Repair And Fix it

Removing either the front or rear bumper on the Jeep Cherokee requires basic hand tools and a few minutes time. Even a novice home mechanic can complete the process in the driveway at home or in the garage. The bumpers are not heavy so you can do the job by yourself but a second set of hands is helpful to support the bumper as the last bolts come out. The mounts never changed over the entire production run of the Cherokee, so no matter what year Cherokee you own, the bumpers come off the same way.

Instructions

Front Bumper

1

Slide under the front of your Jeep and locate the mounts where the bumper and frame rails meet. There are two side plates, one on the each side of the frame, with three bolts securing them to the frame.

2

Loosen the three bolts on both sides of the Jeep with a socket and ratchet. Remove two on each side but leave one in place so the bumper does not fall.

3

Remove the last two bolts, while supporting the bumper. Pull the bumper straight off the front off the Jeep. On older models, there may be a vacuum line attached to a ball on the inside of the bumper. Pull the line off when you remove the bumper.

Rear Bumper

4

Open the lift gate on the rear of your Jeep Cherokee then slide under the rear bumper of the Jeep. Locate the bumper mounts on the body of the Jeep; there are four bolts on each mounts that thread into the body.

5

Remove three of the four bolts from each mount using a socket and ratchet. Leave one bolt on each mount to keep the bumper from falling on you.

6

Remove the final bolt on one side with a socket and ratchet while supporting the bumper. Slide to the opposite mount and remove the final bolt there as well.

7

Pull the bumper straight off the rear of the Jeep. Set the bumper aside and close the rear lift gate.

Harley-Davidson driving lights mount on the front forks of Softails. The driving lights may add slightly to your view of the road at night. They add significantly to the recognition by oncoming drivers that you are there. The pattern formed by a headlight and two driving lights is conspicuous, and driving lightbulbs are often yellow, so even drunks are inclined to slow down when they see you coming. The popular Heritage Softail Classic, styled to look like a mid-60s hog, comes equipped with three lights as standard equipment. If that is the effect you are trying to achieve, numerous aftermarket vendors, including Harley and Kuryakyn, sell driving light kits. These instructions are specific to recent, fuel-injected Softails.

Instructions

Remove Fuel Tank

1

Remove the electrical caddy cover by pulling on it with both hands. Pry the fuel pump fuse out of the electrical caddy with a small, flathead screwdriver.

2

Start the engine in neutral and run the engine until it dies. Run the starter for four more seconds.

3

Disconnect the fuel supply line by pulling up on the chrome sleeve of the fuel tank quick-connect fitting and pulling down on the fuel supply line.

4

Unscrew the bolt that secures the seat tab to the rear fender. Recent Softails use a Phillips screw, which must be removed with a screwdriver. Older Softails use an Allen bolt, which comes off with an Allen wrench.

5

Remove the seat to access the battery compartment. Disconnect the negative battery wire from the negative terminal with an open-end wrench.

6

Remove the instrument panel by loosening and removing the acorn nut on the panel with an Allen wrench and pulling up. Unplug the fuel pump module connector under the instrument panel.

7

Push a 5/16-inch-diameter bolt in one end of a foot long piece of 5/16-inch rubber hose. Tighten a hose clamp around the hose and the bolt with a flathead screwdriver.

8

Cut the hose clamp from one end of the crossover hose with side blade pliers. Very quickly replace the crossover hose on the fuel tank fitting with the open end of the 1-foot hose while directing the flow of gasoline from the free end of the crossover hose into an adequately sized gas can.

9

Clean up spilled gasoline with rags. Carry the rags outside if you are working in a garage.

10

Disconnect the crossover hose and the continuous venting vent line. Remove the front tank mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with an open-end wrench.

11

Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and nut with an open-end wrench. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector under the left side of the fuel tank with your hands.

12

Lift the tank straight up to remove. Set the tank on a well-padded surface in a well-ventilated place.

Install Lights

13

Install the left-hand and right-hand side specific mounting clamps that came with the driving light kit on the right and left fork tubes using the four buttonhead screws that came with the driving light kit. Tighten the screws to between 70 and 80 inch-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

14

Route each lamp wire through the hole in each mounting bracket and secure the lamp to each bracket using a clamp block, lock washer and retainer from the kit. Tighten the retainer to 18 foot-pounds of torque with an open-end socket and a torque wrench.

