Repair And Fix it

An automatic choke can be located on the carburetor of an engine, or it can be located a short distance from the carburetor and is called a "divorced" or "remote choke." The choke is important in the operation of a gasoline engine because it restricts the flow of air passing into an engine when the engine is cold; it could struggle to start with less gasoline flowing into the engine.

Automatic Choke

The automatic choke is an important part of a gasoline engine, working in tandem with the carburetor to restrict and increase the flow of air flowing into the engine. The automatic choke can be briefly described as a valve that closes to restrict the flow of air when the engine is cold. As the engine heats up, the automatic choke slowly opens the valve to allow more air to flow into the engine and reduce the amount of gasoline passing into the engine. The choke system of an engine, such as that for an automobile, is recognized as part of the transmission system.

Coil

In general, automatic chokes use a bimetallic coil to operate the choke plate valve system for increasing and reducing the amount of air passing into an engine. The bimetallic coil rotates when it is cold to close the choke plate and stop the passage of air that can mix with gasoline; this is to allow a larger amount of gasoline to arrive in the engine as required when the engine is cold. As the engine heats up, a vacuum forms that pulls the bimetallic coil back from the choke releasing the pressure and allowing more air to mix with the gasoline in the engine.

Types

Although the automatic choke system works in much the same way in integral and divorced systems, the remote automatic choke is housed in the engine manifold instead of attached to the carburetor. Remote automatic chokes use a separate choke pull off system, while integral systems use a tiny vacuum system linked to the throttle to operate a piston to open the automatic choke.

Rods

In repairing automatic choke systems the incorrect thickness of carburetor used can result in problems with the rods used to open and close a divorced system either not completely closing or opening the choke system. Where the automatic choke system is not working correctly, such as the vacuum passageway used by integral systems being clogged, the choke system may not allow the engine to start or operate effectively.

Hayden is a company that has produced transmission parts and tools for many years. The company deals with heavy-load transmissions primarily, rather than lighter transmissions such as the ones used in passenger cars. The transmissions this company caters to are more likely to be found in small buses or hauling trucks.

Miscellanous Tools

Hayden produced a line of general tools that were necessary for transmission work in prior years. Many of these tools can still be found second-hand in good condition. Wrenches, hammers and air-powered impact wrenches were among the most produced of this line. These were discontinued approximately eight years ago due to the company downsizing, though these items can sometimes be purchased in small orders for large companies. Many of these tools come pre-packaged in kits used to repair parts of the transmission.

Specific Tools

Hayden makes a various tools for very specific jobs during the repair of a transmission. The HAYT0171 is a foot press that comes with several different attachments to allow it to be used with both older and newer models of transmission. This is a manual tool that requires a good deal of strength to use. The HAYT0158SP is a clutch spring compressor, for replacing the clutch spring in the transmission. When removed, the clutch spring in a manual transmission extends fully which makes it impossible to force back into the transmission. This compressor forces the spring to recoil and allows a mechanic to replace the spring, or install a new one. The HAYT0033 is a universal pump puller. This allows the mechanic an easier way to pull out the transmission fluid pump for the transmission, as well as hold its replacement steady upon installing it. The term "universal" means that it will fit any model of transmission, no matter what make the vehicle being worked on happens to be.

Kits

Dozens of kits are available for everything from rotors to transmission fluid coolers. These kits come with an assortment of tools and parts to fully fix the problem with the transmission. A bare part, which only includes the part, can be purchased separately from the kit, if necessary. Kits that come with all screws, bolts, wrenches, sockets and other necessary pieces, as well as the part, cost nearly the same price from the Hayden manufacturer. The only kit that is no longer being made by Hayden, but is still sold under the Hayden name, is the transmission gasket-replacement kit.

The Mercury Cougar is a model of car manufactured by the Lincoln-Mercury division of Ford Motor Company. The 1991 Mercury Cougar is a full-size coupe that belongs to the seventh generation of these vehicles. It may have a six-cylinder 3.8L engine or an eight-cylinder 5.0L engine. The fuel pump in a 1991 Mercury Cougar attaches to the fuel tank, so replacing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank and remove the cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and place its drain hose in a gasoline container. Open the pressure gauge and drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.

