Repair And Fix it

The purpose of the exhaust pipe is to provide an exit route for engine fumes. In order for a car exhaust pipe to work correctly, it must fit onto the exhaust system securely. The task of measuring an exhaust pipe can be challenging due to its location and shape. Another aspect of an exhaust pipe that should be measured is the decibel level of the noise that starts in the muffler and travels through the exhaust pipe. Measuring the length of an exhaust pipe as well as the decibel level are important components of responsible car ownership and upkeep.

Instructions

1

Use the car jack to elevate the back end of the car and gain easier access to the exhaust pipe. Open the caliper and place it around a straight outside portion of the pipe. Make sure that the caliper is securely positioned around the exhaust pipe before recording the measurement.

2

Position one of the caliper clamp arms inside while leaving the other outside of the exhaust pipe. Close the caliper in order to measure the thickness of the pipe. Record the measurement of the pipes thickness.

3

Use the two measurements in order to calculate the inside diameter of the exhaust pipe. The Global Security website instructs to multiply the thickness of the exhaust pipe by two and then subtract the number from the outside diameter of the pipe. Once the dimension of the pipe is known, an individual can ensure that the current pipe or a replacement pipe will fit the exhaust system correctly.

4

Visit the local police department and ask for information about the decibel limit for exhaust pipes and the noise reduction policy. A decibel meter with a built in microphone can be used to test the exhaust pipes decibel level in order to determine if the car is operating legally. The Radio Shack website has an example of a decibel meter that accurately reads a cars exhaust pipe decibel level.

5

Apply ear protection before testing the decibel level. Park the car on a flat surface that is at least 25 feet away from any buildings or enclosed areas in order to avoid the noise echoing. According to the Sengpiel Audio website, the decibel meter microphone should be held level with the middle of the exhaust pipe opening.

6

Set the decibel level on the meter to the human ear frequency. Have someone turn on the car and rev the engine to 50 or 75 percent of the safe RPM limit. Read the meter to determine if the cars decibel level falls within the legal limits.

The Porsche 944 was a joint effort between Porsche, Volkswagen and Audi in the 1980s to design a front engine sports coupe. It was a great handling car, however Porsche felt that the VW influences were diluting its brand and manufacture stopped in 1991. One of the key components to the Porsche 944s handling were its sway bars. Sway bars connect opposing wheel assemblies to make the chassis more rigid. This helps the coupe hold corners better and prevents the body from rolling about from inertia.

Instructions

1

Jack the Porsche 944 up on all corners. Slide the car jack in under the car frame, jack that corner up and then slide in a jack stand to hold the corner up. Repeat this process on all the corners. Remove the lug nuts from each wheel with your tire iron and then slide the wheel off by hand.

2

Slide the two sway bar bushings onto the sway bar. The bushings have a slit on one side where you can hammer the rubber ring on the bar with a rubber mallet. It does not matter where on the sway as the bushing can slide back and forth. Place the metal supports over the bushings and then slide the support and bushing to match up with the bolts holes on the 944s frame. Thread each bolt in first, then wrench them down tight.

3

Bolt in the top of the sway bar linkage on the right side first. The sway bar linkage top bolts on to the side of the hub assembly in the right wheel well. Then bolt the bottom of the sway bar linkage to the right end of the sway bar. Move the sway bar to the left or right to align it with the linkage. The bolt in the left sway bar linkage onto the hub assembly and then onto the left end of the sway bar.

4

Lower the Porsche 944 from the jack stands and take it for a test drive. You will not notice any difference in straightaways but you will in the corners.

Exhaust Burble on Acceleration

Some cars exhaust systems will produce an odd burble or bubbling noise. For the most part this is deliberate when it occurs in vehicles upon acceleration, but not always. Many "street racers" and similar cars have undergone a few modifications to give them better fuel efficiency at higher RPMs. In order for this to occur, the lifters and timing mechanism for the sequence of combustion in the engines cylinders is altered. This means that, while the engine timing will work well at much higher RPM, the combustion process at lower speeds is slightly off. The burble is in actual fact a series of lean misfirings caused by this timing which rumble out through the exhaust system. It causes no serious damage to the engine, and soon disappears once the vehicle has reached high speeds.