15

Position the inner nesting rings from the kit on each lightbulb. Connect the black wires to the bulb spade terminals next to the bulbs indexing tabs. Install the gray wires on the remaining spade terminals.

16

Attach the bulbs and the inner nesting rings to the outer trim rings with the Phillips screws included in the kit. Slide the conduit tubes from the kit over both lamp wires.

17

Set the light kit wiring harness relay in the seat pan. Route the long leg of the harness along the frame spine under the seat.

18

Plug the white wire connector into the "B+" connector on the lighting kit wiring harness. Loosen and remove the nut on the ground wire stud in the seat pan with a socket wrench and socket.

19

Slip the black, ground wire ring over the ground wire stud. Replace the ground wire stud nut. Secure the driving light kit wire harness to the adjacent wiring harnesses with the cable straps included in the driving light kit.

20

Route the driving light wiring harness past the steering head. Route the lamp switch leg of the harness along the left side of the handlebar to the clutch control.

21

Unscrew the boot from the small lamp switch in the kit. Install the switch into the switch mounting bracket in the kit and replace the boot on the switch.

22

Remove the lower screw and washer from the clutch control clamp with a Torx driver. Position the tab of the driving light switch bracket over the screw hole and replace the Torx screw and washer. Tighten the screw to 70 inch-pounds of torque with a Torx socket and torque wrench.

23

Loosen the headlight trim ring clamp with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the headlight trim ring.

24

Pull the connector block from the headlight bulb prongs. Remove the rubber boot from the back of the headlight lens.

25

Squeeze the wire retaining clip ends to unhook them from the notches in the headlight assembly. Pivot the wire retaining clip away from the headlight bulb and remove the bulb from the headlight assembly.

26

Route the unconnected wire from the handlebar switch through the grommet into the headlight housing. Splice that wire to the yellow (low-beam) headlight wire using the electrical connector included in the driving light kit.

27

Reinstall the headlight bulb.

28

Slide the heat-shrink tubing included in the kit over the white wire in the driving light wiring harness. Strip the ends of both lamp wires with a wire stripper.

29

Splice the white wire to the lamp wires with the three wire connector included in the kit with a wire crimping tool. Cover the splice with the heat shrink tubing and shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

30

Clip the driving light wires to the lower fork steering bracket using the adhesive-backed clips from the kit.

31

Reinstall the fuel tank. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

32

Reinstall the fuel pump fuse. Replace the electrical caddy cover. Replace the seat.

Harley-Davidson calls them enrichers. Everybody else calls them chokes. When you pull out the knob under the left side of your gas tank you increase, or fatten, the percentage of gasoline in your carburetors gas-fuel mix. Pushing the knob in leans the fuel mixture. The knob is attached to a cable that attaches to an enricher valve inside the body of your carburetor. Maintaining and lubricating this cable is a standard procedure you should perform on your Sportster every 2,500 miles or every two months.

Instructions

1

Put the motorcycle in first gear. Turn off the engine, lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand and let the engine go cold.

2

Fully extend the enricher knob. Unhook the enricher cable from the clip under the gas tank near the horn. Wipe the exposed cable, knob and clip with a rag.

3

Spray cable lubricant on the enricher cable and inside the enricher cable guide tube under the gas tank. Wipe up drips with the rag.

4

Refasten the enricher cable to the clip near the horn. Pull and push the enricher knob in and out to distribute the lubricant along the full length of the enricher cable.

The Ford Ranger pickup truck comes with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. It may have a 6-cylinder 3.0L or a 6-cylinder 4.0L engine, and all versions of the Ford Ranger use electronic fuel injection. The fuel pump on this vehicle uses high pressure, and is located on the fuel tank. This makes it necessary to remove the fuel tank before replacing the fuel pump on a 1996 Ford Ranger.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system, and disconnect the fuel tank. Clean the area around the attaching flange for the fuel pump with a shop rag. This will prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank when you replace the fuel pump.

2

Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump counter-clockwise with a locking ring removal tool. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank, including the bracket. Remove the gasket for the fuel pump.