2

Raise the vehicle and support its rear end with jack stands. Siphon as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible and disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust shields from the fuel tank. Place a floor jack under the fuel tank and place a plank of wood on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the nuts for the retaining strap on the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the fuel lines electrical wiring from the fuel tank. Remove the air deflector from the retaining straps of the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank and remove it from the vehicle.

3

Clean the area around the retaining flange for the fuel pump on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump counterclockwise and detach the locking ring. Disconnect the fuel pump and bracket from the fuel tank and discard the seal ring.

4

Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump and the groove for the seal ring on the fuel tank. Apply a thin layer of grease to the new seal ring and place the seal ring into the groove on the fuel tank. Connect the new fuel pump and bracket to the fuel tank without damaging the fuel filter. Align the keys on the fuel pump with the holes on the mounting bracket. Install the locking ring to the fuel pump so that the locking tabs on the locking ring are under the ring tabs on the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring clockwise until it reaches the limit of its travel.

5

Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and lower the vehicle. Put at least 10 gallons of fuel in the fuel tank. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the relief valve and connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on for three seconds at a time until the fuel pressure reaches 35 psi. Remove the pressure gauge and cover the relief valve with the cap. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

There is no time like the present for replacing that ugly, faded and probably cracked dashboard in your Buick Park Avenue. The good news is that doing so is a fairly easy job. In fact, the only difficulty will involve removing the parts that are designed to prevent dashboard removal. You will need only a couple of tools to complete the job, and before you know it the interior of your Buick Park Avenue will be good as new.

Instructions

1

Remove the edges of the trim adjacent to doors and beneath the steering wheel. The trim is what keeps the dash in place and covers all of the wiring. Wedge the flat-head screwdriver under the trim that runs alongside the windshield by the doors and pop the dash loose. Remove these trim pieces and set them aside. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen any remaining mounting bolts securing the steering wheel trim.

2

Loosen the trim along the edges near the doors and under the steering wheel. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry under the edges of the trim running down the side of the windshield near the doors and pop the trim loose. Slide the trim pieces out of the car and set aside. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the five to eight mounting bolts holding the steering wheel trim in place. Pull the trim down and discard it.

3

Grab the temperature control knobs with a pliers and give a sharp tug. Use the pliers to pry off the radio knobs as well. If you cant pry the knobs off, turn them counterclockwise, as occasionally the knobs screw into the dash.

In 1983, Chevrolet introduced a mid-sized SUV to the market, known as the Blazer. The Blazer gave drivers the usefulness of an SUV, without the bulk of a full-sized SUV. In 2002, the Trailblazer replaced all four-door Blazers and finally, in 2006, the Trailblazer replaced the Blazer altogether. The 2007 Trailblazer came standard with a 4.2-liter, in-line six-cylinder engine that produced 291 horsepower and 277 foot-pounds of torque. The 2007 Trailblazers styling was similar to that of its Blazer predecessor, including the vertical taillight assemblies. Replacing the brake light bulbs in these vertical taillight assemblies is a relatively easy task.

Instructions

1

Open the rear hatch and remove the two screws on the inner part of the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

2

Pull the taillight assembly rearward to remove it from the Trailblazers body. Unplug the wiring harness from the rear of the taillight assembly, by pressing the locking button and pulling the harness away from the assembly.

3

Turn the taillight assembly over and remove the three screws holding the socket plate -- the roughly 2-by-5-inch plastic plate on the rear of the taillight assembly. Pull the socket plate from the taillight assembly; notice the bulbs remain attached to the plate.

4

Pull the burnt-out brake bulb from the socket plate with a slight wiggling motion. Grab a new 3157 brake light bulb with a clean, lint-free cloth and press it into the socket. Never touch the glass part of the bulb with your bare hands, as the oils from your hands can cause the bulb to burn out prematurely.

5

Set the socket plate back on the rear of the taillight assembly and tighten the three screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

6

Plug the wiring harness back into the socket plate and set the taillight assembly back on the rear of the Trailblazer. Tighten the two screws on the inner part of the taillight assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

7

Close the Trailblazers hatch.

