Repair And Fix it

Mercedes key fobs are known as SmartKeys. Every late-model Mercedes-Benz vehicle is equipped with a SmartKey, which allows you to lock and unlock your doors without touching your car keys. When you are close enough to your Mercedes vehicle with your SmartKey, you can push the button located on the door handle and your doors will lock and/or unlock automatically. If your SmartKey is not working, there are several do-it-yourself repairs available to repair your SmartKey you can try before contacting your Mercedes-Benz dealer for an appointment.

Instructions

1

Replace the battery in your SmartKey. Purchase a new battery at any auto parts store or any authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership. Open the SmartKey fob using a sharp object, such as a butter knife, and trade out the dead battery for the new battery. Test the SmartKey remote.

2

Repair a SmartKey that no longer starts your cars engine by turning off all of the non-essential functions in your car, such as lights, the radio and the heated seats, then try to start the ignition. Jump-start your car if this does not work and contact your Mercedes-Benz service department for a repair appointment.

3

Pull the door handle of your Mercedes and turn your SmartKey to the second position in the ignition. Use this method if you cannot lock or unlock your car with the remote.

4

Contact Mercedes-Benz. The Mercedes-Benz website allows you to enter your zip code to find the dealership nearest your location.

5

Explain that your key fob is not working correctly. Be as specific about the problem as you can. For example: tell the dealership if your key fob only works when you are unlocking your doors and not for anything else. The more specific you are, the better Mercedes can diagnose your fobs issue.

6

Attempt to fix your key fob if the mechanic at Mercedes tells you to try any self-diagnostics on the fob. Sometimes the mechanic recognizes the problem without ever seeing the fob, based on your description of the problem and will walk you through the repair process. If he or she cannot, youll need to take your key to Mercedes for repair.

7

Take your key to Mercedes if self-diagnostics you tried on your own and/or that the mechanic advised you to try do not work. From this point the process is up to Mercedes, such as how long you need to wait, whether or not your fob is fixable or youll need to order a new one and how much the repair/replacement will cost you.

The Power Stroke is Fords top tier diesel truck engine that can generate as much as 800 foot-pounds of torque, thanks to a turbocharger. This device is a turbine that is powered by the exhaust gases to push more air into the combustion chambers. By increasing the amount of air in the engine, the combustion process is made more powerful and efficient. However a turbocharger may eventually need to be replaced, since it is subjected to high pressure that can damage parts like turbine blades.

Instructions

1

Turn of the engine and engage the parking brake. Open the hood and place a step stool next to the engine compartment to make it easier to reach the components. Put drop cloths over the fenders to protect the finish. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery to prevent a short circuit.

2

Remove the clips holding the cover of the air filter housing and remove it. Unbolt the bottom of the air filter housing with a wrench and pull the plastic shield out. Unscrew the air intake line O-ring clamp from the front of the turbocharger. Pull the air line off and place it to the side. Unplug the ECU wire from the side of the turbocharger and place it out of the way.

3

Unbolt the turbocharger from the down pipe that leads to the front of the V-8. Then unbolt the turbocharger from the exhaust manifold on the top of the diesel engine. Pull the turbo out caully because it is heavier than it looks. Place the new turbocharger on the exhaust manifold and thread the bolts in by hand. Then thread the bolts in on the down pipe by hand. Once all the bolts are in then wrench the bolts down flush. Plug the ECU wire in on the side of the turbocharger.

4

Place the intake pipe on the front of the new turbocharger and screw the O-ring clamp down tight. Replace the air intake housing and reattach its bolts. Replace the air filter and snap on the top of the air housing. Reconnect the battery cable, remove the drop cloths and close the hood.

Muscle car and classic car enthusiasts spend enormous amounts of time and resources to faithfully restore their rides to their original state. The Impala was initially launched in 1958 as both coupe and convertible versions. These were followed by several body styles in 1959 as this famed Chevrolet marquee gained in popularity during this time. The cowl tag on the drivers side of the firewall in the engine compartment has all the relevant information about the car, including the interior trim, body color, VIN and the body style.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and search for the cowl tag on the firewall near the drivers side. The cowl tag will be riveted in place on the firewall.

2

Read the cowl tag and write down the numbers on the tag. The left side of the tag will indicate TRIM or BODY COLOR, followed by a corresponding number code. Write down all of the items.

3

Log onto 348-409.com to get specific information about your Impalas cowl tag. The body color codes on a 1959 Impala will be represented by a three-digit number. The numbers correspond to a specific body color used in the manufacturing process. A 900 code means that the car was originally finished in Tuxedo Black, and 903 indicates Aspen Green. The trim codes are also represented by a three-digit number specifies the interior colors. An 801 code means that the car was originally finished in a gray-colored cloth and vinyl interior while an 867 indicates a copper and brown cloth and vinyl interior. There are approximately 37 codes for the trim.

Air suspension systems have been installed in vehicles since the late 1950s. Air suspension has several different functions. It keeps the vehicle as level as possible on varying terrains and raises or lowers the vehicle on off-road and luxury vehicles. On high-performance models, the air suspension will adjust the stiffness of the suspension to increase the handling ability of the vehicle.

Disabling

Some vehicles that are equipped with air suspension, primarily Lincolns and Fords, must have the system disabled prior to lifting the rear of the vehicle. The system is disabled by flipping a switch. This switch is typically located in the trunk of the vehicle; er to your owners manual. Failure to disable the system can result in the air suspension failing and the rear of the vehicle will sit very low until it is repaired; this repair is quite expensive as well.

Replacement

On some air-suspension equipped vehicles, the air ride system can be replaced for a standard suspension. This is typically performed when the suspension system fails and requires a complete overhaul. The replacement system will have two standard shocks and a spring to replace the air bags.