Exhaust Burble on Deceleration

An exhaust burble, or throaty popping noise which could be likened to a babbling brook, is has a different cause if it only occurs when suddenly backing off on a vehicles throttle. Essentially, the sudden easing off the throttle causes an immediate decrease in exhaust emissions to the degree that atmospheric pressure surrounding the exhaust pipe pushes cool air up into the exhaust system. This air collides with the warm exhaust gasses and creates a rumbling not unlike thunder. Normally this will only happen if the tailpipe has too wide a diameter to maintain equalized air pressure, or there is a seam in the exhaust pipes which is not air tight.

Repairs

Some people like having the throaty noise of an exhaust burble; some do not. For those who do not want this sound, there are ways of fixing it. For an exhaust burble on acceleration, the engine must undergo a professional tune-up including resetting the timing mechanism and lifters; keep in mind this will decrease high speed engine performance, but increase the quality of performance at low speeds. For exhaust burbles upon deceleration, the seams of the exhaust pipe must be sealed against unwanted air entry, or the pipe must be swapped out for one of a smaller diameter to maintain equalized pressure between exhaust and the surrounding atmosphere.

Replacing the blower motor resistor pack may be necessary if the blower motor in your Pacifica is not working correctly. Most often, the blower will run on high and turn off but not function on any of the settings in between when the resistor is bad. A replacement resistor pack is available from most auto parts stores and is located on the face of the blower motor, where it meets the HVAC duct under the dash.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Pacifica and locate the negative battery terminal at the battery. Loosen the pinch bolt on the cable end with a wrench then remove the cable from the terminal, isolating the cable while you work.

2

Open the passengers door and locate the blower motor under the dash on the passengers side. The motor sits directly behind the glove compartment.

3

Find the resistor pack on the face of the blower motor then remove the wiring harness connector by releasing the locking tab on the connector and pulling the connector straight off the resistor pack.

4

Locate the two retaining bolts on the ends of the resistor pack and remove them with a socket and ratchet. Slide the resistor out of the HVAC duct then lower it from behind the dash.

5

Position the new resistor pack in the HVAC duct then install the two retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the bolts or you will damage the plastic housing.

6

Push the wiring harness connection onto the new resistor pack, making sure it is secure. Take your time to be sure it goes on straight or the pins can bend on the resistor pack, causing it to function incorrectly.

7

Move to the battery and install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal then tighten the pinch bolt with a wrench. Test the repair by running the blower through the speeds and verify it is working properly.

Professional locksmiths and car technicians use car entry tools to access locked cards. Generally, these tools allow technicians to enter vehicles whose owners have lost their keys or locked them inside the car. To obtain many of these tools, you may have to provide some documentation that you are a locksmith, technician or law enforcement professional. All of these tools are designed to open the vehicle without causing damage to it.

Slim Jim Kit

The Economy Slim Jim Kit is a six-piece tool kit that features four different types of slim jims: round, Super, 30-inch and slidel. A slim jim, also known as a lockout tool, fits between a car door window and the weather stripping. You move it back and forth until the device finds the lock rod and catches onto it. You then use this device to flip the lock over, unlocking the door. This tool also comes with a case, which allows you to keep all of your tools in one spot. As of 2010, this tool costs between $49.95 and $59.95. This tool only ships outside the United States to law enforcement officials and licensed locksmiths.