Vehicle exhaust systems consist of multiple parts. In order to properly ship the entire exhaust system, you will need to ship the components separately to avoid damaging them, being sure to keep your packaging to a reasonable size and weight in order to minimize shipping costs. Packing and shipping a car exhaust can be done relatively quickly. As long as it is packaged properly, the parts should reach your recipient in good condition.

Instructions

1

Prepare the exhaust components for packaging. There is a very small market for used car exhausts, so most exhaust systems will be brand new when they are shipped and you should not have to worry about cleaning the parts before shipping them.

2

Wrap each part in several layers of soft towels to protect them during shipping. Exhaust parts such as the muffler and exhaust manifolds are heavy enough that they may not be fully protected by bubble wrap.

Ship each component of the exhaust system separately to avoid the pieces moving and damaging one another during shipping.

3

Locate boxes to ship the exhaust in. Found Value recommends shipping long exhaust parts in five-foot long wardrobe boxes. If any of the parts are unusually heavy, you can purchase specially made double-walled shipping boxes that are twice as strong as regular cardboard boxes.

4

Fill your cardboard boxes with packing peanuts and place each exhaust system part in an individual box. Once you have placed each part into its box, place your packing slip into one of the boxes and then seal the boxes with packing tape.

5

Ship the exhaust using a shipper that regularly deals with large boxes and heavy items. You may want to check with different shippers for possible discounts or promotions. You also may want to select ground shipping for the exhaust system. Ground shipping is less expensive than air, and exhaust parts often cost more to ship because of their size.

The thermostat on your 1999 Saturn is located on the lower front of the engine on the passengers side, just above the water pump. The thermostat controls the flow of the coolant thats needed to maintain the proper operating temperature of the engine. As the engine temperature rises, the thermostat automatically opens and allows coolant into the engine. A malfunctioning thermostat will fail to open, preventing coolant from entering the engine and causing the engine to overheat. Replacing the thermostat is a fairly simple process that requires only a few tools.

Instructions

Removing the Thermostat

1

Allow the engine to cool. Put on your safety glasses, raise the hood and remove the radiator cap to release the pressure in the hose. Disconnect the negative battery cable for added safety.

2

Remove the carburetor air cleaner and filter unit to provide for better access to the thermostat. Unscrew the cover bolt in the center cap with your hand.

3

Place a clean bucket directly under the drain bolt on the bottom of the radiator.

4

Slide underneath the Saturn on your back and loosen the drain bolt using a socket wrench. Drain just enough coolant to clear out the upper radiator hose and tighten the drain bolt. Check to see if it is clear by squeezing the hose and feeling for any remaining coolant. Repeat this step until the upper radiator hose is empty.

5

Detach the spring-type hose clamp from the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the thermostat housing. Squeeze the clamp using channel-lock pliers and slide it off of the cover. The end that connects to the radiator can remain attached.

6

Remove the two mounting bolts that secure the thermostat housing cover to the engine block, using the socket wrench. Tap the cover using a rubber mallet to break the seal. Remove the thermostat. Scrape off the old gasket using a razor, being caul not to allow any gasket debris to fall into the engine.

Installing the Thermostat

7

Test the new thermostat before installing to confirm that its working properly. Fill a deep bowl with very hot tap water. Grab the thermostat upright using the channel-lock pliers and hold it in the hot water, making sure the entire thermostat is submerged. The lower spring side of the thermostat should open immediately, indicating that it is working correctly.

8

Apply a small amount of gasket adhesive to the new gasket using your finger. Place the gasket directly onto the engine block at the thermostat opening. Be sure that the mounting holes are correctly aligned so that the thermostat will seat correctly.

9

Install the new thermostat with the spring side inserted into the engine, and caully reposition the housing cover. Do not to move or disturb the gasket. Secure the housing cover on the engine block with the two mounting bolts.

10

Reposition the carburetor air cleaner and filter. Reconnect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat cover. Secure the hose in place with the spring clamp. Inspect the hose for bulging and replace it if necessary.

11

Reconnect the negative battery cable and start the engine. Pour the drained coolant back into the radiator and allow the engine to idle for several minutes. Inspect the thermostat and hose connections for leaks.