Aging

As air suspensions age, the air bag can become dry and start to crack. These cracks can lead to leaks and even breakage. A routine inspection of the air suspension system should be performed at every major service interval to catch problems before they occur.

Mechanics

The air suspension system is a relatively simple system mechanically. It consists of only three main components: compressor, air bags and struts. The compressor runs off of electricity and it is what provides the supply of air. The air bags are simply rubber sacks that fill with air to raise the vehicle and drain to lower the vehicle. The struts are there to simply absorb the hard impacts and protect the bags from sudden compression from a hard bump. While the mechanics are simple, the electronics of the newer systems are extremely complex.

History

The air bag was first put on a production car by Cowey Motor Works of Great Britain in 1909. The idea did not catch on at the time because the system leaked. Firestone created the first properly functioning air suspension system for an experimental line of vehicles known as the Stout-Scarab in 1933. Air suspension became available on nearly every American-produced vehicle in 1958.

Overhead camshaft engines use a timing belt to maintain a specific synchronization between the crank shaft and the camshaft. The belt turns the camshaft in harmony with the crankshaft to open and close the intake and exhaust valves at just the right time. Most vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing the timing belt as part of the normal maintenance schedule; however, the interval of this maintenance varies between vehicle manufacturers and ranges anywhere from every 65,000 to 100,000 miles .

Valve Timing

The camshaft has a number of lobes that push down on the exhaust or intake valve to let air into or exhaust out of the combustion chamber at just the right time. If the belt has slipped a tooth or broken, the engine will most likely stall as the intake or exhaust valves will no longer open and close at the proper times to let air in or out of the system.

Non-Interference Engines

If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft will cease to move and the valves will be stuck in whatever position they were in when the belt broke. Non-interference engines are designed so that the piston will not be able to contact the valve if the valve remains open when the piston is elevated to its highest position in its bore, so that no major internal damage can result.

Interference Engine

If your vehicle has an interference-style engine, then the camshaft timing is vital. In an interference engine, the intake or exhaust valves extend into the cylinder bore enough so that the piston will slam into the valve if the valve remains open too long. If the timing belt slips or breaks on an interference engine, the cost of repairs can be high, as the repair can involve having to replace the piston or valve.

Preventive Maintenance

To protect yourself from being stranded if the timing belt happens to break or jump a tooth, have the timing belt inspected regularly or become familiar with your vehicles timing belt inspection procedure and do it yourself on a regualr basis. If the engine in your vehicle has an interference engine, it is advisable to have the timing belt checked often and replaced on schedule to prevent the possibility of serious engine damage.

Exhaust manifold leaks are obvious, especially when first starting the engine. As the engine warms, the metal of the manifold and engine block expand and quiet the leak. Manifold leaks can vary in sound from a loud exhaust leak to a subtle ticking sound -- often misdiagnosed as a faulty lifter in the valves. In some cases, testing the manifold can require lifting the vehicle. Manifold to block connections can be tested from the engine compartment or under the vehicle. The use of a stethoscope will undeniably pinpoint a leak and its location.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and apply the parking brake. Open the hood (even if the vehicle is being lifted to test the manifold, the open hood will offer more lighting to see better underneath the vehicle). If there is no need to lift the vehicle to test the manifold to block connection, proceed to Step 4.

2

Place a wheel chock against the outer tread of one of the rear tires for extra protection (if lifting the vehicle).

3

Hoist the front of the vehicle up with a jack and place it onto jack stands (one side at a time).

4

Put on the safety glasses and gloves and then start the engine.

5

Put the stethoscope on (and crawl under the hoisted vehicle, if applicable) and run the tip of the stethoscope along the manifold to engine block connection. Be aware of moving engine parts and loose fitting clothes; especially if testing from the engine compartment area. Also be aware that it will not take long for the front exhaust system to get extremely hot. Be sure arms and hands are well covered and protected.

6

Check the manifold to engine block connection thoroughly. The moment the tip of the stethoscope gets near a leak, the sound will intensify greatly. Check for leaks in other locations along the manifold to block connection and even check the front exhaust pipe to manifold connection.

Ford introduced the Taurus in 1985. During its production run, the number of Taurus vehicles sold totaled over seven million. Ford ceased production of the Taurus in 1996. Though frustrating for drivers, an overheating Taurus does not have to signal disaster. A few maintenance interventions and some troubleshooting can keep the Taurus on the road and running normally.

Causes

Several factors can cause or contribute to a Taurus overheating. A temperature gauge climbing into the red zone is a sign of overheating. A Taurus can overheat due to leaking hoses, coolant leaks to cylinders or oil, improper coolant levels, heat transfer problems or cooling system circulation issues. A failing water pump does not circulate water and coolant through the cooling system, interfering with proper temperature maintenance and cooling.

Prevention/Solution

Observation is crucial and helps immensely in troubleshooting overheating causes. Look for signs of leakage that could be contributing to overheating in the Taurus. Yellow buildup near the oil cap can indicate a coolant leak going to the oil compartment. White smoky exhaust fumes indicates coolant is likely leaking to the engine cylinders. Locating and resolving leaks can fix overheating woes and prevent costlier repairs later. Make sure the radiator cap is securely capped so that the cooling system pressure is maintained. Replace components such as failing water pumps, thermostats or electrical fans. Maintain proper coolant levels, using a hydrometer to measure antifreeze concentration. The suggested mixture is a 50/50 ratio of water to ethylene glycol.

Warning

Never open a hot radiator or attempt to work on a hot heating system. Allow the Taurus to cool before inspection. The cooling system is pressurized and can release dangerous pressure and scalding-hot fluids. Utilize care in coolant disposal and clean spills promptly, as pets could drink antifreeze left unattended.