side and a socket and ratchet on the other.

3

Move to the rear of the assembly and locate the connection between the tailpipe and the muffler assembly. Remove the nuts from the exhaust clamp on the pipe with a socket and ratchet. Remove the clamp from the exhaust pipe and discard it.

4

Separate the muffler assembly from the tailpipe, then remove the muffler from the rubber hangers under the truck. Lower the muffler to the ground and remove it from under the truck.

5

Raise a new muffler assembly into place and connect the two rubber hangers to the support pins on the muffler assembly. Raise the rear of the muffler assembly and slide the tailpipe and the rear connection of the muffler together. Install a new exhaust clamp on the connection and tighten the nuts with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the nuts or you will crush the pipe.

6

Position the flange at the front of the muffler assembly against the flange on the front exhaust pipe and install the two retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other.

7

Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands with a jack, remove the jack stands from under the truck, then lower it to the ground.

Lots of people redesign their cars exterior, but remodeling the interior can make a car truly distinct. If you want your car to really express your personality, consider changing up the interior. Decide on a budget first, since customizing a car can become a never-ending process that costs a lot of money unless you set boundaries. Doing it yourself can greatly reduce the cost.

Your Cars Theme

Without a theme, you could end up with a bunch of random accessories and styles instead of a stylish, consistent look. Looking at your car from the outside, ask yourself how you would describe it--bold and trendy, sporty and adventurous, or cute and playful. If youre customizing the exterior too, imagine the look you want to create and think of how youd describe it. Jot down any words that come to mind, and any colors, textures, and accessories that fit that theme.

Use Ergonomic Design

If replacing seats, choose ones that are designed to give you proper support and let you change positions as needed, as Dennis W. Parks says in his book "How to Restore and Customize Auto Upholstery and Interiors." If restoring a vintage car that wont be driven much, using the original seats that came with the vehicle is fine. However, if you expect to drive the vehicle frequently, choose a more ergonomic design, meaning a design that helps the body to stay properly aligned for maximum comfort and health. Such designs often incorporate lumbar supports and numerous other features.

Consider Reshaping Hardware

Some car designers reshape consoles, dashboards and other interior components. As Parks illustrations in his book show, some console have a trendy concave top and back, sloping elegantly to the floor. Designers often use nontraditional colors, too, or select a new material like chrome or wood. Some serious enthusiasts design new storage spaces or weld on new accessories too, but visibility and accessibility should always remain priority.

Use Patterns Sparingly

Parks suggests to stick to no more than three or four patterns and colors. For instance, you might have black vinyl seating, a geometric fabric on the walls and a dashboard that matches the exterior. Too much becomes overwhelming. If using a bold print on the walls, dont add a contrasting pattern on the floor.

Choose Complementary Textures

Similarly, stick to textures that complement rather than clash with each other, as Parks says--vinyl and crushed velour dont mix. Match natural materials or those with a more industrial feel, pairing chrome with vinyl, not wood. Taking an upholstery class can give you all the skills you need to do that part of the job yourself, says Jim Richardson in "Classic Car Restorers Handbook." Compare swatches of your fabrics at midday so the angle of sunlight wont distort your perception of the colors, he suggests.

Lighting and Sound

Some people add LED light strips or patches to their car interiors for a neon glow. Others use dome or underbody light, or lights that can change color. Always make sure these extras wont affect your driving or the safety of others on the road, and that they comply with laws. Many people add a new CD player or a more powerful stereo to make driving more enjoyable, too.

The exhaust manifold, also known as a header, on the Chevy Lumina collects the exhaust gases from the engine cylinders and diverts them through the exhaust pipe. If the manifold develops cracks, you will need to change it or the efficiency of the engine will drop. This is a project that you can do yourself, so there is no need to take the Lumina to an automotive repair shop. You can expect it to take you about three hours to complete the project.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut. Disconnect the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor. Turn the belt tensioner using a wrench and relieve the tension from the serpentine belt. Note the proper routing of the belt if the diagram is missing.

2

Remove the serpentine belt from the Lumina engine. Remove the bolts from the alternator using a socket and ratchet and take it off the engine. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Lumina. Lift the front of the car with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the Lumina near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

3

Remove the bolts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina and lower the car to the ground. Remove the oil fill tube from the engine block using a wrench. Pull the tube away from the engine. Remove the nuts from the exhaust manifold using a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine.

4

Remove the manifold gasket and discard it. Install a new gasket and exhaust manifold. Secure the nuts using a socket and ratchet. Install the oil fill tube and tighten the nut with a wrench. Raise the Lumina with the automobile jack. Place the jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

5

Crawl under the Lumina and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten the bolts with a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Lumina. Lower the car to the ground. Install the alternator and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Install the serpentine belt according to the diagram you made, or the one under the engine hood if present.

6

Place tension on the serpentine belt by turning the belt tensioner with a wrench. Connect the electrical connection to the oxygen sensor. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

The Dodge Ram pickup truck was introduced in 1981 and quickly became the most successful pickup truck in the Dodge lineup. Dodge manufactures the Ram on either a van platform or a truck platform. Both versions utilize the same side view mirrors, so the replacement process is the same.