Air Fighter

The Air Fighter Professional tool kit features an inflatable bag, which you slide between the car door and the door frame. This tool allows you to create a wedge between the car door and frame, which gives you enough space to slip your unlocking tool into the space. The kit includes three additional tools, including one that comes in two parts. When you put the two pieces together, you can use this tool to extract a key stuck in the car ignition. Another tool has a four-pronged end, which allows you to manipulate the locking catch. The other tool grabs onto lock catches and door handles. As of 2010, this tool costs between $55 and $65.

Auto Lockout Kit

The Master Auto Lockout Kit costs $139.95 as of 2010, and it comes with 13 pieces. This tool is specifically for car technicians, and you can use it for general-purpose car entry. The kit features latch grabbing tools, reach tools, opening rods, back flip tool and slim jims. These adjustable tools feature rounded ends. The kit also comes with its own carrying case, adding to its portability.

The Suburban is a large sport utility vehicle. Chevy began building this popular model in 1935. Suburbans built since 2000 are similar to Chevrolets pickup trucks, except they have a station wagon body. The engine most commonly used in the 2003 Suburban is a 5.3-liter, eight-cylinder engine with sequential fuel injection. This engine requires a fuel pressure regulator to keep the pressure in the fuel lines within the correct range.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure that you dont start the engine inadvertently. Loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Wrap a shop rag around the fuel pressure fitting on the fuel rail. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fitting and place the bleed hose for the pressure gauge into a container approved for storing gasoline. Open the pressure gauge valve and allow the fuel to drain into the container. Detach the fuel pressure gauge from the fuel pressure fitting.

3

Disconnect the bolts on the upper manifold assembly with a socket wrench. Remove the upper manifold from the engine block. Detach the vacuum tube from the fuel pressure regulator.

4

Release the snap ring retainer around fuel pressure regulator and remove the fuel pressure regulator assembly from the retainer. Discard the O-rings and fuel filter.

5

Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil and mount them onto the fuel pressure regulator. Install the fuel pressure regulator into its retainer and engage the snap ring around the fuel pressure regulator.

6

Connect the vacuum tube to the fuel pressure regulator. Attach the upper manifold assembly with the mounting bolts by using a socket wrench. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Replacing an exhaust system with a body mount exhaust system is something that anyone with the right tools and a little know-how can accomplish. Many people take on this task to save money in labor costs, but if you dont have the right tools and knowledge you could end up doing more harm than good. Installing a body mount exhaust system is different from installing a typical exhaust system in the end, but they all start the same.

Remove the Existing System First

To be able to install a new exhaust system, the old one must first be properly removed. Tools ranging from a common wrench to a powered angle or disc grinder will be needed, as rust and corrosion of the metal parts and bolts that hold the old system in place may prevent removal with wrenches alone. Its typically much quicker, in cases where the old exhaust will be thrown out as scrap metal, to use a grinder wheel and cut the entire exhaust system into sections and remove them piece by piece, cutting the heads off of the connecting bolts if they wont turn out. Removing the old rubber bushings that stabilize the exhaust system is a priority as well, as newer exhaust systems, especially upgraded stainless steel systems, weigh more than mild steel stock exhausts.

Dry Fit the Body Mount Exhaust System

Once everything has been removed from the exhaust manifold back, the new system may be installed. To ensure that all the sections and pieces are the correct length and fit, a dry fitting, or "mock fit," should be performed before any sections are permanently attached or sealed. To do this, all sections and seams are put together without any seam sealant or bolts, and the entire exhaust system is put in place to make sure the end of the exhaust protrudes from the desired location on the vehicle. If it does, installation can continue. If there are any undesired angles or bends in the sections or layout of the system, they should be corrected before final installation.

Final Steps

When the body mount exhaust is ready to be installed, make sure that each joint or union between two sections is sealed properly and secured with the correct hardware. Newer bushings that are rated for the weight of the new system should be installed, and there should be the proper amount of the recommended sealant for the type of metal the exhaust is made of. Once the system is fully in place, the final tightening of all the support bolts and union ties can be done. But be sure that no twisting occurs in the piping system as its tightened.