3

Apply a thin layer of heavy grease to the new fuel pump gasket, and install it into the ring groove on the fuel tank. Place the new fuel pump assembly into position in the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump, and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

4

Connect the fuel tank onto the vehicle, and put at least ten gallons of gas into the fuel tank. Fix any fuel leaks, and connect a pressure gauge to the throttle body valve. Turn the ignition on for three seconds without starting the engine, and turn it off for three seconds. Repeat this at least five times to pressurize the fuel system to at least 30 pounds per square inch, or PSI.

5

Check the vehicle and fix any leaks. Disconnect the pressure gauge, and start the engine. Check the vehicle again, and fix any leaks.

Wheel bearing failure is a common cause of driving troubles that may lead to damage of the cars drivetrain, or at the very least cause some obnoxious noises. The Dodge Avenger features maintenance-free wheel bearings. As a result, when the bearings no longer operate properly they must be replaced with the entire wheel hub assembly. This procedure requires removal of the steering knuckle, so it may be beneficial to consider replacing other elements of the steering and drivetrain during this repair to avoid future frustration.

Instructions

1

Loosen the wheel hub bolt and remove the wheel cotter pin. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel.

2

Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. This will require removing the brake calipers from the rotor and disengaging the tie rod ends and the lower ball joint. Doing this will require the use of a tie rod presser and a ball joint separator tool.

3

Remove the bolts holding the wheel hub to the steering knuckle once the knuckle has been removed from the vehicle. It is recommended to do this on a bench or other solid surface. Remove the hub from the steering knuckle by gently tapping it with a soft mallet.

4

Clean the mating surface between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub. Install the new hub assembly and tighten the bolts to 65 foot-pounds of torque.

5

Reinstall the steering knuckle and the brake calipers. Install the tire and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel hub nut and install a new cotter pin. Drive the vehicle to check for proper alignment.

The starter on the 2002 Toyota Camry is a cylindrical piece located on the lower part of the engine on the drivers side of the vehicle. Its positioned between the transmission and transmission cross member and is bolted to the bell housing. The starter is responsible for the initial cranking power needed to turn the engines pistons.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable connector from the battery with a crescent wrench. This cuts off power to the Camrys starter.

2

Remove the wiring harness from the starter solenoid by pulling the wire connector off the male connector on the solenoid.

3

Disconnect the black grounding wire from the side of the starter by removing the bolt with a crescent wrench.

4

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing with a 9/16 socket.

5

Pull the old starter out of the bell housing and then place the new starter into the bell housing.

6

Bolt the starter in place.

7

Reconnect the ground wire to the side of the Camrys starter.

8

Reconnect the starter solenoid wiring harness.

9

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Rod bearings or connecting rods connect the pistons to the crankshaft and must be strong to withstand the internal forces from pistons directional changes as well as transmit the piston thrust to the crankshaft. Rod bearings are mainly made of aluminum for smaller engines and forged steel. The upper end of the rod bearing is connected by a piston pin to the piston and the lower end of the rod is split so that it is clamped around the crankshaft in a certain style.

I-Beam

I-beam are the most common styles of rod bearing connection and are used for performance builds and stock applications. These rods are characterized by a large flat area perpendicular to the side beams. The rod side beams are parallel to holes found in the crank journal and piston pins, providing an excellent combination of compressive and tensile strength as well as light weight. I-beam rods handle high rpm tension although they might bend or fail when exposed to high compressive forces. I-beams can be made wider or thicker so that they can handle large horsepower loads.

Oval Beams

Oval beams are also erred to as parabolic or radial beams and are a variation of the basic I-beam. They are created by leaving a rounded region next to the two beams, thus increasing the rigidity and strength. This scalloped effect created by the rounded area is aimed at improving the performance of rod bearings and minimizing bending or failure of rod bearings.

H-Beams

H-beam rods are made of two big flat-sided beams lying at a 90 degree angle to the crankshaft journal bores and the piston pin. Lateral stiffness is provided by the center region linking the two sides of the H jointly. In comparison with the I-beam, this design weighs less and has superior compressive power. H-beam style is recommended for applications with high torques generating huge amounts of power below 6,000 rpm.

Implications

Rod bearings are specifically engineered to meet particular requirements that take into consideration the amount of load produced by the engine. For example, passenger cars are not frequently full-loaded and might require different rod bearings from applications with heavier loads, such as marine or heavy duty trucks. Also take into consideration that putting more load on the bearing makes it difficult to maintain the oil film connecting the bearing and shaft, reducing the longevity of the rod bearings.