Instructions

1

Press the left side of the passenger mirror into the mirror shell of the Dodge Ram. By pushing the left side of the mirror into the shell, the right side of the mirror is forced out of the shell. This allows you to grasp the mirror with your hand.

2

Place your fingers on the backside of the Rams mirror and press your thumb against the front side of the mirror. Pull out on the mirror to separate the mounting brackets from the ball-joint located inside the mirror shell.

3

Place the new mirror into the shell and press on the center of the mirror with your fist to push the mounting brackets around the ball-joint.

4

Adjust your new mirror to meet your driving needs.

An engines induction system can be designed to improve the location of peak torque within its RPM range by altering the intake manifolds plenum volume, runner length and runner diameter. Long and narrow intake runners will result in lower RPM ratings, while short and wide runners will result in higher RPM ratings. Determining the RPM rating at which you want peak torque to occur is up to you, but once you do decide, calculating the intake runner size is straightforward.

Instructions

Calculating Intake Runner Diameter

1

Decide the RPM rating at which you want peak torque to occur. For example, youd like your cars engine to reach 5,000 RPM at peak torque.

2

Multiply the RPM rating from Step 1 by the engines displacement volume and volumetric efficiency. For example, the cars engine has a displacement of 1.5 liters and a volumetric efficiency of 95 percent. Multiplying 5,000 by 1.5 by 0.95 equals 7,125.

3

Divide the result from Step 2 by 3,330. In the example, 7,125 divided by 3,330 equals 2.140.

4

Calculate the square root of the result from Step 3 to determine the intake runners diameter. In the example, the square root of 2.140 is 1.463. The intake runners diameter should be 1.463 inches.

Calculating Intake Runner Length

5

Subtract the result from Step 1, Section 1 from 10,000. In the example, subtracting 5,000 from 10,000 equals 5,000.

6

Divide the result from Step 1 by 1,000. In the example, dividing 5,000 by 1,000 equals 5.

7

Multiply the result from Step 2 by 4.3. In the example, multiplying 5 by 4.3 equals 21.5.

8

Add 17.8 to the result from Step 3 to calculate the intake runner length in centimeters. In the example, adding 17.8 to 21.5 equals 39.3 cm.

9

Multiply the result from Step 4 by 0.3937 to convert the intake runner length to inches. In the example, multiplying 39.3 by 0.3937 equals 15.472. The intake runner should be 15.472 inches long.

The 2000 model year Dodge Neon uses a hydraulic pump to create pressure that assists the driver in steering the vehicle. The hydraulically assisted steering, commonly known as power steering, is especially helpful at lower speeds when the driver must use more effort to steer. Maintenance and removal of power steering components may require removing the hydraulic hoses that flow to and from the power steering pump.

Instructions

Removal

1

Locate the power steering gear near the front left wheel and determine if you can access the hose attachments well enough to remove them.

2

Remove the negative battery cable to ensure all steering components will be disabled.

3




Jack the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Do this step only if you cannot access the hose connections at the power steering gear from the engine compartment or without raising the car.

4

Siphon as much fluid from the power steering pump reservoir as possible to reduce spillage.

5

Remove all hose clamps from the hose you will replace.

6

Loosen the hose nut at the power steering pump if you are removing the pressure hose. The return hose is only secured with a clamp.

7

Position a small bucket or other container underneath the hose as you remove it. Drain as much fluid into the container as possible to minimize hazardous fluid spills from reaching the ground. If you were able to siphon the reservoir, this step may not be necessary.

8

Disconnect the lower end of the hose. Try to contain spillage in a container.

Installation

9

Install the lower end of the new hose. Tighten the hose nut if it is a pressure or the hose clamp for the return hose. Tighten the hose nut to 25 foot-pounds of torque.

10

Route the hose upward along the same path it ran before it was removed. Install the upper part of the hose and tighten the clamp or hose nut. Tighten the hose nut to 25 foot-pounds of torque.

11

Reinstall the front wheels and lower the car if it was raised for access.

12

Reinstall all the hose clamps that were removed.

13

Refill the power steering reservoir with new fluid.

14

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The qualities that make aluminum lightweight create problems when you are creating a threaded hole in the material. Drill bit and taps used on aluminum will clog as they remove material from the area. Each tool will fail to cut the aluminum once clogged. Keeping the tools free of aluminum ensures a threaded hole able to hold a fastener.

Instructions

1

Reference a tap chart to determine the drill bit size required for the threaded hole.

2

Secure the drill bit in a drill motor. Cover the end of the drill bit and the surface of the aluminum with cutting fluid.

3

Place the point of the coated drill bit on the aluminum. Pump the trigger of the drill motor to drill into the metal. Apply additional cutting fluid to the aluminum as you drill.

4

Secure a tap in the handle of a tee-handle tap wrench. Apply cutting fluid to the threads of the tap. Pour cutting fluid into the drilled hole.

5

Turn the tap handle clockwise to thread the tap into the hole. Reverse the direction of the tap when you have difficulty turning the tap into the aluminum.

6

Remove the tap from the threaded aluminum hole. Run a wire brush around the threads of the tap.

7

Thread the clean tap back through the threaded hole.